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Turkey opts for higher-value goods and production relocation
Issue date:26/08/2009
Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel
Michelle Phong
Turkey's textile and clothing exports grew robustly in recent years, partly fueled by the abundant domestic supply of cotton.
Turkey's textile and clothing exports grew robustly in recent years, partly fueled by the abundant domestic supply of cotton.
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The textile industry, combining cotton and synthetic yarns, fibers and fabrics, home textiles, ready-wear and apparel, is the largest economic sector of Turkey, employing about 2.5 million people and providing indirect jobs of more than six million. The industry contributes to one-tenth of the country's gross national product (GNP), according to the Turkish-American Business Council (TAIK).

The TAIK reported that the value of textile and clothing manufacturing reaches approximately US$30 billion. Turkey exported textile and clothing worth US$23 billion in 2008.

Turkey's textile and clothing exports grew robustly in recent years, partly fueled by the abundant domestic supply of cotton. Primary textile and apparel production areas in Turkey include Istanbul, Izmir, Bursa, Denizli, Gaziantep and Kayseri.

Direct exports of textile and clothing goods rose to about US$492 million in 2007 from US$278 million in 2005. Total value of exports were US$480 million in 2008. There was also a large quantity of textile and clothing goods being exported indirectly as clothing and made-up textiles.

Turkish textile and clothing exports in 2008 included embroideries, narrow fabrics, interlining, trimmings and garment, while key destinations were Russia, Poland, Germany, Iran, Romania, Bulgaria, the UK, Italy and the US.


Key buyers of Turkish apparel exports (in US$), January-October 2008 (Source: Turkish Statistical Institute and Cotton Inc)
The Turkish textile and clothing industry until recent times was characterized by small, often family-run operations. Currently, the country has around 2,000 textile manufacturers, which are large-scale, heavily mechanized operations, employing more than 150 people each and having more than US$15 million in annual sales each, stated in a recent TAIK report issued in May 2009.

It was reported that Turkey is the world's sixth biggest ready wear and apparel manufacturer and the European Union's second largest supplier after China. Its textile industry is the world's tenth biggest.

With reference to figures from the Turkish Clothing Manufacturers' Association and the Center for the Promotion of Exports (IGEM), Turkey shares about 4.3% of the global clothing export trade, 6.4% of the apparel exports to the European Union, and 1.7% of the apparel exports to the US.

Partly due to its free trade agreements with the European Free Trade Association (EFTA), Turkey is one of the largest apparel exporters to the EU. Turkey is also a member of the World Trade Organization (WTO) and has a friendly trade relationship with the US.

Challenges at the corner

Turkey's position as a dominant exporter to Europe was challenged following the opening of both the EU and Turkish markets to Chinese exports in recent years. Tough competition has placed negative effects on Turkey's textile and apparel industries.

Although the textile industry is still Turkey's largest industrial sector, accounting for a third of industrial employment, the automotive and electronics industries are growing in importance.

Data of the Turkish Statistical Institute showed that Turkey remains a net apparel exporter, with an estimate of US$13.4 billion in exports and US$1.3 billion in imports in 2008. Nonetheless, imports from China and other countries are rising rapidly. From 2007 to 2008, exports edged up slightly by 6.1%, while imports surged 53.9%. Turkey's apparel production was down 16.9% from 2007 to 2008.

In face of the immense competition, some 50 Turkish ready-wear manufacturers have invested in factories in low labor cost countries, e.g. Tunisia, Bulgaria, Egypt, Uzbekistan, Jordan, Moldova, China, Russia, Pakistan, Sudan, the Czech Republic and the Gaza Strip, the TAIK observed.

Moreover, about 100 Turkish firms -- mainly engaging in ready-wear business – had plans to invest a total of US$4 billion in a special industrial zone in Egypt, where labor and energy costs were relatively lower. India and other Asian countries were also options for production relocation.

Heading to more complex technology

In addition, more Turkish manufacturers have entered the segment of technical textiles in view of improved economic development in the country and the availability of textile technology, based on a May 2009 report of the Export Promotion Center of Turkey (IGEME).

The IGEME estimated that Turkey has production capacity of more than 110,000 metric tons per year for nonwovens, across Istanbul, Bursa, Gaziantep, Kocaeli, Tekirdag and other cities.

There are some 150 technical textile and nonwoven manufacturers in the country. Larger corporations are often members of the EDANDA, an international disposables and nonwovens association in Europe, including Akinal Sentetik Tekstil, Hassan Group and Moğul Tekstil San Tic.

Prominent end-user sectors for Turkish technical textile and nonwoven producers are automotive, packaging, hygiene, medical supplies, construction, clothing, military, agriculture and filtration.

The country is also an important producer of tire cord fabrics, industrial yarns (e.g. of nylon) and flexible intermediate bulk container (FIBC).

In 2008, the total value of technical textile and nonwoven exports was estimated to exceed US$1.2 billion, in accordance to the data from the IGEME. Top export products in 2008 were FIBC, tire cord fabrics, technical fabrics, nonwovens, glass fibers and articles, safety seat belts and safety airbags. The EU (Germany, France, the UK, Italy and Spain), Russia, the US and Romania are prime markets for Turkish technical textile and nonwoven sectors.

Despite the adverse impact brought by the global financial crisis, Turkish industry players were making efforts to survive and advance themselves, often with newly developed textile machinery.

A report on this year's ITM:
Slight pick-up of textile business activities noted at ITM 2009
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