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| Mohair from South Africa |
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At the upcoming SpinExpo New York from July 19-21, a number of fiber producers will present their fiber developments, including mohair products from Filivivi based in Italy.
Mohair, a rare and precious fibre, is a product from the Angora goat that originated in the mountains of Tibet. In the 16th century, these goats migrated to the Anatolian Plains of Turkey near the city of Ankara, from which the name "Angora" derives.
The term "mohair" comes from "mukhayyar", Turkish for fine fleece. Angora goats were highly regarded and banned from export until the sixteenth century when they were introduced into Spain and France.
Around 1820, raw mohair fleece was first exported from Turkey to England, which later became the leading manufacturer of mohair products. Yorkshire mills spun yarn that was exported to Russia, Germany and Austria or woven directly in Yorkshire. Due to the great demand for mohair fibre, there was much crossbreeding between Angora and common goats throughout the 19th century. The Angora goat was introduced into South Africa where it was crossed with the native goat in 1839. It was then introduced into the United States in 1849, Australia between 1856-1875, and, some time later, New Zealand.
The Angora goat requires a very special climate: dry, mild summers and snowy winters. Today, South Africa is the world's largest mohair producer. Most of the fibre is produced in the Eastern Cape. The United States is the second-largest producer, with a concentration in Texas, followed by Turkey.
Mohair is shorn from the Angora goat twice a year. It is scoured by gently raking it through a soap and water solution and then rinsed, whereupon it loses about 20% percent of its weight as its natural grease (lanolin) and soil are removed. Once scoured, the mohair is passed through squeeze rollers and dried.
The purified lanolin by-product is used in face creams, soaps, and ointments. Mohair can be stock dyed after scouring, yarn dyed after spinning or piece dyed after knitting or weaving. Mohair fabric can also be printed by screen or roller methods. Mohair is a protein fibre with a high affinity for dyes. It absorbs colours completely, producing vivid colours.
Soft, luxurious and tactile, the combination of mohair's rich lustre and shine provide a durable, long-lasting product for clothing and accessories, such as slippers, scarves and hats and even children's toys. Mohair fabrics tend to be moisture and wrinkle resistant and cannot be easily crushed or matted.
Mohair is a year-round fibre, for warm knits and weaves during cold winters, and airy, lightweight structures and clean suiting fabrics that breathe during the summer. Pure or blended, mohair produces rich tweeds, lofty fleeces and knits. Mohair, a naturally soft fibre, offers an environmentally-friendly alternative to real fur.
Mohair fabrics are extremely flame retardant, and offer high noise absorbency, making it ideal for use in public areas, carpeting and rugs, throws and blankets and home furnishings. Mohair has excellent insulating properties, keeping heat in during cold weather and serving as a barrier against the summer heat.
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