http://www.AdsaleATA.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/Listing.aspxCTA Textile - FocusFor almost half a decade since 1962, Myanmar was under military rule and its economy is one of the least developed in the world. Following the country's November 2010 general election held in accordance with Myanmar's new constitution, the military junta was dissolved and a civilian government led by new President Thein Sein took power in 2011. Since then, a series of political, economic and administrative reforms have been initiated in the country, including laws regarding anti-corruption, currency exchange, foreign investment and taxation."It is a beginning of a new era in Myanmar with the firm political commitment of the government for economic and social development. The government will try to improve the living conditions for all nationals by building more roads, railways and bridges; to upgrade the education and health standards; to lay economic foundations to improve the socio-economic status of national races," said Wai Lwin Than, Consul General of the Republic of the Union of Myanmar in Hong Kong and Macau SARs, at a Hong Kong Productivity Council (HKPC) seminar themed "Current Investment Environment in Myanmar".According to him, Myanmar's government is striving to develop proper market economy designed to reduce the economic gap between the rich and the poor, and development gap between urban and rural areas, and is also determined to improve the living conditions of farmers and workers by updating the laws safeguarding their rights.Speaking at the HKPC seminar on Myanmar's latest development are (from left) Arthur Leung, Director of Poscelin; Wai Lwin Than, Consul General of Myanmar in Hong Kong and Macau SARs; and Lewis Leung, President of PERM"The new government has opened doors for opportunities, made reforms and invited investments so that the country will enjoy better socio-economic status. The president has also given mandate on the overall strategy that they will exercise the market economy in which the government takes less control over the market," he stressed.Moreover, according to Mr Wai, for the enhancement of foreign direct investment in Myanmar, two more laws namely Special Economic Zone Law and Dawei Special Economic Zone Law have been enacted by which investors can enjoy special privileges and rights to boost their business through a promised investment environment. A textile maker's experienceFrom a manufacturer's point of view on investing in Myanmar, Arthur Leung, Director of Poscelin Co Ltd, a Hong Kong-headquartered outerwear garment manufacturer which has operated garment factories in the country for 14 years, says, "For the advantages of producing in Myanmar, I could summarize that it has abundance of human resources, hardworking, loyal and conscientious workers as well as a safe working environment. This is why we still decided to rebuild our production facility in the country, after the tornado damaged our plant in 2006."Now Poscelin has more than 2,000 workers in Myanmar, compared to some 1,000 before the tornado.Arthur Leung also finds that Myanmar is one of the top five safest countries in the world, but unstable electricity supply remains a problem. "Electricity supply is still not sufficient, and that's why it is necessary to have our own electricity generators. The country's unstable electricity voltage also accelerates depreciation of equipment and machinery, which have direct impact on our production efficiency," Arthur Leung explained.He added that the communication and network system in the country is also a problem, although it saw apparent improvement last year. "But I am confident that within one to two years, it can live up to our standard," said Arthur Leung.Good potential forecast for Myanmar's textile and garment industryAt the seminar, Lewis Leung, President of Prince Edward Road Management Co Ltd (PERM), a global consulting firm focusing on apparel industry, stressed at the seminar that the competitive advantages of Myanmar's textile and apparel industry lie in its long history, government backup, vertical integration from yarn to garment, ample supply of labors and skilled technicians, duty-free status to the ASEAN countries, South Korea and Japan, GSP status to Europe, and technical assistance from Japan. Compared with the textile and garment industries in Cambodia and Vietnam, which shared similar history and background as that in Myanmar, Lewis Leung believes that "the country has the potentials to increase in significance in the global textile and garment industry."He reported that Cambodia's textile and apparel exports reached US$4 billion in 2011, while Vietnam's textile and garment exports grew by 38% to US$15.6 billion in 2011. But according to Myanmar's local news media, in the fiscal year 2010-11 ended March 2011, Myanmar's garment exports amounted to only US$243 million, despite a 30% increase from over US$187 million in 2009-10.It is also reported that Japan accounted for 34% of Myanmar's garment export, making it Myanmar's largest garment export market, followed by Germany, Spain and South Korea.http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4337/Article.aspxThe financial crisis in Europe and the US is posing tremendous uncertainty to the global textile and apparel industry. For the textile and garment industry in China, different sectors have reported a not very optimistic business climate and apparent drops in orders. In comparison, China's nonwoven sector appears to be less affected.The China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA) told ATA that despite the economic uncertainty in Europe and the US, Chinese nonwoven products still see hefty demand, and because they are primarily used in necessity sectors such as medical, hygiene, environmental protection and construction, the industry hasn't been significantly affected by the global economic slowdown.Li Lingshen , President of the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA)Another reason for China's nonwoven industry's invulnerability in the midst of uncertainties is its high reliance on its domestic market, which is of a vast size. "With the Chinese economy that continues to develop at a fast pace, Chinese people's living standard and sense of health have greatly improved, and the country is largely investing in infrastructure, including traffic, environment and irrigation projects. Local and oversea enterprises who eye the vast Chinese domestic market have increased their investments to the market," said Li Lingshen, President of CNITA.He stressed that the financial crisis in Europe and the US has also provided an opportunity for Chinese nonwoven companies to have technical cooperation and corporate merger with other foreign companies, and thus, to some extent, it promotes the development of the Chinese nonwoven industry.China's nonwoven industry on rapid riseChina's nonwoven fabric production commenced in 1978. Today, a complete nonwoven industrial chain has been established in the country, covering raw materials, equipment, processing, products and trading.In terms of raw materials, the development of China's fiber industry has provided its nonwoven industry a wide variety of high quality raw materials, such as polypropylene, polyester fiber, viscose, glass fiber and PPS.According to CNITA, China can manufacture nearly all kinds of nonwoven machinery today, and among them, its production machinery and technology for spunbonding and spunlaceing are close to internationally advanced levels, with the single line production capacity of spunbonding production equipment improving from 1,000 tons per year to 5,000 tons per year, and with production costs falling by 20%.The categories of China-made nonwoven fabrics include spunbonding, melt blowing, hydroentanglement, needle-punching, hot rolling, chemical binding, airlaid pulp and so on, covering all product types. "It's noteworthy that the rapid development of spunbond needle-punching, spunbond spunlacing, PPS spunbonding and other new processes has expanded the area of application of nonwoven fabrics. Besides, Chinese Jofo Group is among the top 40 global nonwoven enterprises," noted Mr Li.According to the association, during 2006 to 2010, China's gross industrial output of nonwoven fabrics increased from 1.40 million tons to 2.80 million tons at a yearly growth rate of 24.1%. During January to September 2011, Chinese above-scale nonwoven manufacturing enterprises, or those with yearly sales of RMB20 million (about US$3 million) achieved1.33 million tons in gross industrial output, RMB47.4 billion (about US$7.51 billion) in sales revenue, and RMB 2.6 billion (about US$411.9 million) in gross profit, representing increases of 13%, 30% and 37% respectively year on year. The nonwoven industry's profitability rate stood at 5.5%. The top five Chinese provinces in production output are Zhejiang, Guangdong, Shandong, Jiangsu and Liaoning, and their combined production output accounted for 70% of the country's total.The chart shows China's nonwoven exports to different markets and their grow rate during January to September 2011Meanwhile, during January to September 2011, the total value of nonwoven industry's investment projects that are worth over RMB 5 million (about US$791,700) reached RMB10.8 billion, up by 19.5% year on year. Also noticeable is that sizeable international and local nonwoven companies have increased their investment in the medical, filtration and geotextile fields.Besides, China's nonwoven fabric exports hit US$1.10 billion during January to September 2011, registering a year-on-year increase of 37.4%. The top five export destinations of Chinese nonwovens were the US, Japan, South Korea, Vietnam and India, making up 36.9% of China's total nonwoven fabric exports. Asia and South America were high in growth rate.http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4333/Article.aspxThe US still stays the world's largest apparel consumption market. However, the uncertainty brought by the recession has made a good deal of American consumers significantly cut back their spending on clothing. Also interestingly notable is that they appear to be more price-sensitive - many US consumers also plan prior to shopping, and minimize the impulsive purchase. On average, US consumers spend approximately US$54 per month on clothing. Their average spending has significantly dropped, compared with US$77 in 2008, US$63 in 2009, and even US$60 in 2010, according to Cotton Incorporated's Lifestyle Monitor Survey. The three-year downward trend represents a decline of about 30%.Prior to the financial crisis, US consumers used to enjoy shopping for discount bargains at mass merchants like Target and Walmart, because consistently low prices meant consumers did not even feel like they were splurging on everything from apparel to gardening supplies. But since the recession, consumers in the US appear to be more discerning in how and where they spend their money.One broad trend nearly all mass retailers have seen is the tendency of lower and lower middle income consumers to give priority to essential items, and that means consumables, said Greg Jacobson, Managing Editor of Mass Market Retailer magazine. "As a result, sales of consumables are increasing while areas such as home and apparel are having a hard time keeping up. For those consumers, areas like soft home, apparel and seasonal have become discretionary purchases in many cases."The chart demonstrates US consumers' store preference for clothing shopping (Source: Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor Survey)On the contrary to the way US shoppers used to consume, they have now become committed to spending within their means and lowering their credit card debt. To do this, 56% are cutting back on spending when they shop, and 53% (62% of women) are staying out of stores where they are tempted to overspend, according to Candace Corlett, President of WSL Strategic Retail."At the top of the list of stores that are too tempting are the mass merchandisers. They go when they need to go, but avoid the browsing trips; which is why Walmart trips are down," she added.According to Cotton Incorporated's survey, over time, there have been significantly increasing number of consumers who plan their apparel purchases. In 2008, 65% of consumers planned their purchases. That figure has increased to 71% today. At the same time, impulse shopping has dropped from 35% in 2008 to 29% in 2011."As you move down the range of household income, those low-tier shoppers have faced increased pressure on their spending on food and fuel, and their ability to go out and shop," said Ted Vaughan, a partner at Texas-based BDO Seidman Retail and Consumer.He added that unemployment continued to have an effect on some of those shoppers lower down in the household income range, and that is affecting Target and Walmart more than some of the department stores.Mass merchants still prevail in USBut mass merchants are still the most popular type of store for most clothing purchases, according to the survey's data, though that percentage has declined from 28% in 2009 to 24% in 2011.Roseanne Morrison, Doneger Group's Fashion Director said that consumers at all levels are more carefully considering their expenses and prioritizing spending. "They are now buying with logic and precision about the end use of their purchases, and not overbuying.""Shoppers are thinking about the lifespan of their purchases, and are considering quality over quantity," she added.In addition, Ms Morrison highlighted: "There is also an increase in pricing due to cost of goods and production cost increases, so cheap is not really an option. Also, there has been a dip in the profits of the mass merchant specialty chains, so this trend is actually quantified."From 2009 to 2011, the percentage of consumers saying Wal-Mart is their favorite clothing store has declined, from 10% to 6%, according to the survey.Walmart has become proactive in wooing these customers back, said Mr Vaughn. "This downtrend started when the availability of credit started drying up. Walmart had done away with their layaway plan years ago, but they've re-instituted it this year to compensate. Looking at the holiday season, parents are still going to try to provide gifts for their children. With a layaway plan, customers can start shopping much earlier in the season."On the other hand, exclusivity has become another enticement for shoppers. "Limited availability drives the customer out in droves. When they know they won't have infinite access to things, it is a great motivation to buy. Now, many stores are reporting that they are doing more regular price business than they have in eons, because they are carefully editing what they buy; buying into exclusives; and creating excitement through special events and in- store happenings. Also, the consumer is responsive to color right now, as color is emotional and happy," said Ms Morrison.http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4326/Article.aspxThe development of India's textile industry is in full swing. Despite the worldwide lackluster economy, the Indian government has set a target of US$33 billion for textile exports in 2012, compared with US$28 billion for 2011. And in October, the Indian government approved the establishment of 21 new integrated textile parks at a cost of Rs2,100 crore (a crore equates to 10 million), or US$394.55 million, in order to build sophisticated infrastructure for its textile industry.In fact, the industry's ambition can be well manifested by Indian visitors' overwhelming participation in the recent International Exhibition of Textile Machinery (ITMA) in Barcelona in their quest for the most advanced textile machinery and technology.Key statistics of visitorship of ITMA 2011 (Source: MP International Pte Ltd)According to the latest visitorship statistics of ITMA 2011, India was the third largest country of origin of visitors to the fair, with nearly 9,000 visitors flying from the country to the quadrennial exhibition, accounting for 8.5% of the total.An emerging textile manufacturing base"India is emerging as the preferred base for textile manufacturing and Indian buyers were able to evaluate various machines for procurement during ITMA 2011," said Rita Menon, Textiles Secretary, Government of India, who led a high-level delegation that included the Joint Secretary (Textiles) and the Textile Commissioner.She added, "As a policy planner and in order to usher in India's next leap into finer processing, finishing and a strong textile hub, it was particularly gratifying to be shown the finest technology in the world and a range of options at ITMA 2011."ITMA 2011 organizer MP International told ATA that India is an important market for the exhibition. "With India emerging as the preferred base for textile manufacturing, the Ministry of Textiles has projected the country's potential to increase textile and apparel share in world trade from current level of 4.5% to 8% and reach US$80 billion by 2020," said Sylvia Phua, CEO of MP International and Project Director of ITMA 2011.Wolfgang MüllerTo gain more insights into why Indian buyers and manufacturers were so participative in the fair in Barcelona, ATA spoke to some of the leading textile machinery makers. From their perspective, India is a significantly growing market for them."Indian textile and apparel manufacturers have always been open to European technology. For this reason, ITMA Europe is still the number one textile machinery show for them despite the existence of ITMA Asia. The latest technological developments could only be seen at the ITMA Europe instead of the ITMA Asia or any other shows," said Wolfgang Müller, Head of Sales of Mayer & Cie GmbH & Co KG, one of the leading makers of circular knitting machinery.One of the leading flat knitting machinery makers, Japan-based Shima Seiki noted that the Indian market is growing rapidly and Indian textile manufacturers are very serious about converting its production base to automation and computerization."Part of the development comes from overflow from the 'China+1 policy' implemented by the Japanese government, and some from production that has shied away from China because of its rising wages and lack of labor. Another reason for India's increased production is its domestic market, as India has an enormous population, and the Indians now have a much keener sense of fashion. Finally, of course there is the resource factor, that there is an abundant cotton industry so naturally processing and production bases would be attracted to its geographic proximity," explained Masaki S. Karasuno, Creative Director of Corporate Planning Division of Shima Seiki Mfg Ltd.According to one of the leading suppliers of textile machinery parts Groz-Beckert, India is its second biggest textile market, and many Indian textile companies are expanding and modernizing their productions."Indian customers always show a big interest in new technologies even if they do not invest immediately. For India, ITMA Europe is the most important platform for innovations in the textile technology. This is the feedback we received in Barcelona. They consider European machine builders (Germany, Italy and Switzerland) as a driving force in the textile chain," stated Roland Simmendinger, Senior Area Manager of Sales and Technical Appcliation in Knitting Machine Parts Division of Groz-Beckert.Technical textile sector on the jump"India as a manufacturing base is attractive due to the reason that you find well skilled employees and good investment atmosphere. Andritz will take into account the fast growing Indian market. We are planning to enlarge our activities with additional local sales and service teams for the time being," noted Tobias Schäfer, Sales Director of Andritz Küsters GmbH, one of the leading nonwoven machinery suppliers.India is always interested in high technical and technological manufacturing standards for the textile industry, he stressed. "A clear change in comparison with the last ITMA is that Indian visitors have a high interest in technical textile and nonwovens. This sector of textile market is on the jump for a big growth in India. The development in this sector is strongly driven by the local consumption for commodity as well as for hygiene market. We expect this field to be very prosperous in the upcoming years."Andreas Wilde"Flat knitting market really growing""In India, flat knitting market wasn't as big as circular knitting market, spinning market and weaving market until now. The flat knitting market is really growing in India within this year, and we are expecting a good performance in the near future. This has resulted from India's growing domestic market and its expanding exports especially to Europe," noted Andreas Wilde, Sales Director of H Stoll GmbH & Co KG, a German flat knitting machinery maker.Mr Müller told ATA that at ITMA 2011, there were a large number of Indian visitors from the spinning industry looking for sustainable business growth, despite the current downturn majorly caused by the volatility of cotton prices and government policies. "Besides, technical textiles and home textiles are two upcoming sectors in India, while India's production capacity of synthetic yarn / fiber is expected to grow by about 10%."http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4315/Article.aspxThe textile and apparel industry of Eastern Europe has been burgeoning for the past decade. While countries such as Bulgaria and Croatia are competing in the manufacturing realm, thanks largely to their proximity to the Western European markets, Russia has seen a fast growing retail market.Bulgaria as "Europe's quick response solution"Bulgaria is among the Eastern European countries noted for its textile and apparel manufacturing. The country was described as "Europe's quick response solution" by the Bulgarian Association of Apparel and Textile Producers and Exporters at the Texprocess Forum held during this year's Texprocess in Frankfurt, Germany.The association highlighted various advantages for production in the country, including its consistent reliability and fast deliveries, its flexibility to produce in small scales, its most advanced technological equipment in East Europe, its proximity to markets and material suppliers, its experience with the Western Europe markets, its highly skilled labor force and competitive labor costs.According to the association, Bulgarian firms are rapidly developing the internal capabilities to manage all aspects of their supply chains to European partners, including sourcing, design, transport/logistics and own branding.It added that combined with Bulgaria's strategically favorable location, these capabilities make working with the country a valuable component to companies' strategy. Croatia striving for added values Another manufacturing country in Eastern Europe is Croatia, which produces a diversity of products for exports. According to the Association of the Textile and Clothing Industry of the Croatian Chamber of Economy, the main products Croatia produces are readymade garments, home textiles, hosiery for men and women, accessories and technical textiles. Dr Mirjana Gambiroža Jukić, Business Secretary of the association, told ATA that it is its high quality of work, its design of finished textile products and readymade garments to a considerable extent, its attention to delivery deadlines, its readiness to rapidly respond to fashion trends as well as its openness to international co-operation that sets the Croatian textile and apparel industry aside from other manufacturing countries.At the moment, the country's textile and apparel industry is working on reducing manufacturing costs, developing and creating their own collections as well as promoting their own brands."The Croatian textile and clothing industry insists on constant technological advancements. The industry is both highly specialized and competitive as we manufacture goods with a higher added value," said Dr Jukić.In discussing the development of the Croatian textile and apparel industry, she stressed that the leading direction will be on modifying production structure based on adding values, improving business operations constantly, applying innovations and knowledge, and implementing industrial clustering strategy.Russia's clothing and footwear market likely to exceed US$75 billion in 2013Russia has a fast-growing retail market. The country's clothing and footwear market is worth US$56 billion in 2010, according to estimates by the PMR research firm, and in the next few years, it is expected to further increase by 10% on average.Russia remains one of the most attractive retail markets worldwide. In 2010, retail sales in Russia increased by nearly 13%, reaching around US$540 billion. Moreover, this year, the pace of growth is not declining. The clothing and footwear market is the second-largest retail sector in the country after food retail, and after a stagnant 2009, the pace of growth significantly accelerated last year, as revealed in PMR's latest report.Russia's CFA retail market value (in RUB billion) and growth (%) from 2005-2013 (Source: PMR)According to PMR estimates, the Russian Clothing, Footwear and Accessories (CFA) market in 2010 amounted to RUB1,704 billion (about US$56 billion), demonstrating an increase of nearly 11% compared with the previous year.All the segments noticeably recovered after the decline (or slowdown) due to the financial crisis. Clothing accounted for two-thirds of the total CFA market in 2010, whereas footwear and accessories constituted around 32% and 2%, respectively.PMR also forecasts that over the next three years, the size of the Russian CFA market will expand, although at a decreasing pace, to reach around RUB2.3 trillion (about US$75 billion) in 2013, and all main CFA segments are expected to grow. Clothing and footwear will be driven by children's wear, as well as the reviving middle-price segment, PMR analysts indicate.Some luxury CFA brands also tend to establish their own distribution channels, while terminating their contracts with distributors in Russia, in order to streamline and accelerate their territorial growth, says PMR. Among the brands that have recently decided to develop independent operations in Russia are Hermes Group and Prada.(Please refer to the forthcoming Dec 2011/Jan 2012 issue of ATA Journal for the full version of this article)http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4305/Article.aspxThe recent International Exhibition of Textile Machinery (ITMA) in Barcelona provided a platform to take a glimpse of the industry's technological advancement as well as trends of developments. At the "Review Seminar on ITMA 2011" hosted by the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) on November 15, four industry experts in different sectors shared their insights of the trends they observed at the fair.Flat knitting: responding to market changeIn discussing the flat knitting sector, Dr Jimmy Lam, Lecturer of Institute of Textiles and Clothing at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, introduced the latest developments of the sector's two market leaders, Shima Seiki and Stoll.Dr Jimmy Lam, Lecturer of Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University"Solutions for Diversity" is Shima Seiki's theme at ITMA 2011, and it represents its approach to build machines for different markets for their different requirements. Dr Lam explained that rapid market changes and fluctuations are the main reason behind the approach. "China has always been the company's biggest market. But it is undergoing significant changes due to high material costs and labor costs. And now Russia, India and Brazil are becoming the company's new markets and Shima Seiki is offering more compact machines tailored for their needs. These machines are also built with functions for smart production, which allow the user to perform planning, design and programming as well."He introduced that during ITMA 2011, the Japanese company presented a wide range of new products, and among them was its new SWG-FIRST154 S21 computerized ultrafine gauge flat knitting machine. It is the first flat knitting machine in 21 gauge. It is equipped with Slide Needles with loop pressers and transfer jacks for a wide variety of patterns with a wide range of gauge. It also features i-DSCS (Digital Stitch Control System with Intelligence) for high speed knitting of fine and delicate material in finest-gauge fabrics.The Japanese flat knitting machinery maker also presented its SCG122SN 3G which is capable of producing fabrics with texture in the 2G-4G range. Dr Lam explained that the new machine can handle thick and heavier yarns, fancy yarn with i-DSCS. With Slide Needle, spring type sinker and double racking mechanism, bold and interesting designs can be produced with the look and feel of hand-knit garments.On the other hand, German flat knitting machinery maker Stoll has made remarkable strides in raising the productivity, said Dr Lam. At ITMA 2011, the company showcased its CMS 502 HP which claims to increase productivity by up to 10%. "HP" means high performance, he explained, adding that the new machine's productivity can be improved by up to 10% with its Power RCR-system, shorter carriage stroke, faster carriage reverse time and higher carriage speed. Also, the company's multi-gauge machine CMS 530 HP MG uses a special 4L gauge needle hook from Groz Beckert, he stated.Dr Lam summed up that both Shima Seiki and Stoll have responded to market demand by introducing new compact machines for the Far East markets, and both of them have taken advantage of new computerized technology on 3-D simulation in particular on virtual sampling, whole garment simulation.Dominic Yuk, Manager-in-charge, Pro-Act Training and Development Centre (Fashion Textiles), Vocational Training CouncilCircular knitting and warp knitting: boosted productivityAt the seminar, Dominic Yuk, Manager-in-charge of Pro-Act Training and Development Centre (Fashion Textiles) at Vocational Training Council, Hong Kong, shared his observation in circular knitting and warp knitting at ITMA 2011.He noted that at the fair, circular knitting machinery makers such as Pai Lung, Mayer & Cie, Santoni, Terrot and Cixing, presented their new machines that feature higher speed and higher number of feeders - both boosters of productivity.Another determining factor of a circular knitting machine's productivity is its knitting needles. Mr Yuk introduced that Groz Beckert's new high quality knitting needles, namely litespeed, can improve the circular machine's productivity. By partially diminishing the thickness of the needle shank, a reduction of the needle weight and of the friction between needle and trick walls is achieved. The litespeed needles claim to be able to reduce machine temperature by up to 20% and save energy consumption by up to 20%. He also highlighted the trend of spin-knit machines, a kind of machine that combines a spinning machine and a knitting machine. "At the moment, only three companies are producing this type of machines. They include Mayer & Cie, Terrot and Pai Lung. However, they are reluctant to disclose any technical information of the machines, and the machines are not yet introduced to the market," said Mr Yuk.He said that the by combining spinning machine and knitting machine together, fewer spinning and twisting frames are needed, and the same volumes of knitted fabrics can be produced with less energy.On the other hand, companies such as Karl Mayer, Santoni, Comez, and Runyung presented their warp knitting machines. Mr Yuk introduced that equipped in some of Karl Mayer's machines is its Positive Patternbeam Device (PPD). It is a motor-driven delivery unit, which actively feeds yarn from the pattern beam to the knitting unit. It offers a gentle handling of yarns especially in the processing of fancy yarns at high speed automatically. It can also adjust let-off motion of different yarns' tensions.Mun-lim Cheung, President of Society of Dyers and ColouristsDyeing and finishing: energy saving and emission reduction"The overwhelming trend for the dyeing and finishing sector is energy saving and reducing emission," stressed Mun-lim Cheung, President of Society of Dyers and Colourists at the seminar. To help dyehouses achieve that, the latest dyeing and finishing machines require advanced technology to achieve more efficient circulation, re-circulation of heat energy with better control and recuperation of heat from exhaust.He observed at the ITMA fair in Barcelona that the key features of latest machinery include higher efficiency, longer running time, less maintenance, less down time, and more savings on chemicals and dyestuffs.According to Mr Cheung, there seems to be a trend for machinery makers and chemical suppliers to co-operate, for instance, BASF and Gaston Systems, Clariant and Gaston Systems in dyeing as well as Monforts and Pulcra Chemicals.He added that the dyeing and finishing sector will use more advanced and sophisticated instrumentation, and apply higher engineering principles into workable processes such as fluid dynamics and thermodynamics. "We need new ways of thinking and practical use of new technology to existing process. Most important of all, we need pay more attention to environmental concerns, that is to reduce, recycle and reuse," Mr Cheung concluded. Dr Hua Tao, Instructor of Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic UniversityWeaving: improved productivity and energy savingThe latest developments in weaving machines lie in their saving in energy, high productivity / performance, flexibility, consistent fabric quality and versatility in terms of applications, underscored Dr Hua Tao, Instructor of Institute of Textiles and Clothing at The Hong Kong Polytechnic University.At ITMA 2011 in Barcelona, the weaving sector's key suppliers, such as ITEMA Weaving, Picanol, Lindauer Dornier, Toyota, Tsudakoma, Smit, Staübli, Bonas, Grass, Van de Wiele and Jakobs Muller showcased a wide range of new weaving machines.ITEMA Weaving’s new Sultex A9500 air jet weaving machine, for instance, is equipped with a special shed geometry designed to promote a long dwell while drastically reducing air consumption, introduced Dr Hua. With its high performance and simplified design, the A9500 produces excellent fabric quality. The long weft insertion time and the high efficient nozzles ensure the optimum acceleration curve for any type of yarn.Among the new machines he introduced at the seminar was Lindauer Dornier's AWS 8/J G air jet weaving machine.With 190cm nominal width at 900rpm, it is designed for high quality Jacquard fabrics. Its newly developed SyncroDrive is one of its significant components. An electric control circuit to the separate drive of the Jacquard machine replaces the cardan connection between weaving and Jacquard machines.http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4295/Article.aspxThe sustainability and green issues are becoming increasingly important throughout the global textile supply chain. In the 5th annual conference of the RITE (Reducing the Impact of Textiles on the Environment), a group formed in 2007 after a landmark sustainable textiles conference organized at the University of Leeds, inter-disciplinary discussions were held on these issues.Cotton growers use fewer resourcesJ Berrye Worsham, President and CEO of Cotton Incorporated from the US, said during the conference that cotton now accounted for only 6.2% of global pesticide sales. On the cotton growing front, he highlighted that the US has decreased its energy use by 66%, land use by 25%, irrigation water use by 49%, soil loss by 34% and greenhouse gas emissions by 33%. According to a lifecycle inventory and lifecycle assessment of cotton fiber and fabric, consumer phase has consumed the major amount of water and energy used during the lifecycle of a cotton garment, he said.Innovations in dyestuffs and chemicalsOn the other hand, innovations in dyestuffs and chemical help improve business as well as help consumers meet new challenges such as sustainability, noted Paul Hulme, President of Huntsman Textile Effects. Chemical innovation could impact upon the costs to be controlled.He showed how the introduction of Huntsman's product portfolio in one mill had decreased water usage from 960,000m3 down to 360,000m3, electricity down from 2.1 miokW to 0.8 miokW, and CO2 emissions from 428 tonnes down to 163 tonnes over a specific time period. Huntsman has introduced intelligent effects through finishing that would provide freshness, active comfort, lasting colors and easy care - all factors that would contribute to sustainability by decreasing the resources used in cleaning garments.Enhancing traceability of supply chainTim Wilson, CEO and Co-founder of Historic Futures Limited from the UK, discussed at the conference the setting up of the company in 2003, which is now a recognized team of experts in supply chain traceability. It has developed String, a secure, online platform for business networks to manage and share product and process information, from raw material to finished product.According to Mr Wilson, this system works by each organization in the supply chain using String to record information about how their products were produced. It can incorporate information on which suppliers provided raw materials, which processes were carried out and which finished products were produced. String then links the information from the complete supply chain to form a total product history from raw material to finished product. Stringtogether.com strengthens customer relationships, improves efficiency, increases supply chain visibility, increases trust and can increase sales because suppliers using String can clearly differentiate their products in an increasingly crowded marketplace, he added.Corporate water stewardshipDiscussing corporate water stewardship in the supply chain was Linda Hwang, Manager of Research & Innovation of Business Social Responsibility from the US. She stressed that in the 21st century, there is an increasing and inequitable demand for water and an on-going over-appropriation of this essential resource which the United Nations had termed a fundamental human right. The carbon footprint surrounding the energy cost of water extraction is now being actively considered and the assessment of the corporate water footprint is becoming widely practised. This includes the volume of water required together with the products and services used in direct operations and in the supply chain.She added that around 70% of water is used in agriculture and there are risks over water supply, and thus lack of availability of water or reallocation of water resources during drought could occur. Regulation could cause suspension of the right to discharge or permit supply. A company's impact on freshwater resources could impact adversely upon the brand image. She highlighted that the textile industry must concentrate on better practices and measure improvements as well as the impacts of its water usage and wastewater production on services and communities.For the full version of this article, please refer to the forthcoming ATA Journal Dec/Jan issuehttp://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4283/Article.aspxEven though Hong Kong has moved out most of its manufacturing activities to China and Asia where production costs are lower, Hong Kong still holds an advantageous position in the textile and garment industry according to industry insiders speaking at the Evolving Fashion Forum held during the recent Interstoff Asia Essential.To stay competitive by providing added valuesFor Hong Kong textile and garment manufacturers, the FOB (Free On Board) costs have continued to increase due to the spiraling costs of raw materials and labors as well as the unfavorable currency exchange situation, noted Dr Harry Lee, Chief Executive Officer of TAL Apparel Ltd, one of the leading garment manufacturers in Hong Kong, while reaffirming Hong Kong's important position.Dr Harry Lee, CEO of TAL Apparel Ltd"Hong Kong is a higher cost base, and it is difficult for Hong Kong manufacturers to participate in FOB reduction," he said, remarking that some manufacturers are shifting their costs to customers by raising the IMU (Initial Mark-Up) or by moving their production to cheaper countries. Holding a different view, Dr Lee suggested manufacturers look thoroughly at their entire product life cycle and find out the root-causes where they can actually reduce the costs. In addition, they should strive to provide more value-added services.He explained that in terms of service, manufacturers can look at customers' entire product life cycle from design, product development and procurement to manufacturing, logistics and inventory management. He emphasized, "It will be our job to create new innovative products to allow customers to differentiate from other competitors. It is also noteworthy that we should provide values for products - not price."Edges of Hong KongShirley Chan, CEO of YGM Trading Ltd and Chairman of the Hong Kong Brand Development CouncilSpeaking at the same occasion, Shirley Chan, Chief Executive Officer of YGM Trading Ltd, a marketer and builder of international apparel brands in Asia, said, "If you want to introduce your brands to the China market, Hong Kong is an important platform through which to do so."She stated that Hong Kong has sophisticated legal system in protecting intelligence property, quality lab testing service as well as a good sense of design and innovation. Also, Hong Kong is a preferred hub for global sourcing, where professional institutions and associations in the industry are present."Hong Kong is the key platform where east and west meet. It also performs as the middleman to promote brands to the China market, and vice versa, for Chinese brands through Hong Kong to bring to the world," said Ms Chan.Felix Chung, Chairman of the Hong Kong Apparel SocietyHer views are echoed by Felix Chung, Chairman of the Hong Kong Apparel Society, who stated that Hong Kong will become a super servicing center in the next 10 years.At the forum, he pointed out that many international high-end brands are eyeing Hong Kong because of its proximity to China. "Since last year, there are so many overseas brands having their IPOs (Initial Public Offerings) in Hong Kong; and it is noteworthy that two international high fashion brands are queuing to get their IPOs here. It is because it is easy to get the money in Hong Kong and they [the fashion brands] are targeting at the China market," he explained.In order for Hong Kong to develop into a super servicing center, he highlighted the paramount importance of fashion talents, suggesting that local institutions should include more fashion-related subjects like fashion trends and fashion marketing in their syllabus to foster future fashion talents.http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4270/Article.aspxQuality control is no easy feat, especially amid the unrelenting cost challenge. To help textile manufacturers optimize production efficiency and reduce costs, Uster has developed the new Quantum 3 yarn quality assurance system, as well as its new "Total Testing" approach, which ATA Journal had a glimpse at the company's stand at the recent ITMA 2011 exhibition in Barcelona, Spain.Quantum 3: smart clearing technologyThe Quantum 3 is Uster's latest clearer system that measures, analyzes and proposes how the yarn on the winding machines can be tailored to the spinner's quality and productivity needs, hence allowing textile manufacturers to optimize production efficiency and reduce costs. Equipped with new capacitive, optical and foreign matter sensors and powerful processing electronics, the system shows, for the first time ever, the full yarn body, that is, normal yarn with its set of expected tolerable natural variations. The new foreign matter sensor has multiple light sources to detect new colored foreign fibers and to help separation of colored foreign fibers from mostly non-disturbing vegetable matter. The contamination package of the product is completed by a brand new polypropylene clearing option.Uster stressed that Quantum 3 can learn everything it needs to know about the running yarn in just two minutes. Then, drawing on its built-in Uster know-how, it proposes suitable clearing limits to achieve the required quality level, enabling Quantum 3 to forecast exactly how many cuts will need to be made to reach quality goals.Sivakumar Narayanan, Uster's Product Manager for Online and Data System Products and Head of Marketing China"We have integrated our know-how into the clearer, and customers can now only press one button to find the optimal setting to reach a good balance between quality and productivity," said Sivakumar Narayanan, the company's Product Manager for Online and Data System Products and Head of Marketing China, during Uster's press conference at the show. "This was a very complicated process before, but now based on the Uster's built-in know-how, the clearer will learn the yarn first, and then come up with the optimal setting for customers."Total Testing: from uncertain results to predictable profitsUster's Total Testing approach was developed to meet textile manufacturers' need to strike a balance between minimizing costs and consistently achieving the required quality through proper control of yarn quality. Combining laboratory testing, process monitoring and know-how, it comprises four key elements to help textile companies to transform their business from uncertain results to predictable profits, the company noted.Element 1: From sampling to continuous testingAccording to Uster, yarn producers need the capability to optimize their process in terms of speed and machine set-up. Combining continuous testing with laboratory tests does exactly that. Laboratory sample testing with Uster's HVI 1000 and Tester 5 enables producers to control raw material and define initial machine settings, while at the same time benchmarking and certifying the quality of their finished yarn.Reine Wasner, Uster's Vice President of Marketing and Business DevelopmentWith the new Quantum 3 yarn clearer, 100% of the produced yarn can be tested for key quality parameters, said Reine Wasner, Uster's Vice President of Marketing and Business Development. "This identifies production problems for further machine setting optimization, while on the other hand it prevents faults in the final product by removing any remaining disturbing defects. In addition, it allows for constant monitoring of production to ensure that the final product is of consistent quality within defined limits - any 'outliers' from these limits caused by defective bobbins are identified and corrective action can be taken."Element 2: From varying to consistent qualityConsistent quality depends on managing available resources in accordance with quality and cost parameters and making decisions based on facts, data and know-how. Uster claimed to be the only company to provide both the application know-how and a complete range of laboratory testing and process monitoring instruments to minimize waste and cost, while at the same time reproducing an article to a specified quality time after time.Quality parameters based on tests conducted in the laboratory, together with the results from clearing (Quantum 3), give clear indications on how to choose the right mix of raw material and set the machine correctly for consistent quality, explained Mr Wasner, adding that any quality exceptions - such as uneven yarn or wrong counts or contaminants - are monitored 24 hours a day and removed at the winding machine, assuring stable quality for customers.Element 3: From subjective to objective qualityMore than 50 years ago, Uster established the first quality standard specifically for textiles, Uster Statistics, providing quality references for the classification of fibers, slivers, roving, and all kinds of yarns (cotton, synthetic and cellulosic) based on data from producers around the world. According to the company, Uster Statistics have become the trusted benchmarks across the entire textile value chain, acting as a basis for trading, for benchmarking and certification. In the cotton trade, quality tags from its HVI 1000 are essential for a fair price and good deal and they are supported by national cotton classification offices in, say, the US, China, Uzbekistan and Pakistan. Spinners use Uster Statistics to set quality targets, to benchmark performance against competition and to certify the quality of finished articles.Element 4: From fiber to fabricDr Geoffrey Scott, Uster's CEOUster explained that quality starts at the very beginning - with the raw material and producing the right quality yarn. By using the single fiber test instrument, Uster AFIS PRO2, optimal settings can be defined for each step of the mill process to minimize waste. Mr Wasner noted that there is a series of corresponding instruments, namely : USG PRO for sliver quality monitoring (cards and draw frames); Tester 5 for sliver, roving and yarn analysis; Tensorapid / Tensojet strength testers for sliver, roving and yarn testing (staple / cotton and continuous / filament); Zweigle HL400 hairiness tester; and Quantum 3 yarn clearer. He stressed that Uster is the only company able to supply a complete spectrum of instruments for cotton classing, yarn testing and monitoring. Continued investmentAt the press conference, the company also reported that it successfully handled the challenges arising from the financial crisis and textile crisis, adding that it maintained profitability throughout the crisis, acquired Zweigle products, and had Toyata Industries as its new major shareholder."Most important of all, we have continued our investment in the future so that we will have new products introduced to the market," noted Dr Geoffrey Scott, Chief Executive Officer of Uster. He also highlighted the crucial need to understand customers' needs in processing and operations.http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4263/Article.aspxAt the recent ITMA 2011 trade exhibition, innovation and sustainability were the key elements shown in the exhibits presented by Switzerland-based Oerlikon Textile, which included Oerlikon Barmag's new eAFK automatic texturing machine, Oerlikon Saurer's new Allma TC2 two-for-one twisting machine, and Oerlikon Schlafhorst's latest Autocoro 8 rotor spinning machine, among others."With our innovations, we primarily focus on the world's megatrends and offer technological solutions that meet our customers' requirements," said Thomas Babacan, Chief Operating Officer of the Oerlikon Group and Chief Executive Officer of Oerlikon Textile, at the company's press conference during the fair. "We have achieved significant energy efficiency with eco drive systems and spindles, and developed outstanding solutions with less waste production."Thomas Babacan, COO of Oerlikon Group and CEO of Oerlikon TextileMeanwhile, the company has developed technological innovations to make their machines to achieve higher productivity and quality in the production of chemical fibers, staple yarns, synthetic staple fibers and nonwovens, added Mr Babacan.Innovations shown at ITMA 2011Like the eAFK, Mr Babacan explained that the automatic texturing machine can significantly increase efficiency and productivity with higher product yield due to automatic doffing. He added that higher yarn quality can be obtained due to the "no-touch" principle, where no manual contact with the yarn is needed.Meanwhile, packages with the same running length make for a considerably more economical further processing of the yarns, as well as for higher prices for the textured yarn, said the company.As for the new Allma TC2, Oerlikon explained that materials in the titer spectrum from 235 to 60,000 dtex can be processed with production speeds of up to 450m/min. The machine's power consumption can be reduced by up to 50%, and it has increased quality and efficiency due to 50% reduced number of yarn breaks. Furthermore, the machine claims to be the only cabling machine worldwide for processing aramide and rayon.The Autocoro 8 claims to be the world's fastest and most flexible rotor spinning machine. Oerlikon introduced that every spinning position is autonomous and individually automated, and that single drives are the key to the increased capacities of the new Autocoro 8. In addition, there are rapid acceleration times, which are up to 80% shorter than with conventional rotor spinning machines equipped with belt drives. As a result, down times during acceleration are dropped, as well as the energy losses involved. With Autocoro 8, rotor speeds can be increased by up to 10%, the company emphasized.The Swiss company highlighted that 100% of its exhibits came with the e-save label, a green label the company created in 2004 to brand components and machinery with significantly reduced energy consumption with emphasis on four aspects: energy, economics, environment and ergonomics.Dr Michael Buscher, CEO of the Oerlikon GroupOptimistic outlookAt the press conference, Dr Michael Buscher, Chief Executive Officer of the Oerlikon Group, also reported that the chemical fiber market had ongoing high demand due to replacement investments, substitution of natural fiber capacities and investments in high-tech solutions especially in China. Meanwhile, he perceived that natural fiber market began to slow down due to the volatility of the cotton price.When it comes to the company's highlights of first half year, Dr Buscher said confidently: "Our recently launched innovative products paid off and supported margin increase. We have also strengthened our market position in China with increase of sales share from 65% to 69%.""The chemical fiber market remains at high level, and the company's sales are expected to increase due to strong orders with sustainably high profitability," he added.http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4259/Article.aspxIn recent years, Brazil is striving to gain more influence in the global textile and apparel market. On the manufacturing side, it has been upgrading its technology to add values to its products for the sake of expanding its exports. Besides, more and more Brazilian designers are showcasing their collections at major international fashion shows, not to mention the country's growing retail market.According to Rafael Cervone, Executive Director of Texbrasil (Brazilian Fashion Industry Export Program), Brazil has the fifth largest industrial network of textiles and the fourth of clothing in the world with more than 30,000 companies in the textile and clothing industry. It is rich and self-sufficient in natural materials such as cotton, and stands out in production of natural and synthetics fibers, a segment in which it has invested significantly over the last years. The country will soon become self-sufficient in the production of polyester filaments, he added."Brazil is familiar with and operates throughout the production process from spinning, weaving, finishing to knitting and so on. Brazil is also outstanding in design and has worked very hard for sustainable production, which represents a considerable portion of investments," said Mr Cervone, remarking that the attributes that set the country apart are lifestyle, versatility in production, sustainability and innovation, its flexibility to work in different ways and to understand the diverse needs.A catwalk at Fashion Rio 2011 in Brazil (Image source: Texbrazil)He stressed, "The country is striving to move more strongly towards exports, since there are many opportunities in the export market and we are fully capable of fulfilling them."Growing retail marketOn top of exports, Brazil has a growing domestic consumer market. Mr Cervone noted that it has become one of the largest markets in the world and yet it remains to have a very high potential, with a recent survey by AT Kearney consultancy placing Brazil as the most attractive clothing retail market among the emerging economies.Recent statistics reveal that in the first half year of 2011, Brazil's textile and apparel imports reached US$2.97 billion, up by 31.7% compared to US$2.25 billion in the same period of 2010. Meanwhile, its exports hit US$760 million, up by 20% compared to US$680 billion during January to June of 2010.Brazil's major imported products were synthetic fibers, readymade garments and fabrics. Among them, readymade garments contributed US$930 million, up by 55.69% year on year, while its imports of synthetic fibers hit US$460 million, a year-on-year increase of 31.5%.Challenge with high exchange rateIn discussing the major challenges the industry is faced with, the Executive Director of Texbrazil highlighted the high exchange rate. "The high exchange rate has manifested the fact that Brazil's tax rates are the highest among emerging economies," he said, adding that under-developed infrastructure, which raises the price of delivery of goods and services; the second highest energy costs in the world; and high interest rates, are also problems to be dealt with.In response to the hefty challenges, the Brazilian Textile and Apparel Industry Association (ABIT), together with the Brazilian government, is making attempts to strengthen the garment industry in both the domestic and the foreign markets by creating better conditions for national enterprises. "Among these actions are initiatives to combat irregular and unfair competition with foreign products in our country," revealed Mr Cervone.http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4241/Article.aspxWhen we look at a fancy nightgown, a pair of vintage-washed denim jeans or a custom-made leather jacket, no matter how meticulous we are on details, we would almost never pay attention to what stitches them together, threads.Things as seemingly insignificant as threads, however, can actually make a huge difference in the sense that determines whether the dress, pants or leather jacket can be perfectly executed or has to be remade."Because thread is just a small part, many textile and apparel manufacturers seem to overlook its importance. In fact, sewing leather with poor quality thread can ruin the whole batch of fabric and cause very costly loss," said Jackie Wong, Senior Marketing Executive of Amann Asia Ltd, which has 150 years of experience in producing high quality sewing and embroidery threads, in a recent interview with ATA.Jackie Wong, Senior Marketing Executive (left) and Leo Wai, General Manager of Amann Asia LtdBecause of that, the German thread maker has been working on educating textile manufacturers and retailers alike in the importance of using high performance threads and promoting their benefits in cost-savings, he said."We deliver the message to customers by promoting from upstream to downstream, and from downstream to upstream. Manufacturers pay attention to production efficiency and even though good quality threads are more expensive, they could save a lot in production efficiency in sewing," said Leo Wai, General Manager of Amann Asia Ltd."For instance, to achieve preferred washing effects, denim jeans may undergo multiple washing and finishing many times, and during the process, thread breakage may take place easily if manufacturers are using lower quality threads which are unable to handle chemical and physical erosion," he explained.Software for thread demand calculationFor textile manufacturers, calculation of thread demand for their production could be a major headache. In collaboration with the UK-based GSD (Corporate) Ltd, Amann has recently developed a computer software called Intelligent Thread Calculation (ITC) as a value-added service to its customers.According to the company, the ITC is a scientific and consistent mathematical solution aimed at helping customers accurately calculate the amount of threads required during production. It calculates thread demand per style with such variable as BSI/ISO stitch classification, stitch density, width of bite, material thickness, seam length and end of seam wastage."The ITC system helps our customers optimize cost and inventory management - overestimating the thread demand will lead to excess inventory, whereas underestimating the thread demand will directly affect the production lead-time," noted Mr Wong.To expand Far East presenceIn discussing its latest development, the German company, which sells its products directly and through distributors in more than 100 countries worldwide, told ATA that it is extending its presence in the Far East markets with China as its first step. Earlier this year, it opened its production site in Yancheng, China, Amann Sewing Threads (Yancheng). According to the company, with a yearly capacity of 3,000 tonnes, the new site comprises a fully automated dyeworks, and can carry out different processing steps through to customer-specific finishing.In addition, Amann has new projects in the realization phase to further strengthen its presence in the Far East markets. The company will open a new production site in Bangladesh in 2012 and a new production site in India in 2013.Innovative threadsThe significance of innovation prevails in every sector of the textile industry, including thread manufacturing. Amann told ATA that its R&D is based on assisting its customers in enhancing the quality of their innovative products.For instance, it has developed Xtreme-tech with Dyneema, which is an ultra high-tenacity, multi-resistant sewing thread, made from bonded high performance polyethylene (HPPE) continuous filaments.Xtreme-tech with Dyneema can be applied for sailingThe thread is 15 times stronger than steel, but has such a low density that it floats on water. It is hydrophobic, extremely durable (high resistance to UV-light, chemicals, water and abrasion) and has a high fatigue and cut resistance. Xtreme-tech with Dyneema is developed for applications with high safety requirements, such as sailing, haulage ropes, paragliders, fishing nets, aerospace, load restraint/lifting systems and protective clothing. Besides, in response to the growing demand for high performance sportswear, Amann has developed an extremely elastic thread sabaFLEX. It offers elasticity based on a modified polyester raw material and more than double the seam elasticity on lock stitch seams compared to standard sewing threads.According to the company, sabaFLEX provides maximum seam elasticity in stretch fabrics, reducing the risk of seam breakage through overstretching. It added that double chain stitch can be replaced with lock stitch, and thus 42% of thread consumption can be saved.Colors always bring dimension to the fashion world. Amann has developed SABA Multicolour. It is a multi-colored thread that allows a brand new and specific variety. It can be used for eye-catching buttonholes, decorative stitching and topstitches. The fashion world is all about exerting creativity. Amann has developed a glow-in-the-dark embroidery thread ISA TEXLIGHT, which can be applied to kidswear, sportswear, bags, satchels, shoes, caps and so on. For decorative sewing applications, its ISA TEXLIGHT 40 can be used to achieve an illuminating effect.http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4228/Article.aspxVersatile and durable, denim jeans are a cornerstone of the American wardrobe. Almost all US consumers own denim jeans, while the average consumer owns seven pairs.Average prices of denim jeans increased in the first quarter of 2011. According to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor survey, almost three-quarters of denim jeans at retail are priced below US$39.99. The average retail price of denim jeans was US$37.41, up slightly from US$36.24 in the previous quarter and from US$35.46 a year ago. Although there have been increases, this first-quarter price was lower than the average retail price in 2009 (US$39.28). While full effects of higher raw material prices have not likely made their way to retail shelves, lower retail inventories resulted in fewer discounted jeans. In fact, only 46% of denim jeans were priced "on sale" in the first quarter of 2011, down from 55% for the same period in 2010.Price versus quality and fitWhile price is at the top of the list for general clothing purchasing decisions, it is less of a factor for consumers when buying denim jeans. The premium denim movement that peaked in 2005 initially increased consumers' willingness to pay more for jeans; however, over time, the lasting effect on the jeans market is the trickle-down to the mass market of "premium" fabrics, styling, and fit, bringing with it increased expectations of quality and fit regardless of where consumers shop for jeans. Jeans with a higher cotton content (90% cotton or higher) have historically garnered a price premium. Consumers see the value in paying a little more for a jean that will fit better and last longer, and 76% of consumers think better quality clothing is made from natural fibers.Women consider more factors when purchasing denim jeans and find greater importance in these factors than men. Fit was ranked as the top factor for women when purchasing, which was found to be very important by 83% of women surveyed. Women also considered comfort (77%) and flattering look (71%) as top factors, with price (66%) coming in fourth. Fit and comfort are equally important for men, with 66% finding those factors very important, and fewer than half of men finding price important. This is not surprising, as men are generally more likely than women to pay full price than to wait for clothing to go on sale, and this has been a constant trend for almost two decades.Brand, as a deciding factor in denim jeans purchases, ranked lower in terms of importance to both male and female purchasers. However, this does not necessarily mean brand is not considered. While brand name alone may not affect whether a consumer purchases denim jeans, it may communicate how the jeans will fit, feel, and look based on his or her previous experience with the brand. In fact, over half of consumers prefer to buy the same brands of jeans they already own (56% of women and 52% of men). However, 31% of women said they had no one favorite brand, compared to 24% of men.While retail inventories of denim jeans are lower than a year ago, fall purchasing plans are positive. Sixty-six percent of consumers say they will purchase new jeans this fall, and 78% of parents plan to purchase new jeans for their children. Euromonitor International projects that sales of denim jeans will increase 4.1% in 2011 to US$14.7 billion.Competitive US denim jeans retail marketAccording to the Cotton Incorporated Retail Monitor survey, in the first quarter of 2011, denim jeans represented 12% of clothing (excluding children's wear) at US retailers, down from the same period in the past two years. Higher-than-average inventories of knit shirts, replaced denim jeans on store shelves.Such increase is advantageous for both the retailer and consumer. Retailers are able to provide a low-cost, easily replenishable product and consumers get a quick and lower-priced wardrobe update. The shift was most notable in the specialty sector, where denim jeans represented only 4% of retail offerings (down from 9% in 2010), while knit shirts increased their presence to represent almost half (47%), up from 37% in 2010.State of denim jeans imports to USIn 2010, approximately 98% of denim jeans available at US retailers were imported. A record of 604.9 million denim jeans were imported into the US in 2010. China, Mexico, and Bangladesh were the top suppliers, accounting for 68.4% of imports. Following the record shipments in 2010, from January to May 2011, denim imports were down 8% over 2010 to 171.4 million units, and dollar volumes were down 0.1% to US$1,316.9 million.Among the top 10 suppliers, only Nicaragua, Lesotho, Indonesia, and Cambodia saw increases in units shipped. Mexico continues to be the largest sourcing location for men's and boys' denim jeans (41% YTD May 2011), while China is the top supplier for women's and girls' jeans (44.2% YTD May 2011).(For the full version of the story, please refer to the upcoming October/November 2011 issue of ATA Journal.)http://www.adsaleata.com/Publicity/Focus/lang-eng/article-4220/Article.aspx