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Technical textiles: innovation in parallel
Issue date:01/08/2007
ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Aug 2007 Issue
Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel
Added performance and integrated electronics were the twin themes of Techtextil and Avantex 2007, Adrian Wilson reports
The Rukka motorcycle jacket featuring Dow's Active Protection System
The Rukka motorcycle jacket featuring Dow's Active Protection System
The combined European Techtextil and Avantex 2007 shows, which took place in parallel from June 12-14 in Frankfurt, Germany, were the most successful to date in terms of both exhibitor and visitor numbers.

The events served to demonstrate the continued growth of textiles in non-apparel performance functions, as well as the continued integration of electronics into clothing.

The Techtextil and Avantex Innovation Awards illustrated the sheer diversity of current developments in these fields.


Active Protection

Dow Corning, for example, received a Techtextil award for the development of its Active Protection System, while Finland's Rukka received an Avantex award for a motorcycle suit which features it.

Dow's Active Protection System marries performance spacer fabrics to a specially-developed silicone coating.

Under normal conditions, its molecules move easily, but on impact, lock in position and the fabric becomes rigid. The energy of an impact is absorbed, reducing the forces transmitted through to the body. After impact, the fabric returns to its original flexible state.

Other Avantex award winners were Schoeller Textil for its c_change bionic climate membrane and Belgium's Imasol SPRL, with Setila and Idem Conseil of France for their development of photomuminescent textiles which allow light to be generated for over 12 hours.


Blast resistance

A team from the UK companies Auxetix, Heathcoat Fabrics and the University of Exeter were awarded a Techtextil Innovation prize for their development of helical-auxetic blast curtains.

Bomb blasts cause damage by generating a pressure shockwave, which shatters materials in its path. The majority of those injured in an attack are hit by the flying debris that results.


Photoluminescent textiles which allow light to be generated for over 12 hours developed by Imasol, Setila and Idem Conseil
The fibers in conventional fabrics react to this pressure by stretching and tearing as the pressure pulls them taut, which stops them catching debris.

However, when auxetic materials stretch they show a unique property — they get fatter rather than thinner. This means that under tension a large number of pores open up across the surface of the material, allowing the shock wave through and leaving it intact to catch glass and other debris.


Irrigation

Another Techtextil award was made to the Saxon Textile Research Institute (STFI) for a textile water and energy saving irrigation system for application in hot and arid climatic zones.

This was developed in cooperation Internationale Geotextil, based in Twistringen, Germany, and ECO Rain based in Huenstetten, Germany, and consists of two layers of nonwovens containing parallel fixed perforated flexible tubes.

The nonwovens water over a large area while the integrated tubes refill the material. The structure of nonwovens offers a high water storage capacity. Irrigation could be a completely new market for nonwovens manufacturers, the STFI believes.

Techtextil Innovation Awards were also presented to:

  • The Institute for Textile Technology and Process Engineering, Denkendorf and the Plant Biomechanics Group, University of Freiburg in Germany for a technical blade of grass;


  • BASF for the development of self-cleaning textile surfaces with a nano finish; and


  • The Institute for Textile and Apparel Technology at the Technical University of Dresden for functional translucent concrete based on the fixation of rod-shaped elements made of solid or tubular fibers in mat or matrix form.



  • ColdBlack

    Another interesting new development from Schoeller Textil of Switzerland was a new fabric treatment called ColdBlack for the motorcycle outfit market.

    The special finishing technology influences reflection in the infrared spectrum so that dark colors reflect the sunlight in the same way that lighter colors do.

    With ColdBlack, dark colors achieve a reflection up to 80%. The finish alters the reflective power in the non-visible area without perceptibly influencing the color in the visible area. This allows better heat management so that black clothing with ColdBlack finish stays cool for longer than comparable materials.


    Electronics

    The extent to which electronics and also special finishes have now been successfully integrated into commercially available products was apparent in a special display at Avantex featuring the products of some 20 companies.


    The special display of smart garments from over 20 companies at Avantex
    The special display was organized by the smartTextiles community, which is being founded in a bid to boost public awareness of smart textiles.

    "The multiple application areas of high-tech fabrics and wearable electronics, that have been brought to the market recently is remarkable," said its founder Dr Isa Hofmann. "The number of companies that are developing intelligent features that have not been applied to apparel items in the past is steadily growing. Nobody wants to miss this promising trend."


    Dry cleaning

    Leading in this area is the UK's Eleksen, which launched new dry-cleanable, programmable sensor technology as the next generation of its flagship ElekTex textile sensors for embedding in apparel.

    These are particularly suitable for apparel manufacturers to embed into everyday clothing, which experiences higher cleaning frequency than ski jackets and winter coats.

    ElekTex smart fabric transforms labels and jacket sleeves into controls for mobile entertainment and communications devices. The sensors are popular among top clothing designers, based on their lightweight design and durability.

    "Apparel manufacturers appreciate the cost-effectiveness and flexibility of ElekTex," said Robin Shephard, CEO of Eleksen. "With this next evolution of our sensor technology it is easy to adapt to different types of electronics and even to modify the number of buttons on the controls. Now with the ability to dry clean this highly durable material, we expect to see a wealth of new high-end clothing lines utilizing ElekTex sensors."

    Another new Eleksen product is an electronics module for FM radio.

    This offers consumers access to FM radio broadcasts either from a commercial radio station or from a widely available FM transmitter accessory attached to an iPod or other MP3 player.


    Solar power

    A men's outdoor jacket with integrated solar cells to power electronic devices was presented by Germany's Hohenstein Institutes at Avantex.

    The prototype product is the result of the Solartex project involving nine partners from industry and research supported by Germany's ministry of economic affairs with funds from the Landesstiftung Baden-Württemberg.

    It has been developed at Hohenstein in collaboration with the Institute of Physical Electronics at the University of Stuttgart (IPE).

    Within the Solartex project, flexible solar cells have been optimized, suitable power supply and connecting elements have been developed, new methods of fixing the components have been investigated, sensible areas of application have been defined, and the optimum positioning of the solar cells on the garments has been analyzed.

    Due to the optimized plug connections and particularly flexible, mechanically stable solar cells, the prototype jacket can also withstand treatment in domestic washing machines without any problems.


    Yarn cable

    Novonic by W. Zimmerman is billed as the first textile yarn cable that can be integrated problem-free into any kind of textile structure to provide functionality.

    "The structure of Novonic is very simple," explained the company's sales manager Lu'ai Wahoud. "An elastic or inelastic core yarn is spirally wound around a wire, while this combination is subsequently protected with an exterior yarn covering."

    The result is a textile cable that has sufficient mechanical flexibility and high elasticity, providing a kink-insensitive and expandable electrical conductor in combination with a textile feel.

    The company has established four key brands — Novonic Heat, E-Blocker, Data and Sensor.

    Novonic E-blocker textile is being integrated in the inner pockets of outerwear by a number of manufacturers and consists of yarns that have been sheathed in silver.

    Due to the high share of silver, and as a result of a patented production method, the Novonic E-Blocker achieves a unique shielding value of 99.9999% — as confirmed by the University of the Federal Armed Forces of Germany in Munich, where it was tested in the high frequency, microwave and radar technology department.

    It provides shielding that is the equivalent to a two-meter thick concrete wall.


    "Intelligent" textiles leave a mark


    by Manik Mehta

    The Techtextil event also provided pointers in the direction of future trends, one of which was that consumers would prefer intelligent and efficient textiles in the future.


    Water-saving irrigation mat by Technical University of Dresden (Photo from Messe Frankfurt GmbH/Jean-Luc Valentin)
    The Technical University of Dresden was displaying concrete-based parts with small holes. But, as Annett Dorfel, a researcher of the university explained, the holes had been filled with so-called "functional fibers" which allowed entry of light while keeping the rain water out. The Technical University of Dresden was prominently displaying a water-saving irrigation mat, which saved 70% of water consumption. With two layers of fleece and perforated tubes, the product was intended, primarily, for the agricultural sectors of tropical countries.

    Another novel product introduced by the Technical University of Dresden was an air-conditioned multi-functional bed system. Combining active air-conditioning with an optimum sleeping position, pressure elastic spacer fabrics were interlocked in layers to prevent them slipping without restricting the flow of air through the extremely air-permeable textile construction. The bed's mattress protection layer was a textile surface made from threads containing silver.

    Shanghai Tanlon Fiber Co Ltd, based in Shanghai, showcased its innovative polysulfonamide (PSA)-based Tanlon, which was considered a new alternative in the growing market of flame and heat-resistant fibers.

    Fugafil Saran of Raesfeld, Germany presented photometric fabrics for the contract sector, which were primarily of interest to architects, designers and fair-construction companies. Its new project Landshut was a textile façade for external use. The textiles were stretched evenly over a steel frame and anchored to a steel supporting structure.

    Flame-retardant and hydrolysis resistant yarns seemed to enjoy popularity at the Frankfurt shows. Diolen Industrial Fibers, Anheim, Netherlands, a manufacturer of high-strength yarns for high-tech fabrics that had a wide range of applications, displayed a new yarn, Diofort at the show. This patented multi-filament PPS yarn was particularly suitable for use under extreme temperature conditions.
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