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| Issue date:01/02/2006 |
| ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Feb 2006 Issue |
| Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel |
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| Knit products that feature special functions in addition to wearing comfort are sought after in the consumer marketplace, Mac Isaacs reports from America |
Exciting, new, innovative. These are just some of the terms being used to describe today's knitted products. From apparel to industrial, from active wear to medical products, end users are finding new uses for knitted fabrics almost daily.
Products designed to meet demands
Don Alexander, President and Founder of Anovotek LLC - a consulting firm that assists companies with developing new products from the concept stage to marketing - says, "There are a number of reasons that knit fabrics are finding new uses in the performance arena. Not the least of these is the fact that knit fabrics have the ability to conform to almost any shape."
He points out that it is certainly possible to produce knits that are dimensionally stable, contrary to what many believe is a knit fabric disadvantage. Other features that make knit fabrics attractive include the ability to stretch, the drapability and the comfort factor. For this reason, much of today's sportswear and active wear is manufactured from knits.
The "Ove Glove" is one example of today's high performance knitted fabrics. It is made from an outer layer of 86% DuPont Nomex and 14% DuPont Kevlar - the same materials used in firefighters' gloves. These two materials make the glove fire and heat resistant, withstanding temperatures up to 480°F. The thermal properties of the glove's outer layer dramatically extend the time a person can handle a hot object.
The tough exterior of the glove forms a thermal isolation barrier, slowing the temperature increase in the interior layer of doubleknit cotton (discussion of spacer fabrics found later in this report). Even when exposed to an open flame, the outer layer will not catch fire or melt. And because the glove is knitted, it has a five-fingered flexible grip that can be used on either the left or right hand.
PowerSox is owned by the Moretz Sports Division of Moretz Inc, a family-owned business founded by Hugh Moretz in 1946. Headquartered in Newton, North Carolina, Moretz Inc is the honoree of Wal Mart's select 2003 and 2004 Supplier of the Year award.
Moretz, already a manufacturer of some of the best selling brands of athletic socks in the US, recently launched a new specialty line for men and women designed to aid in the specific area of foot care. The line offers organics, sensitive, support, dry feet and diabetic styles.
Charles Moretz, Creative Director, Moretz Sports, says, "Moretz Sports and PowerSox have been the first choice of professional and amateur athletes for 60 years. Many of our customers are staying active just as long and refuse to be slowed by ailments that might have been limiting in previous generations."
There are an estimated 90 million people in the US with treatable foot problems, including approximately 18 million diabetics.
William C. Smith, Founder and Principal, Industrial Textile Associates (ITA), says, "While knits do not comprise the majority of industrial textile fabrics, they are certainly making inroads."
A good example is the production of spacer fabrics at Gehring Textiles for military use. Smith explains that spacer fabrics are made by knitting two layers of fabric that are held together by interlacing yarns, often monofilament. These are knitted much the same way, Smith says, as velvet fabric. Velvet fabrics are made by weaving two layers of fabric together that are split apart, leaving the "fuzzy" feel of the velvet.
A common of example of spacer fabrics are those that are filled with air and used for insulation purposes. Spacer fabrics are also used to make insect repellent fabrics and cushioning for shoes. In the case of Gehring, the development work involves such flame retardant fibers as Nomex and Kevlar and PBI.
Founded as a family business in 1946, New York-based Gehring Textiles Inc has become a major manufacturer of warp knit fabrics used in apparel, home textiles, sporting goods, medical, industrial and highly engineered applications. Custom manufacturing is the company's strongest asset. Vertically integrated and technically advanced, Gehring operates knitting and dyeing mills where quality control, innovation and technical assistance are of paramount importance.
The hosiery market (such as PowerSox) is certainly an area where performance fabrics developments are becoming commonplace. While production of ladies' pantyhose has definitely been on the decline in the past several years, production of socks has seen a corresponding increase.
Sally Kay, President of the 100-year-old Hosiery Association (THA), says, "There are a lot of exciting things going on in the hosiery business these days. Innovation in fabrics, raw materials and knitting equipments is bringing new and creative products in our industry. Companies are producing socks that are fashionable and functional. They look good, and they are good for you."
Kay continues, "We have socks that contain antimicrobial products, products for blisters, wellness, diabetics. We have interesting raw materials - fibers made from corn husks, flower pulp, all sorts of exotic things."
The flexibility of knitting allows the production of socks with toes knitted in |
Silver has become one of the leading bases for antimicrobial products. Made from silver, Dorafresh, which is being introduced by Germany-based M. Dohmen is currently hitting the sock and other markets.
Knits make up the leading material for pile fabrics found in automotive interiors, even more than wovens. Such companies as Milliken, Guilford and Collins & Aikman are heavy into warp knits for automotives. Velcro closures are usually made from knit fabrics as well.
Based in Newark, New Jersey, Safer Textiles provides an excellent example of a knitter that can supply fabrics treated with a variety of specialty systems. Safer Textiles is a dynamic, integrated textile company that markets finished dyed fabrics and prepared for print fabrics to a wide variety of converters, apparel manufacturers and specialty markets.
Albert Safer founded the company in 1977 as a commission knitter. Over the years, the company has expanded its operations and scope, acquiring several printers, dyers and finishers to create the Safer Textile Group. With a number of operating divisions and annual sales in excess of US$100 million, Safer is a leader in many textile industry segments.
The company has approximately 200 circular knitting machines and 10 computerized jacquard machines. It can produce fine-gauge knitted fabrics and widths up to 76 inches. It supplies fabrics treated for fire retardant, DWR-durable water repellant, moisture management, UV inhibitors, stain release, anti-static and SPF-solar protective factor.
Apparel the largest market segment
Of the three major markets for textile fabrics, apparel, home textiles and industrials, knitting probably makes the least impact on home textiles. Although you can find some knitted sheets and pillow cases and some knit terry, the numbers pale in comparison to their woven counterparts.
By far, the largest market segment for knitted fabrics lies in the apparel area. Alexander says that almost all sports apparel is made from knitted fabric. Because of the fabric's natural ability to stretch, it is comfortable, making it an ideal material for those products and product linings.
Alexander cites the trend toward casual wear in the workplace as another boon for knitted fabrics. Henley or long-sleeve knit shirts are becoming the norm in the cooler months; short-sleeve golf shirts are popular when the weather is warmer. Seamless garment making is definitely a province of knitting. Underwear, lingerie, sleepwear and lounge wear are all mostly made from knitted fabrics.
Italian-based Cifra SpA is recognized as a world leader in innovative seamless garment knitting. Recently, the company offered a new collection aimed at the dynamic, modern and chic woman.
The new collection includes articles which can be coordinated with jacquard designs, classic or alternative lace, geometrical designs of any kind and style, expressly produced to emphasize the femininity and energy of the body in motion, according to company officials. The collection includes articles from underwear to outerwear, from bath to sportswear-embellished by new yarns and textures. Among new products are Cotone-containing a "fresh and comfortable touch of Lurex all over", and Bicolor for both stockings and outerwear.
Knit apparels make up the largest segment of knit goods |
Israeli company, Nilit, recently announced its trend concepts for Spring-Summer 2007, which is presented in the Sensil Bodyfashion Trendbook. Oded Brier, Marketing Manager, says, "For Spring/Summer 2007 Bodyfashion embraces all the moods of fashion conjuring up images of luxury, sensuality and exotic destinations. The desire to wear beautiful bodywear is stronger than ever, and lingerie and bodyfashion are considered an integral part of ready-to-wear. This season we see an interplay of products that are a fusion of fashion glamour, lingerie and dynamic active wear.
"The cutting edge technology of Sensil yarns links seamless bodywear to the latest fashion trends, which become dynamic partners in creativity. The wide variety of Sensil yarns perfected for seamless and circular knitting inspire decorative and functional products that offer increased comfort and well-being, while bringing fashion and fun to bodywear."
The trend book defines five trends for Spring/Summer 2007 and highlights the yarns and colors best suited to these trends.
Latin Rhythm. An exotic mood takes us to a destination of a Latin country where we discover rich inspirations from Spanish and Portuguese cultures and ancient civilizations. Timeless local handcrafts and flamboyant embroidery adorn bodywear with folkloric and ethnic style. Tango and dance forms with Caribbean rhythm inspire lingerie, which is both exotic and expressive.
Sweet Temptation. A romantic mood with an atmosphere full of joy and charm. Sexiness and naivete are inspired by nature's treasures, flowers, picnics and delightful gourmandize. Surprising combinations of laces, florals and checks in happy and delicious colors characterized a junior theme over-flowing with femininity and sweet happiness.
Simple Harmony. A holistic mood for a trend based on today's need for simplicity and pure aesthetics. Bodywear has a mood of tranquility and a retro touch, combining well-being and technology. Inspired by easy living and Scandinavian design, subtle styling has an understated look and discreet charm. Fabrics are compact and airy with a natural hand.
Body, Mind, Spirit. The quest for harmony and well-being remains a dominant lifestyle trend to keep a balance in these times of high-stress living. Leisure activities such as fitness, yoga, dance and the martial arts are a perfect blend of spirituality, health and self-growth. Essential seamless bodywear ensures physical comfort, performance and unrestricted movement.
High Energy. Power fitness demands multi-functional active wear that is created for intense action. High-performance characteristics are essential, and seamless technology provides the ultimate solutions. Combining compact knits and cleverly engineered panels, seamless garments with unusual anatomical cuts ensure enhanced performance while providing freedom of movement and support.
Knit manufacturing has shifted east
The last five years have seen a tremendous shift in manufacturing of knitted fabrics to eastern countries, especially China and Pakistan. This trend is expected to continue.
The amount of production of knitted fabric in the US from 1999 through 2004 (million pounds)
Source: US CEnsus Bureau-Cerrent Industrial Reports |
According to the US Census Bureau, US mills knitted 953 million pounds in 2004 (the latest year figures are available), down 47.7% from 1,882 million pounds in 1999. This breaks down into 195 million pounds of warp goods in 2004, down 51.7% from 404 million pounds knitted in 1999; 758 million pounds of circular goods in 2004, down 46.5% from 1,418 million pounds in 1999.
One thing about knitting today is certain: No matter where the fabric is produced, there is ample opportunity for the creative and innovative to develop products that will be attractive, functional and that will appeal to the marketplace. |
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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