| Dow Corning Corporation has developed a new softener, which is a patent pending, easy-to-use, granulated silicone technology with a combination of properties that enables softening to be combined with other, previously incompatible, processing steps. This eliminates separate washing requirements and has the potential to reduce process water consumption by as much as 30% to 50%. Combining steps also reduces utility costs, processing time and energy, and improves productivity. This results in a relatively positive environmental impact without sacrifice in denim garment or fabric characteristics. |
Traditionally, processing and finishing denim garments to achieve the well-worn, soft, comfortable look and feel preferred by many consumers has required large amounts of water and energy. In recent years, such processing has frequently been recognized as environmentally unsound. The issue of environmental sensitivities as well as labor costs associated with multi-step garment processing have forced much of these operations away from the US and Europe.
Conventional denim garment and fabric fading process |
To provide a faded look to denim garments, processors traditionally use a multi-step process that includes desizing, enzyme fading, and softening.
Silicones, particularly amino-silicones, are widely used as softeners in wet finishing, while enzymes and other chemicals used in denim garment and fabric processing often have poor performance compatibility with these substances. Consequently, most processors do not use silicones with enzymes in the same processing step when a faded look is desired.
As seen in following table, in the conventional denim garment process, the required steps vary from 7 to 11, depending on whether bleaching is used to enhance contrast. Large quantities of water are used in all of the steps, further depleting increasingly scarce water resources. In addition, the process contributes significantly to effluent loading.
New softening technology with silicone
Against the background, Dow Corning Corporation has developed a new technology using a unique silicone formulation in a distinctive, granulated delivery form.
New technology by Dow Corning aims to use less water in denim garment processing |
This new GP 8000 Eco Softener has good compatibility with enzymes and can be used in different steps of the process. This patent pending technology enables denim garment processors to potentially reduce water consumption by 30% to 50%. In addition, energy consumption can be reduced and faster throughput can be achieved by combining processing steps, saving time and improving productivity and profitability.
It offers the following benefits:
Good performance compatibility with enzymes used in denim garment processing
Good stability in high shear conditions
Stability in a wide pH and temperature range
Good anti-redeposition properties
Natural, rugged hand feel
From above: Conventional recipe – non-bleached denim (4 baths, 75 minutes total time); Recipe 1 – non-bleached denim (savings versus conventional recipe: 2 baths and 10 minutes); Recipe 2 – non-bleached denim (savings versus conventional recipe: 2 baths and 25 minutes) (Remark: To remove fiber and dye staining as per customer requirement)
From above: Conventional recipe – biopolishing twill garments (4 baths, 95 minutes total time); Recipe 3 – biopolishing twill garments (savings versus conventional recipe: 2 baths and 15 minutes); Recipe 4 – biopolishing twill garments (savings versus conventional recipe: 2 baths and 30 minutes) (Remark: To remove fiber and dye staining as per customer requirement) |
Applicable for exhaust and padding
This new eco-friendly softener is designed for use in denim garment processing. It can also be applied by exhaust or padding application methods.
Depending on process requirements, it can be used in the following process steps:
In the desizing bath
In the stone wash bath
In the enzyme wash bath for fading
In the post-bleach neutralizing bath
In the enzyme wash bath for biopolishing twill garments
In the rinsing bath for any of the above processes to both rinse and soften in a single water-reducing step
To soften garments where there is a tendency for color redeposition
In the spraying process on steamed garments to achieve a high-quality finish
As shown in tables on the right, when Dow Corning GP 8000 Eco Softener is used in the bath following the enzyme fading process, the resulting denim garment has the same faded appearance, contrast and feel as would have been achieved using the traditional process.
The product, pre-diluted in a small quantity of water, is added to the rinse bath following the enzyme fading process at approximately 1.5-2.5 gms per liter (2.5-4% over weight of garments). It can also be used in the same bath as the enzyme fading process, depending on the level of back-staining desired. The product is to be added 30 minutes after the start of the enzyme fading process.
The pre-diluted product is added in the same bath and treatment is continued for another 15-20 minutes. This does not inhibit the fading process and the processed denim garment has the same appearance and feel as that resulting from the traditional process.
In addition to its use in denim garment processing, this new softener (See Recipes 3 and 4 in the following table) can be used to process twill garments where a faded or washed look is typically achieved using cellulase enzymes. In this case, it is useful in the rinse bath following the biopolish process or in the same bath as the enzyme bath. The twill garment will have a washed look and a soft hand.
Source: Dow Corning Corporation
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