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| Issue date:01/10/2008 |
| ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Oct 2008 Issue |
| Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel |
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by Sanjay Gupta
We have witnessed that many products initially innovated for exclusive uses have later become daily necessities for general consumers. The Internet, for example, is one of these items. What the athletes wear at the Olympic Games today may someday be seen everywhere as such engineered garments are being commercialised.
Fashion trends rise and fall but there are some keep going till they become a staple for everyone wardrobe. Performance or functionality is one such trend that started as a technology trend, became a fashion trend and is now showing all signs of a continuous, exponential growth.
As more diverse technologies are brought into the fold, new design concepts evolve, giving this category novelty and growth momentum. These properties come from the garment construction, the fabric and trim specification, and/or fibers and chemical treatments.
Performance is as much about the materials in the garment as the garment itself. Innovations in yarn and new fabric technologies, particularly in knitting, are allowing performance apparel to offer a wider variety of fabric textures to the marketplace. In terms of fabrics and fabric treatments, options include coating, lamination, membranes and micro-porous fabrics.
Performance apparel is getting popular among general consumers |
Performance apparel used to be purchased by athletes. Today, owing mainly to the efforts of big brands like Nike, Adidas and Reebok, who invested millions of dollars into educating the consumer about the benefits of performance wear, these garments emerged as a fast-growing addition to most consumers’ wardrobes.
Growing segment in developed world
A marketing research firm, Research and Markets estimated the global market size of performance sportswear at US$6.4 billion in its recent report. Up 19.4% over the last four years, it is expected to make a further 18.75% increase to US$7.6 billion by 2014.
New entrants are coming in fast. In recent years, US-based Under Armour has attracted more teens to buy branded sports apparel than Adidas and Nike combined. The company is a developer and seller of branded performance apparel and footwear. Its moisture-wicking synthetic fabrications are engineered in different designs and styles for wear in nearly every climate to provide a performance alternative to traditional natural fiber products.
Under Armour targeted a 25% compounded annual growth rate in net revenues from 2007 to 2010. It estimated the 2008 annual net revenue to be between US$765-775 million and the profit after deducting operation expenses between US$103.5-104.5 million.
Casual wear is increasingly popular, especially in developed markets. Performance apparel is marketed as a more comfortable casual wear that gives you added functionality, improved comfort and fashionable design with varied colors, prints and silhouettes. More people now wear performance apparel to coffee shops or for a leisure walk, or to hang out with friends or even to offices on casual Fridays.
The definition of performance apparel is complex. Performance wear is often defined as engineered apparel that keeps athletes cool, dry and light throughout a competition, game or practice. One of the most common performance properties is moisture management, transferring moisture away from the body to keep the wearer cool, comfortable and dry.
In recent times, hygiene has become more essential to the public. People want antibacterial and odor prevention qualities along with UV protection. They also want products that are specifically designed to keep them cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
Also in demand are easy-care garments that do not have to be washed very often, removes dirt easily when washed, dries fast and needs no iron. As people in the developed markets are living longer and acting younger, there is an emerging demand for body-care products, which are designed to help mature population combat ageing.
In terms of fibers, the performance market revolves around synthetic microfibers. Recently, however, environmental issues prompt manufacturers to experiment with natural products like bamboo-, soy- and corn-based fibers or yams. Cotton is usually avoided, as it is not as breathable as it is perceived and gains weights when the wearer sweats.
Lightweight and managing moisture on skin
Microfiber fabrics are lightweight, soft, easy care, low pill, low shrink and fast drying. Weight rates high in the mind of fabric manufacturers. Helly Hansen, Jack Wolfskin, Gore, Salewa and Samsonite make references to the light weight of their new ranges that can go as low as 105 grams per square meter. Usually made in 12-, 15- and 20-denier, these fabrics find use even in most demanding applications.
The market for moisture management fabrics continues to expand as apparel marketers shift their attention to the high end of the market, and general consumers place increasing importance on functionality.
Moisture management is a key performance criterion as it prevents perspiration from remaining trapped next to the skin. Trapped moisture heat up in hot weather, leading to fatigue, discomfort and diminished performance. In cold conditions, trapped moisture cools rapidly causing chilling and hypothermia. Trapped moisture also causes the garment to weigh heavier on the body and may cause damage to the skin from chafing. Garment worn next to the skin or worn during exercising thus requires moisture management.
Moisture is transported in textiles through capillary action or wicking.
In textiles, spaces between fibers effectively act as capillaries, and transport liquid away from the surface. The narrower spaces between fibers in a fabric are there, the more effectively they draw up moisture. Microfibers are hence considered ideal for moisture transport.
Another factor affecting moisture management is absorbency. Higher absorbency of a garment increases its ability for moisture retention and saturation. Fabrics wicking moisture rapidly through the fabric without absorbing, such as polyester or polyamide microfibers, are better regulators of body temperature, improving muscle performance and delay exhaustion.
Moisture management capabilities can also be enhanced by using certain finishing processes, by varying the fabric or fiber construction, or by using a blend of fiber types. Bi-component materials comprising of non-absorbent material on the inside and absorbent material on the outside make effective moisture management fabrics.
Clothing made with Invista’s CoolMax |
In terms of key producers, one of the world’s leading manufacturers of polyester-based moisture management materials is Invista. This company’s CoolMax and Thermolite brands are found in a wide range of garments for sports and outdoor activities. Other known names in this field include Patagonia, Polartec, American Fibers and Yarn, Comfort Technologies, Hind, Honeywell, Intera, Intex, Lenzing, Marmot, Milliken, Mitsui, Nano-Tex, Nike, Pearl Izumi, Reebok, Rhovyl, Schoeller, Tomen, USA-Pro, and Wellman.
The concept of hygiene or durable freshness applied to various kinds of apparel is another major growth concept in recent times.
A number of antimicrobial treatments available on the market keep garments smelling fresh for longer by killing bacteria.
An alternative approach is the use of b-cyclodextrin, which with a suitable reactive group, could be covalently bound to cotton and act as a renewable source of odor-entrapment. Garments that required less frequent laundry may reduce environmental pollution.
The use of antimicrobial treatments can also help prevent infections. Garments such as intimate apparel, socks, gloves and especially textile products used in footwear clearly present a large potential market for retention of freshness during wear.
Antimicrobial treatments are also crucial to performance sportswear. There are a number of approaches to antimicrobial finishing, including the use of silver nano-particles, while companies such as Nisshinbo Industries and Rudolf Chemie introduced products in this area.
Body-care garments with a variety of body caring or well-being effects are available today, using microencapsulated finishes with active ingredients like aloe vera gels.
When in contact with the skin, these microcapsules transfer some active substances. Some Japanese manufacturers introduced supplements like amino acids, vitamins, xylitol and other food additives into fabric to maintain pH (potential of hydrogen) balance in the surface skin or keep wearers cool.
Amino acid manufacturer, Ajinomoto has teamed up with major sports goods firm, Mizuno Corp, to develop the “Amino Veil” branded tennis and golf clothes. Equipped with amino acids that dissolve into wearer’s perspiration, these clothes can better absorb moisture and keep the skin's pH (potential of hydrogen) level balanced.
Sports clothing firm, Yonex, also launched a range with xylitol, the sweetener more commonly found in chewing gum. Yonex Xylitol-impregnated Very Cool Polo Shirts lower body heat by three degrees celsius for more comfort during the heat of play for tennis stars like Monica Seles, Elena Dementieva and David Nalbandian, as well as leading badminton tournament players.
Fuji Spinning is marketing women's T-shirts that were covered in pro-vitamin C, a liquid chemical that turns into real vitamin C when it touches the skin. T-shirts and men's shirts made with this "V-Up" technology are already available at the Takashimaya department store in Tokyo.
On the other hand, Cognis Performance Chemicals of Germany introduced the Skintex Care System, termed “Wellness to Wear” wherein active ingredients are microencapsulated to turn a simple garment into an “active-wellness” garment. The active ingredients are a blend of precious essential oils derived from the cold-pressed peel of plants, herbs and fruit or distilled from blossoms and leaves.
Dr Sanjay Gupta is Professor of Textile Design and Development at the National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi, India
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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