by Staff Reporters
The use of green textiles is getting more popular around the world. However, to be truly sustainable, textile manufacturers are advised to work on the aspects of functionality and rational resource management when developing green textiles.
Environmentally friendly textiles can be classed into three groups:
Biodegradable textiles
(1) PP (polypropylene) fiber
(2) PLA (polylatic acid) fiber
(3) High-denier rayon fiber (regenerated fiber)
(4) High-humidity coefficient rayon fiber (regenerated fiber)
Textiles that cause less environmental pollution and/or energy consumption
(1) Organic cotton
(2) Antimony-free PET fiber (toxic substance)
(3) Low-temperature dyeable polyester fiber (reduce energy consumption)
Textiles that consume less chemicals in the process of production
(1) Yarn-dyed fiber (unnecessary to redye)
(2) Optical whitening polyester fiber
(3) PU snow-white fiber
While many believe environmentally friendly textile and apparel products can reduce pollution, can a full application of them save the pollution problems we are facing?
Experts are, however, unsure about this.
"Various types of environmentally friendly fibers actually have their own pros and cons. For example, farmland for organic cotton plantation has to remain idle for five years before it is used. Genetically modified cottonseeds (e.g. with improved insect resistance) are prohibited. Organic cotton is harvested by manpower, without the use of fuels, incurring a relatively higher production cost," said Dr Jeff Chen, Project Manager at the Industrial & Economic Information Office of the Taiwan Textile Federation, during a recent seminar on green technology and environmental-friendly functional products for the textile and garment industry organized by the Hong Kong Productivity Council.
There are also downsides in organic animal fibers. Pesticide is not allowed for pastureland for the production of organic wool. As more insects are usually found, quality of organic wool is often lower than that of non-organic wool. Moreover, the processing of organic fibers is often labor-intensive, making it more expensive than processing non-organic natural fibers. It thus will take a period of time before organic fibers can be extensively adopted.
Instead, technology of tomorrow can mimic the features of natural fibers and provide added value to consumers, as well as environmental benefits to the nature.
Water-resistant NanoSphere-enhanced clothing need less frequent washing and help save resources |
For instance, the NanoSphere finish allows clothing to be self-cleaning, oil and water repellent, as well as abrasion resistant. These effects are washing permanent. Due to the use of the most modern C6 fluorocarbon technology and free of PFOA and PFOS, NanoSphere is also ecologically safe.
As the NanoSphere-enhanced clothing becomes soiled less easily, garments need less frequent washing and can be washed at lower temperatures. This saves water, energy and detergent and is positive for the environment.
Furthermore, Mr Chen pointed out that it was critical for manufacturers to explore the added value towards textiles and apparel products.
"The application of green textiles should be closely linked with added value the products can bring to the textile industry and end consumers." Mr Chen continued: "With a constant rise in labor and other costs around the world, manufacturers need to find ways to improve their profitability and the creation of added value, and green products is one of that."
DuPont Sorona is regarded as an example of environmentally friendly product, containing 37% renewably sourced material (by weight) derived from corn. The key ingredient in Sorona is DuPont Tate & Lyle Susterra renewably sourced propanediol, which replaces petroleum-based 1,3-propanediol.
However, there are concerns that the role of corn in the textile sector may impact the uses of corn in the food industry and its international price.
Consumers report willing to pay a bit more
On the market side, more consumers are demanding for better performance in their clothing. Sportswear brands have been developing functional wear with high-performance nylon and polyester, and recently wool.
Fabrics that deliver functionality, as well as merits to the nature, could be one of the future trends, according to Mr Chen.
In a survey report announced by DuPont this April, 80% of the 1,001 interviewed people aged between 18 and 65 reported environmental responsibility (ER) important; 28% rated ER as extremely important.
Conducted by MarketTools Inc in October last year, the survey aimed at examining the willingness of US consumers to buy renewably sourced products, including Sorona of DuPont.
About 75% said that their household was environmentally responsible, through recycling; using less water, energy and gasoline; and purchasing reusable and/or recycled materials and products.
Among all the interviewees, 40% were willing to pay about 10% or more for a US$100 product if the manufacturer used renewable resources rather than petroleum to make raw ingredients for the product.
About 57% of those considering ER as extremely important (275 interviewees) were willing to pay US$10 or more for a product that cost US$100, if the manufacturer used renewable resources for the product (Source: DuPont) |
In addition, 57% of those considering ER as extremely important (275 interviewees) were willing to pay US$10 or more for a US$100 product using renewable resources (corn, sugar, beets and etc) rather than non-renewable resources (petroleum) to make raw ingredients for the product (see chart below). The average premium they were willing to pay was approximately US$12.8.
Similar findings were attained among those who completely agreed their household was ER (141 interviewees). About 53% of them were willing to pay US$10 or more for a US$100 product if renewable resources were used. The average premium they were willing to pay was approximately US$12.9, according to DuPont's report.
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