|
|
| Issue date:01/12/2008 |
| ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Dec 2008 Issue |
| Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel |
|
by Lucia Carpio
As the world’s economy is facing unprecedented challenges, designers, brands and labels are proposing some of the most diverse fashion options for 2009 and 2010 to play on the consumers’ quest for escapism into a world of fantasy.
At the Première Vision Pluriel (P.V.) international textile trade exhibition in Paris in September 2008, which included the Expofil yarn fair, Le Cuir à Paris leather fair, Mod’ Amont for trimmings and accessories, Indigo for textile creativity and Zoom by Fatex for finished garments, fabric and material producers turned out creative and provocative designs to help fashion labels and retailers lure consumers back to the cashier’s till.
Austere with touches of fun for next two years
Kevin Tallon, who heads the Trends section of the Design laboratory at Central Saint Martins said womenswear in 2009/2010 will be austere yet with touches of fun and frivolity, and a focus on small details will make a difference.
Tie and dye effect from Bopell (Italy) (left), and wool arabesques on textile from Zenith (Brazil), seen at PV Cuir à Paris exhibition |
At the main P.V. exhibition, buyers on a lookout for that comforting factor, were seduced by visually stimulating textures coupled with distinctive hand-feel. Women’s wear fabrics of the new autumn/winter 09 season revealed unique qualities playing on structures and suppleness. Fabrics looked bulky and voluminous, yet lightweight and soft to the touch. Cosy fabrics had body and a real presence.
Lace effects such as those of Dentelles Darquer and Lucien Noyon et CIE provided a special gothic look, while broderie designs by Federico Asperi and Marco Lagatolla were soft and woolly. Netting was another interesting concept on offer, featuring embroidery and crinkled textural effects.
(From left) Winning designs by designers - Hannah Jefferies, Helen Stark and Victoria Shepherd, on display at Texprint at the Indigo fair in Paris |
Prints such as tribal, paisley, ethnic-inspired effects, pop-art, futuristic and artsy blurred effects created visual interest, while embroidery and embellished fabrics gave that special value-added appeal.
Designer Paul Smith looks for unique fabric design
British designer Paul Smith viewing designs in Texprint at the Indigo fair during Première Vision in Paris |
When asked by ATA Journal at the Paris fair what advice he has for fashion designers today facing the economic crisis, the iconic British designer Paul Smith said that fabric designers needs to concentrate on “creating something unique and different.” However, Sir Paul also cautioned designers to strike a balance between design and marketing, and develop sound knowledge of commercialism and of the industry as a whole.
Sir Paul was impressed with young fabric designers at Texprint, an annual design competition that takes the finalists to exhibit at Indigo. Texprint caught the attention of such fashion leaders as Christopher Bailey of Burberry, as well as Diane von Furstenberg who is a sponsor of Texprint, because it uniquely recognises that the fabric designer provides the foundation on which the rest is built.
Dresses by Marimekko at Pure London (above two) and evening wear by Marcelane (left) at Pure London; party skirt by Afshin Feiz |
Texprint winners included Victoria Sheppard with a collection exploring pleating, stitch and manipulation techniques, while Helen Stark worked over prints with flock patterns, bleached-out grids and over-sprayed colour to create her unique vision of the future. Hannah Jefferies’ hand-painted prints combined colour with a unique energy.
Sending bright wishes with vivid colours
Indeed, colour is the new hero to provide optimism for a bright future.
While floral prints dominate, there is an endless array of colours and patterns at recent European fashion trade fairs.
Black and white are used together, while coral, pink, purple, green and blue inject energy and vibrancy. Feminine silhouettes are gently figure defining, with low V-neck cuts and longer hemlines common. Fabrics veer from linen, to cotton and sheers, along with draping silhouettes as well as sequins and button embellishments, especially around necklines.
Party wear by Junky Styling |
Along with new floral prints, dip-dyed and ombré styles, painterly prints such as those by Marimekko, jewelled bodice decorations mark a return to glamorous after-six as well as elaborate full skirted princess-style dresses, fishtail gowns, with quilting and darting adding further interest to skirts, in velvet and satin. Regal style dresses showoff satin overlays slashed to reveal layers of jewel-studded tulle. In abundance were luxury fabrics, structured pieces, architectural designs, asymmetric shoulders and intricate draping. Hemlines range from super short dresses to long, as well as trailing lengths.
Evening gowns by Linea Raffaelli |
At the recent Pure ladies’ apparel fair in London, fashion expert Khabi Mirza of Emap the organiser, said, “It’s impossible to miss the explosion of colour. Picking up on the vivid shots of pinks, yellows, purples and greens this winter to go along with pastels, coral pink, blush pink, soft yellows, apricot and lavender.”
Stylish evening wear impresses catwalk visitors
In London, designers are known for their cutting edge style with conceptual couture-like approach to evening wear that gives a new modern touch to dressing up for special occasions.
Marios Schwarb, who’s half Greek and half Austrian, specialises in adaptations of basic fabrics and techniques to create a new luxury concept. He uses dramatic panelling and intricate ruffled silk effects to reveal colours and patterns that peel away like torn wallpaper.
“I like to challenge one’s initial conceptions and ideals of a fabric or material, taking things out of their original context and re-inventing them to give them new meaning and interpretation,” he says.
(From left) Floral dress, hydranga dress, and purple print dress by Liberty of London |
At Liberty of London, creative director Tamara Salman shows exclusive vintage-inspired prints in riotous sugary colours constructed in duchess silk satin, silk chiffon and silk cotton, for her ready-to-wear dresses, separates, scarves and accessories.
While twin sisters Daniela and Annette of the Felder Felder brand, show structured “grunge de luxe” looks with edgy details, frills and ruffles on a rich colour palette, design duo Fiamma Poltock and Katie Walsh feature a structured silhouette in soft silks, satins, wool and leather.
(From left) Hour-glass dress with Swarovski crystals, an evening gown in Artsy print, and a layering dress by Erdem Moralioglu |
As embellishment will play a pivotal role in the new season’s fashion, Austria’s Swarovski Elements whose crystals adorn many couture and ready-to-wear designer labels, providing a wealth of inspirational ideas.
Canadian-born London designer Erdem Noralioglu uses vivid colours, painterly floral prints and Swarovski crystals on evening wear. “What I do is not necessarily what people associate with London or what they expect from its designers. I think I can offer something unique,” says Erdem, “when a woman puts on one of my dresses for the first time, I want her to feel it belongs to her.”
Recycling couture pre-consumer wastes saves resources
At the Estethica eco-fashion exhibition held at London Fashion Week in September 2008, a conscience for eco-awareness had led many designers to create a new concept of ‘up-cycling’ fashion for women, by relooking at vintage fabrics, and ways to reincarnate, reclaim or even recycle textiles and old clothes.
Filippo Ricci, a director of the brand “From Somewhere”, and also a curator of Estethica, said sustainable fashion that is also desirable is now a full-on trend.
As to his own From Somewhere brand, Mr Ricci, together with partner-designer Orsola de Castro, have been recycling since 1997 as all their womenswear collections are made with luxury designer pre-consumer waste – such as proofs, swatches, production off-cuts and end of rolls – transforming high-end textile surplus into fashionable clothes. The clothes can be reproduced in large numbers but they are still individually cut from high quality reclaimed fabrics including knitwear made of cashmere or cotton, shirting, silks, jerseys, tweeds and wovens.
Annika Sanders and Kerry Seager of British brand, Junky Styling, also use the recycling concept, turning out deconstructed, re-cut and completely transformed recycled clothes, thus no two pieces of the collection are the same. For their new spring/summer 09 collection, ruching and draping are the mainstay of the range for feminine curves for women to wear to London’s clubs.
Designers Minna Hepburn and Maguy de Chadirac behind the label Minna collect antique lace, recycled fabrics, Scottish lace, organic cottons and silks for their unique feminine ladies’ wear, and with matching clutch bags made from remnant materials, and painstakingly embroidered by Maguy whose background was in haute couture. |
|
| We are collecting readers' comment for improving our website. If you are willing to help, please CLICK HERE to complete a survey. Your comments matter. |
|
|
|
|
| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
|
| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
|
|
|
Close
|
|
|
Write a mail to the editor : 
