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New shades that tell the change of time
Issue date:01/02/2006
ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Feb 2006 Issue
Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel
by Mac Isaacs
Ultra bright colors are unlikely to be fashionable in the next year or two. And, according to Tod Schulman, Vice President, Pantone Inc. Fashion and Home, there is a reason. "It has to do with insecurity in the marketplace," he says. "Economic conditions, war, hurricanes, all of these things have an impact on color selections. We can expect a hiatus from using overly bright shades.

"Things will still be colorful but not 'in-your-face' bright. Expect a toning down, a softer look."

Here is a look at new colors for fabrics through the eyes of three groups, whose very existence depends on color: Those who establish standards; those who forecast future colors; and those who make color.

Trend forecasts

Headquartered in Carlstad, New Jersey (USA), Pantone Inc is the world-renowned authority on color and provider of color systems. During the New York Fashion Week held last September, Pantone presented its forecast for Spring of 2006. The result, say Pantone officials, "New York designers are awash in America's favorite color. From sea to shining sea - the Mediterranean and Caribbean to the South Pacific and Atlantic - designers have collected shades ranging from aquatic blue tint to placid skyway and seaworthy deep ultramarine. Smooth sailing typifies the calm and effortless attitude infusing the season.

"Breezy, carefree hues like lily green, fresh viola, juicy melon and French vanilla - perhaps borrowed from a Matisse-take the edge off, while pink re-enters the palette as cameo pick after a brief respite."

But going beyond the upcoming spring months, Pantone's forecast for Spring and Summer of 2007 provides an insight into the future of color for some time to come. Schulman says the company is projecting eight color ranges spanning the spectrum from whitened and flat to deep and saturated.

Schulman says, "The eight ranges provide newness and creativity and they can be used interchangeably."

They include:

Beginnings. This range represents a return to the beginning of civilization...clay, mud or straw...simplicity...ancient. It makes one think "hand-made."

White Bow. This segment is about a whitened element-not in a childish way, but sophisticated...natural elements, natural phenomena...the rainbow.

Collision. This is a split range with two segments. Cool and warm shades interact. This range will not be all cool or all warm, but rather a mixture of the two...diversity.

Bloodline. This range is influenced by ancient heritage. It is both serene and powerful...browns, purples, rust.

Osmosis. This range derives its inspiration from an English seaside...oyster pearls. It is a cold palette, one that makes you shiver. There is a hint of warmth, however, with a mauve tint.

Hybrid. This range has a complex personality, combining veiled architecture and fragile and static pinks...using opposites in complete harmony.

Random. This is the truest of the summer season. It is animated and spirited with a white influence...a fun range of colors.

Solarization. The range has the golden glow of the sun-four yellow colors...sometimes blinding. It provides a feeling of yet another day. Schulman says that in ancient times, people looked for the yellow of the sun and the blue of the water as they awoke, assuring themselves that there would indeed be another day.

Similarly, Cotton Incorporated, the New York-based marketing and research organization also provides predictions on color palettes for Spring/Summer 2007:

Curiosities. This is a palette inspired by scientific achievement and features inky blues and deep burgundies. Fabrications such as dense bottom weights and updates to lightweight denim are complemented by blurred prints and cotton/silk blends.

Downtime. This vivid palette is influenced by the simple pleasures of the outdoors. Extroverted brights and feel-good hues stimulate lighthearted laughter. Staples such as seersucker, along with grosgrain ribbon trims, mingle with novelty-inspired knitwear.

Transition. Here is a celebration of nature's adaptability and includes hues drawn from petrified wood and mineral tones injected with lively accents. Slick surfaces create a fitting stage for the palette, accented by corded effects, twills and high construction dobbies.

Heirloom. A merger of the past with the present in brilliant hues evokes a worldly heritage. Aged sepia tones, balanced with rose and turquoise, play out on antique-inspired prints, while traditional denim blues offer interesting twists.

Veiled. This palette presents delicate undertones conjuring seashell pastels with smoky casts elusive layers create presence and depth in open construction knitwear and textured prints on sheers; while presenting a soft approach in menswear.

Habitat. This palette takes us to a safe shelter reflecting natural surroundings. The reassuring, yet stimulating palette balances warm browns and energetic reds with tones of purity. We see this range in activewear fabrics and as natural effects in canvas and basketweaves.

Dyemakers' offering

German-based DyStar's new Dianix E-plus disperse dyes reach new levels of controlled coloration and color confidence in pale shades on polyester fabrics. Sensitive pale shades can be dyed with Dianix E-plus to the highest levels of shade reproducibility and color fastness, even on difficult microfibers, weight-reduced polyesters and taffetas.

Dyeing with Dianix E-plus dyes has many advantages, particularly reduction of unit processing costs through controlled coloration and "right-first-time" dyeing. Shade and color strength are standardized within very narrow tolerances. Dianix E-plus dyes have carefully balanced dyeing properties, excellent on-shade build-up during the heating-up phase and are not sensitive to fluctuations in dyeing parameters such as time, temperature and pH. Moreover, they can be applied in acid, neutral or alkaline dyebaths, making them suitable for many innovative application processes tailored to the needs of individual fabrics.

Dianix E-plus dyes also meet the high color confidence performance standards required by today's textile industry. Even on critical polyester fabrics made from extremely fine fiber qualities such as blends of normal polyester and ultrafine microfibers these dyes produce on-tone shades with outstanding light fastness.

Dystar's new Dianix E-plus disperse dyes can dye sensitive pale shades to the highest levels of shade reproducibility and color fastness.

The Dianix E-Plus range comprises Dianix Yellow E-Plus, Dianix Red E-Plus and Dianix Blue E-Plus and complements the established Dianix Plus range for medium and heavy shades on similar difficult polyester fabrics.

From Switzerland, Ciba Specialty Chemicals has added two new dyes to its Cibacron S range of reactive dyes for cellulose, which combine high quality with high cost effectiveness.

"Sales of the Cibacron S range have been extremely successful and demand is now increasing for these colors in numerous garment applications," says Peter Otto, Global Head of Marketing in Ciba Specialty Chemicals' Textile Effects segment.

Cibacron Red S-2G opens up a new shade area, allowing a variety of deep, brilliant red shades to be achieved. High brilliance can be attained with very little dye. Cibacron Red S-2G can be used on its own or in combination with Cibacron Red S-2B and Cibacron Yellow S-3R.

Cibacron Dark Blue S-GL is designed for medium and deep blue shades. It is suitable for end products requiring higher fastness to light, chlorine and repeated laundering. It is compatible with the other dyes in the Cibacron S range and can be used to cover a wide shade spectrum due to its greenish shade.

The new dyes expand the color space of the Cibacron S range, which also includes a black, a deep magenta and a crimson red, a deep yellow and a navy blue dye. Further additions to the range are planned.

Cibacron Red S-2G and Cibacron Dark Blue S-GL achieve the high standards of the other dyes in the Cibacron S range. Based on a new, patented chemistry, Cibacron S dyes ensure exceptional build up, enabling very deep shades to be produced, cost effectively with low amounts of dye. High fixation ensures good fastness and washing-off behavior, resulting in high productivity, allowing water and energy saving in mills and minimizing dye in wastewater. Good leveling and diffusion properties make for "right-first-time" results and allow short-liquor-ratio dyeing. Applications include knitgoods for leisure- and sportswear, such as polo and T-shirts, woven goods, for example shirting and pants and yarn dyeing, especially for shirting.

Also, Swiss-based company Clariant's latest offerings include:
- pioneering in the dyeing of polyester with the Foron range;
- dyeing cellulosic substrates with Drimarene a reactive range for cold and hot application;
- exploit in the field of sulphur dyes with the Diresul ranges;
- environment-friendly Nylosan /Sandolan dyes for polyamide, wool and silk;
- economical dyeing of cellulosic blends is possible by Optisal/Indosol technology.

The company's declared strategy of being able to offer the optimum solution for all segments of modern textile finishing has led to the development of electronic shade expert systems and shade matching software.
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