| Ecology and sustainability are buzzwords framing the next-generation approach to dyestuff / chemical finish manufacture, application and performance, Ian Holme writes |
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| Greener textile dyes and chemicals are increasingly preferred (Photo: Clariant) |
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Over the last year, dyemakers and chemical manufacturers have faced mounting challenges because of the increasing costs for raw materials, utilities, labour and transportation. Because of the economic downturn in the textile and clothing industries, dyestuff inventories have built up and consequently dyemaking plants have adopted shorter working time. Restructuring their production capabilities may lead to some dyestuff / chemical manufacturing plants in Western Europe being closed as manufacturers concentrate on production in Asian countries where the majority of textiles are manufactured.
Nevertheless, all dyemakers are still conducting research into novel dyes that have improved eco-credentials.
Ecology and sustainability are buzzwords that frame the global approach to dyestuff / chemical finish manufacture, application and performance.
With the REACH Regulation on the registration, evaluation and authorisation of chemicals, the European Union aims to protect human health and the environment when using chemical substances. Major companies have completed the pre-registration step, which is the precondition for manufacturing chemicals in Europe or importing them into the European Union in the future. The next phase of the REACH Regulation compliance process is the registration of the chemicals based upon their hazard potential and the amount produced or imported.
New fibre developments clearly will impact upon research and development trends in dye manufacture and application technology.
DyStar and BASF SE have recently signed a cooperation agreement on joint research and development aimed at improving the dyeing of textile polyamide fibres. BASF will develop new fibre polymers with improved dye absorption within its Ultramid product line to allow the use of dyes that achieve high levels of wet fastness and light fastness as well as good fixation properties.
New dyes used for polyamide and automobiles
DyStar has developed a complete range of reactive dyes for polyamide fibres, namely their Telon RN dyes, which include a three colour combination offering good compatibility together with very high colour fastness performance, e.g. high-end articles that require colour fastness to laundering at temperatures up to 95°C and multiple wash cycles at high temperatures. The Telon RN reactive dye range allows brilliant, deep colours to be achieved, with DyStar's well-established Isolan NHF-S and Telon M dyes complementing the range and fulfilling all the standard colour fastness requirements made by leading retailers.
Teijin has high hopes for its Purity polyester polymer, which does not use antimony or other heavy metals as polymerisation catalysts. By 2015, Teijin is aiming to make their Purity polyester polymer account for 10% of global polyester polymer production – both for fibres and polyester bottle resin. Thus, dyed Purity-based polyester fibres should offer a better ecological profile.
Clariant have introduced a new addition to their Foron AS disperse dye range for automotive / home textiles containing polyester fibres. Designed for the highest standards of light and hot light fastness Foron Black AS-3LF is a successor to Foron Black AS-LF. The new dye, Foron Black AS-3LF, is some 30% stronger than Foron Black AS-LF and provides good build-up properties. It provides a neutral shade under different light sources and exhibits low colour fading upon exposure to light. Foron Black AS-3LF offers excellent colour fastness to sublimation (up to 30 seconds at 180°C), can be combined with Clariant's Fadex UV-absorbers, and complies with all the common automotive light fastness standards.
Foron Dark Blue S-WF from Clariant is a new disperse dye ideally suited for polyester / cotton blend dyeing. It gives an improved reserve on cotton compared with Foron Navy S-WF. Covering a current colour spectrum matching gap Foron Dark Blue S-WF is suitable for both exhaust and continuous (SWIFT) applications.
It exhibits excellent exhaust behaviour, very high colour fastness to sublimation and is engineered as a base element for dark blue and navy shades.
DyStar ensures, through its econfidence commitment, that their high quality dyes are produced via clean manufacturing processes and have a sound eco profile. In this way DyStar provides clean, effective and reliable dyes for dyeing textile materials. Their Dianix disperse dye range is extensive and has been broken down into logical groupings according to dye application and performance characteristics. Strict quality control over production and ecological issues thus ensure that DyStar offers a total solution for polyester dyeing. Under the econfidence brand, the company offers Dianix dyes entailing such ecology benefits as no MAK amines, no allergenic disperse dyes, and no restricted polychlorinated aromatic compounds above accepted levels.
It has also introduced two new Dianix XF disperse dyes, namely Dianix Navy XF-AR and Dianix Black XF-AR based upon novel molecular structures that deliver excellent dyebath stability as well as good wet fastness levels. Designed for the leading sportswear brands and retailers the performance / ecology properties of the two new Dianix XF dyes meet the most exacting colour fastness and productivity requirements.
DyStar's market-leading Dianix SF red disperse dyes are now complemented by Dianix Golden Yellow SF and Dianix Blue SF, which can be used to provide deep ternary combination shades with the highest levels of colour fastness on polyester.
Dianix Yellow Brown S-4R 150% is described as "Eco compliant by design" and provides a cost-effective alternative to CI Disperse Orange 30 with a clean eco profile. Dianix Yellow Brown S-4R 150% provides a similar shade and flare to CI Disperse Orange 30 but has a significantly better wet fastness profile combined with good build up on standard polyester and microfibres. Suitable for eco clearing Dianix Yellow Brown S-4R 150% gives excellent performance on polyester microfibre and polyester / elastane blends.
There is now a growing demand for DyStar's Optidye PESoptimised dyeing program for polyester using Dianix disperse dyes and DyStar's Sera process auxiliaries to give increased productivity as well as process savings. Using a scour / dyeing process with Optidye PES and optimising the reduction clearing stage is claimed to provide the following advantages:
Process savings benefits
43% electricity
46% steam
50% water
39% process time
38% cost in total
Productivity benefits
58% productivity increase
higher right-first-time dyeing performance achieved using the Optidye PES program
A lower environmental impact in reduction clearing under alkaline conditions is achieved using DyStar's Sera Con P-RCN with caustic soda, or Sera Con P-ACT in acid reduction clearing at pH 3.5-4 compared with traditional sodium dithionite (hydrosulphite) reduction clearing systems.
DyStar also developed a new brilliant red reactive dye as extension of their Levafix CA range, namely Levafix Brilliant Red CA.
Novel shades achieved in various garment
Huntsman Textile Effects have introduced Novacron Navy C-BN and Novacron Navy FN-BN reactive dyes using a new chemistry to achieve dark and navy shades on knitted fabrics, shirting, towelling and bedding. These novel dyes give excellent reproducible results in pad-batch, continuous and exhaust dyeing applications. These dyes give high tinctorial strength and build-up combined with outstanding colour fastness, high fixation and a good washing-off profile. Novacron Navy C-BN and Novacron Navy FN-BN are fully compatible with the existing Novacron C and Novacron FN dye ranges and are suitable for dyeing all types of cellulosic fibres. Their application contributes towards considerable savings in water, energy and labour.
Nuva 1910 liquid oil and water repellent finish for cotton and polyamide-based fabrics has been developed by Clariant from fluorocarbon technology, together with a polyamide-based cationic copolymer to significantly improve the efficiency of the fluorocarbon finish. Nuva 1910 liquid has good chemical compatibility and can be used successfully with selected flame retardants. Hydroperm ECO liq from Clariant is designed for use with polyester fabrics. It is a formaldehyde-free hydrophilic finish with good softening properties to provide moisture management in shirtings, outdoor clothing and sportswear by significantly improving transport of moisture, wicking and surface evaporation.
Static generation in polyester fabrics can be decreased by Sarex's new antistatic finish termed Fabfeel Conc. This imparts hydrophilic properties to treated fabrics promoting levels of wearer comfort. Sarex (India) has also introduced Coolcot-Dry for improved absorbency and moisture management in polyester and polyester blend fabrics.
Key points
Dye and chemical makers completed the pre-registered in accordance to the REACH Regulation, and they are now working to go into the phase of registering chemicals on the basis of their hazard potential and the amount produced or imported.
Reactive and disperse dyes are two areas of greener solutions being intensely researched for varied applications on polyamide fibers, home and automotive textiles etc.
The commitment in clean manufacturing processes is also an integral part of true greener solutions of dyes and chemicals.
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