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| Issue date:21/08/2009 |
| ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Aug 2009 Issue |
| Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel |
| Staff Reporters |
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International machine builders exhibiting at the 14th International Exhibition on Textile Industry, or better known as Shanghaitex 2009, commented that some visitors were more inclined to consider placing orders at the dynamic and commercial show in Shanghai from June 12-15. |
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| The opening ceremony of Shanghaitex 2009 |
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Business seemed to revive in some sectors since the second quarter of this year, according to Eric Schoeller, Executive Vice President of Groz-Beckert KG, a system and solutions provider for textile machine builders and textile producers in the fields of knitting, weaving, felting and sewing. He said: “Feedback from visitors of this year’s Shanghaitex will be one of the most important indicators of investment sentiments (of visitors) for next months.”
Shanghaitex
2009 was visited by about 50,000 local and overseas buyers |
Mr Schoeller observed that the flat-knitting segment, for instance, has been developing positively in recent months. Incoming orders and/or inquiries were received in some segments of spinning; the next is expected to be weaving in near future, he added.Signs of revival were also found by Lamiflex-Asia, which is an Italy-headquartered supplier in the high-tech composite material industry.
“Our business picked up from this March and it is a growing market for us in the next six months, due to two reasons. First is our closer relations with Chinese machine makers, who are increasingly using our product to achieve a higher speed of their systems. As a quality leader in our field, we also expect more demand from end users (textile factories) to improve the result of fabrics they produce,” Jan Maehl, Director of Lamiflex-Asia told ATA Journal.
For cautious optimists, a return to positive growth is near as the financial condition in some parts of the world improved, confidence recovered and indicators of production and demand were considered firm. Moreover, the world market is bullish on the long-term growth of the Asian region.
The International Monetary Fund (IMF) also slightly revised its global GDP growth forecasts. Published by the IMF early this July, the latest World Economic Outlook Update confirmed recovery ahead, though likely in a weak manner. The IMF is a global organization working to secure financial stability, facilitate international trade, promote sustainable economic growth and so on.
In the Update, global activity in GDP growth is forecast to contract by 1.4% in 2009 and then expand by 2.5% in 2010, which is 0.6 percentage point higher than envisaged in April 2009.
GDP in the advanced economies is projected to decline by 3.8% in 2009 before growing by 0.6% in 2010. Growth rates are marked up mainly for the United States and Japan, the IMF stated.
On the contrary, growth projections in emerging Asia are revised upward to 5.5% in 2009 and 7% in 2010 by the IMF. “The upgrade owes to improved prospects in China and India, in part reflecting substantial macroeconomic stimulus; and a faster-than-expected turnaround in capital flows. However, the recent acceleration in growth is likely to peter out unless there is a recovery in advanced economies,” the IMF report mentioned.
Indeed, the momentum seen in Asian economies is correlated to how far advanced economies pull themselves out of the downswing. This is a question the global textile and garment industry (including textile machinery sector) is eager to learn about.
After going through half of 2009, the world’s textile machinery sector has a better picture on the impact of the global financial crisis on the real economy.
The world trade in textile machinery suffered a sudden halt in 2008, according to the “The world’s textile machinery industry: Overview of trade flows and market shares 2002-2008” report issued in May 2009 by the ACIMIT (Italian textile machinery association) in collaboration with Hermes Lab.
The ACIMIT estimated that the textile machinery trade experienced a slide of as much as 18% of current prices compared to 2007.
Imports of textile machinery fell 27% in China in 2008 from the previous year, the ACIMIT study mentioned. Similar declines were observed for India (-33%) and Turkey (-47%). An increase in demand was recorded in Bangladesh, Brazil, Indonesia, Egypt and Russia.
Global exports of textile machinery, 2002-2008
(Elaborated by ACIMIT based on UN and National Statistics Institutes data) |
On the exporter side, the ACIMIT noted that all primary manufacturers of textile machinery suffered from a general downturn in demand (in terms of exports). Germany recorded a 21% drop compared to 2007 levels, with similar decreases for Italy, Japan and Switzerland. However, Chinese exports were down only 4% during the same period under review.
Similar to other economic forecasters, the ACIMIT believed that China is likely to be “the first market to rejoin the path to growth”, whereas markets in India and Turkey were less dynamic. It also spotlighted nonwoven fabric market as one of the energetic sectors under the distressful economic circumstances, partly due to growing needs in the healthcare and personal hygiene sectors as well as infrastructures projects in many emerging countries.
Imports of textile machinery by country (year-by-year change)
(Elaborated by ACIMIT based on UN and National Statistics Institutes data) |
Major exporting countries of textile machinery (million euros) (Elaborated by ACIMIT based on UN and National Statistics Institutes data) |
Shanghaitex well-received as world-class marketplace
This year, the Shanghaitex fair occupying an exhibition area of 100,000 square meters presented over 1,000 exhibitors from 22 countries and regions. Machinery builders from Korea, Taiwan and Germany also participated in their pavilions respectively. Despite the economic downturn, the four-day show attracted about 50,000 local and overseas buyers.
The opening ceremony of Shanghaitex 2009 |
As a crucial marketplace for Chinese and overseas textile machinery trade, Shanghaitex 2009 was backed by 16 Chinese provinces and supported by nearly 20 local and overseas textile associations.
A large number of buyer delegations were organized to visit the fair. Locally, there were Shenzhen (深圳) Textile Trade Association, Foshan Zhangcha (佛山張槎) Knitting Chamber of Commerce, Foshan Lishui (佛山里水) Textile Association, Shantou (汕頭) Textile & Garment Profession Chamber of Commerce and so on. Overseas associations include the Indian Textile Confederation, Indonesia Textile Association, Japan Fiber Association, Korea Textile and Apparel Association and so on.
Long Yongtu |
Active participation from various Asian textile business communities indicated that the textile and apparel industry in China and Asia are keen to secure a long-term development. “We should be confident in China’s economy, which remains on the growing track for a mid- to long term development,” said trade expert and Secretary General of the Boao Forum for Asia (BFA), Long Yongtu (龍永圖), at the 2009 China Textile Industry Summit held on June 11 in Shanghai, a day prior to the grand opening of Shanghaitex 2009. Adsale Exhibition Limited is one of the organizers of the summit.
Highlights of exhibitors
Advanced calenders of Andritz Küsters presented
Andritz Küsters presented its complete product range of calenders and rolls for the textile industry as well as machinery for the nonwoven industry at Shanghaitex 2009 within the German Pavilion.
With extended experience and knowledge in calender and roll technology, the two deflection controlled roll systems — S-Roll and HyCon Roll — are renowned in the global high-end market, according to Johannes Walterfang, Manager Project Engineering of Andritz Küsters.
Johannes Walterfang (middle), Brian Hu (left), and Christian Jung, engineering mechanics of Andritz Küsters |
Particularly in China and other Asian areas, garment manufacturers focus more on quality than previous years; this is promising for Andritz Küsters, which expected more demands for textile calenders, said Brian Hu, General Manager of AKM Shanghai.
In Germany, investment for calender technology innovation and exploration of new applications on fabrics as technical textiles continues, thanks to the support of Andritz Group.
New demand for calenders achieving higher temperatures of up to 350°C and more has shed the light for future research. The higher temperature range will offer a wider application of calendering with such fibers as aramid for textiles and nonwovens.
In addition to the high-end market segment, the company also engages in technology development that further enhances the Andritz Küsters calenders and brings about more cost-effective solutions to better suit Asian market needs.
Brückner customises machinery of multiple advantages
High productivity, less downtime, lower cost and less energy consumption are the features of Brückner’s machines, according to Andreas Mondry, Sales Director.
About 20% of the company’s 350 employees in Germany work on research and development to help customers meet their specific needs. The new requirements in the market, such as short delivery time, flexibility and good quality, offer more opportunities for further improving the machines, said Mr Mondry.
Andreas Mondry, sales director (right) and Markus Nienhaus, area sales manager, of Brückner |
“We sell custom-made machines and can help customers to upgrade to the other fields with our knowhow. Even though production bases have been shifted to Asia, the remaining customers in Germany are very sensitive to quality. Last year (2007-8), we had 80% market share in Germany. This is, for us, a clear signal,” he said.
Presented at the show, the new Power-Frame stenter generation is characterized by the patented Split-Flow air circulation system, achieving an optimum temperature distribution across the complete dryer length and width. This is important for heat-setting processes and in the end decisive for the quality of the fabric.
The newly developed energy-saving systems allow the stentering processes to be more profitable, while the new dryer concept helps to increase production output by up to 25% while reducing energy consumption in the same proportion.
Chemtax provides quality and flexible machines to China
After years of developing itself as the world’s manufacturing center, China is trying to balance the economic progress and protection of natural environment. This growing awareness has prompted both the government and private sector to speed up further product upgrade and the use of energy- and water-saving machines, particularly in the segment of textile dyeing and finishing, according to Heath Kwok, General Manager of Chemtax Industrial Co Ltd.
Heath Kwok of Chemtax |
Mr Kwok added that advanced finishing machines and technology serve a critical element to achieve value-added products with such characteristics as wind resistance, breathability, and unique functions in specialty fabrics.
A group of machine builders represented by Chemtax Industrial in China market have been filling market demands of advanced systems that minimize the use of water and energy.
Thies from Germany provides innovative dyeing machines offering a low liquor ratio of 1:2 to 1:3 (compared to the market prevalence of 1:5 in Asia), lowering the use of water and the cost of wastewater treatment. Meanwhile, Erbatech introduced to knitters a cold-pad-batch dyeing approach with a Scout color machine, using reactive dyes for all cotton knit fabrics. By avoiding the use of steam, textile manufacturers are able to save energy.
Moreover, Mr Kwok observed that the hallmark of success for today’s textile and apparel businesses is flexibility and quick response towards small-volume-but-high-variety orders. He thus recommended the use of textile enterprise resource planning (ERP) software solutions, e.g. from Datatex, to integrate various machines running at the factory floor. “It allows manufacturers to plan, modify and deliver their products efficiently,” he said.
Control Techniques serves as quality partner
“We are the quality partner offering the most optimum balance in performance, reliability, global service network and price,” said Lin Qinglong, Cheng L. Lim, General Manager at Global Key Accounts Department of Emerson CT (Control Techniques) in Shanghai. A part of Emerson Industrial Automation, Control Techniques focuses on the design and manufacture of variable speed drives.
Recently, the Control Techniques’ servo drives and motors, including triple-axis MultiAx servodrive system, were adopted by Oerlikon Saurer to achieve remarkable operating speeds and precision, according to Control Techniques. In the meantime, the company continues its product development and a recent innovation is a new member of the Panel Mount range, Unidrive SP Size Zero. It reduces the drive size by 60% for motors from 0.37kW to 1.5kW.
Despite of the current economic downturn, Mr Lin was optimistic with the great potential of the textile machinery market in China. “More OEMs in the country are making efforts to enter higher end segments, where automation is called for,” he said. He revealed that the company is considering for expanding the business and technical development in China to tap opportunities in the areas of spinning, winding and embroidery.
DiloGroup sees new trends in nonwoven field
DiloGroup presented at this year’s Shanghaitex its latest developments in regard to fibre preparation, opening and blending, card feeding, carding and airlay machines, the range of high-speed crosslappers and needlelooms. It exhibited textile samples and informed the customers about high-technology, high-speed equipment and standard universal solutions of the Alpha series that offers a very economic ratio of production yield to cost.
DON Dosing Opener from DiloGroup |
Johann Philipp Dilo, CEO of DiloGroup, said, “We focus on the latest dosing opener DON including fine opening capability from Temafa, the high throughput and blending quality of the Baltromix system and introduce into high-speed carding at large working widths of up to 5.1 m including the technology to randomize the fibre orientation in the web as well as about Alphacard and the newly developed Multicard system.”
In regard to crosslapping, emphasis at the fair was laid on the Dilolayer DL model series for speeds up to 160 m/min.
The range of high-speed needlelooms included stroke frequencies of up to 3,000/m, Hyperpunch and Cyclopunch kinematics for highest throughput speeds of up to 150 m/min, and the Hyperneedling concept for extremely low weights down to around 30-40 g/m² with applications in the medical nonwovens field.
Additionally, the DI-LOOM A needle loom series is an economic alternative when standard universal applications are the priority and less investment costs a prerequisite.
“In this current economic environment, utmost emphasis has to be laid on fibre savings, which is the largest cost factor in the textile industry. Therefore, our revised Profiline CV1-A system offers a great opportunity for more weight regularity in the nonwovens product with associated reductions in fibre consumption and fibre costs. This new CV1-A system offers the best and most cost-efficient solution for fibre savings,” commented Mr Dilo. He was also confident with the company’s development in the carding and needleloom field, with its high-speed and high-precision crosslapping machines and the new Multicard with Multifeed and Alphafeed combinations.
Mr Dilo viewed that the Asian market with China foremost showed already signs of recovery, and this performance the Asian market for the second half of 2009 through 2010.
“With the economic difficulties in the car industry, we expect more applications of needled nonwovens in the car interior as decoration or as technical felts, also based on natural fibre. The processing of natural fibre is covered by the range of our machines from Temafa. He continued: “Another trend is to reduce fibre mass in the fleece, described above through the function of the Profiline CV1-A system. Highly precise batts and needled felts with low weight variations are the choice to stay competitive.”
DTC Systems offers total solutions
“We are the first company in Asia to offer a totally integrated solution that enhances flexibility to the textile production and communication process through the improvement of information flow and transparency in relation to color management and dyeing processes,” said Patrick Poon, Managing Director of DTC Systems.
As accurate and up-to-date information is easily accessible, factory managers can optimize each of the dyeing production processes effectively, so as to bring down costs, save resources, respond market changes more swiftly, and ensure a consistent level of dyeing quality, according to Mr Poon.
In order to achieve the above objectives, the company has developed total solutions for color management and for dye houses.
Instead of having a color master to “read” colors by human eye, DTC Systems presents a digital solution for color management, with the use of Datacolor Match Textile color-matching system and VeriVide DigiEye imaging system to handle an entire colored image.
Patrick Poon of DTC Systems |
A further solution for dye houses is provided for the whole dyeing process, using CDB Optilab dyeing process analyzer; a dyeing process management system; a dyestuff weighing, dissolving and dispensing system; an auxiliary dispensing system; a fixing system; a heat recovering system; a centrally controlled system connecting with various dyeing machines at the factory floor; and other devices, Mr Poon explained, adding that users can adopt this ultimate answer for reliable and efficient dyeing with a series of phases.
“Dye houses can find a number of individual systems available in the international market for different dyeing procedures. However, we offer a full range of controllers, as well as a professional dye recipe and process management software, that link up the entire dyeing process, which can then be synchronized with the factory’s enterprise resource planning (ERP) system. These controllers are provided by Logic Art, our Taiwanese partner specializing in dye house integration for over a decade. As a result, we are able to provide cost-effective solutions to Asian users,” he said.
Solutions for cleaner environment from Fong’s Group
Low water consumption, energy saving and clean environment have formed the theme of the booth for Fong’s Group, which showcased machinery from its subsidiaries, including Fong’s National Engineering, Then Maschinen, Monforts Fong’s and Xorella.
The booth of Fong’s features energy saving and low water consumption |
Xorella highlighted the XO-Series energy saving vacuum conditioning and heat setting machines, which could help users reduce energy consumption by 15-25%. The new series features an advanced XO-steaming system, which uses the intermediate vacuum technology and combines with internally produced 100% saturated steam for effectively conditioning, setting, pre-shrinkage and relaxing textile products.
Monforts Fong’s introduced the latest complement to post-finishing range, MonfongTex 868 shrinking range. With compressive shrinking technique, it imparts dimensional stability and consistent residual shrinkage to woven fabric.
Meanwhile, the Labwin laboratory package dyeing machine is a flexible tool for pre-treatment, dyeing and after treatment of packages.Then-Airflow SYN A G1 system operates with the advanced dyeing technology as the Synergy system, but at temperature of up to 98°C, ensuring optimum protection of the fabric.
Thomas Archner, CEO of Then, said sales had been climbing up slowly worldwide, indicating that the downturn had hit bottom. He was surprised that a lot of visitors from outside China had come to the exhibition during the crisis. Some 600 people had visited the company’s booth on the first day of the show, and he said: “Different sectors are recovering at different paces. The spinning sector, for example, faces more hardship as there is over-capacity. For dyeing and finishing, the decline is less drastic.”
Groz-Beckert positioned as system and solutions provider
Groz-Beckert, a system and solutions provider of high-technology parts and tools for production of textiles, displayed a group of novelties and further developments in the fields of knitting, weaving, felting and sewing.
Eric Schöller (middle) of Groz-Beckert KG; Renato D’Agostino (left), Vice President Sales, and Martin Philipp, Sales Director China of Grob Textile AG |
“Though the booming market experienced in 2007 is not yet seen in this and next year, the business beats the expectation – pick-ups were observed since the second quarter of 2009,” said Eric Schöller, Executive Vice President of Groz-Beckert KG. Segments of knitting (especially flat-knitting) and spinning are doing relatively well, he explained.
The cutting-edge complete knitting head units from Groz-Beckert KG have been increasingly adopted by Asian knitting machine builders to improve their systems’ performance. Examples include Tayu Knitting Machinery (Taiwan) and King Tanso (China). Additionally, Groz-Beckert KG presented a popular E44/34” single jersey cylinder at the fair, which enables to convert machines without changing cams, as well as the litespeed, the latest needle generation for high-performance circular knitting machines.
Groz-Beckert knitting head is equipped into the GT series of Tayu knitting machine for high-end fabric manufacturers |
To further facilitate innovation, a new technology and development center is under construction at the company’s headquarters in Albstadt, Germany. On a site covering more than 25,000 square metres, it is expected to open in mid 2010, offering an ideal location for enhanced training and education, visionary developments and sustained innovations.
In the weaving aspect, Grob Textile AG, a group member of Groz-Beckert, demonstrated PosiLeno, a new leno binding system. The positively controlled leno device for riderless heald frames, enabling production to be doubled; ALtop high-performance aluminum heald frame; and other products applied for the manufacture of technical fabrics.
Renato D’Agostino, Vice President Sales of Grob Textile AG, and Martin Philipp, Sales Director China, explained that weaving tools from Grob Textile AG help Chinese and Asian (including Turkish) users produce differentiated products at a faster production speed.
Igus highlights its simple-to-use and affordable solutions
In the textile industry, the absence of lubricants and dust resistant is prioritized. The long-life Igus polymers are dust-resistant and operate in the absence of lubricants even with high cycle times in textile machines, according to John Ji, Regional Sales Manager at Igus (Shanghai).
In recent years, the company has been developing specifically for users in China, who often value high wear resistance and a longer service life, easy and simple maintenance, strong dust resistance, as well as a competitive price/performance ratio. Three recent innovations, J4, GLW and R-type materials are budget choices for users who have a high utilization level, but the application is less complicated, Mr Ji explained.
Karl Mayer displays new warp knitting machines
Resiliency of the latest textile machinery fulfills today’s market needs, Karl Mayer told ATA Journal.
Oliver Mathews (right), and Wolfgang Herold, sales manager of Karl Mayer |
The Karl Mayer Group exhibited two new developments of warp knitting machines. Introduced in 2008, the TM2 Tricot Machine has been well received in the Chinese market, according to Oliver Mathews, Division Manager, Warp Knits & Specials. This manufactured-in-China machine offers efficient production of simple, inelastic articles, and is easy to operate.
A dress produced on a Karl Mayer DJ machine |
Introduced in autumn 2008, the Seamless Smart machine DJ 6/2 EL (44” working width) was premiered to the world at the Shanghaitex 2009 exhibition. The new double needle bar Raschel machine is a resilient and smart machine capable of manufacturing both hosiery and seamless garments (e.g. pantyhose, innerwear and sportswear) with extended patterning possibilities including Jacquard. Users can manufacture seamless garment with special Jacquard patterns in one machine. Moreover, this smaller and fast-producing model provides a better price/performance ratio at significantly lower investment cost compared with 138” RDPJ 6/2, Mr Mathews explained.
He said: “We received better-than-expected incoming orders in the first half of 2009. Customers in this economic situation are looking for new ideas and approaches to improve their production and this is what we’re trying to offer.”
With approximately 200 people in R&D at the headquarters, the family-run group is strongly committed to bring innovation and new machines to the market.
The establishment and continued development of Karl Mayer China and Karl Mayer Academy helps offer a wider variety of machinery options (both made in Germany and China) and localized training classes to users in the Far East.
Kern-Liebers to develop complete range of needles
Kern-Liebers has been widening its range of needles catered for the knitting industry, aiming to develop a complete range.
Josef Hetzel, area sales manager,
Kern-Liebers |
Working closely with major machine builders, the company offers more than 40,000 different types of knitting elements worldwide, with about 8,000 standard types readily available from stock.
Its manufacturing programme comprises loop forming elements such as sinkers, jacks, selectors, sliders, wall inserts and precision components for large diameter circular machines, seamless hosiery machines, flat bed machines, single cylinder sock machines, double cylinder sock machines, fully fashioned machines (cotton frames) and weaving looms.
Josef Hetzel, area sales manager, said the company’s partners in the knitting industry were doing fine despite the slow market.
In China, he said, a turnaround could be expected earlier, as there were signs of recovery in the last few months. “We’ll have a clearer picture in the next three months, as demands usually dip after the Lunar New Year (in January),” he said.
Klüber Lubrication in China focuses on cost performance
Klüber Lubrication, a supplier of special lubricants, provided a portfolio of products that suit various needs in the Asian market.
Wei Zhiyan, General Manager of Klüber Lubrication (Shanghai), commented that the market in China features demand for knitting oil quite distinct from that in overseas markets, mainly due to differences in workplace habit, need of equipment maintenance and cost consideration.
Mr Wei noticed that a number of textile manufacturers in Asia had accepted meager profit margins in the good times, making them vulnerable when the tide turned. Market forces remain crucial for the Chinese textile and garment sector to sustain healthy development. Support to domestic builders from the governm ent might help them achieve better performance through the scale of production, he added.
Reliable ring travelers by Lakshmi promoted
Lakshmi Ring Travelers (Coimbatore) Limited (LRT) is the largest manufacturers of ring travelers (in volume) in the world, marketing high-tech and long-life ring travelers to users in China, according to J.M. Balaji, Head of Marketing. LRT has stock points all over China in various textile spinning areas.
J.M. Balaji (right) and his Chinese partner, Robert Chan, general manager of King March |
“LRT Ring Travellers are widely accepted by Chinese spinning mills as the best ring travellers available in the global market due to its consistent yarn properties, long life and immediate availability,” said Mr Balaji, adding that raw materials of ring travelers are imported from Germany and the UK.
The market has been improving in last two months in Asia due to both export and local demands across China, India, Bangladesh and Indonesia. “I am confident that our sales will go up as improvements in economy will continue. The (economic) bottom is over. Growths are slow this year, but it will probably be better in 2010,” he said, considering better global consumer confidence was observed.
Lamiflex is optimistic with Asian markets
Lamiflex is an Italian supplier in the high-tech composite material industry. It develops and manufactures flexible rapier tapes for major weaving machine builders in Europe and Japan, including ITEMA Weaving (for Somet, Sulzer and Vamatex), Jakob Müller, Panter, Picanol and Smit; Ishikawa, Tsudakoma and others. Lamiflex-Asia takes care of the Asian operation of Lamiflex.
Jan Maehl (left) and Danny Chan, directors of Lamiflex-Asia |
“Our business picked up from this March and it is a growing market for us in the next six months due to two reasons. Jan Maehl, Director of Lamiflex-Asia continued: “First is our closer relations with Chinese machine makers, who are looking ways to achieve a higher speed of their systems and we can help by providing them the highest quality rapier tapes.”
On the other hand, “as a quality leader in our field, we expect more demand from end users (weaving factories) to improve the result of fabrics they produce. By using our high quality products of flexible rapier tapes on looms, users can produce faster by 20%-40% (due to fewer machine stoppages and lower friction generated with the yarn during the weaving process), depending on other parts used,” he said.
At this year’s Shanghaitex, Mr Maehl was pleased to meet customers from Asia, such as those from Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Thailand and Vietnam.
As Lamiflex-Asia further penetrates into the markets across China and Asia, a 20%-30% increase in the company’s business in Asia region in 12 months was projected. The market was relatively quiet during the period of year-end 2008 and the 2009 Chinese New Year. Business became more alive from this March in China, probably followed by Indonesia and Vietnam, he remarked.
Air engineering know-how of Luwa helps save costs
Luwa, an air engineering company, promoted a programmable digital system — DigiControl5 — for regulating, controlling and monitoring of all air handling processes. DigiControl5 ensures that the air is always ideally conditioned, and also allows permanent operation with optimized operating costs, Robert Kuchen, Head of Textile Air Engineering China told ATA Journal.
Using an integrated system consisting of electrical switchboards, control systems with visualization/monitoring (personal computer and/or touch panels) and field instruments, it ensures stable and safe operation.
Robert Kuchen (far left) and his colleagues at Luwa |
For manufacturers of traditional textiles, synthetic textiles and nonwovens, Luwa offers different tailor-made and efficient solutions of a comprehensive filtering and conditioning system.
Mr Kuchen explained Luwa is the only company in the market that offers their customers total solutions, which cover all air engineering processes in a factory.
A growing number of Chinese factories experience advantages brought by Luwa’s solutions, such as Fulida Textiles, Keer Group, Panther Textiles Holdings and Youngor Textiles, as well as Anhui Huamao Group and Shandong Luthai.
He added that investing in controlled system (of the factory) can save running costs simply by saving energy as precise regulating of air at the plant is achieved. These systems are more common than years before as it gets user-friendlier with Windows-based interface and touch-screen.
Mayer & Cie targets single jersey fabric and mattress markets
Mayer & Cie exhibited the Relanit 3.2 II with a 34-inch diameter in gauge E 24, equipped with a high-speed kit for elastomer plating. This machine can knit at a speed of 40 rpm, offering one of the highest productivity (in output) circular knitting machines for single jersey in combination with elastomer shown at the show, said Wolfgang Müller, Sales Director of Mayer & Cie. The machine is equipped with one needle track for single jersey high-speed elastomer plating.
From left: Wolfgang Müller; Mario Kaden, general manager, Mayer & Cie China; and Thomas Maier |
This high-speed machine requires less energy consumed per kilo fabrics produced, cutting down the energy consumed almost by half as the production speed is nearly doubled compared to conventional models, Mr Müller explained, adding that it is more appealing as the energy price will be rising. The machine is well recognized in such markets as Indonesia, Turkey and Brazil, whereas potentials are seen in China, India, Bangladesh and other Asian markets.
Another exhibit being featured by Mayer & Cie was the OVJA 1.6 EE, a circular knitting machine for full jacquard structures and patterns.
Characterized with electronic single needle selection in cylinder and dial, it is capable of knitting what the market demands, such as mattress fabrics, according to Thomas Maier, Sales Engineer.
Positive needle guidance and cylinder needles with movable butt (patented by Mayer & Cie) mean added operating reliability and stitch precision by ensuring smooth guidance and gentle needle deflection, according to Mr Müller.
“The mattress-making industry in China is relatively young and growing. Knitted mattress fabrics have become steadily more popular due to its softer touch, higher elasticity and easiness to adapt body shape. It fits well with memory foam beds and folding beds, which are in a rising demand in recent years,” he added.
Mesdan offers advanced solutions for yarn splicing
Dejan Lalevich, export manager of Mesdan (right) and Fred Kwan, business manager of Kar Ming Group |
Exhibiting with long-time sole agent Kar Ming Group, Mesdan showcased the Jointair 116G, a splicer for filament rovings and high tenacity yarns. It belongs to the new generation of manually operated splicers, specifically designed for the joining of coarse count yarns and filament rovings within the range of 1000 to 5000 Tex, typically made of glass fibres, carbon fibres and roving.Mesdan entered the China market in 1983, offering various equipments for yarn splicing, including Jointair, Aquasplicer and Hotjointair. According to Fred Kwan, Business Manager of Kar Ming Group, Jointair has been the most popular among the Mesdan splicers offered in China.
He said that the textile industry was enjoying the positive effects of the Chinese government’s measures to stimulate internal demand. Although there are indications that the industry is recovering, a clearer trend cannot be seen until October.
Mr Kwan added that domestic market might not require the same level of product quality, while the internal demand might not be sustainable either. A genuine recovery would depend on the comeback of the global market because a lot of textile manufacturers are surviving on exports.
Oerlikon as close partner for further development
Oerlikon Textile displayed a number of products at its 400-square-meter booth. They included the technology for FDY yarn production from Oerlikon Barmag. In the DTY sector, it highlighted the eFK texturing machine, which can be used with the company’s energy-saving godet technology from the MPS and COCOON and the ergonomic handling of the FK6-1000.
Ye Yongmao, vice president of China Chemical Fibers Association (left) and Andreas Engelhardt, senior manager of international business |
Other exhibits included the full range of machinery for spinning mills from Oerlikon Schlafhorst; a comprehensive portfolio with turnkey solutions for airlaid and spunbond webs productions from Oerlikon Neumag; and the embroidery and twisting systems from Oerlikon Saurer.
Andreas Engelhardt, Senior Manager of International Business, said that spending on clothing and accessories went down dramatically. Yearly growth in demand for apparel dropped to –7% last year from about 5% recorded in recent years. A small market segment that offers good margin is the polyester carpet yarns market in the US, which has been the only growth segment last year, he said.
Wang Jun, country president, China |
According to Wang Jun, Country President, China, the Chinese textile industry will only grow further due to the continuation of urbanization: about 300 million people will be urbanized by 2020. “The present difficulty we faced is just like a young boy catching a cold,” he said.
Oerlikon has six production bases in China, among which three are textile-related. Its biggest plant in Suzhou has about 2,500 workers. Ye Yongmao, Vice President of China Chemical Fibers Association, remarked that as the Chinese industry aimed to lower the cost and raise the quality of its products, Oerlikon is a good partner of the industry in the development process.
Innovative machinery of industrial yarns promoted by RITM
RITM offers an extensive range on the market of twisting, cabling, assembling and winding machines, single and double covering machines, air covering machines and combined machines with thermal treatment, for any synthetic filaments or spun yarns, from glass to man made fibers, said Gilles Antoine, Senior Area Sales Manager said.
In the field of industrial yarns: RITM presented the UT 50 machine for its flexibility and for the quality of yarn and package produced, as well as the UT 60 machine that gives more flexibility.
In the field of tire cord, the CP 06 and CP 10 machines are equipped with the open pot technology, allowing tremendous labor cost reduction.
(From left) Marty Wang, general manager of Sentimann Shanghai (agent of RITM in China); Gilles Antoine; T.H. Tsai, managing director of Sentimann Shanghai; and Monique Chomienne (second right) of RITM |
A number of systems were promoted for the manufacture of carpet yarns. The CDDT 10 features with a basic, robust and standard design with main spindle motors driven by inverters. It gives reliable spindle transmission with belts at a low maintenance cost. The CDDT 20, on the other hand, has the highest level of productivity, and is available with standard mechanical spindles.
A new concept of “environment friendly” machine, CDDT 30, was introduced to the Asian market at the fair. Equipped with motorized spindles, it provides integration of full air circulation thus saving air conditioning costs, as well as spindle speed monitoring, Mr Antoine mentioned.
Moreover, the Wool Touch was presented by RITM to boost the spun yarn effect in combination with or without its “Three-Ply” kit for new yarn engineering.
Santoni emphasizes strength in fashion and technology
Santoni SpA of the Lonati Group exhibited a full range of seamless knitting machines (Santoni and Sanglacomo brands), including both single and double jersey models in various diameters and gauges to cover a complete range of applications, such as underwear, outerwear, sportswear, active wear, swimwear, and prêt-a-porter.
At Santoni’s large booth of more than 650 square meters: Lorenzo Favardi, Fashion & Technology Department manager (left) and Gianfranco Bigazzi, area sales manager |
For the Vignoni brand, ultra-fine gauge circular knitting machinery was displayed, while for MecMor brand, a unique circular open variable panel garment machine TJ1800 model was exhibited with newly developed software.
Lorenzo Favardi, Fashion & Technology Department manager of Santoni, said that the company intended to promote the use of seamless technology in other areas apart from underwear, such as knitwear and sportswear.
He said sales situation in China was not affected by the downturn as much as other countries were due to China’s domestic demand.
As Santoni places emphasis on the combined strength of fashion design and advanced technoloogy, the company has a special school to hold training sessions for its customers’ technicians, so as to enable them to utilise the features of the machines.
The Fashion and Technology Department prepares its own collections and shows the customers what the machines can do for various designs. The customers can also design their own knitwear using Santoni’s software.
ITEMA Group emphasizes Italian design and production in China
Savio XCL automatic winder and Geminis S two-for-one twister were exhibited at the show by Savio, a member of ITEMA Group.
Assembled in China, Savio XCL is particularly designed for the local market to meet the high yarn quality demand together with high production output, reduced energy consumption, maintenance and investment. It represents the best optimized investment, the company described.
Fulvio Galetto from Savio |
The China-assembled Geminis S is available with four-spindle types and four-spindle gauges. Particular care is given to the spindle design and drive, in order to optimize the feeding weight and minimize the energy consumption. Yarn path geometry and relevant parts are polished to ensure high yarn quality; pneumatic threading (standard feature) and the removable balloon basket make Geminis S a flexible machine.
Additionally, the made-in-Italy Polar automatic winder was introduced to the Asian market, featuring a new cradle geometry, premium package quality, a flexible cycle, the computer aided tension (C.A.T.), the computer aided density (C.A.D.) and the computer aided metering (C.A.M.).
Fabio Mario Mazzucchetti, vice president sales, weaving machine division (left) and Rino Morani, member of the board of Itema Spinning |
Positive signs were observed in the China market, which was the first to move. Other countries in Asia might follow in a few months, and it was expected that 2010 would get better, said Fulvio Galetto, Regional Sales Manager of Savio.
Fabio Mario Mazzucchetti, vice president sales, weaving machine division of the ITEMA Group, said the group took part in the show to be present in the market and to try to get the biggest share. He said that the weaving field had been suffering, but weavers in China were less affected, with a growing internal demand. “Guangdong is moving pretty well for cotton fibre, but synthetic weaving is not moving because the industry has been booming in recent years and is now levelling off.”
Schneider Electric Sives tailor-made solutions
Schneider Electric provides tailor-made and comprehensive solutions so an optimum answer to all specific needs of their clients, said Wu Yue, Customer Specialist, OEM Customer & Segment Marketing Department, Industry BU of Schneider Electric.
“Textile workshop is often hot and humid. In a workshop installed with Schneider Electric’s air-conditioning system, however, workers are able to enjoy a more comfortable working environment, while the machines used encounter with fewer failures. Yarn and fabric quality will be improved under a stable and constant air condition. Such system is common in developed areas, although it is relatively a new thing for markets in Asia,” said Mr Wu.
SDL Atlas helps Chinese players go global
China’s textile and apparel enterprises as a whole are in the young stage though they have progressed substantially in product quality management and have established some internal testing labs and R&D centers, commented Kevin Peng, business manager at the Beijing office of SDL Atlas.
Kevin Peng at SDL Atlas |
He suggested that Chinese players need to gain a deeper understanding in quality assurance and total quality management. More of them are now developing their own products with newly engineered functionality. Testers from SDL Atlas such as the Moisture Management Tester (MMT) serve as a helping hand to these Chinese emerging innovators.
Moreover, the company is ready to offer its experience and extensive information of international standards in North America and Europe, as well as those from professional bodies such as AATCC, Mr Peng explained.
Shima Seiki: something new to survive downturn and prepare for rebound
Shima Seiki exhibited its line of advanced computerized flat knitting machines. A cross-section of its technology, ranging from SSG- and SIG- series conventional shaping machines to its latest Mach2-series high-spec WholeGarment knitting machines, was included.
The latest offering, Mach2X, is an advanced computerized flat knitting machine with outstanding speed and productivity, and can handle a maximum knitting speed of 1.6m/sec.
As mainstream production turned sluggish for many knitters in China as a result of the slowed economy, Shima Seiki believes the alternative solutions offered can arouse new interests in the market.
Knitters who are keen to build their own brands can produce higher value and fashionable knitwear, using Shima Seiki’s design systems, SDS-One Apex and SDS-One. The former is capable of 3D design and simulation for even more accurate evaluation of designs without the need for costly, time-consuming sample making.
Moreover, MACH2X and MACH2S are fast machines for high productivity of wholegarments. Following the introduction of the machines in last year’s ITMA Asia + Citme show, they have become the focus of Shima Seiki’s exhibits in this year’s Shanghaitex.
Masaki Karasuno of Shima Seiki |
Masaki Karasuno of Shima Seiki’s planning division said: “The eventual recovery of the world economy will surely see a rebound of demand for knit production in China. An important factor that must be considered in such a situation is the shortage of manual labour. Shima Seiki’s pioneering effort in wholegarment knitting pays off as the ideal solution by eliminating the need for labour-intensive sewing and linking processes.”
He said that customers were looking for new things to survive. “Many are very interested in these new products. Had there not been a downturn, they would have stayed with the same machines.”
Stalam maintains good business in adverse environment
Established in 1978 in Italy, Stalam specializes in the manufacture of radio-frequency (RF)-driven equipment for textile applications such as drying of textile fibres and yarns, nonwovens and technical textiles. The company’s sales of this kind of equipment are top in the world, stated by Dr Enrico Zanetti, Managing Director of Stalam.
The company stepped up the expansion to China in 2005 with the establishment of a joint venture - Stalam (Shanghai) Deyi Machinery Manufacturing Co Ltd.
On display were the RF dryer, yarn package hydro-extractor, package winder and package dyeing machine, manufactured in China, which represented the complete service to Chinese yarn dye houses.
Dr Enrico Zanetti (left), and Stalam’s Chinese partner, Siu Chun-lam, managing director of Gofront Holding |
While the company has not been immune to the impact of the global financial crisis and the associated recession, Dr Zanetti described the business in China remained good for Stalam. He noted: “We do not feel strongly the impact of the world crisis. The China market did drop but the extent was smaller than the worldwide market. A good recovery was noticed early this May, and I have a feeling that the worst is past.”
He believed getting well prepared for the future economic rebound is essential. “Investment and product development at Stalam continues in our company, which is the right approach to the market in the long run,” he said, adding that sector diversification and production specialization are the two directions in the period ahead.
Geographically, the company targets Asia (e.g. China, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and Indonesia), Europe, and Central and South America (e.g. Argentina, Chile, Ecuador, Mexico and Peru).
Steiger to assemble more machines in China
Steiger showed for the first time at the fair the new Gemini 2.130 GMF flat-knitting machine, with pneumatic cam control for high density knitting gauge E 12 to E 16, according to Carlo M.Corradi, Sales Director of Steiger. Steiger is a member of ITEMA Knitting.
This Swiss-engineered machine is assembled in China, and this allows Chinese users to purpose it in local currency.
“We had good experience in China starting with a Gemini model, and now GMF and Libra models are assembled in the country,” he said.
Carlo M.Corradi with Gemini 2.130 GMF flat-knitting machine of Steiger |
Assembled at the Chinese factory starting 2009, Libra 3.130 is the first compact flat-knitter with motorized yarn feeders. It is also a flexible machine suitable for various types of knitting techniques. Motorised yarn-carriers also allow a shorter time of carriage reversal.
In addition, Aries.3 is a top model for intarsia knitting, Mr Corradi continued. Due to the construction of the open carriage, the yarn fed directly from the top without tension could guarantee smooth knitting even with most delicate yarn. The motorized and synchronized yarn carries also offer great user flexibility to enhance productivity. A new option of “FAST” was introduced to the Aries.3 to increase knitting speed up to 15%-20%.
Market-wise, Mr Corradi had an improved projection for the second half of 2009, compared to that in the first half. Manufacturing activities of the knitting industry will be aniticipated in 2010 in China and southeastern Asia.
More training has been given to Asian engineers in Switzerland in these few years to bring them to a higher level of skills and independency.
Highly productive Stoll flat knitting machines novelties on display
Stoll presented the novel HP (high productivity) machines for some models of CMS machine range, offering a higher productivity of up to 14%, depending on gauge and several pattern parameters, Gerhard Berger, Head of Marketing of Stoll, told ATA Journal.
Another new model exhibited was CMS 502 and CMS 502 multi gauge, which Mr Berger depicted as an entry model into Stoll’s compact and multi gauge class, offering an interesting price-performance ratio.
Flexibility is the highlight of Stoll’s multi-gauge machine system — allowing users to knit with varied gauges and fineness of yarns on one machine for different applications and seasons. They can utilize the machine to full capacity by knitting assorted products throughout the year, thus lowering the averaged cost per working hour.
Gerhard Berger in front of Stoll CMS 530 HP machine |
Currently, about 85% of Stoll’s business originates from Asia, including Bangladesh, China, Hong Kong, India and Korea.
Due to the world financial crisis, China’s export market has been under pressure, but the negative impact has been partially offset by the strong domestic market. A large quantity of knitted garments was sold locally, according to Mr Berger.
Secondly, hand flat-knitting machines commonly used in China have been progressively replaced with electronic machines, which are available with Stoll, for instance. This on-going shift to the use of electronic flat knitting machines adds fuel to the Chinese knitting segment.
As flat knitting is often the last segment hit by external economic factors, he estimated that 2009 is okay compared to a relatively good 2008. Further improvements might be seen by mid 2010.
He attributed the very high satisfactory performance of Stoll in China market due to its local partner, Chemtax Industrials, which is familiar with Chinese market demands. In the meantime, Stoll provides also training services and own pattern collections to assist users in fashionable innovation of knitwear by means of an own subsidiary, the Stoll Fashion&Technology Centre Shanghai. With these efforts of know-how transfer, the Stoll’s pattern and technology is well received in the region, Mr Berger concluded.
Stork Prints pioneers in high-tech printing and direct laser engraving
Besides rotary screen printing, Stork Prints also demonstrated its edges in direct laser engraving and digital printing.
(From left) Joost Smits, managing director textile and operations; Ronald Meuffels, account manager; and Kevin Yao, managing director – China |
The latest ecoLEX has been specifically launched for the Asian markets. Introduced at ITMA Asia last year, it integrates the advantages of optical exposure of a screen with those of the digital laser technology, utilizing existing lacquer systems and developing equipment. “Differentiation is the key to surviving, the products must be of high quality with added value,” said Joost Smits, Managing Director, Textile and Operations.
While China is the biggest market in Asia for high-tech printing, India also presents good opportunities. Both countries have seen a lot of investments in textile printing in recent years, according to Mr Smits.
Kevin Yao, Managing Director of Stork Prints in China, added that with China’s economic stimulus plan in place, the potential of the China market looked even more promising.
Tanatex helps save money with advanced finishes and simpler process
“Quality-oriented products that are made environmentally friendly will have better possibilities in future to survive, whilst price-driven products are likely to face greater pressure,” said Rainer Tostmann, General Manager, Asia Pacific, Tanatex Chemicals.
He commented that the business landscape will look different in the Asian textile and garment industry as the proportion of exports gets smaller and domestic markets are gaining importance. Notably, local markets are more often demanding higher quality than years ago. Intra-Asia garment business is likely to climb up, making competition even more intense. Consequently, cost control will be more crucial to Asian dye houses in coming years.
Rainer Tostmann (right), and Allen Lai, marketing director (Asia Pacific) of Tanatex Chemicals |
Against the background, the company provides solutions that simplify the dyeing process with Tannex Noveco mineral-based auxiliaries for textile processing; Tannex Simplex bleaching stabilizer for cold pad-batch and pad steam bleaching with hydrogen peroxide; and the LOGIC Dyeing Concept, which stands for less water and energy, one-bath, greige dyeing, isothermal and cellulosics.
Tanatex Chemicals also seeks to supply innovative, multi-purposed products for factory users to achieve quality effects with fewer items, which are also compatible with international safety standards in China, Japan, Americas and Europe. Moreover, these products are able to achieve the effects in shorter process time, reducing both costs and production time. In other words, it allows users to produce more in a given period of time and take up extra capacity left by the closed-down dye houses in Asia.
Another dimension of Tanatex Chemicals’ product development lies in the improvement of finishing products to help users manufacture differentiated end-user products, such as Baypret Nano-PU, Bayscent, Edolan and Easy Stretch.
Mr Tostmann explained that the nano material-based Baypret Nano-PU offers an extensive range of possibilities from stain release, color retention (e.g. on shirt collar), anti-pilling to OBA fastness improvement.
In five to eight years, he added, the total cost of using water (including wastewater treatment) might be substantially higher in China, making water-saving efforts a strategic move for corporations. “If you start step-by-step early, you can save money now, and the cost-saving will be even higher when the cost of using water rise in next few years. This is also an experience which we made when East Europe moved more and more ‘west’,” he concluded.
Korean TNS presents new servo system
TNS Raschel Servo (TRS) system is the new development of TNS from Korea. The product helps upgrade current model-chain raschel machines into electronically controlled up to 42 bars by servo type controller. Automatic gauge adjustment is available on the program and gauge compatibility is made possible. A wider variety of lace design patterns can be applied on the upgraded system at a higher accuracy level.
Trützschler expands to Chinese medium segment
As textile machinery builders are increasingly directing their gaze to the Asian markets, Trützschler introduced a number of new machinery to users in the region.
The latest Card TC5-1 was on display, featuring compact in size and lower energy consumption due to a new drive design. With stable quality and a good price-performance ratio, this model is offered at a competitive price among international machine builders, said Harald Schoepp, General Manager of Trützschler (Shanghai).
Assembled in Qingpu (青浦), Shanghai, with some local parts, the Card TC5-1 is manufactured with the same quality requirements in Germany, so as the design and research and development efforts made with it.
Harald Schoepp of Trützschler (Shanghai) |
Another highlight was the new foreign part separator, Securoprop SP-FP, which contains the full functionality of the Securomat, but also has a module for polypropylene and foil detection, plus a new module for the selective separation of light and transparent foreign parts with minimum fibre loss.
“Holding a leading position in the field of carding machinery and other areas, we will grow the business further through the penetration into the medium segment in China, as well as the Asian region, including Vietnam and India. With Trützschler Card Clothing, we will also seek to increase the market share in wire card clothing, an important part for carding that is expected to have a good future in China,” noted Mr Schoepp.
Market-wise, he observed the market pick-ups in the last two months and was surprised to meet a larger-than-expected visitor flow at this year’s Shanghaitex fair, including decision-makers who showed interests of machines on show.
He predicted that positive signs would continue in the reminder of the year and the business might further return in 2010.
Uster develops exclusive systems for the East
Despite drops in current year’s sales in China, Uster is optimistic with future potential of the China market, Dr Wei Nai-ming (韋乃銘) commented, who is Executive Vice President and Head of Operations Asia of Uster Technologies AG.
On display was the Uster MN100, an individual nep process control system at an affordable price. Developed exclusively for the Chinese market and based on the Uster AFIS, this new system offers a number of nep measurement advantages. It eliminates variability and wasted time inherent in the manual counting of neps, and produces data comparable to the Uster Statistics.
A new generation of Uster’s autoleveling system for draw frames, Uster Sliverguard Pro, was also presented.
Uster acquired the product range of Zweigle this May to complement and strengthen its position in yarn testing and certification. In China, a number of training programs were organized in the first half this year to cotton spinning firms and assistance was provided to optimize their operations, Dr Wei added.
X-Rite aspires to providing one-stop solutions
“After successful acquisitions of GretagMacbeth in 2006 and Pantone in 2007, X-Rite has gained a leading position in global color technology, where the company engages itself in development, manufacture and marketing of innovative color management solutions that consist of color measurement system, related software, standardized color systems and services,” according to Nancy Sun, Segment Application Specialist, OEM Customer & Segment Marketing Department, Industry BU of X-Rite.
At the fair, X-Rite demonstrated the latest ColorMunki Design system, which assists manufacturers and designers to realize their colorful inspiration into real products, according to Michael Wu Business Manager at the textile division of X-Rite Asia Pacific Limited (Shanghai office).
An elaboration of Shanghaitex 2009’s Chinese exhibitors highlighting their latest development and market potentials is covered in the column of “China Focus” on page 67.
Snapshots of the fairground
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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