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| Issue date:14/10/2009 |
| ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Oct 2009 Issue |
| Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel |
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| Denim, often a rugged cotton twill textile, continues to flourish in today's consumer market with endless efforts in the aspects of design, fabrics, dyeing and finishing, as well as marketing and branding, Lucia Carpio writes |
Nothing can be more American than faded blue jeans. If designer Ralph Lauren’s recent showing of his Spring / Summer 2010 is anything to go by, denim is set to remain strong for the coming season.
American jeans brands are returning to their roots. As Polo Ralph Lauren is relaunching its Polo Jeans brand, Gap is celebrating its 40 years with a relaunch of its upmarket denim line 1969 Premium Jeans. While Levi’s (founded in 1853) is sticking to its classic American style, rooting its Red Tab brand to its heritage youthful and vintage collegiate looks, Hilfiger Denim is also delving into its archives for 1960s American and vintage inspired clothing.
According to a recent survey by the Cotton Incorporated on consumer’s habits, 77% of US consumers own at least seven pairs of denim jeans. “Consumers prefer denim because it is durable, versatile, and really takes on the personality of the wearer,” said Norma Keyes, Director, Product Standards.
Bart Van De Woestyne, Group Chief Marketing Officer of UCO Raymond, said trends are now led by brands originated from Los Angeles such as Current Elliot, a new successful brand that has popularised the Boyfriend jeans for women, resembling men’s jeans with wider waist and much looser fits, giving the impression that the girl has borrowed it from her boyfriend’s wardrobe. UCO Raymond is a joint venture between UCO NV of Belgium and Raymond Ltd, India’s textile and apparel manufacturer, which supplies to many international retailers and brands.
Levi’s SS10 lifestyle jeans fashion |
The current upwardly ride of denim is an international phenomenon experienced not only in the US.
UK jeans market to top £2 billion by 2012
Market research firm Mintel in a recent study predicts that the British jeans market alone will be worth over £2 billion by 2012. However, with the entrance of value retailers and supermarkets into the jeans arena, the jeans-buying public can spend less per pair while some purchasers will buy less frequently but invest in a more expensive pair when they do spend, according to Mintel analyst Katrin Magnussen. “I’ve seen jeans even on the red carpet as it’s become more acceptable as a dressing-up item,” said Ms Magnussen.
Denim Wall in Selfridges’ London store |
UK’s leading department store, Selfridges, reported a 50% increase in sales of designer jeans this year, with average single denim spent at its highest for over a decade at £185 a pair. It is marking the denim revival by unveiling “the world’s largest denim wall” at its London Oxford Street store. The wall measures 30 metres long and houses over 2,000 pairs of jeans.
Selfridges’ Director of Womenswear and Childrenswear, Anita Barr, said: “The recession has seen the need to power dress slip a little, and we’re seeing customers who would normally buy a suit, snap up a pair of designer denim instead. We’ve bought 20% more designer jeans for Autumn/Winter 2009 as we believe the sales drive can only grow.”
Middle market retail chain, Marks & Spencer, launched a new label called Indigo Collection where denim is essential, whether used in jeans, dresses, skirts or jackets, according to Kate Bostock, M&S executive director of clothing & home. NEXT also relaunched its online jeans shop offering different fits and cuts.
At Arcadia Group’s Topman, jeans are selling well too. Design director Gordon Richardson said, “A skinny fit in various forms is the prevailing trend, whether it be an extreme spray on stretch or a more twisted and coated style. Rips and paler washes are ones to watch particularly for next Spring / Summer.”
London designer, Chloe Lonsdale of MiH (Made in Heaven) Jeans, said that jeans remain popular because it is “the only item in one’s wardrobe that gets better with age.”
Many global premium brands are adding more value through design, inventive colour and finishes to distinguish themselves from high street offerings. “My MiH brand also offers a luxury version of jeans with such attention to detail and finishing that they can be worn in place of traditional tailored clothing,” said Ms Lonsdale.
Brazilian denim manufacturer Vicunha, working with H&M, Inditex, Tommy Hilfiger and Diesel, is promoting new indigo with a redcast as one of its new directions for fall 2010/11, according to managing director, Thomas Dislich at Première Vision in Paris.
“Deep blue indigo colours remain important, with a characteristic red cast effect. Such fabrics have a strong position because the slim tight-fitting cuts will remain part of the fashionable core. Other new looks include laser effects and 3D-contrasts look,” said Mr Dislich. He added that in difficult economic times, the rebellious “break-free” spirit is making a come-back, and vintage looks continue to reign, along with slub yarns and multi-layer finishes, with new grey and greenish over dyes and coatings, dirty washes with rusty effects complete the range of complex fabrics.
Manufacturers such as UCO Raymond confirm that “super fitted” looks with “power-stretch” will be a major driving trend.
At the Denim by Première Vision fair in June, Dow Fiber Solutions introduced Dow XLA “Re:FLRX4” a premium multi-dimensional stretch denim with four-way flexibility. Holiday Watson, Global Brand Communications Manager for Dow Fiber, said the elastic and high-performance olefin denim ensures long-lasting shapes, withstanding high temperatures and aggressive chemical treatments. New iconic Paige Premium Denim is one of the latest US brands using Dow XLA in its exclusive “Paigeaholic” jean retailed at US$198.
Eco-friendlier denim begins with fiber source
Nicolas Rouillon, Lenzing’s merchandising manager for France & Benelux, said the skinny jeans look, for both men and women, need to be soft to the skin, and by adding Tencel to denim or cotton, especially in the weft in minimal content of 10-15% means the back side of the fabric touching the skin can be smooth and soft.
“Tencel is also eco-label certified, when only 25% is blended into denim fabrics – organic or transitional cotton plus recycled cotton, the consumption of water can be reduced by over 20%. It is also a performance fibre, as it absorbs excess liquid and quickly releases it again into the atmosphere,” said Mr Rouillon.
Many jeans brands are using Supima for softness and durability, for better dye penetration and lighter weight, according to Marc A. Lewkowitz, Supima’s Executive Vice President for Phoenix, Arizona (the US). He said Suprima is a desert plant grown in the US and is an extra long staple fibre, 35% longer than regular cotton that gives softness and lustre, making it a stronger and resilient fibre yet light-weight, absorbs and retains colour better than conventional cotton.
At Première Vision in Paris this September, Hong Kong denim and cotton company, Central Fabrics, showcased Supima and Lycra T400 for the premium market. Marketing manager, Mina A. Rea, said Central deals with all kinds of developments and owns their own denim mill producing for the American, European and Asian markets. “While we use Tencel in blends for drape, Supima adds softness, yet it is more structured, light yet with bulk, clean-looking and has a natural shine, thus perfect also for shirting. Supima is more absorbing therefore uses less dyestuff,” she said.
Participating at Première Vision this year for the first time was A& A Textile from Taiwan. Representative Dollen Yao said the company offers fancy denim with PU coating to create patterns, different effects for pre and after wash, PU coating with stretch, flocking with stretch, at prices from 2-3 euros for basic denim to 4 euros per metre. “We work with many international brands. Customers want denim that are lighter so we use Tencel and Modal for much better hand feel and softness. They are also interested in eco-friendly denim, organic cotton with Tencel (20% or less) and linen/cotton blends, with stretch (20% Lycra) or without stretch,” said Mr Yao.
Manuel Ramirez, Cotton Incorporated’s Manager of Product Development, Global Product Supply Chain, said new developments currently in progress to drive denim forward provide performance, such as the Storm Denim finish that is water-repellent without sacrificing any of cotton’s natural breatheability or durability. Applied at the final step, it ensures that any wash or stylistic treatment previously applied is unaffected, said Mr Ramirez.
A new technology as a reaction against the vintage worn-look is the Stay Rigid technology – to make denim feel and look rigid longer lasting 25 washes, keeping it rigid as a choice, looking clean rather than vintage, and going back to roots, said Mr Ramirez.
In addition, some of the newest luxury denim developments emerged from Japan as shown at Première Vision in Paris in September.
Japanese premium fabrics shown in Paris
Jeans from Vicunha (left), and men’s jacket made with Kuroki’s new double-face blanket denim |
From Kuroki, President Tatsushi Kuroki showcased a double-face blanket denim in 100% cotton that was shortlisted for the PV Awards. Mr Kuroki said their other new developments included organic cotton in natural indigo dye of 8-10 ounce and extra lightweight 100% cotton of 4.9 ounce. Luxury items included selvedge (self-finished edges) denim with stretch, yarn-dyed selvage denim and a special range of Morphotex with light-reflecting effects “like wings of a butterfly” at 30 euros per metres with weft in silver, gold or copper metallic yarns, utilising a Japanese fabric technology for the Obi belt of Kimonos produced in Kyoto.
And it was Showa of Japan that won the Handle Prize at Première Vision this year with a luxury denim made of 100% wool. Owned and designed by Emiko Katayama, Showa’s new denim range includes organic denim range made with Tasmania organic wool twills and selvage denim in bio-stone, as well as cotton/linen blends.
Being sustainable and promoting responsible production are the latest concerns for consumers and those involved in denim making.
Italian design duo, Le Jean de Marithe and Francois Girbaud, showcased recently their latest “Wattwash” (water free denim), demonstrating low energy/low water organic cotton denim. Italdenim and New Dimension, a new Dutch company, has devised a collection of organic suiting for the mainstream menswear market.
Storm Denim and Stretch Denim from Cotton Incorporated (left), and denim fabrics with prints, coating and flocking effects from A&A Textiles |
Genencor, a division of Danisco A/S, recently launched its new technology for more sustainable denim bleaching and shading, PrimaGreen EcoFade LT100. Glenn Nedwin, Executive Vice President of Genencor’s Technical Enzyme Business Unit, said the new technology textile processors can save up to 90% of heating energy used today in denim bleaching and provides savings in rinsing water and neutralization chemicals.
Spanish manufacturer, Textil Santanderina, uses Sandye, which is a textile solution based on a highly eco-friendly dyeing process for fading effects; and a Duosandye finish as the result of the application of a fadable print to a Sandye base, taking on a two-colour look that gives depth and highlights the structure without damaging fibres.
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Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Credit goes to Adsale Industry Portal when used.
We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprint any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiries, please contact the Editorial Department. |
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