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| Issue date:01/10/2009 |
| ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Oct 2009 Issue |
| Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel |
| by Staff Reporters |
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| Comparing to other textile sectors, knitting is considered an area less hit by the current economic recession. Industry players observe that middle to premium knitted fabrics in the China market may be an area for optimism |
Knitwear products have got more popular among the large population of Chinese consumers, thanks to the increasing number of the affluent households in the country over the past few years. Amid a weak export environment, more textile and apparel manufacturers now target the China market in a bid to compensate the decreased orders from Europe and North America.
Industry players at the Shanghaitex 2009 textile machinery exhibition this June mentioned that weak exports of the Chinese knit goods are partially offset by the domestic sales. The shift of hand-driven machines to electronic flat-knitting machines in the country is also a positive trend. Moreover, a number of Asian users showed interest in higher end systems for the manufacture of premium knitted fabrics, according to business manager of Tayu Knitting Machinery, Frank Shao, at the fair.
Impact felt by retailers in US and Europe
Retail markets of major advanced economies are, however, more affected by the financial turmoil, altering the market environment of knits suppliers around the world.
On the European continent, Italy has been a major country showing signs of a return to production, observed Shima Seiki, a Japanese flat knitting supplier.
In the quarterly report covering from April to June this year, Shima Seiki expected a growing demand for its latest MACH2 system as Italy is a market sensitive to color and creative design. The MACH2 system is said to be capable of producing premium, high-value-added knits in quick response.
In general, the European market polarizes into high-end and mass-market products. High-end items are more often produced within Europe, mainly in Italy, as well as Eastern Europe for lower production costs. The market of mass products, on the other hand, is largely shared by makers in less developed countries across Asia and other parts of the globe.
The United States, the world’s largest knitwear market with an estimated sales of more than one billion units, had been hard hit by the global financial crisis. Though economists believed that the US economy had passed the worst days, consumers became more reserved in spending.
Knitting machinery building is increasingly interwoven with fashion trends(Photo: 2010-11 knit style presented by Shima Seiki) |
In view of the current export market environment, knitting machinery builders have developed and improved their technologies to better suit today’s market needs in terms of quality, price and performance.
An upgrade from manual systems to computerized knitting machines is being promoted to reduce labor costs and improve quality.
Moreover, machines capable of making seamless apparel, hosiery and more are gaining popularity.
With the introduction of Karl Mayer DJ 4/2 (EL) system, users can manufacture seamless articles such as pantyhose, underwear and sportswear. Karl Mayer sees a huge potential in the market for seamless products and it is consolidating and extending its expertise in this area, as well as stepping up its research efforts in the field.
Santoni is another established textile machine builder in the area of seamless wear, whose clients include Adidas, Marks & Spencer, Tommy Hilfiger and Victoria’s Secret.
In the meantime, Stoll has launched a number of models with an emphasis on the high productivity. Design is another crucial element in the knitting industry, and Stoll regularly publishes its trend collections for users and set up the 15,000-square feet Stoll Fashion & Technology showroom in New York of the US this April to offer services such as prototype sampling, yarn sourcing and trends information.
In the field of circular knitting machinery, Mayer & Cie and more machinery builders develop systems to accommodate various market segments, such as the manufacture of mattress fabrics.
The TY-S32-GT machine of Tayu |
On the other hand, Asian knitting machine suppliers are advancing themselves with research efforts and imported parts and components. For instance, a new high-speed four-track single jersey knitting machine from Tayu Knitting Machinery (TY-S32-GT model) adopts the core knitting part provided by Groz-Beckert KG. The new system produces knit fabric in single jersey, in two or four needle structures and in plated single jersey, according to Tayu Knitting Machinery based in Taiwan. In addition to manufacturing various weight ranges in the apparel sector, the new system can be reset for three-thread fleece production. A high output of 35 rpm with a 30-inch diameter is offered, the company says.
In future, changing end-user knitwear market demands will continue directing the development of machinery. Shima Seiki, for example, is developing an innovative business model, Ordermade, to contribute to the spread of its WholeGarment systems. The company explains that it helps facilitate speedy production of original seamless knitwear in-store.
Suppliers in the knitting field
Double-faced articles with new Comez machine
Comez, a supplier of advanced narrow fabric technology from Italy, launched a new electronic double needle bed warp knitting machine for the manufacture of a wide range of articles. With two needle beds and the pattern guide bars, it is possible to obtain double-face articles, with identical structure and specifications on both sides.
Possible application areas include technical uses (netting for sports equipment, high resistance ribbons in special fibres, ribbons and fabrics for applications in the geo-textile, automotive, building and industrial sectors); medical uses (e.g. emergency bandages and dressings, disposable underwear); and women’s apparel (mesh stockings and pantyhose) and fashion fabrics.
The new Comez DNB-EL 1270 system
Spacer fabrics | |
This new Comez DNB/EL-1270 features a 1270 mm working width, comes in several gauges from 5 to 18 n.p.i., uses individual latch needles and can work any type of yarn. It is equipped with 12 pattern guide bars, with electronic control, and knockover sinker groups can be supplied on request.
It is also fitted with a new Data Control Controller to manage machine functions, monitors production data and allows for the realisation of lengthy pattern repeats.
With regard to technical articles, one of the most interesting possibilities is that of the so-called spacer fabrics which basically comprise two distinct fabrics, constituting the two faces of the whole (and can be presenting different appearances), connected by woven threads of a special consistency, so that the two faces are kept at a certain distance by connecting threads. Structures obtained using this process feature high voluminosity, and good elasticity to pressure (due to pressure absorption effect). The electronic programming allows articles with alternating three-dimensional and flat areas to be made easily, the company explains.
Additionally, the company offers Chinese users prompt services and spare parts supply from Guangzhou Comez Textile Machinery Manufacturing situated in Panyu city, Guangdong province.
Groz-Beckert cylinders ensure maximum precision
High-grade Groz-Beckert circular knitting cylinders provide complement to the company’s premium range of needles and system parts to create an ideal knitting system from a single, reliable supplier. The company explains the use of quality cylinders and components helps ensure durability of circular knitting machines and allow them to reach full potential for high-performance operation on the factory floor.
Groz-Beckert circular knitting cylinder |
Groz-Beckert KG also emphasizes the high precision of individual elements to simplify the workflow and improve capacity utilization in production.
A selection of 60,000 knitting cylinders and around 50,000 different needles and system parts for the manufacture of textile surfaces are offered. Standard cylinder diameters of 7-60 inches. With needles available in thicknesses from 0.21 mm in gauge E68 knitting cylinders, Groz-Beckert KG provides machine constructors and users the widest product spectrum.
Seamless wear made on Karl Mayer’s latest system
The newly launched 44-inch DJ 4/2 (EL) system is Karl Mayer’s latest narrow, double-bar raschel machine, which can manufacture seamless articles from pantyhose and stockings to underwear and sportswear.
Fashionable apparel made on the DJ series (photo by Jean-Luc Valentin) |
Unveiled at the Shanghaitex 2009 trade fair this June in Shanghai, the new system provides a satisfactory price/performance ratio. It is available in gauges E 24 and E 28 with more ground guide bars, and can be fitted with electronic guide bar drive (EL). These features have extended the range of patterns that can be produced and the machine’s flexibility, according to Karl Mayer.
The EL system enables patterning to be carried out with a high degree of flexibility, and small batches can be processed efficiently. This simplifies the processes involved in product development. Large repeats can also be worked, enabling new products to be produced, for instance, cycling shorts with integrated body and leg openings.
Moreover, a jacquard system with two jacquard guide bars, piezo technology for control of the jacquard needles, the Kamcos system with Multi-Speed facility and electronic beam drives enable the user to produce high-quality, jacquard-patterned, seamless clothing or garment with fewer seams efficiently on one machine.
Mayer & Cie high-gauge machines suit niche market
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Silk-like elastic fabrics can be made on Mayer & Cie’s IG 3.2 QC system |
Two circular knitting machines of Mayer & Cie are able to produce silk-like elastic fabrics for niche segments including top-quality underwear, shirts, blouses and exclusive outerwear.
The MV4-3.2 II is the specialist in the single jersey range up to gauge E 60. Ultra-fine fabrics in the double jersey range up to gauge E 50 are produced on the IG 3.2 QC interlock machine which offers the benefit of Quick-Change technology for fast gauge conversion.
The MV 4-3.2 II offers gauges of E 44 and upward, featuring a new CONI++ feeder and temperature control and additional sinker cam. In addition, feeders no longer need to be reset and press-off reliability is increased, particularly when working with lightweight fabrics.
The flexible IG 3.2 QC provides a wide range of knitted constructions on an interlock basis. Synchronous and delayed timing can also be regulated using exchange cams to produce a wide spectrum from loose to extremely tight-knit fabrics. It is capable of producing fabrics from both cotton and synthetic yarns at high output rates, benefiting from a needle shape and positive needle guidance geared specifically to high-performance operation, the company says.
Organ Needle specializes in needles
Organ Needle from Japan specializes in the manufacture of needles used in the fields of sewing machines, knitting machines, felting and tufting. The company shares about 80% of the Japanese market and 15% of the international market, it says.
To cater for the diverse and higher market needs in the fashion and fiber sectors, the company has adopted a small-batch production of a wide range of products, which are characterized by high precision and durability. Organ Needle also works with various steel suppliers to develop materials for the manufacture of needles.
Varied seamless apparel made possible with Santoni
Santoni, a member of Lonati Group, provides an extensive range of textile machinery to meet today’s needs of clients around the world. The company says it meets 97% of the worldwide demand for seamless machines, whose use, make possible the development of a growing success diversified in various sectors of the garments market (underwear, sportswear, beachwear, outerwear, medical wear).
It markets the products across Europe, North and South America, as well as emergent markets like China, Turkey, India and Pakistan. The company opened a manufacturing facility in Shanghai industrial area two years ago.
Santoni currently offers 14 different models of electronic circular knitting machines for seamless wear. Its single jersey electronic circular knitting machine can produce seamless single garments, including underwear, outwear, swimwear, sportswear and sanitary garment.
Double knit electronical circular knitting machine for rib knitting fabric for underwear, as well as for outwear, beachwear, sportswear and sanitary wear are offered by Santoni. The fabrics produced can be in continuous tubular fabric or separated pieces.
Additionally, the company in recent times has introduced electronic warp knitting machines for seamless garments.
Shima Seiki unveils MACH2X system
The MACH2X, an advanced computerized flat knitting machine, is the latest offering from Shima Seiki.
A WholeGarment specialty machine that features four needle beds and Shima Seiki’s original SlideNeedle, the new system can knit beautifully shaped, high-quality WholeGarment knitwear, which conform well to the body for improved fit and comfort and an elegant silhouette.
What sets the MACH2X apart is its speed and productivity, the company says.
MACH2X of Shima Seiki |
Maximum knitting speed is increased to 1.6m/sec. Moreover, the new R2Carriage system permits quicker carriage returns for higher efficiency per knitted course. New Split Stitch technique furthermore allows efficient knitting by eliminating empty courses. Additionally, on the 15L gauge machine a special large-hook version of the SlideNeedle is used for knitting 12-gauge fabrics at 15-gauge needle pitch for higher productivity. These improvements combine to yield more than twice as much productivity than before.
With this increase in productivity, Shima Seiki provides WholeGarment production supporting China’s manufacturing base.
Stoll underscores highly productive knitting machines
Stoll offers several models of the CMS machine range, bearing “HP” in their machine designation to indicate its characteristics of high productivity. Productivity of these systems increases up to 14% depending on parameters and gauge. Besides faster carriage reversal and higher carriage speed, there are shorter knitting systems that afford this increase, the company explains.
The fast carriage return with Stoll machines thanks to Power-RCR guarantees short knitting times, especially fabric pieces with a large amount of short strokes. The low overall height makes important machine elements easy to reach and a CMS an ergonomic workplace. Other practical details provide operating convenience, including the Stoll-touchcontrol and USB ports.
Due to the .2 gauges and Stoll-multi gauges, it is possible to partly realize different gauges on one and the same CMS without needle replacements or gauge conversions.
CMS 530 HP of Stoll |
Another Stoll upgrade is the new entry models named CMS 502 and CMS 502 multi gauge. They offer two knitting systems, 45-inch working width, take-down comb and cutting&clamping on the right hand side.
Additionally, Stoll provides practical accessories for various operational areas and machine applications. In the area of intarsia knitting, the machines are equipped with the so called intarsia kit enabling intarsia knitting with up to 32 optimized intarsia yarn carriers and optional 2x16 clamping and cutting points.
The company has also introduced a new yarn measuring device, Automatic stitch control (ASCON) and an upgraded pattern software M1plus.
Quanzhou Classic Precision highlights durability
Chinese suppliers are getting more active in the knitting machinery market. Quanzhou Classic Precision, a manufacturer built by a Taiwanese investor, supplies a range of circular knitting machinery used for the production of apparel, medical and technical textiles. The company has multiple patents registered in Taiwan and received the ISO9001:2000 International Quality System certification in 2002.
The size of knitting machinery being made ranges from 4-68 inches with up to 68 gauges. Major products of the company include single/double-side needle cylinders; single/double-side jacquard (computerized) needle cylinders; and needle cylinders to produce towels, apparel, seamless intimate wear and more. Made of quality materials, these equipments are durable. They are used by such industry players as Haitian, Youngor, Hongdou and Jifa, Quanzhou Classic Precision says.
Taifan Machinery promotes Chinese systems
The TF-D2F2 high-speed double-side knitting machine is a recent technological advancement of Taifan Machinery. The system is able to produce a variety of fabrics, including air-filled textiles, double-side pique and elastic fabrics. The needle cylinder diameter ranges between 16-35 inches.
Another recently developed single-side open width machine produces crease-free fabrics to minimize fabric wastage. This system works efficiently and reliably, with CAXA software (from a Beijing software supplier) and a computer numerical controlled (CNC) system, Taifan Machinery states. Furthermore, the TF-SML2 knitting machine is suitable for knitting different long and short staple fibers, as well as Lycra fabrics with additional accessories.
Besides, several knit finishing machines are introduced.
Improved benefits for knitted fabrics from Monforts
In optimizing its stenter ranges for knitted fabrics, Monforts introduced a number of benefits such as reduced wastage, including Toptex that improves shrinkage of knitted fabrics.
The newly improved pinning, glueing and trimming devices for knitted fabrics from Monforts offer a reduction in wastage by up to 60%. New optical sensors ensure that the knitted fabric is pinned as close to the fabric edge as possible reading 4,000 measurements per second even at the maximum machine speed, the company says.
Being a newly new redesigned compressive shrinkage sanforisor for knitted fabrics, Toptex offers increased residual shrinkage, higher production speeds, automatic grinding of the rubber blanket, reduced water consumption for cooling and substantial time savings for blanket changes.
Moreover, a new soft coating process suitable for many knitted fabrics provides energy savings with reduced liquor application. The new process, using trough and roller techniques, applies a required amount of liquid/coating to the fabric via contact with the roller Applications include nano coating, water repellency, softeners and pigment dyeing.
In view of the rising costs of heat energy, the company offers the Monformatic, a controlling tool for continuous drying, fixing or condensation processes.
Navis Global system controls knit finishing
Navis TubeTex Delta-Nit Pad can operate at 80 m/min with maximum water extraction and uniform chemical application without edge marking. The latest design incorporates stainless steel frame, stainless steel guards, and super-energy efficient motors/drive components. The newest option is the Constant Quality Control (CQC) System. The CQC mixes chemical applications on demand at the pad to conserve finishing products and to improve fabric quality. It is integrated into the Delta-Nit Pad control system for easy operation and minimal floor space. The system also measures the pad bath and automatically mixes the finishing chemicals to maintain the correct application set point to +/- 0.1%
In addition, Navis TubeTex Ultra-Nit Dryer is a productive and efficient system. The six-zone 3200mm dryer is capable of up to 65 tons per day of production. The latest design incorporates super-efficient oven panels and end closures, and super-energy efficient motors/drive components, according to Navis Global.
Navis TubeTex also offers a newly-developed, open width knit compactor TM-100, featuring a production speed of over 40 meter per minute and compaction over 25%.
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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