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| Issue date:01/10/2009 |
| ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Oct 2009 Issue |
| Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel |
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| Corporate workwear and performance apparel are among new areas being explored for wool, as demand from its traditional markets diminishes, Adrian Wilson writes |
The demand for wool, both as a signifier of quality in high-end men’s suits and haute couture women’s fashions, as well as the ultimate in luxury carpeting, appears to be at an all-time low.
World wool production continued its long-term downward trend in 2008, falling by another 3% to 1.16 million tonnes clean weight, the lowest level since the 1940s.
This was in part because disappointing Spring rain in southeast Australia, following a dry Winter and Autumn, took its toll on the national wool clip.
However, at the same time the wool used in apparel production in 2008 dipped 2.3% to about 560,000 tonnes, and wool used for carpets also fell 5.3% to approximately 480,000 tonnes, according to a recent report by textile machinery manufacturer, Oerlikon Textile.
Given the global recession, perhaps this was only to be expected. Wool prices for coarse crossbred wool, a heavy grade accounting for about 80% of New Zealand’s output, dropped to their lowest in 30 years as the slump in construction around the world eroded the demand for wool carpets in both new buildings and home renovations.
European closures
Having a notable impact on the European woollen industry in 2008 was the closure of the BWK Elders wool top production plants in Germany and Turkey.
The German plant in Bremen was a substantial wool topmaker and one of the last remaining large wool topmakers outside China. A topmaker takes different farm lots and blends them to meet specifications and price restraints placed on him by the combing mill.
The closure marks the end of 125 years of wool processing at BWK Germany. This means that in terms of volume, the relocation of the wool topmaaking industry to China has continued, with some remaining in other Asian countries and in Latin America, but only a few processors left in Europe.
About a third of all wool was processed at the spinning stage in Europe in 2000, with Italy being the second largest wool spinning country in the world, using 177,000 tonnes, a share of 12% of world use. By 2008 that had fallen by more than half to below 70,000 tonnes, and Italy’s spinning industry is now shifting away from Italy due to high labour costs, notably to Central Europe.
In addition, other world-famous companies in the wool business have discontinued operations in Australia and New Zealand.
Production shifts from Australia and New Zealand
The closure of Western Australia’s last wool washing plant, Jandakot Wool Washing, obliged leading wool fibres exporter, Michell, to reopen its own wool scouring plant in Adelaide.
Wool processor, Chargeurs New Zealand, closed the country’s last medium-grade wool mill. In addition, the New Zealand Commerce Commission has approved a restructuring proposal in respect of merging some wool scouring units and reducing overall capacity by about a third.
Things don’t look any better this year either. The Australian Wool Production Forecasting Committee (AWPFC) says that the country’s premium fibre continues to be in short supply as a result of poor rainfall across southeast Australia and lower than expected fleece weights.
“Even though there has been good rain in northern Australia and in Western Australia, fleece weights there have not been as good as expected,” said AWPFC chairman, Russell Pattinson. “The significant shift in the structure of the flock, with a greater proportion of ewes and lambs and a much smaller proportion of wethers, has meant that even in states where rainfall and seasonal conditions have been reasonable, fleece weights have remained below historical levels.”
Statistics on sheep numbers, slaughterings and live sheep exports, all point to a further reduction in the supply of Australian wool for this season, he added.
“Another contributing factor is the reduced use of fertiliser on pastures due to its significant price increase, which has reduced carrying capacity.
“The recent softer wool prices in comparison to continued good prices for sheep meat and lamb are causing growers to consider their options. However, from a positive perspective, Australian farmers are largely remaining with sheep and Merino ewes as the base of their operation.”
A recent survey, he said, found that 67% of Merino ewes will be mated to Merino rams this season, which will help the Australian wool industry recover — once seasonal conditions improve across Australia and wool prices pick up.
Production is forecast to fall in every state of Australia in 2008/09, with the smallest percentage declines compared with 2007/08 expected in Queensland and New South Wales, and the largest declines expected in South Australia and Tasmania.
New markets for wool
The push continues to find new markets for wool, beyond its traditional areas.
One of the latest introductions from Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) is the new Merino Perform range of extra-fine Merino performance fabrics designed for next-to-skin wear.
The natural qualities of Australian Merino – such as natural breathability and elasticity, odour resistance, sweat and moisture control and suitability for multi-climatic environments – mean that Merino Perform fabrics provide an unrivalled level of next-to-skin comfort for everyday, active and sports wear in all climates.
The Merino Perform programme is a global partnership with some of the world’s best circular knitters. Its supply chain currently includes market leading companies in Australia, China, Europe, Japan, Korea and Vietnam, with plans to expand this network as demand grows. The supply chain offers a selection of Merino Perform fabrics suitable for a diverse range of active and sports activities.
Merino Perform is produced in accordance with Woolmark standards ensuring high quality, fit-for-purpose and ultimate next-to-skin comfort.
Office wear offers business opportunities
Fine worsted wool and tailoring manufacturer C&J Antich and Sons, meanwhile, based in Huddersfield, UK, believes the corporate suitings market could be further exploited and has launched a new suit for the corporate market called Antec.
Antec machine washable suit of C&J Antich and Sons |
It is said to set a new benchmark for office wear as a result of its five key properties which produce a comfortable, cool, crease free, machine-washable suit.
Each Antec suit is distinguished by the following proprietary technologies:
• Flextec, enabling maximum comfort and support;
• Cooltec moisture-wicking technology;
• Climatec, which regulates body temperature;
• Creasetec, which improves the natural shedding of creases; and
• Washtec, employing specialised components and a machine-washable bag, making dry cleaning a thing of the past.
The British woollen and suitings market is admired by the world for its sartorial style, splendor, and elegance, but until recently it has not been linked with corporate wear.
C & J Antich says its new suit will out-perform other products in the corporate wear market, including on price.
Having supplied in excess of four million metres of Bengaline poly wool/Lycra to the corporate and retail market, C & J Antich has built up a considerable reputation, with customers including Marks & Spencer, Moss, John Lewis and British Airways.
“In Huddersfield, we know how to weave a quality piece of fabric, whether it’s for the fashion houses of London, Paris or Milan or the corporate and retail markets,” said company director Chris Antich. “We feel Antec is the new benchmark for the corporate and retail sector.”
New chrome-free dyes introduced
Improvements continue to be made to wool processing and one notable introduction is the Lanasol CE range chrome-free dyes by Huntsman Textile Effects.
Chrome dyes have traditionally been the standard for wool dyeing, but they are known to be hazardous since they require the handling of carcinogenic potassium dichromate by workers in the dyehouse and mistakes in dosing can cause serious environmental problems.
New Huntsman Lanasol Blacks reactive dyes have a high fixation and levelness |
Huntsman made a clear decision to move away from this outdated technique in response to the demands of a number of retailers banning the use of chrome dyes on their products.
Its alternative, Lanasol CE, displays very good fibre levelness and high fastness, including wet fastness, as well as excellent reproducibility.
In addition, the dyes ensure that the wool fibre is fully preserved and leave the finished article with a fresh fee. The range is designed for the exhaust dyeing of untreated, chlorinated and machine-washable wool at all processing stages, especially loose stock, slubbing and yarn.
Huntsman’s latest Lanasol Blacks range of chrome free dyes for wool and other fine animal fibres can be applied by a simple and robust dyeing process which ensures excellent reproducibility and significantly shorter processing, making them more economical than chrome dyes.
Complementing the black dyes is Miralan LTD, the first low temperature dyeing auxiliary that facilitates the application of Lanasol Black dyes for deepest black shades at reduced temperature and shorter dyeing times with minimal fibre damage.
The frequently heard arguments that deep black shades are not achievable with metal free dyes are now history, the company says.
Lanasol Blacks reactive dyes are said to produce the same or even deeper black shades than the mordant blacks, with high fixation and satisfactory levelness that match and exceed the qualities of chrome dyes.
Chinese firm buys UK cashmere producers
In another major change in the luxury fibres market, famous Scottish cashmere manufacturer, Todd and Duncan, was acquired by Chinese company, Ningxia Zhongyin, this September.
Todd and Duncan, based in Kinross, Scotland, is a manufacturer of highest quality cashmere, blended and woollen yarns. It sources most of its raw materials from China and exports about 60% of its product to the European market. Ningxia Zhongyin is a major supplier of cashmere fibre to Todd & Duncan.
In 2008, Todd and Duncan reported an operating loss of £500,000 on a turnover of £22.2 million.
“Todd and Duncan has experienced challenging trading conditions in recent years, resulting from increasing raw material costs and intense competition in Europe,” said Dawson International CEO, Andy Bartmess. “Ningxia Zhongyin is committed to manufacturing cashmere yarns from a Scottish manufacturing base and maintaining a Scottish workforce.”
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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