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| Issue date:08/12/2009 |
| ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Dec 2009 Issue |
| Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel |
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| Electronics hidden inside the advanced systems have largely been the key to innovative developments in weaving machines, writes Adrian Wilson |
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| The Brintons installation at the Band on the Wall in Manchester, UK |
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Historic UK carpet manufacturer Brintons has recently broken new ground in weaving technology by reproducing a photo-realistic 3D image in an Axminster carpet.
The privately-owned company, which opened its first mill in 1783, has a strong reputation for its design and technical leadership. It was commissioned this year to weave a piece of original art specifically produced by local artists for the floor of the "Band on the Wall" - a renovated live music venue in the city of Manchester.
The single giant image that was woven in Axminster is based on the specialist plugs, sockets, connectors and other equipment that are commonly used in the music industry. The design also features coloured audio leads that guide club-goers to different areas within the venue. The image was used across two floors, in a significant break from the traditional use of repeat patterns in carpet.
To reproduce the image in carpet and to fully capture its photo-realistic quality, Brintons needed to call on all of its technical expertise during the weaving process. All of the time and effort was justified because the new carpet has ensured Brintons a place in the history books for breaking radical new ground in weaving technology by achieving a quality of image definition that has never been seen before.
The image was used across two floors in a significant break from the traditional use of repeat patterns in carpet |
"To achieve a truly three dimensional, photo-realistic image in carpet was a complex project because we were using more colours than we've ever used in the past," said the company's commercial director, Phil Harris. "It's fair to say that the carpet is unlike anything that has ever been produced before. The reproduction of the image is crystal clear and I think we've set a new technical standard for what can be achieved when weaving a carpet. It makes a stunning impact that will grab the attention of everyone who walks through the door at the venue."
Electronics enhances performance
While this achievement by Brintons is strikingly apparent in the end product, it must be said that looking at the latest weaving machines, it is no longer generally possible to see many of the new developments, which have been introduced.
The emphasis at Toyota, for example, as a global manufacturer of weaving machines - especially with the best-selling JAT710 airjet - has been increasingly on the use of electronic servo drives to improve quality and reproducibility, while at the same time reducing maintenance.
"It's about adding intelligence wherever possible," says Robert Bieri, COO of Toyota Textile Machinery Europe (TTME). "A lot of mechanical functions are now being replaced by electronics, and as a consequence, much of the innovation is in the software. This is making the machines both simpler and longer lasting."
The latest Toyota WAS (Weave Assist System), for example, can be considered an "expert system" that runs completely in the background.
Robert Bieri of Toyota Textile Machinery Europe |
By analysing the required fabric data, it can instruct the loom - with only a limited number of exceptions - exactly what mechanical, in addition to electrical, adjustments need to be made to weave the style.
"Making the machine easier in every respect is one of Toyota's priorities," said Mr Bieri. "WAS simply tells the machine what it's going to weave, calculates the settings and what has to be changed and then makes those changes wherever possible.
"Behind WAS is a database of thousands of styles and their corresponding machine settings, which is being updated and expanded all the time."
Changing markets
The tool was a logical step for Toyota's developers in respect of adapting the machine to changing market requirements, Mr Bieri added.
"The first dramatic changes in the textile weaving markets were in the middle of the 1990s when growing cost pressure in the West forced producers to reduce their work forces, with the consequence that more duties and responsibilities were put on the shoulders of a smaller number of people. As a result, each member of an operation had to take over new and different assignments and the impact of this - in respect of more down time for machine settings - started to affect productivity and efficiency. At the same time, companies suffered from a rapid drain of skilled labour.
Toyota JAT710 benefits greatly from its Weave Assist System (WAS) |
"Markets in Asia and the Far East changed in a different way. Many newly emerged companies are staffed by young people who, while having solid basic educations and an eagerness to learn more, had no operational experience or textile technological know-how. Both markets had a common problem - lack of know-how," says Toyota.
Today, every operator of a Toyota air-jet machine can retrieve most of this lost know-how in an intelligent database of the machine control. The WAS expert system will look at the database and calculate suitable machine settings on input of the most important fabric style data.
Whatever the machine control can do automatically is carried out instantly and displayed as actual settings in the touch screen of the machine controls. In addition, all settings, which need to be done manually are displayed in the same overview. After the operator has carried out the manual settings, it is necessary to either confirm the recommended setting value or input an intentionally changed setting value. As a result, the database also learns and builds a personal dictionary for the expert system to consider in respect of optimised settings in the future.
WAS is easy to use without first reading an instruction manual. A simple interactive user interface guides the operator, providing immediate benefits in fabric quality, style flexibility and productivity, and allowing faster style changes without setting mistakes.
Advanced motor programs speed
Advanced electronics also characterise the Sumo motor, which is now fitted as standard on all Picanol weaving machines.
The Sumo motor drives the machine directly, without belt transmission or a clutch and brake. Its speed is variable and is electronically set and controlled. Automatic pickfinding and slow motion are also driven by the same motor.
So successful has this technology been since it was introduced in the year 2000, that the company has recently shipped its 50,000th weaving machine based on it.
The Switched Reluctance Motor has wound field coils for the stator windings, as in a DC motor. The rotor, however, has no magnets or coils attached. The rotor of the motor aligns itself as soon as the opposite poles of the stator become energized. When the windings are energized in the correct sequence, full rotation of the rotor is achieved. This sequence can also be reversed to achieve motion in the opposite direction.
Sumo direct drive technology swept away many difficulties and costs related to older technology it replaced, with its asynchronous motor and clutch combination.
The Sumo motor - fitted on 50,000 Picanol weaving machines since 2000 |
The result is a greatly simplified drive train, reducing the number of gears, bearings and sealing rings by a factor of 40% and resulting in 25% lower energy consumption.
It also eliminated all wearing parts in the drive train, reducing maintenance costs by 20-40% and eliminating V belts, timing belts, chains, friction brakes, clutches, frequency converters, cooling fans and auxiliary motors for slow motion - a typical clutch-brake combination costs more than 1,000 euros to overhaul every five years.
Crossing timings are set from the display and no more pulleys need to be changed in order to switch to another machine speed, with the Sumo the intermediate gear between the motor shaft and harness drive can be disconnected as the Sumo motor slowly turns a couple of degrees forward, changing the crossing timing when engaging again. It takes just 14 seconds, compared with about 20 minutes or so with the old technology.
The same applies to speed changes, which are carried out from the display immediately, whereas changing speed pulleys takes more than 15 minutes at best. In addition, with the Sumo it is possible to program the speed according to the weave pattern, opening up a wide range of possibilities to improve weaving efficiency and productivity.
The weaving machine can also determine its own optimum speed, depending on insertion parameters, increasing production by at least 5% on average, and it can be stopped always at the same preset position, regardless of pattern, because the Sumo actively increases or decreases power during stopping.
As a heavyweight development, the Sumo bucks the trend somewhat, in a machinery sector where progress is largely now being achieved via microprocessors alone.
Suppliers of weaving preparation and weaving machines
Comez highlights electronic needle looms
Comez, a supplier in the area of narrow fabrics production technology offering both electronic and electronic-jacquard weaving needle looms.
Comez CLX/EL is an innovative, highly efficient electronic needle loom of Comez for weaving rigid and elastic ribbons.
Derived from an exclusive Comez design and international patent-protected, the Comez CLX/EL system offers:
application of innovative electronics, with all-new hardware and software
robust and compact structure that is easy to use and simplifies maintenance operations
smooth operation with noise reduced to a minimum and complete absence of vibrations
high productivity and reliability.
Tubular ribbons made on Comez CLX/EL machine (above) |
The machine is designed of the manufacturing of various narrow fabrics, both rigid and elastic laces, ribbons, articles for corsetry, plain and tubular ribbons for technical applications and etc.
It also features with a new Smart Matrix Controller, governing the latest generation of actuators. These new actuators feature good dynamic performance and positioning precision. The controller manages all machine functions and allows programming of numerous electronically controlled devices and monitoring of the production data.
Two versions of Comez CLX/EL needle loom are available: CLX/EL 500 (with two to eight weaving heads) and CLX/EL 700 (with two to 12 weaving heads). They can be fitted with dobby unit with up to 20 heald frames, and allow easy and precise heald frame adjustment as well as interchangeable weaving heads to facilitate width adjustments and variation of the number of ribbons produced.
Besides a variety of binding systems, numerous optional devices are provided including creels, feeders for weft and warp threads and ribbon take-up systems.
Enhanced Dornier systems suit upholstery production
New Dornier P1 rapier weaving machine |
The further development of the Dornier EasyLeno technology combined with Jacquarette called MultiPattern is of high interest to upholstery and automotive textiles weavers, the company says.
With MultiPattern, the advantages of leno technology – open mesh, slip resistant weaving with double-face optic and low material consumption – are combined with Jacquard weaving, which is essential in upholstery production.
The newly introduced control system of the Dornier A1 and P1 weaving machines have an integrated 15-inch touch screen and is easy to handle. By only touching a few icons, different settings can be made intuitively, reproducibly and reliably, the company explains.
The new electronic system with Fast Ethernet Technology, equipped with the latest safety features, enables real-time data transfer to all electronically controlled components (such as the magnet valves for main and relay nozzles, the axis control and the sensors) during the weaving process.
Fadis ensures dyeing quality with Sincro M
Preparatory systems in the field are provided by Fadis, such as its major technological innovation, the FAPP (FAdis Precision Package) low density package.
The Sincro M is a new concept of winding machine with precision crossing and electronic yarn guide, which can reach speeds up to 2000 m/min (mechanical speed up to 2500 m/min).
Sincro M of Fadis
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With the Sincro M machine, it is possible to produce FAPP low density packages with wide retraction margins of the yarn during the dyeing phase, thus keeping a high residual elasticity percentage of the elasticized yarn. Therefore, it is possible to unwind the FAPP with the Sincro RFM SW rewinding machine with its on-the-line tension control, so as to obtain qualitative results quite similar to hank dyeing but with the same simplicity and economy typical of yarn package dyeing.
The fundamental innovation of these machines is the use of the precision crossing with electronic yarn guide and positively driven swift instead of a positively driven bobbin. This new machine is able to process not only stretch polyamide yarns, but also various elasticized yarns which main prerogative is to maintain a high degree of residual elasticity after dyeing, such as Corespun, elasticized viscose, nylon PBT and polyester T400.
Leno fabrics made smoothly with Grob's PosiLeno
As outlined during recent textile trade exhibitions and symposia, leno weaving is getting attractive and cost-effective with PosiLeno, a new leno binding system of Grob by Groz-Beckert, which improves the manufacture of leno fabrics, the company states.
PosiLeno Leno System of Grob by Groz-Beckert |
Neither time-intensive adaptions of machines, nor leno yokes and springs are needed, according to the compamy. The positively controlled leno device for riderless heald frames enables faster production speeds. In other words, leno fabrics can be produced on advanced weaving machines without "artificial" reduction of the speed.
Furthermore, PosiLeno allows various patterning possibilities with leno binding over a wide range of different warp yarns. Due to the positively controlled doup frames, the binding is reliable. Article changes are simple, fast and cost-effective.
Shed formation movements are optimized, assuring high fabric quality and minimizing stresses on warp yarns, heald frames and leno healds.
PosiLeno is a gateway to get into leno weaving by keeping the versatility of previous leno-systems while combining more production possibilities available with new modern weaving machines.
ITEMA Weaving offers extensive weaving machine range
ITEMA Weaving combines the strength of Italian inventiveness and Swiss precision, with its machines made in Italy, Switzerland and China under the brands of Sulzer Textil, Somet, Vamatex and Fimtextile for varied applications.
Sulzer Textil P7300HP projectile weaving machine |
To suit today's and future market needs in the manufacture of technical fabrics, Sulzer Textil P7300HP projectile weaving machine features low energy consumption, versatility and good adaptability. Sulzer Textil also offers the Customized Weaving Technology (CWT) and Sulzer Textil G6500 rapier weaving machine for industrial textile production.
The high-performance CWT weaving technology covers weaving machines for agrotextiles and geotextiles, conveyor belts, sail cloth, cinema and theatre screens, filter fabrics, tarpaulins and so forth. It aims to supply users with weaving machines tailor-made for their products. On the other hand, the G6500 is a high-end rapier weaving machine equipped with the "Rotocut" rotary or "Pneumocut" pneumatic weft cutter system, to produce aramid fibers, ultrafine filter fabrics, airbags, coating fabrics, geo-synthetics, glass and composite materials.
High productivity is possible with Sulzer Textil L5500 air-jet weaving machine, while ensuring good fabric quality and low air consumption. Due to the new Active Weft Control system (AWC), comprising of NTC (New Time Controller) and RTC (Real Time Controller), the compressed air consumption is drastically reduced, the company explains. This machine suits for light-weight denim and sheeting applications.
Rapier weaving machines of Somet and Vamatex are characterized with convenience for style changes.
Somet Alpha PGA rapier weaving machine is a flexible machine with regard to inserting different weft materials and yarn counts into the same fabric (e.g. upholstery), and working at a high production level. Meanwhile, Vamatex Silver HS rapier weaving machine is a fast machine and suitable for making high quality shirting and denim.
Additionally, ITEMA Weaving provides terry weaving technologies with Sulzer Textil Rapier G6500F terry weaving machine at high speeds, as well as Vamatex Silver DynaTerry rapier weaving machine for high-quality terry products.
For Asian users, the company supplies in particular ITEMA K88 rapier weaving machine and ITEMA L88 air-jet weaving machine, which are assembled at ITEMA Weaving Machinery (China).
Vamatex Silver HS rapier weaving machine |
Evolved from the original design of the Vamatex rapier weaving machine, the ITEMA K88 has a good price-performance ratio. More than 5000 machines of ITEMA K88 were installed in the Chinese or other markets. In the meantime, the ITEMA L88 is equipped with an advanced technology of cam driven sley movement, direct drive main motor and more up-to-date technologies for the manufacture of cotton and polyester fabrics.
ITEMA Weaving also provides a variety of dobbies, cam motions and accessories, machine upgrades and modifications, as well as technical support with its Active Textile Services.
Karl Mayer develops custom solutions for denim sector
The Karl Mayer group presents a new generation of economical, eco-friendly warp preparation machinery under the Karl Mayer Warp Preparation business unit, which integrates the former textile machinery groups of Moenus-Sucker, the weaving preparatory operations of Benninger AG, and Ira L. Griffin Sons Inc. The machines in the Indig-o-matic denim processing range are complemented by the company's new rope-dyeing technology.
The innovative, client-oriented Indig-o-matic dyeing and sizing machine is designed and engineered for economically and ecologically production of uniformly dyed and sized weaving warps. Karl Mayer's Indig-o-matic is able to carry out both slasher dyeing process involving semi-continuous, full-width dyeing/sizing, as well as rope dyeing process involving discontinuous hank/rope dyeing with subsequent sizing. The machine also offers advantages for use in specific applications to cater for the wide range of different quality requirements demanded by the market.
Karl Mayer also supplies parallel, swivel-frame, magazine and 'V' creels for producing extremely fine menswear, womenswear and fashion garments. All the systems are customised, and can be supplied with ancillary equipment, such as balloon breakers, tension-equalising rods and knotting and cutting devices. The creel can be individually configured for carrying packages having diameters of up to 320 mm and for fewer than 1,000 packages. The brake can be selected specifically to suit the article being processed, so that the yarn delivery equipment feeds the yarn under a controlled and regulated yarn tension.
Other machines and accessories provided by Karl Mayer include Ben Direct, a direct beaming machine; BW-T60 ball warper; LCB long chain beamer; RN beam creel with tension controller; Vario Single and Vario Ddouble application systems; Quickoxidation, a quick oxidation zone; WT-3 and WT-4 wash troughs and more, the company adds.
In addition, the company's Kamcos control technology enable users to determine where and how faults and weak areas in the processing chain can be eliminated most economically.
Oerlikon Schlafhorst provides enhanced winding precision
Oerlikon Schlafhorst launched a new generation of Autoconer 5 S rewinding machine for processing of packages.
The new Autoconer 5 S |
The new PreciFX |
With a new software-controlled yarn laying system called PreciFX, the Autoconer 5 S offers enhanced winding of precleared yarn from package to package. Eliminating additional yarn clearing and automation presents no losses whatsoever for the rewinding process, since the new machine is able to rewind pre-cleared yarn onto process-optimised packages.
The Autoconer 5 S allows users to produce the desired quality package and repetitively, the company says. PreciFX includes the three winding technologies – precision, step-precision and pattern-free random winding, and it provides sound textile-technological expertise on the optimum package build for efficient downstream processing. As a result, operators can concentrate on fulfilling the requirements of downstream processors: intelligent package engineering at the touch of a button.
PreciFX winds packages for dyeing, warping and weaving, knitting, twisting and doubling applications. The company adds that PreciFX also ensures increased package quality by its pattern-free package build and a uniform package structure.
The Autoconer 5 S can be further integrated with yarn tension control system Autotense FX, the precision length measuring system Eco-pack FX and other devices to ensure a desired package winding process at the factory floor, Oerlikon Schlafhorst concludes.
Electronic jacquard and advanced technologies from Stäubli
Stäubli's textile division is a supplier of shedding systems for weaving machines, dobbies and jacquard machines, and provides suitable machinery for the manufacturing of all kinds of fabrics. The company has also a unit of weaving preparation systems, which product offerings range from automatic warp drawing-in systems, warp tying machines, multilayer leasing machines to handling equipment for quick style change on looms.
Electronic jacquard machine types CX from Stäubli |
Electronic jacquard machine types CX for labelling on fabrics and Safir drawing-in machine are two examples of highly advanced machinery developed and manufactured by Stäubli.
The family of type CX electronic jacquard machine is designed for weaving-in custom labels in selvedges and fabrics. Weaving-in brand marks enhances the value of the fabric and helps counterfeiting. It can thus provide even more value to high-quality fabric, the company states.
Stäubli Safir drawing-in machine |
The CX family can be configured with up to 192 hooks and is adaptable on any type of loom of any performance. Normally a weaving machine will be equipped with two name selvedge units, one on each side of the fabric driven by the user-friendly JC6N controller. This highly flexible operating and control device with colour touch screen make possible various design options, for example, different names on the left and right hand side of a suiting cloth are possible.
In addition to the CX systems, Safir drawing-in machine offers a higher level of flexibility.
Newly developed Safir continues the tradition of Stäubli automatic drawing-in machines and simultaneously opens new opportunities regarding flexibility in use. The company explains that users benefit from high quality of automatically drawn in warps and from the fact that these warps are available exactly at the desired time and in the amounts necessary for production.
Safir can be configured to draw in of one or two warp beams with up to eight thread layers each. A camera system checks the yarn to be drawn in during each cycle, and ensures the accuracy in the process.
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
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