|
|
| Issue date:22/02/2010 |
| ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Feb 2010 Issue |
| Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel |
| by Staff Reporters |
|
| The market of knitting machinery was affected by the global economic downturn. Imports of various knit products to the United States, for instance, fell in 2009. In order to help the apparel industry revitalize, more machinery builders have focused on the development of software to make the knitting process more efficient for designers as well as manufacturers |
|
 |
| WholeGarment (left) and intarsia loop simulation is made possible with Shima Seiki latest design software. |
|
|
|
Amid the relatively weak business climate, users were hesitant in major capital investment on textile machinery. However, there were needs to mechanize production in face of growing labour costs, for example, in China, observed Shima Seiki. Shima Seiki is a Japanese computerized flat knitting machinery supplier. In general, flat knitting machinery suppliers marketed their machines with competitive prices as well as promises on ever-faster production speeds.
Mechanization in knit production lags behind in the South Asian region including Bangladesh, though it is a key industry at the moment, Shima Seiki mentioned in its recent investor relations report. The company believes that the South Asian region (e.g. Bangladesh) will be a potential market in the future.
Designers work more freely with innovative software
Tapping the potential opportunities, Shima Seiki has further improved its design and software solutions. The latest SDS-One RD2 is developed with upgraded hardware and software to provide essential technical support in the manufacturing of high-quality consumer apparel. The company explains that the solutions support varied stages of production, from product planning to design, virtual sampling, machine programming, merchandising and retail promotion. As a result, a smoother and more efficient workflow is made possible to allow a faster design-to-production cycle, higher quality, shorter lead times and increased profits, Shima Seiki says.
Some US knits apparel imports by category in million US dollar between January and October 2009 |
The company also recently introduced the SDS-One Apex system that makes photo-realistic simulations without the need for costly and time-consuming pre-production sampling. Layering of multiple garments for checking coordinated items is also possible.
On the machinery front, Shima Seiki launched a new model of computerized flat knitting machinery that works very rapidly. The new Mach2 was positively received at the ShanghaiTex 2009 exhibition last June in China. The maximum knitting speed of Mach2 is increased to 1.6m/sec. With various improvements, it is able to more than double the productivity, the company says.
Another leading developer of computer-controlled flat knitting machinery, H. Stoll, also emphasizes the importance of software.
Users need to work more economically and flexibly, and they would like to attain an optimized capacity utilization of their machine pool, said Dr Martin Hermann, Managing Director of H. Stoll. Time management is a major topic as well. For example, the use of advanced software allows users to monitor and control the machine pool from a central point, and to find out if any machine in the machine pool is running or not so as to enable an immediate action to reduce downtimes.
The M1plus is the latest development of Stoll for users to work faster while enjoying greater designing freedom. Compatible with patterns from its preceding version, the M1plus has new features such as Design Mode, Module and Color Arrangements so that users can complete a pattern faster. Numerous automatic functions free users from the programming of standard procedures. The new version is also user-friendlier with improved menu guidance system, according to Stoll.
Another highlight, Stoll says, is the exclusive cooperation with Eneas Informatica in flat knitting that allows users a higher degree of freedom regarding design, fabric simulation and presentation.
The M1plus system can help users work faster on Stoll-knit and wear systems |
New features of this new software are also offered on Stoll-knit and wear systems. The company provides a number of models in the class of knit and wear for different needs of users such as productive and specialist production (including oversizes), as well as from coarse and fine knitting.
Further, Santoni from Italy offers software solutions to provide assistance to knit designers and manufacturers. Pulsar is a new product developed by Dinema together with Santoni to program a seamless machine.
The levels of detail and variety of items, which can be knitted on a seamless machine, has reached complex levels that new knitting methods are needed. In contrast to most software packages, Pulsar is an expert system that allows users to create their desired knitted articles without the worry on the mechanical aspect, according to Santoni.
The program allows the designer to first view the color composition of the article and then in details the stitch structure. It also uses identical pattern development methods allowing the designer to match different combinations of stitch structures to the visible aspects of the articles (colors). Santoni says that the main feature of the Pulsar program is a significant reduction of the knitting time of knit articles.
After analyzing the designer's work, Pulsar can also recommend to the user the yarn set-up on the machine which, should the user confirm, would then automatically create and send a program directly to the machine for knitting the article. It is compatible with Santoni's Digraph3 Plus advanced graphic system.
Computer-aided design / manufacturing (CAD/CAM) solutions are provided by Asian firms as well.
Based in Hong Kong, ASP Creation has developed a CAM solution, SmartKnitter, to help users save costs and time.
Users can access the Smartknitter software through the Internet around the clock with an affordable monthly subscription fee. Regular updates are provided without additional costs.
Smartknitter software of ASP Creation |
With the help of the artificial intelligence and user-adaptive technology, this intelligent tool is capable of “learning” and can adapt to the work habit of individual knitting technicians, explained Wong Fai, CEO of ASP Creation.
Mr Wong told ATA Journal that the software delivers an array of cost-saving efficiency improvements. Sample order processing and management is provided to enhance coordination among working partners. Composition of mixed-yarn, yarn weight and consumption prior to sample making is calculated easily, and knitting instructions can be automatically generated. Users can preview colour stripe placement and make modifications to produce the desired effects.
Designers work more freely with innovative software
Apart from the advances in software solutions, textile machinery builders have sought for new improvements in the machinery.
Karl Mayer will introduce the first raschel machine equipped with carbon fiber-reinforced plastic (CFRP) components by April 2010.
Karl Mayer's RSE 4-1 is the fastest four-bar raschel machine in the world, the company says, and will set new speed standards and operate with precision accuracy independent from climatic conditions.
The speed has been increased by integrating innovative CFRP components into the machine construction, which has been specially adapted to handle these components, the company explains.
Karl Mayer's RSE 4-1 raschel machine
|
The weight of the CFRP bars has been decreased by as much as 25% compared with the conventional type, whilst the rigidity has been increased. This has opened up more scope for setting the maximum achievable speed. Above all, however, the use of CFRP materials results in temperature stability during production. The temperature window for problem-free machine running has been extended from +/- 2°C to +/- 7°C.
Extending this tolerance range has minimised any loss in efficiency caused by having to adjust the needle tool as a function of the climatic conditions, or to reduce the speed following a machine stoppage. The result is that the machine availability of the RSE 4-1 is higher than ever before, which has increased the total overall performance of this high-tech production machine, Karl Mayer concludes.
Improved positive feeder avoids machine stoppage
Being part of Belgian Van De Wiele group, Germany-based Memminger-Iro offers the yarn feeding system, monitoring system and lubrication system for knitting machinery.
MPF-L positive feeder of Memminger-Iro
|
The MPF-L is a new generation of the Memminger positive feeder series MPF. The 100% positive yarn infeed with the MPF-L considerably influences the knitting quality and the machine efficiency, the company explains. The task of the MPF-L is to evenly feed the yarn from the yarn bobbin to the needles by applying only minimum tension and to avoid yarn tension fluctuations.
By means of the MPF-L, a wide variety of non-elastic yarns as well as covered or cabled elastane can be processed.
Furthermore, the feeder is equipped with a vibrating yarn tensioner to ensure smooth production. The magnetic tension rings are continuously kept in rotation against the yarn feed in direction. Frequent machine stops caused by contaminated tension rings are thus avoided to ensure enhanced machine efficiency, according to Memminger-Iro.
In the aspect of circular knitting cylinders, Groz-Beckert KG provides those of ensure maximum precision. The company explains that the use of quality cylinders and components helps ensure durability of circular knitting machines and allow them to reach full potential for high-performance operation on the factory floor.
Cylinder of Groz-Beckert KG
|
A selection of 60,000 knitting cylinders and around 50,000 different needles and system parts for the manufacture of textile surfaces are offered. With needles available in thickness from 0.21 mm in gauge E68 knitting cylinders, the company provides machine constructors and users the widest product spectrum.
New battle fronts for creative knitted fabrics
In the field of circular knitting, Mayer & Cie offers a range of machines for different segments of the mattress market. Knitted fabric has good point elasticity, is pleasantly soft, voluminous, permeable to air, washable and capable of production in wide-ranging different weights, the company mentions.
Knitted fabric eliminates the need to use cost-intensive special yarns to achieve sufficient elasticity. Circular knit goods are less susceptible to warping and bulging, permit better further processing due to their volume, can be produced in tubular form and eliminate the need for quilting as an additional work step. Modern mattress covers are predominantly removable and washable. The use of knitted fabric allows the cover to be easily removed and replaced.
The top-tier segment of mattresses currently ranges between 1,400 and 1,700 euros, and the Mayer & Cie OVJA 1.6 EE and the OVJA 1.1 TTRB are designed for this segment.
OVJA 1.6 EE system of Mayer & Cie
|
Mayer & Cie also offers optimum machine equipment to supply the medium segment accounting for about a quarter of the total market with its OVJA 1.6 E model and most recently the OVJA 1.6 EM. These two systems allow extensive patterning versatility and simple resetting, as well as efficient knitting of even small production runs, the company says.
Over half of the market is shared by mass-priced mattresses between 50-300 euros and Mayer & Cie provides OVJA 2.4 E with 92 feeders and higher output for this segment.
Advancements by suppliers of Greater China
A number of knitting machine builders from Hong Kong, Taiwan and Mainland China have made new development in the knitting technology.
In the area of jacquard knitting, a new fully electronic double jacquard knitting machine, TF-DEJ, was introduced by Fujian Shishi Taifan Machinery Industry.
Located in Shishi city of Fujian province, the company offers this new machine to produce quality large-size home textiles. Equipped with well-designed cylinder and cam box, the machine is said to obtain a higher level of reliability, stability, durability and performance. A variety of jacquard patterns can be knitted, the company adds.
Hong Kong Nan Sing Machinery offers well-designed flat knitting machines manufactured by cutting-edge automation technologies from Japan, the company says.
Taifan's jacquard machine
|
Needle beds of Nan Sing's flat knitting machines are made with high-carbon steel flat bars that are harder and more resistant to wear than other materials. The rail is made of high-carbon steel for good performance and reliability over a long period. High-grade stainless steel is also selected for gauge scale ruler in order to achieve a longer service life.
In addition, the company provides an extensive portfolio of knitting machinery, including automatic glove knitting machines, circular knitting machines (e.g. single-jersey, terry, fleece, double rib circular, single knit circular machine with auto stripers) and computerized flat knitting machines.
The new DEJ/DCJ double-side computerized jacquard machine developed by Quanzhou Baiyuan Machinery is equipped with an advanced electronic system to control needle selection. Moreover, the machine is offered with high-precision knitting components that allow users to produce jacquard knit fabrics in a wider variety of patterns and designs. The high-precision components also ensure a high level of accuracy and stability, the company adds. Manufactured with quality alloy copper materials under a special heat treatment, the needle cylinder is durable, according to Quanzhou Baiyuan Machinery, which is situated in Quanzhou city of Fujian province in China.
Meanwhile, Quanzhou Zhengxin Machinery supplies differing needle cylinders as well as key components and parts for circular knitting machines. Over 500 types of needle cylinders are available with the company, which are made on advanced machine tools. Sizes of the cylinders are made upon requests of clients, and imported materials of S48CLN are used.
Production better managed with RFID
Traditional sweater manufacturers carry on through increased quality standards and design variety demands from clients, shorter delivery cycles, and mounting costs of materials and labour. Manual analysis of data is no longer preferable as faster, well-informed decision-making is needed, according to the Zymmetry
Group, a Hong Kong radio-frequency identification (RFID) solution provider.
Apparel producers have thus adopted the solutions, such as Texford Knitting Co Ltd Of Huizhou in China. With the ZymFactory RFID solution, this user company is able to share identical and real-time data within the company. Communications with clients and partners are smoother as well.
Cost analysis and budgeting is done much more efficiently. The transparent and easy-to-analyze data facilitate this user company in providing the client a more accurate quotation. More business opportunities are thus open to it.
The ZymFactory can capture data from each production checkpoint every 5-10 seconds, making the entire apparel production process highly transparent, the Zymmetry Group adds. In the case of Texford Knitting, the production planning and management can be improved substantially, shortening the production cycle by one week, and defective products are reduced by 5%.
|
| We are collecting readers' comment for improving our website. If you are willing to help, please CLICK HERE to complete a survey. Your comments matter. |
|
|
|
|
| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
|
| Copyright © Adsale Publishing Limited. Any party needs to reprint any part of the content should get the written approval from Adsale Publishing Ltd and quote the source "ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel", Adsale Textile English Website - www.AdsaleATA.com. We reserve the right to take legal action against any party who reprints any part of this article without acknowledgement. For enquiry, please contact Editorial Department. |
|
|
|
Close
|
|
|
Write a mail to the editor : 
