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Latest textile finishing and testing technologies play up much-needed values
Issue date:23/08/2010
ATA Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel - Aug 2010 Issue
Source:Journal for Asia on Textile & Apparel
by Staff Reporters
A group of new technologies in the field of textile dyeing, finishing and printing, as well as testing and quality control, have been introduced, exciting the market with features like value for money, exceptional speed and environmental friendliness
Benninger Kuesters DyePad Basic
Benninger Kuesters DyePad Basic
New machines aim to facilitate eco-friendlier processes

Cold pad batch dyeing process (CPB) offers advantages over continuous dyeing, such as the suitability for small lot production, energy and materials savings and smaller capital investment in production equipment.

The new Küsters DyePad Basic padder meeting all of the requirements of the cold pad batch dyeing process (CPB) provides good value for money, according to Benninger. With its deflection-controlled S-Roll technology, it dyes a wide range of articles in reproducible and premium quality. This basic version of machine has a slightly simpler design. It is mechanically adjustable, without complicated electronics and is a more inexpensive padder alongside the familiar padder with PLC controlled S-Roll.

Alongside the proven and necessary S-Roll technology, this application system has an automatic dyestuff feed and even a quick-clean option. With the deflection controlled S-Roll the squeezing pressure is uniform over the entire working width, independent of the applied. Through the uniform linear liquor application by two deflection-controlled rollers throughout the entire batch the most advanced dyeing results can be achieved.


Monforts soft coating machine
Additionally, gathering experience in other industries, Benninger also offers User-friendly and cost-efficient integrated total solutions for textile finishing processes with automation systems. The simple graphical user interfaces which, if required, can automatically check the plausibility of command inputs and therefore guide the user to achieving the best results.

A new machine from Monforts was also developed to achieve eco-friendlier processes in the field of soft coating.

A new soft coating solution from Monforts provides energy savings with reduced drying times and can also eliminate the need for a conventional padder.

The new soft coating process using trough and roller techniques is providing energy savings with reduced liquor application to apply just the required amount of liquid/coating to the fabric via contact with the roller, the company says.

Applications include nano coating, water repellency, softeners and pigment dyeing. Used primarily for clothing applications, the soft coating process can, for example, apply soil-or water-repellency to one side of the fabric and softener or water absorption, respectively, to the second side.


New Montex 6500 stenter range
The new process, in some cases, can apply the liquid/coating via a roller. A twin-roller is used for double-sided applications. Compared with a padder operation, the initial moisture content of 60% is reduced to 40% using the Monforts soft coating process, ensuring a reduction in drying times and reduced energy costs, the company explains. Monforts reported that such ranges were installed in Thailand and Belgium with double-sided coating techniques plus single-sided systems in Germany and Italy.

By replacing liquor used for propelling the fabric through the dyeing vessel by a recirculating air stream, Then-Airflow piece dyeing machines offer a shorter batch time and lower specific consumption of water, steam, electrical power and chemicals in the industry.

Available in HT or LT (atmospheric) versions, Then-Airflow machines are the best selling brand in the whole dyeing industry, according to Fong’s Europe.

Compared with traditional hydraulic machines, Then-Airflow offers the customer one batch more per day, save 40-60% of fresh and discharge water volume, 30-50% of steam, and 15-20% in electrical power. In reactive dyeing, the savings can achieve as high as 50-60% in chemicals.

In addition, Monforts Fong’s, a joint venture between Fong’s Industries Group and A.Monforts, produces the new Montex 6500 stenter range since 2010. The machine is available for China and South East Asia. Monforts Fong’s received nine sets confirmed orders for Montex 6500, the company said this June. This top-of-the-line machine is equipped with distinctive features such as the exclusive A.Monforts design, a faster range speed, an integrated exhaust channel as well as adjustable nozzles for the outflow current, the company adds.

Drying polyester yarns in 20 minutes


New pressure dryer from Thies
A new 1,500 kg capacity pressure dryer for dyed or bleached yarns was introduced by a German dyeing equipment specialist Thies. The company says the drying times with polyester yarns, for example, can be as low as 20 minutes and for natural fibres, 60 minutes.

The new pressure dryer, rated at 50 kg – 1500 kg, incorporates modern industrial PC (personal computer) controls together with the latest inverter technology and heat exchanger systems to provide significant labour reducing and energy consumption savings, plus improved yarn quality. Problems associated with overdrying, yellowing of bleached yarns and migration in dyed yarns are also eliminated, the company says.

Compactly designed, the new model offers reduced footprints with improved blower efficiency and reduced pipework whilst maintaining the highest airflow rates at high pressure.

The Thies dryer can provide energy consumption savings of between 40-50%. Steam consumption can be as low as 0.8 kg/kg of yarn, which can be further reduced to 0.3 kg/kg of yarn with inclusion of the heat recovery system, according to Thies.

Advanced color software offers peace of mind


A screenshot of Datacolor Tools software
In the realm of dyeing, color matters are increasingly managed by computer rather than by the human eye. Tools 2.0 color quality control and management software was recently launched by Datacolor to ensure consistent quality control at every step of the supply chain.

Keeping in mind the inevitability of rapid change in a given customer’s color trends and requests, the enhanced software is designed to quickly and easily create color measurement files and establish pass/fail criteria. The software navigation has been streamlined improving flexibility and ease of use, according to the company.

In addition, the new Tools 2.0 features configurable user interface, layout and workflow, which adapts the data presentation and program function-access per individual user or customer demand results using customized software configurations. Further, it offers complete backward compatibility. Users that are familiar with established procedures and data presentation layouts can continue to use existing, default and customized forms or take advantage of modern templates/pane layouts.

New printer speeds up print-to-textile process


Mimaki TX400-1800B large format textile inkjet printer
In the past textile large format printing implied long print runs and mostly rotary screen-printing machines. Now increasingly on-demand short run production is required that can be better accommodated by inkjet technology. Mimaki responded to the market need with its new direct-to-textile and dye sublimation inkjet printer, TX400-1800B.

Comparing to screen-printing, digital textile printing allows users to produce short runs economically. Inkjet printers feature an economic and cost-saving workflow and production process. It only requires the exact amount of ink that is needed for the application, decreases water usage and therefore lowers significantly the environmental footprint for production of short run textile printing in line with today’s needs.

Until now there was some reservation about productivity and running costs in digital textile printing, but the Tx400-1800B equipped with a newly developed Adhesive Belt Carrier System, changes this perception. In contrast to the earlier model this device stabilizes flexible materials that tend to stretch and contract during printing enabling higher printing speeds as well as ink cost reduction, making the Tx400-1800B an environmentally friendly large format printers for digital textile printing.

Innovative rotary finishing machine from Hong Kong

IF Rotary Finishing System manufactured by Tung Shing Dyeing Machines is a fully automatic wet finishing system specially designed for processing a wide variety of knitwear. Facilitated by appropriate mechanical action, the finishing effect can be maximized. The computer controller can be programmed according to different parameters such as garment knitting structure, kind of treatment, hand feel and degree of milling required. Human error can be minimized by the fully automatic system, the company says.

The machine was a research result of The Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel in collaboration with the Hong Kong Productivity Council.

More heads on new abrasion/pilling tester


James H. Heal’s nine-head Maxi-Martindale
Testers are of great interest to users as these equipments often provide the needed testament to their clients.

James H. Heal launched its latest technological innovation in abrasion and pilling testing Martindale 900 Series, which includes the Midi-Martindale Model 905 with five stations and Maxi-Martindale Model 909 with nine heads for higher capacity testing.

The new Model 909 is the only 9-head instrument in the market, which offers full, comfortable access to all abrading tables from the front, according to James H. Heal. Versatile and intuitive keypad user interface with audible/voice control is offered, and it is easy to change between abrasion, pilling and straight line motions.

The new tester provides varied measurements for fabric abrasion, fabric pilling, glove abrasion, sock abrasion, and leather (ball plate) testing, as well as wet and high friction. The company adds that it is energy efficient with low power consumption (30% lower than previous models).

Eight-time faster yarn hairiness tester launched


Uster Technologies debuted Zweigle HL400 at ITMA Asia+CITME 2010
Outstanding improvements in yarn hairiness measurement are offered by a new testing and classification instrument developed by Uster Technologies. The Uster Zweigle HL400 operates at speeds eight times faster than existing systems, with high levels of measuring accuracy and repeatability, according to the company.

Experience with textile fabrics has shown that 15% of unacceptable fabric defects, e.g. pilling, are caused by high levels of hairiness or hairiness variations. The hairiness level is also an important parameter in yarn profiles used as the basis for the buying and selling of yarns, Uster Technologies explains.

This new product was resulted from intensive development work by Uster specialists following the acquisition in July last year of the product range of Zweigle, a German maker of yarn testing instruments.

The company explains the new product operates at 400 m/min, compared to the 50 m/min throughput of the previous Zweigle system and today’s competitive systems. With the high speed, the Uster Zweigle HL400 can be measured at the same speed as the Uster Tester 5, offering enormous benefits in productivity.

On-line monitoring equipment for synthetic fibre

For the sector of synthetic fibre, Oerlikon Fibrevision, a member of Oerlikon Textile Components, offers a group of on-line monitoring equipment, sensors and instruments for both at line and laboratory testing.

Fibrevision FibreTQS is a multi parameter on-line monitoring system for application across all types of synthetic yarns processes including POY (polyester) and FDY (fully drawn yarn), ATY (air texturing), BCF (bulk continuous filament) and spandex.

In addition, Unitens for DTY Tension Monitoring can be used on all kinds of DTY (draw textured yarn) machines in the market, either direct from Fibrevision or from key suppliers, the company says. A new product, Unitens Plus provides interlace monitoring and optionally broken filament monitoring to offer further quality benefits, Oerlikon Fibrevision Ltd adds.

Cost-saving options from western tester suppliers


The cost-saving PnuBurst tester of SDL Atlas
The newly added Q-Sun B02 xenon lightfastness tester, an affordable lightfastness tester designed specifically to meet the requirements of ISO and AATCC. Q-Lab Corporation also welcomed the additional approval of the Q-Sun B02 tester by Marks & Spencer following a series of testing and material performance evaluations in accordance with the M&S light fastness test methods.

The capacity of B02 is 48% to 92% larger than most comparable xenon testers. It provides precise control of critical textile test parameters. Including spectrum, irradiance, relative humidity, chamber temperature and black standard temperature. Textile labs, large or small, can find fully automatic, xenon lightfastness testing at an affordable price, the company explains.

In the meantime, the new tabletop PnuBurst unit are built and certified to global safety and testing standards. It also delivers consistent and accurate testing for woven and nonwoven textiles, paper, paperboard and films, according to SDL Atlas.

Introduced as a cost-saving option, the PnuBurst design features a pneumatically operated diaphragm, a color touch-screen controller preprogrammed for major test protocols and automatic bell size and clamp ring detection. The PnuBurst offers convenient out-of-the-box operation, enabling laboratories to conduct burst tests up to 1500kPa (15bar, 217psi).

For users requiring an extended test range, the SDL Atlas AutoBurst offers labs a fully automatic but traditional hydraulic technique with up to 6000kPa (60bar, 870psi) operation, the company adds.

Roachelab Asia is an operations office of Roaches in China, providing customers with design and solutions to standard testing laboratories as well as dyeing and printing laboratories in the Far East. The company also provides professional products of Q-Lab Corporation, according to Roachelab Asia.

“The equipment upgrade and industrial optimization in China will bring us more business opportunity. Considering that users are demanding for a higher level of process control, we are confident with the market in China as our equipments are designed to help them improve their product quality,” said Jack Zhang (張建輝), Roachelab’s representative in Guangdong.

Chinese suppliers provide local choices and instant services


Yue Yiwei
It is a known fact that testers and other textile machinery sold by the Chinese local suppliers are usually tagged at a lower price level. Local suppliers, moreover, invite users or buyers for instant communications through online or mobile phone text messages. More China-made testing instruments are being stalled in the Chinese provinces as well as other emerging markets.

Changling (長嶺) provides local spinners the YG136A yarn evenness tester to ensure the yarn evenness and hairiness for yarns of cotton, wool, silk, hemp and chemical fibres. The tester is able to examine the level of evenness in a range of 4-80k tex and that of hairiness between 4-160k tex. The test speed of yarn ranges from 4-400m/min while that of hairiness is at 200 or 400m/min, and the test time is between 10 seconds to 20 minutes.

New Smart Dyer, developed by Xiamen Rapid Precision Machinery (厦门瑞比), is the latest generation of direct heat-conduct laboratory dyeing machine, which has been approved a number of patents in China.

The advanced heat-conduct design offers not only advantages of a Glycerin type dyeing machine, but also provides features of an infrared type dyeing machine. Its specially designed rotary system allows users to achieve even and crease-mark-free dyeing results, even at a low liquor ratio of 1:6. Users can easily add chemicals either in powder or liquid form during running of dyeing process by the patented One Touch injection device. Moreover, dyeing reproducibility is ensured as the chemical addition process simulates features of the bulk dyeing process, the company mentions.

Jiangsu Shenglan Technology (江苏圣藍) recently launched a yarn evenness tester, with an improved detection sensor to ensure more accurate test results. The maximum testing speed is 800m/min, the company says. “Equipped with Shenglan’s software, the yarn evenness tester can process and detect faults on yarns of 100,000 metres. This is a breakthrough in China and our company has applied for a patent for this particular achievement,” said Yue Yiwei (岳一偉), marketing director of Jiangsu Shenglan Technology.

Another Chinese enterprise in the textile testing field is Shanghai Ye Chang (上海业昌), which distributes a number of overseas machinery. Among other products, the PSM-200 Sensor System from Automation Partners Inc is available with Shanghai Ye Chang. The machine is a reliable, linear density measurement tool that provides continuous, reliable and completely automatic measurement of pick or course count.

Changzhou Textile Instruments Factory (常州市纺织儀器厂) mainly manufactures modern textile instruments, electrical control cabinets, and quality counter products. Its wide range of product offerings meet the needs of different users engaging in the areas of general textiles, dyeing and printing, synthetic fibres and nonwovens.

Yarn testing instruments include the YG022N single-yarn strength tester, YG020B electronic single-yarn strength tester, Y2155 yarn twist counter and more. Among these instruments, the YG022N tests the tensile strength and more of single yarns, with a testing range of 0-3000cN at a frequency of 20-333 times/S. The sample length is between 250-500 and the instrument works at a drawing speed of up to 500mm/min, according to the company.

Chinese patented technologies help ensure fibre quality

Wenzhou Fangyuan Instruments (温州方圓儀器) provides updated laboratory solutions complied with such standards as GB, ISO, AATCC, ASTMD and JIS. Its products are in operation at various fibre and quality inspection units under the local and regional administrations, colleges, universities and research institutes across China. The FY3100+ water-cooling sun exposure weathering tester is used to test a host of textile materials, dyes, leather, paints, nonwovens and more. Providing a simulated natural environment, the device provides data on colour fastness, aging, permeability, peeling, cracking and other changes of the materials. This model has been awarded four national patents in China, the company explains.

The physiological comfort of apparel, bedding and other textile products can be tested by the FY258B moisture transfer and removal tester that gives information on the level of thermal resistance and moisture resistance, according to Wenzhou Fangyuan.

The HD021NH electronic filament strength tester of Nantong Hongda Experiment Instruments (南通宏大实驗儀器) is used to test more accurately the breaking tenacity and elongation at break of single yarns made of cotton, wool, synthetic filament, textured yarn and more, the company says. It also uses specially designed pneumatic clamper, capable of meeting the testing requirements of synthetic filament and other special materials. The company also provides HD815C fabric flame-resistance tester, among a wide range of testers, for users in the textile and apparel field.

Recognised as a technological enterprises in Jiangsu province, Nantong Hongda invest substantially in research at its Nantong Hongda Textile Instrument R&D Center, which is a joint project of the company with the Xian University of Engineering Science and Technology. Scholarship, funding and research units are provided to or established at such academic units as Donghua University, Shanghai Textile Research Institute and Xian University of Engineering Science and Technology.

Laizhou Electronic Instrument (萊州电子儀器)’s Y571LA2 examines the abrasion resistance of automotive fabrics and woven materials, compound materials, plastic coated fabrics and synthetic leather.

In view of the growing sector of finishing, the company also provides a number of testers to determine colour fastness of textiles and apparel after washing, as well as the fastness of the dyes against water. A compact version is the LLY-55, which is more suitable for sample testing at the laboratory, Laizhou Electronic Instruments concludes.
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