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Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 1Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 2Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 3Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 4Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 5Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 6 - CONTENTS. JUN / JUL 2009 VOL. 20 NO.3 ■ ISSN 1015-8138 Feature Story 24 Global garment retailers may face feeble market until 2010 Retailers and luxury houses recorded sharp decreases in sales following the world economic downturn, but market research agency was still able to pinpoint bright spots in the consumer market in the West Market Focus 28 Lingerie manufacturing prowess and purchasing power grow in Asia Infirm sales in western lingerie markets are partially offset by growing markets in Asia, which is now more than a global production house Machinery Technology 32 ShanghaiTex 2009 sets textile business in motion This June, ShanghaiTex 2009 will again serve as an important platform for textile machinery builders and users to obtain latest market updates and business opportunities Material Technology 48 Versatile natural fibers fulfill varied market needs Chemical & Auxiliaries 52 Greener offerings embraced in dye and chemical market Dye makers around the world are conducting research into novel dyes that can improve eco-credentials Environmental Watch 20 Recycling fabrics gaining popularity Nonwovens / Specialty Textiles 56 Latest material advances showcased at ISPO Munich China Focus 60 Global textile trade affected by new regulations 64 Dalian rises as a garment city in North China Retail Scene 66 Stage-inspired lingerie previewed in Paris and HK Corporate Profile 72 Crisis management of a leading Indonesian denim maker President of PT APAC Inti Corpora (APAC), a large denim manufacturer in Indonesia, shares his views on the currently changing markets Regular columns 8 Editor's note 10 Industry news 70 Show watcher 74 Company bulletin 76 New product guide 79 Coming events calendar 80 Advertisers' index Cover Advertisement Enquiry code: 101 BASF BASF is the world's leading chemical company. BASF has developed the MOOO>™ brand for polypropylene fibers that incorporate innovative BASF technology. The colorless fiber can be dyed in fabric form by standard processes with disperse dyes. It increases production flexibility and allows vibrant color choices to meet fast-moving market trends. Hong Kong BASF East Asia Regional Headquarters Ltd. 45/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong Email: eve-hk@basf.com Website: www.mooov.basf.com Register now as a member of to enjoy the privileged services awaiting you. ■ Daily Industry News ■ Feature Articles ■ Hot Topics ■ Corporate Interviews ■ Coverage on Business & Technical Conferences, and Exhibitions ■ Virtual Exhibitions ■ Business Information, Business Directory, and many more Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 7Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 8 - Editor's Note JUN / JUL 2009 The 14th International Exhibition on Textile Industry (ShanghaiTex 2009) will soon kick off in Shanghai on June 12-15, serving as the platform of textile trade between international textile machinery builders and buyers from around the world, particularly those from Asian countries and China. This edition of ATA Journal carries this year's ShanghaiTex show preview, introducing a vast number of machine technologies offered by diverse suppliers. In addition to western machinery builders, a number of Chinese suppliers have also geared up to present themselves as competitive players in Asia. Despite the economic challenges this year, the Chinese textile and garment industry remains dynamic and players are upgrading themselves in order to move ahead. Meanwhile, the State Council of China recently announced a new plan to adjust and strengthen the textile and garment industry. Under the plan, sizable textile enterprises will achieve an industrial added value of RMB1,200 billion by 2011; and a total export value of US$240 billion, with an annual growth rate of 8%. The goals will be attained with advanced technology, among other things, presenting opportunities to textile machine suppliers. "Feature Story" in this edition reports on the latest situations in the retail scene. International luxury brands and garment stores are facing quieter time while other retailers have increased in popularity among consumers who are more careful about what they spend on. Intimate wear is the theme of "Market Focus". Innovative bonding technologies are one of the global trends that are welcomed and even expected by consumers. Asian markets' momentum continues to give hopes to international lingerie providers. Additionally, latest designs showcased at the Paris lingerie exhibition early this year are presented in "Retail Scene". Natural fibres are covered in "Material Technology". "Chemicals and Auxiliaries" discusses latest developments among dye and chemical developers; many of them incorporate the concept of sustainability into their products. ATA JOURNAL for Asia on Textile & Apparel is published by Adsale Publishing Limited (a member of the Adsale Group) Address: 6th Floor, 321 Java Road, North Point, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2811 8897 Fax: (852) 2516 5119 Email: cta.ata@adsale.com.hk Web-site(Adsale Group): www.adsale.com.hk Adsale Industry Portal: www.2456.com/ata General Manager: Annie Chu Senior Executive Editor: Naomi Lee Associate Editor: Michelle Phong China Editor: Joany Hao Assistant Editor (China): Amy Xiao Editorial Emails cta.ata.edit@adsale.com.hk cta.ata@sz.adsale.com.hk Contributors Adrian Wilson (Europe) Ajay Sinha (India, Pakistan & Sri Lanka) Asep Setiaharja (S E Asia) Baari Inggi (S E Asia) Gail Taylor (Hong Kong) Ian Holme (Europe) Lucia Carpio (Europe) Manik Mehta (US & Europe) Ngo Tuan (Vietnam) Sanjay Gupta (India) Marketing and Advertising Janet Tong Advertising Sales Offices See page 80 Production Sonia Lai Circulation Circulation Department Publication Frequency 6 times in 2009 Distribution ATA JOURNAL is distributed free to individuals who meet the publisher's registered terms of control. Fill in the reader's form to apply for qualified readership. Subscription Rates (annual incl postage) Hong Kong: HK$455 Asia (surface mail): US$75 All Other Regions (surface mail): US$85 Cover Price: HK$76 / US$13 / US$15 Copyright © 2009 All rights reserved. Reproduction in any form without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publisher is not responsible for statements or opinions expressed herein nor do such statements necessarily express the views of the publisher unless stated as such. Printing Elite Printing (Hong Kong) Co., Ltd.Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 9Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 10 - Industry News East Asia China Export tax rebates for textile and garment exports rise to 16% The State Administration of Taxation of China raised the export tax rebates of commodities to 16% in the fields of textiles, garment, light industries, electronic information, iron and steel, colored metals, petrochemistry and etc. Starting on April 1, the new policy affects 3802 taxable items and is executed based on the dates marked by the Customs Office on export-related documents. Exports drops in first two months this year Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of China found that the Chinese textile industry achieved a profit of RMB 12.4 billion in January and February, down 9.5%. Chinese exports of yarns and textile products reached US$7.29 billion (-20.6%) in the first two months of this year, while those of garments and accessories recorded US$14.62 billion (-11%). Textile machinery sales fall The Chinese customs office announced that textile machinery imports by China reached US$271 million in the first two months of 2009, down 62.42% from the same period of last year, whilst the Chinese exports of textile machinery were worth US$133 million (-47.78%). Between this January and February, the Chinese textile machinery sector recorded a finished production value of RMB6.613 billion (at nominal price level), representing a 16.62% decline from the same period of last year. Value of the goods sold was RMB6.937 billion (-10.65%), whereas profits reached RMB71.1 million (-77.38%). In the sector, about 296 enterprises reported making a total loss of RMB247 million. The authorities also announced that the Chinese textile machinery sector registered 1.07% in a rate of profits divided by total production value (產值利潤率). RMB cross-border trade settlement pilot project announced China's State Council, or Cabinet, announced a pilot program to allow exporters and importers in five cities to settle cross-border trade deals in renminbi (RMB). Except Shanghai is in East China, other four cities are situated in Guangdong province: Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Zhuhai and Dongguan. This April, the Bank of China and the Bank of Communications announced their branches in these cities were ready for the trial operations. The trial operations for cross-border RMB settlement covers trade in steel, chemicals, mechanical equipment and textiles. South East Asia Vietnam Targeting textile and garment exports at US$10 billion in 2009 In a meeting between Vietnamese authorities and Vietnam Textile and Apparel Group (Vinatex), Prime Minister (PM) Nguyen Tan Dung assigned the group to lead the industry in order to attain an annual exports turnover of US$10-10.5 billion this year. The PM expected the country to export textile and garment products worth US$25 billion by 2020. A report of the Minister of Industry and Trade (MOIT) showed that in January this year, the textile andment exports turnover fetched US$550 million, estimating that the turnover of the first two months could be US$1.15 billion, down 12% from the same period last year. In addition, MOIT announced that the textile, garment and footwear industry witnessed a strong decline in exports turnover in the first quarter 2009, following the outbreak of the global economic crisis. The textile and garment industry fetched US$1.903 billion during the period, representing a year-on-year decline of 0.1%. First polyester fibre plant granted investment license Hai Phong city people's committee granted an investment license for PetroVietnam-Vinatex Dinh Vu Synthetic Fiber and Petrochemical Joint Stock Company to implemente its project on building a plant with a daily capacity of 500 tons of fiber in Dinh Vu industrial zone, Hai Phong. Invested with VND5,457 billion or US$313.6 million by PetroVietnam and the Vinatex, with each contributing 50%, this will be the first polyester fiber plant of the country where most fiber and yarn for local textile production are currently imported. According to the investment license, the plant will operate within 48 years and set to start official operation in December 2010, one year earlier than its initial plan set in March 2008. In 2008, Vietnam's textile and garment exports turnover reached US$ 9.1 billion and stood in top 10 exporter of the world, but it still relies heavily on the imported sources of fiber and yarn. The plant has a planned capacity of 500 tons fibers per day. Once commencing its operation, it is expected to meet 40% of total fiber demand of Vietnam. Government supports textile and garment sector Vietnamese government approved a list of solutions supporting the local textile and garment industry in a bid to overcome the present hard situation in exports and production. The government decided to reduce the value added tax (VAT) of imported cotton to 5% from 10%, and to lengthen the expiration time of VAT payment with regard to the imported equipments and out-sourcing contracts.Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 11Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 12 - Industry News Country Focus: China, Taiwan Province Taiwan weighs heavily on R&D to outperform in Asia by Staff Reporters Taiwan's textile sector has developed as a vertically integrated supply chain, with the production of man-made fibers, yarn spinning, weaving and knitting, dyeing and finishing, as well as apparel and accessories. Apart from using materials derived from petrochemicals, the region also imports raw cotton yarns and man-made staple yarns, according to the Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF). The textile industry of Taiwan is highly export-oriented. The export value of textile and apparel products accounts for over 80% of total textile and apparel production in recent years. Data from the Taiwanese Customs office showed that in 2008, the Taiwanese textile trade registered a total export value of US$10.903 billion, down 6% from the previous year; a total import value of US$2.702 billion (+2%); and a trade surplus of US$8.201 billion (-8%). Except miscellaneous textiles that witnessed a 3% growth last year, major textile and apparel products exported by Taiwan namely fibers, yarns, fabrics, and garment & accessories recorded declines by 18%, 13%, 2% and 7% respectively compared to the previous year. In 2008, imports of fibers and yarns dropped by 2% and 6% respectively last year, but imports of fabrics, garment & accessories, and miscellaneous textiles reported growths of 8%, 4% and 3% respectively. Geographically, China is the largest export destination for Taiwan, followed by Hong Kong, Vietnam, USA and the EU. Half of Taiwanese exports in this category to USA were garment and accessories, and the rest were mainly fabrics. Fabrics were the primary textile goods exported by Taiwan, representing about 70% of total textile and garment exports to Hong Kong and Vietnam, and 65% and 34% of those to China and the EU respectively. Taiwan witnessed a decline trend in its textile and garment exports in the last four months of 2008, down 19% from the same period of the previous year. The decline went steeper last December, following the global economic downturn, the TTF says. Anticipating a gloomy economic outlook at home and abroad in 2009, the administration in Taiwan launched measures to stimulate its economy early this year, including an expansion of public investment (and thus domestic demand). Innovation offsets insufficient natural resources Taiwanese textile and garment players continue focusing on innovation, research and development, and design services, in addition to strengthening their capabilities as original design manufacturers (ODMs) and original brand manufacturers (OBMs). Vigilant of limitations in the domestic environment (e.g. insufficient natural resources for textile production) and vigorous international competition, they have shifted the focus to higher value textile and garment products for years. The TTF explains that Taiwanese textile developers have earned their reputation in the global supply chain with engineered man-made fibers that deliver value-added functionality, featuring improved performance, e.g. antibacterial textiles for general and medical uses, electromagnetic shielding textiles, moisture transferring and quick drying textiles, as well as special textiles with wrinkle-free, UV-protective, antistatic, water- and/or oil-repellent, and flame resistant properties. Eco-friendliness is also a buzzword for them, who have invested heavily in the development of eco-friendly textile products using organic fiber sources and recycled materials, for instance. Some early developers in this respect include Far Eastern Textile Ltd, Formosa Taffeta, Chi Heir Group, Everest Textile and Tai Yuen Textile. These enterprises have improved the eco-efficiency in terms of the manufacturing process and/or fiber source with the assistance of the Institute for Marketecology (IMO), Bluesign Technologies, Control Union Certifications and etc, the TTF explains. Items Value (US$ million) Percentage of total % change from 2007 Volume (‘000 tons) Percentage of total Unit price (US$/kg) % change from 2007 Fibers 968 9 -18 519.2 -21 1.87 4 Yarns 1970 18 -13 767.2 -20 2.57 10 Fabrics 6625 61 -2 1063.1 -11 6.23 10 Garment & accessories 971 9 -7 55 -16 17.64 11 Miscellaneous textiles 369 3 3 96.5 -7 3.83 11 Total 10903 100 -6 2501 -16 4.36 12 Textile and garment exports from Taiwan in 2008 (Source: TTF) Items Value (US$ million) Percentage of total % change from 2007 Volume (‘000 tons) Percentage of total Unit price (US$/kg) % change from 2007 Woven fabrics 2494 38 -4 402.4 -11 6.2 8 Knitted fabrics 1616 24 -2 239.5 -11 6.75 10 Specialty fabrics 2515 38 0.1 421.2 -11 5.97 13 Total 6625 100 -2 1063.1 -11 6.23 10 Breakdown of fabric exports from Taiwan in 2008 (Source: TTF) Key exporting markets by rank Value (US$ million) Percentage of total % change from 2007 China 2112 19 -6 Hong Kong 1750 16 -15 Vietnam 1261 12 4 USA 1146 11 -12 EU 592 5 8 Total of 5 key markets 68.61 63 -7 Major exporting markets of Taiwanese textile and garment sector in 2008 (Source: TTF)Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 13 - Industry News As more textile and garment factories closed down, the Vietnamese government agreed to provide support to the industry in a ratio of VND40 per US$1 exports value (exchange rate: US$1 = VND17,400). In other words, exports value of US$1 million would be given support of VND 40 million from the government. This aimed to help existing enterprises retain their operations. The government also assigned the State Bank to lend Vinatex with US$15 million to import cotton for reservation in one year with a preferential rate. Uniqlo to buy more Vietnamese garment The Association of Garment Textile Embroidery and Knitting (AGTEK) of Ho Chi Minh City reported that Uniqlo under Fast Retailing in Japan planned to visit Vietnam and work with 50 good garment makers in Ho Chi Minh City in recent months in a bid to seek for more suppliers. The visit aimed to exploit the Vietnam-Japan Economic Partnership Agreement that has generated various favorable conditions for Vietnamese textile and garment exports to Japan. According to the AGTEK, Japanese traders are shifting partially their orders to Vietnam from China due to the presence of preferential taxation in importing the textile and garment from Vietnam. The MOIT said that the textile and garment exports turnover to the US and EU suffered declines while those to Japan kept good growths in the first two months 2009. In 2008, the exports turnover to Japan reached US$820 million, representing a year-on-year rise of 16%. JASTA seeking co-operation with Vitas This February, a delegation of the Japan Association of Specialists in Textiles and Apparel (JASTA) visited Hanoi and worked with the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (Vitas) for the discussion of a joint agreement in developing the Vietnam-Japan Economic Partnership Agreement (VJEPA). The VJEPA, effective beginning 2009, is favorable to Vietnamese textile and garment exporters when exporting to Japan, especially the zero export tax on textile and garment products from Vietnam to Japan. Japan is the third largest exporting market of Vietnam-made textile and garment products, worth about US$800 million in 2008, after the US and EU. At the meeting, president of Vitas, Le Quoc An, proposed the Japanese textile and garment enterprises to develop the textile and garment materials in Vietnam. His proposal included two major propositions: (i) JASTA will support its Japanese enterprises to invest into textile factories in Vietnam, especially the products of fibre, yarn, fabric and other materials; (ii) the Japanese trading companies will bring more materials to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnamese side also requested Japanese partners to consider supporting the Vietnamese industry in the areas of human resources and fashion design.Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 14 - Industry News Vintex Mart to be equitized The Vietnamese government approved to take to the stock exchange Vinatex Fashion Trading Company (Vinatex Mart) - one of the biggest fashion traders under the Vinatex in the country. The company explained the equitization would provide favorable conditions for it to increase the product offerings made domestically and expand its existing large network nationwide. The Vinatex Mart is currently a state-owned company under the Vinatex group. The equitization is included in a master plan laid down by the Vinatex. Indonesia Domestic demand booms with general election Vice Chairman of API Jabar (Indonesian Textile Association of West Java), Ade Sudradjat, said that the slowdown of textile and clothing exports can be offset by increase of domestic sales due to the participation of more political parties and change of general election. He said that companies received orders from political parties participating in the general election 2009 worth at least Rp1.2 trillion this year. The value of the order for the general election needs is likely to increase up to Rp5 trillion, Benny Soetrisno, Chairman of the Indonesian Textile Association predicted. Jackets, T-shirts, hats, flags and banners are intensely demanded by political parties and individual candidate of the parliament in Indonesia. A number of fabric traders in Surabaya, East Java, reported sales rises up to 70% since the end of 2008, particularly for imported fabrics. Mr Ade continued saying that textile and clothing industries will receive more orders at home by the emergence of presidential instruction No. 2/2009 regarding the increase of locally made product (P3DN). Government allocates funding for restructuring program The Industry Ministry in Indonesia opened the registration for textile machinery restructuring program period 2009 by allocating IDR240 billion. Based on the ministry observation, at least 100 companies would be interested to join the program. Anshari Bukhari, General Director of various industry, textile and machinery (ILMTA) at the Industry Ministry said that the priority of the program is for companies whose existing machines are over 20 years old and they have plans to purchase new machines in the period between July 1, 2008 and November 2009. "Given the global ecoomic crisis, this is the right momentum for long-term investment," he said. The mechanism of the program in two schemes is similar to those in previous years. The first scheme (with a funding of Rp213 billion) assists large-scale textile enterprises in the form of paying 10% of the total purchase of new machines. The rest of the funding amounted Rp27 billion in the second scheme will subsidise the interest loan of the industry's small and mid-size enterprises (SMEs). If locally made equipment is purchased, the government will subsidise 15% from the total purchasing, no more than Rp5 billion for each company. Chairman of the Indonesian Textile Association, Benny Soetrisno, said that the textile restructuring program is crucial to local enterprise so that they are well prepared when the external demand picks up after the global financial crisis is over. Three national companies planned to invest in machinery to boost production. South Pacific Viscose (SPV) in Purwakarta, West Java, will invest US$100 billion this year and Sri Rejeki Isman (Sritex) in Solo Central Java plans to invest US$25 million in machinery. APAC Inti is also interested in purchasing new textile machinery. A further report on APAC Inti is covered in Corporate Profile column on page 72. Total number of workers rises despite lay-offs By this February, about 5,000 workers were laid off and 18,000 had to take temporary holidays, according to Vice Chairman of the Indonesian Textile Association, Ade Sudradjat. Meanwhile, about 50,000 workers entered into the industry in 2008 as a consequence of investment amounted Rp4 trillion. Thus, the total number of workers working in the Indonesian textile and clothing industry increased. Chairman of Indonesian Entrepreneur Association of West Java (Apindo) Jabar, Dedi Wijaya, added that although textile exports declined, the local market with a population of more than 280 million people represents a large potential. Mr Ade explained that the decline in orders started to happen in October 2008, especially for SMEs, which are featured with low efficiency, limited market access and poor management. Larger companies were able to leverage on such advantages as good quality product, competitive price and on-time delivery to keep their businesses going. Exports forecast to drop this year Speaking at a seminar relating to the Indonesia Japan Economic Partnership Agreement (IJEPA), Industry Minister, Fahmi Idris, said that textile and clothing exports this year is likely to drop due to the decrease of international demand. "We have no idea about the figure this year, but after a number of discussions with exporters, it is estimated that the figure will be above US$8 billion this year," he said. Textile and clothing exports reached US$10.83 billion in 2008. He said that the Indonesian textile and clothing industry is facing challenges such as low external demand, limited working capital, low efficiency due to aged machinery, and unavoidable labour lay-offs. Advisor of the Indonesian Textile Association, Benny Benyamin, said that the local industry needs to explore alternative market destinations in the home country to offset overseas export declines. Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 15 - Industry News South Asia India Mixed feelings towards global recession The global economic recession has affected Asian garment exporters, and Indian garment exporters pointed to a looming crisis. Managing Director of Gokaldas Exports, Rajan Hinduja said:"The global recession has hit orders and price realisation. Our quarterly turnover is down from Rs 300 crore to Rs 250 crore. We might manage but others cannot. Orders are going to Vietnam and Bangladesh, which have lower labour costs." Other manufacturers point to a more complex situation. They say that orders are down by 15% over the last four or five months, and could fall further as the recession deepens in the US. But A-grade vendors, categorised on the basis of manufacturing practices rather than pricing, will grab a greater share of the reduced order flow. At present, these units account for 30%-40% of exports, and 25% of the total number of apparel export units. The rest, particularly small-scale units, may be pushed to the wall. Already hit by underutilisation of capacity, these small units may face threat of closure. Nonetheless, Bangalore, one of India's major apparel export centres, reported remaining intact so far. According to officials in the state textiles and handlooms department in India, the order booking in the area looks comfortable at least till this April, if not July. Says Nirmala Rani, Deputy General Manager (HR), in Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd, which is a Rs 1,500-crore turnover company: "We are able to cope with the situation. There was a slowdown in work between July and September last year, but after December the situation seems to have improved." Buyers' low prices impact Indian apparel exporters Indian apparel exporters working with large international retailers found business to have shrunk 10%-12% in recent months. Exporters like Gokaldas Exports and Kaytee Corporation are busy finding ways to beat the recession. Gokaldas, which works with large global retailers like Gap, Nike, JC Penney and Wal-Mart, is staring at a 10%-20% dip in exports as its clients have severely cut down their sourcing in India. Kaytee's exports are down 10%-12% after one of its largest clients, Steve & Barry, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in the US. During the months early this year, apparel companies in India pruned cost, increased efficiency and productivity, and managed to trim flab across the cost chain. On other hand, some buyers are turning their attention to countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam so that they manage to sell their end apparel products at low margins. Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 16 - Industry News Collaboration with brands S Kumars Nationwide (SKNL), an Indian textile and apparel firm, was close to forming a joint venture (JV) with global fashion brand DKNY, in order to ensure more than half of its revenue from the JV, sources said this March. A person close to the development said that the two firms were in final stages of discussion. The broad contours of the deal, he said, suggest that SKNL may pick up the majority stake in the JV, which may exclusively procure textiles worth over US$250 million. The JV may have the right to appoint all future franchisees of DKNY, a brand owned by the French luxury corporation Louis Vuitton. The financial contribution of the parties would be linked to their equity ownership. When asked, a senior SKNL official neither denied nor confirmed the development citing confidentiality. If the deal goes through, SKNL may be the sole supplier to over 70 DKNY stores globally, including 20 in China, two in Canada and four in Dubai, said the sources. The JV could also lead to the entry of DKNY stores in India. Currently, DKNY does not have significant presence in the Indian sub-continent. The JV would mean that it can penetrate in South East Asia, especially in India and neighbouring counties. This February, SKNL announced through its fashion retail arm, Brand House, the joint venture with Italy's leading apparel brand, Oviesse. Brand House manages exclusive stores of four brands: Reid & Taylor, Stephens Brothers, Belmonte, and Carmichael House. Middle East market is targeted Textile and apparel major, the Raymond Group, is optimistic with the Middle East and SAARC markets and plans to expand its network in these regions. SAARC stands for the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation. "We plan to expand our footprint internationally with a special focus on the Middle East. Our plan is to increase our‘The Raymond Shop’network in the Middle East/SAARC from the present 35 to 50 by 2012," said Gautam Hari Singhania, Chairman and Managing Director of the Raymond Group. He commented that 24 out of the existing 35 overseas stores are located in the Middle East, "indicating the region's importance in our scheme of things." Presently, the Middle East/SAARC markets contribute 37% to the total international business of the Raymond Group, which plans to push upward the rate to 45% in the future. Several other key Indian textile players have also tried to look for new markets, where exports could beat the meltdown blues. Pakistan Industry associations propose ideas Leading textile-related export associations of Pakistan asked the Ministry of Textile and Federal Board of Revenue (FBR) to abolish the customs duty on the import of textile/weaving and stitching machinery etc, among other requests including massive changes in customs tariff and revision of the Temporary Importation Scheme. Some export associations also proposed revamping of licensing of freight forwarders rules to monitor their activities to avoid misuse. Other suggestions included changes in procedures for "analysis certificates" requirements; issuance of bank guarantees/indemnity bonds; relaxation of conditions in the Temporary Importation Scheme and proper adoption of the harmonised customs tariff schedules. The Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA) proposed to the government reduction of customs duty under SRO.575(I)/2006 from 5% to zero on the import of textile machinery for spinning, weaving, processing, stitching and knitting. It also suggested 5% concessionary duty on the import of spare parts of the textile industry, as well as duty reduction from 20% to 10% on import of sodium hydroxide caustic soda in the coming budget. The Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers and the Exporters Association (PRGMEA) emphasized the importance of zero customs duty on the temporary imports of buttons, denim and other items. It also proposed new procedures for release of bank guarantee, indemnity bonds along with post dated cheques under the Temporary Importation Scheme (SRO.1065(I)/2005) and etc. Concessionary rate of 5% duty on the import of 100% polyester filament yarn, poly/viscous yarn, acrylic yarn and mixed yarn was proposed by the Pakistan Silk and Rayon Mills Association. Keeping ties with USA Founder Chairman of US-Pakistan Business Council and former President of FPCCI, Iftikhar Ali Malik appreciated the role of business counterparts in the United States for lobbying with the Washington administration and convincing to cut tariff on Pakistan textiles. The US-Pakistan Business Council helped encourage and facilitate the co-operation in trade investment to promote trade between Pakistan and USA. Mr Malik considered that stronger economic ties with Pakistan would help advance America's geopolitical goals in South Asia. Economically stronger Pakistan would be in the best interest of the USA and the whole world also due to its strategic position, he remarked. Shipments held up The Pakistan's textile industry suffered a loss of Rs 960 million in recent months due to the delay in clearance of shipments in Russia and other countries. Reliable sources told that 200 containers, carrying textile consignments from Pakistan, were stranded in Russia, European Union (EU) countries and America. Each container is carrying textile goods worth approximately US$30,000. The containers were stranded in the EU countries and America due to the refusal of companies to offload the Pakistani textile products under the economic recession. For the clearance of shipments held up inAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 17Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 18 - Industry News Russia, an exporter told: "Up till now, we have paid Rs 960 million as demurrage to Russia." He said: "But we are hopeful that our containers stranded in Russia would be released soon because the value of the Russian ruble appreciated by 20%. Earlier, Russian ruble had depreciated by 40% against the US dollar." Power issue discussed The textile sector in Pakistan, in a joint meeting of its associations, decided to constitute a joint working committee that would effectively address prevailing problems of the textile industry, especially power load shedding. Acting Chairman, Javaid Shafiq Siddiqi from the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), chaired the meeting. Attendees included representatives from the Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA), the Pakistan Cotton Power Looms Association (PCPLA), the All Pakistan Textiles Sizing Industries Association (APSIA), and the Council of Loom Owners Faisalabad, as well as some from related segments including hosiery. The participants decided to urge the government to take immediate steps necessary for the survival of the industry, including rationalisation and reduction of electricity tariffs; immediate withdrawal of all pending determinations of National Electric Power Regulatory Authority (NEPRA) for all distribution companies (DISCOs) for the textile industry, in addition to the control of power load shedding. The textile production capacity of various sub-sectors in the country dropped 20%-30% as a result of the global economic downturn, according to industry estimates. Sri Lanka Green firm appreciated by Europe The impressive environmentally friendly indicators achieved by the Brandix Eco Centre resulted in the Brandix Group being adjudged the National Winner for Sri Lanka, and being named one of three nominees for the Energy Globe World Award in the air category at the award presentation in Prague, Czech Republic, as the opening event of the European Environmental Ministers Meeting in Prague this April. The event was viewed by three billion television audiences globally. "This recognition in front of a truly global audience is as important for Sri Lanka as it is for Brandix," said Ashroff Omar, CEO of the Brandix Group. "It shows that despite of tough world economic conditions and domestic conflicts, there are manufacturers in Sri Lanka who remain committed to ideals and standards," he said. The Brandix Green Factory, which is the highest-rated platinum-Certified Green apparel manufacturing plant in the world under the Leadership in Energy and Environment Design (LEED) systems, reduced carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions to the atmosphere by 80%, Sulfur Dioxide (SO2) emissions by 71% and Nitrogen Oxides (NO2) by 92%. It achieved an energy saving of 46%, reduced potable water use by 70% and also documented that almost all of the site-generated solid waste is recycled. Export may further drop Apparel exporters of Sri Lanka expected a deeper impact of the world financial crisis on exports would be felt with a significant reduction in orders from the United States and the European Union in the coming months (by second half of 2009). Exports to the EU increased 6% while those to the US markets dropped 2% in early 2009. Export demand in January did not show the full picture due to prior orders but there would be a sharp decrease hereafter as the global crisis intensifies, exporters commented. Thus, apparel manufacturers imposed severe job cuts and reduced production to face the economic crisis, which was predicted to take over a year to ease off. Sri Lanka's Central Bank in its external sector performance report for January 2009 said despite a challenging year, exports of textile and garments for January were encouraging as they grew by 4.5%. The Bank said that the trade deficit contracted by 66.5% this January, year-on-year to US$208 million, led by low trade volumes. Exports declined 11.6% to US$491 million, and imports decreased 40.5% to US$699 million in the first month of this year. Overall exports declined 5.2% to US$385 million. While exporters accepted that the export drops were caused by the global economic crisis, the over-valued Sri Lankan rupee was considered an obstacle for the country's export competitiveness. Bangladesh Garment sector benefits with low-cost production The Bangladesh ready-made garments (RMG) sector was among the few not to feel the chill due to the global economic downturn. The RMG sector recorded US$6.05 billion in export earnings during the first half of the current fiscal year (2008-09), registering a 24.18% growth. The chief of the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) of Bangladesh ruled out any fallout from the global credit crunch on the country's garments exports after its two main items, woven and knitwear, registered 44.66% growth in the first quarter of the current fiscal year. Industry players explained that Bangladesh is experiencing a "Walmart effect", i.e. as consumers have less income, they are trading down to cheaper clothes. Bangladesh is able to gain more orders from overseas buyers, thanks to its reputation for producing cheap products. There are, however, hidden risks. First, buyers placing large volumes of orders demanded for cheaper prices as well as trade discounts. Bangladeshi factories had to provide discounts ranging 5%-15%, as well as reduced quoted prices. This led to some factories accepting orders at cost level or even lower so as to keep their facilities running. Second, Bangladesh's RMG exporters face a number of internal hurdles. The country does not have sufficient backward linkages, and most of the raw materialsAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 19Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 20 - Environmental Watch Recycling fabrics gaining popularity by Michelle Phong Textile recycling refers to the reusing or reprocessing post-consumer clothing, pre-consumer fibrous materials from the manufacturing process, and other materials, e.g. used PET bottles. Clothing and fabric generally consists of composites of biodegradable natural fibers and un-biodegraded synthetic plastics. Methods of recycling depend on what kinds of fabrics, blends or materials involved. In the UK alone, about two million tones (or ₤23 billion) of clothing are purchased per annum, with the fast/discount fashion sector (characterized by low-cost, short lifetime garments) making up one-fifth of the UK market, according to the UK Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA). In a report published this February, DEFRA mentioned that about 1.5-2 million tones of clothing are disposed each year in the UK, with 16% recovered and the remainder (over 1.2 million tonnes) destined for landfill. Recycling offers both environmental and economic benefits as it lowers the need for landfill space, the UK Waste Watch says. In particular, textiles present problems in landfill, as synthetic products do not decompose, while woollen garments produce global-warming contributor methane when decomposing. Subsequently, recycling helps reduce the use of virgin resources, pollution (e.g. effluent) and energy consumption. Recycling represents a key component in the realm of sustainability, and it is relatively underdeveloped. Those appealed by the idea of making recycled/recyclable fabrics, however, have found their way. Taiwan and Japan developing recycled fabrics Taiwanese manufacturers have worked on recycled fabrics development for about a decade. Its green fabric development will be under the spotlight at the Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show (TITAS 2009) in Taipei on October 15-17 this year. The Bluesign-approved Ever Recycle of Everest Textile is produced from 100% recycled polyester, such as used polyester bottles and old clothes / fabrics. In addition to being the same as fabrics made from virgin polyester, the product is said to feature added functions for breathability, quick dry and water repellence. Libolon, a brand jointly developed by Li Peng and Lea Lea, includes two series of eco product into the product family, namely RePET and Ecoya. RePET is a polyester yarn series made from recycled PET bottles, while Ecoya is a colored yarn series made by injecting various specific pigments into the polymer during the spinning process. Recycled PET fabrics are also being developed and promoted by humanitarian groups in Taiwan, such as Tzu Chi recycled PET fabrics. Tzu Chi brand is owned by the Tzu Chi International Humanitarian Aid Association (TIHAA). Additionally, Nan Ya Plastics Corporation has developed the technology of producing high quality polyester fiber, EcoGreen, through the recycled PET bottles. The Taiwan Textile Research Institute (TTRI) estimated that fabric made from recycled PET bottles is priced at more than NT$120 (US$3.87) per kilogram. The TTRI also observed that recycled polyester fabrics are gaining popularity among international retailers and apparel brands. Another example is set by Teijin Group based in Japan. Teijin Group launched this March the Ecopet yarn made from recycled PET drink bottles and a resulting Eco-a-wear fabric. Teijin, through Eco-a-wear, is introducing the first ecologically friendly polyester and wool blend fabric in the world, the company said. Made from recycled plastic bottles and blended with wool, the fabric is elegant, soft to the touch and wrinkle resistant. Other Eco-a-wear products include blends with viscose and cotton or 100% fully recycled polyester. It took Teijin two years to perfect Eco-a-wear before it is brought to market, showing the commitment of the company in environmental protection. "Interest in sustainability has grown with the consumer more aware about waste output," said Moses Cohen, Business Development and Project Manager at N.I. Teijin Shoji (USA) Inc. Patagonia targets to recycle all apparel by 2010 US-based Patagonia has stepped further and built a recycling system of polyester fabrics to confine the environmental impact of fabric making. In its recent report of "Closing the Loop - A Report on Patagonia's Common Threads Garment Recycling Program" publicized this March, Patagonia shared experiences accumulated since the launch of the Common Threads program in fall 2005. This program, as part of the company's efforts to reduce its environmental footprint, invites customers to return used-upAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 21 - Environmental Watch clothing and delivers the retired garments to a fiber manufacturer that uses those items to make new products. Meanwhile, not yet fully worn-out garment should be donated, rather than being recycled. Patagonia started using recycled fibers in 1993, when Synchilla fleece made from recycled polyester was introduced. The company currently uses recycled polyester in many applications. It also includes recycled nylon and recycled wool in its product line. The Common Threads program launched for the first time in 2005 a recyclable Capilene garment with the help of Teijin Inc from Japan, which developed Eco-Circle, the closed-loop, garment-to-garment recycling process for the Capilene underwear. Patagonia set up a reverse-distribution system to collect retired garments from customers and send them to Teijin for recycling. To confirm that recycling would cause less environmental harm than transporting used-up garments across the Pacific, Patagonia conducted an analysis of the Common Threads process to calculate the energy and carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions for turning garments into recycled polyester versus using petroleum-derived feedstock to make virgin polyester. It found that making DMT (dimethyl terephthalate, the precursor material to polyester in Teijin's process) from Patagonia Capilene uses 76% less energy and emits 42% less CO2 than making it from petroleum. The CO2 savings jumps to 77% if the garment is incinerated rather than recycled. This confirmed that closed-loop recycling considerably reduces environmental harm. In spring of 2007, Patagonia expanded the Common Threads Recycling Program to accept 100%-cotton T-shirts, Patagonia fleece, as well as Polartec fleece from any brand. In 2008, the company began labeling clothes that are recyclable through Common Threads with instructions for return at the end of useful product life, including Capilene, fleece, T-shirts, as well as some board shorts and polyester jackets. The retailer also launched the first recyclable nylon waterproof/breathable shell, which was developed with Toray of Japan. Patagonia explained that the garment recycling processes at Teijin and Toray entail chemical recycling, in which materials are chemically dissolved to their precursor chemicals. The advantage of chemical recycling is that color and small impurities can be removed and the resulting recycled fiber is almost the same as virgin fiber. Each season the company tracks the number of recyclable styles as a percentage of all Patagonia products. Each style is treated equally. With different product lines in the fall and spring seasons, they are compared separately. In fall 2008, 45% of Patagonia's product line was recyclable. For Fall 2009, it will be 65%. In spring 2008, 28% of its products were recyclable; for spring 2009 it has increased to 38%, according to Patagonia. The company reported that it is working to meet the 2010 goal: to make all Patagonia products recyclable through the Common Threads Garment Recycling Program. "It is not yet possible to source all of our synthetic fiber as recycled because of special yarn sizes and characteristics that we require for some applications... It is unlikely we will make all products recyclable by 2010, but possibly all apparel. We will continue to strive for 100% recyclability even after 2010," said Todd Copeland who handles Common Threads Material Development & Environmental Assessment of Raw Materials. Some challenging clothing items yet to be recyclable are, for instance, down-filled garments, shells with polyurethane barriers, and fabrics with high spandex content. More hurdles include how to sort and remove unrecycled items (e.g. trims) from recyclable items (e.g. down insulation), and cost consideration, Patagonia added. So far, the company has recycled more than 6,000 kg of garments, and collected much more since 2005. It is committed to taking end-of-life responsibility for its products, so it may consider mechanically recycling or downcycling products for which chemical recycling capability does not exist. "Using recycled fibers is often more expensive, and Patagonia is willing to invest a reasonable amount for developing more environmentally-friendly products. Patagonia continually strives to reduce the impact of our products and our customers expect this type of responsible behaviour," said Mr Copeland. Caption: Collected Patagonia garments (above) are sorted and processed into recycled poly pellets Benchmarking recycled fabrics Besides, Control Union Certifications took the lead to introduce Global Recycle Standard in November 2008. The standard specifies in accordance with three major principles: • Traceability: transport, control of incoming products, administration (e.g. documentation), quality control; • Environment management; and • Social responsibility (workers' health and safety, rights, and training). Finished or half-finished products containing recycled raw material can label products as "Global Recycle Standard" product, which is categorized based on the amount of pre- and/or post-consumer recycled raw material the product contains. This amount is expressed in a percentage with a minimum of 5%, according to Control Union Certifications. Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 22 - Environmental Watch Carbon emissions discussed at Prime Source Forum Carbon emissions and other sustainability-related issues were placed on the agenda at this year's Prime Source Forum, held in Hong Kong early this April. Speakers at the forum agreed on the growing importance of sustainability in the global textile and garment supply chain, following the mounting awareness among consumers. Alice Cohen from the British Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) at the unit of EU & International Sustainable Consumption and Production told ATA Journal that the UK government launched a sustainable clothing action plan at the recent London Fashion Week early this year, involving about 30 organizations, companies and overseas partners, including Marks and Spencer, Nike and Tesco. Sustainable clothing refers to those products that maximize its benefits while minimizing disadvantages not limited to the environment, but can also include other aspects that help a business develop sustainably (i.e. capable of developing in the long run). Both retailers and manufacturers (particularly those with dyeing and laundering facilities) can contribute to reduction of carbon (CO2) emissions in logistics and manufacturing processes, according to Jacqui Dixon, Director of CSR Asia. Dr John R Easton, at the DyStar Textiles Services (Ecology Solutions) of DyStar UK Limited, identified key drivers of sustainability clothing: laws (e.g. REACH), labels, and logos for presentation. There are challenges, however. Dr Easton observed that the textile and garment supply chain is lengthy and complex with different languages among various communities along the textile and apparel supply chain. Future approaches may lie in the areas of tracing and reporting, accountability, and benchmarking. What the industry will need include a framework, partners (in the industry) and a concerted communicative language in the pursuit of sustainability. He expected the industry to move from making and following restricted substances lists to the seek of eco-efficiency; for instance, how much quantity of wastes is generated in manufacturing a unit of fabrics, and how effectively can a user reduce wastes from that level through resource optimization. Ms Dixon from the CSR Asia said that a partnership approach between retailers and manufacturers is essential so that it will not serve as a pleasing policy. Last but not the least comes the consideration of cost. Although consumers in developed countries in general show a higher level of awareness and preference in sustainable clothing, it may take time for them to get ready to pay the pollution caused in manufacturing clothes they buy and wear. Dr Easton added that questions like who picks up the bill and who takes home the reward deserve more thoughts. A further report on more eco-efficient chemicals are covered in Chemicals and Auxiliary column on page 52. Eco-friendly finishing solutions presented At Huntsman, social and environmental responsibility is a founding philosophy based on the platform of Responsible Care. Innovations are designed to be sustainable - by minimizing inputs whilst maximizing benefits. At the China Interdye 2009 this April, Huntsman Textile Effects introduced a number of eco-friendly finishing solutions, including the DuPont Capstone products, Gentle Power Bleach and Silpure. Stefan Koebrich, Regional Technical Manager, Pretreatment & Whiteners, Asia Pacific, Huntsman Textile Effects said: "Innovation and eco-friendliness are interlocking in Huntsman's continuous R&D efforts. We are committed to offering energy-saving and eco-friendly solutions so as to achieve environmentally responsible manufacturing process in the textile and garment sector. This will help our clients deliver maximum performance, yet at less investment costs and with minimal environmental footprint on Earth." Caption: From left: Sharon Chung, Pascal Renger, Stefan Koebrich and Helen Ke from Huntsman Europe promotes sustainable apparel consumption The European Commission and the European retail sector launched a Retail Forum as part of their drive to promote more environmentally sustainable consumption patterns this March. Meanwhile, the Retailers' Environmental Action Plan (REAP) was launched. The forum aimed to generate a better understanding of the practical measures needed to promote sustainable consumption and production. Over time the result should be greater availability of environment-friendly and energy-efficient products in shops and better information to consumers on how to use products (e.g. apparel) in the most ecological way. Representative of the European Retail Round Table (ERRT), Pierre-Olivier Beckers from, President and CEO, Delhaize Group, commented: "Despite the very difficult economic climate, the move towards sustainable consumption will only deepen and accelerate... Indeed, the younger generation of consumers and of our staff associates are even more demanding in terms of what they want us to do. They will keep the pressure on us into the future, a pressure we accept and welcome." Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 23Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 24 - Feature Story Global garment retailers may face feeble market until 2010 International garment retail industry, especially mid- to high-end segments, as well as luxury brands, are impacted by the weak world economy. This may help manufacturers discern the globe’s garment demand this and next years, Lucia Carpio reports Facing a global credit crunch which has seen even the most well-to-do consumers cutting back on their discretionary spending, fashion businesses are re-engineering their business strategies to help them tackle the new market realities and seeking directions to optimise the balance between cost and value while offering quality to their customers. While the world's heads of governments have been drawing up economic measures to rescue the global financial system, good news has been thin on the ground for the textile and fashion industry. In April, in the same week as the London G20 summit announced a US$1 trillion economic booster package for the world's economies, the Italian fashion association - Altagamma - in Milan announced that there is no recovery insight for the luxury market before 2010, and also suggested the US$230 billion fashion and luxury goods industry is set to shrink this year. The Italian fashion association predicts an 8.7% fall in sales for luxury clothing, a 6.2% drop in shoe and accessories sales, a 4.8% decline in perfume and cosmetics sales and a 12.2% fall in jewellery and watch sales. Altagamma chairman, Leonardo Ferragamo, says there is need for new strategies and reforms, as "the crisis is the deepest and most violent our generations have ever experienced." Altagamma revealed that the US will be hardest hit with the sales drop estimated at 14.8%. Japan will also suffer with sales predicted to fall 11.7%. In Europe, annual sales of luxury goods are likely to decline by 8.8% this year. Asia and the Middle East, both strongly growing markets are expected to be better off with declines of 2.3% and 2.1%. Clothing sales will fall 10.6% in the first six months this year. The decline will slow to 7.8% in the second half. As Muriel Zingraff, senior adviser for retail, luxury goods and fashion at investment firm Oaktree Capital Management, had put it, "We are entering times where consumers are either looking for bargain or for investment pieces". The lack of liquidity and the shortage of credit from banks has inevitably affected the purchasing power of retailers. At the recent key fashion trade events and fashion week shows in Europe, it was noticeable that retailers were sending smaller buying teams, if at all, and buyers were cautious in their selections. As one buyer from Moscow had put it, those brands that have been too expensive and did not spend money on advertising, and those suppliers who are not on time with their delivery would be suffering most. Some like Armand Hadida of the L'Eclaireur stores in Paris, said they were reducing their buys this season. In Italy, which is heavily dependent on fashion for its economy and international status, lagging sales have been affecting the industry. Italy's minister of economic development, Claudio Scajola, has announced the "first interventions" are set in place to resuscitate the fashion sector, just as it has done for its motor and home appliance industries. Timely news for companies like IT Holding, where administrators had been appointed for its Ittierre unit that distributes goods for brands like Gianfranco Ferré, Versace and Cavalli. While the downturn in the world economy has forced businesses to seek new directions, the market is contracting amid tougher competition. Carole Woodhead, chief executive of Hermes home delivery courier company, said that the difficult economic climate has left many fashion businesses to streamline their operations. "With margins squeezed, companies need to seek new ways of creating a competitive advantage and add value for customers," she said. The challenge is to get the right balance between creativity, perceived value, price and quality. Versace is reviving its diffusion lower-priced Versus line, while Valentino announced it had bought Vionnet, the historic French fashion house, with plans to grow it as a niche brand. For many Italian fabric producers, upholding the "Made in Italy" label that stands for quality is important for stopping the sliding sales. Managing Director of Gruppo Albini, Silvio Albini said that quality and innovation research are the answers. Caption: Leonardo Ferragamo (Photo: Altagamma)Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 25 - Feature Story "We are facing a deep crisis and the end is not in sight. Without being influenced by negative economic situations, we are investing constantly in customer services, product research and innovation," said Mr Albini. The group took the opportunity at the Milano Unica and the Paris Premiere Vision trade fairs respectively to introduce its premium new shirting fabric in two-fold 300s under the brand Cullinan and organic twill fabrics in two-fold 100s. Another Italian mill, Canclini, also emphasised its "ultra-modern technology in innovation" with its sophisticated Egyptian cotton also in two-fold 300s featuring classic weaves. India's fabric mill, Raymond, has also chosen to highlight its innovative and pioneering capabilities to distinguish themselves from competitors. It strives to be known as the first textile company not only in India, but ahead of Europe and Japan to produce Super 140s worsted fabric for suiting using 11.6 micron wool. The Chairman and Managing Director, Gautam Hari Singhania, said the company is poised to become a global player and has entered into joint ventures with Italian manufacturer Gruppo Zambaiti and with Belgian denim company UCO to create synergies in sourcing, manufacturing and marketing. While European labels are returning to their core values, department stores have to rework their strategies to win shoppers. Caption: Luxury clothing facing challenges in current economic toughness (Photo: Harvey Nichols) Department stores rework strategies Chief Executive Joseph Wan of Harvey Nichols, the luxury department store group said recently at a retail conference in London that it has suffered a "sudden" and "significant" drop in sales following the banking crash. "A lot of wealth has evaporated and cannot be replaced overnight. The total consumption pool has shrunk since last year. We must adapt," he added. As the group's commercial profits is expected to fall by 40% this year, and in view of the declining value of the pound, it has launched a new marketing campaign to appeal to shoppers. Commercial director, Patrick Hanly revealed there is a change to how people are spending their money. "The top end of our business is holding up (what we call the top designer end) but it's the lower end - T-shirts, jeans and casualwear that is not doing so well," said Hanly. Meanwhile, retailers in the middle mass market are losing out as shoppers become more selective in their consuming habits. In the UK, Marks & Spencer (M&S) executive chairman, Sir Stuart Rose, has warned retailers not to panic and abandon their core brand values in the recession. Speaking at the London retail conference, Sir Rose said that one of the keys to surviving the downturn was to hold market share, although he added that he did not know when the recession would end. Executive chairman, Phil Wrigley, at UK retail chain New Look said retailers will have to share some of the burden with consumers. For those businesses that struggle to further reduce costs and gain extra market share, it would be "counter-intuitive to charge higher prices when consumers' budgets are stretched". NEXT chief executive, Simon Wolfson, said his company is negotiating with suppliers to absorb some of the impact of the weak sterling on the second half of the year. His company had bought the dollar at an average price of US$1.50 to the pound versus US$1.98 last year and added that both selling prices and gross margins would be adversely affected. However, fashion tycoon Sir Philip Green of the Arcadia group cited speed of the supply chain rather than price as the only way to stay ahead in the current economic climate. Speaking at the recent opening of his new Topshop store in New York, Sir Philip said that customers would be focused on a quick turnaround of stock and newness in product, rather than on price this year. Caption: Sir Stuart Rose (Photo: M&S) Caption: A new Topshop flagship store opens in New York City this April (Photo: Arcadia) Value-based and multi-channel Katrin Magnussen, Senior Fashion Analyst at Mintel, said being competitive is essential but not everyone in a recession sees cheap as being the best value. "Investing in service and knowledgeable staff is also important in pulling in customers," she said, adding that the market for ethical clothing is going from strength to strength. Verdict Research's retail analyst, Simon Chinn, said the value-based clothing retailers will continue to thrive in the downturn. "Dutch clothing company C&A launched a new concept last year under the banner Avanti, which trades at the discount end of the market. German discount clothing chains such as Takko and Kik are also doing well," said Mr Chinn. Mr Chinn added that Europe's two largest clothing retailers Spain's Inditex and Sweden's H&M are well positioned to weather the economic storm. Both have expanded abroad extensively and this geographical diversification will help in some way to mitigate declining sales in Europe. "For the retailers, being multi-channel is also more and more important, as customers are getting more knowledgeable and demanding of being able to browse online and buy in-store, or vice versa," said Ms Magnussen. Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 26 - Feature Story Apparel bright spots found in low season by Staff Reporters The NPD Group, an international market research company, takes a closer look at the US apparel market and through ongoing economic challenges, is finding some pockets of growth in an otherwise fizzling fashion market. One area of the apparel market that continues to hold on is the jeans business. According to the NPD Group. Consumer Tracking Service, dollar volume sales for total jeans rose 2.3% for the three months ending with February 2009 (a key period of the economic downturn for the consumer), while total apparel sales declined 6.3% for that same time period. Additionally, premium jeans sales grew 17% in 2008, and the category is still growing. Premium jeans refer to jeans sold at US$100 or above sold in department and national chain stores, according to the NPD Group. Between December 2008 and February 2009, sales of premium jeans rose 2.3%. "That is the time period that was the most challenging in terms of consumer spending, so any growth during that time is significant. With the newfound focus on fit by some of the commodity brands coupled with women's never ending quest for the perfect pair of jeans, the passion for denim is alive and well," said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst, the NPD Group. Mr Cohen explained it is because of pent-up demand. "Previously, outerwear was not an item that made it onto the consumer's priority shopping list. Outerwear purchases were delayed for a year or so, and that created a greater need this past year," he said, adding that technology, comfort, and variety have also helped drive growth in a traditionally stubborn market. The biggest surprise in the US apparel market is in tights sales. Dollar volume sales of tights were up 11% for the three months ending with February 2009. For annual 2008, overall hosiery sales were up almost 3%. "Here is an example of where the current economy has actually helped drive growth. For a long time the hosiery industry has been struggling to get consumers connected to the category and think of it as an important‘accessory’to their wardrobes. And now, consumers realize that legwear is an inexpensive wardrobe makeover or enhancement, which has helped the sales of tights flourish," said Mr Cohen. Among all of the pockets of growth highlighted by NPD, the most impressive category for sustained growth is dresses, the NPD Group says. The NPD Group's Consumer Tracking service showed that sales of women's dresses during the three months ending February 2009 were up 11%. For the year 2008, dresses posted a 12% growth rate. "The dress offers the perfect opportunity to buy a complete outfit. The fact that the dress is trend right and has even been embraced by many high profile magazines, celebrities, and the entertainment industry helped drive its growth," noted Mr Cohen, "Spring is here, and the progressive retailers will recognize the consumer likes this trend. Trends that last and grow don't come around very often, particularly these days." "There are some glimmers of hope," said Mr Cohen, "Maybe the consumer is showing us that fashion will lead apparel back into a more positive position. And maybe those soft numbers from fall of last year will be just the launching pad retailers and manufacturers need to take a leap forward and invest in what the consumer wants. Not what the industry wants them to want." Caption: Premium jeans were found growing in the current looming economy (Photo: Trussardi jeans) Caption: Material performance advances help drive outerwear (Photo: Columbia Sportwear) Sales of premium jeans Annual 2008 Change from 2007 (Dollar volume sales) Total jeans US$100+ 17% Men's jeans US$100+ 21% Women's jeans US$100+ 16% (Source: The NPD Group) Three months ending February 2009 % change Dec-Feb 08 vs Dec-Feb 07 % change Dec-Feb 09 vs Dec-Feb 08 Total Apparel -6.4 -6.3 Outerwear -7 8.7 Annual 2008 % change Jan-Dec 07 vs Jan-Dec 06 % change Jan-Dec 08 vs Jan-Dec 07 Total Apparel 4.2 -3.6 Outerwear 3.8 6.2 Outerwear sales have been posting significant growth rates and have outpaced all the categories in NPD's Consumer Tracking Service for apparel (Source: The NPD Group)Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 27Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 28 - Market Focus Lingerie producing prowess and purchasing power grow in Asia by Michelle Phong The world lingerie industry has experienced infirm sales and likely retreating margins following the global economic crisis late last year. From then onwards, lingerie retailers and brands have been closely monitoring sales figures to construct realistic sales projection for this year. While innovative and attractive intimate wear appeal to customers, an acceptable price level helps allow them to slightly loosen the purse string, according to western intimate wear retailers. Despite the macro-economic shadow, the global lingerie industry is not likely to see a major downward growth trend due to the growing Russian and Asian lingerie markets that can help compensate the weakened US and Western European lingerie market, according to the "Global Intimate Apparel Market: 2008 Edition" report. The Russian lingerie market is witnessing a higher-than-average growth rate compared to the overall apparel industry, as the Russian middle class so far seemed to be less impacted by the global economic crisis. Wages and salaries in Russia have grown at an annual average rate of 12.8% over the past years. Markets in Asia, particularly China and India, have also fueled the lingerie industry. Lingerie brands and retailers observe a rising number of their potential target consumers in these regions due to increasing urbanization, brand awareness, and rapid retail growth. The global lingerie market grew at a rate of approximately 3%, and the Asian lingerie market expanded more rapidly at 8% (by the second half of 2008), the report mentioned. On the supply side, Asia is also gaining importance as oriental manufacturers have played an increasingly crucial role in the global lingerie supply chain, with their strong expertise in the complicated process of making bras and varied intimate wear. Western lingerie retailers have put a higher priority on proximity to the design and supply base in Asia. US brand designs in Hong Kong "This proximity allows us to react speedily following the market changes," explained Nathalie Martinet, Vice-President, R&D and Launch of Victoria's Secret Stores. She has stationed at the Hong Kong design office of Victoria's Secret since July 2008. The company is the first US lingerie retailer to establish a design office right at the Asian manufacturing base. Ms Martinet told ATA Journal during the International Symposium of Intimate Apparel held by the Hong Kong Polytechnic University in Hong Kong this March. The Hong Kong office currently has a team of five and works with the New York design office. This has made the frequent communications between the US retailer and Asian manufacturers a lot easier. "We would like to work with our partners in Asia as close as possible to have face-to-face interaction. We can now engage in brain storming on a daily basis," she said. This was more challenging when there is a 12-hour difference between New York and the China region. Swift reaction to the market needs is critical in this competitive market. Ms Martinet explained that about four or five years ago, a bra launch was made approximately every three months, but Victoria’s Secret now offers 12 launches around a year. Operating with 1,000 stores in the US, the company shares a market of 34% in the country and off-store sales are available via online and mailing channels. Ms Martinet considered it important to continue focusing on innovation this year. She said: "A bra is highly technical with possibly up to 51 pieces building it and therefore 51 opportunities for improvement." Innovation, however, has to remain close to the heart of the consumer, which can be characterized with three needs: excitement, performance and basic. Recovery, durability and breathability can be classed as basic needs, which are implicitly expected by consumers. Performance needs include hand feel, aesthetics, and enhancement/swell. Excitement can be created if a product offers the consumer some features they would love to have but did not notice before. Examples can be minimal seams and print on interior fabrics. Some recent novelties made by Victoria's Secret are the Dream Angels Caption: Nathalie Martinet Caption: Newly launched Perfect One by Victoria's SecretAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 29 - Market Focus Demi bra that has exclusive memory foam for ultimate comfort, and the Biofit that is an answer to customization for consumer delight, according to Ms Martinet. The latest launch in March 2009 is described by Victoria's Secret as "the perfect one", which offers engineered support and shape enhancement. Consumer purchasing behavior is framed by the budget consideration under the current economic situation, and basic and performance needs can be prevailing factors. Meanwhile, they can still respond to excitement factors, Ms Martinet said. Innovative bonding technologies replacing stitches On the technical front, the quest for stitch-free design of bras is getting particularly popular along with other innovative research areas such as molding, chemistry, smart fabrics and environmental protection. Starting a decade ago, Bemis has been developing its Sewfree technology, initially for a European intimate wear brand. Its applications have been extended to the segments of swimsuits and technical outerwear. The technology involves a process of heat bonding, welding, fusing and/or laminating to replace conventional stitching with heat-activated adhesive films. John Cha, Product Development Manager at Bemis Hong Kong Ltd said: "Sewfree is a continuous thermoplastic adhesive film, capable of providing 100% surface coverage and adhesion. Using highly elastic polyurethane (PU) that can work well with most fibers, the coverage can be uniform or precise. It contains no VOCs or solvents, making it safe and easy to handle." This stitch-free bonding offers a lower profile than sewing and gives smooth seam, making the resulted intimate wear aesthetically appealing, Mr Cha commented. It is also less abrasive to the end-user and reduces weight of the end product. The transparent film requires no color matching and can improve water resistance. Users can choose from a range of machinery to realize the technology, according to Bemis. Any machine able to apply heat (energy) and pressure for a certain amount of time can be eligible. Some commonly used machinery/technologies include: • Platen heat sealers (shuttle, carouset, belt or molded forms), • Ultrasonic, laser and radio-frequency (RF) technologies (continuous or discontinuous), and • Hot air sealers, e.g. seam sealing machines and continuous edge treatment machines. There are considerations when using stitch-free technologies. Pattern making is affected as virtually no seam is allowed. As far as product safety is concerned, compliance with Oeko Tex, CPSIA and REACH can be areas of attention. Thoughts on fabric or substrate compatibility, climatic environment and manufacturing process are also needed, Mr Cha mentioned. At the Hong Kong Mode Lingerie held this April, Invista, a producer of integrated fibers and polymers, introduced a newly developed Lycra 2.0 tape for garment. The new technology provides bonded hems, bands, and seams for garments that stretch and recover in response to body's movements. It helps reduce undergarment lines associated with bulky narrow elastics, providing intimate apparel wearers with smooth, all-day fit. It can exert less compression on the body during wear than bulky narrow elastics, and extend the durability of a garment, according to Michelle Rice, Global Director of Intimate Apparel and Swimwear, Apparel Marketing Business for Invista. Caption: John Cha China lingerie market grows above average in Asia Notably, China itself is an exciting consumer market apart from being a manufacturing base. A major lingerie and beachwear trade exhibition organizer, Eurovet observed that the Asian lingerie market represents 20% of the global market with annual growth of 8% in comparison to worldwide annual growth of 2.9%. In China, the lingerie sector showed the strongest growth with a growth of 10% in 2008 and 11% growth during the last five years. Chinese consumers currently devote on average 8% of their clothing budget to lingerie and experts expected the figure to rise to 10% in 2010. More trends in China observed by Eurovet are noteworthy. • A strong upswing in the number of higher quality "second lines". An ultra-structured market, featuring the following three key segments: "students", "young working women" and "women with high spending power". • Chinese consumers are increasingly sensitive to European style, attracted to the idea of lingerie's seductive powers. • An increasing demand for larger sizes, particularly C and D cup bras. • There is a clear diversification in the Chinese retail scene. In 2002, the ten largest brands shared 80% of the market, a figure that had fallen to 43% by 2006. • More western specialized chain stores have entered the market such as Inné and Private Shop, creating a richer and more glamorous retail landscape. In the dynamic Chinese market, domestic brands have grown rapidly, and Aimer is one of them. Founded by Zhang Rongming at Beijing in 1993 with an inventive bra product supported by shape-memory alloys, Aimer Group is one of the Chinese lingerie leaders with an annual turnover exceeding 90 million euros (in 2007). Soon after its establishment, Aimer Group attracted investment from Japan on the basis of the shape-memory bra, leading to the establishment of a joint venture to capture the emerging intimate wear market in China. Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 30 - Market Focus By 2008, the group employed some 2,000 people including designers and R&D researchers, and it owns brand names of Aimer (1993), La Clover (2004), Imi's (2005), and more recently Aimer Men, to market a range of products, from intimate apparel, shape wear, warm underwear, lounge wear to swimwear and accessories. "The growth rate of Aimer brands went beyond our expectation in 2007 at over 30%. Among them, ‘La Clover' doubled from the previous year and the Imi's grew by 120% between 2006 and 2007. The men's brand also saw a remarkable increase in sales in these years," said Mr Zhang, adding that the company had accumulated substantial experience to optimally design intimate wear for women and this laid a solid foundation for it to combine fashion and size in the best way. He considered the rapid development of his brands a happy result of the appropriate use of scentific data. The group founded the Aimer Research Institute of Human Body with the Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology in 1999. Among other research projects, the institute gathered and analysed key measurements (chest/hip/waist) of women across China. A survey conducted by Beijing Apparel Institute and Aimer Group shows that the bust size of Chinese women has increased by 1cm - the average bust size for women in northern China is 83.54cm while the average bust size for women in the southern and western China is 82.21cm. The cup size also increases among Chinese women. Majority bras sold were in A and B cups, but the demand for bras in C, D and E cups has accelerated in recent years. Caption: Zhang Rongming Caption: Store design enhances the image of Aimer's brands in China (fabrics and accessories) are imported from China and Taiwan, representing up to 75% of an order value. As a result, there is little allowance for other costs such as wages, bank insta llments and factory rents. Funding is also an issue for these exporters. Expert advises to divert markets A director at the World Trade Organisation (WTO) believed Bangladesh needs to seek for potential export markets in developing nations other than the traditional countries to reduce adverse impacts brought by the global economic meltdown. "As Bangladesh heavily depends on exports to the recession affected US and European markets, it is in a vulnerable position like other least developed countries (LDCs)," said Shishir Priyadarshi, director for development division in WTO, Geneva, Switzerland. He made the remark at a dialogue on "Ongoing WTO and Doha round negotiations: concerns and interests of Bangladesh and other LDCs" in Dhaka this April. The WTO executive said that Bangladesh's textile industry's profit margin is low, making it challenging to sustain in the shrinking global trade market. He warned that the global trade may decline by 9% in 2009 due to effects of the economic dip, and Bangladesh would need to prepare itself for challenges ahead. He suggested the country to try to secure duty-free, quota-free market access to developing nations and aid for trade facilities in a bid to weather the global economic challenges. No plan to offer cash incentives Finance Adviser to the Prime Minister, Dr Moshiur Rahman, said that there was unlikely to have immediate cash incentives for the country's garment exporters due to the worst global economic downturn in near future. Garment manufacturers accounting for 76% of the country's annual shipment demanded cash subsidy worth 10% of their export value, saying they need that to compete with rivals such as China, India and Pakistan. "We know that garment export is slowing down. But it is due to the plummeting demand in the West. And every exporting country is suffering because of this global recession-related slump," said Dr Moshiur. "In this depressing demand scenario, any additional cash incentives to the garment exporters would only help subsidise the western consumers. Subsidy would give the western buyers some pretext to cut order prices," he said, adding that "so far we don't have any information that makes the case for cash incentives for garment exporters. We will definitely help them if they incur loss as a result of higher production cost than the order price." He also disagreed with the idea of currency depreciation, saying that the government cannot intervene in the money market and any significant devaluation of Bangladeshi taka would pile up miseries among local consumers and the agricultural sector. For daily news of the textile industry, please visit textile.2456.comAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 31Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 32 - Machinery Technology ShanghaiTex 2009 sets textile business in motion Supported by international exhibitors, Chinese textile authorities and influential Chinese textile players, ShanghaiTex 2009 will open its doors at Shanghai New International Expo Center in Pudong, Shanghai, on June 12-15 The 14th International Exhibition on Textile Industry (ShanghaiTex 2009) has gained great support from exhibitors and the textile industry. A number of textile builders will make use of ShanghaiTex 2009 as their most important platform for market promotion this year. It is expected that total exhibition area will reach 100,000 square meters, exhibitors from 17 countries and regions, including France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Netherlands, Turkey, Austria, Denmark, USA, Japan, Korea, India, Singapore, Iran, PR China, Hong Kong SAR and Taiwan province will participate. The phenomenal scale of ShanghaiTex 2009 made it the world's largest professional textile machinery exhibition in 2009, and it is the choice for local and overseas textile manufacturers to source for the latest machinery and technologies. A must-visit event Key buyers enterprises, such as Shanshan Group, Ruyi Group and Luthai Textile have confirmed to visit ShanghaiTex 2009, according to the organizer, Adsale Exhibition Services. The exhibition has also gained generous support from 16 provinces in China, including Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Fujian, Anhui, Hunan, Sichuan, Jiangxi, Heilongjiang, Henan, Guangdong, Shandong, Guizhou, Shanxi, Xinjiang, Yunnan and Hubei. Representatives of international retailers and brands, including H & M and Columbia Sportswear, also confirmed their attendance in the ShanghaiTex 2009 exhibition and described the show as a must-visit event. Feng Lin, Quality Control Manager of Columbia Sportswear in Shanghai and his colleagues take ShanghaiTex seriously by pre-registering early, says the organizer. Overseas trade associations such as the Indian Textile Association, the Indonesian Textile Association and the All Pakistan Mills Association also planned to organize delegations to visit the ShanghaiTex 2009 exhibition. Despite the presence of the global economic challenge, China's textile industry maintains its competitive edge and the government continues to support the industry with increased export tax rebates for textile products and apparel. The Chinese textile industry is expected to grow stronger, while capable enterprises are taking the opportunity to expand their market share through advanced technology and product upgrade. At this year's ShanghaiTex, more professional services will be organized for buyers and exhibitors. A "Buying Guide Zone" will be set up onsite to provide guiding services to buyers according to their sourcing needs. The "2009 China Textile Industry Summit" will be held concurrently with ShanghaiTex 2009 to provide value-added services to exhibitors and visitors. ShanghaiTex 2009 is sponsored by Shanghai Textile Holding (Group) Corporation, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade Shanghai Sub-council, China Chamber of International Commerce Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, and organized by Shanghai International Exhibition Co Ltd, Shanghai Textile Technology Service & Exhibition Center and Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd. Caption: Floor plan of ShanghaiTex 2009Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 33 - Machinery Technology Exhibit highlights A.Monforts W2 B66 A.Monforts will be participating at Shanghaitex as part of the German Engineering Federation (VDMA), highlighting its energy saving solutions in textiles dyeing and finishing. These solutions will include the integrated heat recovery modules and exhaust air cleaning units to reduce energy consumption and clean the exhaust air of thermo finishing ranges. Where space may be a premium, Monforts has introduced a stand-alone Energy Tower for retrofitting to existing stenters or hotflues with restricted access above the units. Energy Towers have been designed to be positioned alongside the stenter or hotflue, and feature five integrated heat recovery modules. Capitalising on the high temperature of the exhaust air, savings of up to 30% in energy costs can be achieved, in accordance with Monforts. Monforts will also give emphasis to its latest Montex TT stenter for technical textiles featuring a specially developed nozzle system for coating applications as well as outstanding maintenance features. Caption: Monforts Energy Tower with service doors open Andritz Küsters W2 B54 Andritz Küsters, will showcare their complete product range of calenders and rolls for the textile industry as well as machinery for the nonwoven industry at Shanghaitex 2009 within the German Pavilion. The enterprise from Krefeld, Germany is well supported by their representatives AKM (based in Shanghai and Hong Kong), who have derived from Kuesters Far East and Kuesters Shanghai. Andreas Lukas, Vice President of Andritz Küsters stated: “The two unique deflection controlled roll systems S-Roll and HyCon Roll are our core competence. Our clients get precisely the right calender technology their product needs.” With a maximum line force of 400 N/mm the teXcal s-roll with deflection control raises the bar to set new standards, especially in technical textiles, which require defined low air permeability such as parachute silk. Other deflection controlled calender systems with synthetic coatings are limited to a line force of 300 N/mm. The fabric needs multiple calendering, whereas the teXcal s-roll with especially adjusted surface technology can achieve best compaction results in just one passage, the company says. Caption: Andritz Küsters teXcal s-roll Arioli S.p.A. W3 H01 The VAPO2008 is an updated and technologically advanced version of the Arioli loop steam ager. The machine is designed for fixation of dyestuffs on fabrics at the following temperatures: • between 102°C and 106°C in saturated steam • between 155° and 180°C in HT steam • between 130°C and 180°C in hot air (polymerisation) It can be used for steaming of both woven and knitted fabrics such as cotton, polyester, P/C blends, silk, polyamide, wool, polyester-wool and polyester-viscose blends with different printing methods, i.e. direct and discharge printing. Benninger W3 C05 Benninger offers solutions for important textile finishing processes and specializes in the continuous open-width treatment of fabrics and interlaced yarns. With innovative process systems, the company increases efficiency and therefore provides customers with significant competitive advantages, whether with regard to increasing productivity, optimizing quality or ensuring ecological standards. Major exhibits from Benninger include the Ben-Wash, a high washing effect with low water consumption; the Ben-Bleach, from grey cloth to full dyeing or print white; the Ben-Dimensa for precise mercerization; Ben-Colour that provides one-step dyeing technology; the Knit-Line offering knitware open-width concepts; and the system of Resource Management that helps users achieve zero discharge and hence environmental protection through waste water recycling and heat recovery. Besides, Benninger tire cord and single thread installation impregnation systems are technologically mature, guaranteeing total reliability and the highest possible level of safety of the treated fabrics in the most diverse areas of application, the company says. Caption: Ben-Dimensa system of Benninger Bianco spa W3 E85 Bianco spa will exhibit the SKM1 Bianco sensor. Thanks to advanced electronical systems, the SKM1 sensor integrates two different optical systems so that the operator can choose the needle path or the column inclination processing way. These two reading modes use the Twin Scan technology that can work simultaneously both in Reflex and in Transparence, in order to be used on the widest possible range of fabrics. Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 34Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 35 - Machinery Technology Brückner W2 B80 Presented by Brückner, the new Power-Frame stenter generation is characterized by the proven and patented Split-Flow air circulation system achieving an optimum temperature distribution across the complete dryer length and width. This is important for heat-setting processes and in the end decisive for the quality of the fabric. An easy reproducibility of production data is ensured with the Multi-Control Plus machine control, and more than 500 different recipes can be memorized. The preparation times are short and a uniformly high fabric quality with heat-setting processes is ensured. With the newly developed energy-saving systems, Brückner achieved to make the stentering processes even more profitable, the company says. Additionally, the dryer concept newly designed by Brückner allows to increase the production output by up to 25% with an energy consumption that has been reduced simultaneously by 25%. The more intense combination of suction and air circulation allows a homogeneous drying across the fabric width / fabric thickness and thus an optimum fabric quality with the best achievable residual shrinkage, the company says. Caption: Brückner Power-Frame stenter BTSR International W1 R01 BTSR International will unveil a novel concept of universal tension control system (UNICO). The company explains it represents a fully integrated system, which is able to automatically compensate sudden and high yarn absorption variations (yarn feeding tension peaks or falls), due to an innovative, patented working system. Changzhou Peixing E4 D33 Changzhou Peixing Textile Machinery Manufacturing Co Ltd claims to be one of the earliest companies designing and manufacturing spindle and ring in China. The company explains that its spindles and ring are suitable for the installation and maintenance of spinning frame, twisting frame, two-for-one twister and drawing twister dealing with cotton, woolen, flax, thin silk, chemical fiber, fiberglass and their blends. Changzhou Runyuan W2 D45 Changzhou Runyuan will be exhibiting a range of machinery including RCS biaxial machine and RDT Jacquard seamless warp knitting machine. The company says it will showcase innovative warp knitting systems that are domestically developed in China.Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 36 - Machinery Technology Changzhou Yueye W4 A08 Changzhou Yueye Textile Machine specializes in equipment for corduroy and textile machines mainly for dyeing and printing mills. The company offers systems that collect used heat and more machines in the fields of corduroy, finishing and packing, as well as drying and printing. Chemtax W1 E68 / W1 E75 / W1 F68 / W3 E01 Based in Hong Kong, Chemtax Industrial represents some 20 brands of machinery systems in the Greater China region. Datatex W3 E01 Datatex will present ERP solutions specifically for the needs of textiles and apparel production that give visibility and integration, and PC-based tools that interface to legacy ERP. Erbatech W3 E01 Erbatech will showcase four innovative solutions and concepts: cold pad batch padder Scout Color for reactive dyeing of knitted fabrics; stretch-minimizing vacuum suction unit Vac-O-Vac for knitted fabrics; water-recycling in a knitwear finishing plant; and heat recovery for relax dryers and stenters. Exacta W1 E75 Exacta srl, a producer of linking machines, will present the advantages of its complete range of linking and automatic linking machines, including Exacta Quasar / Tubular, Exacta Fully Fashioned, Exacta Stoptronic, and Exacta Master Overlock. Ferraro W3 E01 Ferraro will display a new Easy Comptex, which features compact design, better performance in shrinkage and speed. There is a new magnetic stretcher, which is very light with a particular profile to avoid any mark risk, the company says. With a newly patented device, Regulus, it is the first stretcher with an adjustable entry angle. It allows improved and automatic adjustment according the type of fabric and its thickness, Ferraro explains. Lamperti Company W3 E01 Lamperti Company supplies a variety of textile finishing machines, including raising, sueding, shearing, lustring, tigering, termobrushing, thread cuts system and etc. A new combine / sueding machine will be introduced at ShanghaiTex 2009, which combines in one machine various latest technologies in abrasive materials research, such as ceramic and carbon. Mentasti W1 E75 For the first pressing, Mentasti will show the new model ST91-E, which is capable of processing knitted panels of the finest gauges (up to 18gg. flat knit). For garment washing/drying, on display will be the latest electronic units for samples/small productions that have the same construction and software of the bigger units. A super compact automatic pressing machine 01WS will be introduced for final pressing. Santoni W1 F68 On a large booth with more than 650 square meters, Santoni SpA, under Lonati Group, will exhibit a full range of seamless knitting machines (Santoni and Sanglacomo brands), including both single and double jersey models in various diameters and gauges to cover a complete range of applications such as underwear, outwear, sportswear, active wear, swimwear, and prêt-a-porter. For Vignoni brand, innovative ultra-fine gauge circular knitting machinery will be displayed, while for MecMor brand, a unique circular open variable panel garment machine TJ1800 model will be exhibited with newly developed software. Vanwyk W3 E01 Vanwyk will reveal its solutions in the area of both gravimetrical and volumetric dispensing systems, as well as software, which is am important component for dispensing technology. The company develops an array of software for the actual dispensing as well as for in-house data management. Danfoss Drives W3 Q37 Danfoss Drives will highlight its VLT drives solution. The reliable and innovative VLT drives are designed to support any automation application and provide major energy savings. An award-winning, innovative modular design makes VLT drives extremely flexible, which can be delivered within days highly customised drives, tested from the factory, the company says. VLT drives are provided within the range 0.18 - 1,200 kW. The VLT AutomationDrive will be exhibited in Shanghai, which represents a single drive concept that controls the entire range of operations from ordinary to servo like applications on any machine or production line, according to Danfoss Drives. The modular open-technology platform, on which the VLT AutomationDrive is built, makes it adaptable and programmable. In addition, its configurable, user-friendly interface supports local languages and letters. DTC Systems W3 K01 DTC Systems (Hong Kong) is an agent of several manufacturers' products for the China market, including Datacolor's computer color matching and quality control systems, and Autofoam's foam finishing systems. It also sells laboratory dispensers, dyeing machines, and dye house integration systems. Emerson CT W2 B01 As a world supplier of AC & DC drives, controls and drives systems, Emerson CT has continually strengthened their design and development capabilities to provide optimum industrial automationAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 37 - Machinery Technology solutions with high level technical performance and flexibility for customers in various industries like textile, printing, machine tools, and elevator etc throughout China. Emerson CT will showcase a wide range of AC & DC drives, servos, HMI, PLC, and drive control solutions as well as their vast experiences in the textile industry. Erhardt+Leimer W2 B56 Erhardt+Leimer is a specialist for system solutions and automation technology on running webs and belts, ranks worldwide among manufacturers of control equipment also for the textile industry. It offers customized solutions for web guiding, web spreading, measuring and inspection technology, web cutting systems as well as weft straightening systems. Eura Drives Electric W1 J35 Eura Drives Electric is a Chinese manufacturer devoted to the development, manufacture and marketing of AC drives and soft starters in China. The company obtained ISO9001 certificate, CE certificate and CCC certificate. The company will present a range of products including the LT3300 series of Modbus master machine control, constant linear speed (PID) control and frequency (linear speed) up/down control. Fadis W3 C01 Fadis offers machinery to prepare yarns, in the form of packages or hanks. This year, Fadis will present the Sincro M, a new innovation of winding machine with precision crossing and electronic yarn guide which can reach speeds up to 2000 m/min (mechanical speed up to 2500 m/min). With the Sincro M machine, it is possible to produce FAPP low density packages (Fadis Precision Package), which allow for wide retraction margins of the yarn during the dyeing phase, thus keeping a high residual elasticity percentage of the elasticized yarn. Therefore, with this technological system and other machines of Fadis, it is possible to obtain qualitative results quite similar to hank dyeing but with the same simplicity and economy typical of yarn package dyeing, the company says. The fundamental innovation of these machines is the use of the precision crossing with electronic yarn guide and positively driven swift instead of a positively driven bobbin. With the "precision crossing with positively driven swift" technology, it is possible to obtain FAPP with a controlled yarn laying, without patterning, which are a Caption: Sincro M machine of FadisAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 38 - Machinery Technology guarantee for good unwinding at a constant tension, thus allowing to keep elasticity and a high performance during subsequent production phases, according to Fadis. Fong's Group W3 B38 Fong's National Engineering Fong's National Engineering will urders core the Labwin laboratory package dyeing machine, which is an easy-to-handle and flexible tool for package dyeing plants. Used for the pre-treatment, dyeing and after treatment of packages and etc, the Labwin machine has following features, according to the company. •Versatility in capacity •Versatility in coupling •Consistent liquor ratio •Excellent levelness •Direct application of recipe •Air-pad technology and flexible spindle. Caption: Fong's Labwin laboratory package dyeing machine Then Maschinen The patented, aerodynamic Then-Airflow dyeing system differs fundamentally from conventional jet and overflow dyeing machines based on the hydraulic principle, Then Maschinen says. Then-Airflow SYN A G1 system operates with the same highly advanced dyeing technology as the Synergy system, but at temperature of up to 98℃. This ensures the optimum protection of the fabric, which receives outstanding surface quality due to the Then-Airflow process. Monforts Fong's Monforts Fong's will introduce the latest complement to post-finishing range, MonfongTex 868 shrinking range. With compressive shrinking technique, it imparts dimensional stability and consistent residual shrinkage to woven fabric. Since late last year, the market coverage of Monforts Fong's has been extended to the Southeast Asian countries; namely Vietnam, Burma, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, the Philippines; and peripheral zones such as Mongolia, North and South Korea and Nepal. Xorella Xorella will highlight its well-received XO-Series energy saving vacuum conditioning and heat setting machines. The company explains that the new XO-series uses key components with high quality and engineering in both performance and reliability to help the customers to save the energy consumption by 15-25%. Cornerstone of the new series is the advanced XO-steaming system, which uses the intermediate vacuum technology and combines with internally produced 100% saturated steam to effectively condition, set, pre-shrinkage and relax the textile products, Xorella explains. Grob Textile AG W1 F33 Grob Textile AG will emphasize its innovation for the weaving industry, particularly the PosiLeno, a new leno binding system. It is a positively controlled leno device for riderless heald frames, enabling production speed to be doubled. Its characteristics include: •100% higher production speeds on existing weaving machines •Infinite patterning possibilities with leno binding over a wide range of different warp yarns •Reliable binding through positively controlled doup frame •Simple, fast, and cost-effective article change •Optimized shed formation movements insure highest fabric quality while minimizing stresses on warp yarns, heald frames and leno healds. Caption: Grob Textile's PosiLeno Groz-Beckert W1 F33 High-grade Groz-Beckert circular knitting cylinders provide the ideal complement to the company's premium range of needles and system components to create an ideal knitting system from a single, reliable supplier. The company says that it is only with the guarantee of a consistently high standard of component quality and outstanding durability that circular knitting machines are able to reach their full potential for high-performance operation on the factory floor. Customers are offered a selection of 60,000 knitting cylinders and around 50,000 different needles and system parts for the manufacture of textile surfaces. Groz-Beckert will display a knitting cylinder for the most popular single jersey machines in Asia with 34" diameter in gauge E44. Caption: Premium Groz-Beckert circular knitting cylinder H. Stoll W1 E68 Stoll will present a variety of highly productive flat knitting machines as a representative cross section of the CMS program, several software applications as well as the Stoll-multi gauges. Complete garments will Caption: Stoll CMS 822 multi gaugeAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 39Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 40 - Machinery Technology be another topic in Shanghai: On display will be a machine for the production of finer complete garments as well as a machine being capable of producing in contrast extremely coarse complete garments with highest output. In addition new pattern possibilities impressively demonstrate the economic efficiency of the complete article production with Stoll-knit and wear. More products will be shown, including machines of intarsia knitting, Stoll Software Solutions and the pattern software M1plus. J. Zimmer W3 H01 J. Zimmer has developed a new textile digital printing technology, namely Colaris. The new printing technology uses fillings with four, six or eight process colors and enables print of any designs and colorway without restriction of specific continuous length with the repeating pattern. Practical unlimited coloration possibilities together with high quality, and in comparison with the current status of technology, significantly increased production capacity. Jakob Müller E3 E33 Jakob Müller offers such solutions as narrow fabric weaving systems, warp crochet knitting systems and label weaving systems, to produce bra-belts, zipper tapes, decoration tapes, bordering tapes, satin tapes, printing tapes, elastic tapes, medical bandages and lace. Jinjiang City Henglian Machine Manufacturing W1 Q31 Based in the Chinese province of Fujian, Jinjiang City Henglian Machine Manufacturing specializes in technologically advanced knitting needles and accessories, it says. Its main products are circular needles, transfer needles, flat needles, hosiery needles, raschel needles and etc. Karl Mayer W2 B90 Two warp knitting machines will be on show at the booth of the Karl Mayer Group. The TM 2, introduced in 2008, is a firm fixture of the Chinese market, the company says. This system complements the TM 3 and expands the TM-series. This year, the TM 2 and TM 3 are both produced by Karl Mayer (China) Ltd. The Seamless Smart machine DJ 4/2 with 44” working width was introduced recently, and is ideal for producing hosiery and seamless garments, the company says. The family of the DJ models will be expanded with an innovative new development in the field of double-bar raschel machines with Jacquard, which offers a variety of performance features. Caption: Karl Mayer's TM 2 tricot machine Kern-Liebers Textile (Taicang) W1 H42 Being a partner of the international knitting industry, Kern-Liebers offers the largest programme of the knitting elements worldwide, with more than 40,000 different types. Approximately 8,000 standard types are available at short notice from stock. These high-quality knitting elements are developed in close cooperation with all major machine builders. The manufacturing programme comprises loop forming elements such as sinkers, jacks, selectors, sliders, wall inserts and precision components for large diameter circular machines, seamless hosiery machines, flat bed machines, single cylinder sock machines, double cylinder sock machines, fully fashioned machines (cotton frames) and weaving looms. L.G.L. Electronics (Hangzhou) W1 R39 / E3 D35 L.G.L. Electronics is a Chinese manufacturer of yarn feeders for both the weaving and knitting sectors. The company will present a number of new products at ShanghaiTex 2009. It has been investing substantially in research and development in order to develop new technical solutions in the fields of weaving and knitting, the company says. Libero Technology Limited W3 F62 Libero Technology Limited will exhibit the Textest Automatic Hydrostatic Head, Tester FX 3000 Hydrotester III, which is used for fast, accurate and automatic determination of the resistance of plastic foils, coated and uncoated fabrics, and non-wovens to water penetration by means of the dynamic test method, the static test method, and the program test method. Additionally, the Textest FX 3100 water vapor transmission rate tester, Easyperm, will be presented. Caption: Textest FX 3000 Hydrotester III Mahlo W2 B64 Apart from many new developments in the field of process automation, Mahlo will present a complete new combination of an automatic straightening machine and a process control system called Orthopac RVMC-12. Caption: Mahlo Orthopac RVMC-12Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 41 - Machinery Technology The construction of the Orthopac (X) RVMC-12 is very compact and versatile, and can be modified according to customer's requirements in a block building way, the company depicts. It is equipped with very sensitive scanning electronics, which incorporates an intelligent signal processing system and adapts itself to most fabric qualities. Detection and automatic straightening of even most complicated and complex fabric constructions is no issue, Mahlo comments. More systems will also be presented, including a Optipac VMC-12 modular process control system that measures and controls dwell time, residual moisture, exhaust humidity, area weight etc; as well as the Qualiscan QMS-12 quality control system for traversing cross web measurement of area weight, moisture and thickness. Measurement Technology Northwest W3 K15 Measurement Technology Northwest will present a Sweating Guarded Hotplate, often referred to as the "skin model", which produces accurate, repeatable measurements of the thermal resistance and vapor permeability of textiles. This compact system was designed in accordance with ISO 11092 and ASTM F1868 to measure both Rct (thermal) and Ret (vapor) characteristics. Sweating capability is achieved through a unique porous wicking assembly on the surface of the test plate and its outer guard ring, the company mentions. The system includes hotplate with integral sweating surface, variable speed airflow hood, gravity fed fluid supply system, and ambient temperature and humidity probes. An adjustable height airflow hood easily accommodates a variety of sample thickness, and our ThermDAC control and data logging system that makes testing as simple as clicking the mouse and walking away. The company will also present an Epoxy Thermal Manikin (Newton). MHM W3 F43 MHM will present its innovative technologies in the areas of textile screen printing machines and accessories, graphic printing machines and accessories, conveyor dryers, as well as rotary screen printing machines. Ningbo Cixi W2 B46 Ningbo Cixi is specialized in the manufacture and marketing of spare parts for circular, flat and hosiery knitting machinery and looms. Its product portfolio covers zirconia yarn guide, positive feeder, Lycra feeder, needle detector, stop motion, transmission system, Lycra guide roller, ceramic part, yarn creel, transport belt, timing belt, yarn carriers, needle, cam, sinkers, weft feeder and other accessories etc. The company supplies spare parts for circular knitting machines from Europe and America. Caption: Ningbo Cixi's spare parts for circular, flat and hosiery knitting machinery Oerlikon Textile E2 B01 At its 400-square-meter booth, Oerlikon Texile is presenting a number of innovations for users in China. Oerlikon Barmag Oerlikon Barmag will highlight FDY yarn production this year. In addition to highly productive systems for commodity yarns, the company alsoAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 42 - Machinery Technology provides solutions for the efficient production of specialties. The company is optimistic with sophisticated downstream processing methods such as warp knitting. Energy-, air- and space-saving concepts are also crucial. In the DTY sector, it highlights the eFK texturing machine, which can be used with the company's energy-saving godet technology from the MPS and COCOON and the ergonomic handling of the FK6-1000. Oerlikon Schlafhorst Oerlikon Schlafhorst supplies a full range of machinery for spinning mills, irrespective of the spinning process. The Autoconer 5 with the innovative PreciFX is used in the field of automatic package winding. In the field of compact yarns as well as of short staple spinning of cotton and long staple spinning of wool, the technological details and advantages of the Zinser CompACT³ system stand out. Last but not least, Oerlikon Schlafhorst offers the entire rotor spinning machine family - Autocoro and BD line - with new performance features for more quality and productivity. Caption: Oerlikon Schlafhorst's Autoconer 5 Oerlikon Neumag Oerlikon Neumag offers a comprehensive portfolio with turnkey solutions for the production of airlaid and spunbond webs for hygienic, medical, filtering and automotive purposes among other things. The range comprises package solutions for spunbond webs, carded webs and airlaid products as well as the single technologies meltblown, carding, crosslapping, needling, aerodynamic carding and festooning. On the other hand, it is possible to combine different methods for developing innovative nonwoven products and processes and for opening up new markets. Furthermore, visitors of the Shanghaitex exhibition will be able to discuss the latest developments for BCF yarn and synthetic staple fiber plants at the booth, Oerlikon Neumag says. Oerlikon Saurer Oerlikon Saurer provides embroidery and twisting systems. In the embroidery sector, the product lines Saurer and Melco offer shuttle embroidering machines and multi-head machines. In the twisting sector, the Allma and Volkmann brands are known in the segments of clothing staple, carpet yarn, tyre cord, industrial and glass yarns. RITM E1 C50 RITM (previously known under the brands Verdol, ICBT and Rieter FYT) will exhibit a variety of textile machinery in Shanghai. In the area of fine count processing, RITM offers a wide range on the market of twisting machines for embroidery and sewing thread applications; single and double covering machines for hosiery, stockings, sportswear and technical yarns; air covering machines for hosiery, stockings and sportswear; and combined machines to twist and shrink nylon yarn through thermal treatment. In the sector of industrial yarns, RITM will emphasize the UT 50 machine, appreciated for its flexibility and for the quality of yarn and package produced, as well as the UTC 60 machine that brings more flexibility with the direct cabling equipments. Glass yarns is a field of highlight for RITM this year, as it will showcase its latest improvements, such as new motorized spindles; new motor-creels; improved doffing time; reduced chain yarn breaks and yarn external pollution; and a "Quick UNIX" operating system. In addition to the M.U.S.T. monitoring unit system for textile machinery, the company will also present technologies in the aspects of tire cord and carpet yarns. Caption: The RITM UT 50 machine Santex (Shanghai) Textile Machinery W3 G12 Santex (Shanghai) Textile Machinery will show a number of machinery: • Santastretch Plus, which is a continuous hydroextracting, overstretching and wet compacting machine for tubular knitted fabrics; • Santaspread, a steaming and compacting calendar machine for tubular knitted fabrics; • Santacompact CK, a leveling, steaming and compacting calendar machine for open width knitted fabrics; • Santashrink Progress, which is tensionless shrinking and relax drying machine for knitted and woven fabrics; • Santabrush, a surface treatment machine for knitted and woven fabrics; • SM6 sueding machines for knitted and woven fabrics; • Plurima, a dry and wet sueding machine for warp knitted and woven fabrics; and • Cavitec coating and laminating machine for technical textiles. Savio E1 B35 Savio will be present in Shanghai displaying two machines especially studied for the Chinese market requirements. Savio XCL is an automatic winder, completely assembled by Shandong Istma Textile Machinery (off shore assembling company of Savio Macchine Tessili). It is particularly designed for the local market in order to meet the high yarn quality demand together with high production output, reduced energy consumption, maintenance and investment. This winder with manual bobbins feeding and manual package doffing, with the proper technical specifications studied for the Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 43 - Machinery Technology the Chinese market, represents the best optimized investment. All the parameters of the winding process are controlled by the main PC, as well as by the single head self-diagnosis monitoring. High productivity together with yarn and package quality level can be obtained, thanks to the flexible and intelligent cycle in addition to the controlled and customized dynamic acceleration. The direct drive of the moving parts and the specially designed suction fan allow reduced energy consumption, according to Savio. Savio will also demonstrate the Geminis S, which is offered in different models, diversified by spindle gauge and dimension in order to match all market requests, from the finest yarns count to the carpet yarns with any type of material and blends: four spindle types and four spindle gauges are available. Particular care is given to the spindle design and drive, in order to optimize the feeding weight and minimize the energy consumption. Yarn path geometry and relevant parts are particularly polished to ensure the best yarn quality; pneumatic threading (standard feature) and the removable balloon basket make Geminis S a flexible machine. Waxing Device, axial displacement, yarn feelers locking device and inverter on spindles motor represent the additional optionals available. Aiming at the world wide markets, Geminis S is also offered with "Duo-Pot", with elastomeric yarn technology, and with machine length up to 360 spindles and double head stock. Caption: Savio XCL Schmidt W2 B76 Established in 1945, Schmidt company says it is the first company to achieve the DIN EN ISO9001 international certification in tension metre industry and it has rich experience in the field of tension metre. Both German technology and years of experience in tension measuring help Schmidt to improve quality and efficiency and higher profitability of its customers, the company says. SDL Atlas W3 B51 SDL Atlas will participate at the ShanghaiTex 2009 this year, presenting a broad range of textile testing products, supplies, consumables, and services available from a single source. On display include a digital Elmendorf Tearing Tester complete with pendulum and calibration weights, as well as Atlas Ci3000+ system to conduct weathering and lightfastness testing. Caption: Ci3000+ system of SDL Atlas Setex Schermuly Textile Computer W3 C04 Setex will bring to ShanghaiTex 2009 the Secom controller family with enhanced features for better productivity. Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 44 - Machinery Technology The task for the new family was to create a "universal" controller, which is easy-to-use and can release the features needed for the task. Special focus was placed on productivity in today’s complex production environments. For Setex OrgaTEX users, more benefits are revealed on the controller, including reduced downtime cost, user management with RFID technology, graphical stop reasons tracking, and paperless workflow. To save the environment, the Secom controllers are manufactured against RoHS (restriction of Hazardous substances) conformity, Setex says. Caption: Secom controller of Setex Shanghai Yusheng Knitting Needle W2 B47 Shanghai Yusheng Knitting Needle, a Chinese supplier of knitting needles, will display a wide range of knitting needles for textile mechanisms as well as metal fittings. Its leading products are metal and plastic guide needle blocks, dispart needle blocks, guide needles, sinkers; Raschel compound needles, Raschel core needles, Raschel jacquard needles, Raschel inset needles; trolley needles, pipe needles, chiffon needles, electron needles, accessories including steel needles, crochet hook, fishing needles, repair needles; and metals punch piece etc. Shanghai Zhongjian Textile Machinery E4 B28 Shanghai Zhongjian Textile Machinery will present a number of innovative label weaving machines, e.g. models ZJSB-120E58 and ZJSB-160E58, which are designed to produce labels, ties and other narrow weaving fabric products. Caption: Label weaving machine of Shanghai Zhongjian Shima Seiki W1 B01 Shima Seiki will exhibit its line of advanced computerized flat knitting machines. On display will be a representative cross-section of its technology, ranging from SSG- and SIG- series conventional shaping machines to its latest Mach2-series high-spec WholeGarment knitting machines. With these products, the company will present a variety of solutions for maintaining success and profitability for its customers while enduring the current economic crisis. The latest offering from Shima Seiki, Mach2X is arguably the most advanced computerized flat knitting machine to date, the company comments. What sets the Mach2X apart is its speed and productivity. Maximum knitting speed is increased to 1.6m/sec, it says. The new R2Carriage system permits quicker carriage returns for higher efficiency per knitted course. New Split Stitch technique allows efficient knitting by eliminating empty courses. On the 15L gauge machine a special large-hook version of the SlideNeedle is used for knitting 12-gauge fabrics at 15-gauge needle pitch for even higher productivity. These improvements combine to yield more than twice as much productivity than before. With this increase in productivity, Shima Seiki can finally provide WholeGarment production that is capable of supporting China’s manufacturing base, according to Shima Seiki. Caption: Shima Seiki, Mach2X WholeGarment knitting machine Signal W1 Q43 Signal, an Italian producer of electronic devices for industrial applications, textile machines, automotive special vehicles and vending automation, will introduce its controller with new performance for circular textile machines. Moreover, the company produces different types of electronic controllers for flat knitting machines, sewing machines, circular knitting and weaving machines. The final products are electronic boards and finished equipments, complete with electronic and electromechanical parts, cables, motors and needle selection groups. Thanks to the innovative software and hardware technology adopted, the controllers are capable of powerful performances, including graphic user interface and network or WI-FI connectivity for data collection, programs and patterns transmission, diagnostic and maintenance through the Internet, the company says. Steiger W1 C10 As the latest machine made by Steiger, the Libra system derives its name from Greek mythology and means balance. Besides all other important elements of the Libra were already applied on the previous models (Aries), Libra enjoys the brand new developments: motorised yarn-carriers, shortened time of carriage reversal, and the introduction the Free Gauge concept, the company describes. Libra 3.130 is the latest technology machine concept for smallest dimensions and greatest versatility with motorized yarn feeders. According to Steiger, the new concept of the Libra ensures Caption: Libra system of SteigerAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 45Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 46 - Machinery Technology higher profits. The new Libra also features light appearance, uses of new technologies and new materials. Stork Prints W3 H07 Stork Prints, a supplier of rotary screen printing, will showcase its extensive rotary screen consumables program, direct laser engraving and digital printing. The company offers a comprehensive consumables program of screens and lacquers. Specially suited for Stork's printing systems are the company's program of nickel rotary screens, which offer guaranteed stability and smooth printing results. The screens offer compatibility with all paste types, and are suited to achieve high quality results with all possible textile applications, in accordance with Stork Prints. Its program of special screens has proved to be popular with textile printers, thanks to the screens' reputation for high performance, and ability to achieve fine detail, even with large paste particles. The special screens are commonly used to create effects such as glitter and full-surface printing. For coating, it also offers a choice of screens that allow the desired yield values to be precisely achieved for each specific application. A range of screens is also especially available for transfer printing, wall cover printing and various coating applications such as interlining or nonwovens, Stork Prints says. Stork Prints also provides digital engraving technologies, such as laser engraving systems, offering a faster, more efficient, high quality, and eco-friendly approach to imaging. Caption: Engraved rotary printing screen of Stork Prints Tanatex Chemicals W3 B23 Tanatex Chemicals will provide its new and innovative products to the Chinese users. Edolan DSR (Dry Soil Release) is a high performance repellent agent with excellent water- and oil-repellent values and pronounced dry soil release properties to achieve easy-cleaning effects or to create easy-cleaning materials for outdoor exposure. It also prevents dirt to adhere to the exposed surface and simplifies the removal of dirt by spraying with water or rain. It has been especially designed for - and has good performance on (non-) coated PES material for outdoor applications like awnings, covers and tents. It is economical in comparison with other repellent agents, on average half the amount is necessary to achieve the desired repellency values. The company will also present such products as Tanacid ADP, Levegal PL and Levegal BLD polyester levelling, synchronizing and dispersing agents, as well as Logic Dyeing Concept to process cotton knit goods and their blends. Tong Geng Enterprise and Hangzhou Donglin W3 F38 Tong Geng Enterprise and Hangzhou Donglin will exhibit the ROR high-temperature and high-pressure fabric dyeing machine. The system features low tension, low liquor ratio, low spray pressure, large flow quantity and high dyeing levelness. It maintains regualar fabric transport in the storage section, with no fuzz, no rolling selvedge, no crease mark and no entwist. It is suitable for various kinds of knitted and woven fabric. It has easy operation and widely applicability, according to Tong Geng Enterprise and Hangzhou Donglin. Caption: ROR fabric dyeing machine of Tong Geng Uster E2 B85 Whether the requirement is to improve consistency of quality, increasing efficiency of the mill operation or optimizing cost of manufacturing, Uster will support the Chinese industry with know-how and experience that the company has gained by being involved in global operations over 60 years, the company explains. Uster has a full range of instruments that allow spinning mills to control and analyze the quality, process and cost of their operation. With a series of products made for the Chinese market only, Uster has introduced products that are easy to operate and affordable for a wider range of clients in China. This will make upgrading decisions in their quality control instrumentation easier. Also Uster will be launching new products that are specifically targeted to upgrade Chinese operations with an investment level that will pay back in term of increased efficiency, reduced cost of operation or improved quality. Upgrading in terms of mill operation management is also an important factor to compete with global suppliers in a global market. Uster will be supporting the management level of spinning mills with the series of Expert systems, which can allow users to get Caption: Uster ME 100 testerAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 47Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 48 - Material Technology Versatile natural fibers fulfill varied market needs As alternatives to the use of petrochemical resources are being sought, the benefits of natural fibres have come under the spotlight in the global textile industry, Adrian Wilson reports Rising sales of organic cotton The economic downturn will not prevent the global retail sales of organic cotton from reaching US$4 billion in 2009 - reflecting a year-on-year growth of 24%, according to Texas-based non-profit organisation, the Organic Exchange. This is a very positive story for 2009, which the United Nations General Assembly has proclaimed the International Year of Natural Fibres. In 2008, global retail sales of organic cotton products were worth an estimated US$3.2 billion – up 63% on 2007, but slightly lower than anticipated. The supply of organic cotton fibre continues to grow, from 57,931 million tonnes in the 2006/07 crop year to 145,865 million tonnes for the 2007/08, mainly due to increased production in India and Syria. The Organic Exchange says that during the past year, certified organic cotton fibre supplies have grown by 95%, significantly higher than annual growth rates of 45% in 2006 and 53% in 2007. The 10 brands and retailers with the largest organic cotton programmes in 2008 were Wal-Mart, C&A, Nike, H&M, Zara, Anvil, Coop Switzerland, Pottery Barn, Greensource, and Hess Natur. Organic cotton, however, still represents less than 1% of the total cotton produced worldwide, and in the larger scheme of things cotton prices have fallen around 43% in the past year, with concern that the global slowdown would slash demand. In the year to July 2009, global demand will total 111.1 million bales (each containing 175kg of cotton) - down 9.5% from last year, according to the US Department of Agriculture. Global cotton production has consequently fallen by about 880,000 bales, due to reduced production in the key manufacturing countries of China, India, Pakistan and Brazil. There are signs, though, the worst may now be over, most notably for India, which shipped just 800,000 bales of cotton between September 2008 and March 2009, down from six million bales in the comparative period in 2007-2008. Private textile mills are now said to be buying again in India as the demand for cotton yarn and garments - both for the domestic market and export - gathers momentum again. By March this year, the price of cotton began climbing back, and a fall in the strength of India’s rupee is also expected to boost export prospects for Indian cotton in the next few months. Cotton accounts for roughly 80% of all natural fibres consumed, representing hundreds of billions of dollars of economic activity and employing hundreds of millions of people. In promoting US-produced cotton, the Cotton Council International (CCI) points out that it achieves the correct balance between conservation of the environment, economic growth and corporate social responsibility. The Bremen Cotton Exchange confirmed that the US raw cotton harvested in 2008/2009 is totally free from Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Product Class 1 pesticide residues and heavy metals, making it suitable for textiles and textile toys for babies and small children as well as underclothes and bedding. Cotton, however, still remains generally favoured by consumers, and modern technology is now minimising the environmental impact of its production in the USA, according to the CCI. US farming with modern techniques means there is now less land, water and energy use, less soil erosion and reduced pesticide application per unit output, the organisation points out. Renewable production annually already saves 1.6 billion litres of tractor fuel, 907 million metric tonnes of US soil, and reduces greenhouse CO2 emissions the equivalent to removing over 27,000 cars from the road. US cotton production uses a small amount of pesticides compared with other crops, the CCI claims. Caption: Cotton remains an important crop in the US agricultural sectorAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 49Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 50 - Material Technology However, the heavily-subsidised US cotton industry continues to be criticised by other producer countries. Ghulam Rabbani, for example, who is a senior member of the Pakistan Yarn Merchant Association (PYMA), has recently said it is the reason for lower production in Pakistan, India and China in 2008/2009. "Around US$550 billion is still allocated for subsidies to US agriculture, and the majority of that figure for cotton growers," he said. "Because of the subsidies, US farmers are able to sell their cotton crop at lower rates. The United States was committed to a deal on cotton in the long-running Doha trade talks, but has not yet reached an agreement. Major cotton producers are facing hardships due to the USA's stubborn attitude towards not cutting subsidies." Premium wool offers improved properties Meanwhile, wool may only account for a fraction of the natural fibres market, but it is a premium-priced product with a range of well-known benefits. Sunrise Ultra wool, manufactured by H. Dawson of Bradford in the UK, is being actively promoted for use in, among other areas, bedding products. Sunrise Ultra benefits from a new treatment without chlorination, which the company has developed, resulting in machine-washable, easy-to-care ultra bulk wools. The process is also said to make the wool extremely clean and hygienic, with a fresh, clean smell, and its employment can be certified to Oeko-Tex Standard Product Class 1 for use for babies, with full traceability provided. Van Riel Eco of Belgium has introduced a wool process without the use of chlorine, and in fact, the company's method of shrink-proofing wool is both odourless and dust-free, as well as being completely free of hazardous chemicals, chlorines, enzymes or ozone. Nano-gold merino under development Nanotechnology is applied in natural fibers as well. Textiles employing nanosize gold in different colours within Merino wool fibres, as colourfast colourants, have been developed at the Victoria University of Wellington in New Zealand. They were presented at the Innovations in Textiles conference held at the Royal College of Physicians in London, UK, from March 18-19 by Professor James H. Johnston. The technology has been developed and progressed successfully to a small pilot scale operation with the production of demonstration textiles and is now being commercialised, he said. When the particle sizes of gold and silver are reduced to dimensions of up to a few tens of nanometres, they exhibit surface plasmon resonance effects, which give rise to a variety of colours depending on the size and shape of the nanoparticles. Spherical gold particles of about 10-20 nm in size are red. As the particle size increases to about 50-70 nm, the colour progressively shifts through the visible spectrum to violet, providing a range of colours. Gold, in its yellow metallic form, occupies a premier position in the world economy, representing high value and quality. Fine Merino wool commands a premier position in high quality fabrics, textiles and fashions. "We have captured the exciting and unique opportunity whereby the prestige and high value of gold is linked directly to high quality wool fibre, using novel nanoscience and technology to provide a new suite of goldwool products for use in high quality fashion apparel, textiles and carpet," said Prof Johnston. "Nanogold exhibits bacterio-static, anti-microbial properties, as well as anti-static properties, both of which are imparted to the respective wool products." The nanogold colourants are chemically bound to the sulphur of the wool proteins in the cuticle and the fibre, providing excellent rub and wash fastness. They also do not fade or denature in light. "Our novel gold-wool technology and products open up new international business opportunities in the high end market for fashion apparel, luxury textiles and carpets," Prof Johnston concluded. Exploring potentials of flax and hemp An area of the natural fibres market, sometimes overlooked, is that of linen, flax and hemp. At the JEC Composites show held in Paris, France, from March 24-26, the European Confederation of Flax and Hemp (CELC) reported that 190,000 tonnes of flax fibre were grown in Europe last year, in addition to a further 30,000 tonnes of hemp. The countries it is grown in are primarily France, Belgium and The Netherlands. CELC with around 10,000 member companies in 14 countries was actively promoting the use of these fibres in technical textiles and says that already, around 10% of production (or 22,000 tonnes) is going into products such as car door interiors and under hood insulation, building insulation, packaging and sports equipment. Lastly, CELC lists the key ecological advantages of the production of these bast fibres as: •Using little energy in production •Natural and mechanical production (retting and scutching) •Little or no plant care required •No need for irrigation •Very low greenhouse gas production •Virtually no CO2 emissions. Caption: CELC promoted the use of flax and hemp in technical textiles at the recent JEC Composites show in ParisAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 51Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 52 - Chemicals & Auxiliaries Greener offerings embraced in dye and chemical market Ecology and sustainability are buzzwords framing the next-generation approach to dyestuff / chemical finish manufacture, application and performance, Ian Holme writes Over the last year, dyemakers and chemical manufacturers have faced mounting challenges because of the increasing costs for raw materials, utilities, labour and transportation. Because of the economic downturn in the textile and clothing industries, dyestuff inventories have built up and consequently dyemaking plants have adopted shorter working time. Restructuring their production capabilities may lead to some dyestuff / chemical manufacturing plants in Western Europe being closed as manufacturers concentrate on production in Asian countries where the majority of textiles are manufactured. Nevertheless, all dyemakers are still conducting research into novel dyes that have improved eco-credentials. Ecology and sustainability are buzzwords that frame the global approach to dyestuff / chemical finish manufacture, application and performance. With the REACH Regulation on the registration, evaluation and authorisation of chemicals, the European Union aims to protect human health and the environment when using chemical substances. Major companies have completed the pre-registration step, which is the precondition for manufacturing chemicals in Europe or importing them into the European Union in the future. The next phase of the REACH Regulation compliance process is the registration of the chemicals based upon their hazard potential and the amount produced or imported. New fibre developments clearly will impact upon research and development trends in dye manufacture and application technology. DyStar and BASF SE have recently signed a cooperation agreement on joint research and development aimed at improving the dyeing of textile polyamide fibres. BASF will develop new fibre polymers with improved dye absorption within its Ultramid product line to allow the use of dyes that achieve high levels of wet fastness and light fastness as well as good fixation properties. New dyes used for polyamide and automobiles DyStar has developed a complete range of reactive dyes for polyamide fibres, namely their Telon RN dyes, which include a three colour combination offering good compatibility together with very high colour fastness performance, e.g. high-end articles that require colour fastness to laundering at temperatures up to 95°C and multiple wash cycles at high temperatures. The Telon RN reactive dye range allows brilliant, deep colours to be achieved, with DyStar's well-established Isolan NHF-S and Telon M dyes complementing the range and fulfilling all the standard colour fastness requirements made by leading retailers. Teijin has high hopes for its Purity polyester polymer, which does not use antimony or other heavy metals as polymerisation catalysts. By 2015, Teijin is aiming to make their Purity polyester polymer account for 10% of global polyester polymer production - both for fibres and polyester bottle resin. Thus, dyed Purity-based polyester fibres should offer a better ecological profile. Clariant have introduced a new addition to their Foron AS disperse dye range for automotive / home textiles containing polyester fibres. Designed for the highest standards of light and hot light fastness Foron Black AS-3LF is a successor to Foron Black AS-LF. The new dye, Foron Black AS-3LF, is some 30% stronger than Foron Black AS-LF and provides good build-up properties. It provides a neutral shade under different light sources and exhibits low colour fading upon exposure to light. Foron Black AS-3LF offers excellent colour fastness to sublimation (up to 30 seconds at 180°C), can be combined with Clariant's Fadex UV-absorbers, and complies with all the common automotive light fastness standards. Foron Dark Blue S-WF from Clariant is a new disperse dye ideally suited for polyester / cotton blend dyeing. It gives an improved reserve on cotton compared with Foron Navy S-WF. Covering a current colour spectrum matching gap Foron Dark Blue S-WF is suitable for both exhaust and continuous (SWIFT) applications. Caption: Greener textile dyes and chemicals are increasingly preferred (Photo: Clariant)Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 53Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 54 - Chemicals & Auxiliaries It exhibits excellent exhaust behaviour, very high colour fastness to sublimation and is engineered as a base element for dark blue and navy shades. DyStar ensures, through its econfidence commitment, that their high quality dyes are produced via clean manufacturing processes and have a sound eco profile. In this way DyStar provides clean, effective and reliable dyes for dyeing textile materials. Their Dianix disperse dye range is extensive and has been broken down into logical groupings according to dye application and performance characteristics. Strict quality control over production and ecological issues thus ensure that DyStar offers a total solution for polyester dyeing. Under the econfidence brand, the company offers Dianix dyes entailing such ecology benefits as no MAK amines, no allergenic disperse dyes, and no restricted polychlorinated aromatic compounds above accepted levels. It has also introduced two new Dianix XF disperse dyes, namely Dianix Navy XF-AR and Dianix Black XF-AR based upon novel molecular structures that deliver excellent dyebath stability as well as good wet fastness levels. Designed for the leading sportswear brands and retailers the performance / ecology properties of the two new Dianix XF dyes meet the most exacting colour fastness and productivity requirements. DyStar's market-leading Dianix SF red disperse dyes are now complemented by Dianix Golden Yellow SF and Dianix Blue SF, which can be used to provide deep ternary combination shades with the highest levels of colour fastness on polyester. Dianix Yellow Brown S-4R 150% is described as "Eco compliant by design" and provides a cost-effective alternative to CI Disperse Orange 30 with a clean eco profile. Dianix Yellow Brown S-4R 150% provides a similar shade and flare to CI Disperse Orange 30 but has a significantly better wet fastness profile combined with good build up on standard polyester and microfibres. Suitable for eco clearing Dianix Yellow Brown S-4R 150% gives excellent performance on polyester microfibre and polyester / elastane blends. There is now a growing demand for DyStar's Optidye PESoptimised dyeing program for polyester using Dianix disperse dyes and DyStar's Sera process auxiliaries to give increased productivity as well as process savings. Using a scour / dyeing process with Optidye PES and optimising the reduction clearing stage is claimed to provide the following advantages: Process savings benefits •43% electricity •46% steam •50% water •39% process time •38% cost in total Productivity benefits •58% productivity increase •higher right-first-time dyeing performance achieved using the Optidye PES program A lower environmental impact in reduction clearing under alkaline conditions is achieved using DyStar's Sera Con P-RCN with caustic soda, or Sera Con P-ACT in acid reduction clearing at pH 3.5-4 compared with traditional sodium dithionite (hydrosulphite) reduction clearing systems. DyStar also developed a new brilliant red reactive dye as extension of their Levafix CA range, namely Levafix Brilliant Red CA. Novel shades achieved in various garment Huntsman Textile Effects have introduced Novacron Navy C-BN and Novacron Navy FN-BN reactive dyes using a new chemistry to achieve dark and navy shades on knitted fabrics, shirting, towelling and bedding. These novel dyes give excellent reproducible results in pad-batch, continuous and exhaust dyeing applications. These dyes give high tinctorial strength and build-up combined with outstanding colour fastness, high fixation and a good washing-off profile. Novacron Navy C-BN and Novacron Navy FN-BN are fully compatible with the existing Novacron C and Novacron FN dye ranges and are suitable for dyeing all types of cellulosic fibres. Their application contributes towards considerable savings in water, energy and labour. Nuva 1910 liquid oil and water repellent finish for cotton and polyamide-based fabrics has been developed by Clariant from fluorocarbon technology, together with a polyamide-based cationic copolymer to significantly improve the efficiency of the fluorocarbon finish. Nuva 1910 liquid has good chemical compatibility and can be used successfully with selected flame retardants. Hydroperm ECO liq from Clariant is designed for use with polyester fabrics. It is a formaldehyde-free hydrophilic finish with good softening properties to provide moisture management in shirtings, outdoor clothing and sportswear by significantly improving transport of moisture, wicking and surface evaporation. Static generation in polyester fabrics can be decreased by Sarex's new antistatic finish termed Fabfeel Conc. This imparts hydrophilic properties to treated fabrics promoting levels of wearer comfort. Sarex (India) has also introduced Coolcot-Dry for improved absorbency and moisture management in polyester and polyester blend fabrics. Key points •Dye and chemical makers completed the pre-registered in accordance to the REACH Regulation, and they are now working to go into the phase of registering chemicals on the basis of their hazard potential and the amount produced or imported. •Reactive and disperse dyes are two areas of greener solutions being intensely researched for varied applications on polyamide fibers, home and automotive textiles etc. •The commitment in clean manufacturing processes is also an integral part of true greener solutions of dyes and chemicals.Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 55Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 56 - Nonwovens/Specialty Textiles Latest material advances showcased at ISPO Munich Specialty textile developers recently manifested some exciting material advances for winter sports that can give an escalated comfort level, accelerate the blood flow through compressive fabrics and more, observes Adrian Wilson Multi-component technical textiles were very prominent at ISPO - the world's largest sporting goods trade show, which was held for the 69th time in Munich earlier this year. The European active sports market that the ISPO show serves is all about performance - and often at extremes, both in terms of bodily exertion and climatic conditions. This demands the very best in all equipment, including technical textiles, and the sector has a clientele that is still willing to pay extremely high prices, too. There was little sign of any global credit crunch at the 2009 ISPO sports and plenty of evidence that consumers are willing to pay a premium for technical garments with true performance properties. This has been helped by the fact that Europe had fantastic snow this winter and many companies reported significantly increased 2008 sales, bolstered by both last year's Beijing Olympics and the Euro 2008 football championships held in Austria and Switzerland. During 2008, the overall sales of speciality European sports retailers climbed to 37.5 billion euros compared to 37 billion euros in 2007, according to Fedas, the European federation of sporting goods retailers, though other forecasts put sales even higher. WL Gore intensively researches for improved comfort One of the leaders in advanced performance sportswear is WL Gore, which at ISPO introduced products based on new lamination technology as an extension of its Comfort Mapping concept introduced a couple of years ago. By employing combinations of Gore-Tex laminates in a single garment, Comfort Mapping manages various parts of the body differently - like a map with several different climatic zones. With its latest lamination method, a choice of lining materials with different characteristics can now be bonded to the Gore-Tex laminate after the main lamination process, offering manufacturers new options for the design of their garments. The result is that jackets, for instance, not only look better, but also address the needs of the various climatic zones of the body more specifically and efficiently, with breathability, wearer comfort, heat regulation and/or fit streamlined where it makes a difference. It's on the inside that these latest Gore jackets are more complex. High-performance lining materials differ in terms of insulation, antibacterial properties, breathability and texture against the skin. Once selected, the outer and inner parts of the jacket can both durably bonded together in Gore's production plants using the new lamination technology. "With the latest Comfort Mapping technology it's possible to satisfy the desire of most end-users for a lightweight, less bulky, two-layer jacket which offers the function of a three-layer garment," said Jürgen Schreiner, who is responsible for the new technology at Gore. "A very lightweight Gore-Tex laminate can be simply equipped with a highly insulating panel of down - something that was previously impossible. Striking the right balance between reduced weight and warmth in one product becomes relatively easy thanks to this technology." The new Comfort Mapping technology is being offered for two Gore-Tex product classes - Soft Shells, for softer and warmer outdoor and snow wear when freedom of movement is called for, and Performance Shells, for all kinds of outdoor and leisure time activities, offering enhanced wearer comfort and durable protection from wind and rain. Adidas, Adidas Porsche Design, Bailo, Gore Running Wear, Gore Bike Wear, Mammut, The North Face, Rossignol, Schöffel, Scott and Spyder are all introducing this new technology in their collections for winter 2009/2010. At the heart of WL Gore's proprietary processes for fabric laminates, in addition to products for Caption: Example of Gore's latest Comfort Mapping advanced lamination technology Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 57Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 58 - Nonwovens/Specialty Textiles electronic signal transmission, medical implants and membranes, filtration and sealant products, is the fluorocarbon-based polymer PTFE. Gore holds more than 2,000 patents worldwide in respect of this one polymer. Still family owned, the company is headquartered in Newark, Delaware, USA, and employs approximately 8,000 people at 45 facilities throughout the world. Founded in 1958, it now has annual sales of about US$2 billion, with manufacturing operations in the US, Germany, Scotland, Japan, and China. Constructing multi-layer fabrics for extreme sports players Zimtstern and Sympatex Technologies also introduced a highly functional three-layer laminate designed especially for the demands of modern snowboarding sports. Combining an extremely sturdy 6.6 nylon material for the exterior layer and Sympatex higH2Out technology, the ideal blend of heavy-duty work wear and the temperature control required in active sports is said to have been realised in Zimtstern's new DLX range. The soft inner lining, printed with a classic plaid pattern, is made from 100% recycled polyester and is said to offer outstanding absorbency. Combined with the hydrophilic, PTFE-free Sympatex membrane it can rapidly transport perspiration from the inside to the outside of the garment. Sympatex higH2Out material can withstand a 20,000 mm head of water in a water pressure test of 20,000 g/m²/24h. The outer layer's natural look is achieved by a newly developed wax finishing process, which brings to mind classic hunting and equestrian clothing. At the same time, a completely PFOS and PFOA-free surface protects the fabric from water and dirt. Caption: Zimtstern's new DLX range combines nylon 6.6 and Sympatex higH2Out technology Engineered gradient compression points to future Meanwhile, the future of technical sports wear is in engineered gradient compression, according to Australian company Skins, whose BioAcceleration Technology is designed to capitalise on its benefits in a range of tops amd leggings. When compression is engineered to apply a balanced and accurate surface pressure over specific body parts, it triggers an acceleration of blood flow. This increases oxygen delivery to working muscles to enhance their performance. The circulation improvements also help the body to eliminate lactic acid and other metabolic wastes. The combination of these effects allows the body to work at a higher rate for longer. The improved oxygenation is most marked in recovery from exercise. As a result, muscle repair is accelerated, with a greater effect if next-to-body Skins garments are worn for longer. Studies on medical bandaging have also demonstrated that compression supports the sensorimotor system and this has been applied to the latest sports socks introduced by German company CEP, which employs a "cell-active" fibre called CellTex in its products. Pressure from the outside - such as that from compression sportswear and socks - activates the nerve tracts of the musculature and increases the speed of contraction of participating muscles. This leads to a better co-ordination during complex movements. While running on uneven ground in forests, for example, a shorter reaction time can prevent painful ankle twists. Further protection in CEP's sports socks is provided by an additional enforcement in the Achilles tendon which can, for instance, prevent irritated tendons. Padded foot soles cushion and prevent irritations caused by pressure spots, while ventilation channels ensure a pleasant foot climate in CEP's performance socks. CellTex fibre is said to physiologically activate skin and muscle cells, providing a comfortable, skin sympathetic and climate-regulating wear. Thanks to the 3D fit, the socks also adjust to the anatomy of the foot and the calf. Caption: CEP graphic illustrating the benefits of compression on the body's circulation Advanced materials absorb shock UK company d3o introduced new knitted core base layers for skiing and snowboarding at ISPO - with its intelligent shock absorption technology already integrated into them. D3o material is comprised of intelligent molecules which flow with natural movement, but on shock, simply lock together to provide a protective barrier. This is like the way natural joints in the human body– such as the knees - are designed to work when subject to shock impact. The molecules within d3o flow past each other at low rates of movement when a body is moving naturally, but when subject to an impact that requires them to move very quickly, they instantaneously link with each other to form a protective barrier. Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 59 - Nonwovens/Specialty Textiles As soon as the impact has passed, they immediately unlock to provide flow and normal flexibility. This all happens in less than a thousandth of a second, and the faster they are impacted the more quickly they react. New seamless knitted compression base layer d3o garments are available in polypropylene and polyamide, as well as polypropylene and polyester blends. "In addition to making a massive noise about our partners' products with our extensive marketing support, we are now taking away the hassles of development and manufacturing from them as well,” said the company's marketing manager, Charlotte Gough.“We have formed a relationship with a manufacturer in Asia to develop this solution, in order to overcome the minor integration and production problems for brands who do not make their own base layers previously, or haven't integrated d3o into their products before." The company continues to develop its material. D3o Flo, which will be introduced before the end of 2009, is said to be lighter, softer and more flexible than the d3o Shock product currently manufactured, and also to be even more effective in terms of shock absorption. Companies featuring d3o technology at ISPO included Berghaus, Black Diamond, Head, Helly Hansen Hestra, Ignite RED, Schoeffel, Sessions and Spyder. Caption: Charlotte Gough exhibits extraordianry properties of D3o's shock absorption technology Seamless apparel attract sports lovers Making its debut at this year's ISPO show was Vital Eco-wear, with a new range of seamless garments aimed at the more mature person. Founder and CEO of the company Talya Hanan has drawn on her many years of experience in the industry - working with Israel's Tefron and Nike Pro, and later as a consultant to mills as far afield as Poland, Turkey and China - to select the most suitable functional fibres and construction techniques for fit-for-purpose sportswear. Of the company's four product lines, Yoga & More garments are made from Eco-Deosoft, a very soft fabric containing natural bamboo fibres with anti-bacterial properties, while the fibers' micro-gaps let the skin breath. Eco-Comformance, the fabric employed in the company's Workout & Fitness range consists of a blend of bamboo, micro-polypropylene and elastane while the Outdoor Action range is made of Eco-Aerodry, a fabric based on recycled materials, using Cocona's activated carbon fibre derived from coconut shells. This gives the fabric high performance properties including wicking moisture away from the skin for quick evapouration on the fabric's surface, odour absorption, and even natural UV protection. For its Winter Sports range, the company developed Eco-Thermal, a fabric consisting of BeCool temperature regulating polyamide, with polypropylene and elastane. Aside from its advanced temperature regulating properties to keeping the body dry and warm, Winter Sports garments include seamlessly built-in areas of extra protection and 3D stretch and mesh areas for advanced ventilation. Caption: Pictured is the Vital Eco-wear team at ISPO 2009, from left to right, Bernadette Prinz, Talya Hanan and Derry Hanan Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 60 - China Focus Global textile trade affected by new regulations Chinese textile trade researcher, Xie Qiuqi, observes that more technical barriers to trade were announced last year and their impacts are expected to be more visible this year More technical trade barriers have shown up in the international scene these couple of years. About 1,470 notifications relating to technical barriers to trade were announced last year, up 21.59% from the previous year. Of which, 39 reports affected textile and leather products, and another 14 were related to the garment sector, up 30% and 7.69% respectively from the previous year. Chinese enterprises were advised to pay more attention to the growing concerns of eco-friendly or green textiles among developed countries and the related information. Due to the mounting trade regulations and global economic downturn, they are also advised to diversify markets and consider both overseas and domestic markets. Trade environment in 2008 Following the outbreak of the global financial crisis, the international community have put forward a series of economic packages to save their home countries from the risk of deep economic recession. On the other hand, trade regulations have also been introduced. Twenty-six out of the 53 reports related to textiles and garment were released by Rumania, making up 49.06% of the world's total last year. Rumania is itself a leading textile and apparel exporting country in East Europe, and the related trade between China is small. Its trade regulation thus does not affect China much. Trade regulations established by such trade partners as USA, Germany, the Netherlands and Thailand last year have more significance to Chinese exports. The US The US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) released the Circular G/TBT/N/USA/388 concerning rules and regulations of Textile Fibre Products Identification Act through the WTO Secretariat in April 2008. It was the only circular released by the US authorities last year, affecting the export of China's polyester staple fiber and other products to the US. Polyester staple fiber is one of the major textile exports in the provinces of Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Ningbo alone exported such fibers worth US$85.34 million in 2007. Additionally, the United States International Trade Commission (USITC) announced that adult clothing products imported into the country must also meet the requirements for safety performance initially imposed on garment of baby and kids under the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act. Caption: USITC regulates safety performance of adult clothing more strictly last year Germany and the Netherlands Last year, Germany released the act concerning the prohibition of the importation, processing and marketing of products derived from seals (G/TBT/N/DEU/5), whereas the Netherlands notified the act banning fur animal farming (G/TBT/N/NLD/80) and amendments of the Flora and Fauna Act in connection with the prohibition of trade in Cape fur seal products (G/TBT/N/NLD/83). The use of fur in fashion and particularly high fashion are impacted by these new regulations. The legislative bills in Germany and the Netherlands have no effect on fur products already legally exported to other member counties of the European Union. Asia-Pacific region Two circulars from Thailand concerning the modification of the G/TBT/N/THA/174 and G/TBT/N/THA/177 were notified last year. With these two circulars, the Thai Industrial Standards Institute (TISI) aimed to modify the use of direct dyes and active dyes under the standard of TIS 739-2549(2006). It is expected that Thailand's textile industry is benefited substantially under the Japan-Thailand Economic Partnership Agreement (JTEPA) concluded in late 2007. As a consequence, Thailand's trade position among the ASEAN countries changed radically last year. Japan used to import textiles heavily from China. About 90% of Japan's textile imports were shipped from China, but now aboutAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 61Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 62 - China Focus 20%-35% of fabric and fiber imports shipped to Japan come from the ASEAN countries. The growth of Thailand's textile export value increased rapidly partly due to the JTEPA. Foreign-invested textile manufacturing units in Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia can also favor textile exports of Thailand. Moreover, under the agreement between Japan and Thailand, the Japanese side agreed to provide assistance to the Thai industry with Japanese experts on bleaching and dyeing techniques. The aim was to help Thai players manufacture uniquely dyed fabrics that are demanded by the Japanese market. With the help of Japanese expertise, Thailand was able to develop new markets (e.g. Japan) although its shares in the traditional markets such as the US and Europe was diminishing, as well as to upgrade the Thai dyeing industry by purchasing advanced machinery. Caption: ASEAN countries seeking tighter economic ties with Japan (Photo: www.vietnam-un.org) Rumania Out of 26 circulars released by Rumania in 2008, seven were involved with technical measurements of fibers and five related to leather products (including how to use certain animal skins), which also form part of the related national standards of the country. As a leading textile and apparel exporting country in East Europe, Rumania urgently needs to standardize the use of raw fiber materials (including animal skins) for the manufacture of textile and leather products. Rumania is the third largest clothing exporter to the EU, after China and Turkey. Currently, low-cost garment products are manufactured in China, India, Bangladesh and etc, whereas the middle-range ready-made apparel are made in Europe, especially in southeast Europe including Romania. Nonetheless, approximately 85% of the Romanian textile manufacturers engage with garment processing operations, and the country has not actively developed its own fiber and fabric production. China In 2008, China released the circulars with regard to three national standards, on the safety and hygiene performance of shoes, moisture regain of textile materials, and instructions for use of textiles and apparel as consumer goods. Although China is a major textile and apparel exporter in the world, the country has few circulars of technical barriers to trade in the sector. The number of textile and garment circulars accounted for 2.05% of the total circulars released by China last year. Health concerns heighten in Europe For the global textile industry, the PFOS (perfluorooctane sulfonates) Directive is an important regulation in recent years. (Remark: The EU authorities explained that the risks posed to health and environment by PFOS have been assessed in accordance with the principles of European Council Regulation, and a need to reduce the risks to health and the environment was identified.) First released by year-end 2006, the PFOS Directive was implemented among the EU members since June 2008. This European directive limits the use of PFOS in textiles and related coating materials, and the limitation is more stringent than the previous directive of 2005/0244 (COD). PFOS is used in the commercial and industrial fields in China, including a number of China's highly competitive export products of textiles, leather and carpet. Chinese textile finishing enterprises are advised to carefully select their suppliers and make plans to better cope with the new directive of PFOS. Enterprises can also take a further step to get their PFOS-free products tested and labeled as a way of value addition. Environmental protection has become a discussion topic around the world. Countries aiming to gain more shares in the international market are rapidly adopting stringent standards in the area of eco-friendliness for industrial goods. In order to enter into the high-end fabric market, Chinese enterprises are advised to intensify their efforts of research and new product development, especially those green products that give maximum performance but minimal environmental footprint. As the external environment turns unfavorable, many Chinese enterprises have changed their strategy and aimed at domestic sales. Due to the global financial crisis and reduced purchasing power of the developed regions, overseas enterprises also eye on the Chinese market with its population of over one billion. On the other hand, Asian countries, as well as free-trade areas and nations, have issued their national technical standards. The emergence of regions with a preferential tax rate will impact the flow of goods globally. Therefore, China should pay attention to international trade trends, as well as technical regulations established by countries in Asia, no matter big or small countries they are. China should also participate more actively in the establishment of technical standards. Caption: The EU restricts the use of PFOS, a man-made chemical compound found hazardous to animals and humans The article was contributed by Xie Qiuqi (謝秋琪), a research fellow at the Hubei WTO/TBT Notification and Consultancy Center (湖北WTO/TBT通報諮詢中心) and the Institute of Standards of Hubei Province (湖北省標準化研究院). Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 63Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 64 - China Focus Dalian rises as a garment city in North China Strategically situated in the Bohai-Rim Economic Zone (環渤海經濟圈) and serving as a gateway of North China to the world, Dalian has actively developed its garment industry for the North Asia market, such as Japan, as well as the western markets by Staff Reporters Dalian (大連), a Chinese city in Liaoning Province (遼寧省), first developed its garment industry in the late 1970s. After developing for over three decades, the city has gradually earned its reputation in the garment sector due to good sales performance in home markets and abroad. The emergence of such garment enterprises as Dayang (大楊), Bihai (碧海) and Sunlaura (桑扶蘭), garment products from Dalian are known for their manufacturing experience and knowledge in consumer tastes of Japan and western countries. Strategically located in the Bohai-Rim Economic Zone, Dalian is a gateway of North China to the outside world. The geographic location of Dalian favors transportation via water and land, making it a natural port connecting different parts of China to the Far East, South Asia, North America, Europe and elsewhere. By the end of 2008, there were around 99,900 workers employed in Dalian’s garment industry. Garment manufacturers in the city specialize in the production of formal wear, uniforms, women’s fashion and intimate wear. More than 80% enterprises are export-oriented. There are totally 302 sizable garment enterprises (with a registered capital over RMB5 million) in Dalian. Last year, sizable garment enterprises in Dalian produced 96.48 million pieces of garment products, up 11.5% from the previous year. Their sales revenue reached RMB13.42 billion, up 13.9% year on year. In addition, they registered an export value of RMB10.65 billion, up 4.9% year-on-year and generated a profit of RMB740 million, up 43.8%. Caption: Dalian is one of the leading cities in North China Learning overseas expertise Conventional garment enterprises of Dalian serve as original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) for Japanese, Korean, European and American brands. The Dalian textile and garment industry developed first mainly as OEMs, allowing local enterprises to learn about the use of internationally advanced technologies, equipment and management systems," said Pei Xianfang (裴憲芳), a director at the Dalian Garment Trade Association (大連市服裝行業協會). Today, some of theses enterprises have advanced themselves through developing their own brands, which provide them more opportunities in today's fast-changing markets. Manager of planning department at Dalian's Bihai (碧海), Li Wenying (李文穎), said that enterprises should explore their own specializing markets. Take Bihai as an example, it dedicates itself to the manufacture of work wear and uniforms for police and military forces. Dayang Group (大楊), a forerunner in the city of Dalian to establish its own brand of China, namely "Trands"(創世). Initially working as an OEM for Giorgio Armani, a top global brand of men's fashion, Dayang joined hands with an international designer, Luigi Proietti, in 2000 in the establishment of Trands brand. The Dayang Group has currently some 20 subsidiaries, which collectively employ a workforce of 11,000 people. It annually manufactured five million business suits for middle and premium market segments. The Group said that one third of business suits sold in Japan are shipped from the Dayang Group. Other clients of the Group include Marks & Spencer and Macy's. Dalian city also houses a number of local garment brands including Sunlaura (桑扶蘭), Fuge (富哥) and Asewang (亞瑟王). Caption: Business suits of Dayang GroupAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 65 - China Focus Dalian garment fair promotes local development The Dalian International Fashion Festival was first launched two decades ago. In the fair's 2007 edition, the event attracted 51,000 trade visitors, in which 2,618 were overseas buyers from 85 countries and regions. During the fair, a garment and textile industry park was introduced to promote creativity, design and brand building among the local enterprises of Dalian. Talent was also emphasized so as to contribute to the long-term development of Dalian in the fashion industry. The Dalian industry is open to new ideas and technologies. Through the trade fair, industry associations and players are eager to learn from overseas experience. The trade fair organizer visited Japan and met delegates from the country's key textile organizations and enterprises this March. Caption: Garment making in Dalian has been spurred by trade fairs Tiding over global financial crisis Like many places in China and elsewhere, the Dalian garment industry felt the chill of the global financial crisis. Some enterprises faced tight cash flow and sharply decreases in orders received. "Many enterprises did not feel the impact of the crisis until the Chinese new year in early 2009 and they had to adjust the business plans rapidly," said Ms Pei at the Dalian garment association. She explained that larger enterprises tend to have more resources to cope with the economic pressure, whereas some smaller enterprises faced closures, especially when they could not obtain new investment (to ease cash flow) or failed to receive new orders. Nonetheless, there are enterprises that are doing fairly well. Deputy Manager at the brand promotion department of Dalian Fushan Garment (大連福山), Yu Linhao (于臨好), said the company was planning to expand. The 60-year-old Japanese-owned company continues to receive orders amid the quiet market environment. To further penetrate overseas markets in Europe and North America, the company established a subsidiary in the US and a trading company in China early this year. "The financial crisis is affecting the industry considerably, but it also brings opportunities. Market consolidation favors larger companies, which are capable of expanding production capacity, for instance. As consumers alter their purchasing patterns, it gives opportunities to new product innovations. It is also a time for enterprises to streamline and enhance their internal management," said Mr Yu. Fuge attributed to the trust between clients as a critical support in the current global economic downturn. Representative of the company commented that trust was built with these long-term clients. Mr Li from Bihai mentioned that the company was less affected by the economic downturn, as it was able to maintain an annual growth of 14% last year, partly because the segment of uniforms was less susceptible to the global economic changes. Bihai built the first and the only vocational garment design and research institute in China, employing over 30 researchers at the moment, according to Mr Li. He further explained that the institute applied three patents last year for its R&D efforts, and four or five patent applications were under way this year. In particular, the leather wear for Chinese motor policemen was approved recently and will be adopted throughout China in near future. Uniforms worn by the Chinese special police forces at the 60th anniversary celebration ceremony this year were provided by Bihai. Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 66 - Retail Scene Stage-inspired lingerie previewed in Paris and HK At the recent Salon International de La Lingerie (SIL) organized by Eurovet in the French fashion capital of Paris, numerous creative lingerie collections designed for the coming seasons were placed at the center stage Premium lingerie that lures and charms The catwalk show of Ultra Lingerie in Paris welcomed some 850 guests. Four awards were given at the exhibition. •Ultra-Gourmandise Award named by the jury: Prelude / Sophie Hallette / Boselli •Fabrics Award: Ritratti / Eurostick / JuniorHagen/Boselli •Jury's Special Prize: Empreinte / Seram / Forster Rohner / Liebaert •Lingerie Industry Prize selected by the audience: Prelude / Sophie Hallette / Boselli Caption: Selmark / Boselli Caption: Fishbelly / Maute + Renz Textil / Soltiss, and Anderes Broderies / Siva SRL Caption: Chantelle / Sakae Lace / Forster Rohner Caption: Empreinte / Seram / Forster Rohner / Liebaert Caption: Prelude / Sophie Hallette / Boselli Caption: Seram Caption: Only Hearts / Sophie Hallette Caption: Ritratti / Eurostick / Junior Hagen / BoselliAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 67 - Retail Scene Creativity polishes daily underwear Eight daily fashion shows at the SIL aroused the interest of some 7,000 buyers who checked out newest lingerie collections characterised by glamour, aestheticism and exceptional originality. Caption: Chasney Beauty Caption: Impetus Caption: Elise Anderegg Caption: Rosa Faia Beautyfull Caption: Simone Perele Unusual intimate wear stand out in Hong Kong At the Eurovet-held Hong Kong Mode Lingerie organized this April, unconventional collections from the Ultra Lingerie 2009 show were demonstrated, in addition to pieces designed by students of ACE Style Institute of Intimate Apparel (ASIIA), Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University (PolyU). Caption: Elise Anderegg / Soltiss Caption: Eva Rachline/ Codentel/ Bacus Caption: Celia Kong / ASIIA, PolyU Caption: Chesko Ng / ASIIA, PolyU Caption: Chesko Ng / ASIIA, PolyU Photos of SIL: Eurovet Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 68 - Retail Scene New jeans using Dow XLA fiber launched Dow Fiber Solutions, a business unit of The Dow Chemical Company, partnered with Paige Premium Denim to launch a next-generation Dow XLA fiber in an exclusive "Paigeaholic" jean. Dow Fiber Solutions describes Dow XLA as the world's first and only olefin-based stretch fiber, offering benefits for the treatment, durability, and comfort of denim. Dow Fiber Solutions has aggressively penetrated Dow XLA fiber in the denim market with premier partners at all levels of the supply chain, from world-class denim textile mills to globally recognized consumer brands. Holiday Watson, global public affairs and brand leader for Dow Fiber Solutions explained that these collaborative partnerships play an important role to influence other global brand leaders to use Dow XLA fiber to bring differentiated value to the market. Caption: Well-shaped jeans made of Dow XLA fiber Designer Jil Sander allies with Fast Retailing Fast Retailing entered into a design consulting agreement this March for its Uniqlo brand with a consultancy firm owned and represented by Jil Sander. According to the agreement, Ms Sander would involve herself personally in all aspects of the design and making of the Uniqlo men's and women's apparel products for global retail and, when the opportunity arises, the development of a special Uniqlo collection. Fast Retailing expected to offer customers worldwide Uniqlo products that have been created in cooperation with Ms Sander from the fall/winter season 2009. Caption: Fast Retailing co-operates with Jil Sander to enhance Uniqlo's fashion basic "It goes without saying that Fast Retailing has the highest regard for Ms Sander's skills as a designer and creator of clothes and in particular for her ability to create pure forms free of unnecessary excess, her stringent material selection and her exquisite tailoring and use of materials. These special features are a great match for‘fashion basic’offered by Uniqlo. We are convinced that this natural affinity and the future creativity cultivated jointly by Uniqlo and Ms Sander will give way to considerable benefits and will greatly enhance Uniqlo products and promote even higher quality garments," stated Fast Retailing. Zara stores to be present in India next year Inditex and the Tata Group signed an agreement early this year to form a joint venture to develop Zara stores in India. Inditex controls 51% of the venture, while Trent Limited, a Tata Group company, has the remaining 49%. The partnership planned to open its first stores starting in 2010 in New Delhi, Mumbai and other major cities of India. During a signing ceremony at Inditex headquarters in Arteixo, Spain, Noel N. Tata, Managing Director of Trent Limited, a Tata Enterprise, said: "We see great opportunities for Zara in a country which is becoming increasingly fashion conscious. Zara has proven itself capable of quickly adapting to changing consumer tastes across geographies. This association with brand Zara is our endeavour to bring a world class brand and experience to fashion conscious Indians." Meanwhile, Inditex's Deputy Chairman and CEO, Pablo Isla, emphasised the excellent opportunity the Indian market poses for Zara's retail business: "We view our entry into the Indian market to be of significant strategic importance. We are extremely delighted to be associating with Trent from the Tata Group, one of India's largest and most respected business houses. Our retail offering has been very well received by shoppers in Asian markets, and we have rapidly expanded there. And now India will be one of our top priorities in the region." Caption: Inditex's Pablo Isla (left) shaking hands with Noel N. Tata of Trent Limited after the agreement-signing ceremony Premium apparel helps build sturdy body shape The IFBB Professional League Consumer Products Group in the US unveiled to bodybuilding and fitness enthusiasts the first officially licensed collection of IFBB PRO workout and lifestyle clothing. The new apparel is designed, engineered and gym-tested with features that include proven patented technologies, high performance applications and textile innovations, according to the International Federation of Bodybuilders (IFBB). The initial line of IFBB PRO Apparel includes breathable, moisture-management performance and compression workout tops, tees, hoodies and caps. More new items will be introduced over time. The collection allows wearers to experience the benefits of active performance, athletic compression and lifestyle items that take wearers from the gym to the street, the federation said. The apparel is available at select specialty retailers.Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 69Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 70 - Show Watcher China Interdye 2009 showcases 400 exhibitors in Shanghai Staged in INTEX Shanghai and Shanghai mart this April, the 9th China International Dye Industry, Pigments and Textile Chemicals Exhibition (China Interdye 2009) hosted more than 400 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions in a total exhibition floor space of 20,000 square meters were provided, including 7,000 square meters for overseas exhibitors. The some 400 exhibitors included both world known brands such as DyStar, BASF, Kekai, Tanatex, Jingsimai, Novozymes and domestic leading companies such as Longsheng, Runtu, Jihua, Yabang, and Jiehong. There were also delegations from Korea, India, Taiwan, Tianjin city, as well as professional purchaser groups from India, Vietnam, Bengal, Korea and etc, according to the organizer, Shanghai International Exhibition Corporation. Dyestuffs and organic pigments are widely used in textiles, the light industry, paint and printing ink sectors, etc. In 2008, China produced 678,000 tons of dyestuffs and 185,000 tons of organic pigments; import and export volume for dyestuffs and organic pigments totaled 296,000 tons and 152,000 tons, respectively; trade volume for import and export of dyestuffs and organic pigments reached US$1.648 billion and US$1.142 billion, up 14% and 9.7% year on year, respectively, the organizer said. Hong Kong Interstoff positioned as eco-friendly textile fair The 2009 Spring edition of Interstoff Asia Essential this March attracted nearly 7,000 visitors to Hong Kong from 42 countries and regions, including those from Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, the US, Indonesia, Australia, South Korea, India, Japan and Thailand. "Interstoff Asia Spring's reputation as an eco-friendly global sourcing platform is well on the road to becoming established, as was demonstrated by the high number of exhibitors displaying eco-fabrics (32% of total) on the fair," said Messe Frankfurt. On the fairground, BASF Textile Chemicals explained how ecology and economy can go hand in hand through innovative solutions focusing on three key aspects: consumer safety, resource saving and climate protection. "We predict more opportunities in the current weaker-demand environment, as a greater number of manufacturers in China and Asia have come to apprehend the importance of value addition over the price-reduction strategy. Manufacturers began to inquire into a long-term approach of adding value at a lower total cost, meaning that they can reduce their total manufacturing cost by utilizing eco-friendlier chemicals of BASF, for instance," said Paul Mui, Head of Business Management Textile Chemicals East Asia. In the meantime, Sachiko Inoue, Trend Planner of JFW Japan Creation in Tokyo told ATA Journal at the Interstoff Asia exhibition: "The current situation is tough for everyone in the field of textile and apparel, but we remain a positive attitude and continue innovating in various aspects. We are aware of looking for something not developed in other countries. In that direction, we have developed compound fabrics, blending natural fibers with synthetic fibers such as polyester and polyurethane (PU). The engineered fabrics combine the characteristics of different fibers to offer unique features and hand feel etc." She considered Japanese enterprises are strong in the finishing process. This gives added value shown in the expression of the surface. In addition, Japanese enterprises are finding out ways that are both eco-friendly and uniquely Japanese in style. JFW Japan Creation in Tokyo organized by the Japan Fashion Week Organization is held in April and October each year. Caption: Sachiko Inoue promotes JFW Japan Creation in Hong Kong ITM 2009 promoted at Arabian forum Under the Patronage of the Minister of Trade and Industry of the Arab Republic of Egypt, Rachid Mohamed Rachid, the Arab Textile Industries Forum convened on March 15-16, in Cairo, Egypt. The Forum, organized by the Arab Federation for Textile Industries (AFTI) and Al-Iktissad Wal-Aamal Group in cooperation with the Egyptian Chamber of Textile Industries (ECTI), attracted a wide level of participation, including Arab ministers, government officials and policy makers, private sector leaders and investors in the textile industry, and Arab and international experts, in addition to major European and Asian manufacturers of textiles machinery, equipment and raw materials. Presenting at the forum as a speaker, Adil Nalbant, the Chairman of Temsad provided information about the role of Temsad in the integration of Turkey with the world and its activities, as well as he invited the whole Arabian world to ITM 2009 International Textile Machinery Exhibition, which will be organized with the cooperation of Teknik Ltd, Tuyap and Temsad from June 6 to 10, in Istanbul, Turkey. Vietnamese textile show draws attention from ASEAN countries Held this April in Hochiminh City, Vietnam, the Saigon Textile & Garment Industry Expo & Saigon Fabric and Garment Accessories Expo (Saigontex Expo) housed a wide range of exhibitors from 18 countries/regions including Austria, China, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Italy, Malaysia, Japan, Netherlands, Pakistan, Russia, Singapore, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, USA and Vietnam. With the "Machineries Section" and the "Fabrics & Accessories Section", the expo provided a one-stop sourcing market for trade buyers, the organizer said. Top officials of Asean Federation of Textile Industries (AFTEX) member countries including Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar,Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 71 - Show Watcher the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam, in addition to China, India, Japan, and Korea, are invited to Vietnam to have a meeting regarding the "Experiences, difficulties and opportunities facing the textile industry in 2009." Innovation awards to be given at Techtextil and Avantex shows The award-winning developments of both the Techtextil Innovation Award and the Avantex Innovation Award will be presented to international trade visitors and exhibitors at Techtextil in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, from June 16 to 18. The Techtextil Innovation Award is open for entries from the research field. Additionally, the Award will be given for new materials, products, production facilities, manufacturing and finishing technologies for use in the twelve Techtextil areas of applications. In line with the International Natural Fibres Congress, which is being organised by Messe Frankfurt parallel to Techtextil, the Award will also be presented for new materials and products for technical applications based on or combined with natural fibres. The developments must be connected with the production or use of technical textiles, nonwovens or textile-reinforced materials. The Avantex Innovation Award will be presented for new developments in connection with materials, technology, the processing and finishing of, for example, new fibres and yarns, new equipment, nano-technology and electronics in garments. Fashion materials and applications such as medical textiles and garments are included. Caption: Newest nonwoven technologies will be introduced at Techtextil 2009. Pictured is a new Trützschler TC-07-H card Conferences European latest technologies announced in Belgium At the 4th Annual Public Conference of the European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing in Brussels, Belgium, in April this year, some 220 participants from European industry and academia attended to learn about the overview of the wide-ranging textile and clothing research and development work supported by EU funding schemes. Since its establishment in 2004, there are now more than 30 collaborative textile research projects under the Technology Platform are on-going with a total research funding commitment of 220 million euros. The projects range from the development and application of new fibres and textile materials, to innovation in production processes targeting new functionalities, resource-efficiency or radically higher productivity or flexibility. These new materials and processes are combined into prototypes of innovative high added value products for growing markets such as technical, protective, medical or smart textiles. Some projects look into the establishment of new organisational concepts and business models across product development, manufacturing and distribution of textiles and clothing. Karl Mayer hosts meeting of German knitting specialists Late this May, the German section of the International Federation of Knitting Technologists (IFKT) invited its members to its annual conference and assembly. It was hosted by Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik in Obertshausen, Germany. On the first day of the conference, the assembled knitting specialists elected a committee for the period 2009 to 2012 and prepare for a re-election of the president, followed by a report on the 44th International Congress held in September 2008 in St Petersburg, Russia. The members' conference were followed by a series of reports with the emphasis on technical textiles. Professor Marcus O. Weber presented a paper from the Niederrhein Technical University on the theme of measurement and evaluation of the yarn tension in stitch formation. Dr Uwe Moehring, from the Thueringen-Vogtland Textile Research Institute, presented the results of his research work. Dr Peter Offermann, from the Tudalit Proprietary Association and Dresden Technical University, discussed details of the strategies in knowledge transfer in the textile reinforcement of concrete. Theory and practice were combined on the second day of the conference. Climate change to be discussed at Dornbirn congress The two-and-half-day Dornbirn-MFC (man-made fiber congress) will focus on the challenges and opportunities brought by the climate change, which is the main topic in the lectures of the congress. The congress will be held on September 16-18 in Dornbirn, Austria. More than 100 expert lectures will be presented, following a selection by the programme committee out of a large number of highly qualified proposals. The plenary session on the opening day will include a lecture of the Zoological State Collection (Germany) on climate change and a lecture from the American Chemical Society (USA) on green chemistry. The AVK (Association of Composite Manufacturers) of Germany will present market-development trends for composites, and CIRFS (Belgium) will speak about development strategies for the European man-made fibers industry. Some 30 lectures will be presented under the topic of new developments in fibers (e.g. bi-component fibers and nano-technology). Other sessions will cover such topics as fibers for medical and hygiene textiles (including smart textiles), fibers for composites, transportation and professional wear. Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 72 - Corporate Profile Crisis management of a leading Indonesian denim maker Featured company: APAC Asep Setiaharja has recently met the head of Indonesia's biggest denim manufacturer, Benny Soetrisno, and discussed with him how to withstand the current straining economic situation PT APAC Inti Corpora (APAC) claims to be the biggest denim manufacturer in Indonesia with an annual denim production of 60 millions yards, which is also the company's most important business. It has also other business divisions to support denim manufacturing, including the manufacture of yarns and greige fabrics. Through its sister company, APAC has expanded its business in garment sector. APAC was formed through an acquisition of a large spinning and weaving factory. Since then, under the helm of President-Director Benny Soetrisno, the new company - APAC - ventured into the denim manufacturing that has become the company's core business. Meanwhile, APAC maintains a large production capacity of spinning and weaving in the same manufacturing location. Strategically lied in Central Java, APAC is committed to serving the global textile demand and markets its product to more than 70 countries across five major continents. The current global crisis has influenced almost all business sectors, including textiles. It is thus interesting to know how a giant company, like APAC, withstands the straining situation. In what way it manages to meet challenges and capture opportunities. To answer these questions, ATA Journal conducted an exclusive interview with President-Director of PT APAC Inti Corpora, Benny Soetrisno, at his office in Jakarta, Indonesia. ATA: What is your key success factor in the textile business? Mr Soetrisno: Employee is the most valuable asset for us. There is a corporate belief in APAC: "People are the company. We can buy technology, and we can buy machinery, but loyal employees have to be developed through a good plan in management. To manage employee well we have to pay attention in two aspects, namely skill and aptitude. Developing a skillful person is not as hard as developing a good aptitude employee who the company needs. For that reason, APAC founded GRIPAC (Griya Pelatihan APAC) as its training center with a comprehensive and holistic human resources management program. APAC understands the importance of nurturing human resources, and competent people are given full chance to develop their skills and capacity at APAC. ATA: What is APAC's strategy in facing the current economic toughness? Mr Soetrisno: It was evident that the current global crisis has been reining up the global demand on textiles. This condition caused unbalanced demand and supply. Consequently, there is excessive supply everywhere, which has pulled down the price level and intensified the competition among suppliers. To survive the current condition, APAC has to be more cost-efficient along all lines — in the production process and the supporting process as well. There are two points of interest to enhance cost-efficiency in the production process, which are (1) control on purchasing costs of raw materials and (2) control on manufacturing costs. To control purchasing costs of raw materials, APAC adopts the following policies. APAC mainly uses three fiber materials: cotton, polyester and rayon. Cotton is partially imported from the international market and the rest are obtained from domestic vendors. As the Rupiah rate dropped against the US dollar during the crisis, the (domestic) cotton has got more expensive while international cotton price got lower. On the other hand, the domestic price of polyester and rayon have been relatively stable. APAC, therefore, changes its production strategy. The production of polyester and rayon yarns and fabrics, including their blends, has been increased while that of cotton/ blend products has been decreased. Caption: Benny SoetrisnoAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 73 - Corporate Profile Subsequently, to control the manufacturing cost, APAC has paid increased attention in two particular sections: electric power and manpower. Energy audit of all machinery and motor devices was conducted to determine the best way of energy management. The audit report outlined a number of recommendations and we have acted accordingly to achieve improvements, resulting in less consumption of electricity of machinery and motor devices without compromising the productivity. Restructuring of job allocation and management structure was undergone to better control manpower costs. For instance, under-load employees were given more job tasks. Similar to other companies, APAC was not able to avoid labor lay-off, which amounted to about 10%-15% of labors, including retired employees. Cost control was enforced not only in the production process, but also in the supporting areas. Currently, APAC is working to find most valuable logistic routes at the best reasonable price. The operation of accounting and purchasing activities were relocated from the headquarters in Jakarta to the factory plant in Bawen, Central Java to save costs. Caption: PT APAC Inti Corpora (APAC) ATA: Any reduction of production during crisis? Mr Soetrisno: The product portfolio of APAC can be divided into two categories, best selling items and less-selling products. APAC has to be realistic when facing the current condition. Hence, APAC was forced to reduce its manufacturing of less-selling products, leading to a 30% reduction of APAC’s production. ATA: How about the market? Mr Soetrisno: Before answering the question, let me recall that APAC Group is an integrated company from spinning, weaving all the way to garment-making. In the case of producing garment, APAC Group has not experienced any negative impact. The market is still stable so far (by the first quarter of 2009). Unfortunately, it was a different case in the market of yarns and fabrics. About 70% of yarns and fabrics by APAC are made for the international market, and the remaining are sold domestically. United States and European countries are major exporting markets of APAC. As the demand in these two major areas showed declines, APAC started to engage in market diversification. At the same time, we found that markets in Latin of America, Asia and Africa were still in a good condition. Therefore, APAC transferred some of its market destinations from the two major markets to the three (emerging) regions. APAC has also decided to increase its share in the neighbouring region since there are bulk demands from the domestic market, which is the ASEAN in the viewpoint of APAC. In the ASEAN Free Trade Area (AFTA), selling products to Malaysia or Vietnam is as easy as to Papua. ATA: Any particular expansion plan in the future? Mr Soetrisno: I do strongly believe that the crisis will be over soon. If we could be in a-bit-hard situation in 2009, I am projecting that we'll be back to normal in 2010. During the crisis, APAC was applying a wait-and-see strategy. For 2010 forward, APAC will return penetrating the market at full speed. I am planning to purchase new facilities of dyeing and finishing. The new facilities will not expand the production capacity but serve for quality improvement. At present, APAC produces products for medium markets. Empowered by the new facilities, APAC will start producing high-end textiles to reach the premium market. ATA: Last question, do you have any advice for textile entrepreneurs on facing the future condition? Mr Soetrisno: Stayed focus. We commit to whatever competency we possess, which forms our own core competence. For example, APAC used to focus on denim production, and it was and still is one of APAC's core competence. Other additional production units were built to support the denim production, with the spinning and garment units being erected for providing support and sustaining further development of our denim production. Yarns sold in the market are those in excess from our spinning unit. In recent years, the company has diversified its product portfolio to woven garment products as well. Key statistics of APAC Annual sales: US$ 250,000,000 Key products: Textiles: Yarns, greige fabrics, denim Garment: Woven tops, dresses, denim pants Annual capacity: Textiles: Yarns: 482,000 bales Greige fabrics: 80,000,000 meters Denim: 60,000,000 yards Garment: 500,000 dozen Labor force: Textiles: 11,000 employees Garment: 2,000 employees Certification SAI Global: ISO 9001:2000 & 14001:2004 Market orientation: Textiles: 70% export, 30% domestic Garment: 100% export Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 74 - Company Bulletin Dow completes acquisition of Rohm and Haas The US-listed Dow Chemical Company announced that it had completed its acquisition of US-listed Rohm and Haas. The acquisition is a major step in Dow's strategy of growing its performance products and specialty portfolio to deliver more consistent earnings growth, Dow Chemical Company says. Following the acquisition, a US$14 billion diversified business portfolio, called Dow’s Advanced Materials division, will be created. The division is intended to achieve US$3 billion in additional value growth opportunities, as well as annual cost synergies of US$1.3 billion. Rohm and Haas is the key element in Dow’s new Advanced Materials division. Pierre Brondeau is president and CEO of this division, which includes coatings, building and construction, specialty materials, adhesives and functional polymers, and electronic materials. Rohm and Haas Company is a solutions supplier for the specialty materials industry, including textile and nonwoven binder technology. ITEMA Weaving and Lamiflex intensify cooperation ITEMA Weaving and Lamiflex spa entered into a strategic agreement, thus further formalizing and strengthening the collaboration between the two entities. ITEMA Weaving is a business unit of the International Technology & Machinery Group (ITEMA) dedicated to the production of weaving machines and related accessories. ITEMA Weaving is marketing and maintaining the brands Sulzer Textil, Somet and Vamatex. It recorded a turnover of 280 million euros in 2008. In the sector of technical composite materials, Lamiflex spa is active in the production of laminates for varied industrial environments; it has an annual turnover of 20 million euros. The agreement consolidates the already existing partnership with the prospect of the implementation of new products and processes and the mutual protection of intellectual property rights by means of common protection strategies, stated in a press release of ITEMA Weaving. In general, the agreement regulates the distribution of spare parts to the international market, which the two groups intend to exploit in a mutual way taking advantage of the existing commercial channels of the corresponding sales networks. It also rationalizes the use of the corresponding trademarks and the combined protection of certain patents, with eventual cross licensing. The mutual coordination allows the two groups to optimize their collaboration relationship, response times and procedures so as to address individual customers in a clear and more precise way, according to ITEMA Weaving. Rieter sees challenges this year 2009 is considered a challenging year by Rieter. The company expects declining demand in both (textile machinery and automotive) divisions, and hence capacity reductions and cost saving measures accordingly. In the medium term, Rieter believes that demand will increase at both divisions in line with global trends. The 2008 financial year for the Rieter Group bore clear traces of the consequences of the global economic downturn, the company said this March. Rieter Group sales for 2008 declined by 20% to 3142.5 million CHF. The operating result before special charges, interest and taxes totaled 22.4 million CHF. The group has two major divisions, namely textile machinery and automobiles. The trend of business at Rieter Textile Systems in 2008 was dominated by a cyclical downturn on the world market for textile machinery of an intensity and rapidity that had not been experienced by the industry for decades. Orders of 539.5 million CHF received by Textile Systems were 68% lower than in the record year of 2007 (1 703.1 million CHF); this was also due in part to postponements of orders. The weakening effectiveness of government incentive programs, a cyclical decline in fiber consumption in major sales markets such as the USA and more difficult financing conditions caused a rapid fall in customers' tendency to invest. Domestic demand in India and China was unable to offset this decline. Orders received by Rieter Textile Systems for staple fiber machinery since March 2008 have been substantially lower than in previous years, the company commented. Stoll opens showroom in New York Starting April 1, a new Stoll Fashion & Technology showroom is open in New York. Situated in Manhattan, New York, USA, the new 15,000-square feet showroom presents the opportunity to gain hands-on experience to the company's services. Stoll says that the new showroom marks Stoll Fashion & Technology's growing international status, which also includes locations in Reutlingen (Germany) and Shanghai (China), from which the company offers the possibility to pass on its creativity and know how to knitwear designers as well as major account customers operating modern Stoll knitting machines. This new facility is built around various themes such as inspirational archive, prototype sampling, sourcing, conference, or training. Stoll Fashion & Technology partners can find a platform to present their solutions for yarn sourcing, trends, knitwear collections and etc, the company adds. Caption: The new Stoll Fashion & Technology showroom in New York TenCate and Airbus continue partnership in composite materials Airbus signed the extension of its existing memorandum of understanding with TenCate, Stork Fokker AESP and The Netherlands Aerospace Group this April. Caption: The new Stoll Fashion & Technology showroom in New YorkAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 75 - Company Bulletin The entry of another six Dutch industrial companies and knowledge institutes to the Thermoplastic Affordable Primary Aircraft Structure (TAPAS) consortium is expected this year. The TAPAS consortium consists of companies and institutes active in the Dutch aviation industry that are working closely with Airbus in the field of material, processing and joining technology. This technology will be further developed specifically for future Airbus applications, including primary structure parts such as fuselage and wings. TenCate pioneered in the development of lightweight thermoplastic composite materials for the aviation industry and cooperated with Airbus in this field for years. Fibre-reinforced composites originate in an innovation process based on textile technology. Composite materials from TenCate consist of a compound of carbon or glass fibres that, with the addition of synthetic resins, are consolidated into plate material and marketed under the name TenCate Cetex, the company says. The characteristic of this material includes the fact that when heated in a molding press it becomes deformable (thermoplastic). The material can be industrially processed into moulded parts for wings, interiors and other parts. Additionally, TenCate makes a significant contribution to the efforts of Airbus to achieve eco-efficiency. Unifi sells joint venture in China Unifi Inc announced that it had closed on the sale and received US$9 million in proceeds related to its 50% ownership interest in Yihua Unifi Fibre Industry Co Ltd, the Company's joint venture with Sinopec Yizheng Chemical Fiber Co Ltd (YCFC). Unifi continues to service customers in Asia through Unifi Textiles Suzhou Co Ltd (UTSC), a wholly owned subsidiary based in Suzhou, China, that is dedicated to the development, sales and service of premium value-added (PVA) yarns. "Succeeding in today's global economic climate requires an even greater focus on supply chain management and the development of innovative specialty yarns, and UTSC provides Unifi with the flexibility and speed-to-market required to respond to the needs of our customers in Asia," said Roger Berrier, executive vice president of Unifi. The existing UTSC continues to expand the sales and promotion of the company’s specialty and PVA products (e.g. moisture-management Sorbtek technology and Repreve sustainable textiles), as well as looking for product commercialization of new and existing products, Unifi says. Caption: Unifi sold its JV in China and continues yarn production in its Suzhou subsidiary New movement BASF appoints new supply chain and EHS heads for Asia BASF announced the appointments of two functional unit heads for Asia Pacific. Effective April 1, Anthony Clymo is Head of Environment, Health and Safety (EHS), Asia Pacific, and Ralf Busche Head of Supply Chain Management Asia Pacific. Mr Clymo joined BASF as Production Manager of BASF Australia Ltd in 1994. He then became General Manager for Acrylic Monomers of BASF-Petronas Chemicals Sdn Bhd in Malaysia (2001-06). Prior to his new role, he was the Director of Site Coordination Asia Pacific based in Hong Kong since 2006. Mr Busche joined BASF AG in Germany in 1989. In 2007, he became Director Global Procurement & Logistics Maritime, Air & Terminal Services and Travel Management. New managing director appointed at BASF Vietnam BASF recently set up a wholly-owned foreign company, BASF Vietnam Co Ltd, as a platform to target growth industries in Vietnam including coatings, footwear, plastic and packaging and etc. Jirawat Thongbai, previously the Chief Representative of the Representative Office in Vietnam, has assumed the role of Managing Director for BASF Vietnam. "Vietnam is a key market for BASF in the ASEAN subregion, and its dynamic economy offers good growth opportunities. We therefore want to establish a stronger presence so that we are closer to our customers and better able to serve them," said Dr Tilman Krauch, President, Regional Functions & Country Management, Asia Pacific, BASF. Americhem appoints new manager in fiber technology Americhem Inc, a global provider of custom color and additive solutions for fibres and polymer-based products, recently added Michael Frisch as the company's new European fibres technology manager. Mr Frisch comes from Trevira to Americhem with an extensive background in customer service, fibre production and R&D. His previous concentration includes yarn developments, with a special focus on solution-dyed yarns and masterbatch processing. In this position, Mr Frisch acts as a liaison between Americhem Europe and its customers, lab, sales department and markets. He is the official technical face of the company within the fibres market segment.Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 76 - New Products Guide Andritz Kufferath presents high-tech nonwoven solutions Andritz Kufferath offers solutions for the different stages of manufacture - fibre web formation and bonding – both standardised and specially tailored in the manufacture of nonwovens. The Kufferath diagonal cover system is used in the formation of nonwoven materials, depending on the manufacturing process. The company's Technoflex forming fabrics made from synthetic materials are specially supplied for the production of nonwoven materials, which are manufactured in carding, air-laid, wet-laid as well as in spunbond / meltblown processes. Aku-Tec wire cloth made of high-grade steel is used amongst other things for thermal bonding applications. The product range in the field of nonwoven drying also includes Portaflex conveyor belts that are made of stainless steel. Enquiry code: 301 Drifire takes to market fire-resistant shirts Drifire, a US performance garment provider, introduced its ANSI-certified high-visual shirts, which include built-in flame resistance (FR), anti-static high-tech carbon fibers, and antibacterial qualities. The garments were made in conformance with the Drifire flame-resistant variant of a patented performance apparel blend, and which have just earned ANSI 107 Certification. This ANSI 107 Certification, developed by the International Safety Equipment Association (ISEA) and published by the American National Standards Institute Inc (ANSI), is an accepted standard for the design and performance of high visibility safety apparel. Wearers of ANSI 107 compliant apparel are much less likely to be injured or killed by moving vehicles or equipment than those who are wearing non-compliant apparel, according to Drifire. Today, regulatory bodies involved in a number of industries have adopted the ANSI 107-2004 standard. Enquiry code: 302 Latest version of webFolio launched by Gerber Gerber Technology, a supplier of automated CAD/CAM and PLM solutions for the sewn products and flexible materials industry, released webFolio 2.0, part of its Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) solution for the digital design, collaboration and creation of collections. Gerber Technology's webFolio 2.0 functions as a globally accessible solution enabling designers to organize and create content in a digital environment and effectively communicate information with internal associates, customers and vendors. This new product is easy to learn and operate allowing it to rapidly become an essential tool within a designer's tool kit, as it can be used as a stand-alone product or easily integrated with Gerber's webPDM product. This robust and intuitive format is the ideal solution for the creation, organization and management of apparel collections, the company says. Enquiry code: 303 Huntsman provides new repellent and soil release finishes Huntsman Textile Effects announced the launch of new repellent and soil release finishes for the textile industry that deliver maximum performance with a minimal environmental footprint, DuPont Capstone products, which will be marketed by Huntsman under the designation Oleophobol CP. Based on short-chain chemistry, these products provide a step-change reduction in trace impurities below the limit of detection, offering the same or better performance than their predecessors without compromising fluorine efficiency. The initial product offering from Huntsman includes a stain release (Oleophobol CP-R) and a synthetic oil and water repellent (Oleophobol CP-S). The stain release is suitable for cotton, synthetics and blends and eases the removal of both water- and oil-based stains during laundering. Enquiry code: 304 Innovative metering system supplied by Oerlikon Barmag A new Inject AC metering system for feeding liquids under pressure was unveiled by Oerlikon Barmag. It was developed to feed liquid low-viscosity additives under pressure. It is characterized by the following properties: •100% metering accuracy by using a booster pump and a metering pump. •Feed pressures of up to 300 bar are possible. •Viscosities from 100 mPas are possible. Additives with lower viscosities can also be processed depending on the application. •Very large throughput spectrum of between 0.03 and 70 liters/hour. •Heating by means of liquid heat carrier or using electrical heaters is possible. •Inject AC is supplied complete with control box as a "Plug and Play" system. •All electrical connections between control box and metering unit are pluggable. •Operation via a touch screen. •The control system is equipped with a Profibus interface. Caption: Oerlikon Barmag Inject AC (compact type) Enquiry code: 305 Circular knitting machine newly upgraded with 3,2 feeds An Italian circular knitting machinery producer, Orizio srl, introduced into itsAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 77 - New Products Guide jersey range the John-D machine with 3,2 feeds alongside the 3,0. The John-D model is a large-volume production machine that has all of the qualities and the characteristics of reliability and versatility recognized to the Orizio Jersey machines. This innovation allows the user to operate on a productive machine, due to the high speed and to the high number of feeds, the company describes. The John-D is available equipped with open width frame for the production of Lycra / elastane fabrics with viscose and acetate yarns. The completion of the striper machines range the JB4-1E and JB3E machine models have 1,6 feeds per diametrical inch with four colours and 2,4 feeds per diametrical inch with three colours respectively. Final product quality is ensured with JB4-1E and JB3E, Orizio says. According to Orizio, the JB4-1E machine suits for big volume production and it is an evolution of the 1,4 feeds per diametrical inch machine. It maintains the same fabric characteristics giving the opportunity to knit at four colours per feeders with lycra. Caption: The Orizio John-D machine (above) and the JB3E with three-colour striper Enquiry code: 306 Advanced harness frames offered Steel Heddle is an accessories supplier of high-performance frames with high precision and accurate dimensions, according to GTP Global Textile Partner. Steel Heddle airjet and rapier frames are well-known for their distinctive features including the patent-pending glued heddle rod and patented flexible corner connection system (R-flex) for less frame breakage, as well as the unique and patented integrated heddle damper for less heddle vibration. The company says that these features allow highest weaving speeds of on narrow widths (over 1200 rpm) as well as the best weaving performance on wide widths, without center support, up to 400 cm. Caption: Steel Heddle harness frame Enquiry code: 307 a fast insight into their operation and manage either proactively or react fast finally resulting in improving profitability, according to Uster. W.Baelz & Sohn W2 B62 W.Baelz & Sohn will highlight such exhibits as control valves for hot oil, hot water and steam, ejector and heat recovery system / energy saving, cost reduction, system optimization and pollution reduction. As a component maker for control valves and controllers being having served the Asian market for more than 30 years, Baelz is continuing efforts to inform the market about the importance to use original goods. Baelz will stress on the importance of the original "made in Germany" quality. Baelz provides cast-in stainless steel seat, the long-lasting packing-free stem seal, premium bellows, total quality control, and qualified technical sales support and international service, the company says. Wuxi Dongbao W3 B79 Headquartered in China, Wuxi Dongbao Machinery Manufacturing Co Ltd, specializing in the manufacture of printing and dyeing machinery, will present a variety of products, including high-temperature, high-pressure dyeing machines; high-temperature, overflow jet dyeing machines; fast package drying machine; sample dyeing apparatus and etc. Xiamen Rapid Precision Machinery W3 R01 On display will be a new Smart Dyer, which is a direct heat-conduct laboratory dyeing machine manufactured by Xiamen Rapid Precision Machinery (formerly Labortex/Taiwan). The advanced heat-conduct design offers not only advantages of a Glycerin type dyeing machine, but also provides features of an infrared type dyeing machine. The new design provides improvements on the two conventional designs, the company mentions. Its specially designed rotary system allows users to achieve even and crease-mark-free dyeing results, even at a low liquor ratio of 1:6. Users can easily add chemicals either in powder or liquid form during running of dyeing process by the patented "One Touch" injection device. Moreover, dyeing reproducibility is ensured as the chemical addition process simulates features of the bulk dyeing process. Caption: Smart Dyer of Xiamen Rapid Precision MachineryAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 78Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 79 - Coming Events Calendar Date Event Location Organizer Tel/ Fax/ Email/ Website 2009 Jun 6-10 ITM 2009 International Textile Machinery Exhibition Istanbul / Turkey Teknik Fuarcilik (90) 212 592 5992 / (90) 212 599 3882 info@teknikfuarcilik.com / info@itm2009.com / www.itm2009.com 12-15 ShanghaiTex 2009 — The 14th International Exhibition on Textile Industry Shanghai / China Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd (852) 2811 8897 / (852) 2516 5024 publicity@adsale.com.hk / http://shanghaitexonline.com 16-18 Techtextil Frankfurt Frankfurt am Main / Germany Messe Frankfurt (49) 69 7575 6553 / (49) 69 7575 9655 3 Katrin.Mueller@Messefrankfurt.com / http://techtextil.messefrankfurt.com 16-19 Pitti Immagine Uomo 2009 Florence / Italy Pitti Immagine pr.visitatori@pittimmagine.com / www.pittimmagine.com July 6-9 Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring / Summer 2010 Hong Kong / China Hong Kong Trade Development Council (852) 2240 4323 / (852) 2824 0026 exhibitions@tdc.org.hk / www.hkfashionweekss.com 15-17 National Garment Fair 2009 Mumbai / India Clothing Manufacturer's Association of India (91) 22 2353 8245 / (91) 22 2351 5908 cmai@vsnl.com, info@cmai.in / www.cmai.in 16-19 10th Textech Bangladesh 2009 International Expo Dhaka / Bangladesh CEMS (880) 2 8812713 / (880) 2 989 4573 contact@textechonline.org, cems.bd@cemsonline.com / www.textechonline.org 20-22 Spin Expo New York New York / USA Well Link Consultants Ltd (852) 2824 8581 / (852) 2824 8268 steven@spinexpo.com (Mr Steven Chen) / www.spinexpo.com Sep 2-4 Preview in Seoul: Seoul International Textile Fair Seoul / Korea Korea Federation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI), Seoul Metropolitan Government & Daegu Metropolitan City (82) 2 528 4052 / (82) 2 528 4069 kofoti@kofoti.or.kr / www.kofoti.or.kr 8-10 Spin Expo Shanghai Shanghai / China Well Link Consultants Ltd (852) 2824 8581 / (852) 2824 8268 steven@spinexpo.com (Mr Steven Chen) / www.spinexpo.com 9-11 The 10th China (Qingdao) International Textile Machinery Fair (QITMF) Qingdao / China Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd (852) 2811 8897 / (852) 2516 5024 publicity@adsale.com.hk / www.2456.com/qdtex 15-18 Première Vision Paris Paris / France Première Vision S.A. (852) 2526 6715 / (852) 3013 9554 pvhkgd@pacific.net.hk, info@premierevision.fr / www.premierevision.fr Oct 10-12 Techtextil India 2009 Mumbai / India Messe Frankfurt (91) 22 2202 7609 / (91) 22 2202 7243 anchal.banerjee@india.messefrankfurt.com / www.messefrankfurt.com 21-24 Indonesia Textile & Apparel Affair-ITAF 2009 Jakarta / Indonesia Antheus Indonesia (62) 21 530 3111 / (62) 21 530 3113 www.antheus.co.id Nov 18-20 Yiwu H&G 2009 Yiwu / China Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd (852) 2516 3363 / (852) 2516 5024 publicity@adsale.com.hk / www.2456.com/yiwu * ATA Journal will be distributed at booth / media stand * These events are accurate to the best of our knowledge and are subject to change without prior notice. Event organizers are welcome to email information of their coming events to The Editor, ATA Journal cta.ata.edit@adsale.com.hkAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 80Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 81Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2009 - Page - 82
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CONTENTS. JUN / JUL 2009 VOL. 20 NO.3 ■ ISSN 1015-8138 Feature Story 24 Global garment retailers may face feeble market until 2010 Retailers and luxury houses recorded sharp decreases in sales following the world economic downturn, but market research agency was still able to pinpoint bright spots in the consumer market in the West Market Focus 28 Lingerie manufacturing prowess and purchasing power grow in Asia Infirm sales in western lingerie markets are partially offset by growing markets in Asia, which is now more than a global production house Machinery Technology 32 ShanghaiTex 2009 sets textile business in motion This June, ShanghaiTex 2009 will again serve as an important platform for textile machinery builders and users to obtain latest market updates and business opportunities Material Technology 48 Versatile natural fibers fulfill varied market needs Chemical & Auxiliaries 52 Greener offerings embraced in dye and chemical market Dye makers around the world are conducting research into novel dyes that can improve eco-credentials Environmental Watch 20 Recycling fabrics gaining popularity Nonwovens / Specialty Textiles 56 Latest material advances showcased at ISPO Munich China Focus 60 Global textile trade affected by new regulations 64 Dalian rises as a garment city in North China Retail Scene 66 Stage-inspired lingerie previewed in Paris and HK Corporate Profile 72 Crisis management of a leading Indonesian denim maker President of PT APAC Inti Corpora (APAC), a large denim manufacturer in Indonesia, shares his views on the currently changing markets Regular columns 8 Editor's note 10 Industry news 70 Show watcher 74 Company bulletin 76 New product guide 79 Coming events calendar 80 Advertisers' index Cover Advertisement Enquiry code: 101 BASF BASF is the world's leading chemical company. BASF has developed the MOOO>™ brand for polypropylene fibers that incorporate innovative BASF technology. The colorless fiber can be dyed in fabric form by standard processes with disperse dyes. It increases production flexibility and allows vibrant color choices to meet fast-moving market trends. Hong Kong BASF East Asia Regional Headquarters Ltd. 45/F, Jardine House, 1 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong Email: eve-hk@basf.com Website: www.mooov.basf.com Register now as a member of to enjoy the privileged services awaiting you. ■ Daily Industry News ■ Feature Articles ■ Hot Topics ■ Corporate Interviews ■ Coverage on Business & Technical Conferences, and Exhibitions ■ Virtual Exhibitions ■ Business Information, Business Directory, and many more
Editor's Note JUN / JUL 2009 The 14th International Exhibition on Textile Industry (ShanghaiTex 2009) will soon kick off in Shanghai on June 12-15, serving as the platform of textile trade between international textile machinery builders and buyers from around the world, particularly those from Asian countries and China. This edition of ATA Journal carries this year's ShanghaiTex show preview, introducing a vast number of machine technologies offered by diverse suppliers. In addition to western machinery builders, a number of Chinese suppliers have also geared up to present themselves as competitive players in Asia. Despite the economic challenges this year, the Chinese textile and garment industry remains dynamic and players are upgrading themselves in order to move ahead. Meanwhile, the State Council of China recently announced a new plan to adjust and strengthen the textile and garment industry. Under the plan, sizable textile enterprises will achieve an industrial added value of RMB1,200 billion by 2011; and a total export value of US$240 billion, with an annual growth rate of 8%. The goals will be attained with advanced technology, among other things, presenting opportunities to textile machine suppliers. "Feature Story" in this edition reports on the latest situations in the retail scene. International luxury brands and garment stores are facing quieter time while other retailers have increased in popularity among consumers who are more careful about what they spend on. Intimate wear is the theme of "Market Focus". Innovative bonding technologies are one of the global trends that are welcomed and even expected by consumers. Asian markets' momentum continues to give hopes to international lingerie providers. Additionally, latest designs showcased at the Paris lingerie exhibition early this year are presented in "Retail Scene". Natural fibres are covered in "Material Technology". "Chemicals and Auxiliaries" discusses latest developments among dye and chemical developers; many of them incorporate the concept of sustainability into their products. ATA JOURNAL for Asia on Textile & Apparel is published by Adsale Publishing Limited (a member of the Adsale Group) Address: 6th Floor, 321 Java Road, North Point, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2811 8897 Fax: (852) 2516 5119 Email: cta.ata@adsale.com.hk Web-site(Adsale Group): www.adsale.com.hk Adsale Industry Portal: www.2456.com/ata General Manager: Annie Chu Senior Executive Editor: Naomi Lee Associate Editor: Michelle Phong China Editor: Joany Hao Assistant Editor (China): Amy Xiao Editorial Emails cta.ata.edit@adsale.com.hk cta.ata@sz.adsale.com.hk Contributors Adrian Wilson (Europe) Ajay Sinha (India, Pakistan & Sri Lanka) Asep Setiaharja (S E Asia) Baari Inggi (S E Asia) Gail Taylor (Hong Kong) Ian Holme (Europe) Lucia Carpio (Europe) Manik Mehta (US & Europe) Ngo Tuan (Vietnam) Sanjay Gupta (India) Marketing and Advertising Janet Tong Advertising Sales Offices See page 80 Production Sonia Lai Circulation Circulation Department Publication Frequency 6 times in 2009 Distribution ATA JOURNAL is distributed free to individuals who meet the publisher's registered terms of control. Fill in the reader's form to apply for qualified readership. Subscription Rates (annual incl postage) Hong Kong: HK$455 Asia (surface mail): US$75 All Other Regions (surface mail): US$85 Cover Price: HK$76 / US$13 / US$15 Copyright © 2009 All rights reserved. Reproduction in any form without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publisher is not responsible for statements or opinions expressed herein nor do such statements necessarily express the views of the publisher unless stated as such. Printing Elite Printing (Hong Kong) Co., Ltd.
Industry News East Asia China Export tax rebates for textile and garment exports rise to 16% The State Administration of Taxation of China raised the export tax rebates of commodities to 16% in the fields of textiles, garment, light industries, electronic information, iron and steel, colored metals, petrochemistry and etc. Starting on April 1, the new policy affects 3802 taxable items and is executed based on the dates marked by the Customs Office on export-related documents. Exports drops in first two months this year Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of China found that the Chinese textile industry achieved a profit of RMB 12.4 billion in January and February, down 9.5%. Chinese exports of yarns and textile products reached US$7.29 billion (-20.6%) in the first two months of this year, while those of garments and accessories recorded US$14.62 billion (-11%). Textile machinery sales fall The Chinese customs office announced that textile machinery imports by China reached US$271 million in the first two months of 2009, down 62.42% from the same period of last year, whilst the Chinese exports of textile machinery were worth US$133 million (-47.78%). Between this January and February, the Chinese textile machinery sector recorded a finished production value of RMB6.613 billion (at nominal price level), representing a 16.62% decline from the same period of last year. Value of the goods sold was RMB6.937 billion (-10.65%), whereas profits reached RMB71.1 million (-77.38%). In the sector, about 296 enterprises reported making a total loss of RMB247 million. The authorities also announced that the Chinese textile machinery sector registered 1.07% in a rate of profits divided by total production value (產值利潤率). RMB cross-border trade settlement pilot project announced China's State Council, or Cabinet, announced a pilot program to allow exporters and importers in five cities to settle cross-border trade deals in renminbi (RMB). Except Shanghai is in East China, other four cities are situated in Guangdong province: Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Zhuhai and Dongguan. This April, the Bank of China and the Bank of Communications announced their branches in these cities were ready for the trial operations. The trial operations for cross-border RMB settlement covers trade in steel, chemicals, mechanical equipment and textiles. South East Asia Vietnam Targeting textile and garment exports at US$10 billion in 2009 In a meeting between Vietnamese authorities and Vietnam Textile and Apparel Group (Vinatex), Prime Minister (PM) Nguyen Tan Dung assigned the group to lead the industry in order to attain an annual exports turnover of US$10-10.5 billion this year. The PM expected the country to export textile and garment products worth US$25 billion by 2020. A report of the Minister of Industry and Trade (MOIT) showed that in January this year, the textile andment exports turnover fetched US$550 million, estimating that the turnover of the first two months could be US$1.15 billion, down 12% from the same period last year. In addition, MOIT announced that the textile, garment and footwear industry witnessed a strong decline in exports turnover in the first quarter 2009, following the outbreak of the global economic crisis. The textile and garment industry fetched US$1.903 billion during the period, representing a year-on-year decline of 0.1%. First polyester fibre plant granted investment license Hai Phong city people's committee granted an investment license for PetroVietnam-Vinatex Dinh Vu Synthetic Fiber and Petrochemical Joint Stock Company to implemente its project on building a plant with a daily capacity of 500 tons of fiber in Dinh Vu industrial zone, Hai Phong. Invested with VND5,457 billion or US$313.6 million by PetroVietnam and the Vinatex, with each contributing 50%, this will be the first polyester fiber plant of the country where most fiber and yarn for local textile production are currently imported. According to the investment license, the plant will operate within 48 years and set to start official operation in December 2010, one year earlier than its initial plan set in March 2008. In 2008, Vietnam's textile and garment exports turnover reached US$ 9.1 billion and stood in top 10 exporter of the world, but it still relies heavily on the imported sources of fiber and yarn. The plant has a planned capacity of 500 tons fibers per day. Once commencing its operation, it is expected to meet 40% of total fiber demand of Vietnam. Government supports textile and garment sector Vietnamese government approved a list of solutions supporting the local textile and garment industry in a bid to overcome the present hard situation in exports and production. The government decided to reduce the value added tax (VAT) of imported cotton to 5% from 10%, and to lengthen the expiration time of VAT payment with regard to the imported equipments and out-sourcing contracts.
Industry News Country Focus: China, Taiwan Province Taiwan weighs heavily on R&D to outperform in Asia by Staff Reporters Taiwan's textile sector has developed as a vertically integrated supply chain, with the production of man-made fibers, yarn spinning, weaving and knitting, dyeing and finishing, as well as apparel and accessories. Apart from using materials derived from petrochemicals, the region also imports raw cotton yarns and man-made staple yarns, according to the Taiwan Textile Federation (TTF). The textile industry of Taiwan is highly export-oriented. The export value of textile and apparel products accounts for over 80% of total textile and apparel production in recent years. Data from the Taiwanese Customs office showed that in 2008, the Taiwanese textile trade registered a total export value of US$10.903 billion, down 6% from the previous year; a total import value of US$2.702 billion (+2%); and a trade surplus of US$8.201 billion (-8%). Except miscellaneous textiles that witnessed a 3% growth last year, major textile and apparel products exported by Taiwan namely fibers, yarns, fabrics, and garment & accessories recorded declines by 18%, 13%, 2% and 7% respectively compared to the previous year. In 2008, imports of fibers and yarns dropped by 2% and 6% respectively last year, but imports of fabrics, garment & accessories, and miscellaneous textiles reported growths of 8%, 4% and 3% respectively. Geographically, China is the largest export destination for Taiwan, followed by Hong Kong, Vietnam, USA and the EU. Half of Taiwanese exports in this category to USA were garment and accessories, and the rest were mainly fabrics. Fabrics were the primary textile goods exported by Taiwan, representing about 70% of total textile and garment exports to Hong Kong and Vietnam, and 65% and 34% of those to China and the EU respectively. Taiwan witnessed a decline trend in its textile and garment exports in the last four months of 2008, down 19% from the same period of the previous year. The decline went steeper last December, following the global economic downturn, the TTF says. Anticipating a gloomy economic outlook at home and abroad in 2009, the administration in Taiwan launched measures to stimulate its economy early this year, including an expansion of public investment (and thus domestic demand). Innovation offsets insufficient natural resources Taiwanese textile and garment players continue focusing on innovation, research and development, and design services, in addition to strengthening their capabilities as original design manufacturers (ODMs) and original brand manufacturers (OBMs). Vigilant of limitations in the domestic environment (e.g. insufficient natural resources for textile production) and vigorous international competition, they have shifted the focus to higher value textile and garment products for years. The TTF explains that Taiwanese textile developers have earned their reputation in the global supply chain with engineered man-made fibers that deliver value-added functionality, featuring improved performance, e.g. antibacterial textiles for general and medical uses, electromagnetic shielding textiles, moisture transferring and quick drying textiles, as well as special textiles with wrinkle-free, UV-protective, antistatic, water- and/or oil-repellent, and flame resistant properties. Eco-friendliness is also a buzzword for them, who have invested heavily in the development of eco-friendly textile products using organic fiber sources and recycled materials, for instance. Some early developers in this respect include Far Eastern Textile Ltd, Formosa Taffeta, Chi Heir Group, Everest Textile and Tai Yuen Textile. These enterprises have improved the eco-efficiency in terms of the manufacturing process and/or fiber source with the assistance of the Institute for Marketecology (IMO), Bluesign Technologies, Control Union Certifications and etc, the TTF explains. Items Value (US$ million) Percentage of total % change from 2007 Volume (‘000 tons) Percentage of total Unit price (US$/kg) % change from 2007 Fibers 968 9 -18 519.2 -21 1.87 4 Yarns 1970 18 -13 767.2 -20 2.57 10 Fabrics 6625 61 -2 1063.1 -11 6.23 10 Garment & accessories 971 9 -7 55 -16 17.64 11 Miscellaneous textiles 369 3 3 96.5 -7 3.83 11 Total 10903 100 -6 2501 -16 4.36 12 Textile and garment exports from Taiwan in 2008 (Source: TTF) Items Value (US$ million) Percentage of total % change from 2007 Volume (‘000 tons) Percentage of total Unit price (US$/kg) % change from 2007 Woven fabrics 2494 38 -4 402.4 -11 6.2 8 Knitted fabrics 1616 24 -2 239.5 -11 6.75 10 Specialty fabrics 2515 38 0.1 421.2 -11 5.97 13 Total 6625 100 -2 1063.1 -11 6.23 10 Breakdown of fabric exports from Taiwan in 2008 (Source: TTF) Key exporting markets by rank Value (US$ million) Percentage of total % change from 2007 China 2112 19 -6 Hong Kong 1750 16 -15 Vietnam 1261 12 4 USA 1146 11 -12 EU 592 5 8 Total of 5 key markets 68.61 63 -7 Major exporting markets of Taiwanese textile and garment sector in 2008 (Source: TTF)
Industry News As more textile and garment factories closed down, the Vietnamese government agreed to provide support to the industry in a ratio of VND40 per US$1 exports value (exchange rate: US$1 = VND17,400). In other words, exports value of US$1 million would be given support of VND 40 million from the government. This aimed to help existing enterprises retain their operations. The government also assigned the State Bank to lend Vinatex with US$15 million to import cotton for reservation in one year with a preferential rate. Uniqlo to buy more Vietnamese garment The Association of Garment Textile Embroidery and Knitting (AGTEK) of Ho Chi Minh City reported that Uniqlo under Fast Retailing in Japan planned to visit Vietnam and work with 50 good garment makers in Ho Chi Minh City in recent months in a bid to seek for more suppliers. The visit aimed to exploit the Vietnam-Japan Economic Partnership Agreement that has generated various favorable conditions for Vietnamese textile and garment exports to Japan. According to the AGTEK, Japanese traders are shifting partially their orders to Vietnam from China due to the presence of preferential taxation in importing the textile and garment from Vietnam. The MOIT said that the textile and garment exports turnover to the US and EU suffered declines while those to Japan kept good growths in the first two months 2009. In 2008, the exports turnover to Japan reached US$820 million, representing a year-on-year rise of 16%. JASTA seeking co-operation with Vitas This February, a delegation of the Japan Association of Specialists in Textiles and Apparel (JASTA) visited Hanoi and worked with the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (Vitas) for the discussion of a joint agreement in developing the Vietnam-Japan Economic Partnership Agreement (VJEPA). The VJEPA, effective beginning 2009, is favorable to Vietnamese textile and garment exporters when exporting to Japan, especially the zero export tax on textile and garment products from Vietnam to Japan. Japan is the third largest exporting market of Vietnam-made textile and garment products, worth about US$800 million in 2008, after the US and EU. At the meeting, president of Vitas, Le Quoc An, proposed the Japanese textile and garment enterprises to develop the textile and garment materials in Vietnam. His proposal included two major propositions: (i) JASTA will support its Japanese enterprises to invest into textile factories in Vietnam, especially the products of fibre, yarn, fabric and other materials; (ii) the Japanese trading companies will bring more materials to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. The Vietnamese side also requested Japanese partners to consider supporting the Vietnamese industry in the areas of human resources and fashion design.
Industry News Vintex Mart to be equitized The Vietnamese government approved to take to the stock exchange Vinatex Fashion Trading Company (Vinatex Mart) - one of the biggest fashion traders under the Vinatex in the country. The company explained the equitization would provide favorable conditions for it to increase the product offerings made domestically and expand its existing large network nationwide. The Vinatex Mart is currently a state-owned company under the Vinatex group. The equitization is included in a master plan laid down by the Vinatex. Indonesia Domestic demand booms with general election Vice Chairman of API Jabar (Indonesian Textile Association of West Java), Ade Sudradjat, said that the slowdown of textile and clothing exports can be offset by increase of domestic sales due to the participation of more political parties and change of general election. He said that companies received orders from political parties participating in the general election 2009 worth at least Rp1.2 trillion this year. The value of the order for the general election needs is likely to increase up to Rp5 trillion, Benny Soetrisno, Chairman of the Indonesian Textile Association predicted. Jackets, T-shirts, hats, flags and banners are intensely demanded by political parties and individual candidate of the parliament in Indonesia. A number of fabric traders in Surabaya, East Java, reported sales rises up to 70% since the end of 2008, particularly for imported fabrics. Mr Ade continued saying that textile and clothing industries will receive more orders at home by the emergence of presidential instruction No. 2/2009 regarding the increase of locally made product (P3DN). Government allocates funding for restructuring program The Industry Ministry in Indonesia opened the registration for textile machinery restructuring program period 2009 by allocating IDR240 billion. Based on the ministry observation, at least 100 companies would be interested to join the program. Anshari Bukhari, General Director of various industry, textile and machinery (ILMTA) at the Industry Ministry said that the priority of the program is for companies whose existing machines are over 20 years old and they have plans to purchase new machines in the period between July 1, 2008 and November 2009. "Given the global ecoomic crisis, this is the right momentum for long-term investment," he said. The mechanism of the program in two schemes is similar to those in previous years. The first scheme (with a funding of Rp213 billion) assists large-scale textile enterprises in the form of paying 10% of the total purchase of new machines. The rest of the funding amounted Rp27 billion in the second scheme will subsidise the interest loan of the industry's small and mid-size enterprises (SMEs). If locally made equipment is purchased, the government will subsidise 15% from the total purchasing, no more than Rp5 billion for each company. Chairman of the Indonesian Textile Association, Benny Soetrisno, said that the textile restructuring program is crucial to local enterprise so that they are well prepared when the external demand picks up after the global financial crisis is over. Three national companies planned to invest in machinery to boost production. South Pacific Viscose (SPV) in Purwakarta, West Java, will invest US$100 billion this year and Sri Rejeki Isman (Sritex) in Solo Central Java plans to invest US$25 million in machinery. APAC Inti is also interested in purchasing new textile machinery. A further report on APAC Inti is covered in Corporate Profile column on page 72. Total number of workers rises despite lay-offs By this February, about 5,000 workers were laid off and 18,000 had to take temporary holidays, according to Vice Chairman of the Indonesian Textile Association, Ade Sudradjat. Meanwhile, about 50,000 workers entered into the industry in 2008 as a consequence of investment amounted Rp4 trillion. Thus, the total number of workers working in the Indonesian textile and clothing industry increased. Chairman of Indonesian Entrepreneur Association of West Java (Apindo) Jabar, Dedi Wijaya, added that although textile exports declined, the local market with a population of more than 280 million people represents a large potential. Mr Ade explained that the decline in orders started to happen in October 2008, especially for SMEs, which are featured with low efficiency, limited market access and poor management. Larger companies were able to leverage on such advantages as good quality product, competitive price and on-time delivery to keep their businesses going. Exports forecast to drop this year Speaking at a seminar relating to the Indonesia Japan Economic Partnership Agreement (IJEPA), Industry Minister, Fahmi Idris, said that textile and clothing exports this year is likely to drop due to the decrease of international demand. "We have no idea about the figure this year, but after a number of discussions with exporters, it is estimated that the figure will be above US$8 billion this year," he said. Textile and clothing exports reached US$10.83 billion in 2008. He said that the Indonesian textile and clothing industry is facing challenges such as low external demand, limited working capital, low efficiency due to aged machinery, and unavoidable labour lay-offs. Advisor of the Indonesian Textile Association, Benny Benyamin, said that the local industry needs to explore alternative market destinations in the home country to offset overseas export declines.
Industry News South Asia India Mixed feelings towards global recession The global economic recession has affected Asian garment exporters, and Indian garment exporters pointed to a looming crisis. Managing Director of Gokaldas Exports, Rajan Hinduja said:"The global recession has hit orders and price realisation. Our quarterly turnover is down from Rs 300 crore to Rs 250 crore. We might manage but others cannot. Orders are going to Vietnam and Bangladesh, which have lower labour costs." Other manufacturers point to a more complex situation. They say that orders are down by 15% over the last four or five months, and could fall further as the recession deepens in the US. But A-grade vendors, categorised on the basis of manufacturing practices rather than pricing, will grab a greater share of the reduced order flow. At present, these units account for 30%-40% of exports, and 25% of the total number of apparel export units. The rest, particularly small-scale units, may be pushed to the wall. Already hit by underutilisation of capacity, these small units may face threat of closure. Nonetheless, Bangalore, one of India's major apparel export centres, reported remaining intact so far. According to officials in the state textiles and handlooms department in India, the order booking in the area looks comfortable at least till this April, if not July. Says Nirmala Rani, Deputy General Manager (HR), in Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd, which is a Rs 1,500-crore turnover company: "We are able to cope with the situation. There was a slowdown in work between July and September last year, but after December the situation seems to have improved." Buyers' low prices impact Indian apparel exporters Indian apparel exporters working with large international retailers found business to have shrunk 10%-12% in recent months. Exporters like Gokaldas Exports and Kaytee Corporation are busy finding ways to beat the recession. Gokaldas, which works with large global retailers like Gap, Nike, JC Penney and Wal-Mart, is staring at a 10%-20% dip in exports as its clients have severely cut down their sourcing in India. Kaytee's exports are down 10%-12% after one of its largest clients, Steve & Barry, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in the US. During the months early this year, apparel companies in India pruned cost, increased efficiency and productivity, and managed to trim flab across the cost chain. On other hand, some buyers are turning their attention to countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam so that they manage to sell their end apparel products at low margins.
Industry News Collaboration with brands S Kumars Nationwide (SKNL), an Indian textile and apparel firm, was close to forming a joint venture (JV) with global fashion brand DKNY, in order to ensure more than half of its revenue from the JV, sources said this March. A person close to the development said that the two firms were in final stages of discussion. The broad contours of the deal, he said, suggest that SKNL may pick up the majority stake in the JV, which may exclusively procure textiles worth over US$250 million. The JV may have the right to appoint all future franchisees of DKNY, a brand owned by the French luxury corporation Louis Vuitton. The financial contribution of the parties would be linked to their equity ownership. When asked, a senior SKNL official neither denied nor confirmed the development citing confidentiality. If the deal goes through, SKNL may be the sole supplier to over 70 DKNY stores globally, including 20 in China, two in Canada and four in Dubai, said the sources. The JV could also lead to the entry of DKNY stores in India. Currently, DKNY does not have significant presence in the Indian sub-continent. The JV would mean that it can penetrate in South East Asia, especially in India and neighbouring counties. This February, SKNL announced through its fashion retail arm, Brand House, the joint venture with Italy's leading apparel brand, Oviesse. Brand House manages exclusive stores of four brands: Reid & Taylor, Stephens Brothers, Belmonte, and Carmichael House. Middle East market is targeted Textile and apparel major, the Raymond Group, is optimistic with the Middle East and SAARC markets and plans to expand its network in these regions. SAARC stands for the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation. "We plan to expand our footprint internationally with a special focus on the Middle East. Our plan is to increase our‘The Raymond Shop’network in the Middle East/SAARC from the present 35 to 50 by 2012," said Gautam Hari Singhania, Chairman and Managing Director of the Raymond Group. He commented that 24 out of the existing 35 overseas stores are located in the Middle East, "indicating the region's importance in our scheme of things." Presently, the Middle East/SAARC markets contribute 37% to the total international business of the Raymond Group, which plans to push upward the rate to 45% in the future. Several other key Indian textile players have also tried to look for new markets, where exports could beat the meltdown blues. Pakistan Industry associations propose ideas Leading textile-related export associations of Pakistan asked the Ministry of Textile and Federal Board of Revenue (FBR) to abolish the customs duty on the import of textile/weaving and stitching machinery etc, among other requests including massive changes in customs tariff and revision of the Temporary Importation Scheme. Some export associations also proposed revamping of licensing of freight forwarders rules to monitor their activities to avoid misuse. Other suggestions included changes in procedures for "analysis certificates" requirements; issuance of bank guarantees/indemnity bonds; relaxation of conditions in the Temporary Importation Scheme and proper adoption of the harmonised customs tariff schedules. The Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA) proposed to the government reduction of customs duty under SRO.575(I)/2006 from 5% to zero on the import of textile machinery for spinning, weaving, processing, stitching and knitting. It also suggested 5% concessionary duty on the import of spare parts of the textile industry, as well as duty reduction from 20% to 10% on import of sodium hydroxide caustic soda in the coming budget. The Pakistan Readymade Garments Manufacturers and the Exporters Association (PRGMEA) emphasized the importance of zero customs duty on the temporary imports of buttons, denim and other items. It also proposed new procedures for release of bank guarantee, indemnity bonds along with post dated cheques under the Temporary Importation Scheme (SRO.1065(I)/2005) and etc. Concessionary rate of 5% duty on the import of 100% polyester filament yarn, poly/viscous yarn, acrylic yarn and mixed yarn was proposed by the Pakistan Silk and Rayon Mills Association. Keeping ties with USA Founder Chairman of US-Pakistan Business Council and former President of FPCCI, Iftikhar Ali Malik appreciated the role of business counterparts in the United States for lobbying with the Washington administration and convincing to cut tariff on Pakistan textiles. The US-Pakistan Business Council helped encourage and facilitate the co-operation in trade investment to promote trade between Pakistan and USA. Mr Malik considered that stronger economic ties with Pakistan would help advance America's geopolitical goals in South Asia. Economically stronger Pakistan would be in the best interest of the USA and the whole world also due to its strategic position, he remarked. Shipments held up The Pakistan's textile industry suffered a loss of Rs 960 million in recent months due to the delay in clearance of shipments in Russia and other countries. Reliable sources told that 200 containers, carrying textile consignments from Pakistan, were stranded in Russia, European Union (EU) countries and America. Each container is carrying textile goods worth approximately US$30,000. The containers were stranded in the EU countries and America due to the refusal of companies to offload the Pakistani textile products under the economic recession. For the clearance of shipments held up in
Industry News Russia, an exporter told: "Up till now, we have paid Rs 960 million as demurrage to Russia." He said: "But we are hopeful that our containers stranded in Russia would be released soon because the value of the Russian ruble appreciated by 20%. Earlier, Russian ruble had depreciated by 40% against the US dollar." Power issue discussed The textile sector in Pakistan, in a joint meeting of its associations, decided to constitute a joint working committee that would effectively address prevailing problems of the textile industry, especially power load shedding. Acting Chairman, Javaid Shafiq Siddiqi from the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), chaired the meeting. Attendees included representatives from the Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA), the Pakistan Cotton Power Looms Association (PCPLA), the All Pakistan Textiles Sizing Industries Association (APSIA), and the Council of Loom Owners Faisalabad, as well as some from related segments including hosiery. The participants decided to urge the government to take immediate steps necessary for the survival of the industry, including rationalisation and reduction of electricity tariffs; immediate withdrawal of all pending determinations of National Electric Power Regulatory Authority (NEPRA) for all distribution companies (DISCOs) for the textile industry, in addition to the control of power load shedding. The textile production capacity of various sub-sectors in the country dropped 20%-30% as a result of the global economic downturn, according to industry estimates. Sri Lanka Green firm appreciated by Europe The impressive environmentally friendly indicators achieved by the Brandix Eco Centre resulted in the Brandix Group being adjudged the National Winner for Sri Lanka, and being named one of three nominees for the Energy Globe World Award in the air category at the award presentation in Prague, Czech Republic, as the opening event of the European Environmental Ministers Meeting in Prague this April. The event was viewed by three billion television audiences globally. "This recognition in front of a truly global audience is as important for Sri Lanka as it is for Brandix," said Ashroff Omar, CEO of the Brandix Group. "It shows that despite of tough world economic conditions and domestic conflicts, there are manufacturers in Sri Lanka who remain committed to ideals and standards," he said. The Brandix Green Factory, which is the highest-rated platinum-Certified Green apparel manufacturing plant in the world under the Leadership in Energy and Environment Design (LEED) systems, reduced carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions to the atmosphere by 80%, Sulfur Dioxide (SO2) emissions by 71% and Nitrogen Oxides (NO2) by 92%. It achieved an energy saving of 46%, reduced potable water use by 70% and also documented that almost all of the site-generated solid waste is recycled. Export may further drop Apparel exporters of Sri Lanka expected a deeper impact of the world financial crisis on exports would be felt with a significant reduction in orders from the United States and the European Union in the coming months (by second half of 2009). Exports to the EU increased 6% while those to the US markets dropped 2% in early 2009. Export demand in January did not show the full picture due to prior orders but there would be a sharp decrease hereafter as the global crisis intensifies, exporters commented. Thus, apparel manufacturers imposed severe job cuts and reduced production to face the economic crisis, which was predicted to take over a year to ease off. Sri Lanka's Central Bank in its external sector performance report for January 2009 said despite a challenging year, exports of textile and garments for January were encouraging as they grew by 4.5%. The Bank said that the trade deficit contracted by 66.5% this January, year-on-year to US$208 million, led by low trade volumes. Exports declined 11.6% to US$491 million, and imports decreased 40.5% to US$699 million in the first month of this year. Overall exports declined 5.2% to US$385 million. While exporters accepted that the export drops were caused by the global economic crisis, the over-valued Sri Lankan rupee was considered an obstacle for the country's export competitiveness. Bangladesh Garment sector benefits with low-cost production The Bangladesh ready-made garments (RMG) sector was among the few not to feel the chill due to the global economic downturn. The RMG sector recorded US$6.05 billion in export earnings during the first half of the current fiscal year (2008-09), registering a 24.18% growth. The chief of the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) of Bangladesh ruled out any fallout from the global credit crunch on the country's garments exports after its two main items, woven and knitwear, registered 44.66% growth in the first quarter of the current fiscal year. Industry players explained that Bangladesh is experiencing a "Walmart effect", i.e. as consumers have less income, they are trading down to cheaper clothes. Bangladesh is able to gain more orders from overseas buyers, thanks to its reputation for producing cheap products. There are, however, hidden risks. First, buyers placing large volumes of orders demanded for cheaper prices as well as trade discounts. Bangladeshi factories had to provide discounts ranging 5%-15%, as well as reduced quoted prices. This led to some factories accepting orders at cost level or even lower so as to keep their facilities running. Second, Bangladesh's RMG exporters face a number of internal hurdles. The country does not have sufficient backward linkages, and most of the raw materials
Environmental Watch Recycling fabrics gaining popularity by Michelle Phong Textile recycling refers to the reusing or reprocessing post-consumer clothing, pre-consumer fibrous materials from the manufacturing process, and other materials, e.g. used PET bottles. Clothing and fabric generally consists of composites of biodegradable natural fibers and un-biodegraded synthetic plastics. Methods of recycling depend on what kinds of fabrics, blends or materials involved. In the UK alone, about two million tones (or ₤23 billion) of clothing are purchased per annum, with the fast/discount fashion sector (characterized by low-cost, short lifetime garments) making up one-fifth of the UK market, according to the UK Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA). In a report published this February, DEFRA mentioned that about 1.5-2 million tones of clothing are disposed each year in the UK, with 16% recovered and the remainder (over 1.2 million tonnes) destined for landfill. Recycling offers both environmental and economic benefits as it lowers the need for landfill space, the UK Waste Watch says. In particular, textiles present problems in landfill, as synthetic products do not decompose, while woollen garments produce global-warming contributor methane when decomposing. Subsequently, recycling helps reduce the use of virgin resources, pollution (e.g. effluent) and energy consumption. Recycling represents a key component in the realm of sustainability, and it is relatively underdeveloped. Those appealed by the idea of making recycled/recyclable fabrics, however, have found their way. Taiwan and Japan developing recycled fabrics Taiwanese manufacturers have worked on recycled fabrics development for about a decade. Its green fabric development will be under the spotlight at the Taipei Innovative Textile Application Show (TITAS 2009) in Taipei on October 15-17 this year. The Bluesign-approved Ever Recycle of Everest Textile is produced from 100% recycled polyester, such as used polyester bottles and old clothes / fabrics. In addition to being the same as fabrics made from virgin polyester, the product is said to feature added functions for breathability, quick dry and water repellence. Libolon, a brand jointly developed by Li Peng and Lea Lea, includes two series of eco product into the product family, namely RePET and Ecoya. RePET is a polyester yarn series made from recycled PET bottles, while Ecoya is a colored yarn series made by injecting various specific pigments into the polymer during the spinning process. Recycled PET fabrics are also being developed and promoted by humanitarian groups in Taiwan, such as Tzu Chi recycled PET fabrics. Tzu Chi brand is owned by the Tzu Chi International Humanitarian Aid Association (TIHAA). Additionally, Nan Ya Plastics Corporation has developed the technology of producing high quality polyester fiber, EcoGreen, through the recycled PET bottles. The Taiwan Textile Research Institute (TTRI) estimated that fabric made from recycled PET bottles is priced at more than NT$120 (US$3.87) per kilogram. The TTRI also observed that recycled polyester fabrics are gaining popularity among international retailers and apparel brands. Another example is set by Teijin Group based in Japan. Teijin Group launched this March the Ecopet yarn made from recycled PET drink bottles and a resulting Eco-a-wear fabric. Teijin, through Eco-a-wear, is introducing the first ecologically friendly polyester and wool blend fabric in the world, the company said. Made from recycled plastic bottles and blended with wool, the fabric is elegant, soft to the touch and wrinkle resistant. Other Eco-a-wear products include blends with viscose and cotton or 100% fully recycled polyester. It took Teijin two years to perfect Eco-a-wear before it is brought to market, showing the commitment of the company in environmental protection. "Interest in sustainability has grown with the consumer more aware about waste output," said Moses Cohen, Business Development and Project Manager at N.I. Teijin Shoji (USA) Inc. Patagonia targets to recycle all apparel by 2010 US-based Patagonia has stepped further and built a recycling system of polyester fabrics to confine the environmental impact of fabric making. In its recent report of "Closing the Loop - A Report on Patagonia's Common Threads Garment Recycling Program" publicized this March, Patagonia shared experiences accumulated since the launch of the Common Threads program in fall 2005. This program, as part of the company's efforts to reduce its environmental footprint, invites customers to return used-up
Environmental Watch clothing and delivers the retired garments to a fiber manufacturer that uses those items to make new products. Meanwhile, not yet fully worn-out garment should be donated, rather than being recycled. Patagonia started using recycled fibers in 1993, when Synchilla fleece made from recycled polyester was introduced. The company currently uses recycled polyester in many applications. It also includes recycled nylon and recycled wool in its product line. The Common Threads program launched for the first time in 2005 a recyclable Capilene garment with the help of Teijin Inc from Japan, which developed Eco-Circle, the closed-loop, garment-to-garment recycling process for the Capilene underwear. Patagonia set up a reverse-distribution system to collect retired garments from customers and send them to Teijin for recycling. To confirm that recycling would cause less environmental harm than transporting used-up garments across the Pacific, Patagonia conducted an analysis of the Common Threads process to calculate the energy and carbon dioxide (CO2) emissions for turning garments into recycled polyester versus using petroleum-derived feedstock to make virgin polyester. It found that making DMT (dimethyl terephthalate, the precursor material to polyester in Teijin's process) from Patagonia Capilene uses 76% less energy and emits 42% less CO2 than making it from petroleum. The CO2 savings jumps to 77% if the garment is incinerated rather than recycled. This confirmed that closed-loop recycling considerably reduces environmental harm. In spring of 2007, Patagonia expanded the Common Threads Recycling Program to accept 100%-cotton T-shirts, Patagonia fleece, as well as Polartec fleece from any brand. In 2008, the company began labeling clothes that are recyclable through Common Threads with instructions for return at the end of useful product life, including Capilene, fleece, T-shirts, as well as some board shorts and polyester jackets. The retailer also launched the first recyclable nylon waterproof/breathable shell, which was developed with Toray of Japan. Patagonia explained that the garment recycling processes at Teijin and Toray entail chemical recycling, in which materials are chemically dissolved to their precursor chemicals. The advantage of chemical recycling is that color and small impurities can be removed and the resulting recycled fiber is almost the same as virgin fiber. Each season the company tracks the number of recyclable styles as a percentage of all Patagonia products. Each style is treated equally. With different product lines in the fall and spring seasons, they are compared separately. In fall 2008, 45% of Patagonia's product line was recyclable. For Fall 2009, it will be 65%. In spring 2008, 28% of its products were recyclable; for spring 2009 it has increased to 38%, according to Patagonia. The company reported that it is working to meet the 2010 goal: to make all Patagonia products recyclable through the Common Threads Garment Recycling Program. "It is not yet possible to source all of our synthetic fiber as recycled because of special yarn sizes and characteristics that we require for some applications... It is unlikely we will make all products recyclable by 2010, but possibly all apparel. We will continue to strive for 100% recyclability even after 2010," said Todd Copeland who handles Common Threads Material Development & Environmental Assessment of Raw Materials. Some challenging clothing items yet to be recyclable are, for instance, down-filled garments, shells with polyurethane barriers, and fabrics with high spandex content. More hurdles include how to sort and remove unrecycled items (e.g. trims) from recyclable items (e.g. down insulation), and cost consideration, Patagonia added. So far, the company has recycled more than 6,000 kg of garments, and collected much more since 2005. It is committed to taking end-of-life responsibility for its products, so it may consider mechanically recycling or downcycling products for which chemical recycling capability does not exist. "Using recycled fibers is often more expensive, and Patagonia is willing to invest a reasonable amount for developing more environmentally-friendly products. Patagonia continually strives to reduce the impact of our products and our customers expect this type of responsible behaviour," said Mr Copeland. Caption: Collected Patagonia garments (above) are sorted and processed into recycled poly pellets Benchmarking recycled fabrics Besides, Control Union Certifications took the lead to introduce Global Recycle Standard in November 2008. The standard specifies in accordance with three major principles: • Traceability: transport, control of incoming products, administration (e.g. documentation), quality control; • Environment management; and • Social responsibility (workers' health and safety, rights, and training). Finished or half-finished products containing recycled raw material can label products as "Global Recycle Standard" product, which is categorized based on the amount of pre- and/or post-consumer recycled raw material the product contains. This amount is expressed in a percentage with a minimum of 5%, according to Control Union Certifications.
Environmental Watch Carbon emissions discussed at Prime Source Forum Carbon emissions and other sustainability-related issues were placed on the agenda at this year's Prime Source Forum, held in Hong Kong early this April. Speakers at the forum agreed on the growing importance of sustainability in the global textile and garment supply chain, following the mounting awareness among consumers. Alice Cohen from the British Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) at the unit of EU & International Sustainable Consumption and Production told ATA Journal that the UK government launched a sustainable clothing action plan at the recent London Fashion Week early this year, involving about 30 organizations, companies and overseas partners, including Marks and Spencer, Nike and Tesco. Sustainable clothing refers to those products that maximize its benefits while minimizing disadvantages not limited to the environment, but can also include other aspects that help a business develop sustainably (i.e. capable of developing in the long run). Both retailers and manufacturers (particularly those with dyeing and laundering facilities) can contribute to reduction of carbon (CO2) emissions in logistics and manufacturing processes, according to Jacqui Dixon, Director of CSR Asia. Dr John R Easton, at the DyStar Textiles Services (Ecology Solutions) of DyStar UK Limited, identified key drivers of sustainability clothing: laws (e.g. REACH), labels, and logos for presentation. There are challenges, however. Dr Easton observed that the textile and garment supply chain is lengthy and complex with different languages among various communities along the textile and apparel supply chain. Future approaches may lie in the areas of tracing and reporting, accountability, and benchmarking. What the industry will need include a framework, partners (in the industry) and a concerted communicative language in the pursuit of sustainability. He expected the industry to move from making and following restricted substances lists to the seek of eco-efficiency; for instance, how much quantity of wastes is generated in manufacturing a unit of fabrics, and how effectively can a user reduce wastes from that level through resource optimization. Ms Dixon from the CSR Asia said that a partnership approach between retailers and manufacturers is essential so that it will not serve as a pleasing policy. Last but not the least comes the consideration of cost. Although consumers in developed countries in general show a higher level of awareness and preference in sustainable clothing, it may take time for them to get ready to pay the pollution caused in manufacturing clothes they buy and wear. Dr Easton added that questions like who picks up the bill and who takes home the reward deserve more thoughts. A further report on more eco-efficient chemicals are covered in Chemicals and Auxiliary column on page 52. Eco-friendly finishing solutions presented At Huntsman, social and environmental responsibility is a founding philosophy based on the platform of Responsible Care. Innovations are designed to be sustainable - by minimizing inputs whilst maximizing benefits. At the China Interdye 2009 this April, Huntsman Textile Effects introduced a number of eco-friendly finishing solutions, including the DuPont Capstone products, Gentle Power Bleach and Silpure. Stefan Koebrich, Regional Technical Manager, Pretreatment & Whiteners, Asia Pacific, Huntsman Textile Effects said: "Innovation and eco-friendliness are interlocking in Huntsman's continuous R&D efforts. We are committed to offering energy-saving and eco-friendly solutions so as to achieve environmentally responsible manufacturing process in the textile and garment sector. This will help our clients deliver maximum performance, yet at less investment costs and with minimal environmental footprint on Earth." Caption: From left: Sharon Chung, Pascal Renger, Stefan Koebrich and Helen Ke from Huntsman Europe promotes sustainable apparel consumption The European Commission and the European retail sector launched a Retail Forum as part of their drive to promote more environmentally sustainable consumption patterns this March. Meanwhile, the Retailers' Environmental Action Plan (REAP) was launched. The forum aimed to generate a better understanding of the practical measures needed to promote sustainable consumption and production. Over time the result should be greater availability of environment-friendly and energy-efficient products in shops and better information to consumers on how to use products (e.g. apparel) in the most ecological way. Representative of the European Retail Round Table (ERRT), Pierre-Olivier Beckers from, President and CEO, Delhaize Group, commented: "Despite the very difficult economic climate, the move towards sustainable consumption will only deepen and accelerate... Indeed, the younger generation of consumers and of our staff associates are even more demanding in terms of what they want us to do. They will keep the pressure on us into the future, a pressure we accept and welcome."
Feature Story Global garment retailers may face feeble market until 2010 International garment retail industry, especially mid- to high-end segments, as well as luxury brands, are impacted by the weak world economy. This may help manufacturers discern the globe’s garment demand this and next years, Lucia Carpio reports Facing a global credit crunch which has seen even the most well-to-do consumers cutting back on their discretionary spending, fashion businesses are re-engineering their business strategies to help them tackle the new market realities and seeking directions to optimise the balance between cost and value while offering quality to their customers. While the world's heads of governments have been drawing up economic measures to rescue the global financial system, good news has been thin on the ground for the textile and fashion industry. In April, in the same week as the London G20 summit announced a US$1 trillion economic booster package for the world's economies, the Italian fashion association - Altagamma - in Milan announced that there is no recovery insight for the luxury market before 2010, and also suggested the US$230 billion fashion and luxury goods industry is set to shrink this year. The Italian fashion association predicts an 8.7% fall in sales for luxury clothing, a 6.2% drop in shoe and accessories sales, a 4.8% decline in perfume and cosmetics sales and a 12.2% fall in jewellery and watch sales. Altagamma chairman, Leonardo Ferragamo, says there is need for new strategies and reforms, as "the crisis is the deepest and most violent our generations have ever experienced." Altagamma revealed that the US will be hardest hit with the sales drop estimated at 14.8%. Japan will also suffer with sales predicted to fall 11.7%. In Europe, annual sales of luxury goods are likely to decline by 8.8% this year. Asia and the Middle East, both strongly growing markets are expected to be better off with declines of 2.3% and 2.1%. Clothing sales will fall 10.6% in the first six months this year. The decline will slow to 7.8% in the second half. As Muriel Zingraff, senior adviser for retail, luxury goods and fashion at investment firm Oaktree Capital Management, had put it, "We are entering times where consumers are either looking for bargain or for investment pieces". The lack of liquidity and the shortage of credit from banks has inevitably affected the purchasing power of retailers. At the recent key fashion trade events and fashion week shows in Europe, it was noticeable that retailers were sending smaller buying teams, if at all, and buyers were cautious in their selections. As one buyer from Moscow had put it, those brands that have been too expensive and did not spend money on advertising, and those suppliers who are not on time with their delivery would be suffering most. Some like Armand Hadida of the L'Eclaireur stores in Paris, said they were reducing their buys this season. In Italy, which is heavily dependent on fashion for its economy and international status, lagging sales have been affecting the industry. Italy's minister of economic development, Claudio Scajola, has announced the "first interventions" are set in place to resuscitate the fashion sector, just as it has done for its motor and home appliance industries. Timely news for companies like IT Holding, where administrators had been appointed for its Ittierre unit that distributes goods for brands like Gianfranco Ferré, Versace and Cavalli. While the downturn in the world economy has forced businesses to seek new directions, the market is contracting amid tougher competition. Carole Woodhead, chief executive of Hermes home delivery courier company, said that the difficult economic climate has left many fashion businesses to streamline their operations. "With margins squeezed, companies need to seek new ways of creating a competitive advantage and add value for customers," she said. The challenge is to get the right balance between creativity, perceived value, price and quality. Versace is reviving its diffusion lower-priced Versus line, while Valentino announced it had bought Vionnet, the historic French fashion house, with plans to grow it as a niche brand. For many Italian fabric producers, upholding the "Made in Italy" label that stands for quality is important for stopping the sliding sales. Managing Director of Gruppo Albini, Silvio Albini said that quality and innovation research are the answers. Caption: Leonardo Ferragamo (Photo: Altagamma)
Feature Story "We are facing a deep crisis and the end is not in sight. Without being influenced by negative economic situations, we are investing constantly in customer services, product research and innovation," said Mr Albini. The group took the opportunity at the Milano Unica and the Paris Premiere Vision trade fairs respectively to introduce its premium new shirting fabric in two-fold 300s under the brand Cullinan and organic twill fabrics in two-fold 100s. Another Italian mill, Canclini, also emphasised its "ultra-modern technology in innovation" with its sophisticated Egyptian cotton also in two-fold 300s featuring classic weaves. India's fabric mill, Raymond, has also chosen to highlight its innovative and pioneering capabilities to distinguish themselves from competitors. It strives to be known as the first textile company not only in India, but ahead of Europe and Japan to produce Super 140s worsted fabric for suiting using 11.6 micron wool. The Chairman and Managing Director, Gautam Hari Singhania, said the company is poised to become a global player and has entered into joint ventures with Italian manufacturer Gruppo Zambaiti and with Belgian denim company UCO to create synergies in sourcing, manufacturing and marketing. While European labels are returning to their core values, department stores have to rework their strategies to win shoppers. Caption: Luxury clothing facing challenges in current economic toughness (Photo: Harvey Nichols) Department stores rework strategies Chief Executive Joseph Wan of Harvey Nichols, the luxury department store group said recently at a retail conference in London that it has suffered a "sudden" and "significant" drop in sales following the banking crash. "A lot of wealth has evaporated and cannot be replaced overnight. The total consumption pool has shrunk since last year. We must adapt," he added. As the group's commercial profits is expected to fall by 40% this year, and in view of the declining value of the pound, it has launched a new marketing campaign to appeal to shoppers. Commercial director, Patrick Hanly revealed there is a change to how people are spending their money. "The top end of our business is holding up (what we call the top designer end) but it's the lower end - T-shirts, jeans and casualwear that is not doing so well," said Hanly. Meanwhile, retailers in the middle mass market are losing out as shoppers become more selective in their consuming habits. In the UK, Marks & Spencer (M&S) executive chairman, Sir Stuart Rose, has warned retailers not to panic and abandon their core brand values in the recession. Speaking at the London retail conference, Sir Rose said that one of the keys to surviving the downturn was to hold market share, although he added that he did not know when the recession would end. Executive chairman, Phil Wrigley, at UK retail chain New Look said retailers will have to share some of the burden with consumers. For those businesses that struggle to further reduce costs and gain extra market share, it would be "counter-intuitive to charge higher prices when consumers' budgets are stretched". NEXT chief executive, Simon Wolfson, said his company is negotiating with suppliers to absorb some of the impact of the weak sterling on the second half of the year. His company had bought the dollar at an average price of US$1.50 to the pound versus US$1.98 last year and added that both selling prices and gross margins would be adversely affected. However, fashion tycoon Sir Philip Green of the Arcadia group cited speed of the supply chain rather than price as the only way to stay ahead in the current economic climate. Speaking at the recent opening of his new Topshop store in New York, Sir Philip said that customers would be focused on a quick turnaround of stock and newness in product, rather than on price this year. Caption: Sir Stuart Rose (Photo: M&S) Caption: A new Topshop flagship store opens in New York City this April (Photo: Arcadia) Value-based and multi-channel Katrin Magnussen, Senior Fashion Analyst at Mintel, said being competitive is essential but not everyone in a recession sees cheap as being the best value. "Investing in service and knowledgeable staff is also important in pulling in customers," she said, adding that the market for ethical clothing is going from strength to strength. Verdict Research's retail analyst, Simon Chinn, said the value-based clothing retailers will continue to thrive in the downturn. "Dutch clothing company C&A launched a new concept last year under the banner Avanti, which trades at the discount end of the market. German discount clothing chains such as Takko and Kik are also doing well," said Mr Chinn. Mr Chinn added that Europe's two largest clothing retailers Spain's Inditex and Sweden's H&M are well positioned to weather the economic storm. Both have expanded abroad extensively and this geographical diversification will help in some way to mitigate declining sales in Europe. "For the retailers, being multi-channel is also more and more important, as customers are getting more knowledgeable and demanding of being able to browse online and buy in-store, or vice versa," said Ms Magnussen.
Feature Story Apparel bright spots found in low season by Staff Reporters The NPD Group, an international market research company, takes a closer look at the US apparel market and through ongoing economic challenges, is finding some pockets of growth in an otherwise fizzling fashion market. One area of the apparel market that continues to hold on is the jeans business. According to the NPD Group. Consumer Tracking Service, dollar volume sales for total jeans rose 2.3% for the three months ending with February 2009 (a key period of the economic downturn for the consumer), while total apparel sales declined 6.3% for that same time period. Additionally, premium jeans sales grew 17% in 2008, and the category is still growing. Premium jeans refer to jeans sold at US$100 or above sold in department and national chain stores, according to the NPD Group. Between December 2008 and February 2009, sales of premium jeans rose 2.3%. "That is the time period that was the most challenging in terms of consumer spending, so any growth during that time is significant. With the newfound focus on fit by some of the commodity brands coupled with women's never ending quest for the perfect pair of jeans, the passion for denim is alive and well," said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst, the NPD Group. Mr Cohen explained it is because of pent-up demand. "Previously, outerwear was not an item that made it onto the consumer's priority shopping list. Outerwear purchases were delayed for a year or so, and that created a greater need this past year," he said, adding that technology, comfort, and variety have also helped drive growth in a traditionally stubborn market. The biggest surprise in the US apparel market is in tights sales. Dollar volume sales of tights were up 11% for the three months ending with February 2009. For annual 2008, overall hosiery sales were up almost 3%. "Here is an example of where the current economy has actually helped drive growth. For a long time the hosiery industry has been struggling to get consumers connected to the category and think of it as an important‘accessory’to their wardrobes. And now, consumers realize that legwear is an inexpensive wardrobe makeover or enhancement, which has helped the sales of tights flourish," said Mr Cohen. Among all of the pockets of growth highlighted by NPD, the most impressive category for sustained growth is dresses, the NPD Group says. The NPD Group's Consumer Tracking service showed that sales of women's dresses during the three months ending February 2009 were up 11%. For the year 2008, dresses posted a 12% growth rate. "The dress offers the perfect opportunity to buy a complete outfit. The fact that the dress is trend right and has even been embraced by many high profile magazines, celebrities, and the entertainment industry helped drive its growth," noted Mr Cohen, "Spring is here, and the progressive retailers will recognize the consumer likes this trend. Trends that last and grow don't come around very often, particularly these days." "There are some glimmers of hope," said Mr Cohen, "Maybe the consumer is showing us that fashion will lead apparel back into a more positive position. And maybe those soft numbers from fall of last year will be just the launching pad retailers and manufacturers need to take a leap forward and invest in what the consumer wants. Not what the industry wants them to want." Caption: Premium jeans were found growing in the current looming economy (Photo: Trussardi jeans) Caption: Material performance advances help drive outerwear (Photo: Columbia Sportwear) Sales of premium jeans Annual 2008 Change from 2007 (Dollar volume sales) Total jeans US$100+ 17% Men's jeans US$100+ 21% Women's jeans US$100+ 16% (Source: The NPD Group) Three months ending February 2009 % change Dec-Feb 08 vs Dec-Feb 07 % change Dec-Feb 09 vs Dec-Feb 08 Total Apparel -6.4 -6.3 Outerwear -7 8.7 Annual 2008 % change Jan-Dec 07 vs Jan-Dec 06 % change Jan-Dec 08 vs Jan-Dec 07 Total Apparel 4.2 -3.6 Outerwear 3.8 6.2 Outerwear sales have been posting significant growth rates and have outpaced all the categories in NPD's Consumer Tracking Service for apparel (Source: The NPD Group)
Market Focus Lingerie producing prowess and purchasing power grow in Asia by Michelle Phong The world lingerie industry has experienced infirm sales and likely retreating margins following the global economic crisis late last year. From then onwards, lingerie retailers and brands have been closely monitoring sales figures to construct realistic sales projection for this year. While innovative and attractive intimate wear appeal to customers, an acceptable price level helps allow them to slightly loosen the purse string, according to western intimate wear retailers. Despite the macro-economic shadow, the global lingerie industry is not likely to see a major downward growth trend due to the growing Russian and Asian lingerie markets that can help compensate the weakened US and Western European lingerie market, according to the "Global Intimate Apparel Market: 2008 Edition" report. The Russian lingerie market is witnessing a higher-than-average growth rate compared to the overall apparel industry, as the Russian middle class so far seemed to be less impacted by the global economic crisis. Wages and salaries in Russia have grown at an annual average rate of 12.8% over the past years. Markets in Asia, particularly China and India, have also fueled the lingerie industry. Lingerie brands and retailers observe a rising number of their potential target consumers in these regions due to increasing urbanization, brand awareness, and rapid retail growth. The global lingerie market grew at a rate of approximately 3%, and the Asian lingerie market expanded more rapidly at 8% (by the second half of 2008), the report mentioned. On the supply side, Asia is also gaining importance as oriental manufacturers have played an increasingly crucial role in the global lingerie supply chain, with their strong expertise in the complicated process of making bras and varied intimate wear. Western lingerie retailers have put a higher priority on proximity to the design and supply base in Asia. US brand designs in Hong Kong "This proximity allows us to react speedily following the market changes," explained Nathalie Martinet, Vice-President, R&D and Launch of Victoria's Secret Stores. She has stationed at the Hong Kong design office of Victoria's Secret since July 2008. The company is the first US lingerie retailer to establish a design office right at the Asian manufacturing base. Ms Martinet told ATA Journal during the International Symposium of Intimate Apparel held by the Hong Kong Polytechnic University in Hong Kong this March. The Hong Kong office currently has a team of five and works with the New York design office. This has made the frequent communications between the US retailer and Asian manufacturers a lot easier. "We would like to work with our partners in Asia as close as possible to have face-to-face interaction. We can now engage in brain storming on a daily basis," she said. This was more challenging when there is a 12-hour difference between New York and the China region. Swift reaction to the market needs is critical in this competitive market. Ms Martinet explained that about four or five years ago, a bra launch was made approximately every three months, but Victoria’s Secret now offers 12 launches around a year. Operating with 1,000 stores in the US, the company shares a market of 34% in the country and off-store sales are available via online and mailing channels. Ms Martinet considered it important to continue focusing on innovation this year. She said: "A bra is highly technical with possibly up to 51 pieces building it and therefore 51 opportunities for improvement." Innovation, however, has to remain close to the heart of the consumer, which can be characterized with three needs: excitement, performance and basic. Recovery, durability and breathability can be classed as basic needs, which are implicitly expected by consumers. Performance needs include hand feel, aesthetics, and enhancement/swell. Excitement can be created if a product offers the consumer some features they would love to have but did not notice before. Examples can be minimal seams and print on interior fabrics. Some recent novelties made by Victoria's Secret are the Dream Angels Caption: Nathalie Martinet Caption: Newly launched Perfect One by Victoria's Secret
Market Focus Demi bra that has exclusive memory foam for ultimate comfort, and the Biofit that is an answer to customization for consumer delight, according to Ms Martinet. The latest launch in March 2009 is described by Victoria's Secret as "the perfect one", which offers engineered support and shape enhancement. Consumer purchasing behavior is framed by the budget consideration under the current economic situation, and basic and performance needs can be prevailing factors. Meanwhile, they can still respond to excitement factors, Ms Martinet said. Innovative bonding technologies replacing stitches On the technical front, the quest for stitch-free design of bras is getting particularly popular along with other innovative research areas such as molding, chemistry, smart fabrics and environmental protection. Starting a decade ago, Bemis has been developing its Sewfree technology, initially for a European intimate wear brand. Its applications have been extended to the segments of swimsuits and technical outerwear. The technology involves a process of heat bonding, welding, fusing and/or laminating to replace conventional stitching with heat-activated adhesive films. John Cha, Product Development Manager at Bemis Hong Kong Ltd said: "Sewfree is a continuous thermoplastic adhesive film, capable of providing 100% surface coverage and adhesion. Using highly elastic polyurethane (PU) that can work well with most fibers, the coverage can be uniform or precise. It contains no VOCs or solvents, making it safe and easy to handle." This stitch-free bonding offers a lower profile than sewing and gives smooth seam, making the resulted intimate wear aesthetically appealing, Mr Cha commented. It is also less abrasive to the end-user and reduces weight of the end product. The transparent film requires no color matching and can improve water resistance. Users can choose from a range of machinery to realize the technology, according to Bemis. Any machine able to apply heat (energy) and pressure for a certain amount of time can be eligible. Some commonly used machinery/technologies include: • Platen heat sealers (shuttle, carouset, belt or molded forms), • Ultrasonic, laser and radio-frequency (RF) technologies (continuous or discontinuous), and • Hot air sealers, e.g. seam sealing machines and continuous edge treatment machines. There are considerations when using stitch-free technologies. Pattern making is affected as virtually no seam is allowed. As far as product safety is concerned, compliance with Oeko Tex, CPSIA and REACH can be areas of attention. Thoughts on fabric or substrate compatibility, climatic environment and manufacturing process are also needed, Mr Cha mentioned. At the Hong Kong Mode Lingerie held this April, Invista, a producer of integrated fibers and polymers, introduced a newly developed Lycra 2.0 tape for garment. The new technology provides bonded hems, bands, and seams for garments that stretch and recover in response to body's movements. It helps reduce undergarment lines associated with bulky narrow elastics, providing intimate apparel wearers with smooth, all-day fit. It can exert less compression on the body during wear than bulky narrow elastics, and extend the durability of a garment, according to Michelle Rice, Global Director of Intimate Apparel and Swimwear, Apparel Marketing Business for Invista. Caption: John Cha China lingerie market grows above average in Asia Notably, China itself is an exciting consumer market apart from being a manufacturing base. A major lingerie and beachwear trade exhibition organizer, Eurovet observed that the Asian lingerie market represents 20% of the global market with annual growth of 8% in comparison to worldwide annual growth of 2.9%. In China, the lingerie sector showed the strongest growth with a growth of 10% in 2008 and 11% growth during the last five years. Chinese consumers currently devote on average 8% of their clothing budget to lingerie and experts expected the figure to rise to 10% in 2010. More trends in China observed by Eurovet are noteworthy. • A strong upswing in the number of higher quality "second lines". An ultra-structured market, featuring the following three key segments: "students", "young working women" and "women with high spending power". • Chinese consumers are increasingly sensitive to European style, attracted to the idea of lingerie's seductive powers. • An increasing demand for larger sizes, particularly C and D cup bras. • There is a clear diversification in the Chinese retail scene. In 2002, the ten largest brands shared 80% of the market, a figure that had fallen to 43% by 2006. • More western specialized chain stores have entered the market such as Inné and Private Shop, creating a richer and more glamorous retail landscape. In the dynamic Chinese market, domestic brands have grown rapidly, and Aimer is one of them. Founded by Zhang Rongming at Beijing in 1993 with an inventive bra product supported by shape-memory alloys, Aimer Group is one of the Chinese lingerie leaders with an annual turnover exceeding 90 million euros (in 2007). Soon after its establishment, Aimer Group attracted investment from Japan on the basis of the shape-memory bra, leading to the establishment of a joint venture to capture the emerging intimate wear market in China.
Market Focus By 2008, the group employed some 2,000 people including designers and R&D researchers, and it owns brand names of Aimer (1993), La Clover (2004), Imi's (2005), and more recently Aimer Men, to market a range of products, from intimate apparel, shape wear, warm underwear, lounge wear to swimwear and accessories. "The growth rate of Aimer brands went beyond our expectation in 2007 at over 30%. Among them, ‘La Clover' doubled from the previous year and the Imi's grew by 120% between 2006 and 2007. The men's brand also saw a remarkable increase in sales in these years," said Mr Zhang, adding that the company had accumulated substantial experience to optimally design intimate wear for women and this laid a solid foundation for it to combine fashion and size in the best way. He considered the rapid development of his brands a happy result of the appropriate use of scentific data. The group founded the Aimer Research Institute of Human Body with the Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology in 1999. Among other research projects, the institute gathered and analysed key measurements (chest/hip/waist) of women across China. A survey conducted by Beijing Apparel Institute and Aimer Group shows that the bust size of Chinese women has increased by 1cm - the average bust size for women in northern China is 83.54cm while the average bust size for women in the southern and western China is 82.21cm. The cup size also increases among Chinese women. Majority bras sold were in A and B cups, but the demand for bras in C, D and E cups has accelerated in recent years. Caption: Zhang Rongming Caption: Store design enhances the image of Aimer's brands in China (fabrics and accessories) are imported from China and Taiwan, representing up to 75% of an order value. As a result, there is little allowance for other costs such as wages, bank insta llments and factory rents. Funding is also an issue for these exporters. Expert advises to divert markets A director at the World Trade Organisation (WTO) believed Bangladesh needs to seek for potential export markets in developing nations other than the traditional countries to reduce adverse impacts brought by the global economic meltdown. "As Bangladesh heavily depends on exports to the recession affected US and European markets, it is in a vulnerable position like other least developed countries (LDCs)," said Shishir Priyadarshi, director for development division in WTO, Geneva, Switzerland. He made the remark at a dialogue on "Ongoing WTO and Doha round negotiations: concerns and interests of Bangladesh and other LDCs" in Dhaka this April. The WTO executive said that Bangladesh's textile industry's profit margin is low, making it challenging to sustain in the shrinking global trade market. He warned that the global trade may decline by 9% in 2009 due to effects of the economic dip, and Bangladesh would need to prepare itself for challenges ahead. He suggested the country to try to secure duty-free, quota-free market access to developing nations and aid for trade facilities in a bid to weather the global economic challenges. No plan to offer cash incentives Finance Adviser to the Prime Minister, Dr Moshiur Rahman, said that there was unlikely to have immediate cash incentives for the country's garment exporters due to the worst global economic downturn in near future. Garment manufacturers accounting for 76% of the country's annual shipment demanded cash subsidy worth 10% of their export value, saying they need that to compete with rivals such as China, India and Pakistan. "We know that garment export is slowing down. But it is due to the plummeting demand in the West. And every exporting country is suffering because of this global recession-related slump," said Dr Moshiur. "In this depressing demand scenario, any additional cash incentives to the garment exporters would only help subsidise the western consumers. Subsidy would give the western buyers some pretext to cut order prices," he said, adding that "so far we don't have any information that makes the case for cash incentives for garment exporters. We will definitely help them if they incur loss as a result of higher production cost than the order price." He also disagreed with the idea of currency depreciation, saying that the government cannot intervene in the money market and any significant devaluation of Bangladeshi taka would pile up miseries among local consumers and the agricultural sector. For daily news of the textile industry, please visit textile.2456.com
Machinery Technology ShanghaiTex 2009 sets textile business in motion Supported by international exhibitors, Chinese textile authorities and influential Chinese textile players, ShanghaiTex 2009 will open its doors at Shanghai New International Expo Center in Pudong, Shanghai, on June 12-15 The 14th International Exhibition on Textile Industry (ShanghaiTex 2009) has gained great support from exhibitors and the textile industry. A number of textile builders will make use of ShanghaiTex 2009 as their most important platform for market promotion this year. It is expected that total exhibition area will reach 100,000 square meters, exhibitors from 17 countries and regions, including France, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, Netherlands, Turkey, Austria, Denmark, USA, Japan, Korea, India, Singapore, Iran, PR China, Hong Kong SAR and Taiwan province will participate. The phenomenal scale of ShanghaiTex 2009 made it the world's largest professional textile machinery exhibition in 2009, and it is the choice for local and overseas textile manufacturers to source for the latest machinery and technologies. A must-visit event Key buyers enterprises, such as Shanshan Group, Ruyi Group and Luthai Textile have confirmed to visit ShanghaiTex 2009, according to the organizer, Adsale Exhibition Services. The exhibition has also gained generous support from 16 provinces in China, including Zhejiang, Jiangsu, Fujian, Anhui, Hunan, Sichuan, Jiangxi, Heilongjiang, Henan, Guangdong, Shandong, Guizhou, Shanxi, Xinjiang, Yunnan and Hubei. Representatives of international retailers and brands, including H & M and Columbia Sportswear, also confirmed their attendance in the ShanghaiTex 2009 exhibition and described the show as a must-visit event. Feng Lin, Quality Control Manager of Columbia Sportswear in Shanghai and his colleagues take ShanghaiTex seriously by pre-registering early, says the organizer. Overseas trade associations such as the Indian Textile Association, the Indonesian Textile Association and the All Pakistan Mills Association also planned to organize delegations to visit the ShanghaiTex 2009 exhibition. Despite the presence of the global economic challenge, China's textile industry maintains its competitive edge and the government continues to support the industry with increased export tax rebates for textile products and apparel. The Chinese textile industry is expected to grow stronger, while capable enterprises are taking the opportunity to expand their market share through advanced technology and product upgrade. At this year's ShanghaiTex, more professional services will be organized for buyers and exhibitors. A "Buying Guide Zone" will be set up onsite to provide guiding services to buyers according to their sourcing needs. The "2009 China Textile Industry Summit" will be held concurrently with ShanghaiTex 2009 to provide value-added services to exhibitors and visitors. ShanghaiTex 2009 is sponsored by Shanghai Textile Holding (Group) Corporation, China Council for the Promotion of International Trade Shanghai Sub-council, China Chamber of International Commerce Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, and organized by Shanghai International Exhibition Co Ltd, Shanghai Textile Technology Service & Exhibition Center and Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd. Caption: Floor plan of ShanghaiTex 2009
Machinery Technology Exhibit highlights A.Monforts W2 B66 A.Monforts will be participating at Shanghaitex as part of the German Engineering Federation (VDMA), highlighting its energy saving solutions in textiles dyeing and finishing. These solutions will include the integrated heat recovery modules and exhaust air cleaning units to reduce energy consumption and clean the exhaust air of thermo finishing ranges. Where space may be a premium, Monforts has introduced a stand-alone Energy Tower for retrofitting to existing stenters or hotflues with restricted access above the units. Energy Towers have been designed to be positioned alongside the stenter or hotflue, and feature five integrated heat recovery modules. Capitalising on the high temperature of the exhaust air, savings of up to 30% in energy costs can be achieved, in accordance with Monforts. Monforts will also give emphasis to its latest Montex TT stenter for technical textiles featuring a specially developed nozzle system for coating applications as well as outstanding maintenance features. Caption: Monforts Energy Tower with service doors open Andritz Küsters W2 B54 Andritz Küsters, will showcare their complete product range of calenders and rolls for the textile industry as well as machinery for the nonwoven industry at Shanghaitex 2009 within the German Pavilion. The enterprise from Krefeld, Germany is well supported by their representatives AKM (based in Shanghai and Hong Kong), who have derived from Kuesters Far East and Kuesters Shanghai. Andreas Lukas, Vice President of Andritz Küsters stated: “The two unique deflection controlled roll systems S-Roll and HyCon Roll are our core competence. Our clients get precisely the right calender technology their product needs.” With a maximum line force of 400 N/mm the teXcal s-roll with deflection control raises the bar to set new standards, especially in technical textiles, which require defined low air permeability such as parachute silk. Other deflection controlled calender systems with synthetic coatings are limited to a line force of 300 N/mm. The fabric needs multiple calendering, whereas the teXcal s-roll with especially adjusted surface technology can achieve best compaction results in just one passage, the company says. Caption: Andritz Küsters teXcal s-roll Arioli S.p.A. W3 H01 The VAPO2008 is an updated and technologically advanced version of the Arioli loop steam ager. The machine is designed for fixation of dyestuffs on fabrics at the following temperatures: • between 102°C and 106°C in saturated steam • between 155° and 180°C in HT steam • between 130°C and 180°C in hot air (polymerisation) It can be used for steaming of both woven and knitted fabrics such as cotton, polyester, P/C blends, silk, polyamide, wool, polyester-wool and polyester-viscose blends with different printing methods, i.e. direct and discharge printing. Benninger W3 C05 Benninger offers solutions for important textile finishing processes and specializes in the continuous open-width treatment of fabrics and interlaced yarns. With innovative process systems, the company increases efficiency and therefore provides customers with significant competitive advantages, whether with regard to increasing productivity, optimizing quality or ensuring ecological standards. Major exhibits from Benninger include the Ben-Wash, a high washing effect with low water consumption; the Ben-Bleach, from grey cloth to full dyeing or print white; the Ben-Dimensa for precise mercerization; Ben-Colour that provides one-step dyeing technology; the Knit-Line offering knitware open-width concepts; and the system of Resource Management that helps users achieve zero discharge and hence environmental protection through waste water recycling and heat recovery. Besides, Benninger tire cord and single thread installation impregnation systems are technologically mature, guaranteeing total reliability and the highest possible level of safety of the treated fabrics in the most diverse areas of application, the company says. Caption: Ben-Dimensa system of Benninger Bianco spa W3 E85 Bianco spa will exhibit the SKM1 Bianco sensor. Thanks to advanced electronical systems, the SKM1 sensor integrates two different optical systems so that the operator can choose the needle path or the column inclination processing way. These two reading modes use the Twin Scan technology that can work simultaneously both in Reflex and in Transparence, in order to be used on the widest possible range of fabrics.
Machinery Technology Brückner W2 B80 Presented by Brückner, the new Power-Frame stenter generation is characterized by the proven and patented Split-Flow air circulation system achieving an optimum temperature distribution across the complete dryer length and width. This is important for heat-setting processes and in the end decisive for the quality of the fabric. An easy reproducibility of production data is ensured with the Multi-Control Plus machine control, and more than 500 different recipes can be memorized. The preparation times are short and a uniformly high fabric quality with heat-setting processes is ensured. With the newly developed energy-saving systems, Brückner achieved to make the stentering processes even more profitable, the company says. Additionally, the dryer concept newly designed by Brückner allows to increase the production output by up to 25% with an energy consumption that has been reduced simultaneously by 25%. The more intense combination of suction and air circulation allows a homogeneous drying across the fabric width / fabric thickness and thus an optimum fabric quality with the best achievable residual shrinkage, the company says. Caption: Brückner Power-Frame stenter BTSR International W1 R01 BTSR International will unveil a novel concept of universal tension control system (UNICO). The company explains it represents a fully integrated system, which is able to automatically compensate sudden and high yarn absorption variations (yarn feeding tension peaks or falls), due to an innovative, patented working system. Changzhou Peixing E4 D33 Changzhou Peixing Textile Machinery Manufacturing Co Ltd claims to be one of the earliest companies designing and manufacturing spindle and ring in China. The company explains that its spindles and ring are suitable for the installation and maintenance of spinning frame, twisting frame, two-for-one twister and drawing twister dealing with cotton, woolen, flax, thin silk, chemical fiber, fiberglass and their blends. Changzhou Runyuan W2 D45 Changzhou Runyuan will be exhibiting a range of machinery including RCS biaxial machine and RDT Jacquard seamless warp knitting machine. The company says it will showcase innovative warp knitting systems that are domestically developed in China.
Machinery Technology Changzhou Yueye W4 A08 Changzhou Yueye Textile Machine specializes in equipment for corduroy and textile machines mainly for dyeing and printing mills. The company offers systems that collect used heat and more machines in the fields of corduroy, finishing and packing, as well as drying and printing. Chemtax W1 E68 / W1 E75 / W1 F68 / W3 E01 Based in Hong Kong, Chemtax Industrial represents some 20 brands of machinery systems in the Greater China region. Datatex W3 E01 Datatex will present ERP solutions specifically for the needs of textiles and apparel production that give visibility and integration, and PC-based tools that interface to legacy ERP. Erbatech W3 E01 Erbatech will showcase four innovative solutions and concepts: cold pad batch padder Scout Color for reactive dyeing of knitted fabrics; stretch-minimizing vacuum suction unit Vac-O-Vac for knitted fabrics; water-recycling in a knitwear finishing plant; and heat recovery for relax dryers and stenters. Exacta W1 E75 Exacta srl, a producer of linking machines, will present the advantages of its complete range of linking and automatic linking machines, including Exacta Quasar / Tubular, Exacta Fully Fashioned, Exacta Stoptronic, and Exacta Master Overlock. Ferraro W3 E01 Ferraro will display a new Easy Comptex, which features compact design, better performance in shrinkage and speed. There is a new magnetic stretcher, which is very light with a particular profile to avoid any mark risk, the company says. With a newly patented device, Regulus, it is the first stretcher with an adjustable entry angle. It allows improved and automatic adjustment according the type of fabric and its thickness, Ferraro explains. Lamperti Company W3 E01 Lamperti Company supplies a variety of textile finishing machines, including raising, sueding, shearing, lustring, tigering, termobrushing, thread cuts system and etc. A new combine / sueding machine will be introduced at ShanghaiTex 2009, which combines in one machine various latest technologies in abrasive materials research, such as ceramic and carbon. Mentasti W1 E75 For the first pressing, Mentasti will show the new model ST91-E, which is capable of processing knitted panels of the finest gauges (up to 18gg. flat knit). For garment washing/drying, on display will be the latest electronic units for samples/small productions that have the same construction and software of the bigger units. A super compact automatic pressing machine 01WS will be introduced for final pressing. Santoni W1 F68 On a large booth with more than 650 square meters, Santoni SpA, under Lonati Group, will exhibit a full range of seamless knitting machines (Santoni and Sanglacomo brands), including both single and double jersey models in various diameters and gauges to cover a complete range of applications such as underwear, outwear, sportswear, active wear, swimwear, and prêt-a-porter. For Vignoni brand, innovative ultra-fine gauge circular knitting machinery will be displayed, while for MecMor brand, a unique circular open variable panel garment machine TJ1800 model will be exhibited with newly developed software. Vanwyk W3 E01 Vanwyk will reveal its solutions in the area of both gravimetrical and volumetric dispensing systems, as well as software, which is am important component for dispensing technology. The company develops an array of software for the actual dispensing as well as for in-house data management. Danfoss Drives W3 Q37 Danfoss Drives will highlight its VLT drives solution. The reliable and innovative VLT drives are designed to support any automation application and provide major energy savings. An award-winning, innovative modular design makes VLT drives extremely flexible, which can be delivered within days highly customised drives, tested from the factory, the company says. VLT drives are provided within the range 0.18 - 1,200 kW. The VLT AutomationDrive will be exhibited in Shanghai, which represents a single drive concept that controls the entire range of operations from ordinary to servo like applications on any machine or production line, according to Danfoss Drives. The modular open-technology platform, on which the VLT AutomationDrive is built, makes it adaptable and programmable. In addition, its configurable, user-friendly interface supports local languages and letters. DTC Systems W3 K01 DTC Systems (Hong Kong) is an agent of several manufacturers' products for the China market, including Datacolor's computer color matching and quality control systems, and Autofoam's foam finishing systems. It also sells laboratory dispensers, dyeing machines, and dye house integration systems. Emerson CT W2 B01 As a world supplier of AC & DC drives, controls and drives systems, Emerson CT has continually strengthened their design and development capabilities to provide optimum industrial automation
Machinery Technology solutions with high level technical performance and flexibility for customers in various industries like textile, printing, machine tools, and elevator etc throughout China. Emerson CT will showcase a wide range of AC & DC drives, servos, HMI, PLC, and drive control solutions as well as their vast experiences in the textile industry. Erhardt+Leimer W2 B56 Erhardt+Leimer is a specialist for system solutions and automation technology on running webs and belts, ranks worldwide among manufacturers of control equipment also for the textile industry. It offers customized solutions for web guiding, web spreading, measuring and inspection technology, web cutting systems as well as weft straightening systems. Eura Drives Electric W1 J35 Eura Drives Electric is a Chinese manufacturer devoted to the development, manufacture and marketing of AC drives and soft starters in China. The company obtained ISO9001 certificate, CE certificate and CCC certificate. The company will present a range of products including the LT3300 series of Modbus master machine control, constant linear speed (PID) control and frequency (linear speed) up/down control. Fadis W3 C01 Fadis offers machinery to prepare yarns, in the form of packages or hanks. This year, Fadis will present the Sincro M, a new innovation of winding machine with precision crossing and electronic yarn guide which can reach speeds up to 2000 m/min (mechanical speed up to 2500 m/min). With the Sincro M machine, it is possible to produce FAPP low density packages (Fadis Precision Package), which allow for wide retraction margins of the yarn during the dyeing phase, thus keeping a high residual elasticity percentage of the elasticized yarn. Therefore, with this technological system and other machines of Fadis, it is possible to obtain qualitative results quite similar to hank dyeing but with the same simplicity and economy typical of yarn package dyeing, the company says. The fundamental innovation of these machines is the use of the precision crossing with electronic yarn guide and positively driven swift instead of a positively driven bobbin. With the "precision crossing with positively driven swift" technology, it is possible to obtain FAPP with a controlled yarn laying, without patterning, which are a Caption: Sincro M machine of Fadis
Machinery Technology guarantee for good unwinding at a constant tension, thus allowing to keep elasticity and a high performance during subsequent production phases, according to Fadis. Fong's Group W3 B38 Fong's National Engineering Fong's National Engineering will urders core the Labwin laboratory package dyeing machine, which is an easy-to-handle and flexible tool for package dyeing plants. Used for the pre-treatment, dyeing and after treatment of packages and etc, the Labwin machine has following features, according to the company. •Versatility in capacity •Versatility in coupling •Consistent liquor ratio •Excellent levelness •Direct application of recipe •Air-pad technology and flexible spindle. Caption: Fong's Labwin laboratory package dyeing machine Then Maschinen The patented, aerodynamic Then-Airflow dyeing system differs fundamentally from conventional jet and overflow dyeing machines based on the hydraulic principle, Then Maschinen says. Then-Airflow SYN A G1 system operates with the same highly advanced dyeing technology as the Synergy system, but at temperature of up to 98℃. This ensures the optimum protection of the fabric, which receives outstanding surface quality due to the Then-Airflow process. Monforts Fong's Monforts Fong's will introduce the latest complement to post-finishing range, MonfongTex 868 shrinking range. With compressive shrinking technique, it imparts dimensional stability and consistent residual shrinkage to woven fabric. Since late last year, the market coverage of Monforts Fong's has been extended to the Southeast Asian countries; namely Vietnam, Burma, Laos, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, the Philippines; and peripheral zones such as Mongolia, North and South Korea and Nepal. Xorella Xorella will highlight its well-received XO-Series energy saving vacuum conditioning and heat setting machines. The company explains that the new XO-series uses key components with high quality and engineering in both performance and reliability to help the customers to save the energy consumption by 15-25%. Cornerstone of the new series is the advanced XO-steaming system, which uses the intermediate vacuum technology and combines with internally produced 100% saturated steam to effectively condition, set, pre-shrinkage and relax the textile products, Xorella explains. Grob Textile AG W1 F33 Grob Textile AG will emphasize its innovation for the weaving industry, particularly the PosiLeno, a new leno binding system. It is a positively controlled leno device for riderless heald frames, enabling production speed to be doubled. Its characteristics include: •100% higher production speeds on existing weaving machines •Infinite patterning possibilities with leno binding over a wide range of different warp yarns •Reliable binding through positively controlled doup frame •Simple, fast, and cost-effective article change •Optimized shed formation movements insure highest fabric quality while minimizing stresses on warp yarns, heald frames and leno healds. Caption: Grob Textile's PosiLeno Groz-Beckert W1 F33 High-grade Groz-Beckert circular knitting cylinders provide the ideal complement to the company's premium range of needles and system components to create an ideal knitting system from a single, reliable supplier. The company says that it is only with the guarantee of a consistently high standard of component quality and outstanding durability that circular knitting machines are able to reach their full potential for high-performance operation on the factory floor. Customers are offered a selection of 60,000 knitting cylinders and around 50,000 different needles and system parts for the manufacture of textile surfaces. Groz-Beckert will display a knitting cylinder for the most popular single jersey machines in Asia with 34" diameter in gauge E44. Caption: Premium Groz-Beckert circular knitting cylinder H. Stoll W1 E68 Stoll will present a variety of highly productive flat knitting machines as a representative cross section of the CMS program, several software applications as well as the Stoll-multi gauges. Complete garments will Caption: Stoll CMS 822 multi gauge
Machinery Technology be another topic in Shanghai: On display will be a machine for the production of finer complete garments as well as a machine being capable of producing in contrast extremely coarse complete garments with highest output. In addition new pattern possibilities impressively demonstrate the economic efficiency of the complete article production with Stoll-knit and wear. More products will be shown, including machines of intarsia knitting, Stoll Software Solutions and the pattern software M1plus. J. Zimmer W3 H01 J. Zimmer has developed a new textile digital printing technology, namely Colaris. The new printing technology uses fillings with four, six or eight process colors and enables print of any designs and colorway without restriction of specific continuous length with the repeating pattern. Practical unlimited coloration possibilities together with high quality, and in comparison with the current status of technology, significantly increased production capacity. Jakob Müller E3 E33 Jakob Müller offers such solutions as narrow fabric weaving systems, warp crochet knitting systems and label weaving systems, to produce bra-belts, zipper tapes, decoration tapes, bordering tapes, satin tapes, printing tapes, elastic tapes, medical bandages and lace. Jinjiang City Henglian Machine Manufacturing W1 Q31 Based in the Chinese province of Fujian, Jinjiang City Henglian Machine Manufacturing specializes in technologically advanced knitting needles and accessories, it says. Its main products are circular needles, transfer needles, flat needles, hosiery needles, raschel needles and etc. Karl Mayer W2 B90 Two warp knitting machines will be on show at the booth of the Karl Mayer Group. The TM 2, introduced in 2008, is a firm fixture of the Chinese market, the company says. This system complements the TM 3 and expands the TM-series. This year, the TM 2 and TM 3 are both produced by Karl Mayer (China) Ltd. The Seamless Smart machine DJ 4/2 with 44” working width was introduced recently, and is ideal for producing hosiery and seamless garments, the company says. The family of the DJ models will be expanded with an innovative new development in the field of double-bar raschel machines with Jacquard, which offers a variety of performance features. Caption: Karl Mayer's TM 2 tricot machine Kern-Liebers Textile (Taicang) W1 H42 Being a partner of the international knitting industry, Kern-Liebers offers the largest programme of the knitting elements worldwide, with more than 40,000 different types. Approximately 8,000 standard types are available at short notice from stock. These high-quality knitting elements are developed in close cooperation with all major machine builders. The manufacturing programme comprises loop forming elements such as sinkers, jacks, selectors, sliders, wall inserts and precision components for large diameter circular machines, seamless hosiery machines, flat bed machines, single cylinder sock machines, double cylinder sock machines, fully fashioned machines (cotton frames) and weaving looms. L.G.L. Electronics (Hangzhou) W1 R39 / E3 D35 L.G.L. Electronics is a Chinese manufacturer of yarn feeders for both the weaving and knitting sectors. The company will present a number of new products at ShanghaiTex 2009. It has been investing substantially in research and development in order to develop new technical solutions in the fields of weaving and knitting, the company says. Libero Technology Limited W3 F62 Libero Technology Limited will exhibit the Textest Automatic Hydrostatic Head, Tester FX 3000 Hydrotester III, which is used for fast, accurate and automatic determination of the resistance of plastic foils, coated and uncoated fabrics, and non-wovens to water penetration by means of the dynamic test method, the static test method, and the program test method. Additionally, the Textest FX 3100 water vapor transmission rate tester, Easyperm, will be presented. Caption: Textest FX 3000 Hydrotester III Mahlo W2 B64 Apart from many new developments in the field of process automation, Mahlo will present a complete new combination of an automatic straightening machine and a process control system called Orthopac RVMC-12. Caption: Mahlo Orthopac RVMC-12
Machinery Technology The construction of the Orthopac (X) RVMC-12 is very compact and versatile, and can be modified according to customer's requirements in a block building way, the company depicts. It is equipped with very sensitive scanning electronics, which incorporates an intelligent signal processing system and adapts itself to most fabric qualities. Detection and automatic straightening of even most complicated and complex fabric constructions is no issue, Mahlo comments. More systems will also be presented, including a Optipac VMC-12 modular process control system that measures and controls dwell time, residual moisture, exhaust humidity, area weight etc; as well as the Qualiscan QMS-12 quality control system for traversing cross web measurement of area weight, moisture and thickness. Measurement Technology Northwest W3 K15 Measurement Technology Northwest will present a Sweating Guarded Hotplate, often referred to as the "skin model", which produces accurate, repeatable measurements of the thermal resistance and vapor permeability of textiles. This compact system was designed in accordance with ISO 11092 and ASTM F1868 to measure both Rct (thermal) and Ret (vapor) characteristics. Sweating capability is achieved through a unique porous wicking assembly on the surface of the test plate and its outer guard ring, the company mentions. The system includes hotplate with integral sweating surface, variable speed airflow hood, gravity fed fluid supply system, and ambient temperature and humidity probes. An adjustable height airflow hood easily accommodates a variety of sample thickness, and our ThermDAC control and data logging system that makes testing as simple as clicking the mouse and walking away. The company will also present an Epoxy Thermal Manikin (Newton). MHM W3 F43 MHM will present its innovative technologies in the areas of textile screen printing machines and accessories, graphic printing machines and accessories, conveyor dryers, as well as rotary screen printing machines. Ningbo Cixi W2 B46 Ningbo Cixi is specialized in the manufacture and marketing of spare parts for circular, flat and hosiery knitting machinery and looms. Its product portfolio covers zirconia yarn guide, positive feeder, Lycra feeder, needle detector, stop motion, transmission system, Lycra guide roller, ceramic part, yarn creel, transport belt, timing belt, yarn carriers, needle, cam, sinkers, weft feeder and other accessories etc. The company supplies spare parts for circular knitting machines from Europe and America. Caption: Ningbo Cixi's spare parts for circular, flat and hosiery knitting machinery Oerlikon Textile E2 B01 At its 400-square-meter booth, Oerlikon Texile is presenting a number of innovations for users in China. Oerlikon Barmag Oerlikon Barmag will highlight FDY yarn production this year. In addition to highly productive systems for commodity yarns, the company also
Machinery Technology provides solutions for the efficient production of specialties. The company is optimistic with sophisticated downstream processing methods such as warp knitting. Energy-, air- and space-saving concepts are also crucial. In the DTY sector, it highlights the eFK texturing machine, which can be used with the company's energy-saving godet technology from the MPS and COCOON and the ergonomic handling of the FK6-1000. Oerlikon Schlafhorst Oerlikon Schlafhorst supplies a full range of machinery for spinning mills, irrespective of the spinning process. The Autoconer 5 with the innovative PreciFX is used in the field of automatic package winding. In the field of compact yarns as well as of short staple spinning of cotton and long staple spinning of wool, the technological details and advantages of the Zinser CompACT³ system stand out. Last but not least, Oerlikon Schlafhorst offers the entire rotor spinning machine family - Autocoro and BD line - with new performance features for more quality and productivity. Caption: Oerlikon Schlafhorst's Autoconer 5 Oerlikon Neumag Oerlikon Neumag offers a comprehensive portfolio with turnkey solutions for the production of airlaid and spunbond webs for hygienic, medical, filtering and automotive purposes among other things. The range comprises package solutions for spunbond webs, carded webs and airlaid products as well as the single technologies meltblown, carding, crosslapping, needling, aerodynamic carding and festooning. On the other hand, it is possible to combine different methods for developing innovative nonwoven products and processes and for opening up new markets. Furthermore, visitors of the Shanghaitex exhibition will be able to discuss the latest developments for BCF yarn and synthetic staple fiber plants at the booth, Oerlikon Neumag says. Oerlikon Saurer Oerlikon Saurer provides embroidery and twisting systems. In the embroidery sector, the product lines Saurer and Melco offer shuttle embroidering machines and multi-head machines. In the twisting sector, the Allma and Volkmann brands are known in the segments of clothing staple, carpet yarn, tyre cord, industrial and glass yarns. RITM E1 C50 RITM (previously known under the brands Verdol, ICBT and Rieter FYT) will exhibit a variety of textile machinery in Shanghai. In the area of fine count processing, RITM offers a wide range on the market of twisting machines for embroidery and sewing thread applications; single and double covering machines for hosiery, stockings, sportswear and technical yarns; air covering machines for hosiery, stockings and sportswear; and combined machines to twist and shrink nylon yarn through thermal treatment. In the sector of industrial yarns, RITM will emphasize the UT 50 machine, appreciated for its flexibility and for the quality of yarn and package produced, as well as the UTC 60 machine that brings more flexibility with the direct cabling equipments. Glass yarns is a field of highlight for RITM this year, as it will showcase its latest improvements, such as new motorized spindles; new motor-creels; improved doffing time; reduced chain yarn breaks and yarn external pollution; and a "Quick UNIX" operating system. In addition to the M.U.S.T. monitoring unit system for textile machinery, the company will also present technologies in the aspects of tire cord and carpet yarns. Caption: The RITM UT 50 machine Santex (Shanghai) Textile Machinery W3 G12 Santex (Shanghai) Textile Machinery will show a number of machinery: • Santastretch Plus, which is a continuous hydroextracting, overstretching and wet compacting machine for tubular knitted fabrics; • Santaspread, a steaming and compacting calendar machine for tubular knitted fabrics; • Santacompact CK, a leveling, steaming and compacting calendar machine for open width knitted fabrics; • Santashrink Progress, which is tensionless shrinking and relax drying machine for knitted and woven fabrics; • Santabrush, a surface treatment machine for knitted and woven fabrics; • SM6 sueding machines for knitted and woven fabrics; • Plurima, a dry and wet sueding machine for warp knitted and woven fabrics; and • Cavitec coating and laminating machine for technical textiles. Savio E1 B35 Savio will be present in Shanghai displaying two machines especially studied for the Chinese market requirements. Savio XCL is an automatic winder, completely assembled by Shandong Istma Textile Machinery (off shore assembling company of Savio Macchine Tessili). It is particularly designed for the local market in order to meet the high yarn quality demand together with high production output, reduced energy consumption, maintenance and investment. This winder with manual bobbins feeding and manual package doffing, with the proper technical specifications studied for the
Machinery Technology the Chinese market, represents the best optimized investment. All the parameters of the winding process are controlled by the main PC, as well as by the single head self-diagnosis monitoring. High productivity together with yarn and package quality level can be obtained, thanks to the flexible and intelligent cycle in addition to the controlled and customized dynamic acceleration. The direct drive of the moving parts and the specially designed suction fan allow reduced energy consumption, according to Savio. Savio will also demonstrate the Geminis S, which is offered in different models, diversified by spindle gauge and dimension in order to match all market requests, from the finest yarns count to the carpet yarns with any type of material and blends: four spindle types and four spindle gauges are available. Particular care is given to the spindle design and drive, in order to optimize the feeding weight and minimize the energy consumption. Yarn path geometry and relevant parts are particularly polished to ensure the best yarn quality; pneumatic threading (standard feature) and the removable balloon basket make Geminis S a flexible machine. Waxing Device, axial displacement, yarn feelers locking device and inverter on spindles motor represent the additional optionals available. Aiming at the world wide markets, Geminis S is also offered with "Duo-Pot", with elastomeric yarn technology, and with machine length up to 360 spindles and double head stock. Caption: Savio XCL Schmidt W2 B76 Established in 1945, Schmidt company says it is the first company to achieve the DIN EN ISO9001 international certification in tension metre industry and it has rich experience in the field of tension metre. Both German technology and years of experience in tension measuring help Schmidt to improve quality and efficiency and higher profitability of its customers, the company says. SDL Atlas W3 B51 SDL Atlas will participate at the ShanghaiTex 2009 this year, presenting a broad range of textile testing products, supplies, consumables, and services available from a single source. On display include a digital Elmendorf Tearing Tester complete with pendulum and calibration weights, as well as Atlas Ci3000+ system to conduct weathering and lightfastness testing. Caption: Ci3000+ system of SDL Atlas Setex Schermuly Textile Computer W3 C04 Setex will bring to ShanghaiTex 2009 the Secom controller family with enhanced features for better productivity.
Machinery Technology The task for the new family was to create a "universal" controller, which is easy-to-use and can release the features needed for the task. Special focus was placed on productivity in today’s complex production environments. For Setex OrgaTEX users, more benefits are revealed on the controller, including reduced downtime cost, user management with RFID technology, graphical stop reasons tracking, and paperless workflow. To save the environment, the Secom controllers are manufactured against RoHS (restriction of Hazardous substances) conformity, Setex says. Caption: Secom controller of Setex Shanghai Yusheng Knitting Needle W2 B47 Shanghai Yusheng Knitting Needle, a Chinese supplier of knitting needles, will display a wide range of knitting needles for textile mechanisms as well as metal fittings. Its leading products are metal and plastic guide needle blocks, dispart needle blocks, guide needles, sinkers; Raschel compound needles, Raschel core needles, Raschel jacquard needles, Raschel inset needles; trolley needles, pipe needles, chiffon needles, electron needles, accessories including steel needles, crochet hook, fishing needles, repair needles; and metals punch piece etc. Shanghai Zhongjian Textile Machinery E4 B28 Shanghai Zhongjian Textile Machinery will present a number of innovative label weaving machines, e.g. models ZJSB-120E58 and ZJSB-160E58, which are designed to produce labels, ties and other narrow weaving fabric products. Caption: Label weaving machine of Shanghai Zhongjian Shima Seiki W1 B01 Shima Seiki will exhibit its line of advanced computerized flat knitting machines. On display will be a representative cross-section of its technology, ranging from SSG- and SIG- series conventional shaping machines to its latest Mach2-series high-spec WholeGarment knitting machines. With these products, the company will present a variety of solutions for maintaining success and profitability for its customers while enduring the current economic crisis. The latest offering from Shima Seiki, Mach2X is arguably the most advanced computerized flat knitting machine to date, the company comments. What sets the Mach2X apart is its speed and productivity. Maximum knitting speed is increased to 1.6m/sec, it says. The new R2Carriage system permits quicker carriage returns for higher efficiency per knitted course. New Split Stitch technique allows efficient knitting by eliminating empty courses. On the 15L gauge machine a special large-hook version of the SlideNeedle is used for knitting 12-gauge fabrics at 15-gauge needle pitch for even higher productivity. These improvements combine to yield more than twice as much productivity than before. With this increase in productivity, Shima Seiki can finally provide WholeGarment production that is capable of supporting China’s manufacturing base, according to Shima Seiki. Caption: Shima Seiki, Mach2X WholeGarment knitting machine Signal W1 Q43 Signal, an Italian producer of electronic devices for industrial applications, textile machines, automotive special vehicles and vending automation, will introduce its controller with new performance for circular textile machines. Moreover, the company produces different types of electronic controllers for flat knitting machines, sewing machines, circular knitting and weaving machines. The final products are electronic boards and finished equipments, complete with electronic and electromechanical parts, cables, motors and needle selection groups. Thanks to the innovative software and hardware technology adopted, the controllers are capable of powerful performances, including graphic user interface and network or WI-FI connectivity for data collection, programs and patterns transmission, diagnostic and maintenance through the Internet, the company says. Steiger W1 C10 As the latest machine made by Steiger, the Libra system derives its name from Greek mythology and means balance. Besides all other important elements of the Libra were already applied on the previous models (Aries), Libra enjoys the brand new developments: motorised yarn-carriers, shortened time of carriage reversal, and the introduction the Free Gauge concept, the company describes. Libra 3.130 is the latest technology machine concept for smallest dimensions and greatest versatility with motorized yarn feeders. According to Steiger, the new concept of the Libra ensures Caption: Libra system of Steiger
Machinery Technology higher profits. The new Libra also features light appearance, uses of new technologies and new materials. Stork Prints W3 H07 Stork Prints, a supplier of rotary screen printing, will showcase its extensive rotary screen consumables program, direct laser engraving and digital printing. The company offers a comprehensive consumables program of screens and lacquers. Specially suited for Stork's printing systems are the company's program of nickel rotary screens, which offer guaranteed stability and smooth printing results. The screens offer compatibility with all paste types, and are suited to achieve high quality results with all possible textile applications, in accordance with Stork Prints. Its program of special screens has proved to be popular with textile printers, thanks to the screens' reputation for high performance, and ability to achieve fine detail, even with large paste particles. The special screens are commonly used to create effects such as glitter and full-surface printing. For coating, it also offers a choice of screens that allow the desired yield values to be precisely achieved for each specific application. A range of screens is also especially available for transfer printing, wall cover printing and various coating applications such as interlining or nonwovens, Stork Prints says. Stork Prints also provides digital engraving technologies, such as laser engraving systems, offering a faster, more efficient, high quality, and eco-friendly approach to imaging. Caption: Engraved rotary printing screen of Stork Prints Tanatex Chemicals W3 B23 Tanatex Chemicals will provide its new and innovative products to the Chinese users. Edolan DSR (Dry Soil Release) is a high performance repellent agent with excellent water- and oil-repellent values and pronounced dry soil release properties to achieve easy-cleaning effects or to create easy-cleaning materials for outdoor exposure. It also prevents dirt to adhere to the exposed surface and simplifies the removal of dirt by spraying with water or rain. It has been especially designed for - and has good performance on (non-) coated PES material for outdoor applications like awnings, covers and tents. It is economical in comparison with other repellent agents, on average half the amount is necessary to achieve the desired repellency values. The company will also present such products as Tanacid ADP, Levegal PL and Levegal BLD polyester levelling, synchronizing and dispersing agents, as well as Logic Dyeing Concept to process cotton knit goods and their blends. Tong Geng Enterprise and Hangzhou Donglin W3 F38 Tong Geng Enterprise and Hangzhou Donglin will exhibit the ROR high-temperature and high-pressure fabric dyeing machine. The system features low tension, low liquor ratio, low spray pressure, large flow quantity and high dyeing levelness. It maintains regualar fabric transport in the storage section, with no fuzz, no rolling selvedge, no crease mark and no entwist. It is suitable for various kinds of knitted and woven fabric. It has easy operation and widely applicability, according to Tong Geng Enterprise and Hangzhou Donglin. Caption: ROR fabric dyeing machine of Tong Geng Uster E2 B85 Whether the requirement is to improve consistency of quality, increasing efficiency of the mill operation or optimizing cost of manufacturing, Uster will support the Chinese industry with know-how and experience that the company has gained by being involved in global operations over 60 years, the company explains. Uster has a full range of instruments that allow spinning mills to control and analyze the quality, process and cost of their operation. With a series of products made for the Chinese market only, Uster has introduced products that are easy to operate and affordable for a wider range of clients in China. This will make upgrading decisions in their quality control instrumentation easier. Also Uster will be launching new products that are specifically targeted to upgrade Chinese operations with an investment level that will pay back in term of increased efficiency, reduced cost of operation or improved quality. Upgrading in terms of mill operation management is also an important factor to compete with global suppliers in a global market. Uster will be supporting the management level of spinning mills with the series of Expert systems, which can allow users to get Caption: Uster ME 100 tester
Material Technology Versatile natural fibers fulfill varied market needs As alternatives to the use of petrochemical resources are being sought, the benefits of natural fibres have come under the spotlight in the global textile industry, Adrian Wilson reports Rising sales of organic cotton The economic downturn will not prevent the global retail sales of organic cotton from reaching US$4 billion in 2009 - reflecting a year-on-year growth of 24%, according to Texas-based non-profit organisation, the Organic Exchange. This is a very positive story for 2009, which the United Nations General Assembly has proclaimed the International Year of Natural Fibres. In 2008, global retail sales of organic cotton products were worth an estimated US$3.2 billion – up 63% on 2007, but slightly lower than anticipated. The supply of organic cotton fibre continues to grow, from 57,931 million tonnes in the 2006/07 crop year to 145,865 million tonnes for the 2007/08, mainly due to increased production in India and Syria. The Organic Exchange says that during the past year, certified organic cotton fibre supplies have grown by 95%, significantly higher than annual growth rates of 45% in 2006 and 53% in 2007. The 10 brands and retailers with the largest organic cotton programmes in 2008 were Wal-Mart, C&A, Nike, H&M, Zara, Anvil, Coop Switzerland, Pottery Barn, Greensource, and Hess Natur. Organic cotton, however, still represents less than 1% of the total cotton produced worldwide, and in the larger scheme of things cotton prices have fallen around 43% in the past year, with concern that the global slowdown would slash demand. In the year to July 2009, global demand will total 111.1 million bales (each containing 175kg of cotton) - down 9.5% from last year, according to the US Department of Agriculture. Global cotton production has consequently fallen by about 880,000 bales, due to reduced production in the key manufacturing countries of China, India, Pakistan and Brazil. There are signs, though, the worst may now be over, most notably for India, which shipped just 800,000 bales of cotton between September 2008 and March 2009, down from six million bales in the comparative period in 2007-2008. Private textile mills are now said to be buying again in India as the demand for cotton yarn and garments - both for the domestic market and export - gathers momentum again. By March this year, the price of cotton began climbing back, and a fall in the strength of India’s rupee is also expected to boost export prospects for Indian cotton in the next few months. Cotton accounts for roughly 80% of all natural fibres consumed, representing hundreds of billions of dollars of economic activity and employing hundreds of millions of people. In promoting US-produced cotton, the Cotton Council International (CCI) points out that it achieves the correct balance between conservation of the environment, economic growth and corporate social responsibility. The Bremen Cotton Exchange confirmed that the US raw cotton harvested in 2008/2009 is totally free from Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Product Class 1 pesticide residues and heavy metals, making it suitable for textiles and textile toys for babies and small children as well as underclothes and bedding. Cotton, however, still remains generally favoured by consumers, and modern technology is now minimising the environmental impact of its production in the USA, according to the CCI. US farming with modern techniques means there is now less land, water and energy use, less soil erosion and reduced pesticide application per unit output, the organisation points out. Renewable production annually already saves 1.6 billion litres of tractor fuel, 907 million metric tonnes of US soil, and reduces greenhouse CO2 emissions the equivalent to removing over 27,000 cars from the road. US cotton production uses a small amount of pesticides compared with other crops, the CCI claims. Caption: Cotton remains an important crop in the US agricultural sector
Material Technology However, the heavily-subsidised US cotton industry continues to be criticised by other producer countries. Ghulam Rabbani, for example, who is a senior member of the Pakistan Yarn Merchant Association (PYMA), has recently said it is the reason for lower production in Pakistan, India and China in 2008/2009. "Around US$550 billion is still allocated for subsidies to US agriculture, and the majority of that figure for cotton growers," he said. "Because of the subsidies, US farmers are able to sell their cotton crop at lower rates. The United States was committed to a deal on cotton in the long-running Doha trade talks, but has not yet reached an agreement. Major cotton producers are facing hardships due to the USA's stubborn attitude towards not cutting subsidies." Premium wool offers improved properties Meanwhile, wool may only account for a fraction of the natural fibres market, but it is a premium-priced product with a range of well-known benefits. Sunrise Ultra wool, manufactured by H. Dawson of Bradford in the UK, is being actively promoted for use in, among other areas, bedding products. Sunrise Ultra benefits from a new treatment without chlorination, which the company has developed, resulting in machine-washable, easy-to-care ultra bulk wools. The process is also said to make the wool extremely clean and hygienic, with a fresh, clean smell, and its employment can be certified to Oeko-Tex Standard Product Class 1 for use for babies, with full traceability provided. Van Riel Eco of Belgium has introduced a wool process without the use of chlorine, and in fact, the company's method of shrink-proofing wool is both odourless and dust-free, as well as being completely free of hazardous chemicals, chlorines, enzymes or ozone. Nano-gold merino under development Nanotechnology is applied in natural fibers as well. Textiles employing nanosize gold in different colours within Merino wool fibres, as colourfast colourants, have been developed at the Victoria University of Wellington in New Zealand. They were presented at the Innovations in Textiles conference held at the Royal College of Physicians in London, UK, from March 18-19 by Professor James H. Johnston. The technology has been developed and progressed successfully to a small pilot scale operation with the production of demonstration textiles and is now being commercialised, he said. When the particle sizes of gold and silver are reduced to dimensions of up to a few tens of nanometres, they exhibit surface plasmon resonance effects, which give rise to a variety of colours depending on the size and shape of the nanoparticles. Spherical gold particles of about 10-20 nm in size are red. As the particle size increases to about 50-70 nm, the colour progressively shifts through the visible spectrum to violet, providing a range of colours. Gold, in its yellow metallic form, occupies a premier position in the world economy, representing high value and quality. Fine Merino wool commands a premier position in high quality fabrics, textiles and fashions. "We have captured the exciting and unique opportunity whereby the prestige and high value of gold is linked directly to high quality wool fibre, using novel nanoscience and technology to provide a new suite of goldwool products for use in high quality fashion apparel, textiles and carpet," said Prof Johnston. "Nanogold exhibits bacterio-static, anti-microbial properties, as well as anti-static properties, both of which are imparted to the respective wool products." The nanogold colourants are chemically bound to the sulphur of the wool proteins in the cuticle and the fibre, providing excellent rub and wash fastness. They also do not fade or denature in light. "Our novel gold-wool technology and products open up new international business opportunities in the high end market for fashion apparel, luxury textiles and carpets," Prof Johnston concluded. Exploring potentials of flax and hemp An area of the natural fibres market, sometimes overlooked, is that of linen, flax and hemp. At the JEC Composites show held in Paris, France, from March 24-26, the European Confederation of Flax and Hemp (CELC) reported that 190,000 tonnes of flax fibre were grown in Europe last year, in addition to a further 30,000 tonnes of hemp. The countries it is grown in are primarily France, Belgium and The Netherlands. CELC with around 10,000 member companies in 14 countries was actively promoting the use of these fibres in technical textiles and says that already, around 10% of production (or 22,000 tonnes) is going into products such as car door interiors and under hood insulation, building insulation, packaging and sports equipment. Lastly, CELC lists the key ecological advantages of the production of these bast fibres as: •Using little energy in production •Natural and mechanical production (retting and scutching) •Little or no plant care required •No need for irrigation •Very low greenhouse gas production •Virtually no CO2 emissions. Caption: CELC promoted the use of flax and hemp in technical textiles at the recent JEC Composites show in Paris
Chemicals & Auxiliaries Greener offerings embraced in dye and chemical market Ecology and sustainability are buzzwords framing the next-generation approach to dyestuff / chemical finish manufacture, application and performance, Ian Holme writes Over the last year, dyemakers and chemical manufacturers have faced mounting challenges because of the increasing costs for raw materials, utilities, labour and transportation. Because of the economic downturn in the textile and clothing industries, dyestuff inventories have built up and consequently dyemaking plants have adopted shorter working time. Restructuring their production capabilities may lead to some dyestuff / chemical manufacturing plants in Western Europe being closed as manufacturers concentrate on production in Asian countries where the majority of textiles are manufactured. Nevertheless, all dyemakers are still conducting research into novel dyes that have improved eco-credentials. Ecology and sustainability are buzzwords that frame the global approach to dyestuff / chemical finish manufacture, application and performance. With the REACH Regulation on the registration, evaluation and authorisation of chemicals, the European Union aims to protect human health and the environment when using chemical substances. Major companies have completed the pre-registration step, which is the precondition for manufacturing chemicals in Europe or importing them into the European Union in the future. The next phase of the REACH Regulation compliance process is the registration of the chemicals based upon their hazard potential and the amount produced or imported. New fibre developments clearly will impact upon research and development trends in dye manufacture and application technology. DyStar and BASF SE have recently signed a cooperation agreement on joint research and development aimed at improving the dyeing of textile polyamide fibres. BASF will develop new fibre polymers with improved dye absorption within its Ultramid product line to allow the use of dyes that achieve high levels of wet fastness and light fastness as well as good fixation properties. New dyes used for polyamide and automobiles DyStar has developed a complete range of reactive dyes for polyamide fibres, namely their Telon RN dyes, which include a three colour combination offering good compatibility together with very high colour fastness performance, e.g. high-end articles that require colour fastness to laundering at temperatures up to 95°C and multiple wash cycles at high temperatures. The Telon RN reactive dye range allows brilliant, deep colours to be achieved, with DyStar's well-established Isolan NHF-S and Telon M dyes complementing the range and fulfilling all the standard colour fastness requirements made by leading retailers. Teijin has high hopes for its Purity polyester polymer, which does not use antimony or other heavy metals as polymerisation catalysts. By 2015, Teijin is aiming to make their Purity polyester polymer account for 10% of global polyester polymer production - both for fibres and polyester bottle resin. Thus, dyed Purity-based polyester fibres should offer a better ecological profile. Clariant have introduced a new addition to their Foron AS disperse dye range for automotive / home textiles containing polyester fibres. Designed for the highest standards of light and hot light fastness Foron Black AS-3LF is a successor to Foron Black AS-LF. The new dye, Foron Black AS-3LF, is some 30% stronger than Foron Black AS-LF and provides good build-up properties. It provides a neutral shade under different light sources and exhibits low colour fading upon exposure to light. Foron Black AS-3LF offers excellent colour fastness to sublimation (up to 30 seconds at 180°C), can be combined with Clariant's Fadex UV-absorbers, and complies with all the common automotive light fastness standards. Foron Dark Blue S-WF from Clariant is a new disperse dye ideally suited for polyester / cotton blend dyeing. It gives an improved reserve on cotton compared with Foron Navy S-WF. Covering a current colour spectrum matching gap Foron Dark Blue S-WF is suitable for both exhaust and continuous (SWIFT) applications. Caption: Greener textile dyes and chemicals are increasingly preferred (Photo: Clariant)
Chemicals & Auxiliaries It exhibits excellent exhaust behaviour, very high colour fastness to sublimation and is engineered as a base element for dark blue and navy shades. DyStar ensures, through its econfidence commitment, that their high quality dyes are produced via clean manufacturing processes and have a sound eco profile. In this way DyStar provides clean, effective and reliable dyes for dyeing textile materials. Their Dianix disperse dye range is extensive and has been broken down into logical groupings according to dye application and performance characteristics. Strict quality control over production and ecological issues thus ensure that DyStar offers a total solution for polyester dyeing. Under the econfidence brand, the company offers Dianix dyes entailing such ecology benefits as no MAK amines, no allergenic disperse dyes, and no restricted polychlorinated aromatic compounds above accepted levels. It has also introduced two new Dianix XF disperse dyes, namely Dianix Navy XF-AR and Dianix Black XF-AR based upon novel molecular structures that deliver excellent dyebath stability as well as good wet fastness levels. Designed for the leading sportswear brands and retailers the performance / ecology properties of the two new Dianix XF dyes meet the most exacting colour fastness and productivity requirements. DyStar's market-leading Dianix SF red disperse dyes are now complemented by Dianix Golden Yellow SF and Dianix Blue SF, which can be used to provide deep ternary combination shades with the highest levels of colour fastness on polyester. Dianix Yellow Brown S-4R 150% is described as "Eco compliant by design" and provides a cost-effective alternative to CI Disperse Orange 30 with a clean eco profile. Dianix Yellow Brown S-4R 150% provides a similar shade and flare to CI Disperse Orange 30 but has a significantly better wet fastness profile combined with good build up on standard polyester and microfibres. Suitable for eco clearing Dianix Yellow Brown S-4R 150% gives excellent performance on polyester microfibre and polyester / elastane blends. There is now a growing demand for DyStar's Optidye PESoptimised dyeing program for polyester using Dianix disperse dyes and DyStar's Sera process auxiliaries to give increased productivity as well as process savings. Using a scour / dyeing process with Optidye PES and optimising the reduction clearing stage is claimed to provide the following advantages: Process savings benefits •43% electricity •46% steam •50% water •39% process time •38% cost in total Productivity benefits •58% productivity increase •higher right-first-time dyeing performance achieved using the Optidye PES program A lower environmental impact in reduction clearing under alkaline conditions is achieved using DyStar's Sera Con P-RCN with caustic soda, or Sera Con P-ACT in acid reduction clearing at pH 3.5-4 compared with traditional sodium dithionite (hydrosulphite) reduction clearing systems. DyStar also developed a new brilliant red reactive dye as extension of their Levafix CA range, namely Levafix Brilliant Red CA. Novel shades achieved in various garment Huntsman Textile Effects have introduced Novacron Navy C-BN and Novacron Navy FN-BN reactive dyes using a new chemistry to achieve dark and navy shades on knitted fabrics, shirting, towelling and bedding. These novel dyes give excellent reproducible results in pad-batch, continuous and exhaust dyeing applications. These dyes give high tinctorial strength and build-up combined with outstanding colour fastness, high fixation and a good washing-off profile. Novacron Navy C-BN and Novacron Navy FN-BN are fully compatible with the existing Novacron C and Novacron FN dye ranges and are suitable for dyeing all types of cellulosic fibres. Their application contributes towards considerable savings in water, energy and labour. Nuva 1910 liquid oil and water repellent finish for cotton and polyamide-based fabrics has been developed by Clariant from fluorocarbon technology, together with a polyamide-based cationic copolymer to significantly improve the efficiency of the fluorocarbon finish. Nuva 1910 liquid has good chemical compatibility and can be used successfully with selected flame retardants. Hydroperm ECO liq from Clariant is designed for use with polyester fabrics. It is a formaldehyde-free hydrophilic finish with good softening properties to provide moisture management in shirtings, outdoor clothing and sportswear by significantly improving transport of moisture, wicking and surface evaporation. Static generation in polyester fabrics can be decreased by Sarex's new antistatic finish termed Fabfeel Conc. This imparts hydrophilic properties to treated fabrics promoting levels of wearer comfort. Sarex (India) has also introduced Coolcot-Dry for improved absorbency and moisture management in polyester and polyester blend fabrics. Key points •Dye and chemical makers completed the pre-registered in accordance to the REACH Regulation, and they are now working to go into the phase of registering chemicals on the basis of their hazard potential and the amount produced or imported. •Reactive and disperse dyes are two areas of greener solutions being intensely researched for varied applications on polyamide fibers, home and automotive textiles etc. •The commitment in clean manufacturing processes is also an integral part of true greener solutions of dyes and chemicals.
Nonwovens/Specialty Textiles Latest material advances showcased at ISPO Munich Specialty textile developers recently manifested some exciting material advances for winter sports that can give an escalated comfort level, accelerate the blood flow through compressive fabrics and more, observes Adrian Wilson Multi-component technical textiles were very prominent at ISPO - the world's largest sporting goods trade show, which was held for the 69th time in Munich earlier this year. The European active sports market that the ISPO show serves is all about performance - and often at extremes, both in terms of bodily exertion and climatic conditions. This demands the very best in all equipment, including technical textiles, and the sector has a clientele that is still willing to pay extremely high prices, too. There was little sign of any global credit crunch at the 2009 ISPO sports and plenty of evidence that consumers are willing to pay a premium for technical garments with true performance properties. This has been helped by the fact that Europe had fantastic snow this winter and many companies reported significantly increased 2008 sales, bolstered by both last year's Beijing Olympics and the Euro 2008 football championships held in Austria and Switzerland. During 2008, the overall sales of speciality European sports retailers climbed to 37.5 billion euros compared to 37 billion euros in 2007, according to Fedas, the European federation of sporting goods retailers, though other forecasts put sales even higher. WL Gore intensively researches for improved comfort One of the leaders in advanced performance sportswear is WL Gore, which at ISPO introduced products based on new lamination technology as an extension of its Comfort Mapping concept introduced a couple of years ago. By employing combinations of Gore-Tex laminates in a single garment, Comfort Mapping manages various parts of the body differently - like a map with several different climatic zones. With its latest lamination method, a choice of lining materials with different characteristics can now be bonded to the Gore-Tex laminate after the main lamination process, offering manufacturers new options for the design of their garments. The result is that jackets, for instance, not only look better, but also address the needs of the various climatic zones of the body more specifically and efficiently, with breathability, wearer comfort, heat regulation and/or fit streamlined where it makes a difference. It's on the inside that these latest Gore jackets are more complex. High-performance lining materials differ in terms of insulation, antibacterial properties, breathability and texture against the skin. Once selected, the outer and inner parts of the jacket can both durably bonded together in Gore's production plants using the new lamination technology. "With the latest Comfort Mapping technology it's possible to satisfy the desire of most end-users for a lightweight, less bulky, two-layer jacket which offers the function of a three-layer garment," said Jürgen Schreiner, who is responsible for the new technology at Gore. "A very lightweight Gore-Tex laminate can be simply equipped with a highly insulating panel of down - something that was previously impossible. Striking the right balance between reduced weight and warmth in one product becomes relatively easy thanks to this technology." The new Comfort Mapping technology is being offered for two Gore-Tex product classes - Soft Shells, for softer and warmer outdoor and snow wear when freedom of movement is called for, and Performance Shells, for all kinds of outdoor and leisure time activities, offering enhanced wearer comfort and durable protection from wind and rain. Adidas, Adidas Porsche Design, Bailo, Gore Running Wear, Gore Bike Wear, Mammut, The North Face, Rossignol, Schöffel, Scott and Spyder are all introducing this new technology in their collections for winter 2009/2010. At the heart of WL Gore's proprietary processes for fabric laminates, in addition to products for Caption: Example of Gore's latest Comfort Mapping advanced lamination technology
Nonwovens/Specialty Textiles electronic signal transmission, medical implants and membranes, filtration and sealant products, is the fluorocarbon-based polymer PTFE. Gore holds more than 2,000 patents worldwide in respect of this one polymer. Still family owned, the company is headquartered in Newark, Delaware, USA, and employs approximately 8,000 people at 45 facilities throughout the world. Founded in 1958, it now has annual sales of about US$2 billion, with manufacturing operations in the US, Germany, Scotland, Japan, and China. Constructing multi-layer fabrics for extreme sports players Zimtstern and Sympatex Technologies also introduced a highly functional three-layer laminate designed especially for the demands of modern snowboarding sports. Combining an extremely sturdy 6.6 nylon material for the exterior layer and Sympatex higH2Out technology, the ideal blend of heavy-duty work wear and the temperature control required in active sports is said to have been realised in Zimtstern's new DLX range. The soft inner lining, printed with a classic plaid pattern, is made from 100% recycled polyester and is said to offer outstanding absorbency. Combined with the hydrophilic, PTFE-free Sympatex membrane it can rapidly transport perspiration from the inside to the outside of the garment. Sympatex higH2Out material can withstand a 20,000 mm head of water in a water pressure test of 20,000 g/m²/24h. The outer layer's natural look is achieved by a newly developed wax finishing process, which brings to mind classic hunting and equestrian clothing. At the same time, a completely PFOS and PFOA-free surface protects the fabric from water and dirt. Caption: Zimtstern's new DLX range combines nylon 6.6 and Sympatex higH2Out technology Engineered gradient compression points to future Meanwhile, the future of technical sports wear is in engineered gradient compression, according to Australian company Skins, whose BioAcceleration Technology is designed to capitalise on its benefits in a range of tops amd leggings. When compression is engineered to apply a balanced and accurate surface pressure over specific body parts, it triggers an acceleration of blood flow. This increases oxygen delivery to working muscles to enhance their performance. The circulation improvements also help the body to eliminate lactic acid and other metabolic wastes. The combination of these effects allows the body to work at a higher rate for longer. The improved oxygenation is most marked in recovery from exercise. As a result, muscle repair is accelerated, with a greater effect if next-to-body Skins garments are worn for longer. Studies on medical bandaging have also demonstrated that compression supports the sensorimotor system and this has been applied to the latest sports socks introduced by German company CEP, which employs a "cell-active" fibre called CellTex in its products. Pressure from the outside - such as that from compression sportswear and socks - activates the nerve tracts of the musculature and increases the speed of contraction of participating muscles. This leads to a better co-ordination during complex movements. While running on uneven ground in forests, for example, a shorter reaction time can prevent painful ankle twists. Further protection in CEP's sports socks is provided by an additional enforcement in the Achilles tendon which can, for instance, prevent irritated tendons. Padded foot soles cushion and prevent irritations caused by pressure spots, while ventilation channels ensure a pleasant foot climate in CEP's performance socks. CellTex fibre is said to physiologically activate skin and muscle cells, providing a comfortable, skin sympathetic and climate-regulating wear. Thanks to the 3D fit, the socks also adjust to the anatomy of the foot and the calf. Caption: CEP graphic illustrating the benefits of compression on the body's circulation Advanced materials absorb shock UK company d3o introduced new knitted core base layers for skiing and snowboarding at ISPO - with its intelligent shock absorption technology already integrated into them. D3o material is comprised of intelligent molecules which flow with natural movement, but on shock, simply lock together to provide a protective barrier. This is like the way natural joints in the human body– such as the knees - are designed to work when subject to shock impact. The molecules within d3o flow past each other at low rates of movement when a body is moving naturally, but when subject to an impact that requires them to move very quickly, they instantaneously link with each other to form a protective barrier.
Nonwovens/Specialty Textiles As soon as the impact has passed, they immediately unlock to provide flow and normal flexibility. This all happens in less than a thousandth of a second, and the faster they are impacted the more quickly they react. New seamless knitted compression base layer d3o garments are available in polypropylene and polyamide, as well as polypropylene and polyester blends. "In addition to making a massive noise about our partners' products with our extensive marketing support, we are now taking away the hassles of development and manufacturing from them as well,” said the company's marketing manager, Charlotte Gough.“We have formed a relationship with a manufacturer in Asia to develop this solution, in order to overcome the minor integration and production problems for brands who do not make their own base layers previously, or haven't integrated d3o into their products before." The company continues to develop its material. D3o Flo, which will be introduced before the end of 2009, is said to be lighter, softer and more flexible than the d3o Shock product currently manufactured, and also to be even more effective in terms of shock absorption. Companies featuring d3o technology at ISPO included Berghaus, Black Diamond, Head, Helly Hansen Hestra, Ignite RED, Schoeffel, Sessions and Spyder. Caption: Charlotte Gough exhibits extraordianry properties of D3o's shock absorption technology Seamless apparel attract sports lovers Making its debut at this year's ISPO show was Vital Eco-wear, with a new range of seamless garments aimed at the more mature person. Founder and CEO of the company Talya Hanan has drawn on her many years of experience in the industry - working with Israel's Tefron and Nike Pro, and later as a consultant to mills as far afield as Poland, Turkey and China - to select the most suitable functional fibres and construction techniques for fit-for-purpose sportswear. Of the company's four product lines, Yoga & More garments are made from Eco-Deosoft, a very soft fabric containing natural bamboo fibres with anti-bacterial properties, while the fibers' micro-gaps let the skin breath. Eco-Comformance, the fabric employed in the company's Workout & Fitness range consists of a blend of bamboo, micro-polypropylene and elastane while the Outdoor Action range is made of Eco-Aerodry, a fabric based on recycled materials, using Cocona's activated carbon fibre derived from coconut shells. This gives the fabric high performance properties including wicking moisture away from the skin for quick evapouration on the fabric's surface, odour absorption, and even natural UV protection. For its Winter Sports range, the company developed Eco-Thermal, a fabric consisting of BeCool temperature regulating polyamide, with polypropylene and elastane. Aside from its advanced temperature regulating properties to keeping the body dry and warm, Winter Sports garments include seamlessly built-in areas of extra protection and 3D stretch and mesh areas for advanced ventilation. Caption: Pictured is the Vital Eco-wear team at ISPO 2009, from left to right, Bernadette Prinz, Talya Hanan and Derry Hanan
China Focus Global textile trade affected by new regulations Chinese textile trade researcher, Xie Qiuqi, observes that more technical barriers to trade were announced last year and their impacts are expected to be more visible this year More technical trade barriers have shown up in the international scene these couple of years. About 1,470 notifications relating to technical barriers to trade were announced last year, up 21.59% from the previous year. Of which, 39 reports affected textile and leather products, and another 14 were related to the garment sector, up 30% and 7.69% respectively from the previous year. Chinese enterprises were advised to pay more attention to the growing concerns of eco-friendly or green textiles among developed countries and the related information. Due to the mounting trade regulations and global economic downturn, they are also advised to diversify markets and consider both overseas and domestic markets. Trade environment in 2008 Following the outbreak of the global financial crisis, the international community have put forward a series of economic packages to save their home countries from the risk of deep economic recession. On the other hand, trade regulations have also been introduced. Twenty-six out of the 53 reports related to textiles and garment were released by Rumania, making up 49.06% of the world's total last year. Rumania is itself a leading textile and apparel exporting country in East Europe, and the related trade between China is small. Its trade regulation thus does not affect China much. Trade regulations established by such trade partners as USA, Germany, the Netherlands and Thailand last year have more significance to Chinese exports. The US The US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) released the Circular G/TBT/N/USA/388 concerning rules and regulations of Textile Fibre Products Identification Act through the WTO Secretariat in April 2008. It was the only circular released by the US authorities last year, affecting the export of China's polyester staple fiber and other products to the US. Polyester staple fiber is one of the major textile exports in the provinces of Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Ningbo alone exported such fibers worth US$85.34 million in 2007. Additionally, the United States International Trade Commission (USITC) announced that adult clothing products imported into the country must also meet the requirements for safety performance initially imposed on garment of baby and kids under the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act. Caption: USITC regulates safety performance of adult clothing more strictly last year Germany and the Netherlands Last year, Germany released the act concerning the prohibition of the importation, processing and marketing of products derived from seals (G/TBT/N/DEU/5), whereas the Netherlands notified the act banning fur animal farming (G/TBT/N/NLD/80) and amendments of the Flora and Fauna Act in connection with the prohibition of trade in Cape fur seal products (G/TBT/N/NLD/83). The use of fur in fashion and particularly high fashion are impacted by these new regulations. The legislative bills in Germany and the Netherlands have no effect on fur products already legally exported to other member counties of the European Union. Asia-Pacific region Two circulars from Thailand concerning the modification of the G/TBT/N/THA/174 and G/TBT/N/THA/177 were notified last year. With these two circulars, the Thai Industrial Standards Institute (TISI) aimed to modify the use of direct dyes and active dyes under the standard of TIS 739-2549(2006). It is expected that Thailand's textile industry is benefited substantially under the Japan-Thailand Economic Partnership Agreement (JTEPA) concluded in late 2007. As a consequence, Thailand's trade position among the ASEAN countries changed radically last year. Japan used to import textiles heavily from China. About 90% of Japan's textile imports were shipped from China, but now about
China Focus 20%-35% of fabric and fiber imports shipped to Japan come from the ASEAN countries. The growth of Thailand's textile export value increased rapidly partly due to the JTEPA. Foreign-invested textile manufacturing units in Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia can also favor textile exports of Thailand. Moreover, under the agreement between Japan and Thailand, the Japanese side agreed to provide assistance to the Thai industry with Japanese experts on bleaching and dyeing techniques. The aim was to help Thai players manufacture uniquely dyed fabrics that are demanded by the Japanese market. With the help of Japanese expertise, Thailand was able to develop new markets (e.g. Japan) although its shares in the traditional markets such as the US and Europe was diminishing, as well as to upgrade the Thai dyeing industry by purchasing advanced machinery. Caption: ASEAN countries seeking tighter economic ties with Japan (Photo: www.vietnam-un.org) Rumania Out of 26 circulars released by Rumania in 2008, seven were involved with technical measurements of fibers and five related to leather products (including how to use certain animal skins), which also form part of the related national standards of the country. As a leading textile and apparel exporting country in East Europe, Rumania urgently needs to standardize the use of raw fiber materials (including animal skins) for the manufacture of textile and leather products. Rumania is the third largest clothing exporter to the EU, after China and Turkey. Currently, low-cost garment products are manufactured in China, India, Bangladesh and etc, whereas the middle-range ready-made apparel are made in Europe, especially in southeast Europe including Romania. Nonetheless, approximately 85% of the Romanian textile manufacturers engage with garment processing operations, and the country has not actively developed its own fiber and fabric production. China In 2008, China released the circulars with regard to three national standards, on the safety and hygiene performance of shoes, moisture regain of textile materials, and instructions for use of textiles and apparel as consumer goods. Although China is a major textile and apparel exporter in the world, the country has few circulars of technical barriers to trade in the sector. The number of textile and garment circulars accounted for 2.05% of the total circulars released by China last year. Health concerns heighten in Europe For the global textile industry, the PFOS (perfluorooctane sulfonates) Directive is an important regulation in recent years. (Remark: The EU authorities explained that the risks posed to health and environment by PFOS have been assessed in accordance with the principles of European Council Regulation, and a need to reduce the risks to health and the environment was identified.) First released by year-end 2006, the PFOS Directive was implemented among the EU members since June 2008. This European directive limits the use of PFOS in textiles and related coating materials, and the limitation is more stringent than the previous directive of 2005/0244 (COD). PFOS is used in the commercial and industrial fields in China, including a number of China's highly competitive export products of textiles, leather and carpet. Chinese textile finishing enterprises are advised to carefully select their suppliers and make plans to better cope with the new directive of PFOS. Enterprises can also take a further step to get their PFOS-free products tested and labeled as a way of value addition. Environmental protection has become a discussion topic around the world. Countries aiming to gain more shares in the international market are rapidly adopting stringent standards in the area of eco-friendliness for industrial goods. In order to enter into the high-end fabric market, Chinese enterprises are advised to intensify their efforts of research and new product development, especially those green products that give maximum performance but minimal environmental footprint. As the external environment turns unfavorable, many Chinese enterprises have changed their strategy and aimed at domestic sales. Due to the global financial crisis and reduced purchasing power of the developed regions, overseas enterprises also eye on the Chinese market with its population of over one billion. On the other hand, Asian countries, as well as free-trade areas and nations, have issued their national technical standards. The emergence of regions with a preferential tax rate will impact the flow of goods globally. Therefore, China should pay attention to international trade trends, as well as technical regulations established by countries in Asia, no matter big or small countries they are. China should also participate more actively in the establishment of technical standards. Caption: The EU restricts the use of PFOS, a man-made chemical compound found hazardous to animals and humans The article was contributed by Xie Qiuqi (謝秋琪), a research fellow at the Hubei WTO/TBT Notification and Consultancy Center (湖北WTO/TBT通報諮詢中心) and the Institute of Standards of Hubei Province (湖北省標準化研究院).
China Focus Dalian rises as a garment city in North China Strategically situated in the Bohai-Rim Economic Zone (環渤海經濟圈) and serving as a gateway of North China to the world, Dalian has actively developed its garment industry for the North Asia market, such as Japan, as well as the western markets by Staff Reporters Dalian (大連), a Chinese city in Liaoning Province (遼寧省), first developed its garment industry in the late 1970s. After developing for over three decades, the city has gradually earned its reputation in the garment sector due to good sales performance in home markets and abroad. The emergence of such garment enterprises as Dayang (大楊), Bihai (碧海) and Sunlaura (桑扶蘭), garment products from Dalian are known for their manufacturing experience and knowledge in consumer tastes of Japan and western countries. Strategically located in the Bohai-Rim Economic Zone, Dalian is a gateway of North China to the outside world. The geographic location of Dalian favors transportation via water and land, making it a natural port connecting different parts of China to the Far East, South Asia, North America, Europe and elsewhere. By the end of 2008, there were around 99,900 workers employed in Dalian’s garment industry. Garment manufacturers in the city specialize in the production of formal wear, uniforms, women’s fashion and intimate wear. More than 80% enterprises are export-oriented. There are totally 302 sizable garment enterprises (with a registered capital over RMB5 million) in Dalian. Last year, sizable garment enterprises in Dalian produced 96.48 million pieces of garment products, up 11.5% from the previous year. Their sales revenue reached RMB13.42 billion, up 13.9% year on year. In addition, they registered an export value of RMB10.65 billion, up 4.9% year-on-year and generated a profit of RMB740 million, up 43.8%. Caption: Dalian is one of the leading cities in North China Learning overseas expertise Conventional garment enterprises of Dalian serve as original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) for Japanese, Korean, European and American brands. The Dalian textile and garment industry developed first mainly as OEMs, allowing local enterprises to learn about the use of internationally advanced technologies, equipment and management systems," said Pei Xianfang (裴憲芳), a director at the Dalian Garment Trade Association (大連市服裝行業協會). Today, some of theses enterprises have advanced themselves through developing their own brands, which provide them more opportunities in today's fast-changing markets. Manager of planning department at Dalian's Bihai (碧海), Li Wenying (李文穎), said that enterprises should explore their own specializing markets. Take Bihai as an example, it dedicates itself to the manufacture of work wear and uniforms for police and military forces. Dayang Group (大楊), a forerunner in the city of Dalian to establish its own brand of China, namely "Trands"(創世). Initially working as an OEM for Giorgio Armani, a top global brand of men's fashion, Dayang joined hands with an international designer, Luigi Proietti, in 2000 in the establishment of Trands brand. The Dayang Group has currently some 20 subsidiaries, which collectively employ a workforce of 11,000 people. It annually manufactured five million business suits for middle and premium market segments. The Group said that one third of business suits sold in Japan are shipped from the Dayang Group. Other clients of the Group include Marks & Spencer and Macy's. Dalian city also houses a number of local garment brands including Sunlaura (桑扶蘭), Fuge (富哥) and Asewang (亞瑟王). Caption: Business suits of Dayang Group
China Focus Dalian garment fair promotes local development The Dalian International Fashion Festival was first launched two decades ago. In the fair's 2007 edition, the event attracted 51,000 trade visitors, in which 2,618 were overseas buyers from 85 countries and regions. During the fair, a garment and textile industry park was introduced to promote creativity, design and brand building among the local enterprises of Dalian. Talent was also emphasized so as to contribute to the long-term development of Dalian in the fashion industry. The Dalian industry is open to new ideas and technologies. Through the trade fair, industry associations and players are eager to learn from overseas experience. The trade fair organizer visited Japan and met delegates from the country's key textile organizations and enterprises this March. Caption: Garment making in Dalian has been spurred by trade fairs Tiding over global financial crisis Like many places in China and elsewhere, the Dalian garment industry felt the chill of the global financial crisis. Some enterprises faced tight cash flow and sharply decreases in orders received. "Many enterprises did not feel the impact of the crisis until the Chinese new year in early 2009 and they had to adjust the business plans rapidly," said Ms Pei at the Dalian garment association. She explained that larger enterprises tend to have more resources to cope with the economic pressure, whereas some smaller enterprises faced closures, especially when they could not obtain new investment (to ease cash flow) or failed to receive new orders. Nonetheless, there are enterprises that are doing fairly well. Deputy Manager at the brand promotion department of Dalian Fushan Garment (大連福山), Yu Linhao (于臨好), said the company was planning to expand. The 60-year-old Japanese-owned company continues to receive orders amid the quiet market environment. To further penetrate overseas markets in Europe and North America, the company established a subsidiary in the US and a trading company in China early this year. "The financial crisis is affecting the industry considerably, but it also brings opportunities. Market consolidation favors larger companies, which are capable of expanding production capacity, for instance. As consumers alter their purchasing patterns, it gives opportunities to new product innovations. It is also a time for enterprises to streamline and enhance their internal management," said Mr Yu. Fuge attributed to the trust between clients as a critical support in the current global economic downturn. Representative of the company commented that trust was built with these long-term clients. Mr Li from Bihai mentioned that the company was less affected by the economic downturn, as it was able to maintain an annual growth of 14% last year, partly because the segment of uniforms was less susceptible to the global economic changes. Bihai built the first and the only vocational garment design and research institute in China, employing over 30 researchers at the moment, according to Mr Li. He further explained that the institute applied three patents last year for its R&D efforts, and four or five patent applications were under way this year. In particular, the leather wear for Chinese motor policemen was approved recently and will be adopted throughout China in near future. Uniforms worn by the Chinese special police forces at the 60th anniversary celebration ceremony this year were provided by Bihai.
Retail Scene Stage-inspired lingerie previewed in Paris and HK At the recent Salon International de La Lingerie (SIL) organized by Eurovet in the French fashion capital of Paris, numerous creative lingerie collections designed for the coming seasons were placed at the center stage Premium lingerie that lures and charms The catwalk show of Ultra Lingerie in Paris welcomed some 850 guests. Four awards were given at the exhibition. •Ultra-Gourmandise Award named by the jury: Prelude / Sophie Hallette / Boselli •Fabrics Award: Ritratti / Eurostick / JuniorHagen/Boselli •Jury's Special Prize: Empreinte / Seram / Forster Rohner / Liebaert •Lingerie Industry Prize selected by the audience: Prelude / Sophie Hallette / Boselli Caption: Selmark / Boselli Caption: Fishbelly / Maute + Renz Textil / Soltiss, and Anderes Broderies / Siva SRL Caption: Chantelle / Sakae Lace / Forster Rohner Caption: Empreinte / Seram / Forster Rohner / Liebaert Caption: Prelude / Sophie Hallette / Boselli Caption: Seram Caption: Only Hearts / Sophie Hallette Caption: Ritratti / Eurostick / Junior Hagen / Boselli
Retail Scene Creativity polishes daily underwear Eight daily fashion shows at the SIL aroused the interest of some 7,000 buyers who checked out newest lingerie collections characterised by glamour, aestheticism and exceptional originality. Caption: Chasney Beauty Caption: Impetus Caption: Elise Anderegg Caption: Rosa Faia Beautyfull Caption: Simone Perele Unusual intimate wear stand out in Hong Kong At the Eurovet-held Hong Kong Mode Lingerie organized this April, unconventional collections from the Ultra Lingerie 2009 show were demonstrated, in addition to pieces designed by students of ACE Style Institute of Intimate Apparel (ASIIA), Institute of Textiles and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University (PolyU). Caption: Elise Anderegg / Soltiss Caption: Eva Rachline/ Codentel/ Bacus Caption: Celia Kong / ASIIA, PolyU Caption: Chesko Ng / ASIIA, PolyU Caption: Chesko Ng / ASIIA, PolyU Photos of SIL: Eurovet
Retail Scene New jeans using Dow XLA fiber launched Dow Fiber Solutions, a business unit of The Dow Chemical Company, partnered with Paige Premium Denim to launch a next-generation Dow XLA fiber in an exclusive "Paigeaholic" jean. Dow Fiber Solutions describes Dow XLA as the world's first and only olefin-based stretch fiber, offering benefits for the treatment, durability, and comfort of denim. Dow Fiber Solutions has aggressively penetrated Dow XLA fiber in the denim market with premier partners at all levels of the supply chain, from world-class denim textile mills to globally recognized consumer brands. Holiday Watson, global public affairs and brand leader for Dow Fiber Solutions explained that these collaborative partnerships play an important role to influence other global brand leaders to use Dow XLA fiber to bring differentiated value to the market. Caption: Well-shaped jeans made of Dow XLA fiber Designer Jil Sander allies with Fast Retailing Fast Retailing entered into a design consulting agreement this March for its Uniqlo brand with a consultancy firm owned and represented by Jil Sander. According to the agreement, Ms Sander would involve herself personally in all aspects of the design and making of the Uniqlo men's and women's apparel products for global retail and, when the opportunity arises, the development of a special Uniqlo collection. Fast Retailing expected to offer customers worldwide Uniqlo products that have been created in cooperation with Ms Sander from the fall/winter season 2009. Caption: Fast Retailing co-operates with Jil Sander to enhance Uniqlo's fashion basic "It goes without saying that Fast Retailing has the highest regard for Ms Sander's skills as a designer and creator of clothes and in particular for her ability to create pure forms free of unnecessary excess, her stringent material selection and her exquisite tailoring and use of materials. These special features are a great match for‘fashion basic’offered by Uniqlo. We are convinced that this natural affinity and the future creativity cultivated jointly by Uniqlo and Ms Sander will give way to considerable benefits and will greatly enhance Uniqlo products and promote even higher quality garments," stated Fast Retailing. Zara stores to be present in India next year Inditex and the Tata Group signed an agreement early this year to form a joint venture to develop Zara stores in India. Inditex controls 51% of the venture, while Trent Limited, a Tata Group company, has the remaining 49%. The partnership planned to open its first stores starting in 2010 in New Delhi, Mumbai and other major cities of India. During a signing ceremony at Inditex headquarters in Arteixo, Spain, Noel N. Tata, Managing Director of Trent Limited, a Tata Enterprise, said: "We see great opportunities for Zara in a country which is becoming increasingly fashion conscious. Zara has proven itself capable of quickly adapting to changing consumer tastes across geographies. This association with brand Zara is our endeavour to bring a world class brand and experience to fashion conscious Indians." Meanwhile, Inditex's Deputy Chairman and CEO, Pablo Isla, emphasised the excellent opportunity the Indian market poses for Zara's retail business: "We view our entry into the Indian market to be of significant strategic importance. We are extremely delighted to be associating with Trent from the Tata Group, one of India's largest and most respected business houses. Our retail offering has been very well received by shoppers in Asian markets, and we have rapidly expanded there. And now India will be one of our top priorities in the region." Caption: Inditex's Pablo Isla (left) shaking hands with Noel N. Tata of Trent Limited after the agreement-signing ceremony Premium apparel helps build sturdy body shape The IFBB Professional League Consumer Products Group in the US unveiled to bodybuilding and fitness enthusiasts the first officially licensed collection of IFBB PRO workout and lifestyle clothing. The new apparel is designed, engineered and gym-tested with features that include proven patented technologies, high performance applications and textile innovations, according to the International Federation of Bodybuilders (IFBB). The initial line of IFBB PRO Apparel includes breathable, moisture-management performance and compression workout tops, tees, hoodies and caps. More new items will be introduced over time. The collection allows wearers to experience the benefits of active performance, athletic compression and lifestyle items that take wearers from the gym to the street, the federation said. The apparel is available at select specialty retailers.
Show Watcher China Interdye 2009 showcases 400 exhibitors in Shanghai Staged in INTEX Shanghai and Shanghai mart this April, the 9th China International Dye Industry, Pigments and Textile Chemicals Exhibition (China Interdye 2009) hosted more than 400 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions in a total exhibition floor space of 20,000 square meters were provided, including 7,000 square meters for overseas exhibitors. The some 400 exhibitors included both world known brands such as DyStar, BASF, Kekai, Tanatex, Jingsimai, Novozymes and domestic leading companies such as Longsheng, Runtu, Jihua, Yabang, and Jiehong. There were also delegations from Korea, India, Taiwan, Tianjin city, as well as professional purchaser groups from India, Vietnam, Bengal, Korea and etc, according to the organizer, Shanghai International Exhibition Corporation. Dyestuffs and organic pigments are widely used in textiles, the light industry, paint and printing ink sectors, etc. In 2008, China produced 678,000 tons of dyestuffs and 185,000 tons of organic pigments; import and export volume for dyestuffs and organic pigments totaled 296,000 tons and 152,000 tons, respectively; trade volume for import and export of dyestuffs and organic pigments reached US$1.648 billion and US$1.142 billion, up 14% and 9.7% year on year, respectively, the organizer said. Hong Kong Interstoff positioned as eco-friendly textile fair The 2009 Spring edition of Interstoff Asia Essential this March attracted nearly 7,000 visitors to Hong Kong from 42 countries and regions, including those from Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, the US, Indonesia, Australia, South Korea, India, Japan and Thailand. "Interstoff Asia Spring's reputation as an eco-friendly global sourcing platform is well on the road to becoming established, as was demonstrated by the high number of exhibitors displaying eco-fabrics (32% of total) on the fair," said Messe Frankfurt. On the fairground, BASF Textile Chemicals explained how ecology and economy can go hand in hand through innovative solutions focusing on three key aspects: consumer safety, resource saving and climate protection. "We predict more opportunities in the current weaker-demand environment, as a greater number of manufacturers in China and Asia have come to apprehend the importance of value addition over the price-reduction strategy. Manufacturers began to inquire into a long-term approach of adding value at a lower total cost, meaning that they can reduce their total manufacturing cost by utilizing eco-friendlier chemicals of BASF, for instance," said Paul Mui, Head of Business Management Textile Chemicals East Asia. In the meantime, Sachiko Inoue, Trend Planner of JFW Japan Creation in Tokyo told ATA Journal at the Interstoff Asia exhibition: "The current situation is tough for everyone in the field of textile and apparel, but we remain a positive attitude and continue innovating in various aspects. We are aware of looking for something not developed in other countries. In that direction, we have developed compound fabrics, blending natural fibers with synthetic fibers such as polyester and polyurethane (PU). The engineered fabrics combine the characteristics of different fibers to offer unique features and hand feel etc." She considered Japanese enterprises are strong in the finishing process. This gives added value shown in the expression of the surface. In addition, Japanese enterprises are finding out ways that are both eco-friendly and uniquely Japanese in style. JFW Japan Creation in Tokyo organized by the Japan Fashion Week Organization is held in April and October each year. Caption: Sachiko Inoue promotes JFW Japan Creation in Hong Kong ITM 2009 promoted at Arabian forum Under the Patronage of the Minister of Trade and Industry of the Arab Republic of Egypt, Rachid Mohamed Rachid, the Arab Textile Industries Forum convened on March 15-16, in Cairo, Egypt. The Forum, organized by the Arab Federation for Textile Industries (AFTI) and Al-Iktissad Wal-Aamal Group in cooperation with the Egyptian Chamber of Textile Industries (ECTI), attracted a wide level of participation, including Arab ministers, government officials and policy makers, private sector leaders and investors in the textile industry, and Arab and international experts, in addition to major European and Asian manufacturers of textiles machinery, equipment and raw materials. Presenting at the forum as a speaker, Adil Nalbant, the Chairman of Temsad provided information about the role of Temsad in the integration of Turkey with the world and its activities, as well as he invited the whole Arabian world to ITM 2009 International Textile Machinery Exhibition, which will be organized with the cooperation of Teknik Ltd, Tuyap and Temsad from June 6 to 10, in Istanbul, Turkey. Vietnamese textile show draws attention from ASEAN countries Held this April in Hochiminh City, Vietnam, the Saigon Textile & Garment Industry Expo & Saigon Fabric and Garment Accessories Expo (Saigontex Expo) housed a wide range of exhibitors from 18 countries/regions including Austria, China, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Italy, Malaysia, Japan, Netherlands, Pakistan, Russia, Singapore, Switzerland, Taiwan, Thailand, Turkey, USA and Vietnam. With the "Machineries Section" and the "Fabrics & Accessories Section", the expo provided a one-stop sourcing market for trade buyers, the organizer said. Top officials of Asean Federation of Textile Industries (AFTEX) member countries including Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar,
Show Watcher the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand and Vietnam, in addition to China, India, Japan, and Korea, are invited to Vietnam to have a meeting regarding the "Experiences, difficulties and opportunities facing the textile industry in 2009." Innovation awards to be given at Techtextil and Avantex shows The award-winning developments of both the Techtextil Innovation Award and the Avantex Innovation Award will be presented to international trade visitors and exhibitors at Techtextil in Frankfurt am Main, Germany, from June 16 to 18. The Techtextil Innovation Award is open for entries from the research field. Additionally, the Award will be given for new materials, products, production facilities, manufacturing and finishing technologies for use in the twelve Techtextil areas of applications. In line with the International Natural Fibres Congress, which is being organised by Messe Frankfurt parallel to Techtextil, the Award will also be presented for new materials and products for technical applications based on or combined with natural fibres. The developments must be connected with the production or use of technical textiles, nonwovens or textile-reinforced materials. The Avantex Innovation Award will be presented for new developments in connection with materials, technology, the processing and finishing of, for example, new fibres and yarns, new equipment, nano-technology and electronics in garments. Fashion materials and applications such as medical textiles and garments are included. Caption: Newest nonwoven technologies will be introduced at Techtextil 2009. Pictured is a new Trützschler TC-07-H card Conferences European latest technologies announced in Belgium At the 4th Annual Public Conference of the European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing in Brussels, Belgium, in April this year, some 220 participants from European industry and academia attended to learn about the overview of the wide-ranging textile and clothing research and development work supported by EU funding schemes. Since its establishment in 2004, there are now more than 30 collaborative textile research projects under the Technology Platform are on-going with a total research funding commitment of 220 million euros. The projects range from the development and application of new fibres and textile materials, to innovation in production processes targeting new functionalities, resource-efficiency or radically higher productivity or flexibility. These new materials and processes are combined into prototypes of innovative high added value products for growing markets such as technical, protective, medical or smart textiles. Some projects look into the establishment of new organisational concepts and business models across product development, manufacturing and distribution of textiles and clothing. Karl Mayer hosts meeting of German knitting specialists Late this May, the German section of the International Federation of Knitting Technologists (IFKT) invited its members to its annual conference and assembly. It was hosted by Karl Mayer Textilmaschinenfabrik in Obertshausen, Germany. On the first day of the conference, the assembled knitting specialists elected a committee for the period 2009 to 2012 and prepare for a re-election of the president, followed by a report on the 44th International Congress held in September 2008 in St Petersburg, Russia. The members' conference were followed by a series of reports with the emphasis on technical textiles. Professor Marcus O. Weber presented a paper from the Niederrhein Technical University on the theme of measurement and evaluation of the yarn tension in stitch formation. Dr Uwe Moehring, from the Thueringen-Vogtland Textile Research Institute, presented the results of his research work. Dr Peter Offermann, from the Tudalit Proprietary Association and Dresden Technical University, discussed details of the strategies in knowledge transfer in the textile reinforcement of concrete. Theory and practice were combined on the second day of the conference. Climate change to be discussed at Dornbirn congress The two-and-half-day Dornbirn-MFC (man-made fiber congress) will focus on the challenges and opportunities brought by the climate change, which is the main topic in the lectures of the congress. The congress will be held on September 16-18 in Dornbirn, Austria. More than 100 expert lectures will be presented, following a selection by the programme committee out of a large number of highly qualified proposals. The plenary session on the opening day will include a lecture of the Zoological State Collection (Germany) on climate change and a lecture from the American Chemical Society (USA) on green chemistry. The AVK (Association of Composite Manufacturers) of Germany will present market-development trends for composites, and CIRFS (Belgium) will speak about development strategies for the European man-made fibers industry. Some 30 lectures will be presented under the topic of new developments in fibers (e.g. bi-component fibers and nano-technology). Other sessions will cover such topics as fibers for medical and hygiene textiles (including smart textiles), fibers for composites, transportation and professional wear.
Corporate Profile Crisis management of a leading Indonesian denim maker Featured company: APAC Asep Setiaharja has recently met the head of Indonesia's biggest denim manufacturer, Benny Soetrisno, and discussed with him how to withstand the current straining economic situation PT APAC Inti Corpora (APAC) claims to be the biggest denim manufacturer in Indonesia with an annual denim production of 60 millions yards, which is also the company's most important business. It has also other business divisions to support denim manufacturing, including the manufacture of yarns and greige fabrics. Through its sister company, APAC has expanded its business in garment sector. APAC was formed through an acquisition of a large spinning and weaving factory. Since then, under the helm of President-Director Benny Soetrisno, the new company - APAC - ventured into the denim manufacturing that has become the company's core business. Meanwhile, APAC maintains a large production capacity of spinning and weaving in the same manufacturing location. Strategically lied in Central Java, APAC is committed to serving the global textile demand and markets its product to more than 70 countries across five major continents. The current global crisis has influenced almost all business sectors, including textiles. It is thus interesting to know how a giant company, like APAC, withstands the straining situation. In what way it manages to meet challenges and capture opportunities. To answer these questions, ATA Journal conducted an exclusive interview with President-Director of PT APAC Inti Corpora, Benny Soetrisno, at his office in Jakarta, Indonesia. ATA: What is your key success factor in the textile business? Mr Soetrisno: Employee is the most valuable asset for us. There is a corporate belief in APAC: "People are the company. We can buy technology, and we can buy machinery, but loyal employees have to be developed through a good plan in management. To manage employee well we have to pay attention in two aspects, namely skill and aptitude. Developing a skillful person is not as hard as developing a good aptitude employee who the company needs. For that reason, APAC founded GRIPAC (Griya Pelatihan APAC) as its training center with a comprehensive and holistic human resources management program. APAC understands the importance of nurturing human resources, and competent people are given full chance to develop their skills and capacity at APAC. ATA: What is APAC's strategy in facing the current economic toughness? Mr Soetrisno: It was evident that the current global crisis has been reining up the global demand on textiles. This condition caused unbalanced demand and supply. Consequently, there is excessive supply everywhere, which has pulled down the price level and intensified the competition among suppliers. To survive the current condition, APAC has to be more cost-efficient along all lines — in the production process and the supporting process as well. There are two points of interest to enhance cost-efficiency in the production process, which are (1) control on purchasing costs of raw materials and (2) control on manufacturing costs. To control purchasing costs of raw materials, APAC adopts the following policies. APAC mainly uses three fiber materials: cotton, polyester and rayon. Cotton is partially imported from the international market and the rest are obtained from domestic vendors. As the Rupiah rate dropped against the US dollar during the crisis, the (domestic) cotton has got more expensive while international cotton price got lower. On the other hand, the domestic price of polyester and rayon have been relatively stable. APAC, therefore, changes its production strategy. The production of polyester and rayon yarns and fabrics, including their blends, has been increased while that of cotton/ blend products has been decreased. Caption: Benny Soetrisno
Corporate Profile Subsequently, to control the manufacturing cost, APAC has paid increased attention in two particular sections: electric power and manpower. Energy audit of all machinery and motor devices was conducted to determine the best way of energy management. The audit report outlined a number of recommendations and we have acted accordingly to achieve improvements, resulting in less consumption of electricity of machinery and motor devices without compromising the productivity. Restructuring of job allocation and management structure was undergone to better control manpower costs. For instance, under-load employees were given more job tasks. Similar to other companies, APAC was not able to avoid labor lay-off, which amounted to about 10%-15% of labors, including retired employees. Cost control was enforced not only in the production process, but also in the supporting areas. Currently, APAC is working to find most valuable logistic routes at the best reasonable price. The operation of accounting and purchasing activities were relocated from the headquarters in Jakarta to the factory plant in Bawen, Central Java to save costs. Caption: PT APAC Inti Corpora (APAC) ATA: Any reduction of production during crisis? Mr Soetrisno: The product portfolio of APAC can be divided into two categories, best selling items and less-selling products. APAC has to be realistic when facing the current condition. Hence, APAC was forced to reduce its manufacturing of less-selling products, leading to a 30% reduction of APAC’s production. ATA: How about the market? Mr Soetrisno: Before answering the question, let me recall that APAC Group is an integrated company from spinning, weaving all the way to garment-making. In the case of producing garment, APAC Group has not experienced any negative impact. The market is still stable so far (by the first quarter of 2009). Unfortunately, it was a different case in the market of yarns and fabrics. About 70% of yarns and fabrics by APAC are made for the international market, and the remaining are sold domestically. United States and European countries are major exporting markets of APAC. As the demand in these two major areas showed declines, APAC started to engage in market diversification. At the same time, we found that markets in Latin of America, Asia and Africa were still in a good condition. Therefore, APAC transferred some of its market destinations from the two major markets to the three (emerging) regions. APAC has also decided to increase its share in the neighbouring region since there are bulk demands from the domestic market, which is the ASEAN in the viewpoint of APAC. In the ASEAN Free Trade Area (AFTA), selling products to Malaysia or Vietnam is as easy as to Papua. ATA: Any particular expansion plan in the future? Mr Soetrisno: I do strongly believe that the crisis will be over soon. If we could be in a-bit-hard situation in 2009, I am projecting that we'll be back to normal in 2010. During the crisis, APAC was applying a wait-and-see strategy. For 2010 forward, APAC will return penetrating the market at full speed. I am planning to purchase new facilities of dyeing and finishing. The new facilities will not expand the production capacity but serve for quality improvement. At present, APAC produces products for medium markets. Empowered by the new facilities, APAC will start producing high-end textiles to reach the premium market. ATA: Last question, do you have any advice for textile entrepreneurs on facing the future condition? Mr Soetrisno: Stayed focus. We commit to whatever competency we possess, which forms our own core competence. For example, APAC used to focus on denim production, and it was and still is one of APAC's core competence. Other additional production units were built to support the denim production, with the spinning and garment units being erected for providing support and sustaining further development of our denim production. Yarns sold in the market are those in excess from our spinning unit. In recent years, the company has diversified its product portfolio to woven garment products as well. Key statistics of APAC Annual sales: US$ 250,000,000 Key products: Textiles: Yarns, greige fabrics, denim Garment: Woven tops, dresses, denim pants Annual capacity: Textiles: Yarns: 482,000 bales Greige fabrics: 80,000,000 meters Denim: 60,000,000 yards Garment: 500,000 dozen Labor force: Textiles: 11,000 employees Garment: 2,000 employees Certification SAI Global: ISO 9001:2000 & 14001:2004 Market orientation: Textiles: 70% export, 30% domestic Garment: 100% export
Company Bulletin Dow completes acquisition of Rohm and Haas The US-listed Dow Chemical Company announced that it had completed its acquisition of US-listed Rohm and Haas. The acquisition is a major step in Dow's strategy of growing its performance products and specialty portfolio to deliver more consistent earnings growth, Dow Chemical Company says. Following the acquisition, a US$14 billion diversified business portfolio, called Dow’s Advanced Materials division, will be created. The division is intended to achieve US$3 billion in additional value growth opportunities, as well as annual cost synergies of US$1.3 billion. Rohm and Haas is the key element in Dow’s new Advanced Materials division. Pierre Brondeau is president and CEO of this division, which includes coatings, building and construction, specialty materials, adhesives and functional polymers, and electronic materials. Rohm and Haas Company is a solutions supplier for the specialty materials industry, including textile and nonwoven binder technology. ITEMA Weaving and Lamiflex intensify cooperation ITEMA Weaving and Lamiflex spa entered into a strategic agreement, thus further formalizing and strengthening the collaboration between the two entities. ITEMA Weaving is a business unit of the International Technology & Machinery Group (ITEMA) dedicated to the production of weaving machines and related accessories. ITEMA Weaving is marketing and maintaining the brands Sulzer Textil, Somet and Vamatex. It recorded a turnover of 280 million euros in 2008. In the sector of technical composite materials, Lamiflex spa is active in the production of laminates for varied industrial environments; it has an annual turnover of 20 million euros. The agreement consolidates the already existing partnership with the prospect of the implementation of new products and processes and the mutual protection of intellectual property rights by means of common protection strategies, stated in a press release of ITEMA Weaving. In general, the agreement regulates the distribution of spare parts to the international market, which the two groups intend to exploit in a mutual way taking advantage of the existing commercial channels of the corresponding sales networks. It also rationalizes the use of the corresponding trademarks and the combined protection of certain patents, with eventual cross licensing. The mutual coordination allows the two groups to optimize their collaboration relationship, response times and procedures so as to address individual customers in a clear and more precise way, according to ITEMA Weaving. Rieter sees challenges this year 2009 is considered a challenging year by Rieter. The company expects declining demand in both (textile machinery and automotive) divisions, and hence capacity reductions and cost saving measures accordingly. In the medium term, Rieter believes that demand will increase at both divisions in line with global trends. The 2008 financial year for the Rieter Group bore clear traces of the consequences of the global economic downturn, the company said this March. Rieter Group sales for 2008 declined by 20% to 3142.5 million CHF. The operating result before special charges, interest and taxes totaled 22.4 million CHF. The group has two major divisions, namely textile machinery and automobiles. The trend of business at Rieter Textile Systems in 2008 was dominated by a cyclical downturn on the world market for textile machinery of an intensity and rapidity that had not been experienced by the industry for decades. Orders of 539.5 million CHF received by Textile Systems were 68% lower than in the record year of 2007 (1 703.1 million CHF); this was also due in part to postponements of orders. The weakening effectiveness of government incentive programs, a cyclical decline in fiber consumption in major sales markets such as the USA and more difficult financing conditions caused a rapid fall in customers' tendency to invest. Domestic demand in India and China was unable to offset this decline. Orders received by Rieter Textile Systems for staple fiber machinery since March 2008 have been substantially lower than in previous years, the company commented. Stoll opens showroom in New York Starting April 1, a new Stoll Fashion & Technology showroom is open in New York. Situated in Manhattan, New York, USA, the new 15,000-square feet showroom presents the opportunity to gain hands-on experience to the company's services. Stoll says that the new showroom marks Stoll Fashion & Technology's growing international status, which also includes locations in Reutlingen (Germany) and Shanghai (China), from which the company offers the possibility to pass on its creativity and know how to knitwear designers as well as major account customers operating modern Stoll knitting machines. This new facility is built around various themes such as inspirational archive, prototype sampling, sourcing, conference, or training. Stoll Fashion & Technology partners can find a platform to present their solutions for yarn sourcing, trends, knitwear collections and etc, the company adds. Caption: The new Stoll Fashion & Technology showroom in New York TenCate and Airbus continue partnership in composite materials Airbus signed the extension of its existing memorandum of understanding with TenCate, Stork Fokker AESP and The Netherlands Aerospace Group this April. Caption: The new Stoll Fashion & Technology showroom in New York
Company Bulletin The entry of another six Dutch industrial companies and knowledge institutes to the Thermoplastic Affordable Primary Aircraft Structure (TAPAS) consortium is expected this year. The TAPAS consortium consists of companies and institutes active in the Dutch aviation industry that are working closely with Airbus in the field of material, processing and joining technology. This technology will be further developed specifically for future Airbus applications, including primary structure parts such as fuselage and wings. TenCate pioneered in the development of lightweight thermoplastic composite materials for the aviation industry and cooperated with Airbus in this field for years. Fibre-reinforced composites originate in an innovation process based on textile technology. Composite materials from TenCate consist of a compound of carbon or glass fibres that, with the addition of synthetic resins, are consolidated into plate material and marketed under the name TenCate Cetex, the company says. The characteristic of this material includes the fact that when heated in a molding press it becomes deformable (thermoplastic). The material can be industrially processed into moulded parts for wings, interiors and other parts. Additionally, TenCate makes a significant contribution to the efforts of Airbus to achieve eco-efficiency. Unifi sells joint venture in China Unifi Inc announced that it had closed on the sale and received US$9 million in proceeds related to its 50% ownership interest in Yihua Unifi Fibre Industry Co Ltd, the Company's joint venture with Sinopec Yizheng Chemical Fiber Co Ltd (YCFC). Unifi continues to service customers in Asia through Unifi Textiles Suzhou Co Ltd (UTSC), a wholly owned subsidiary based in Suzhou, China, that is dedicated to the development, sales and service of premium value-added (PVA) yarns. "Succeeding in today's global economic climate requires an even greater focus on supply chain management and the development of innovative specialty yarns, and UTSC provides Unifi with the flexibility and speed-to-market required to respond to the needs of our customers in Asia," said Roger Berrier, executive vice president of Unifi. The existing UTSC continues to expand the sales and promotion of the company’s specialty and PVA products (e.g. moisture-management Sorbtek technology and Repreve sustainable textiles), as well as looking for product commercialization of new and existing products, Unifi says. Caption: Unifi sold its JV in China and continues yarn production in its Suzhou subsidiary New movement BASF appoints new supply chain and EHS heads for Asia BASF announced the appointments of two functional unit heads for Asia Pacific. Effective April 1, Anthony Clymo is Head of Environment, Health and Safety (EHS), Asia Pacific, and Ralf Busche Head of Supply Chain Management Asia Pacific. Mr Clymo joined BASF as Production Manager of BASF Australia Ltd in 1994. He then became General Manager for Acrylic Monomers of BASF-Petronas Chemicals Sdn Bhd in Malaysia (2001-06). Prior to his new role, he was the Director of Site Coordination Asia Pacific based in Hong Kong since 2006. Mr Busche joined BASF AG in Germany in 1989. In 2007, he became Director Global Procurement & Logistics Maritime, Air & Terminal Services and Travel Management. New managing director appointed at BASF Vietnam BASF recently set up a wholly-owned foreign company, BASF Vietnam Co Ltd, as a platform to target growth industries in Vietnam including coatings, footwear, plastic and packaging and etc. Jirawat Thongbai, previously the Chief Representative of the Representative Office in Vietnam, has assumed the role of Managing Director for BASF Vietnam. "Vietnam is a key market for BASF in the ASEAN subregion, and its dynamic economy offers good growth opportunities. We therefore want to establish a stronger presence so that we are closer to our customers and better able to serve them," said Dr Tilman Krauch, President, Regional Functions & Country Management, Asia Pacific, BASF. Americhem appoints new manager in fiber technology Americhem Inc, a global provider of custom color and additive solutions for fibres and polymer-based products, recently added Michael Frisch as the company's new European fibres technology manager. Mr Frisch comes from Trevira to Americhem with an extensive background in customer service, fibre production and R&D. His previous concentration includes yarn developments, with a special focus on solution-dyed yarns and masterbatch processing. In this position, Mr Frisch acts as a liaison between Americhem Europe and its customers, lab, sales department and markets. He is the official technical face of the company within the fibres market segment.
New Products Guide Andritz Kufferath presents high-tech nonwoven solutions Andritz Kufferath offers solutions for the different stages of manufacture - fibre web formation and bonding – both standardised and specially tailored in the manufacture of nonwovens. The Kufferath diagonal cover system is used in the formation of nonwoven materials, depending on the manufacturing process. The company's Technoflex forming fabrics made from synthetic materials are specially supplied for the production of nonwoven materials, which are manufactured in carding, air-laid, wet-laid as well as in spunbond / meltblown processes. Aku-Tec wire cloth made of high-grade steel is used amongst other things for thermal bonding applications. The product range in the field of nonwoven drying also includes Portaflex conveyor belts that are made of stainless steel. Enquiry code: 301 Drifire takes to market fire-resistant shirts Drifire, a US performance garment provider, introduced its ANSI-certified high-visual shirts, which include built-in flame resistance (FR), anti-static high-tech carbon fibers, and antibacterial qualities. The garments were made in conformance with the Drifire flame-resistant variant of a patented performance apparel blend, and which have just earned ANSI 107 Certification. This ANSI 107 Certification, developed by the International Safety Equipment Association (ISEA) and published by the American National Standards Institute Inc (ANSI), is an accepted standard for the design and performance of high visibility safety apparel. Wearers of ANSI 107 compliant apparel are much less likely to be injured or killed by moving vehicles or equipment than those who are wearing non-compliant apparel, according to Drifire. Today, regulatory bodies involved in a number of industries have adopted the ANSI 107-2004 standard. Enquiry code: 302 Latest version of webFolio launched by Gerber Gerber Technology, a supplier of automated CAD/CAM and PLM solutions for the sewn products and flexible materials industry, released webFolio 2.0, part of its Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) solution for the digital design, collaboration and creation of collections. Gerber Technology's webFolio 2.0 functions as a globally accessible solution enabling designers to organize and create content in a digital environment and effectively communicate information with internal associates, customers and vendors. This new product is easy to learn and operate allowing it to rapidly become an essential tool within a designer's tool kit, as it can be used as a stand-alone product or easily integrated with Gerber's webPDM product. This robust and intuitive format is the ideal solution for the creation, organization and management of apparel collections, the company says. Enquiry code: 303 Huntsman provides new repellent and soil release finishes Huntsman Textile Effects announced the launch of new repellent and soil release finishes for the textile industry that deliver maximum performance with a minimal environmental footprint, DuPont Capstone products, which will be marketed by Huntsman under the designation Oleophobol CP. Based on short-chain chemistry, these products provide a step-change reduction in trace impurities below the limit of detection, offering the same or better performance than their predecessors without compromising fluorine efficiency. The initial product offering from Huntsman includes a stain release (Oleophobol CP-R) and a synthetic oil and water repellent (Oleophobol CP-S). The stain release is suitable for cotton, synthetics and blends and eases the removal of both water- and oil-based stains during laundering. Enquiry code: 304 Innovative metering system supplied by Oerlikon Barmag A new Inject AC metering system for feeding liquids under pressure was unveiled by Oerlikon Barmag. It was developed to feed liquid low-viscosity additives under pressure. It is characterized by the following properties: •100% metering accuracy by using a booster pump and a metering pump. •Feed pressures of up to 300 bar are possible. •Viscosities from 100 mPas are possible. Additives with lower viscosities can also be processed depending on the application. •Very large throughput spectrum of between 0.03 and 70 liters/hour. •Heating by means of liquid heat carrier or using electrical heaters is possible. •Inject AC is supplied complete with control box as a "Plug and Play" system. •All electrical connections between control box and metering unit are pluggable. •Operation via a touch screen. •The control system is equipped with a Profibus interface. Caption: Oerlikon Barmag Inject AC (compact type) Enquiry code: 305 Circular knitting machine newly upgraded with 3,2 feeds An Italian circular knitting machinery producer, Orizio srl, introduced into its
New Products Guide jersey range the John-D machine with 3,2 feeds alongside the 3,0. The John-D model is a large-volume production machine that has all of the qualities and the characteristics of reliability and versatility recognized to the Orizio Jersey machines. This innovation allows the user to operate on a productive machine, due to the high speed and to the high number of feeds, the company describes. The John-D is available equipped with open width frame for the production of Lycra / elastane fabrics with viscose and acetate yarns. The completion of the striper machines range the JB4-1E and JB3E machine models have 1,6 feeds per diametrical inch with four colours and 2,4 feeds per diametrical inch with three colours respectively. Final product quality is ensured with JB4-1E and JB3E, Orizio says. According to Orizio, the JB4-1E machine suits for big volume production and it is an evolution of the 1,4 feeds per diametrical inch machine. It maintains the same fabric characteristics giving the opportunity to knit at four colours per feeders with lycra. Caption: The Orizio John-D machine (above) and the JB3E with three-colour striper Enquiry code: 306 Advanced harness frames offered Steel Heddle is an accessories supplier of high-performance frames with high precision and accurate dimensions, according to GTP Global Textile Partner. Steel Heddle airjet and rapier frames are well-known for their distinctive features including the patent-pending glued heddle rod and patented flexible corner connection system (R-flex) for less frame breakage, as well as the unique and patented integrated heddle damper for less heddle vibration. The company says that these features allow highest weaving speeds of on narrow widths (over 1200 rpm) as well as the best weaving performance on wide widths, without center support, up to 400 cm. Caption: Steel Heddle harness frame Enquiry code: 307 a fast insight into their operation and manage either proactively or react fast finally resulting in improving profitability, according to Uster. W.Baelz & Sohn W2 B62 W.Baelz & Sohn will highlight such exhibits as control valves for hot oil, hot water and steam, ejector and heat recovery system / energy saving, cost reduction, system optimization and pollution reduction. As a component maker for control valves and controllers being having served the Asian market for more than 30 years, Baelz is continuing efforts to inform the market about the importance to use original goods. Baelz will stress on the importance of the original "made in Germany" quality. Baelz provides cast-in stainless steel seat, the long-lasting packing-free stem seal, premium bellows, total quality control, and qualified technical sales support and international service, the company says. Wuxi Dongbao W3 B79 Headquartered in China, Wuxi Dongbao Machinery Manufacturing Co Ltd, specializing in the manufacture of printing and dyeing machinery, will present a variety of products, including high-temperature, high-pressure dyeing machines; high-temperature, overflow jet dyeing machines; fast package drying machine; sample dyeing apparatus and etc. Xiamen Rapid Precision Machinery W3 R01 On display will be a new Smart Dyer, which is a direct heat-conduct laboratory dyeing machine manufactured by Xiamen Rapid Precision Machinery (formerly Labortex/Taiwan). The advanced heat-conduct design offers not only advantages of a Glycerin type dyeing machine, but also provides features of an infrared type dyeing machine. The new design provides improvements on the two conventional designs, the company mentions. Its specially designed rotary system allows users to achieve even and crease-mark-free dyeing results, even at a low liquor ratio of 1:6. Users can easily add chemicals either in powder or liquid form during running of dyeing process by the patented "One Touch" injection device. Moreover, dyeing reproducibility is ensured as the chemical addition process simulates features of the bulk dyeing process. Caption: Smart Dyer of Xiamen Rapid Precision Machinery
Coming Events Calendar Date Event Location Organizer Tel/ Fax/ Email/ Website 2009 Jun 6-10 ITM 2009 International Textile Machinery Exhibition Istanbul / Turkey Teknik Fuarcilik (90) 212 592 5992 / (90) 212 599 3882 info@teknikfuarcilik.com / info@itm2009.com / www.itm2009.com 12-15 ShanghaiTex 2009 — The 14th International Exhibition on Textile Industry Shanghai / China Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd (852) 2811 8897 / (852) 2516 5024 publicity@adsale.com.hk / http://shanghaitexonline.com 16-18 Techtextil Frankfurt Frankfurt am Main / Germany Messe Frankfurt (49) 69 7575 6553 / (49) 69 7575 9655 3 Katrin.Mueller@Messefrankfurt.com / http://techtextil.messefrankfurt.com 16-19 Pitti Immagine Uomo 2009 Florence / Italy Pitti Immagine pr.visitatori@pittimmagine.com / www.pittimmagine.com July 6-9 Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring / Summer 2010 Hong Kong / China Hong Kong Trade Development Council (852) 2240 4323 / (852) 2824 0026 exhibitions@tdc.org.hk / www.hkfashionweekss.com 15-17 National Garment Fair 2009 Mumbai / India Clothing Manufacturer's Association of India (91) 22 2353 8245 / (91) 22 2351 5908 cmai@vsnl.com, info@cmai.in / www.cmai.in 16-19 10th Textech Bangladesh 2009 International Expo Dhaka / Bangladesh CEMS (880) 2 8812713 / (880) 2 989 4573 contact@textechonline.org, cems.bd@cemsonline.com / www.textechonline.org 20-22 Spin Expo New York New York / USA Well Link Consultants Ltd (852) 2824 8581 / (852) 2824 8268 steven@spinexpo.com (Mr Steven Chen) / www.spinexpo.com Sep 2-4 Preview in Seoul: Seoul International Textile Fair Seoul / Korea Korea Federation of Textile Industries (KOFOTI), Seoul Metropolitan Government & Daegu Metropolitan City (82) 2 528 4052 / (82) 2 528 4069 kofoti@kofoti.or.kr / www.kofoti.or.kr 8-10 Spin Expo Shanghai Shanghai / China Well Link Consultants Ltd (852) 2824 8581 / (852) 2824 8268 steven@spinexpo.com (Mr Steven Chen) / www.spinexpo.com 9-11 The 10th China (Qingdao) International Textile Machinery Fair (QITMF) Qingdao / China Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd (852) 2811 8897 / (852) 2516 5024 publicity@adsale.com.hk / www.2456.com/qdtex 15-18 Première Vision Paris Paris / France Première Vision S.A. (852) 2526 6715 / (852) 3013 9554 pvhkgd@pacific.net.hk, info@premierevision.fr / www.premierevision.fr Oct 10-12 Techtextil India 2009 Mumbai / India Messe Frankfurt (91) 22 2202 7609 / (91) 22 2202 7243 anchal.banerjee@india.messefrankfurt.com / www.messefrankfurt.com 21-24 Indonesia Textile & Apparel Affair-ITAF 2009 Jakarta / Indonesia Antheus Indonesia (62) 21 530 3111 / (62) 21 530 3113 www.antheus.co.id Nov 18-20 Yiwu H&G 2009 Yiwu / China Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd (852) 2516 3363 / (852) 2516 5024 publicity@adsale.com.hk / www.2456.com/yiwu * ATA Journal will be distributed at booth / media stand * These events are accurate to the best of our knowledge and are subject to change without prior notice. Event organizers are welcome to email information of their coming events to The Editor, ATA Journal cta.ata.edit@adsale.com.hk
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ADSALE EXHIBITION SERVICES LTD
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AMANN ASIA LTD
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BASF EAST ASIA REGIONAL HEADQUARTERS LTD
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BENNINGER AG
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BRUCKNER TEXTILE TECHNOLOGIES, GMBH & CO. KG
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CHAN CHAO INTERNATIONAL CO., LTD - THE 9TH VIETNAM INT'L TEXTILE & GARMENT INDUSTRY EXHIBITION/ THE
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COMEZ S.P.A
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DORNIER MACHINERY (SHANGHAI) CO., LTD
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DOW CORNING SILICONE TRADING (SHANGHAI) CO., LTD
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DYMATIC CHEMICALS, INC
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GROZ-BECKERT KG
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GUANGDONG HAN'S YUEMING LASER TECHNOLOGY CO., LTD
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H. STOLL GMBH & CO
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HEUSCH GMBH & CO. KG
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HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS
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KARL MAYER MASCHINENFABRIK GMBH
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MAYER & CIE GMBH & CO., CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINEY
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PANTONE ASIA INC
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SSM SCHARER SCHWEITER METTLER AG
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STAUBLI INTERNATIONAL AG
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STORK PRINTS B.V. ABT. MARKETING COMMUNICATIONS
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SWISS TEXTILE-TESTING LTD
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SWISSTEX WINTERTHUR GMBH
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TAINING MACHINE INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD
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THREE CIRCLES KNITTING NEEDLES INDUSTRY CO., LTD
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