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Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 1 - OERLIKON TEXTILE GMBH & CO.KGAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 2 - LOEPFE BROTHERS LTDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 3 - Magazine CoverAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 4 - KAR MING INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIES CO., LTDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 5 - A. MONFORTS TEXTILMASCHINEN GMBH & CO. KGAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 6 - JUN / JUL 2012 CONTENTS VOL. 23 NO. 3 ■ ISSN 1015-8138 Frontline 16 Recycling resources opens new door to sustainability and profitability In face of resources scarcity in the textile industry, recycling become an apparent way in solving the problem. Some companies treat the trend of recycling resources as an opportunity for further development 20 ITM 2012 Review ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 Preview 26 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012: Expanded despite challenging economic climate Market Focus 46 Sportswear: An industry in flux Sports brands are struggling to respond to many changing demands from both the market and their supply chains Material Technology 56 Nano Coatings add new dimensions to functional fabrics Environmental Watch 58 13 steps to obtain an eco-label 64 Sustainability gaining momentum with retailers’ awareness Chemical & Auxiliaries 66 Novel auxiliaries cut costs and increase productivity Nonwovens / Technical Textiles 68 Multi-disciplinary support boosts protective textiles Special Edition: Testing and QC Textile Technology Feature 50 Testing automatically, accurately and fast One of the biggest challenges faced by textile testing laboratories is the need for automated testing equipment that provides simple yet reliable testing in a high volume environment 51 Testing and quality control instruments suppliers China Report 70 “The next China” is still China 72 Men’s clothing industry of Huizhou: The road towards brand upgrade Retail Scene 76 Universal transformation: Spring/ Summer 2013 Corporate Profile 86 German technology to stay ahead in competitive market 88 Eco-awareness and innovation take priority Thailand-based company, Nan Yang Textile Group, runs its textile and garment business in an eco-friendly ways Other columns 8 Editor’s Note 10 Industry News 80 Show Watcher 92 Company Bulletin 96 New Products Guide 97 Reader’s Comments 99 Coming Events Calendar 100 Advertiser’s Index Cover Advertisement Enquiry code: 101 Oerlikon Textile Oerlikon Textile and its business units are the market leaders in virtually every technology area. With their innovations, they are continuously setting new standards for the global textile production. They provide comprehensive overall e-save solutions in the sector of textile machinery and plant manufacture: From the plant design for the production of man-made and nonwoven fibres up to facilities for ring spinning, rotor spinning, winding, twisting or embroidery, they cover the entire value added chain in the textile sector. Website: www.e-save.oerlikontextile.com Register now! AdsaleATA.com/members Free subscriptionof “Weekly eNewsletter” and members’ benefits AdsaleATA.com/eBook eBook of all issues are available With over 100 reporters & contributors’ support Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 7 - AMANN ASIA LTDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 8 - JUN / JUL 2012 Editor’s Note The biennial event of ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 will be held during June 12 to 16 in Shanghai. Despite the global economic uncertainties, the show owners have reported a 30% growth in exhibition space to 132,000 sqm at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC). The owner of the show comments that the increased demand is beyond expectations. It also indicated the resilience of the textile industry. More than 1,230 exhibitors from 27 countries and regions will gather at this exhibition in China once again, bringing with them the textile technologies that cater for potential customers in Asia, especially in China, Bangladesh, India, Russia, Vietnam, Pakistan and Indonesia. The textile industries in these countries continue to transform, leading to new demands for advanced machinery and technology. We have included in this issue some of the exhibits for your preview. Besides, two more exhibitions which were held recently have presented to the industry the latest textile technologies in machinery and chemicals, which ATA Journal has also reported on. They are ITM 2012 in Istanbul, and the China Interdye 2012 in Shanghai. Turkey has been regarded as the last frontier of textile manufacturing in the western world, according to Clement Woon, the new CEO of Oerlikon Textile. The vibrant market is also the bridge between Europe and Asia to promote business relations between the two continents, making ITM 2012 one of the important textile shows this year. Exhibits seen at China Interdye 2012 cover various advanced eco-friendly dye, organic pigments and intermediates. Some 500 exhibitors had presented their cutting-edge products. About 83% of them are producers of dyestuffs and organic pigment, and the rest are suppliers of auxiliary and printing equipment. “Textile Technology Feature” focuses on “testing and quality control”, according to the US-based testing equipment supplier Q-Lab, one of the biggest challenges faced by textile testing laboratories is the need for automated testing equipment that provides simple yet reliable testing in a high volume environment. Textile industry people also reported a rise in demand for functionality tests in China, and fast growth of testing services in other Asian countries, such as Vietnam and Indonesia. “Market Focus” looks at how sports brands are struggling to respond to the changing demands. As reported by our correspondent, a number of major trends are currently influencing the global sports and fitness clothing market, the most immediate being the increasing pressure for more sustainable and less wasteful manufacturing and sourcing. ATA JOURNAL for Asia on Textile & Apparel is published by Adsale Publishing Limited (a member of the Adsale Group) Address: 6th Floor, 321 Java Road, North Point, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2811 8897 Fax: (852) 2516 5119 Email: cta.ata@adsale.com.hk Web-site(Adsale Group): www.adsale.com.hk Adsale Textile Website: www.AdsaleATA.com General Manager: Annie Chu Senior Executive Editor: Naomi Lee Editor: Kelvin Yau China Editor: Joany Hao AdsaleATA.com Senior Editor: Wong Hok Tak Editorial Emails cta.ata.edit@adsale.com.hk cta.ata@sz.adsale.com.hk Contributors Adrian Wilson (Europe) Ajay Sinha (South Asia) Asep Setiaharja (S E Asia) Baari Inggi (S E Asia) Gail Taylor (Hong Kong) Ian Holme (Europe) Lucia Carpio (Europe) Manik Mehta (US & Europe) Ngo Tuan (Vietnam) Sanjay Gupta (India) Seshadri Ramkumar (US) Sunil Kumar Puri (India) Marketing and Advertising Janet Tong email: ata@adsale.com.hk Advertising Sales Offices See page 100 Production Sonia Lai Circulation Circulation Department Publication Frequency 6 times in 2012 Distribution ATA JOURNAL is distributed free to individuals who meet the publisher’s registered terms of control. Fill in the reader’s form to apply for qualified readership. Subscription Rates (annual incl postage) Hong Kong: HK$455 Asia (surface mail): US$75 All Other Regions (surface mail): US$85 Cover Price: HK$76 / US$13 / US$15 Copyright © 2012 All rights reserved. Reproduction in any form without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publisher is not responsible for statements or opinions expressed herein nor do such statements necessarily express the views of the publisher unless stated as such. Printing Elite Printing (Hong Kong) Co., Ltd. Address: Room 1401-8 14/F Hong Man Ind Centre, 2 Hong Man St, Chai Wan, HK Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 9 - H. STOLL GMBH & COAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 10 - Industry News Southeast Asia China Chinese textile and garment exports reach US$50 billion in the first three months Chinese Customs statistics reveal that in the first three months of this year, China’s foreign trade amounted to US$859.37 billion, representing a year-on-year growth of 7.3%. Of this sum, the country’s exports totaled US$430.02 billion, up by 7.6% from a year ago, while its imports reached US$429.35 billion, up by 6.9% year on year, and this contributed to a cumulative trade surplus of US$670 million. By product, China’s exports in textile and garments reached US$50.1 billion, up by 2.9% year on year. Of this sum, US$29.57 billion was from garment export, and US$20.44 billion from textile exports, representing increases of 3.9% and 1.4% respectively as compared with the same period of last year. In March alone, its garment exports reached US$10.29 billion, up by 18.7% year on year and by 88.8% from the previous month. Meanwhile, its textile exports were valued at US$8.5 billion, a 7.6% growth compared with March 2011 and a significant 99.5% increase compared with the previous month. Vietnam Vinatex announces profit target of US$117 million by 2015 The Vietnam National Textile and Apparel Group (Vinatex) recently announced its ambitious net profit target of US$117 million (VND 2,434.3 billion) by 2015 according to its plan for development in 2011-2015 period, which has been approved by Vietname’s Prime Minister in early April. To obtain such target, the Vinatex will execute a number of projects, including new and expansion ones towards improving its production capacity, bolstering share in the domestic market, developing a sustainable trend as well as intergrating into regional economy. In addition, the company will be equitized by 2012 to attract more investment capital, and expand its area of cotton plantation up to 50,000 hectares by 2015. Texhong to build US$300 million spinning complex in Vietnam The Quang Ninh province in northern Vietnam recently granted an investment license to Texhong Ngan Long Limited Company, a subsidiary of the Hong Kong-headquartered Texhong Textile Group, for building a spinning complex with the investment of about US$300 million. Located in the Hai Yen Industrial Zone, Mong Cai city, the complex will be equipped with advanced technology, and is expected to have annual yarn capacity of 140,000 tons and to recruit about 6,800 workers. The project will be divided into three phases. The capacity of phase one is around 54,000 tons/year, that of phase two 37,800 tons/year and that of phase three in excess of 46,000 tons/year. The construction of phase one is planned to start in late 2012, and the whole complex is expected to be in operation in October 2017. According to Li Ke Dong, CEO of Texhong Ngan Long, 80% of its products will be for exports, including 60% to China and 20% to the EU, and most of its cotton used for the complex will be imported from the US and India. Texhong Textile Group is currently operating a large textile plant in Nhon Trach Industrial Zone, Dong Nai province in southeastern Vietnam. FLA to help enhance CSR in Vietnamese textile and garment industry The US-based Fair Labor Association (FLA) has signed a two-year deal with the Vietnam Chamber of Commerce and Industry (VCCI) for a project on enhancing management of corporate social responsibility (CSR) in the key industries of Vietnam, including textile, garment and footwear industries. The project, which is funded by US Department of State, will support 50 textile, garment and footwear plants located in six Vietnamese cities and provinces, namely namely Hanoi, Thai Binh, Hai Duong, Dong Nai, Long An and Binh Duong. Besdies the FLA and the VCCI, some other govermental offices and social organizations would involve in the project execution, including the Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs (MOLISA) and Vietnam General Confederation. The project is expected to help improve Vietnamese labor’s working conditions, better promote the workers’ rights, and promote sustainability. It will help experts to study the results and offer professional advice to central and local policy-making agencies. Garment workers strike for pay rise On April 13, hundreds of garment workers of Dai Minh Limited Company, a garment manufacturer for exports located in Hoa Cam Industrial Park, Da Nang city, went on a strike to request for raising their minimum wage. According to the workers, their minimum wage is too low and their payment per produced product is reduced from VND 7,000 (about US$0.33) per product to VND 5,000 (about US$0.23) per product. Besides, they said that the salary payment is always late, and they usually have to work over time. The local government of the Da Nang city requested the company to raise their minimum wage and improve the working conditions. Thailand Thailand aims to be ASEAN’s textile and garment design and trade center The Thailand Textile Institute (THTI) has set the development plan of 2012-16 for the ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 11 - GROZ-BECKERT KGAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 12 - Industry News Thai textile and garment industry. The plan requires the industry to develop in a way that favors the environment by adopting green production modes, introducing advanced technology, and enhancing labor’s skills, in order to minimize pollution, comply with Europe’s eco-labels and reduce production costs. The development plan aims to transform Thailand into the textile and garment design center and trade center in the ASEAN region, boost the growth rate of the Thai textile and garment industry to 8%, and raise its exports to US$2.4 billion. In 2011, Thailand’s textile and garment exports totaled US$8.26 billion, representing a year-on-year increase of 7.5%. Of this sum, its exports to the ASEAN market reached US$1.55 billion, up by 13.5%, while its exports to the EU and the US were valued at US$1.45 billion (+2.3%) and US$1.4 billion (+7.8%) respectively. Thailand’s exports to Japan amounted to US$728 million, up by 36.6%, while it exported US$460 million worth of textiles and garments to China, up by 17.7%. Indonesia Indonesia’s draft decree setting out standards for babies’ and children’s clothing The Indonesian Ministry of Industry has published a draft decree that states that all fabrics used in the production of clothing for babies and children aged less than 36 months, imported or Indonesian produced, must comply with the Indonesian National Standard (abbreviated SNI) requirements, and such products will require a Product Certificate with the SNI Mark, which must be present on all babies’ and children’s clothing, according to information of Swiss testing and certification company SGS for the media. Children’s and babies’ clothing products distributed in Indonesia that originate domestically or are imported must meet the requirements in SNI 7617:2010. These requirements are designed to increase the overall quality of clothing produced while providing consumers with rigorous safety protections and establishing fair trade in competition. The Product Certification Body (LSPro) tasked with issuing an SNI product certificate will be appointed by the Indonesian Ministry of Industry, and accredited by the National Accreditation Body of Indonesia (KAN). To be accredited to certify, an LSPro will need to demonstrate that there has been comprehensive testing of the conformity of a products quality against SNI requirements and implementation of the Quality Management System (QMS) SNI ISO 9001-2008 or other recognized quality management system by way of an audit. Product testing in accordance with SNI 7617:2010 can only be undertaken by laboratories with the capacity to test for azo dyes and formaldehyde content in fabric used for babies’ and children’s clothing, according to SGS, and the SNI requirements state that no toxic azo dyes can be present in fabrics used for the manufacture of clothing classified for either babies or children up to 36 months. Besides, formaldehyde levels cannot be higher than 20mg per kg for fabrics used to produce children’s clothing up to 36 months and 75 mg per kg for fabrics used in clothing for children aged over 36 months. Further to this, SNI marking requirements necessitate that the information for babies’ and children’s clothing must contain the name of the brand, the type and composition of fiber used, the country of origin and the designation as either a babies’ or children’s garment. Testing laboratories based overseas will require accreditation that is recognized by an APLAC / ILAC agreement between KAN and that respective country’s accreditation body, adds the Swiss company. Additionally the Indonesian government must have bilateral or multilateral agreements in the field of technical regulations with that particular laboratory’s government. Auditing of the implementation of a QMS is based on the Institute of Quality Certification’s guidelines toward guaranteeing quality, accredited either by KAN or an overseas exporting territory’s accreditation body, which has signed a Mutual Recognition Arrangement with KAN, says SGS. South Asia India India disallows additional cotton exports Indian Textile and Commerce Minister Anand Sharma announced on April 9 that India will not permit additional cotton exports. Mr Sharma was quoted by saying that “until further orders, there will not be any fresh registrations”, after a review meeting by a panel of government officials on the issue of cotton export from India. Vidarbha Janandolan Samiti (VJAS), a group representing Indian cotton farmers, has reacted strongly against India’s recent decision. Its President Kishore Tiwari said that Indian domestic demand is just about 20 million bales (170kg each), while the national production is 33 million bales (170kg each). He demanded that export restrictions should be removed. India’s textile ministry plans to build strategic cotton reserve As the Reserve Bank of India (RBI) is not keen on making efforts to bail the Indian textile industry out of its debts, the Textile Ministry of the country is proposing the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) to buy 2.5 million bales of cotton at an appropriate time to create a strategic reserve of cotton for exclusive sales to mills. The proposal will be sent to the Finance Ministry for a detailed discussion and necessary approval, sources said. The reserve will ensure raw material supplies to mills and help stabilize prices in times of shortage, said a senior textile industry executive of India. Domestic cotton prices flared up to a record Rs 70,000 a candy, of 356kg each, in 2010-11 ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 13 - Industry News on a global shortage before easing to Rs 35,000 per candy now. Several Indian textile mills have been under serious debts owing to a sudden fall in product prices after two successive years of rise in raw material costs. Demand started to decrease suddenly from last April as an approaching economic slowdown later aggravated into a sustained crisis in the EU and the US, which together account for around 65% of India’s textile exports. India, the world’s second-largest cotton producer, needs to have a long-term policy on maintaining reserves if it wants to face Chinese competition in textile exports, said the executive. China, despite being the world’s largest cotton producer, does not allow exports of the raw material to keep supplies for its textile mills steady. It also holds the world’s biggest cotton reserve and offloads stocks periodically to control raw material prices in the local market. “The strategic reserve is a very good concept, but the quantity is low. Mills consume more than 2 million bales of cotton a month, so at least 6 million bales of cotton should be kept in the reserve to make any significant impact on the market in the form of price stabilization. Moreover, it should be a dynamic reserve, which will intervene appropriately looking at the market realities,” said DK Nair, Secretary General of the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry. The market is slowly picking up, but most textile units do not have adequate working capital to manufacture products and cater for growing demand, Mr Nair said. Lack of electricity supplies in Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh has just exacerbated the problem, he added. In November last year, India’s Commerce and Textile Minister Anand Sharma sought a moratorium for two years from July 1, 2011, on the repayment of the principal amounts by the capital-intensive textile units, which account for 90% of the industry’s loans, and a one-year moratorium for other textile segments. The textile ministry also suggested a 2% interest subsidy to the garments as well as knitwear sectors. However the central bank does not seem too keen about it. Indian budget promotes technical textiles sector India’s budget for 2012-13 recently presented by the Finance Minister Pranab Mukherjee will have beneficial effects on the country’s technical textiles sector. To encourage local small- and medium-sized enterprises to venture into value-added textiles and technical textiles, a venture capital scheme of Rs5,000 crore (about US$1 billion) has been set up under the name of India Opportunities Venture Fund. The geotextiles sector gets a boost with an investment of Rs500 crore (US$100 million), and this plan will focus on the northeastern region of the country, while the hygiene sector benefits from the reduction of the basic custom duties on the materials for manufacture of adult diapers to 5% with 6% Countervailing Duty (CVD). Besides, special CVD has been withdrawn. While aramid yarns and fabrics are exempt from basic custom duties, automatic shuttleless looms, which are used for the production of technical fabrics, are exempt from the 5% basic customs duty. Pakistan Pakistan’s textile machinery imports drop by 58% Owing to Pakistan’s sharp decrease in textile exports and production capacity, caused by the bad law and order situation in the country and worsened by a deep energy crisis, textile machinery imports to Pakistan slumped by 58% in March, compared with the same month of last year. “Manufacturers have started exporting the existing functioning machinery to Bangladesh because Pakistan has growing issues of energy shortfall and routine violence in Karachi,” said former Chairman of the Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA), Saleem Parekh. He questioned how the manufacturing units in Karachi and Punjab could expand their size when everyday violence and worst electricity and gas (Continued on p87) AD: BENNINGER AG ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 14 - Industry News Association News Maintaining the technological leadership In view of the problem of piracy, the solution is continuous R&D to maintain the technological leadership of German machinery suppliers For the time being, the Euro debt crisis is still under the spotlight, and is said to have hit European countries really hard. Germany, however, is less affected compared with other countries of the Euro-zone in general, and still has a strong economy, says the Germany-based VDMA Textile Machinery Association. But it stresses that so far a happy ending of this sovereign debt crisis in Europe is not in sight, and it is still unclear whether and how the European banking system will be affected. “Until now, the crisis had no severe consequences for our member companies as our industry predominantly exports its products outside the Euro-zone,” says Thomas Waldmann, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Machinery Association. There were no significant changes in German textile machinery makers’ export markets in the past year compared with 2010, according to the association. “China, Turkey, India, the US and Brazil are still our top five markets despite occasional changes within this ranking. Our general exports in 2011 increased by 23% to 3.3 billion euros year-on-year. The exports to China crossed the one-billion-line for the first time to reach 1.17 billion euros. “It is also worth mentioning that the Turkish market performed very well last year. Our exports to the market increased by more than 50% to reach nearly 300 million euros. After some weak years, the Turkish textile sector is definitely back on track. VDMA Textile Machinery Association will organize the next conference on production technology for technical textiles in Turkey,” notes Mr Waldmann, adding that “the markets performed well so far, and we expect the stable business to continue.” Textile Machinery Association Germany Textile Machinery Exports in 2011 (in milllion euros) Spinning Machinery 1,369 +36.0% Weaving Machinery 207 +3.2% Knitting and Hosiery Machinery 1,004 +19.8% Finishing Machinery, including Washing, Bieaching and Dyeing 730 +13.4% Caption: German textile machinery exports in 2011 Continuous efforts on R&D Product piracy and increased competition from China have presented challenges for German textile machinery makers, according to the German association. “VDMA member companies’ answer to these challenges is continuous high expenditures in R&D, because preserving the technological leadership is the key to success. And these efforts for technological development and highest quality are appreciated by the market: Textile producers in Asia and elsewhere relying on German technology know that the competitive advantages of German textile machinery become evident, if one takes a look in a machine’s product life cycle and the accumulating costs,” says Mr Waldmann. He adds that besides the costs for acquisition, installation and start-up, there are many expense factors to examine: Costs for maintenance, service and repair - but also for energy and operating, production waste and so on. “Due to low maintenance charges, reliability in production as well as energy efficiency the initial investment for a German textile machine pays off after a few years.” Caption: Thomas Waldmann, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Machinery Association VDMA and its member companies will showcase sustainable and innovative solutions and success stories at the forthcoming ITMA ASIA 2012 in Shanghai. “German technology significantly contributes to increase the energy and material efficiency in the production process. It is evident that textile production processes must be as efficient and environmentally-friendly as possible. For this reason the German manufacturers of textile machinery have committed themselves to the VDMA Blue Competence sustainability initiative,” stresses Mr Waldmann. Currently, many textile manufacturers in different countries outside Europe and the US are interested in producing higher value-added products, e.g. in the area of technical textiles, and so the functional innovative products must fulfill highest requirements in terms of quality and reliability, according to him. “That is what German technology stands for: high quality starts with the right spinning preparation technology, and goes on to the production line of the fabric and its finishing process.” ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 15 - KERN-LIEBERSAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 16 - Frontline Recycling resources opens new door to sustainability and profitability by Staff Reporters Considering the scarcity of resources which presents a challenge to the textile industry, it has become apparent that recycling resources is a right answer. Some textile machinery makers, such as Benninger and Laroche, have introduced technology that can help manufacturers recycle their resources, some companies see the trend of recycling resources as opportunity for further growth. ATA Journal presents some latest resources-recycling technology, recycled raw materials, as well as how companies adopt recycling resources as a business strategy. Advanced resources-recycling technology According to Swiss supplier of textile finishing and cord production ranges Benninger, the new option for recycling resources can be opened up by recycling waste water using filtration techniques. Modern chemical- and temperature-resistant ceramic membranes are increasing the availability of these techniques in the textile industry, and the company has been active in this area since 2008. It notes that the recycling rate of up to 90% of the accumulated quantity of waste water does more than just help the environmental balance. The purified waste water can be used in all areas of textile production. Although membrane filtration systems are electrically operated, the overall energy balance and therefore the carbon footprint is reduced by around 12%. Under certain circumstances it is now already possible to run waste water free textile operations (so-called ‘zero discharge’). On the other hand, Laroche, French supplier of equipment for processing fibers, and technologies for recycling and nonwovens, notes that in the textile industry, each operation of the complete cycle, from fiber preparation to garment making, generates substantial amounts of waste. Seeing the pressing need to resolve the rampant environmental problems and the shortage of raw materials, French Laroche has been dedicated to R&D of the textile waste recycling technology, and has achieved great progresses. The company has recently introduced its JUMBO tearing lines with improved throughput and special devices for the recycling of postconsumer clothing and carpet waste. It has also launched the new “FLEXILOFT plus” Airlay technology with improved web uniformity and weight range which can run all types of fibers such as synthetics, natural, and recycled, and blends of fibers and solid particles such as foam chips, plastics, and wood chips, allowing manufacturers to make smart products from renewable resources and from wastes that are otherwise discarded. Caption: Laroche JUMBO tearing lines The French company notes that their application fields include nonwoven products for building insulation, automotive, bedding, furniture and floor coverings, geotextiles, sound and thermal insulation, horticultural, open-end using recycled fibers, natural fibers products (nonwovens and yarns), short staple bast fibers for spinning, nonwoven and paper, disposable products, pillows and toys stuffing, and technical products. Turning waste into a new raw material To recycle everyday waste to become a new raw material is how companies were inspired to produce PET recycled fibers. Taiwanese Libolon is a PET recycled fiber supplier. Its RePET is a new recycled yarn textile manufactured from used PET bottles. The company has developed the latest recycling technology to reuse waste, avoiding the environmental burden from discarding them in landfills. The recycling technology does not utilize virgin PTA (terephthalic acid), which is made from petroleum as its main raw material, reducing energy and carbon emissions and lowering the use of petrochemical materials. According to the Taiwanese company, its recycling process includes collection of post-consumer bottles from subcontractors; removal of bottle caps and labels; bottle crushing; material washing; sifting; and drying. The end product is white flakes, provided as raw materials for re-polymerization. During the fabric manufacturing process, the dyeing engineering stage involves the highest degree of energy consumption and waste creation. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 17 - SWISSMEMAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 18 - Frontline Utilizing the advantages of a vertically integrated manufacturing system, Libolon has developed a new process whereby various specific pigments are injected into the polymers during the spinning process to create various colored polyester yarn, called Ecoya. The Ecoya series of eco-friendly products was designed based on reducing energy use, greenhouse gases emissions, and water and chemical consumption by eliminating the dyeing process. By omitting the dyeing process, discharged water waste can be significantly decreased, reducing the overall environmental load. Across the globe, in the mid 2000s, the US-based company Unifi developed Repreve, a 100% recycled polyester product that is said to perform as well as virgin fibers. Over the years, Repreve has evolved from a single product into a family of recycled fibers. To improve the availability of recycled raw materials and significantly increase the company’s product capabilities, Unifi will invest in backward integration of the Repreve supply chain. In addition to providing greater control over the production of the recycled chip that is used to make Repreve polyester fibers, the new recycling technology will provide opportunities for the company to recycle post-consumer and post-industrial fabric waste back into Repreve. Resources recycling as a business strategy A number of companies are taking a forward step to make resources recycling as a part of their business strategies. Japanese Teijin Group, for instance, recently announced that the first program in China for collecting and recycling used uniform was launched in collaboration with Shandong Asahi Green Source Hi-Tech Farm Co Ltd and Shandong Asahi Green Source Milk Products Co Ltd, both subsidiaries of Asahi Group Holdings. The uniform will be recycled using Teijin’s Eco Circle, an environmentally friendly closed-loop system incorporating its technology for the chemical recycling of polyester introduced in 2002. As part of the program, Teijin Fibers’ chemically recyclable polyester fiber is woven into textiles and dyed by Nantong Teijin Co Ltd, a Teijin Group company in Nantong on the east coast of China. This month, high-warmth uniforms made with the recyclable textile were distributed to some 200 employees of the two companies based in Shandong Province, also on the east coast, which produce and sell vegetables, fruits and milk. Caption: A Shandong Asahi’s staffer wearing a uniform produced by Teijin Group made with recyclable textile As explained, uniforms will be collected after their useful lives and sent to Teijin Fibers’ Matsuyama plant in Japan. After chemical decomposition, they will be converted into polyester raw materials offering purity comparable to polyester derived directly from petroleum. The raw materials will then be turned into high-quality polyester for the manufacture of new recyclable products. Repeated recycling achieved with the Eco Circle system is said to significantly reduce both energy consumption and carbon dioxide emissions compared with conventional petroleum-based processes for polyester production. Teijin said that it is working with more than 150 apparel and sportswear manufacturers worldwide to develop and manufacture products made from recyclable materials, as well as to collect and recycle these products at the end of their useful lives. The manufacturers include well-known brands such as Patagonia, Henri Lloyd and Quiksilver. In China, Teijin has been collaborating with Li Ning since 2009. “We are pleased to collaborate with Asahi Group Holdings’ two Shandong Asahi Green Source subsidiaries under a mutual commitment to sustainability through recycling,” commented Hirotaka Nakagawa, President of Nantong Teijin. “With environmental consciousness steadily rising in China, Teijin is witnessing a growing interest in its Eco Circle programme.” Meanwhile, recycling raw materials during manufacturing are without doubt the key drivers for new automotive fabric developments right now. Ford, for example, is now using recycled cotton, such as post-consumer denim jeans, in the interior of its 2012 focus as part of carpet backing and sound absorption material. Carrie Majeske, the auto group’s Product Sustainability Manager said: “One of our key goals is to use more recycled or renewable materials without compromising performance or durability. Recycled content is a way to divert waste from landfills and reduce the impact of using virgin material.” Ford’s “reduce, reuse and recycle” commitment is part of the company’s broader global sustainability strategy to reduce its environmental footprint while at the same time accelerating the development of advanced, fuel-efficient vehicle technologies around the world. Over the past few years, Ford has concentrated on increasing the use of non-metal recycled and bio-based materials, including soy foam seat cushions, recycled resins for under-body systems, recycled yarns on seat covers and natural fiber plastic for interior components. The company says its vehicles continue to become more eco-friendly through the creative use of renewable and recycled materials. “The good news is these jeans did not end up in a landfill, nor did we use the water, fertilizer and land to grow virgin cotton,” said Majeske. The amount of post-consumer cotton from blue jeans used in a vehicle amounts to around two pairs of average-sized American jeans, based on a kilogram of cotton used per meter of denim and the meters of denim used to make a pair of jeans. “Great fuel economy is our first priority for reducing the vehicle’s impact on the environment,” said Majeske. “As we deliver that, we seek to use materials inside a vehicle that reduce the environmental impact as well.” ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 19 - SWISSMEMAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 20 - Frontline ITM 2012 Review Bridging any cultural gaps Europe’s last frontier for textile manufacturing is opening up new market opportunities for all, reports Adrian Wilson from ITM 2012 in Istanbul As Clement Woon, who became the new CEO of Oerlikon Textile in January this year, remarked Turkey is the last frontier of textile manufacturing in the Western World. It is also very much the bridge between Europe and Asia, and as such, well poised to promote worthwhile business relations between the two. Speaking at his new company’s ITM 2012 textile machinery show press conference in Istanbul, Mr Woon added that the Turkish market is currently very vibrant and has been helped by producing a lot of its own cotton. “In general, the textile industry was significantly impacted by the instability of cotton prices during 2011, but in the last few months this has stabilized,” he said. Mr Woon’s appointment reflects the general shift of Oerlikon’s top management to Asia recently – ultimately reflecting the demographic of today’s textile industry in general. Caption: Oerlikon Textile’s management team at ITM (left to right) Clement Woon, Gerard Küsters and Daniel Lippuner WINGS for PA6 At ITM 2012, Oerlikon Barmag introduced its new WINGS POY (partially oriented yarn) filament winder for polyamide six (PA 6). This, said Stefan Kross, Head of Oerlikon Manmade Fibres, has the same advantages as the system introduced last year for PET, with speeds of up to 4,500 metres per minute possible. So far, Oerlikon has also sold some 2,000 positions of its WINGS FDY (fully drawn yarn) units, filling the order book for this new machine until 2012. In respect of spinning, Gerard Küsters of Oerlikon’s Textile Spinning business, added that more than 150 Autocoro 8 rotor spinning machines have also already been sold since they were launched last year. For its components business, Daniel Lippuner remarked that Oerlikon opened its first-ever regional store in Istanbul during 2009 and was launching around 15 new products this year. Corlu expertise A number of Turkey’s own machinery builders, meanwhile, are now looking to give the established technology brands a run for their money. The Çorlu region of Turkey, about an hour’s drive from Istanbul, is home to around 1,000 textile manufacturers, all of whom are comparatively young, having emerged in the past 30 years or so, primarily to exploit opportunities in the domestic and West European markets, and to avoid the infrastructural and high cost implications of being based in Istabul itself. With such a big cluster base of customers – and it’s not the only one in Turkey – local machine builders have had plenty to keep them busy over the past few decades. Now, however, they are increasingly looking beyond the local markets, and with an emphasis on high quality, too. HAS Group It was to Çorlu during the ITM show (which took place from April 21-24) that a delegation of international journalists was taken to visit the plants of the HAS Group, and also to see its machines in operation at the mill of a customer. Founded in 1987, HAS not only builds its own textile machinery, but its subsidiary MT is one of the leading metal processors, so these really are in-house and built-from-scratch systems, with no sub-supplying or contracting out. In addition, HAS has now established a very successful worldwide service network, so unsurprisingly, its sales are increasingly becoming international. Fittingly, HAS had one of the biggest stands at ITM 2012, where it introduced its latest RAM-X2 fabric stenter. Caption: HAS Group’s RAM-X2 stenter on display in Istanbul ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 21 - STORK PRINTS B.V. ROTARY SCREEN PRINTINGAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 22 - Frontline ITM 2012 Review The key to the RAM-X2’s design has been in building on the experience gained with users of the first RAM-X machine – many of these virtually on the doorstep in Corlu – to improve the increasing machine consumption costs customers now face as the price of energy continues to rise. “We don’t make standard machines at all,” said Ayca Hasbay, Managing Director of the MT operations, “but tailor-made models, working hand in hand with our customers. She added that the company was now manufacturing around 140 machines per year, with a turnover of €17.5 million achieved in 2011 on target to hit €20 million this year. “At HAS Group, our target is to improve the image of Turkish machine manufacturers,” added HAS area sales manager Metin Zorlu. “To achieve this we need to do two things – provide high quality machines and ensure they keep operational. For these reasons we pay keen attention to domestic and foreign service networks and make serious investments. We are improving the image of Turkish machine manufacturing and invite others to do the same.” Energy consumption Turkish textile manufacturers have a clear advantage in respect of energy consumption and CO₂emissions, according to Jürgen Ströhle of Swiss finishing machinery manufacturer Benninger. While in Europe, gas and light oil are the primary energy sources, he said, in Asia coal is usually preferred. CO₂emissions from natural gas, however, are only around 50% of those produced when coal is used. In Turkey it is common to use gas for heating steam boilers and thermal oil boilers. In respect of secondary energy sources – particularly electricity – Turkey is one of those leading the field. Caption: Benninger promoted the eco-benefits of its Trikoflex system for Turkish knitwear producers Countries with heavy CO₂emissions are those in which electricity is generated from coal-fired thermal power stations. According to national statistics from the Turkish Electricity Transmission for 2011, approximately 40% of electricity is generated from gas-fired thermal power stations, more than 30% from hydro-electric power stations and no less than 3% from wind power stations. This means that in respect of CO₂emissions per kWh of electricity, Turkey is one of those countries leading the field worldwide. “CO₂emissions are caused directly by the energy consumption and indirectly by the consumables such as chemicals, lubricants etc.,” said Mr Ströhle. “The distribution of CO₂ emissions in a fully continuous textile finishing process for cotton textiles shows that about 50% comes from drying, 40% from washing and steaming and 10% from the use of chemicals.” In knitwear finishing using the exhaust process, the largest part of emissions – 60% – is caused by heating the water. Continuous processing In the 1990s, manufacturers in Turkey already realised that the consumption of resources could be drastically reduced by using continuous finishing processes for woven fabrics. This step – which is associated with considerable investment – has made Turkey one of the leading textile processing countries worldwide. There was, however, some reluctance in implementing this step among Turkish knitwear producers. The current energy situation though, provides a strong impetus for doing so, Benninger believes. “A number of different approaches are possible, both for knitwear and for woven fabrics and it’s important to take the entire value-creation chain into account,” said Mr Ströhle. “This starts with the selection of the fibre material. As a result of the progressive worldwide scarcity of agricultural land and the fluctuation in cotton prices, regenerated synthetic fibres such as viscose and Tencel have recently gained significant market share and also impressed with their ecological footprint. In fully integrated fibre factories, it is already possible to produce CO₂-neutral synthetic fibres. “When it comes to spinning the yarn, OE or airjet spinning processes are preferable to ring spinning from the point of view of energy consumption.” As a textile production process, knitting is also more favorable than weaving, while there is no significant difference in the further processing of these different textiles. “As far as the ecological footprint of dyeing factories and finishing works is concerned, knitwear from regenerated synthetic fibres has significant advantages from an environmental point of view,” Mr Ströhle said. “Modern machinery, however, is a prerequisite. Most Turkish dyeing works are familiar with viscose/elastane single jersey fabrics made from OE yarn. These articles do not require the classic pre-treatment that is needed for cotton since they don’t need to be bleached. All that’s needed is a low tension pre-wash for the removal of spinning oil.” The continuous pre-treatment concept used by Benninger involves an impregnation, emulsification and wash process on the company’s Trikoflex drum wash compartments. During the emulsifying phase, the chemically-saturated knitwear is placed in loops onto a dwelling system. The micro-movement of the individual loops ensures that the knits are continually loosened and promotes free relaxation, at the same time preventing the formation of creases. Hydroshrinkage As a result, the bi-directional shrinkage of the material is greatly improved. “It is well-known that so-called ‘hydroshrinkage’ is significantly ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 23 - Frontline ITM 2012 Review stronger and longer lasting than thermal shrinkage, e.g. using hot air,” said Mr Ströhle. “Whether with or without a subsequent thermal fixing process, the stretch and elastic recovery of the material is retained, even following several household wash cycles and wear and the fit of the garments is retained.” Another advantage of the prewash process is that the emission of silicone and mineral knitting oils during the fixing process of unwashed knitwear is avoided. The black smoke in the exhaust air from the stenter frame is a thing of the past. The Benninger plant concept is based on modules and is available for a daily production of up to 25 tonnes per day. The ‘all in one’ module for a production of 2-4 daily tonnes per day is available at a reasonable price, the company says. Digital surprise At ITM 2012 – coming as it did, so soon after the European ITMA in Barcelona last September – there were few real technology surprises. One, however, was Italian-Austrian company Durst’s rapid succcess with its Kappa 180 digital printing system. First introduced at last year’s ITMA in Barcelona, this machine is not only characterised by impressive performance – the QuadroZ printhead with its 6,144 jets per colour produces a resolution of up to 1,680 dpi – but also its ecological performance. Caption: Durst’s Kappa 180 has rapidly gained acceptance with Turkish textile printers With this system, water consumption can be reduced by up to 90% compared with conventional printing methods and only a fraction of the chemicals are also required. The production of printing screens becomes much less expensive and they are immediately reproducible through the elimination of the pre-printing processes. With Durst’s Costview software, the printer’s precise production costs can be calculated for each order, including ink, material, power and CO₂emissions for each production stage. On the very first day of the ITM show, Durst announced that it had secured three new orders from Turkish companies. Kral, Turbo Textile and Akteks will all be taking delivery of the Kappa 180 system in the coming months. There were many such new success stories being trumpeted at ITM – as the hub show for the Middle East region. The show was organized by Teknik Fuarcılık, Yayıncılık ve Reklamcılık Tic Ltd Şti and TÜYAP Tüm Fuarcılık Yapım AŞ, and supported by the Textile Machinery and Accessories Manufacturers Association (TEMSAD). ■ AD: CLARIANT AG ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 24 - ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITEDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 25 - ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITEDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 26 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012: Expanded despite challenging economic climate by Staff Reporters Despite current challenges in the economic climate, owners of the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012, which will be held during June 12-16, say that they have booked additional exhibition space at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC) to meet exhibitors’ demand. Stephen Combes, President of the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX), comments: "Response to this year’s combined show is beyond our expectations. The strong demand for space attests to the effectiveness and popularity of the combined show as well as the resilience of the textile and textile machinery industry. “We already had a long waitlist for space by the deadline for applications, and therefore made the decision to book the remaining space available in the venue to enable us to accommodate around 80 companies on our waitlist.” With the additional 6,000sq m of exhibition space, the show will now gross over 132,000sq m, 30% larger than the previous event in 2010, and more than 1,230 exhibitors from 27 countries and regions will take part, according to the owners. Wang Shutian, President of the China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), said, “Interest in the combined show remains extremely strong, especially from Chinese textile machinery manufacturers. As China’s textile industry continues to transform, the demand for advanced machinery and technology is on the rise. This is also reflected in the current uptrend in textile machinery trade.” China Customs statistics reveal that China’s textile machinery foreign trade registered a year-on-year growth of 25.6% to reach US$7.6 billion in 2011. Of this sum, exports amounted to US$2.25 billion while imports totaled US$5.36 billion. Caption: A snapshot of the previous edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME To boost visitors’ participation, overseas promotional activities on ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 were previously held in Bangladesh, India and Russia. Besides, visits to Vietnam, Pakistan and Indonesia have also been scheduled. In China, an intensive roadshow covering Fujian, Guangdong, Henan and Shandong provinces is also underway. Associations’ active participation At the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 exhibition, a total of eight French textile machinery and components makers will present their products. According to Bruno Ameline, President of the French Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association (UCMTF), French machinery manufacturers are offering less standard machines but more tailor-made solutions designed with their customers and partners. “These solutions enable customers to introduce new products with high added value, and compete successfully in their own national market, and in the open world,” he noted. At the fair, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association of Germany will present the sustainability initiative Blue Competence in the Asia market. VDMA has developed the initiative Blue Competence for the whole range of its machinery industry. Blue Competence explains and positions the machinery manufacturers as the technical problem-solvers regarding the requirements of saving energy, material and resources. In the framework of Blue Competence initiative, the VDMA member companies will showcase their energy-efficient solutions at the exhibition. The VDMA energy efficiency guide “Conserving resources – securing savings-potential” will also be distributed in Chinese language at the fair. In this guide, the determining factors for a comparing assessment of the energy efficiency of textile machinery have been worked out. The guide aims to help put the discussion about energy efficiency on a solid basis. ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 is organized by the Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd, and co-organized by MP International Pte Ltd. It is owned by the CEMATEX, the Sub-Council of Textile Industry of The China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT TEX), the CTMA, and the China International Exhibition Center Group Corp (CIEC). ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 27 - KARL MAYER MASCHINENFABRIK GMBHAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 28 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Highlights from exhibitors Biancalani E1 C30 Italian BIANCALANI srl will present at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 its new machines for finishing of woven and knitted fabrics. The company will demonstrate a portion of the AIRO24, continuous tumble dryer in open width for woven and knitted fabrics, a vast selection of fabrics samples that demonstrate new finishing effects and the versatility of the Biancalani machines. Caption: Biancalani’s AIRO24 It also notes that it’s been a year since the company Biancalani and his agent in China, Santex Shanghai Textile Machinery Company Ltd have cooperated, which has reached good results in the interest of the Chinese customers. Bräcker W2 C01 Swiss Bräcker will present high quality components for ring spinning machines, such as BERKOL supergrinder and TRITON Spinning-Rings. The new BERKOL supergrinder is a totally re-engineered concept, based on experience with the BERKOL BGS machines and incorporating the latest electronics technology, as well as adapting to the latest requirements of today’s spinning technology. The company says that its grinding capacity is over 350 top rollers / hour, up by 50%. With user-friendly touch-screen panel, its storage capacity is up to 450 top rollers with 32 mm diameter and it can achieve 10% of electricity consumption. It will also present its TRITON Spinning-Rings for wet flax spinning. The TRITON surface coating combines abrasion and chemical wear resistance. TRITON rings are specially designed for the wet spinning of flax fibers over the full yarn count range.The TRITON coating features advantages such as smooth and even surface properties, long traveller life and excellent yarn quality, high wear resistance against abrasion, and favourable price / performance ratio. Caption: Bräcker’s BERKOL supergrinder grinding machine Bräcker will also exhibit its accessories such as ORBIT spinning rings and the relevant travellers, PYRIT and ZIRKON travellers for especially demanding applications, as well as cost-saving tools such as the Bräcker RAPID for easy and time saving insertion of travellers, and BERKOL-Cots and Aprons. Brückner E2 G05 German machinery and line producer Brückner will present its innovations at the fair, with highlights on energy efficiency, intelligent textiles and technical applications. Its nonwovens lines portfolio comprises among other things flat and vertical dryers, Airlaid lines und high-temperature ovens for the finishing of geo-textiles, wipes, filter media, automotives and much more. The company will present the benefits of the new double belt thermofusion oven for the finishing of voluminous and highly-compacted non-wovens. The line works very effectively and with minimum energy consumption. State-of-the-art technology and advanced control systems as well as a robust construction with long service life are self-evident. Caption: Brückner’s nonwovens bonding oven In coatings, the company supplies finishing and coating lines for very different applications and end products, for example airbags, light protection material, tarpaulin, grinding cloth, artificial leather, canvas and sport clothing. Whether screen or slop-pad coater, powder dispersion unit or full bath impregnating, floating knife or roll over cylinder coating machine, it has a tailor-made solution for customer. The company highlights that its lines are working with the utmost energy efficiency and with the highest possible precision regarding temperature distribution, air circulation and coating application. With its newly developed systems, users can save up to 35 % of energy depending on the process and the machine configuration, says the company. Heat-recovery systems for example pay back already from the first day and are a good investment for the future. At the fair, the company will present its latest system. With its new ECO-HEAT heat-recovery, users will benefit with highly efficient plate fin heat-exchangers with anti-adhesion coating of their optimum power density. Dornier E3 F01 German textile machinery maker Lindauer Dornier GmbH will present its weaving machines. The rapier weaving machine P1 PTS 4/S C, nominal width 220 cm, with a heavy filter fabric for the technical sector, and the air-jet weaving machine A1 AWS 8/S G also with nominal width 220 cm for demanding wool weavers in the clothing sector. The company’s new, pioneering and patented drive concept SyncroDrive is one of the significant components of the new Dornier system family of rapier and air-jet weaving machines. The significance of Dornier weave-by-wire will certainly be very clear on this Jacquard machine. An electric control circuit to the separate drive of the Jacquard machine replaces the cardan connection between weaving and Jacquard machines. Realization of dynamic ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 29 - TRÜTZSCHLER GMBH + CO. KG TEXTILMASCHINENFABRIKAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 30 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Caption: Dornier’s P1 PTS 4/S C rapier weaving machine, nominal width 220 cm close of shed adjustment while the machine is running meeting the demands from sophisticated weavers will be shown. The company notes that system family of rapier and air-jet weaving machines offers any solution required for the production of technical textiles as well as top quality clothing fabrics. The low-strain weft insertion makes it possible to insert extremely sensitive filling threads that are taken up contactless and without guiding elements, passed on and held securely by the positively controlled rapier head until interlacing in the open shed. With both weaving machines a high or low warp density may be set up thus enabling its customers to weave fabrics with very high densities like for example aramide or conveyer belt fabrics as well as fabrics with very low densities like for example open weave or composite fabrics. Erhardt+Leimer E3 G01 German web guiding specialist Erhardt+Leimer will present at the fair the new cutting system ELCUT BTA 80, which fully meets the requirements of knitted fabric manufacturers: Substantially reduced cutting waste, minimum maintenance, long life, and easy retrofitting of old cutting devices. There are three versions of ELCUT BTA 80: The basic version is supplied with an actuator allowing exact manual positioning via two push buttons. The second basic version includes a sensor with a captive range of +/- 3 mm. When the web width changes the sensor has to be positioned manually once, then the system automatically follows the web edge. Caption: Erhardt + Leimer ELCUT BTA 80 The premium version is supplied with a wide band sensor that has a captive range of +/- 75 mm. When the web width changes the new position of the web edge is fixed at the push of a button. Due to its wide captive range the web is always in the field view of the sensor. The company notes that the ELCUT BTA 80 system convinces through continuous concentration on customer demands, minimum maintenance effort, and high value for money. This makes the new system the ultimate solution for optimum edge trim. Fong’s W1 C1 Hong Kong-based Fong’s Group will present its continuous and discontinuous finishing machines under its brands Fong’s, Goller, Then, Xorella, Mortforts Fongs, and Fong’s Water Technology. It will present its Fong’s TEC series High Temperature Dyeing Machine, the state-of-the-art design that can meet the requirements for the ecological and environmental protection and increasing cost of energy in the global textile market. It is suitable for different dyeing process with various types of natural, synthetic, blended fibers. It will also display its latest version of the legendary THEN-AIRFLOW, the SYNERGY 500 G2, suitable for all kind of fibers (except pure wool), making it the perfect high temperature choice for every dye house. The machine with the lowest liquor ratio in the market satisfies the highest demands in terms of efficiency and ecology due to the patented AIRFLOW- technology. Caption: Fong’s MIDITEC (250kg/tube) high temperature dyeing machine with FC30 color multi-function controller In addition, it will present Goller’s new UNIVERSA conveyor dwelling compartment. In this new UNIVERSA, the conveyor belt is made of stainless steel in design which will bring a more stable condition in the transport of fabric. According to the process requirements, the dwelling time of fabric inside the UNIVERSA can be set in the process management system Goller Multidata. The UNIVERSA is connected to the filter device which can effectively filtrate the impurities and fluffs come out from the fabrics. Most worth mentioning is that the UNIVERSA has a flexible high and low liquid level adjustment device. So fabric spray washing can be used in low liquid level, but also in high liquid level for dipping washing. The company will also showcase XORELLA XO-Series energy saving vacuum conditioning and heat setting machine. The new XO-Series uses key components with uncompromised quality and excellent engineering in both performance and reliability to help the users to save the energy consumption by 15%-25%. Graf & Cie AG W2 C 01 Swiss supplier of premium components for key processes in the short staple spinning industry and nonwoven applications, Graf will present its Hipro metallic wire and resist-O-top generation of flexible flat clothing. As introduced, Hipro metallic card clothings ensure top performance and precision together with an exceptionally long working life. Hipro metallic card clothings are suitable for all standard man-made fibers in the nonwoven sector and also for wool. They can be used on the following rollers: doffer, worker, stripper and condenser rollers. These excellent, robust clothings are available with normal profile and as interlinked clothings. Caption: Graf’s Hipro metallic wire ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 31 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Besides, the resist-O-top generation of flexible flat clothings for processing of cotton, man-made, and regenerated fibers as well as for blends and swing applications is another of Graf’s innovations with a noticeable impact in the market. The resist-O-top setting pattern favors the extraction of short fibers and trash as well as the elimination of neps. This flat series is progressively set without straight gaps between the rows of teeth. Groz-Beckert E5 H01 German supplier of industrial machine needles, precision components, and systems for the production and joining of textile surfaces in various sectors, Groz-Beckert will be presenting its comprehensive range for different textile production and joining methods. Caption: Groz-Beckert CylinderMaster In the knitting sector, it will be presenting an entirely new knitting technology featuring the finest knitting cylinders in the world, as well as the finest precision components. These products enable textile production in the ultra-fine gauge E90. The spotlight will also be on the Groz-Beckert CylinderMaster, which enables especially simple, reliable and safe cylinder changeovers on single jersey circular knitting machines. In the weaving-machine components sector, Groz-Beckert will be presenting diverse healds, drop wires and high-performance heald frames. In weaving preparation, the focus will be on the fully-automatic drawing-in machine WarpMaster. The KnotMaster increases efficiency during the knotting of especially fine cotton warp. EcoStar – the new universal felting needle for extreme requirements – is a true highlight in the Nonwovens sector. As the first result of a far-reaching innovation initiative, in comparison with conventional needles it offers users longer service life combined with reduced energy consumption. Jetstrips for hydroentangled products, with process-water analysis included, are another major focus in Shanghai. In the Sewing sector, Groz-Beckert will be presenting its market-tailored sewing and joining service to industry experts. New potential in the processing of fine materials in the chainstitching sector will be delivered by the needle system UY 128 in LPC geometry (Loop Position Control). Habasit W2 F12 & E3 G10 Headquartered in Switzerland, Habasit is a producer of conveyor belts, processing belts and power transmission belts. The company will present its power transmission belts and printing blankets, among others. Its tangential belts are designed to cut power consumption to a minimum. It notes that its polyester power transmission belts, such as the TC-20/25EF and the new TC Quantum leap types (TCxxQ), deliver high performance yarn processing while consuming 4% to 6% less power compared with conventional polyamide products. Depending on local energy costs, this means annual savings of US$1 for each spindle, which in turn provides savings of up to USD 100,000 a year for a spinning mill with 100,000 spindles. Plus excellent yarn quality and maximum machine output. Easy to join and install, Habasit’s printing blankets provide outstanding repeat accuracy, perfect printing quality, a Caption: Habasit’s power transmission belt AD: ROSINK GMBH & CO. MASCHINENFABRIK ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 32 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW long service life, and high reliability. The ENU-20EXBD and ENU-20ELBD models have a polyester (PET) traction layer, with a choice of thicknesses and textures on the reverse side. The ENU-20ELBD, for example, has a low-noise fabric for use where there is a need to reduce the noise level on high-speed machines. The ENU-20ELBI compressible printing blanket allows high quality printing results on fabrics of average quality, thanks to its innovative belt concept. J Teck E2 H06 Italian producer of water-based digital inks for sublimation and direct-to-textile printing J-Teck will showcase a new direct-to-textile line based on the innovative Cluster Technology. Cluster Technology is a system through which the ink molecules are consolidated into clusters so that to pass through the piezo print heads without alteration. This gives extreme stability to the ink allowing an easy adaptation to any type of digital printers even the most sophisticated ones. In the direct-to-textile version, J-Next ink can also be used together with E.P.S. a patented system by J-Teck allowing for double-sided printing through digital technology. With the combination of these two systems, Cluster Technology and E.P.S., it will be possible to achieve a uniform colour penetration with bright and vibrant colours on the reverse side of the printed fabrics in applications where this feature is necessary such as fashion items, banners and flags. J-Teck will also display its complete production range of Ape-free disperse inks, manufactured with selected raw materials and production processes with low environmental impact. Jakob Müller E3 A10 Swiss technology provider for the manufacture of woven and knitted tapes and webbing, woven ropes, woven labels and technical textiles, printed narrow fabrics, dyeing, make-up and winding machinery, Jakob Müller AG will present a number of machines. Caption: NH2M narrow fabric needle loom for MultiSphere products Among its exhibits is MÜGRIP MBJ6 rapier loom. MÜGRIP rapier looms are exclusively developed and manufactured for label weaving. Shedding takes place via an SPE Jacquard machine with 1,536 hooks and the machine on display at ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 has 1,152 Jacquard functions. The MBJ6 is available in 4, 6, 8 and 12 weft colour versions. The universal rapier newly developed for this machine generation permits the successful use of an even greater range of yarn qualities beginning from 20 dtex. Furthermore, the new cutting elements stand for uniform label selvedge quality across the entire weaving section. All the label designs manufactured on MBJ models can be exchanged reciprocally and are 100 per cent reproducible. The new machine also employs an innovative, energy-optimised drive concept, which cuts power losses to a minimum and provides a 20 % improvement in the label weaving energy balance. It will also present its NH2M 53 electronically controlled rope weaving machine. To date, ropes have been manufactured exclusively on braiding machines. However, using MultiSphere technology ropes, with or without cores, as well as twine and cord, etc. can now be woven on both the NC2M and the electronically controlled NH2M narrow fabric needle loom. These machines are designed for a variety of rope diameters and differ from their conventional counterparts with regard to reed, fabric guide and take-off design. Sheath and core thread insertion takes place via a compensation device, which also supports the formation of a three-dimensional structure. As opposed to standard rope braiding systems, the new process stands out due to the following advantages: higher productivity; longer, knot-free items due to the extended yarn lengths available on the bobbins/warp beams as compared to braiding bobbins; and far lower production and manufacturing costs. James Heal W3 E21 The UK-based James Heal will present its latest technological innovations in textile testing. Among its exhibits is its TruBurst3 fully pneumatic bursting and 3D fatigue tester. Its inherent flexibility gives it the capacity to test a broad range of materials including textiles, nonwovens, paper, board, plastics and medical products. The non-contact laser distension measurement gives accurate results, while the adjustable clamping pressure and automatic diaphragm correction prevents any slippage or specimen damage and improves precision. TruBurst3 has intuitive cyclic software which means that both experienced and inexperienced users can operate this testing instrument with ease. It will also present its new Titan4 universal strength tester, which is designed to test textiles, nonwovens and leather in various forms. This compact desktop strength tester operates in both compression and tension and comes with a range of tool-free interchangeable specimen grips. Caption: James Heal’s TruBurst3 fully pneumatic bursting and 3D fatigue tester It is available with a choice of load cells, up to 3000N, which are supplied in cartridge form to improve protection and facilitate safe handling and storage. It has all the safety features you would expect from a universal strength tester, such as soft close grips, but is packed with intuitive features that are design to make testing simple. The company will also display its Martindale 909 nine station abrasion tester and its Elmatear2 digital tear tester, which has been extensively redesigned with a wide range of new features which offer increased value, accuracy and safety. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 33 - STÄUBLI INTERNATIONAL AGAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 34 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Jenhaur E6-E14 Taiwanese Jen-Haur specializes in producing parts and peripheral equipment for circular knitting machinery. The company will present some of its peripheral equipment for circular knitting machinery, such as its color-changing yarn feeders. As introduced, its newly developed JPF-J88-T23-H2A-CW color-changing yarn feeder can simultaneously feed several yarns with different colors and types. It features two separate yarn feeding arms which can mutually assist in equal tension control in the incoming and outgoing operation in different tension, speed and yarn feeding. The strong tension can be diverted and reduced to the amount needed for mild operation status, while breakage of yarn can be highly reduced in feeding, and smooth yarn feeding can be realized even in irregular tension status. Caption: Jenhaur’s JPF-J88 Auto-color Changing Feeder The company will also present its another color-changing yarn feeder JPF-J88-T23-CCW-DUAL, which can also simultaneously feed several yarns with different colors and types, and can reach the equal tension control at the point where different tension, speed and yarn feeding in the incoming and outgoing operation are being handled. Karl Mayer E5 B10 Karl Mayer will be exhibiting as one of the main technical pioneers and economically successful manufacturers in the field of warp knitting machines and warp preparation machines. Caption: Karl Mayer’s Jacquardtronic Lace JL 40/1F Jacquardtronic-Raschel machine Two high-speed warp knitting machines and two lace machines with new performance features in terms of efficiency and flexibility will impress them in particular. A Wefttronic with a new performance will also be demonstrating its capabilities for producing technical textiles. This raschel machine with parallel weft insertion has a working width of 213” and complements the widths of 268”, 176” and 138” that have been available until now. For the warp preparation sector, the company will be showing its new fast, versatile Nov-O-Matic 2 with Isotens creel. This automatic sectional warping machine is setting new standards in quality and productivity for producing long production warps as well as for processing batches with short running lengths. Kern-Liebers E5 A01 German Kern-Lieber Textiles will present its components at the fair. The acquisition of Saxonia Textile Parts GmbH, the Bavarian needle plate manufacturer Paul Leistner GmbH and Sächsische Nadel- und Platinenfabriken GmbH laid the foundation for subsequent steep growth Kern-Liebers Textiles, a development complemented by the acquisition of the German needle manufacturer Haase and Kühn. Caption: Kern Liebers components In addition to needles, German Kern-Liebers Textiles also offers a complete range of components for knitting and warp knitting machines. We also offer a range of products for tentering frames and combing machines. The complete Kern-Liebers range of products includes more than 55,000 needles and sinkers. The increasing number of end consumers in the knitwear and warp sector also underpins its strong market position. Kornit Digital E1 C22 Among the exhibits of Israeli digital printing solutions provider Kornit Digital at the exhibition is its Kornit Allegro roll-to-roll printer According to Kornit, the Allegro roll-to-roll printer is bringing its experience and pigment inks from the garment printing industry to the fabric industry and will lead a new revolution in textile printing. It offers print speeds of up to 280m2/hr and a print resolution of 500x500dpi, allowing the market’s fastest yet highest quality prints, the company claims. Caption: Kornit Allegro roll-to-roll printer In addition, the Allegro is equipped with Kornit’s built-in pre-treatment system PreT, which enables printing without the need for manual pre-treatment of any kind by applying a fixation agent automatically on press, immediately prior to the print process. As the company introduces, this odorless fixation agent binds inks to fabric at the same time as the printing, eliminating altogether the need for pre-treatment or steaming systems. Also, the PreT system has the ability to print on untreated fabrics, which saves time and costs associated with printing. Lacom W3 A02 At the fair, Lacom will present its Multi-Purpose Machine, which has two different application systems integrated. These systems are suitable for lamination and coating only. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 35 - ACIMIT SERVIZI SRLAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 36 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW The machine is also available as “DUPLEX” for triplex lamination. The machine is capable to laminate all kinds of woven – and knitted fabric (circular and single jersey), warp knit fabric, all sorts of foam like PU -ester -ether and aliphatic foams, all kinds of films like PTFE, PU, PET, PE and others, non-woven, spun bond / high loft, glass fiber fabrics, Kevlar / Aramid, all synthetic fabrics, fabrics from natural and animal fibers, and Velcro with Velour, and for lightweight fabric and tension sensitive material such as Spandex. All thermoplastic adhesives known in the market today can be handled. EVA, PP, PO, Co PET, Co PA, PE, TPU can be used and also the 2 existing reactive adhesives PUR (Polyurethane) and POR (Polyolefin). And its application weights can be adjusted between 3 gsm to 300 gsm (or more). The full range of technical textiles can be produced with just one machine system, and the company manufactures machines from 1.8 to 3.5 m width. It notes that because of environmental aspects, the hotmelt technology is of increasing importance, and this technology is in fact the most economical way, to improve a textile product in its quality and performance. Loepfe W2 G20 Loepfe Brothers will showcase at the fair its online quality control system YarnMaster Zenit with the new, optimized triboelectric P2 sensor, which further improves the system's precision in yarn clearing by optimized measuring algorithms and very fast signal processing. Caption: Loepfe YarnMaster Zenit with PC sensor Based on the optical and triboelectric measuring methods, the YarnMaster Zenit yarn clearer is very flexible with respect to yarn types and materials and covers the complete yarn count range with only one sensing head. Even fancy yarns are cleared efficiently using simple clearer settings. Thanks to optimized yarn path of the Zenit sensing head, there are very few abrasive effects on the yarn even when the winding speed is high. The 7-segment display built into the sensing head informs already at the spindle of the occurrences. Loepfe has upgraded the original P sensor to the P2 sensor with the latest technology in order to ensure the efficient clearing of cotton yarns and blendings. The Swiss company emphasized that the new P2 sensor, which provides controlled, reliable clearing of synthetic foreign matters, brings a number of benefits to textile producers, including better quality of end products and thus better prices; lower raw material waste; better utilization of resources; as well as an increase in efficiency of downstream processes and accompanying cost savings. Mahlo E1 B12 “Saving Costs – Conserving Resources” is the motto of Mahlo GmbH & Co. KG. It will present innovations from measuring and control technology for the worldwide textile industry as well as for the coating, plastics and paper sector. Caption: Mahlo’s ORTHOPAC XRVMC-12 The company will present the new ATMOSET SMT-12, a dynamic cylinder dryer control system, which already experiences a major demand because of its high savings potential. Up to 15% of energy can be saved through product-specific dryer control. Sums in the 5 to 6 digit range can be saved through the reduced energy consumption in the energy-intensive drying process. Sustained savings can also be realized with the enhanced modules and sensors of the OPTIPAC VMC-12 process control. The ECOMAT AML module minimizes energy consumption up to 16% alone through optimized exhaust air control. The dwell and heatsetting time can be optimized fully automatically with the PERMASET VMT module. This means optimal utilization of the stenter capacity at a lower energy requirement per meter of product produced. Amongst others, a demonstration system with circulating product web will be presented. Here you can view the new straightening concept ORTHOPAC XRVMC-12 at its best. As the first and only straightening system it offers the advantageous combination of simultaneous feedforward and feedback control of the straightening process. The multiple straightening units, selectable independently from each other, guarantee optimal monitoring with even faster and more precise straightening results. “Right first time production” thus comes within close reach and contributes to lowered costs. On the reverse side of the demo model you will find the ORTHOPAC RVMC-12, the classic model of the straightening- and process control system. For the coating and converting sector, Mahlo presents the modular and traversing process control system QUALISCAN QMS-12. It measures and controls various parameters over the entire fabric width: • Basis weight: beta radiation, X-ray and infrared sensors • Humidity: infrared and microwave sensors • Material thickness: single and double-sided laser systems The QUALISCAN QMS-12 is customized to the needs of various coating applications. The modular design offers interesting options for expansion. On display is the measuring frame WEBPRO M, which can be equipped with up to 3 sensors. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 37 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Memminger-IRO E5 G01 Supplier of processing technology for yarn feeding, control systems and lubrication technology for knitting machines, MEMMINGER-IRO is the market leader. The German company will showcase knitting machine controller NAVIGATOR and lubricator PJ LF. The NAVIGATOR is a modular system incorporates to run a large diameter knitting machine. According to customer demand MEMMINGER-IRO can supply only the controller and distribution board as the minimum configuration as well as the complete set which incorporates additionally all cables, push buttons, inverter, power unit and other parts. Caption: Memminger-IRO’s NAVIGATOR The main features include quick installation through “plug and play”; user friendly menu; integrated connection of several MEMMINGER-IRO products e.g. lubricator, fabric scanner, yarn consumption control unit, motor drive belt system and others. Besides, PJ LF is the latest development of the well-know UNIWAVE spray lubricators. Due to a brand new technology the air consumption of this new PJ LF is 30-50% lower than existing spray oilers on the market. This leads to a tremendous reduction of maintenance cost. Special nozzles reduce oil fog in the knitting room to a minimum. The focus is lead on easy handling combined with integrating many function control devices such as pressure relief valve and float switch. Monforts E1 B01 German textile finishing machinery maker Monforts will exhibit its MXL (moist cross linking) process in association with the new Thermex 8000 continuous dyeing machine. Caption: Monforts Thermex 8000 continuous dyeing machine The MXL process, developed by Ciba Speciality Chemicals together with Monforts, allows non-iron and laundry-fresh properties to be achieved on cotton materials with the shortest treatment times. It also ensures processing times to be reduced from more than 20 hours to just three minutes, while offering greater flexibility and high process safety than conventional systems. Monforts says that it will be an international debut for the Thermex 8000 continuous dyeing machine in the MXL mode of operation. And the machine is manufactured in stainless steel to withstand the process acidity. During the fair, Monforts will also demonstrate the latest software in process control technology to ensure economic and ecological solutions. Besides, references for technical textile applications will also be displayed. AD: GETRIEBEBAU NORD GMBH & CO.KG ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 38 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Novibra Boskovice s.r.o. W2 C 01 German Novibra is the leader in spindle technology and the only 100% in-house spindle maker. In 1988, the revolutionary HPS design changed the classical ring spinning and opened new prospects for spinning in speed up to 25 000 RPM. Till now this design maintains unbeatable position and becomes synonym for high speed spindle design. The high performance of spindles on modern automated ring frames requires state of the art clamping device for an effective and reliable doffing. Caption: Novibra’s spindles The new Novibra clamping crown CROCOdoff uses centrifugal effect for opening and closing at defined spindle speed. Reliable clamping and yarn cutting brings considerable advantages, to the spinners, during doffing. NSC Fibre To Yarn W3 E11 French company “NSC Fibre To Yarn” which includes N.Schlumberger, Sant Andrea Novara, Seydel, and Cognetex brands, will showcase the latest technological advancement in its product range. A new stretch breaker, evolution of its ERA comber, improvements on the GC30 family drawing machines will be particularly unveiled to its international customers. Caption: NSC Fibre To Yarn stretch breaker For NSC fibre to yarn division, the fair will be also the occasion of presenting significant evolutions as performances of production, quality standards, operating and maintenance costs, instant control and diagnosis, and cost energy savings. The company notes that all these advanced have been made possible because of its reliable concept of construction, to electronic controls implying a user-friendly man-machine dialogue and an increased productivity. Oerlikon W2 H01 & W2 F02 Under the theme “Innovation has a name”, Swiss supplier of textile machinery Oerlikon Textile will present its broad product portfolio in the manmade fiber, natural fiber and textile components business at the fair. Five leading brands will exhibit the following products under the umbrella of Oerlikon Textile on the show. Oerlikon Barmag Oerlikon Barmag will be presenting innovative solutions focusing on increasing productivity, saving energy and ergonomics. Initially, the main spotlight will be on WINGS for FDY yarns – with the first production systems being commissioned in the first quarter of 2012. The trade show’s exhibits will also include the corresponding spinning pumps for the FDY process with WINGS. Caption: Oerlikon Schlafhorst Autocoro 8 A further information focus in Shanghai will be on the carbon fibers sector, with exhibits including the WinTrax carbon fiber winder from the German textile machine builder’s Chemnitz-based subsidiary. As the reinforcing fiber fabric in composite materials, carbon fibers are considered the materials of the future. Fiber composite materials promise solutions wherever light, but nevertheless stable, structures are required. Oerlikon Schlafhorst The new Autocoro 8 is thus the first and only rotor spinning machine to spin a yarn at a rotor speed of 200,000 rpm. The new technology forms the basis for productivity increases of up to 25%, machine start-up in minutes instead of hours, an excellent multi-lot capability and much lower spinning costs. The BD 448 is the longest semi-automatic rotor spinning machine in the world. The Zinser ring spinning machines 351 and 451 promise unique process reliability with the Impact FX compact spinning technology and the CoWeMat doffer. And the quality package of the Autoconer X5 sets the benchmark for individually and flexibly adaptable package quality with maximum productivity. Oerlikon Neumag The company notes that it is the leading supplier of highly advanced BCF carpet yarn machines. The BCF best seller in 2011, the S+ with three ends per position, is now available for the up-and-coming raw material polyester BCF. The BCF S+ for polyester is a perfect substitute for polyester spun yarn on account of its cost efficiency in production. Production systems for polyester staple fibres permit maximum capacities of up to 300 tonnes per day and cut operating costs at the same time. For manufacturers of nonwovens such as geotextiles, compact inline systems with capacities of up to 80 tonnes per day offer suitable solutions as they permit small production batches and require few operators. Also on the agenda are machines or turnkey systems for the production of nonwovens from spunbond and meltblown to airlaid. Visitors to the exhibition can also navigate through the innovations in 3D on a virtual tour of the installation. Oerlikon Saurer The market leader in embroidery and twisting is putting the emphasis on energy saving with the new Volkmann CT: the eco-drive concept and spindles are complement to the e-save spindle family and help to save up to 40 per cent of energy costs, even for the finest yarn counts. Next new process: Volkmann Heat-SET integrates cabling, thermofixing and winding in one process ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 39 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW sequence, thus reducing process costs and speeding up order completion. The new Allma TC2 two-for-one twisting machine can process every conceivable material in the titre range from 235 to 60,000 dtex. It thus satisfies the demand for top quality, application variety and production flexibility in the market for technical plied yarns. Its sister machine Allma CC4 is revolutionizing the tyre cord cabling market with energy savings of up to 50%. Oerlikon Textile Components Oerlikon Textile Components will presents its advanced products in the filament industry and staple fiber spinning industry. Picanol E3 C10 Picanol will present a wide variety of weaving machines, both airjet and rapier. For the first time on the Asian continent, the new OMNIplus Summum will be shown. This weaving machine will be the new platform for further developments in the airjet segment. The main highlights of this machine are the new insertion system and the Picanol BlueBox system, the new electronic platform for Picanol machines. Besides the OMNIplus Summum, also the OMNIplus-X will be on display. This machine is developed and produced in Picanol’s Suzhou plant in China, but using the proven OMNIplus 800 technology. The OMNIplus-X responds to the requirements of the Asian mid-end segment and comes in weaving widths of 190 cm and 220 cm. Caption: OMNIplus Summum-4-P-340 Sheeting fabric As for the rapier machines, the highlight is an OptiMax weaving a technical fabric. On ITMA Barcelona Picanol presented the OptiMax in a guided positive gripper execution. Although available in all widths (up to 540 cm), this especially opens new perspectives in technical segments such as coating fabrics, primary and secondary carpet backing, geogrids and so on. Other rapier machines on display are the GT-Max with jacquard and GTX-plus, both machines produced in Suzhou. In total six Picanol machines will be on display. Five on its own booth, and one Picanol OptiMax with jacquard will be on display at the Bonas booth. Rieter W2 A10 At the ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 exhibition, Swiss textile machinery maker Rieter will be demonstrating its competence across the entire spinning process and presenting all four end spinning systems. Based on its 1.5m working width and maximum active carding area, the C 70 high-performance card achieves excellent quality values at highest production for all yarn applications. Precise flats guiding and innovation in the pre- and post-carding area allow, with AD: SSM SCHÄRER SCHWEITER METTLER AG ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 40 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW the selective waste extraction, an excellent raw material exploitation and sliver quality. With the integrated grinding system IGS, the sliver quality is maintained at a high level. Caption: Rieter’s C 70 high-performance card Rieter’s G 32 ring spinning machine can be equipped with EliTeCompactSet for compact spinning applications. The EliTeCompactSet and Rieter’s cost-efficient ring spinning technology of G 32 with the Rieter P3-1 guide arm have been combined to achieve high value compact yarn quality on a reasonable investment cost. The new R 60 fully automatic rotor spinning machine is said to set new standards in quality, productivity and flexibility with reduced energy consumption. The improved spinning stability of the new S 60 spinning unit allows a productivity increase of up to 5% over other machines, with better yarn quality. With enormous productivity potential with 540 rotors and up to four fast robots, the machine can achieve uniform yarn quality with the yarn-like piecing technology AEROpiecing. Rosink W2 A22 A German producer of service machines for cot maintenance and carding flat workshops and can coilers, Rosink will present two oppositional machines at the fair. SZ1 A Twin / HA grinding center combines the fully automatic grinding of two top rollers at the same time and a productivity of more than 500 top rollers per hour, together with the universal applicability of the semi automatic part, it covers almost every spinning roller on the market. Caption: Rosink SZ1 A Twin / HA “Robby”, on the other hand, is the latest innovation of Rosink, developed for complementing purposes of the product portfolio, which consists of full and semi automatic grinding machines. It works manual and delivers grinding results at a productivity of approximately 300 top rollers per hour while enjoying a low price. Santex E1 C03 Santex will present its products under brands, Santex, Cavitec, Isotex and SperottoRimar. Under the brand of Santex, the company will present, Synpact: A continuous two-stage compacting machine which combines the virtues of the rubber belt with the superior handle of the felt shrinking technique. This compactor, already installed and running with a leading customer of Santex, delivers at high speeds up to double than those achievable with the felt technology, while maintaining a better residual shrinkage, luster finish and excellent touch of the knits. Besides, the new coating and laminating machine, called CAVI-2-COAT, is Cavitec’s latest addition to its already extensive range of hotmelt coating and lamination solutions. A masterfully designed arrangement allows the user to coat films, membranes or textiles with one of the following selectable techniques: Full Coating, Reverse Coating, Both side coating, plus the by now traditional Gravure (Dot) Coating. As in all Cavitec products, several configurations are possible: from coating only with small batches up to non-stop lines combining coating and laminating in one process. Caption: Santex Synpact compacting machine Shima Seiki E6 E01 Japanese flat knitting machinery maker Shima Seiki says it will be focusing on revitalizing and sustaining knitting industries in China and Asia in the future. It will showcase its knitting machines, 3D design system and flatbed inkjet printing machine. Caption: Shima Seiki MACH2X WHOLEGARMENT knitting machine available in ultrafine 18L gauge To be on display are MACH2X WHOLEGARMENT knitting machine available in ultrafine 18L gauge, equipped with 4 needle beds featuring SHIMA’s original SlideNeedle, as well as SWG091N WHOLEGARMENT accessory knitting machine which can produce such items as gloves, socks, leggings, hats, and scarves. The company will also present at the fair its SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system which supports all aspects of the apparel supply chain by integrating the various stages of planning, design and production into one smooth workflow. Besides, SIP-160F2S compact flatbed inkjet printing machine will also be displayed. It has adjustable printing head height for printing not only on flat fabrics, but on complete WHOLEGARMENT knitwear as well. Towards a new era of knitting, the Japanese company says it will present the next phase in industrial modernization, and a majority of its knitting machine models are first-time introductions at ITMA Asia + CITME. SSM W3 C02 The Swiss-based SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, the inventor of the electronic yarn traverse system, will have two new product launches and a total of four machines to be exhibited at the exhibition. The focus of the show will be the exhibition of new ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 41 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Caption: SSM GIUDICI combi machine TG30 solutions for cost-effective and energy saving winding and yarn processing. For the first time in Asia, SSM will show a machine created by their new subsidiary SSM GIUDICI S.r.l. With this, SSM gained a strong market position in the field of false twist texturing of high quality fine count Nylon yarns, an application that complements SSM’s established leadership in air texturing, thus expanding SSM’s business in chemical fibre processing industries. With two new product launches and a number of innovations & applications for their well-known product range, SSM will exhibit a total of four machines. Machines for the applications of dyeing and rewinding as well as false twist texturing will be on display. Stäubli E3 E01 Stäubli will be showing a selection of its most modern products of the complete textile machinery range. This includes cam motions, dobbies, and electronic Jacquard machines with harnesses, weaving preparation systems with automatic warp drawing-in, leasing and warp tying machines. Two complete Jacquard installations on weaving machines will be demonstrated at the booth. The first one is equipped with a type LX3202 with 12288 hooks producing tapestry and upholstery fabric on a 180 cm wide rapier weaving machine. The second is the new-type SX electronic Jacquard machine with 2688 hooks weaving terry towel fabric on a 260 cm wide rapier weaving machine. Both machines can be seen from the second floor of the two storey booth building to have a detailed look at the working Jacquard units. The full range of Stäubli harness types will be shown with a type DX Jacquard machine for any standard application on a demonstration stand. CX 182 type Jacquard machine for weaving narrow fabrics such as ribbons and labels will be shown with 192 hooks and harness with 4 repeats. For the first time in China the new dobby type 3060 can be seen. This new generation of rotary dobbies opens new areas of performance and reliability. To complete the picture of the Stäubli shedding systems the refined positive cam motion type 1681, the negative cam motion type S1352 as well as the universal positive rotary dobby type 2658 are being demonstrated at the booth. Caption: New rotary dobby type 3060 Weaving preparation systems will present the mobile automatic drawing-in machine SAFIR S30. Furthermore the warp-tying machines MAGMA AD: THIES GMBH & CO.KG ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 42 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW for coarser yarn counts, and proven TOPMATIC for standard application, and multilayer leasing machine OPAL for leasing a 1:1 lease in warps with up to 8 layers including color detection will be demonstrated. Stoll E6 C06 German knitting machinery maker Stoll will premiere a new machine and present new intelligent knitting technologies in Shanghai. Exhibiting for the first time, the company will showcase a new machine that offers the knitting industry unprecedented freedom. Above all, it enables greater variability, flexibility, and productivity with the quality and speed that Stoll is known for. Designers gain new possibilities for creating imaginative looks while incorporating additional colors. Stoll’s high-tech commitment is emphasized by a newly developed brand image. This is evident in the company’s redesigned booth, which will also debut in Shanghai. Its trade show motto for 2012 is “Knitting Performance by Stoll”: a variety of knit patterns will be displayed in the booth. Caption: Stoll will premiere a new knitting machine A large-area visual presentation on the inside walls of the new booth can be seen from afar, inviting trade show attendees to drop in and talk shop. The two-level exhibition and meeting section is light and airy, to unveil an elegantly puristic yet comfortable ambience. Stork Prints E1 D01 On display at the booth of Dutch Stork Prints will be the new digital textile printer Sphene as well as consumables like rotary screens and digital ink. Caption: Stork Prnts’ Sphere digital textile printer Stork Prints’ Sphene is the future for digital textile printing with print speeds up to an amazing amount of 555 sqm/hr. The Sphene makes it easy - and cost-effective - to carry out top-class digital textile printing. Its industrial fabric feeding system allows virtually any fabric imaginable to be used, at widths of up to 1.85 meters. There will also be printing samples of Stork Prints’ new NEBULA reactive, acid and disperse ink sets for Kyocera print heads. With the special Reactive Deep Black ink, you get a profoundly intense and dark black. Stork Prints will also presents its complete range of FLARE inks that run on all printers using Epson print heads, including Robustelli Monna Lisa printers. Stork Prints inks are not just suited for the new printer Sphene, but can also run on the Reggiani Renoir, MS JP and MS JPK-series printers and the La Meccanica Qualijet K-series. Recently, Stork Prints has developed a range of inks, known as QUASAR, for the MS LaRio, for partner and leading Italian manufacturer MS. The suitability of QUASAR inks for the LaRio stems from Stork Prints’ experience in developing inks for its own single-pass digital printing machines for label printing, the DSI. For a number of years the company has been optimising ink performance for high-speed digital printing machines to help deliver superior image quality. This includes patented technology to prevent striping. Suessen W2 C 01 Germany-based Suessen is a supplier of technology components and conversions for the yarn manufacturing industry in ring, open-end and airjet spinning. It will present its EliTeCompactSet V5 and Cot Protecting System (CPS). Caption: Suessen’s ELiTe Compact Spinning system The company is renowned for its EliTeCompact Spinning System. To be showcased at the fair, its EliTeCompactSet V5 features the EliVAC-CDS (Central Duct Solution). The central suction duct is located on top of the ring spinning machine, the vacuum is generated by one motor with filter box. Its main advantages are easy and fast installation, no rotating drive shafts, pulleys, belts, and bearings, and no individual fans for groups of EliTubes. The company notes that it can save energy of about 20% with fewer spare parts and less maintenance required. On the other hand, its new CPS - Cot Protecting System in man-made fiber ring spinning reduces the maintenance in the drafting unit by extending the top roller life time – an apron protects the delivery roller cot from wear with no grinding of delivery cots, and constant and equal yarn quality over a long time. SwissTex W3 C05 SwissTex’s UT, UTC and UTW machines are known for their flexibility. Different products can be twisted on each spindle thanks to fully individual driven positions, from spindle to take-up. New machines are focusing on energy saving and keeping the same perfect ergonomics. The CP machines are dedicated to tire cord markets. Among its exhibits is its new CP 20, which has a complete new design from the frame to the textile equipment, energy saving and easy ergonomics. Caption: SwissTex CP 20 ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 43 - COTTON INCORPORATEDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 44 - ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW SwissTex is one of the major suppliers in machinery in the field of cabling and twisting for synthetic filaments and spun yarns. For the cabling and twisting process, the company offers a wide range of machines with mechanical spindles: CD, DT and CDDT, as that carpets and rugs are more and more diversified in their style, look, structure, colors, patterns and presentations. The company also provides machinery for twisting, covering, assembling, cabling, and rewinding. It offers a complete range of twisting machines, single and double covering machines, air covering machines and combined machines. Van de Wiele E3 F06 Van de Wiele has introduced its new Innovator-range of carpet weaving machines at ITMA Barcelona 2011. Now the range has been extended with the Handlook Carpet Innovator HCi X2, using 3 rapier technology, producing 50% more than double rapier machines, very nice carpets with a hand-knotted look backside. The maximum reed density has even been extended to 1000 d/m with 8 color frames, being the most dense machine-made handlook carpets available on the market, with more than 2 million points/sqm. Samples of this innovation are displayed at the Van de Wiele booth. Caption: The best commercial rug sizes are woven on the Rug & Carpet Innovator RCi02 of 5m width The Rug & Carpet Innovator range is now available in a 5 m weaving width execution, for optimized combinations of area rug dimensions. Studies have proven that the 5 m wide carpet weaving machine of the Innovator range compared to the traditional 4 m wide has a payback of less than 2.5 years. This is valid for traditional design carpets and modern rugs with loop and cut pile, up to 10 colors, sisal look carpets, outdoor carpets and shaggy carpets. Many Van de Wiele MAX91 Axminster carpet machines are already equipped with a Smart Creel, replacing the labor-intensive and unflexible traditional bobbin creel. The Velvet Tronic VTR is manufactured in a plain/dobby execution - VTR23 – and a Jacquard execution – VTR33. The applications of velvet are numerous: upholstery, automotive, bus and train, curtain, chiffon dress, and artificial fur. For the interior fabrics, there is a fashion towards the Italian velvet with pile design combined with Jacquard ground effects. Thies E1 C01 At the fair, German textile dyeing machinery maker Thies GmbH & Co KG will exhibit its iMaster H₂O rope dyeing machine offering significant reduction in the consumption of water, chemicals, dyestuffs and energy. As introduced, the dyeing machine features a new design of rope dyeing for the processing of knit and woven goods. With a transport winch installed inside the kier, iMaster H₂O processes cotton, synthetic fibers and their blends, including articles with a high elastane content, with highly reduced elongation, resulting in dyed fabrics with improved stability and surface appearance. The new machine has put additional focus on the significant reduction of water consumption together with a decrease in the consumption of chemicals, dyestuffs and energy, says the company. It is possible because the machine uses conventional techniques without air technology, thereby achieving a liquor ratio of 1:4 in the course of dyeing. Caption: Thies iMaster H₂O The German company adds that complex rinsing systems combined with “intelligent functions” for the pre- and post-treatment of the fabric further reduce the total water and energy consumption. X-Rite E7 A56 X-Rite will present its NetProfiler 3. The major goal of the NetProfiler 3 project was to provide improved profiling support for the suite of industrial handhelds: SP62, SP64, Ci52, 962, and 964. To enable this goal, changes have been made to the profiling algorithms and, most significantly, to the ceramic calibration media. Key changes with the calibration media include: - Use of “Run of the Kiln” tile material from CERAM: This is the same material used in BCRA-II tiles but without CERAM’s final certification process - New form factor: 7/8” rounds designed to fit into to the new NetProfiler measurement base - New calibration centroids: Sphere handheld based on SP6x Series / Ci52 or 45/0 based on 96x Series The company says that benefits of the new calibration media include: - Improved quality: Visual appearance, spatial uniformity, and consistency - New form factor: 7/8” rounds designed to fit into to the new NetProfiler measurement base - Greater uniformity improves performance for smaller aperture instruments - Consistent targeting The profiling algorithms, tolerances, and calibration media for handhelds have been aligned and will significantly improve both profile performance and user experience. Also, X-RiteColor Master Version 8.5.1 and X-RiteColor Master Web Edition Version 8.5.1 have been released to provide compatibility with NetProfiler 3 and Industrial handheld instruments. ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 45 - THREE CIRCLES KNITTING NEEDLES INDUSTRY CO., LTDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 46 - Market Focus Sportswear: An industry in flux Sports brands are struggling to keep their eyes on the ball in having to respond to many changing demands from both the market and their supply chains, writes Adrian Wilson A number of major trends are currently influencing the global US$120 billion sports and fitness clothing market, the most immediate being the increasing pressure for more sustainable and less wasteful manufacturing and sourcing. Recent reports by Greenpeace – notably its ‘Dirty Laundry’ investigation into hazardous chemical discharges into water supplies – have shaken the industry, obliging the major brands to look ever-closer at their supply chains. The formation of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) in March 2011, however, has greatly assisted in their rapid response to the potentially damaging media headlines. As a group of leading apparel and footwear brands, retailers, manufacturers, non-governmental organizations (NGOs), academic experts and the US Environmental Protection Agency, SAC started working last year on a collaborative approach to reducing the environmental and social impacts of apparel and footwear products sold around the world. Caption: Adidas, Nike and Puma are among companies who have this year made pledges to work together towards zero discharge as a result of recent Greenpeace reports The stated aims of SAC are: - Leading the industry towards a shared vision of sustainability built on an industry-wide index for measuring and evaluating apparel and footwear products. - Spotlighting promising technological innovations. - Identifying opportunities for improving current social and environmental practices throughout the supply chain by collaborating to establish consistent expectations for brands, retailers and manufacturers. Among its key sportswear members are Adidas, Mountain Equipment, New Balance, the Outdoor Industry Association, Patagonia and Target. “Detox” Going a stage further in response to the Greenpeace challenge to the sporting goods industry to ‘detox’, Adidas, Nike and Puma are among a group of companies who have this year made pledges to work together towards zero discharge over specified time periods. Alexis Olans, Senior Global Project Manager for Adidas in Germany outlined the significance of collaboration in responding to such challenges. “Even if Adidas was taking ten or even twenty per cent of a certain mill’s output, it was still hard to have a direct influence on their operations,” she said. “Now, however, working in collaboration with the other brands we have much more leverage.” “Tackling and achieving the goal of zero discharge is a complex technical and systems challenge – one that a single brand or even a small group of brands cannot solve alone,” added Karin Ekberg, Adidas South East Asia Head of Environmental Services. “The group of brands have thousands and thousands of suppliers and we will need to make sure that we have a concerted approach as we move forward.” During 2012 several projects are being undertaken, focused on: - The screening of chemicals. - Developing general inventories of the chemicals used. - Confirming which chemicals have been phased out and identifying those that need to be phased out or their discharge limited. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 47 - SAN DA CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINEAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 48 - Market Focus Powerhouse The US is currently the world’s single largest and most developed regional market for sports and fitness clothing, with Europe and Asia-Pacific trailing behind. In respect of the fastest growth, however, Asia-Pacific, spurred by the rapidly expanding markets of China and India, is expected to race ahead in the next few years. Caption: There is a radical change going on in China, and the time is coming to reassess, notes Mark Held But China’s dominance as the manufacturing powerhouse for all of these goods can no longer be taken for granted. Adidas and Nike, for example, are known to have already relocated a lot of their production, albeit still following the maybe now outdated model of constantly moving to lower cost production countries. In the future, however, there is likely to be much more of a trend towards localized production and distribution routes, as is taking place in other industries such as automotive and large-scale consumer goods such as baby diapers. Some of the reasons for this were outlined by Mark Held, Secretary General of the European Outdoor Group (EOG) at the recent Innov-Ex conference held in Lancaster in the UK during April. For an industry such as outdoor gear – as a smaller sector within that of general sportswear – it is time for a radical overhaul in Europe, he suggested. “The so-called Asian Dawn was an opportunity to be shut of manufacturing in Europe and for many years the smaller brands were achieving margins they had only previously dreamed of,” he said. “We got some great product out of it too. Now, however, virtually everything is in China and Asia and we are realizing it’s at a cost. China was once a buyer’s paradise for us, but now everything’s changed.” Domestic market Consumer demand for outdoor products in China itself is growing all the time, he added, and the mills find supplying to their domestic market preferable to dealing with Western brands. “It’s now very much a manufacturer’s market even for the big guys. Mills are giving 18 months lead times which makes it impossible to respond to the changing demands of the market. It’s becoming very difficult to plan ahead in terms of volume and even the bigger players are wanting minimum order quantities to reduce their exposure to risk.” At the same time, he added Chinese mills are having to pay annual increases of up to 25% a year simply to keep their workers in the textile industry. “There is a radical change going on in China,” Held said, “and the time is coming to reassess because we need more flexible options. Production closer to home would allow for higher raw material stocks and significantly reduce lead times. The goal was always the margins and now they are not being realized. The real price of outdoor gear has gone down.” Olympics in London London in the UK will without doubt be the sports capital of the world in coming months, as the host of the Olympic Games 20102. As the official sponsor, Adidas will be seeking to use the games as a springboard to overtake Nike, as the biggest sportswear company in the UK, at least. Nike is currently the UK market leader with an 18% share of its £4.3 billion sportswear market, with Adidas in second place with a 15% share. Caption: Adidas appointed Stella McCartney as the creative director of Team GB. All told, Adidas is anticipating £100 million in sales from the Olympics In addition to kitting out the athletes in 25 of the 26 Olympic sports, Adidas is dressing the 70,000 Olympic volunteers, providing the outfits for the pre-games torch relay and creating clothing for the athletes to wear in the Olympic Village. Adidas is also the official clothing licensee for the games, and is selling Olympic-themed and branded clothes through its own stores and third-party retailers, such as Tesco and Asda. It appointed Stella McCartney as the creative director of Team GB and she is providing the team with garments such as their signature tracksuits and has also designed more fashionable ranges. All told, Adidas anticipates £100 million in sales from the Olympics. Recycling in sportswear Sustainability, however, has again been an issue for Adidas in the build-up to the games. The brand had initially aimed to have 100% of the garments it provided recycled, but in the end achieved 70%. “Some of the time lines involved in the build-up to the games ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 49 - Market Focus prevented us from achieving one hundred per cent,” said Alexis Olans. “It’s basically a five-year process from development to realisation and we are already working on the ranges for the next Olympics now.” Specific issues that caused difficulties were, for example, swimwear, with resistance to chlorine a big issue. As a result, the swimwear being supplied is 82% recycled polyester with 18% elastane. Recycled polyester is also slightly weaker in performance, so in the basketball outfits created more elastane was required there too. “We have been asking our suppliers for constructions that have not been required before, with new specifications and challenges,” said Olans. “These developments, however, will now be in place going forward.” Active ageing Beyond the Olympics, the sportswear industry will be impacted by a number of general lifestyle changes, including the blurring of the distinction between sports apparel and garments used for casual, business, everyday or street wear, the increasing participation in sports by women and the rapidly aging population. In respect of the latter, it has been estimated that by 2030, over 30% of the global population will be over 60 years of age, and a high number will be active in sports. Caption: Sensors are increasingly being integrated into sportswear, including the new Stella McCartney Sports Bra Their requirements, however, will differ in a number of ways, and most significantly the current mindset of the over 60s involves little, if any, brand allegiance. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the brands have virtually ignored this age group, choosing to target younger consumers. Now, however, it is a market that’s becoming too big not to find some way of addressing. This is an issue that’s been the subject of the Design for Ageing Well research project led by the University of Wales at Newport. “The project has encouraged collaboration with industry partners, including fabric producers, garment manufacturers and technology providers to ensure the effective translation of the findings of academic research, to inform the eventual launch of commercial products for the rapidly growing active ageing market,” explained David Taylor, a key member of the research team in Newport. “Little has been done to help designers understand the needs of the ageing, with a particular focus on clothing and wearable technologies. To bring new products to an emerging market, many stakeholders in the product development chain, and in product launch, will benefit from the knowledge transfer of current research findings.” Integration of sensors The integration of sensors is a fast-growing sector in sportswear, notably for performance monitoring, and this is also likely to be of key significance to enabling the elderly to do much more. “Co-design is a new approach which brings together researchers, industry partners and active ageing participants in the development of a clothing layering system comprising base, mid and outer layer garments that incorporate smart textiles and wearable technologies,” Taylor explained. “Initial prototypes are being designed, he added, to address the user-needs identified and to demonstrate how the attributes of modern textiles and novel garment manufacture may enhance the independence, safety, wellbeing and sense of adventure in the everyday lives of older wearers.” ■ AD: PREMIUM TEXTILE COMPONENTS GROUP ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 50 - Textile Technology Feature Testing and QC Testing automatically, accurately and fast by Staff Reporters Quality and functionality are the two key drivers of the textile and apparel industry amid the fierce competition. And running tests seems to be the best possible way to guarantee products’ quality in terms of the pledged functionalities, performance level and absence of harmful substances. In this sense, textile testing laboratories as well as brands’ or manufacturers’ in-house laboratories are playing a pivotal role in providing test results quickly and accurately. According to the US-based testing equipment supplier Q-Lab, one of the biggest challenges faced by textile testing laboratories is the need for automated testing equipment that provides simple yet reliable testing in a high volume environment. At the recent 2nd China International Forum on New Knitting Technologies & Improving First-time Success Rate of Dyeing organized by Adsale Publishing Limited and the China Textile Engineering Society (CTES), Robert K. Lattie, Product Management Director of SDL Atlas Ltd, anticipated that as garments increasingly added with special functions, there will be more and better ways to measure and control the important added-value features that fabric and apparel manufacturers will be offering to the consumers. China’s growing quality demand The textile testing market is growing significantly in China, “In the past, our customers used to be multinational companies from the US and Europe, but now we have more and more Chinese customers who have high standard of quality, such as Chinese famous brands Lilang and Septwolves,” said Tracy Cheng, Marketing Manager of SDL Atlas Ltd at ShanghaiTex 2011 organized by Adsale Exhibition Services Limited. She noted that the traditional testing equipment for physical tests, lightfastness and colorfastness tests is already considered as the basic requirement, nowadays Chinese customers are paying more attention to functionality testing, such as moisture management test. Besides China, Ms Cheng pointed out that in the past two years, Asian countries such as Vietnam and Indonesia have been growing fast in terms of sales volume in testing equipment and the scale of their laboratories. Challenge in color management Color management is an important part in textile quality control. Some manufacturers, however, tend to overlook the significance of color quality and consistency of their products. Color science and technology specialist X-Rite said that consumers take clothing color into consideration before they make a purchase, If the manufacturer produces goods that has a discrepancy in color, customers will buy goods from other competitor which has consistent color. Experts estimate that China losts millions of yuan each year in time and resources as brand owners reject testing swatches and products that don’t meet the visual color standards or requirements. Some textile mills and dyehouses said that they reject only 20% of their first lab dip internally during visual inspection, but specifiers report that they reject up to 80% of the first lab dip that they receive from their suppliers. X-Rite estimates that it costs more than RMB 9,400 in time and resources for each sample a dyehouse sent to a specifier for evaluation. X-Rite suggests that companies which are concerned about the color quality of products may use spectrophotometers and colorimeters to make sure their processes adhere to tight numerical specifications. However, companies can easily overlook the need to do proper visual evaluation of colors and color differences as part of their quality control. “Much of this confusion comes from the fact that the suppliers and their customers are not evaluating the color of products in the ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 51 - Textile Technology Feature Testing and QC Image source: Oeko-Tex Association same way. Manufacturers need to ask the specifier or brand owner about the procedures and equipment they use to evaluate colors visually,” noted Ken Philips, Product Marketing Manager of X-Rite. He added, “At some point in the supply chain, people need to evaluate how the colors of products look when they are placed under the same illumination as where they are sold or used. And there isn’t any substitute for the human eye when it comes to judging whether customers will be satisfied with the colors of products.” Some technologies from testing and quality control instruments suppliers Coloursmith’s Chroma-Fast series The UK-based testing instruments supplier Coloursmith’s range of Chroma- Fast machines are designed to meet BS, ISO, AATCC and retailers standards for the determination of color fastness to washing and dry cleaning. Various Combinations comprising of SINGLE and MULTIBATH machines are available accommodating between 4-24 test vessels in each bath. Caption: Coloursmith’s Chroma-Fast series machine The MULTIBATH concept provides flexibility, with the option to run different test standards at different times in the separate baths. MULTIBATH machines can have the options of Independent Drive (ID) or common drive (CD). The Common Drive option means that one motor operates both baths, while with Independent Drive (ID) each bath is driven independently. Irrespective of which combination is selected, each bath is provided with independent temperature control, and time alarm. Available in 550ml or 1100ml capacity for ISO / AATCC testing, its test vessels fit into the machine using a bayonet socket fitting and quick release lid. The vessels are designed for wash fastness test conditions and meet the standard of being 75 +/- 5mm diameter, 125 +/- 10mm in height. The test vessels are positioned in the machine containers are 45 +/- 10mm from the center of the shaft. James Heal’s Elmatear² digital tear tester The UK-based testing equipment supplier James Heal has extensively redesigned its key instrument Elmatear², incorporating contemporary styling and a wide range of new features which offer such benefits as better value, increased accuracy, safety and flexibility. Applied for testing textiles, nonwovens, paper, board and plastics, the instrument is supplied with a full set of pendulum weights (A-D), a complete set of check weights and specimen, one spare blade and four specimen preparation tables. Caption: James Heal’s Elmatear² Digital Tear Tester An optional feature is Pendulum Weight Kit (E), which allows double capacity to 128N. As introduced, this has made it ideal for testing higher strength technical textiles such as roofing shingles, personal protection equipment (PPE) and high strength upholstery and apparel fabrics. Pendulum E allows quick and easy clamping with innovative rotary cam lock jaws and interchangeable jaw faces. Fool-proof in operation, Elmatear² has automatic level compensation, automatic pendulum weight detection, automatic zeroing and visible and audible indicators. Also it has built-in safety, having no finger traps, two handed release of pendulum and automatic arrest of pendulum. Lloyd’s LS5 materials testing machine for textile testing The UK-based manufacturer of materials testing machines Lloyd Instruments recently introduced a new, high precision universal instrument for use right through the textile supply chain and manufacturing process, from evaluating new materials to quality testing of finished products. Operating at forces up to 5 kN/1124 lbf, the new, single column LS5 enjoys the same mechanical design principles introduced on the LS1 instrument, with linear guide technology, pre-loaded ball screws and advanced software compensation to ensure high displacement precision. Equally suited to quality control and R&D environments, with scalable operation from stand-alone to PC control, the new LS5 can be used in a multitude of textile testing applications. These include testing seam slippage, tear resistance, breaking strength and ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 52 - Textile Technology Feature Testing and QC Caption: Lloyd’s LS5 materials testing machine for textile testing elongation. The LS5 offers extraordinary versatility, with its extensive range of grips, fixtures and extensometers that can accommodate individual yarns of any fiber type through to complete textile sheets ranging from nonwoven and woven fabrics, through elastomeric materials to geotextiles. The LS5 is capable of performing a wide range of tests, including tensile, compression, flexural, friction, insertion/extraction, peeling, tearing and creep/relaxation, meeting or exceeding national and international material test standards. Simple operation, from the intuitive stand-alone user interface to Lloyd Instruments NEXYGENPlus materials testing software used in PC-controlled versions, makes the LS5 a popular addition to any laboratory or production line. NEXYGENPlus materials testing software allows the operator to control and monitor all aspects of a PC-controlled LS5 from a single front end, ensuring fast, reliable and powerful testing and data analysis. Mahlo’s QUALISCAN QMS-10A quality control system Germany-based Mahlo’s QUALISCAN QMS-10A Quality Control System is flexible to fit the monitoring and control needs of paper, film, nonwoven and textile industries. Different sensors are available for measuring critical production parameters such as weight, moisture or thickness. For different applications, specific sensors are available to effectively and accurately cover the customer’s online monitoring needs. Various control solutions make it possible for the QMS010A to be integrated into either new or existing production lines where quality improvement and assurance are needed. The open, Ethernet-based platform allows for easy access to all measurement data through a variety of network interfaces. Its Central Control Station in an upright standing steel cabinet (IP 53 standards) contains a rigid industrial PC with integrated UPS and 15” LCD, TFT color display with touch screen. Caption: Mahlo’s QUALISCAN QMS-10A The system also features intelligent sensors and gauging systems with integrated microprocessors for signal treatment and/or measurement value processing. Mesdan’s evenness tester MT Italian Mesdan’s Evenness Tester MT is designed for the evenness and hairiness control of slivers, rovings and spun yarns. The system analyzes periodic mass variations generated in the manufacturing process without the need of another external sensor. Caption: Mesdan’s Evenness Tester MT The tester features a capacitive sensor with wide testing range (from 80g/m of sliver up to Ne 200 yarn) and a modular system, enabling to integrate the H-Sensor (for hairiness measurement) and fully automatic testing (with the addition of the Automatic Cop Changer). It is therefore very easy to control the mass variation in the whole spinning process as well as to identify the exact origin of the faults in the spinning process by analyzing the spectrogram. It allows fully automatic system calibration, obtaining results that are compatible and comparable with the most popular international standards. Q-Lab’s Q-SUN B02-S xenon tester The US-based lightfastness and weathering test equipment supplier Q-Lab has recently released a new water spray feature for the rotating rack Q-SUN B02-S xenon tester. The Q-SUN B02 is an affordable lightfastness tester designed specifically to meet the requirements of ISO and AATCC. The water spray function gives the Q-SUN B02-S the ability to perform weathering testing in addition to lightfastness testing. This latest model of Q-SUN provides a capacity that is 48% to 92% larger than comparable xenon testers. Setting a new level of efficiency for textile lightfastness testing, the B02 incorporates large specimen capacity and precise control of critical test parameters including: spectrum, irradiance, relative humidity, chamber temperature and black standard temperature. The Q-Lab B02 xenon tester, designed for flexibility, ease of use and reliability, provides a cost-effective solution to these requirements. Textile testing laboratories of all sizes will now find fully automatic xenon lightfastness and weathering testing possible with the affordable Q-SUN B02-S. Caption: Q-Lab’s Q-SUN B02-S xenon tester ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 53 - SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 54 - Textile Technology Feature Testing and QC SDL Atlas Moisture Management Tester (MMT) Testing equipment supplier SDL Atlas and the Hong Kong Polytechnic University have developed Moisture Management Tester (MMT). It can generate data in a two-minute test for wetting time, absorption rate, maximum wetting radius, spreading speed, and accumulative one-way transport capability. MMT was developed to measure dynamic liquid transport properties of knit and woven fabrics in three dimensions: Caption: SDL Atlas Moisture Management Tester (MMT) 1. Absorption Rate - Moisture absorbing time of the fabric’s inner and outer surfaces; 2. One-way Transportation Capability - One-way transfer from fabric’s inner surface to outer surface; 3. Spreading/Drying Rate - Speed of liquid moisture spreading on fabric’s inner and outer surfaces. MMT consists of upper and lower concentric moisture sensors. The specimen is held flat under fixed pressure between the sensors while standard test solution is introduced on to the top surface of the fabric.electrical resistance changes between the upper and lower sensors are then recorded dynamically on computer. MMT permits the measurement of such indexes as Wetting Time Top/Bottom (WTT/WTB), Absorption Rate Top/Bottom (TAR/BAR), Maximum Wetted Radius Top/Bottom (MWRT/MWRB), Spreading Speed Top/Bottom (TSS/BSS), Accumulative One-Way Transport Capacity (R), and Overall Moisture Management Capacity (OMMC). Testechno’s FIBROTEST fiber length and strength tester FIBROTEST of German Textechno Herbert Stein GmbH & Co KG incorporates both fiber length measurement and fiber strength test within the same instrument. The two measurements – at first fiber length and thereafter fiber strength – are executed in succession on the same sample. After completing these measurements the sample size between the clamps is automatically determined, which enables to calculate the exact and absolute value of tenacity. Caption: Testechno’s FIBROTEST fiber length and strength tester Operation of the FIBROTEST does not require calibration cotton and is, therefore, independent of any influences from this side. Nevertheless the system can be calibrated with calibration cotton to duplicate HVI results. Use of the tester is simple and straightforward: The operator prepares the sample with the same type of sample holder as used in other equipment known on the market. Unavoidable fiber mass variation along the sample holder is – different from conventional testers – compensated by the FIBROTEST optical system with high lateral resolution. After inserting the sample holder into the tester all test functions are executed fully automatically. Control of the test process as well as measured data evaluation featuring printout of individual values and their statistical analysis is provided by the Textechno TESTCONTROL system, consisting of PC and Textechno software. The tester recently received an official and full recognition from the International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods (ICCTM), a Committee of the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF). Testex’s FX 3150 water vapor transmission rate tester Switzerland-based Testex’s FX 3150 Water Vapor Transmission Rate Tester GRAVITEST is used for automatic, accurate, and cost-effective determination of the water vapor transmission rate of a wide variety of materials, such as plastic films, roofing and building materials, woven and nonwoven textiles, coated fabrics, barrier and medical materials, with the gravimetric method. Caption: Textest’s FX 3150 Water Vapor Transmission Rate Tester Testing of small samples and special materials such as concrete is also possible using special accessories.It features high accuracy due to repeated tests until the system is in equilibrium and the test results are stable. Fast and convenient sample clamping, it works in accordance with all relevant test standards. Uster’s Quantum 3 Uster has recently introduced its Uster Quantum 3, which measures, analyzes and proposes how the yarn on the winding machines can best be tailored to the spinner’s quality and productivity needs. It is said to be the only clearer able to visualize the yarn quality. The company notes that Uster Quantum 3 is its most advanced clearer yet, packed with future-oriented technology. It features the Smart Clearing Technology, an unbeatable combination of high-technology sensors and built-in knowledge. Powerful new capacitive, optical and foreign matter sensors are at the core of the Uster Quantum 3. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 55 - Textile Technology Feature Testing and QC Caption: Uster Quantum 3 In combination with powerful processing electronics, for the first time ever, the system shows the full yarn body. Then, drawing on built-in its know-how, it proposes suitable clearing limits to achieve the required quality level. X-Rite SpectraLight QC X-Rite’s SpectraLight QC light booth is precisely calibrated to add the correct amount of ultraviolet light to simulate natural daylight as directed under CIE Publication 51 (CIE / ISO SO12E) metamerism index standards. Metamerism is an optical phenomenon where a pair of samples might match in color under one light source, but appear different under another light source. Lab personnel can also adjust the amount of ultraviolet light in the SpectraLight QC light booth, depending on how the sample should be tested. Companies that are visually evaluating color should also be careful about intensity of light they shed on test samples. Several trade organizations representing the textile and other industries have issued standards that spell out best practices in the amount light used to illuminate light, medium and dark colored samples when evaluating their colors. For instance, one standard states that the illumination may be as low as 50 foot-candles or 540 lux for viewing very light materials and as high as 200 foot-candles or 2150 lux for viewing very dark materials. Caption: A lab personnel is conducting a test with X-Rite’s SpectraLight QC light booth Both lux and foot-candle are measurements of the intensity of light that is brought to bear on a defined area. One lux is defined as one lumen uniformly distributed over an area of one square meter. A typical office may have illuminations in the 320 to 500 lux range, while direct sunlight on a clear day may be measured at more than 100,000 lux. A foot-candle is defined as one lumen uniformly distributed over an area of one square foot, with one foot-candle equaling the power of approximately 10.8 lux. Companies can use a light meter to determine the lux or foot-candles that are falling on a sample and adjust test lighting accordingly. Quality control personnel who use the SpectraLight QC light booth can adjust lux settings depending on the standards they wish to implement. ■ AD: TESTEX SWISS TEXTILE-TESTING LTD Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 56 - Material Technology Nano coatings add new dimensions to functional fabrics by Sanjay Gupta The fantasy world of Harry Potter’s invisibility cloak or Superman‘s fireproof, bullet-proof cape no longer seem to be mere fiction, rather they are expected to become a reality in not-too-distant future. Who would have thought a decade ago that fabrics could be administering medications, monitoring blood pressure and temperature, congealing bleeding wounds, administering aromatherapy and bodycare, or becoming personal area network? All these textile products are today available off-the-shelf thanks to the advances made in the field of functional fabrics. It’s a rapidly emerging market segment that is headed mainstream in both fashion and non-fashion applications. According to a recent estimate, the global market for these fabrics and relevant technologies is expected to reach US$1.8 billion by 2015. There has been increasing momentum in recent years in the use of nanotechnology for making functional fabric products with new and enhanced properties, such as stain and water repellence, flame retardance, antimicrobial properties, UV protection, abrasion resistance, odor absorption and insect repellence. Most remarkable feature of nano-coatings is that unlike traditional coatings they are not film-like, but a thousand times finer, which when applied to a textile substrate ensure that crucial inherent qualities of base fabric such as the look, drape, handle and breathability are unaffected. As these coatings can be applied to fabric lengths, as also to fabricated 3D products incorporating several different materials, problems associated with processing pure films/coatings are overcome. For example you can effectively treat a shoe, where not only the uppers but also the laces, stitching, toe box and heel collar will get coated. While earlier applications were based on metalized fabrics, Researchers are now experimenting with polymeric coatings using newer techniques such as atomic layer deposition, and surface activation using plasma. Commercial applications of nano coatings Among commercial applications, P2i, a UK based company is offering a patented ion-mask technology (based on a doctoral work at Durham University) that employs a pulsed ionized gas (plasma) to grow a highly hydrophobic, nano-polymer (40-80 nm) layer over the entire surface of an object, based on perfluorinated carbon compounds. The nano-coating has the effect of lowering surface energy, down to one third that of PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) thus imparting unmatched water and stain repellency to the fabric. Caption: Ion-mask on sheepskin boot protects them from wetting Thanks to the gas-phase operation of the polymerization process, the nano-coating can be effectively applied to complex, 3D shapes. The technology has been successfully applied on finished lifestyle products such as footwear, performance and protective textiles, accessories (gloves and headwear), workwear and eyewear. The ion-mask branded products are on sale from several international footwear companies including Timberland, Nike, Adidas Golf, Hi-Tec, Magnum Boots, Van Dal, Teva, and K-Swiss. An Australian company, Alexium has licensed what is called the Reactive Surface Treatment (RST) technology from the Air Force Research Laboratory of US Department of Defense. RST fixes polymer based nano-coatings onto textile substrates by using microwave energy to direct the precursor’s polymerization onto the substrate’s surface. Based on the precursor’s chemistry, the textile material properties, and the solution used to mix these, the resulting nano-coating may either bond with the textile or simply coat the substrate surface. RST can be used to produce multi-functional textile coatings that can make the fabric antimicrobial, flame-retardant, and oil and water shedding in a single stage process. These fabrics are expected to result in greater soldier protection from chemical and biological threats. The latest in the area of nano-coating is use of the inkjet ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 57 - Material Technology printing technology. Xennia Technology of UK has launched an inkjet printing system together with Reggiani of Italy that uses a nano-enhanced printing and coating solution allowing deposition of coatings with dirt repellent, water repellent and fire retardant properties. Nano coatings of ICPs on fibers and fabrics Researchers have found widespread applications out of applying nano coatings of inherently electrically conductive polymers (ICPs) like polypyrrole (PPY) and polyaniline (PAni) onto various fibers and fabric types. By choosing the base fabric construction for certain properties such as strength, porosity, stretch and thickness etc, and customizing conductive polymer coating for controlled surface resistivity, fabrics can be prepared with a broad range of properties such as surface conductivity/resistivity, bulk conductivity/resistivity, shielding, impedance and reflectivity etc. Such coated fabrics find commercial applications in some very intriguing products such as dynamic pressure sensors, resistive heaters, radar-absorbing composites, electronic sensing, collapsible low-radar, cross-section antennas and many military applications. Research groups at Cornell University for example are attempting to coat cotton fabrics with nanoparticles of functional polymers that can reduce the near infrared signal of the fabric thus making it invisible to night-vision goggles in the dark. Commercially, Eeonyx Technologies of the US and Panipol of Finland have developed range of textiles mano-coated respectively with PPY and PAni conductive polymers. The starting substrate can be any fabric depending on the end-use (wovens, non-wovens, felts and knits of polyester, nylon, glass, quartz, spandex, polyolefins, and aramids) and is customized for desired electrical resistance, thickness, porosity, strength and stretchability etc. Depending on the base fabric, EeonTex fabrics for example, can possess surface resistance between 10 Ohm/sq and 10 billion Ohm/sq. Caption: Set-up for continuous RST application by Alexium These fabrics have found use in a wide range of commercial and military applications. One such fabric absorbs 40–50 % of microwave radiation it receives while allowing another 15 % to be transmitted. Just by applying this fabric to the exterior of an object will cut its radar cross-section by two-thirds. These Radar Absorbing Fabrics can also be used as composite-reinforcing material in applications such as turbine blades of low radar signature windmills. Such blades would then be nearly impossible to distinguish from airplanes on many radar systems. Electromagnetic shielding property of a PPY coated woven polyester twill fabric allows it to be used as artificial horizon, radar barrier for military aerospace industry. Thicker fabrics and foams are used in EMI suppression, crosstalk reduction, vibration dampening and static dissipation. Such fabrics can also provide static-free surfaces and can be used as clean room garments. Static decay on nano-coated fabric is reportedly 100 times faster than comparable carbon-coated products and there are no hot or cold spots. By using fabrics of varying thickness and coating it through, Eeonyx also produces resistive heater fabrics that have found diverse usage from hospital grade warming blankets, high-end all-weather boots, to color-changing camouflage vests for Special Forces applications. The whole surface of the fabric is conductive, allowing safe, efficient, uniform heating. Because the fabric is the conductor, there is nothing to break in these warming blankets, making them suitable for extreme conditions. Pressure sensing Piezoresistive fabrics are also resistive across distance (thickness) but the resistance changes under pressure (mechanical stress) through the material. When a physical object touches the fabric, the current pattern gets altered, sending precise data to the connected hardware about its velocity, size, dynamic movement, and so on. These materials are ideal for making pressure/bend or stretch sensors and have found wide applications in teaching, recreation, sports and medical industry. For example, a paintball course owner has built vests using the technology. Now players shoot reusable rubber balls at their opponents wearing vests made with Piezoresistive fabric. Real-time data get recorded as to who gets shot when and how often. No need for buying paintballs every day and no mess to cleanup. Specially-designed gloves are being used by a piano player to watch his fingertip movements on the computer screen—explaining the fine points of adagio versus allegretto. The piezoresistive fabric bedsheets in a healthcare facilities detecting “hot spots” and prevent bed sores development. A smart carpet installed in the homes of the elderly living alone, monitor the behavior pattern (with no invasion of privacy) of the elderly and warn the operator when a significant anomaly in behavior patterns is detected, for supervisory emergency care. Nanocoated functional fabric products possess interesting, useful properties and are being employed in an ever-increasing array of specialty applications. Scaling may be one of the major challenges for now as research groups try to move these technologies from lab to industry. It’s however a rapidly growing field and as the fundamental understanding would evolve, the accessibility of small and mid-sized companies to these nanotechnologies is also going to grow exponentially. ■ Dr Sanjay Gupta is Dean, School of Design at the GD Goenka University, Sohna, India ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 58 - Environmental Watch 13 steps to obtain an eco-label by Isha Tyagi and Dr Anita Rani In the eco-conscious textile and garment industry, an eco-label enables consumers to identify those products that are environmentally safe; that has been manufactured using eco-friendly materials and does not contain chemicals that are harmful to the user. An eco-label identifies a product that meets specified environmental performance criteria or standards, and is awarded by a third-party organization to products or services that are determined to meet the criteria or standards. Selecting an appropriate eco-label An appropriate eco-label for a company doesn’t mean it is right for another one. Companies can select the most suitable one for themselves based on buyer requirements, major export products, and ease of implementation. Buyer requirements These will vary from country to country and be influenced by consumer preferences. One must identify what eco-labels are preferred by the buyer and that may be acceptable in more than one of the manufacturers export markets. Major export products Eco-label certificates generally apply to single product lines only. In introducing eco-labeling, manufacturers may in the first instance wish to focus on their main export product as any loss in market share, as a result of not having an eco-label, may lead to ad verse financial impacts. Ease of implementation Eco-labels where the criteria can be more readily achieved and sustained should be selected. Eco-labels based on final product quality only may be easier to gain than those based on the full life cycle analysis which takes into consideration raw material use, environmental impacts of every stage of the manufacturing process (including wastewater characteristics, air pollution and solid waste disposal), worker health and the use of child labor, packaging, return of goods and so on. How to obtain an eco-label The basic 13 steps to obtain an eco-label are presented as follows: Step 1: Management commitment From the outset it is important that the senior factory management recognize the value of an eco-label and is committed to implementing the eco-labeling requirements. Understanding and commitment of top management is essential in: • Allocating appropriate human resources; • Encouraging the factory staff to implement the necessary changes in a timely fashion; • Providing the necessary financial resources for raw material substitution, testing and certification; • Seeking process optimization changes that benefit the factory; • Developing a quality control culture that is an integral requirement of achieving and maintaining any eco-label. 1 Management Commitment 2 Eco-label Selection 3 Factory Team 4 Eco-label Procedures 5 Procedures Diagram(s) 6 Conduct Audits 7 Develop Action Plan 8 Chemicals and Dyes Substitution 9 Process Optimisation 10 Verification 11 Quality Assurance System 12 Submit Application Answer any Queries 13 Award of Eco-label Certification 14 Annual Renewal Caption: A diagram showing the steps to obtain an eco-label Step 2: Selection of eco-label and product Line The following factors need to be considered in identifying which eco-label to obtain and what product line to start on: 1. Identifying buyer preferences on the type of eco-label. 2. Selecting the eco-label that is able to maximize market penetration in potentially a number of different countries. 3. Balancing market expectations with ease of implementation. 4. Identifying main export product lines and initiating eco-labeling on that product line where it will yield the greatest return. This may have to be balanced against the complexity of changes and at times it may be more appropriate to start with the least complicated product line to enable the factory team to gain the necessary experience and confidence. 5. Articles manufactured from the same raw material and being processed similarly can be certified at the same time. Multiple product lines will incur higher costs as each product line will have to be certified separately. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 59 - DOW CORNING CORPORATION - XIAMETER ®Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 60 - Environmental Watch Step 3: Establishing a factory eco-labeling implementation team Team members To implement the eco-labeling requirements, a factory team should be formed with senior members ideally being drawn from the following departments: The sales/marketing department, who can provide advice on customer eco-label requirements and advice customers on proposed changes, implement and optimize required changes to the process and raw material usage. Including relevant production heads will ensure changes are made in a timely manner without undue interference with production schedules. The quality control department to ensure quality control procedures are addressed and maintained. The purchase department to ensure raw materials (dyes, process chemicals etc.) that are procured comply with the eco-label requirements. The finance department to provide information on costs of current operations and to fully evaluate the costs and benefits of any proposed changes. Team responsibilities The general responsibilities of the Factory Team would include: conducting the chemical audit; identifying and implementing recommended options; monitoring progress; verifying the results of any changes made; and ensuring Quality Assurance of the product. There should be a team co-coordinator, possibly the Production or Quality Control Heads, whose responsibility will be to co-ordinate the different responsibilities and tasks. Step 4: Obtaining eco-label certifying procedures and application form For the selected eco-label, all necessary paperwork and background information should be requested from the certifying organization including: • A copy of the most recent application form. • A copy of the eco-label standards. • A copy of the most recent declaration of conformity. • A list of the certifying institutes that can carry out the required chemical analyses. • A copy of the eco-label renewal form (although it will not be required at this stage). Step 5: Preparing process flow diagram(s) An important task for the factory team is to prepare a process flow diagram for the selected product line(s). Process mapping will break down the operations into functional unit operations, each of which can be shown in terms of material inputs, outputs and losses. Developing the process flow diagram helps the factory team form a consensus about how the production process is organized and provides a focal point for identifying and prioritizing areas of concern and opportunities for process optimization. The final process flow diagram should clearly indicate: • Each relevant step showing the movement of the raw material through the manufacturing process; • All inputs to each process step, including chemicals, dyes, water and energy; • All outputs including solid and liquid waste generation; • All accessories used in the final product (such as buttons, zippers, elastic and cord). Step 6: Conducting audit of process chemicals and dyestuffs Textile manufacturing uses a diverse range of chemicals some of which are potentially hazardous (e.g. formaldehyde, pentachlorophenol, volatile compounds such as solvents, flame retardants and some dyestuffs). Eco-labels set standards that ban the use of certain chemicals and limit the concentrations of others. Using the process flow diagram, the audit is intended to identify chemicals and quantify the extent of their use in each of the process units. Emphasis is placed on identifying those substances that may not be in compliance with the standard. This is the most important step of the eco-labeling process since all further actions are based on the audit findings. Step 7: Action plan to phase out objectionable substances An Action Plan should be developed to address the results of the chemical audit. This will be essential when there are a number of substances to be phased out, and/or when there is a range of options for doing so. Actions may fall into two groups: Substitution requiring only minor modifications This step involves the substitution of the chemicals and dyes on the banned list, with others that are eco-friendly. This step may not require changes in the processing or the recipe. Substitution requiring major modification This step involves introducing modifications to any of the production lines or the recipes used as a result of the previous substitution step. Substitutions should be introduced in phases, which depending on the expertise available, may involve: Initial laboratory bench testing This provides a low cost mechanism for checking the feasibility of the suggested substitutions and/or process modifications. Caption: Many tests are involved during the procedure of obtaining an eco-label (Image source: Hohenstein Institute) Pilot scale tests Pilot scale tests of the preferred laboratory bench options under conditions resembling production scale. Production scale tests They fine-tune the pilot scale tests to full-scale production while maintaining optimum conditions. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 61 - UCMTF - FRENCH ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 62 - Environmental Watch Step 8: Chemicals and dyes substitution Objectionable chemicals and dyes then need to be substituted with safer alternatives. Step 9: Process optimization In some cases, changes implemented may result in the use of higher cost chemicals and dyes. However the overall cost may be reduced as often, lesser amounts of better quality products are needed to maintain product quality. It is also possible that costs may be reduced by optimizing existing production techniques, both in the modified process and in downstream processes. Optimization is achieved by inspecting all recipes and procedures and identifying where excess raw materials are being used and where process steps can be reduced. Step 10: Verification and operating procedural changes Ongoing testing or verification, is required after any substitutions or process changes are made to ensure that the final fabric is in compliance with the standard. Of particularly importance has been the regular testing of: • pH. • Color fastness properties. • Free formaldehyde content. Step 11: Establishing a quality assurance system and preparation of quality manual The factory must ensure to the certifying institute that all products manufactured have the same properties as any test sample sent to the institute. The certifying institute can carry out random tests and persistent deviations will result in cancellation of the eco-label certificate. The factory should therefore operate and maintain an effective quality assurance system that must include the following: • Regular testing of all incoming raw materials to assess their suitability and minimize variations within the prescribed limits; • Round the clock process control checks on all processes with a scheduled frequency to minimize deviations from predetermined standard conditions; • Regular testing of the final article to provide assurance of quality. All items, all process control checkpoints and all analytical requirements for the final product, along with test methods to be followed, must be identified for routine monitoring. Frequency of these tests and the permissible working range should be decided jointly by the Production and Quality Department Heads. The Quality Control Department is expected to ensure strict adherence to periodical counterchecks and maintain proper records of all tests conducted. This will form an important basis and a demonstrative tool for the Declaration of Conformity required by the certifying institute. All of these activities must be reflected in the Quality Manual. For simplicity, the Quality Manual may be divided into various sections dealing with: • Dyes and pigments in use • Chemicals in use. • Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for all items. • Processing sequence used. • Process control check points. • Quality parameters of the final product. • Test methods for each of the items. • Frequency at which each test needs to be conducted. • Eco-label requirements. • Mode of verification, in case of correction, if any. Step 12: Submitting application form, declaration of conformity and samples After all chemicals, dye and process changes have been implemented the Application Form should be completed (answer every question) and signed. Additional information as requested in the enclosure of the application form must be given to minimize the necessary tests and costs of the procedure. A completed and signed Declaration of Conformity should also be sent, as without it, the eco-label certification will not be issued. Representative samples of the production line and material safety data sheets for chemicals and dyes used in each stage of processing should be sent with the application. Sample requirements may change and hence should be checked with the concerned institute before sending in the application. The minimum sample size currently required by the certifying institute for testing are as follows: • In the case of a made-up garment: one complete article. • In the case of fabric, a full width sample of 0.5m length. • A specimen of all the accessories used, such as buttons, zips, labels etc. • For dyestuffs and pigments, where material safety data sheets are not available, it is advisable to send a sample of the darkest shade used (by dyeing or printing). Samples of • 5x30cm dimension are suitable. Step 13: Award of eco-label certification If the testing institute is satisfied that all necessary information has been provided and that the fabric samples submitted are of an acceptable quality, then the results and eco-label certificate will be forwarded to the applicant, usually after about two months. Delays will occur if: • The Application Form has not been satisfactorily completed and clarifications are sought; • Any dye, pigment or process chemical listed in the Application Form is not represented in a fabric sample; • Samples of all accessories (buttons, zips, cord, elastic etc.) are not submitted. • Any requests for clarification or additional samples must be responded to promptly by the factory. Applications will be rejected if the samples submitted do not meet the eco-label standard. ■ Isha Tyagi and Dr Anita Rani are PhD Scholar and Assistant Professor respectively at Department of Clothing and Textile of the G.B.Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, India ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 63 - KORNIT DIGITAL LTDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 64 - Environmental Watch Sustainability gaining momentum with retailers’ awareness by Kelvin Yau Sustainability has been a buzzword in the textile and garment industry, especially in the past decade, and the industry has become aware of the possible adverse impact the industry may bring to the environment as well as the well-being of people. To assure their customers that their products are free of harmful substances, retailers and brands alike opt for “eco-labels” to give customers more confidence. Among those eco-labels available, Oeko-Tex 100 is one of the best-received standards by the Europe and the US markets. In a recent interview with ATA Journal, Dr Jean-Pierre Haug, Secretary General of Oeko-Tex Association, shared with us Oeko-Tex standard’s latest developments as well as his insights into the up-and-coming trends in sustainability issues. Also as the Chief Operating Officer of Testex AG, Swiss Textile Testing Institute, Dr Haug pointed out that the word “sustainability” dated back to 1713 in Germany. ATA: ATA Journal Dr Haug: Dr Jean-Pierre Haug, Secretary General of Oeko-Tex Association, and Chief Operating Officer of Testex AG, Swiss Textile Testing Institute ATA: How is the trend of sustainability developing in the textile and garment industry? Dr Haug: The issue of sustainability is getting more and more important with higher demand from the industry, especially after the Greenpeace campaign. But the acceptance of standard is still very limited. We are in the world where we are consuming more resources and energy than what the world can provide at the moment. To survive or sustain, we need to use them better and more efficiently. Specifically for the textile and garment industry, in every process, we have to ensure that we are using energy and materials in the most efficient way, while recycling and reusing the materials properly. ATA: The Oeko-Tex 100 has come to its 20th anniversary. Could you share with us Oeko-Tex system’s latest development, and how has it assisted the textile industry to grow? Dr Haug: I wouldn’t say Oeko-Tex is responsible for the growth of the textile industry. But what it has definitely helped is to clean the textile industry from certain chemicals which are not nice to be used. Actually it has been done in a very effective manner. When I started working at the Oeko-Tex Association nearly 20 years ago, we had found in a laboratory several times a year Pentachlorophenol (PCP) which is a very bad chemical to prevent the formation of mold on textiles. Now the problem has vanished – we find it very seldom these days. Caption: Dr Jean-Pierre Haug, Secretary General of Oeko-Tex Association, and Chief Operating Officer of Testex AG, Swiss Textile Testing Institute So instead of helping the industry grow, we have helped the industry to operate in a very efficient way in which they can get higher security about chemical safety of their products. What’s also very important is that Oeko-Tex has long been recognized by European companies, shops and retailers. Latest statistics reveal that in Germany, seven out of 10 people recognize Oeko-Tex, while in Switzerland, five out of 10 recognize it, which is very impressive. Nowadays, US consumers are also looking for Oeko-Tex in their products. Oeko-Tex label is also a good marketing tool to sell products. If a consumer likes both articles with equally competitive price, but don’t know what to choose, they may select the one which is Oeko-Tex certified. Also, those manufacturers with textile products ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 65 - Environmental Watch certified with Oeko-Tex will find it easier to sell their products in the European market. ATA: As you mentioned, Oeko-Tex has been recognized by the US and EU markets. What will be Oeko-Tex’s next step in its further development? Dr Haug: First of all, let me explain that Oeko-Tex 100 is a certification for textile products, while Oeko-Tex 1000 is for textile mills. In fact, Oeko-Tex 100 has been well introduced into the industry. Oeko-Tex 1000, on the other hand, still has lots of potentials. Oeko-Tex 100 has already issued 11,000 certificates, but currently Oeko-Tex 1000 has only issued 65 ones. In fact, Oeko-Tex 1000 ensures a healthy and safety production environment. So when we are talking about sustainability, then we should definitely have more Oeko-Tex 1000 certificates in the industry. Given the huge potential, there’s a lot we need to work on. ATA: What are the key challenges in promoting Oeko-Tex 1000? Dr Haug: The problem is that the retailers have only started recently to really look into sustainability. At the moment, more companies have chosen Oeko-Tex 100, but honestly, Oeko-Tex1000 is the most significant way to go for it. Pressure is another problem, as every certification costs money. I am not saying those companies not certified with Oeko-Tex 1000 are bad companies, as I am sure there are companies doing a good job but still are not certified. On the other hand, among the non-certified companies, there are those which care about nobody but profits, and they don’t take responsibility for the future. Besides, for Oeko-Tex 100 certification, applicants only have to submit the application form and samples, and we can carry out the certification without meeting them. The whole process is very straightforward and easy. But Oeko-Tex 1000 requires a mandatory audit for the first period of application, and companies have to prepare some information necessary for the application. However, I’m convinced that Oeko-Tex 100 and Oeko-Tex 1000 are very efficient systems of looking at the sustainability in the textile industry because of its consistence, transparency, and its focus solely on the textile industry. ■ AD: TAINING MACHINE INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 66 - Chemical & Auxiliaries Novel auxiliaries cut costs and increase productivity by Ian Holme Textile auxiliaries are used widely in textile wet processing and individually are based upon a chemical or a formulated chemical product that enables a wet processing operation to be carried out more effectively or may be essential if a particular effect is required. In the past, a dyeing recipe could contain, for example, a dispersing agent, a levelling agent, a sequestrant, and also a pH-buffering agent. However, the modern trend is for formulated liquid auxiliary products that are multifunctional and hence combine in the “one product, several functions” as well as being easy to dispense directly, rapidly, and accurately into the dyeing machine, often from an automated dispensing system connected to a bulk storage unit. Auxiliaries are particularly useful for post-dyeing operations to facilitate drastic shortening of otherwise lengthy washing off processes e.g. for removal of hydrolysed and unfixed reactive dyes from cellulosic fibres, yarns and fabrics. Clariant’s Leonil D-AIR liq Package dyeing and beam dyeing of fabric can be adversely affected by the presence of entrapped air within the yarn or fabric layers. This can lead to undyed spots within the packages or fabric beam. Clariant (Switzerland) have recently introduced a highly effective de-aerating agent, Leonil D-AIR liq, which exhibits a strong wetting and foam-suppressing power. Leonil D-AIR liq is free of silicone oil and has been developed for both continuous and discontinuous applications for all fibres and blends. This novel de-aerating agent can be used to facilitate the effective penetration of materials that are difficult to penetrate and is also suitable for application to grey fabrics. Prochimaica Novarese’s EASYWHITE Prochimica Novarese SpA (Italy) have introduced their EASYWHITE eco-friendly bleaching system. This utilises a new wetting / detergent / sequestering auxiliary product termed EASYWHITE AC / JET together with a hydrogen peroxide activator EASYWHITE ACTIV-N. This new activator has been shown to form a new complex molecule with peroxide which then allows cotton bleaching to be conducted at 80°C, around 15-20°C lower than traditional bleaching systems. In addition, this EASYWHITE bleaching system enables viscose / Lycra knitted fabric to be bleached at 60-70°C, compared with the more normal 80-90°C. The use of these two new auxiliaries from Prochimica Novarese SpA is claimed to yield savings in processing time of 20%, water cost savings of 5-10% and energy cost savings of 10-20%. The lower processing temperature enables bleaching to be carried out leaving the fabric with a softer handle. As a result, less softener needs to be applied and the fabric exhibits reduced pilling and less fibre damage, both significant advantages. Clariant’s Imerol BLUE liq A new all-in-one bleaching auxiliary from Clariant (Switzerland) is Imerol BLUE liq based on the exclusive Singulet Bleaching technology. Imerol BLUE liq in the Blue Magic Process is claimed to open up new perspectives for exhaust bleaching applications, decreasing the water consumption by up to 75% in pretreatment, because no rinsing is needed after bleaching. An important benefit of using Imerol BLUE liq is that the treated material exhibits very high absorbency, which is an essential prerequisite for obtaining excellent uniformity and reproducibility in repeat batches. This novel auxiliary enables both the effluent loading and volume to decrease. In practice, the chemical oxygen demand (COD), biological oxygen demand (BOD) and total dissolved solids (TDS) are decreased by using Imerol BLUE liq which is itself both alkylphenol ethylene oxide-free (APEO-free) and free from phosphorus. Caption: Comparison between classical bleaching process and that with Clariant’s Imerol BLUE liq (Image source: Clariant) The high temperature exhaust dyeing of polyester yarns and fabrics can give rise to serious problems caused by the migration of oligomers, such as cyclic trimers, out of the fibers. During cooling of the dyebath prior to draining the oligomers can deposit on the surfaces of the fibres, or on the interior surfaces of the dyeing machinery. This creates the problems of white powder deposits leading to dulling of yarns or fabrics and machines. In addition, oligomer deposits on machine guides during subsequent yarn winding / twisting operations can lead to increased friction causing high tension build up reflected by uneven packages and frequent end breaks. Also oligomer deposits must be removed by appropriate ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 67 - Chemical & Auxiliaries cleaning procedures that are costly, time-consuming and which decrease the overall efficiency of processing. Sarex’s Eliminator GLO & Reducon ACD Conc Sarex Chemicals (India) has introduced a novel auxiliary product which has been carefully formulated to resolve the issue of oligomers in polyester dyeing. Eliminator GLO from Sarex Chemicals is a unique auxiliary formulation which has been designed to keep the oligomers released from polyester fibres in the disperse form so that they may be easily drained off with the dyebath. Eliminator GLO thus prevents the redeposition of the oligomers onto the machine parts or the packages and also helps to keep the dyeing machine clean. Used at 1.5-3 g/l Eliminator GLO can be applied with the disperse dyestuffs and other auxiliaries and it can also be used separately for machine cleaning where stubborn deposits of oligomers, disperse dyes and other impurities need to be removed. Alkaline reduction clearing of medium-heavy depths of colour on polyester have traditionally used caustic soda together with sodium dithionite (hydrosulfite). However, this can give a high pollution load in the effluent and the alkalinity can give rise to shade changes where alkali-sensitive disperse dyestuffs are present. Oxy Group’s SPX-50 An innovative one-shot multifunctional auxiliary is SPX-50 which was exhibited at ITMA 2011 in Barcelona for the first time by the Oxy Group (Belgium). SPX-50 is described as an intelligent product that exhibits many different functions. This chemically-engineered formulation can be used as a detergent, peroxide stabiliser, dispersing agent, humectant, antifoam, lubricant and degreasing agent. In addition, SPX-50 can be used as a levelling agent in acid or reactive dyeings. SPX-50 can be used with reactive, direct, acid, disperse and indigoid dyestuffs. Commercial trials using SPX-50 have established significant cost savings in terms of water, energy and chemical consumption. Another benefit of using SPX-50 is claimed to be that it also allows lower temperatures to be used in scouring, bleaching and washing operations. Huntsman’s Eriopon LT Huntsman Textile Effects (Singapore) has introduced Eriopon LT for use with its innovative Avitera SE polyreactive dyestuffs. Eriopon LT is a nonionic / slightly cationic product specially formulated to be stable in hard water and resistant to the alkali and electrolytes encountered when washing off reactive dyes. Compared with the conventional use of six or more soaping / rinsing baths, the use of Eriopon LT ensures that high colour fastness to washing is achieved, using only three clearing cycles and with no overflow rinsing. Thus, the wash-off process is considerably shortened the saving time, water and energy. Eriopon LT also prevents back-staining by retaining hydrolysed reactive dyestuffs in the clearing bath. ■ AD: TAI HO SHING KNITTING MACHINERY CO., LTD ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 68 - Nonwovens / Technical Textiles Multi-disciplinary support boosts protective textiles by Seshadri Ramkumar Protective textiles are important and somewhat narrow segment of the technical textiles sector industry. A major share of the protective textiles industry serves national defense, and hence performance requirements and procurement policies can be complicated. However, major positive aspects of this segment are its importance to the defense of nations and the huge procurement budget associated with protective textiles. Protective textiles cater for many different segments starting from the banal antimicrobial fabrics to the high-end ballistic protective textiles, chemical, biological and nuclear protective materials. Developments are taking place rapidly in this sector with the utilization of new manufacturing methods such as nonwovens and hybrid composite technology, with the help of burgeoning technologies such as nano science and involving multiple disciplines ranging from chemistry to biology. Some of the important aspects of the highly specialized protective sector are: (1) requirement of superior performance standards, (2) adhering to the regulatory requirements, and (3) careful quality standards from production to delivery. Although cost is an important and integral component of success in this sector, given that the products of the protective textiles market are life-saving, cost may not occupy the first bench and it is the performance characteristics that will determine the fate and success of companies in this sector. Some developments of interest The US is the world’s leading spender in both research and development, and procurement of defense products. The US Department of Defense is constantly looking for new products such as chemical and biological protective suits, lightweight soft and hard body armors such as ballistic shield and helmets that can sense and shield soldiers, to name a few. Dr James Zheng of the Protective Executive Office-Soldier of the US Army in the recent international conference organized by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) has highlighted the US Department of Defense’s priority in developing next-generation antiballistic protective materials for soldier. Accordingly, one of the priorities is to reduce the weight of ballistic protective materials without sacrificing protection and performance. Dr Zheng indicated that the ideal objective for weight reduction is 15% from the current level. New fiber developments are also looked into such as biomimetic methods to develop novel antiballistic fibers and new methods of characterization and evaluation of ballistic characteristics of fibrous materials are also considered by the US Department of Defense. Many industries such as DSM, Honeywell, DuPont, GenTex, and ArmorSource, to name a few are working towards the development of next-generation antiballistic materials. Caption: Dr James Zheng spoke on new generation antiballistic protective materials for soldiers at the recent AATCC international conference Advanced product in market The research and development in the defense-industrial complex is predominantly supported by governments. Many research projects that have been funded by the US Department of Defense have transformative impact in other sections of society. Recently, two products that are in the market came out of the support for their fundamental research activity by the US government. A military decontamination wipe, Fibertect which is currently marketed by Chantilly, VA-based First Line Technology, LLC and the Reactive Surface Treatment (RST) technology, which is commercialized by the Alexium International Group are good examples of federally supported basic research that have led to commercialization. According to Alexium International Group, the RST was developed earlier on by the US Air Force Research Laboratory, and the technology helps the attachment of nano particles and other functional groups to enable water proofing, oil proofing and antimicrobial characteristics to materials like fabrics. Alexium’s Cleanshell treatment protects the soldiers from chemical agents. Most recently, this company has secured a US Army supply ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 69 - Nonwovens / Technical Textiles agreement. Accordingly, Alexium will supply US Natick Soldier System Centre with about 600 meters of materials that have Alexium’s Cleanshell repellant technology. In addition, Alexium’s surface treatment on nylon fabrics provides flame retardant capability to nylon fabrics that find applications in defense and industrial markets. Fibertect decontamination wipe is a story of good collaboration among US Department of Defense, University and industry. The fundamental research on Fibertect was carried out at Texas Tech University, the US and was funded by the US Army. This research has resulted in the commercialization of non-particulate flexible decontamination wipe by a small business company, First Line Technology, LLC., the US. The Fibertect fabric technology comes in different forms and shapes such as wipes and mitts. The basic fabric is manufactured in Waco, Texas by Hobbs Bonded Fibers-a needlepunching company. The fabric is converted to end-user friendly forms by First Line Technology and it is packaged and marketed by them. Fibertect technology provides a solution for an important requirement of the US Department of Defense and delivers a wipe that can be used on soldier’s skin and other sensitive military equipment. NATO sponsors protective textiles fabrics symposium Equally, European and NATO countries are also spending huge amounts in research and development efforts towards developing next-generation protective clothing. Recently, a NATO Advanced Study Institute organized a symposium on Defense Related Intelligent Textiles and Clothing for Ballistic and NBC (Nuclear, Biological, Chemical) Protection in Split, Croatia under the leaderships of Professor Paul Kiekens, University of Ghent, Belgium, Dr. Rene Rossi of EMPA, Switzerland and Professor Ana Marija Grancaric, University of Zagreb, Croatia. This leading forum brought together leading scientists from the US, Canada, The Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland, Croatia, Slovenia, Egypt and Finland to deliberate cutting- edge advances in the field of protective clothing. It is evident from this symposium that NATO and European countries are in line with the US with regard to the priorities concerning defense protection. Smarter and light-weight materials such as less bulky protective clothing have become the need of the hour. In this regard, synthetic fibers such as Kevlar, Spectra, Twaron, Dyneema, catalytic materials such as metal oxides etc. play important roles in the development of soft and hard armors and ChemBio fabrics with regard to protection from nerve chemical agents and toxic industry chemicals, US defense is looking into catalytic and adsorptive materials such as activated carbon, nano metal oxides, polyoxometalates, etc., in the development of next-generation ChemBio suits. With regard to biological protection, materials ranging from biological enzymes to copper oxides, silver, quaternary ammonium salts and halamines are being looked into. Caption: The soldier in the image applies Fibertect wipe on his partner to detoxify toxic chemicals (Image source: First Line Technology, LLC, Chantilly, VA, the US) In the area of chemical and biological protection, reduction in the weight of ChemBio suits is a high priority research task for the US government. New technologies and production methods are evaluated to reduce the bulk of ChemBio suits by cutting down the percentage of activated carbon in the current suits. One method is to utilize nanofibers as an adsorptive medium to adsorb off-gassing vapors from toxic chemicals and nerve agents. Although, this technology is feasible with regards to science and technology, producing nanofibers economically at large scale level limits the immediate application of nanofibers. Nanofiber webs because of their high surface area and mass to volume ratio create ample interest in the defense industry and academia to be used as adsorptive and protective medium. Different methods of nanofibers production such as needle electrospinning, needleless electrospinning and centrifugal methods are currently in practice to develop nanofibers for application in the field in defense and industrial sectors. Nanofibers can also be functionalized with enzymes and metal oxides such as ZnO, TiO2 and MnO to provide necessary catalytic activity to have chemical reactivity to certain toxins. These materials are smart to some extent and are commonly referred to as self-cleaning or self-detoxifying protective materials. Way forward As the important aspect of the protective textiles sector is to save the lives of the end-users such as warfighters and first responders, functionality and performance enhancements should be clearly looked into by the stake holders in the industry. With regard to the application of protective textiles in war theaters, textile and allied industries should work towards fulfilling the requirements of soldiers in the war field and emergency personnel in domestic theaters. In this regard, weight reduction of protective suits and antiballistic materials without comprising safety is an important issue. Textile materials that can not only shield the soldiers from multiple threats but also sense them early on will be an important requirement in the current scenario. In other words, textile materials such as phase change materials that can sense and adapt to the threat environments are essential. More important, lightweight active protective materials that can both sense and shield are required in the near future. It will be more useful if the materials are smart to simulate the active threat scenarios and then sense and shield. Multiple disciplines such as information technology, materials and mechanical engineering, chemistry and biology are required to solve complex problems in the development of agile and smart next-generation protective textile materials. ■ Seshadri Ramkumar is Manager of Nonwovens & Advanced Materials Laboratory, Texas Tech University, the US ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 70 - China Report “The next China” is still China by Kelvin Yau Despite facing challenges of spiraling wages and labor shortage, China’s significantly influential position in textile and garment production will remain invincible, because of its time-honored reliability in delivery lead-time, its skilled labor pool, and its sophisticated infrastructure, according to experts specializing in garment and footwear sourcing at the recent Prime Source Forum held in Hong Kong. “Our Chinese suppliers are eager to invest in new machinery and technology to make their work better, and they can meet our requirements, while understanding the rationales behind how we Italians work. And the most important of all is that Chinese-made products are fairly priced and delivered on time,” noted Alessandra Cocchi, Managing Director of EastMax Fashion Ltd, the buying office of a renowned Italian fashion house. She added that Chinese manufacturers have the ability and technique to execute complicated designs. “When it comes to complicated products and design styles, and high-end garments, there is no expertise elsewhere like China at the moment. Other countries are relatively young; and comparing with other countries that could produce similar products, China’s production cost is still appealing to us.” Caption: The eagerness to invest in new machinery is one thing that maintains China’s significant role in the global textile and garment industry (Image source: Jiangsu Zhongheng Dyeing and Finishing Co Ltd) “Delivery lead-time is a determining factor in the fashion industry. The infrastructure is very good in China, where most raw materials can be delivered on time. And extending delivery lead-time to get a cheaper price just doesn’t work in the fashion industry. The speed to the market is much more important than price itself,” said David Hampson, Country Manager of The Jones Group, a designer and marketer of brands such as Nine West, which has four decades of experience in the footwear industry. Challenges faced by China In discussing the next country that could possibly replace China’s position in terms of its significant influence in the global textile, garment and footwear industries from the sourcing perspective, industry experts at the forum unanimously concurred that “the next China” is China. Nevertheless, according to Hui Jiang, the Vice President of the China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textiles (CCCT), China is faced with internal and external challenges. “Internally, China’s costs of raw materials and labor are much higher than that in other emerging countries, and its energy price has been growing at a pace faster than that in the developed countries,” he said. Also, China’s overcapacity in the textile sector, the appreciating renminbi and the rising domestic costs are also making Chinese businesses less competitive in the global market, said Mr Hui, not to mention the country’s insufficiency in innovation and design, lack of its own indigenous brands and weakening price competitiveness. In view of the labor shortage problem in China, the CCCT Vice President said the Chinese textile and garment industry should consider relocating itself to less developed yet more densely populated areas. “Workers will no longer suffer from homesickness,” he said. Caption: Industry experts speak on China’s challenges and opportunities at Prime Source Forum 2012 “What is to blame for lack of competitiveness of Chinese companies in the global market is neither the quality nor the variety of products, but the disorderly competition among Chinese companies,” Mr Hui said, stressing the importance of developing strategic partnership among companies, and restructuring in the textile and garment sector. When everyone is talking about cutting costs, industry experts at Prime Source Forum suggested alternative solutions to stay competitive. The first thing to do is to change the mindset about cost. China’s cheap factories are gone, but this has provided a great opportunity for the country. “Labor shortage and rising labor cost are the two major factors for the UK to drive improvement in productivity. Right now, China has the opportunity to improve its productivity and profitability, and to reduce its lead-time. All these problems are fantastic opportunities for the footwear industry and apparel industry alike,” stated Mr Hampson. ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 71 - DORNIER MACHINERY (SHANGHAI) CO., LTD Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 72 - China Report Men’s clothing industry of Huizhou: The road towards brand upgrade Huizhou (惠州) is a city is located in the southeast part of Guangdong Province (廣東省) and borders with Shenzhen (深圳) and Hong Kong (香港). It belongs to the Pearl River Delta Economic Zone (珠三角經濟區). The city governs two districts, three counties and two national development areas. It owns the land area 11,200 sq. km and the sea area 4,520 sq. km. The permanent residents in the city are 4.6 million. In 2011, Huizhou realized GDP RMB 209.73 billion, tax income RMB 73.71 billion and investment on fixed assets RMB 100.5 billion. The economic output and financial strength of Huizhou ranked sixth in Guangdong Province (廣東省). In recent years, Huizhou aims at developing electronic information, petrochemical, textile and garment, auto parts, building materials and modern service industry. In addition, it has established a leading industrial clusters and unique regional brands. As a result of the outstanding performance of men’s clothing industry, Huicheng District (惠城區) in Huizhou was entitled to “China Men’s Clothing Town” by China Textile Industry Association (中國紡織工業聯合會) in 2004. Establish the leading men’s clothing industry At the beginning of China reform and open-up in 1978, the textile and garment industry of Huizhou developed rapidly by virtue of neighboring Hong Kong and Macau (澳門) convenient transportation and sufficient workforce. Many investors from Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan (臺灣) set up plants in Huizhou over the last thirty years, including Jeanswest (真維斯), one of the large-scale garment enterprises. A large number of medium and small-scale private garment enterprises also boomed here. Nowadays, a certain scale of textile and garment industrial cluster has already formed in Huizhou, which centered at Huicheng District, characterized in men’s clothing and the investment comes from Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan. Caption: Textile and garment industry is one of the most important economic support industries of Huizhou City By the end of 2010, the city has established around 3,000 textile and garment enterprises, with over 180,000 employees, manufacturing 360 million pieces of clothing each year. In Huizhou District alone, there are 2,300 textile and garment enterprises and produced 250 million pieces including 200 million pieces of men’s clothing each year. The annual sales are over RMB 10 billion. Caption: China headquarters of Jeanswest is situated in Huicheng District, Huizhou City “The total output of men’s clothing accounts for over 60% of the city. The products are mainly men’s shirts, suits and casual wear. This is attributed to the professional men’s clothing manufacturing enterprises in the city, such as Virtue (富紳), Lomren (老銘人), Velly (威利), Sizhouta (泗洲塔),” said Liao Zhengqiang (廖鎮強), Secretary-General of Textile and Garment Association of Huizhou (惠州市紡織服裝協會秘書長). According to the data of the Association, the real output value of the city’s textile and garment industry was RMB 16.4 billion in 2011, increasing by 9.9% compared to the previous year. While the export of textile products was US$ 1.357 billion, increasing by 23%, covering 5.9% of the total output of the city. The textile and garment products were mainly sold in Hong Kong, Europe and USA, Canada, South Africa, Middle East etc. The textile and garment industry has been listed as one of major economic sectors of Huizhou. The development of garment manufacturing industry encourages the formation and improvement of local industrial chain. At present, the textile and garment industry of Huizhou has formed a whole industrial chain covering spinning, weaving, printing and dyeing, accessory, parts, design, production and sale. The leading garment enterprises such as Virtue, Jeanswest, Lomren, Velley have owned the internationally advanced 3D automatic design, make-up, cutting CAD systems, and high-grade shirt and suit production lines, shaping machines, open-ended spinning, color automatic printing and dyeing machines and other production equipment imported from France, Italy and Japan. These machines ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 73 - ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITEDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 74 - China Report shorten the production cycle and improve production flexibility and competition strength. Seek for transformation and upgrade Though being granted the title of “China Men’s Clothing Town”, Huicheng District has not formed its brand advantage in nearly 30-year development under the restriction of technology, capital and operation mechanism. “Our garment enterprises mainly make OEM business and are lack of exclusive brands, especially well-known brands in China.” Secretary-General Liao said. The governmental website of Huizhou indicates that by the end of 2011, Huizhou possessed 100 registered trademarks for garments, including two well-known trademarks of China (Virtue and Lomren) and other four famous trademarks of Guangdong Province. The city also possessed a brand product of China (VIRTUE shirt), four brand products of Guangdong Province and six famous products of Huizhou. In fact, these data is not very outstanding when it’s compared in the basis of 3,000 enterprises. “Many enterprises consider that they could operate well by OEM. Establishment of any brand requires channel and long-term investment and most enterprises are not willing to bear this risk. ” Liao said. “Jeanswest (China headquarters at Huicheng District, Huizhou and VIRTUE are the brands that people are familiar,” Liao said. He was proud when he talked about these two brands though he was unsatisfied with the current situation of local garment enterprises establishing their own brands. In fact, Sumlong (聖馬龍) men’s clothing series, Yizhichun (衣之純) casual garments, Velly suits, Naqi (納奇) men’s clothing, Sizhouta trousers have certain reputation in South China. Jeanswest is not strange to domestic consumers of China. This casual garment brand was originated from Australia and formally entered the domestic market of China in 1993 after it was purchased by Hong Kong Early Light Group (香港旭日集團). The company has established 2,800 monopolized shops in 20 provinces of China now and Jeanswest has become one of top ten casual garment brands. Caption: The brand Garment Station of VIRTUE created the unique marketing mode Liao said that it may be more important that Jeanswest has selected Huizhou as its standing point for entering the domestic market of China. China headquarters and its manufacture plant as well as a trading company of Jeanswest are located in Huizhou. This fuels development of local textile and garment industry. Virtue men’s clothing, established in 1990, is an original enterprise based in Huizhou and has become a name brand of China. From its major product “Virtue shirt” to now suits, trousers and T-shirts, Virtue has obtained its position in the market of men’s suits and commercial and casual garments after 20-year efforts. Virtue is one of export enterprises with their own brands. It also manufactures OEM products for domestic large-scale enterprises and international famous garment enterprises. Caption: The general standard of Huizhou City for knitted mercerized cotton industry improves competition strength At the current men’s clothing market, the price advantage is reducing, and the brand advantage is becoming more and more important. Therefore, the textile industry of Huizhou aiming at men’s clothing sector has noticed to its present situation of less brands, weak bran operation and low market share. Different with the traditional marketplace, the garments in the “Garment Station” (衣站) shall be first considered size, and then price, style and color in order. “For customers, this mode avoids lack of the size when they determine color and style; for us, it is unnecessary to select and distribute goods and the inventory of garments can be met. The quantity and category of goods that can be arranged in the same marketplace will be remarkably improved. ” Wang said. The brand of Garment Station is marketed by combination of network and actual goods, and the market feedback is good. The development plan of the textile and garment industry of Huizhou for the “12th Five-year Period” 1. Take garment as a leading sector, mainly develop the upper industries such as chemical fiber’ s raw materials, garment’s fabrics and form a complete industrial chain; 2. Promote construction of “China Men’s Clothing Town”, develop the exhibition industry, accessory industry, information industry and logistics industry relating to men’s clothing, and build up Huizhou City as the center of men’s clothing brands and designers; 3. Make processing technologies, equipment technologies, process and environmental protection technologies, information technologies advanced in region, China or the world; major enterprises and products are internationally leading, and significantly improve brand reputation and competition strength; 4. Further strengthen the leading position of mercerized cotton industry in China, improve the scale of knitted industry, woolen industry and woven garment industry, and promote development of processing and after-finishing processing of special textile raw materials. (Continued on p90) ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 75 - THE HONG KONG RESEARCH INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL (HKRITA)Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 76 - Retail Scene Universal transformation: Spring/Summer 2013 SPINEXPO has recently launched its Spring/Summer 2013 which aims to stride forward and explore the world and beyond into new unchartered territory to get inspiration. It advocates transforming ourselves and our world on a universal scale, including four themes, namely cosmic transformation, aquatic transformation, cultural transformation, and nomadic transformation. Cosmic transformation Reaching out into space, harnessing the lights of stars, the moon and planets to create an element of sci-fi and cultural futurism. Nomadic transformation Inspired by the earth and what we can create from what the earth offers, travelling the globe to discover surviving traditions and obscure cultures, maintaining the artisan. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 77 - Retail Scene Aquatic transformation Exploring deep into the ocean, into an underwater world of darkness punctuated by bright, unusual forms reflecting light and movement. Cultural transformation Immersing oneself in the ideals and beauty of the art world, from performance to painting and literature, cultural influences offer delicacy, subtlety and refined elegance. Source: SPINEXPO ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 78 - Retail Scene Armani ties up with Indian Genesis Luxury The Armani Group announce that from April 20, it will be entering into a partnership with Genesis Luxury Fashion Pvt. Ltd. in India to expand its operations there. Genesis Luxury will be Armani’s exclusive partner in the country for the Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani and AJ Armani Jeans brands. The Armani Group, with Genesis Luxury, intends to grow its retail and wholesale networks in India to offer the Armani brand portfolio to a wider audience through freestanding, department and specialty stores. At present the Armani retail network in India consists of one Giorgio Armani boutique in New Delhi, one Emporio Armani store in New Delhi and one in Mumbai. These existing stores will be taken over by Genesis Luxury and over the next five years Armani and Genesis Luxury plan to open around 20 freestanding monobrand stores in major cities such as Chennai, Bangalore and Kolkatta. Gucci safeguards Korean historic artworks Gucci announced a five-year sponsorship agreement with National Trust Korea (NTK) designed to preserve traditional Korean heritage, at the opening ceremony of Gucci’s special archival exhibit at the Korea Furniture Museum, entitled “Timeless Touch of Craftsmanship: Korean Heritage Meets 91 Years of Gucci Archive.” Gucci will support the NTK, for five years through a total donation of KRW 500 million. The donation will be used for NTK projects that focus on preservation of historical Korean sites and cultural resources in Korea. As a brand with over 90 years of heritage, Gucci is dedicated to preserving significant historic artworks and cultural legacies for future generations. Gucci and NTK share the same vision for cultural heritage, and the NTK is the perfect organization to translate donation into real help for preserving Korean heritage. “Gucci and National Trust Korea believe in the importance of cultural history, and I am honored that Gucci can take a part in preserving Korea’s beautiful traditional heritage. Respecting local heritage is fundamental to Gucci, a brand that has itself been sustained thanks to the impeccable craftsmanship of our artisans across generations in Italy,” said Patrizio di Marco, Gucci President and CEO. “It has been 14 years since we first opened direct business in Korea and today it has become one of our most important markets: thus we are pleased to make this commitment that will hopefully inspire future generations,” di Marco continued. “Korea is an essential market for Gucci,” continued di Marco, “We are dedicated not only to serving our sophisticated Korean customers with exclusive services and products, but also to benefiting the Korean community though on-going social investments.” This announcement came in conjunction with the opening ceremony for Gucci’s three week special exhibit with the Korea Furniture Museum (KOFUM) under the theme of “Timeless Touch of Craftsmanship: Korean Heritage Meets 91 Years of Gucci Archive.” For the exhibit, Gucci brought 70 pieces from its archive located at the Gucci Museo in Florence, Italy, for the first time to Korea. VF Corp divests stake in John Varvatos to Lion Capital The owners of John Varvatos Enterprises Inc, VF Sportswear, Inc, a subsidiary of VF Corporation, and John Varvatos, announced that they have completed the sale of the majority ownership interest in the company to Lion Capital LLP, with Mr Varvatos retaining an ownership position. Terms were not disclosed. John Varvatos launched his namesake brand in 2000 with a collection of tailored clothing and sportswear, and it now represents an entire men’s lifestyle collection that includes footwear, bags, belts, eyewear, limited-edition watches and men’s fragrances, as well as the younger, edgier John Varvatos Star USA Collection and Converse by John Varvatos. The John Varvatos brand was added to VF Corporation’s portfolio in conjunction with its 2003 acquisition of the Nautica brand. Lion Capital will continue to operate the business as John Varvatos Enterprises, Inc., headquartered in New York City. Mr Varvatos will maintain his role as Chairman and Chief Creative Officer. Zara opens a New York City store Zara, the Inditex Group’s fashion retailer, inaugurated a New York City store showcasing Zara’s revamped architecture and interior design scheme. The establishment, in the Tishman Building (666 Fifth Avenue, at the intersection of 52nd Street), enjoys a unique location at the heart of one of the world’s prime shopping destinations. The shop’s layout reflects an innovative approach to interior design that puts Zara fashions at center stage. Caption: Zara’s New York City store The new Fifth Avenue Zara is the retailer’s largest outlet in the United States, encompassing more than 3,000 square metres spread over three floors. The shop opens onto Fifth Avenue and 52nd Street with five display windows and a façade spanning more than 23 metres. The store will employ 450 people. The new store image is based on four principles: beauty, clarity, functionality and sustainability. The store design’s primary emphasizes simplicity as part of the retailer’s ongoing mission to facilitate direct contact with customers. In each of the three floors, the store is organized around two long corridors or “catwalks” that lead to intimate boutique-like cubes on each side. Each space showcases a specific collection. ■ For the most updated news, please go to www.AdsaleATA.com ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 79 - X-RITE ASIA PACIFIC LIMITEDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 80 - Show Watcher Turkey’s participation at APLF The leather and fashion trade fairs Materials, Manufacturing & Technology (MM&T) and Fashion Access saw approximately 1,800 exhibitors in Hong Kong. Caption: Visitors at APLF on the lookout for new products A noteworthy activity in MM&T this year was the participation of Turkey as focus country. The Turkish pavilion featured over 60 Turkish tanners. Lemi Tolunay, Chairman of the Istanbul Leather and Leather Products Exporters Association, remarked that “fairs and other promotional activities are crucial for expanding Turkish market share in Asia, particularly China and Hong Kong. Being focus country at MM&T creates a positive effect on developing trade relations between Turkey and the whole of Asia.” Over 180 cotton professionals attracted to event in Qingdao Over 180 representatives of 97 renowned cotton textile enterprises from China, Hong Kong and Southeast Asia recently attended the fourth COTTON USA Cotton School in Qingdao, Shandong, China. During the event, lectures, panel discussions and interactive sessions were organized to help enterprises understand more about the US cotton industry and system in terms of planting, production, classification, trade, contract sanctity and purchase of raw cotton. Particularly, cotton professionals from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), the American Cotton Shippers’ Association (ACSA), the National Cotton Council of America, the America’s Cotton Marketing Cooperatives (AMCOT), the Supima Association of America and the Cotton Incorporated delivered presentations on such topics as the US cotton classification system, growing regions, standard purchase procedures, contract performance and risk management. Besides, at the two-day event, representatives from both the China Cotton Association and the China National Textile and Apparel Council made speeches on the cotton and textile industrial development situations in China. Panel discussions were also held for industry professionals to exchange ideas about the current status of the global, Chinese and US cotton and textile industries. Karin Malmstrom, Director of CCI China, said at the event: “The US is a long-term partner with China for providing high quality cotton to satisfy import requirements. For enterprises, good, reliable raw materials not only can fundamentally ensure high-quality products, but also are essential to strengthening core competitiveness. As global cotton textile industries have experienced structural changes during 2010 and 2011 along with the unprecedented fluctuation of cotton prices, soaring labor costs and appreciation of the renminbi, Chinese textile enterprises continue to cope with great challenges from both domestic and overseas markets. CCI also organized a Qingdao Roadshow within the meeting area to promote its current theme in China, “COTTON USA: Naturally Color Your World”, and on display was a colorful video and photo exhibition featuring the campaign’s signature elements including the American Quilt, modeling competition and nationwide roadshow. Caption: The cotton market has reached a comparatively reasonable level, notes Karin Malmstrom at the fourth COTTON USA Cotton School CCI has convened the COTTON USA Cotton School in China every two years since 2006, to enable the cotton textile enterprises in China and Southeast Asia to develop a further understanding of the US cotton industry. Dornbirn-MFC to be held in September The 51st Dornbirn Man-Made Fibers Congress (Dornbirn-MFC) will be held during September 2012 in Austria. The future challenges are already accounted for in the choice of main themes for 2012 showing a more accentuated character of innovation and relevance. As introduced by the organizer, the plenary session will start on the opening day with a lecture including a discussion on the topic: “Mobility 2050 – Trends an Scenarios” held by the Zukunftsinstitut Kelkheim (Germany), followed by a study of the Hochschule Niederrhein / Germany together with a Consultant Company from Germany on the topic “Effects of a Sustainable Procurement of Textiles and Garments on the Purchase Behaviour of Consumers”. With more than 30 individual presentations during all 2.5 days “Fiber Innovations (Sustainability)” is leading, followed by some 20 on “Fibers and Textiles in Automotive (Mobility)” due to a strong participation of car manufacturers and their suppliers. The topics “Unconventional Fiber Applications” with more than 15 presentations, “Man-made Fibers for Environmental Protection”, “Medical Applications” and “Technical Nonwovens (Filtration, Membranes)” will be represented with some 10 presentations each as well as “EU Research Projects”. The organizer notes the strong Japanese delegation, consisting of representatives from leading fiber manufacturers will present its newest developments in the various main themes. ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 81 - YEONG GUAN HAUR INDUSTRIAL LTD Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 82 - Show Watcher China Interdye 2012: more diversified and segmented by Staff Reporters The 12th edition of China International Dye Industry, Pigments and Textile Chemicals Exhibition (China Interdye) was held during April 11-13 in Shanghai World Expo Exhibition & Convention Center. Compared with the fair's last edition, exhibits seen at China Interdye 2012 were more diverse and segmented, covering various advanced eco-friendly dye, organic pigments and intermediates. One of the show’s highlights was the new “Auxiliary, Environmental Protection & Printing Equipment and Instruments Zone”. According to the organizers, on the exhibition space of about 30,000 sqm, some 500 exhibitors had presented their cutting-edge products. About 83% of them are producers of dyestuffs and organic pigment, and the rest are suppliers of auxiliary and printing equipment. Overseas and domestic leading enterprises, including DyStar, BASF, Tanatex, Huntsman, Yorkshire, Clariant, Lamberti, Bozzetto, Rudolf, M.Dohmen, Lonsen, Runtu, Jihua Group, Yabang, Hwalle, Transfar, Dymatic, Anoky, Meilida and JECO exhibited their products at the fair. Besides, while four pavilions of India, Korea, Taiwan and Tianjing province have enlarged their exhibition scale this year, many other overseas enterprises from Holland, Spain, Singapore and the UK participated in the fair for the first time, say the organizers. Professional seminars were concurrently held by the China Dyeing and Printing Industry Association, the China Wool Textile Industry Association, the China Knitting Industry Association, the China Bast and Leaf Fibers Textile Association, the Ink Branch of the China Daily-used Chemical Industry Association, the Masterbatches Speciality Committee and the Textile Printing Auxiliaries Speciality Committee of China Dyestuff Industry Association (CDIA). China Interdye 2012 was organized by the CDIA, the China Dyeing and Printing Association, the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade, the Shanghai Sub-Council and the China Chamber of International Commerce Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, and co-organized by the Shanghai International Exhibition Service Co. Ltd. Some exhibitors of China Interdye 2012 Clariant: products respond to environmental challenges Clariant exhibited a series of its innovative products under the subject of “Clariant, representing excellent performances by continuous innovation”. The company provides products, processes and technologies which respond to environmental challenges. For example, the foam ecological finishing technology developed by Clariant has set a new standard for wash-and-wear finishing process. The new product combination based on foam application process can improve fabric quality, shorten production process, save water, power and time while meeting the requirements for environmental protection in various aspects, says Clariant. Caption: Clariant promotes innovation The new all-in-one bleaching assistant is essential to the process of Blue Magic. With economic and ecological advantages on the basis of Imerol Blue Liquid, it can save 50% water and 40% energy and shorten the processing time by half. In addition to more whiteness, the process can enhance productivity, simplify treatment process, and improve uniformity and dyeing performance. The products are suitable for all processes in the textile industrial chain, including the assistants applicable for bobbin dyeing and beam dyeing, migration inhibitor for continual dyeing and disperse dyes with optimal wet fastness. For example, Solusoft SIH is a hydrophilic organic silicon micro-emulsion, which has supreme soft handle and is suitable for all kinds of fibers, according to Clariant. To cope with the increasing demand from China, Clariant established a factory at Daya Bay, Huizhou Province,last year for manufacturing various surface active agents. DyStar: high quality and fashion effects emphasized DyStar’s exhibits include active chemical dyestuffs and disperse chemical dyestuffs, which are environmentally-friendly with optimal fastness. These dyestuffs integrate applicability, reliability and cost-efficiency. To improve its competitive strength in the field of denim, the company stresses high quality and fashion effects in the dyeing and washing process. Caption: DyStar’s stand China’s concerns over the environment has put pressure on the textile industry. General Manager of DyStar (Shanghai) Trading Co. Ltd., Simon Collinson, says DyStar is ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 83 - ZHEJIANG TRANSFAR CO., LTDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 84 - Show Watcher seeking comprehensive and sustainable developments through developing new products; optimizing the production process to minimize the consumption of raw materials, water, energy, dyes and dyeing chemicals; and issuing a sustainable development report according to the Global Sustainability Initiatives (GRI). Mr Collinson says that DyStar will continually develop the business in the field of supply chain. “We will catch up the changing market environment by virtue of innovation so as to provide better services for our clients, retailers and brands. In addition, we will complete the main extension projects in Asia for quickly accessing the core of textile industry.” Huntsman: help users achieve sustainable development Huntsman Textile Effects represented some of their latest dyestuff and aids products for a full range of applications from nonwovens to automobile fabrics and garment. For example, their AVITERA SE 3 reactive dyestuff contains new active groups to ensure fast, high-efficiency dyeing and fixation; AVITERA SE series dyestuff provides an ultralow-temperature, low-consumption treatment system for cellulose fiber and their blended fabrics. As for pretreatment/fluorescent whitening agent (FWA), Huntsman provides a full range of fluorescent whitening agents to cover all major fiber categories and applications and ensure outstanding reproductivity and quality. Caption: Jay Naidu (right) According to Jay Naidu, Global Marketing Director of Huntsman Textile Effects, “We are fully aware that the printing and dyeing industry is faced with increasingly greater environmental pressure. In particular, they are required to constantly reduce water and energy consumption. To meet these energy-saving and environmental requirements, we have successfully developed some new products which may reduce water and energy consumption by 50% or more. Also, these technologies can reduce the entire dyeing time and improve productivity, thus helping dye houses to further reduce energy consumption.” Whether for the global market or for the Chinese market, Jay Naidu says the company will focus on end users. “We will intensify our efforts to develop effects and technologies needed by end users,” he says. Different industrial sectors, such as nonwovens, automobile fabrics, garment and wool spinning are the targets. Based on specific needs and features of these sectors, Huntsman is to develop some special products with high technical contents to meet their needs and help them accomplish sustainable development. Matex: eliminate harmful chemicals Singapore-headquartered Matex International Limited is among the top enterprises in the international chemical dye industry and is the first foreign-invested Singapore company to actively introduce B-type bi-functional reactive dyes in the Chinese market. Caption: Dro Tan, Executive Director of Matex (2nd from left), and his team Dro Tan, Executive Director of Matex, says technology is Matex’s driver. “We carefully select raw materials used before production. We make continuous efforts to add value by improving dyeing quality, reducing production costs and production cycle, with a target to achieve higher productivity through eco-friendly solutions,” he says. The company has set up R&D, application services, quality control and material testing centers in Singapore and Shanghai. At the show, it launched two ranges of new dyestuffs, Megafix BPSN range and Megafix RE range, mainly used for very deep, rich and sharp-colored economical prints. The Megafix BPSN reactive range has a wide spectrum of shades with high color fixation rate while meeting the stringent international environmental requirements. The Megafix RE proven range of poly functional reactive can achieve low-temperature dyeing of 40 °C.With an improved fixation rate of up to 90% , this reduces dye recipe dosages. Pulcra: meet the targets of energy saving and emission reducing Pulcra Chemicals is engaged in developing innovative products to meet the needs of textile enterprises in spinning, sizing, pretreatment, dyeing, printing, softening and finishing. Chen Bangming, Marketing Manager of Pulcra Chemicals China, highlighted some of their exhibits at the exhibition. To accomplish energy-saving and emission-reducing targets, the 3-in-1 penetrating agents for pretreatment and cold pad-batch process from Turkey were introduced to the market late last year. While most penetrating agents are currently powder agents, Pulcra’s new products are liquid agents, which received favorable feedback from customers, Mr Chen says. On developing environmentally-friendly products, Mr Chen says, “Our raw materials are extracted from vegetable oil and animal oil and most of them are biodegradable. Our chemical products are (Continued on p97) ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 85 - ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITEDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 86 - Corporate Profile German technology to stay ahead in competitive market by Gigi Shuai in Shanghai Caption: Truetzschler Textile Machinery (Shanghai) Through constant development in the past 120 years, Truetzschler has established production bases and service agents in textile centers around the world, with more than 2,000 employees. “Leveraging original German design and technical innovation to provide textile enterprises with high-quality equipment and services” has been the principle of the company, which specializes in the technologies of spinning, nonwovens and card clothing. In the competitive market of China, Truetzschler Textile Machinery (Shanghai) was set up in November 2002. The company’s production facility in Qingpu, Shanghai, has last year completed a new phase of expansion, with the space increasing from 6,000m² to 23,000m². Investing in R&D Harald Schoepp, General Manager of Truetzschler in Shanghai, said that a professional R&D team is vital for the company to remain competitive in the textile machinery market. Vigorous R&D efforts and constant innovation have contributed to the success of the company, according to Mr Schoepp. It is important to meet the ever-changing needs of customers through the most advanced technology, raw materials and production process. Caption: Harald Schoepp Truetzschler invests about 25 million euros each year in R&D. The new product R&D center in the company’s headquarters in Germany has a dedicated team comprising experts from a wide range of disciplines: construction, textiles, ventilation, electric engineering, as well as experts in software, image processing and driver technology. The company sells its products around the world through its five branch companies. To ensure consistent quality, the branch companies maintain close contact with the R&D center in Germany. Mr Schoepp stressed that all products sold by Truetzschler around the world shared the same models and configurations. “They are designed by the R&D center in the head office in Germany and share the same design, technology and quality management standard. In this way, we can provide top-grade technology for our customers and maintain our leading position in the market,” he said. A large market for high-tech enterprises In addition to having production facilities in the US, Brazil, India and China, Truetzschler runs a number of technical service centers and engages in close cooperation with more than 80 agents around the world. In Asia, China and India are among the fastest growing markets for the company’s products as the shift of the world’s spinning market to Asia continues. Currently, the labor cost as well as energy consumption in China and India are substantially going up. Some labor-intensive textile factories may leave for other countries to take advantage of the lower production cost. However, China remains a production base for a large number of high-tech textile enterprises instead of labor-intensive enterprises. On the other hand, demand for textiles is still booming. Young people, in particular, have substantial demand for garments and textiles. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 87 - Corporate Profile Caption: TC 07 cards and auto leveller drawframe TD 03 of Truetzschler Under the influence of the Euro debt crisis, rising raw material price and labor cost, textile enterprises in the coastal areas in China experienced a slowdown late last year. The sales of Truetzschler also underwent some fluctuation. However, overall the company has performed well and exceeded the sales targets for the year. The bottleneck in customers’ capital sourcing and the fluctuation in raw material and yarn prices are the main factors responsible for the market fluctuation, according to Mr Schoepp. The Euro debt crisis has some impact on China’s textile industry but it is not significant. Since the establishment of its Shanghai branch company in 2002, Truetzschler has been competing with international and domestic textile machinery manufacturers. Mr Schoepp observed that Chinese textile enterprises today do not only focus on production input and cost reduction, but also on improving overall product quality and investment returns. Meanwhile, textile machinery manufacturing in China has witnessed constant development and has intensified R&D inputs. He regards competition as part of healthy market development, and the company will continue to promote the various advantages of its products, such as high productivity, high efficiency and low energy consumption, so as to remain in leading position. A family-owned enterprise with a long history, Truetzschler can offer the advantages of flexibility and quick response. Specifically, it can promptly identify and forecast market trends, make quick readjustment and respond to market changes. Currently, over 80% of its sales revenue comes from the spinning segment, followed by card clothing. With constant growth of the nonwovens industry, Truetzschler expects the nonwovens segment to soon become the second largest operation of the company. Truetzschler (Shanghai) recently set up a nonwoven division to meet customers’ needs in the growing market. In order to give more benefits to customers, Truetzschler is making efforts to ensure reliable operation and simple maintenance of its equipment as a way to reduce production costs. It also ensures that its machinery can save more energy and utilize the raw materials. ■ (Continued from “Industry News” p13) shortages had downsized their production capacity to merely 50%. Mr Parekh said that investors were ready to relocate their existing manufacturing setups to Bangladesh and elsewhere in the world if the present situation did not improve to facilitate businesses growth. Pakistan’s imports of textile machinery fell by 58% to US$19.39 million in March, compared to US$47.12 million in the same month of last year, showing a decline of US$27.73 million, according to Pakistan Bureau of Statistics. On a month-on-month basis, Pakistan’s imports of textile machinery dropped by 56.25% in March as compared to US$45.28 million in February, representing a slump of US$25.89 million. During the July-March period of the current fiscal year, Pakistan imported US$316.04 million worth of textile machinery as against US$357.23 million in the same period of last fiscal year, showing a fall of 11.53% or US$41.19 million. Chairman of Pakistan Apparel Forum (PAF), Muhammad Javed Bilwani, also attributed the huge decline in textile machinery imports to the energy shortage and hooliganism, saying “textile manufacturing groups in the country have witnessed decline in exports for nearly all of their product items due to political uncertainty and poor law and order.” He said the country’s manufacturing growth also declined because Karachi and Punjab, both key centers of the country’s textile exports, were badly hit either by energy shortage or by violence. Sri Lanka Sri Lankan apparel industry on upward movement Sri Lanka’s apparel industry is on an upward movement, and the country is gaining momentum as a reputed garment supplier, said John Rankin, British High Commissioner. At the Sri Lanka Apparel Sourcing Association’s 19th AGM held recently, he said, “It was impressive to learn that for the Athens Olympics, the ‘Fast Skin’ swimwear by UK-owned Speedo was manufactured in Sri Lanka. It is understood that Nike’s track and field outfits for the London Olympics will be made in Sri Lanka.” Sharing the experience from his 13-month visit in Sri Lanka, he remarked that the country’s factories are clean and modern with good working conditions for workers. He added that the industry is moving away from low-value products towards high-value niche garments by using latest high-tech fabrics, particular in sportswear and women’s underwear. “The apparel industry’s work in supporting sustainability, implementing environmentally friendly strategies and carbon-neutral manufacturing, including the world’s first carbon-neutral bra by Marks and Spencer produced here in Sri Lanka. It is delighted to see the growth in Sri Lanka’s own domestic design process, based on what their customers want,” said Mr Rankin. He stressed that Sri Lanka is also taking a regional lead in South Asia in implementing “green” measures and ethical manufacturing practices. ■ For daily news of the textile industry, please visit www.AdsaleATA.com ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 88 - Corporate Profile Eco-awareness and innovation take priority by Ngo Van Tuan Caption: Nan Yang Textile Group, Thailand Established in 1958, Nan Yang Textile Group is a textile and garment manufacturer based in Thailand. It has 18 affiliated domestic and overseas companies specializing in all parts of the textile industry ranging from spinning, knitting, dyeing, and finishing to printing and garment-making with a total work force of 14,000 people. This vertical integration development makes it the leading textile group in Thailand. The company has three spinning mills of 122,000 spindles equipped with modern spinning machines from Switzerland, Germany, Japan, and Italy, and is using the high quality cotton imported from the US and, the world’s best cotton producing countries. “Nan Yang” branded yarn (including combed yarn, semi-combed yarn, or open-end yarn in 100% cotton and blended cotton/polyester) has been achieving satisfaction from both domestic and international customers in Korea, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Germany, Spain and Italy. Producing top quality knitted fabric of various ranges from pieced-dyed, yarn-dyed to printed fabric as well as eco-friendly ones which have been supplied for both domestic and global brands with monthly capacity of 3,000 tons, Nan Yang is currently the biggest textile mill in Thailand, and a major player for textile innovation and technology in Asia. ATA: ATA Journal Mr Tuangsitthisombat: Vibul Tuangsitthisombat, President of Nan Yang Textile Group ATA: What are some of your latest product developments? Mr Tuangsitthisombat: Functionality is a mainstream for apparel. Our products are developed based on the idea of how we can innovate fabrics to enhance wearers’ lifestyle. For instance, our “Dry-Tech” fabric is uniquely engineered to optimize moisture-wicking properties that keep wearers comfortable and dry across a range of activities, while our “Syntrel” fabric is a moisture management fabric engineered for high performance activities; its ability to move moisture quickly and in great quantity without absorption makes microfiber the perfect fabric for sport and extreme work situations. Besides, our “Stretch it” is an elastane-blended fabric to increase comfort and softness, improve body-shaping, and enhance drape and shape retention. ATA: How do you differentiate your products from your competitors’? Mr Tuangsitthisombat: We differentiate ourselves by delivering product creation, and creating end to end product creation process. That’s why we develop Nan Yang Inspiration Center (NIC) in 2009 as a “one-stop-resource” service center to customers for the purpose of quick processing of samples and orders. The NIC is fully geared for innovation and product developments. It provides a total business solution through its vertically integrated supply chain aiming to completely serve the clients in their every need for product development, new cutting-edge fabrics and apparels. Caption: Nan Yang Textile Group’s spinning nill adopts advanced spinning machines ATA: Nan Yang Textile Group has done a lot in promoting sustainability in production. Could you tell us more about this? Mr Tuangsitthisombat: Environmental awareness is one of our core offerings. Our organic yarns and fabrics are certified by Control Union Certifications that we can meet with Global Organic Textile Standard; GOTS for organic cotton yarns as well as OE 100 and OE Blend standards for organic cotton fabrics. Apart from organic cotton, we also use Recycled Cotton, Recycled Polyester and Recycled CVC in our products. And not only in sourcing the ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 89 - ADSALE EXHIBITION SERVICES LTDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 90 - Corporate Profile Caption: Vibul Tuangsitthisombat products, we are trying as much as we can to control our processes to be least harmful to environment including water treatment, water consumption and improving energy yield. Long-term sustainable strategy is part of Nan Yang’s core objective and values. This principle is the reason for the continuing improvement in our total supply chain, aimed at using more sustainable processes and running the business operations in an eco-friendly ways, with a constant eye at energy conservation and waste reduction. We have been issued certification of ISO and Oeko-Tex for our clean and healthy production process. We also explore and use sustainable textile materials and products through an ecological design approach. ‘Green-Tech’ is Nan Yang’s brand of eco-friendly product line. Key information of Nan Yang Textile Group Year of establishment 1958 Location of headquarters Bangkok, Thailand Products range Yarn, fabric, apparel and decorative products Yearly capacity 4.2 million pounds of raw yarn, and 600,000 pounds of dyed yarn 18 million pieces of garment 30,000 tons of fabric Number of employees 14,000 ATA: The competition in Asia is getting fiercer and fiercer. What is your group’s development strategy? Mr Tuangsitthisombat: Our strategy is not to compete purely on price like some manufacturers in Southeast Asia. Instead our main focus is always creating and supplying innovative products and services for our customers. We have been focusing on product development, service development, and how to enhance our strength in a low cost environment. Also, it is important for us to have offices or representatives close to customers in the main countries that we have business with such as Hong Kong and the US. For manufacturing, we have factories in Thailand, China, Laos, and look forward to expanding to other potential countries. ■ (Continued from “China Report” p74) “We will actively guide local men’s clothing industry to transform from garment production base to garment brand center, and guide men’s clothing products to transform from low and medium grade to high grade. We intend to double the quantity of textile and garment enterprises, famous garment brands and sales amount within 3-5 years so that the title of ‘Famous Men’s Clothing Town of China’ will be satisfactory. ” Secretary-General Liao described the development blueprint of the industry so. The knitted mercerized cotton industry rises with one-third output of China Since 1990s, Huizhou has become one of three major cities of manufacturing the knitted mercerized cotton. At present, the industry cluster involved in raw material supply, technical research and development, production and sale of mercerized cotton has been established. The major enterprises include Mianwang (棉王), Daxiyang (大西洋), Chuangyi (創易), Dimeng (帝盟), Aosidi (奧斯迪), Kaiya (凱雅), Zhicai (織彩), Fengshang (風尚), Hongda (宏達) and Aomei (奧美) and obtain over 70% market share in Huizhou. By 2010, there were nearly 100 enterprises of manufacturing knitted mercerized cotton, which manufactured 15 million pieces of mercerized cotton clothing and 2,000t mercerized cotton cloth. The output value was RMB 1.5 billion, reaching nearly one-third output and sale of China. The products were mainly sold to Hong Kong, Europe and Middle East. Deng Xunwen (鄧勳文), Secretary-General of Mercerized Cotton Association of Huizhou (惠州市絲光棉協會秘書長), said that nearly 90% of the mercerized cotton garments of domestic and overseas famous brands were manufactured in the manner of OEM, including Septwolves (七匹狼), SEVEN (柒牌), Crocodile, Pierre Cardin (皮爾卡丹) and etc. “Huizhou is the first choice for high-quality OEM processing of mercerized cotton garments of China.” Deng added. But in early days Huizhou had no general production standard for knitted mercerized cotton, especially the unique indicator of mercerized cotton, “mercerizing effect”, is only judged subjectively. The Quality Supervision Bureau and Knitted Mercerized Cotton Chamber of Commerce of Huizhou City (惠州市質監局和市針織絲光棉商會) jointly prepared Knitted Mercerized Cotton T – Shirt (《針織絲光棉T恤衫》聯盟標準) in 2008 and clearly determined the testing method and standard. The other indicators were higher than the requirements of the national standard GB/T22849-2009 Knitted T – Shirts. For implementing this standard, Huizhou stablished the Quality Supervision and Testing Station of Guangdong Province for Mercerized Cotton Fabrics (廣東省絲光棉織品品質監督檢驗站). Obviously, the implementation of standard and establishment of comprehensive technological testing and service platform improves the overall quality of knitted mercerized cotton products of Huizhou, especially a firm foundation is laid for Huizhou to become the leading player in the knitted mercerized cotton industry. ■ Source: Huizhou Textile and Garment Association (惠州市紡織服裝協會) ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 91 - FAKT EXHIBITIONS PVT. LTD - IGATEX PAKISTAN 2012Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 92 - Company Bulletin Clariant opens new pigment preparations plant in Tianjin, China Switzerland-based chemicals supplier Clariant announced the inauguration of its new pigment preparations production facility in Dagang, Tianjin, China to support the growing Chinese market. Caption: Clariant’s new pigment preparations plant in Tianjin city, China The new plant in Dagang in the city of Tianjin is a joint-venture between Clariant and Tianjin Bohai Chemical Industry Company with a total investment of RMB120 million. Alongside the company’s existing powder pigment plant in Hangzhou, China, the Dagang plant is aimed at serving China’s growing pigment and pigment preparations market for high quality solutions. The new facility will produce pigment preparations in liquid and solid form for applications in the coating, plastics, and printing industries, as well as for consumer products and industrial special applications. It includes 16 production lines, warehouse, laboratories and office space in a surface area of 13,000sqm. The company said that its introduction of a further production site in China will give customers access to a wider choice of products as well as improved services with a shorter lead-time for greater efficiency. “Investing in emerging markets is a key element of Clariant’s strategy and underlines our focus on extending its value proposition to growing markets. For our Business Unit Pigments this investment enhances our customer intimacy in the region and strengthens our position in the Chinese market,” commented Christian Kohlpaintner, Clariant’s Member of the Executive Committee. The new plant in Dagang will be adding to Clariant’s pigment production capabilities worldwide with 12 pigment plants and 11 preparation plants across Europe, Asia and the US. Clariant remarked that it has invested RMB200 million in China in the past five years. DyStar joins Sustainable Apparel Coalition Textile dyes and chemicals supplier DyStar recently announced in a press release that it has joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), a collaborative venture established in 2011 by leading apparel retailers, suppliers and manufacturers with participation of academics and NGOs. The main objective of the SAC is to develop an Apparel Index which takes a full life-cycle view of an apparel product and identifies all major social and environmental impacts along the production chain, and dyes and chemicals are a key area of interest of the organization. Dystar emphasized that it has a long history of action to reduce the environmental impact of the supply chain, and recently issued its first corporate Sustainability Report prepared according to GRI principles. It also works closely with many of the brand and retailer members of the SAC in creating seasonal color palettes through its Color Solutions International business headquartered in North Carolina, the US, and in ensuring compliance of its products with Restricted Substance List requirements through its econfidence program. “Our membership of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition signifies our commitment to working together with our partners in the industry to deliver systemic change in the way that textiles are manufactured globally,” said Harry Dobrowolski, President of the DyStar Group. Huntsman and Ramatex form partnership to help Nike achieve zero-emission commitment Malaysian textile and garment maker Ramatex and textile chemicals supplier Huntsman Textile Effects have formed a strategic partnership to help international brand Nike meet its goal of zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. “We believe the solution to the issues already exists. Alternative chemistries are available, and Ramatex is determined to become the first supplier in the world to produce fabrics and garments which are fully compliant with the commitments in the roadmap,” says Ma Wong Ching, Chairman of Ramatex, which is among the first textile manufacturers publicly committed to rise to the challenge of eliminating the discharge of hazardous chemicals during the textile supply chain. He stated that the partnership will drive the initiative and create a template for others in the industry to follow. Eric Sprunk, Nike’s Vice President of Merchandise and Product said: “We are very excited with the strategic partnership between Ramatex and Huntsman Textile Effects. This kind of collaboration will allow Nike to begin to address some of the key challenges we face in implementing the Road to Zero goals. “Using this partnership as a template for others in our supply chain gives Nike a path to real, sustainable change within the footwear and apparel industry,” he said. Nike is among the six brands that have announced their commitment to the goal of eliminating the discharge of hazardous chemicals through the joint roadmap “Towards Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals” after the international environmental organization Greenpeace International released the “Dirty Laundry” reports, which stated that residues of hazardous chemicals nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) were found in apparels from international brands. Teijin partners with CCFA to boost China’s chemical fiber industry Japanese Teijin Ltd announced its partnership with the China Chemical Fibers Association (CCFA) to pursue business opportunities in the fields of chemical fibers and related industries in China. As introduced, the partnership, which ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 93 - ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITEDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 94 - Company Bulletin People Lectra names new software R&D director A French integrated technology solution supplier for industries using soft materials such as textiles, leather, industrial fabrics, and composite materials, Lectra recently announced the nomination of Laurent Alt as the new Director of its Software R&D department. Mr Alt, a graduate of the Ecole Normale Supérieure de Paris, began his career in 1987 at Thomson Digital Image where he created the first software for articulated characters and participated in the development of a 3D modeling package intended for industrial design. In 2009, he was CEO at HD3D, a company which develops digital content production management software, in partnership with French audiovisual leaders such as Mikros Image, Mac Guff Ligne, and Eclair Laboratoires. Caption: Laurent Alt Picanol announces the passing of Emmanuel Steverlynck Belgian textile weaving machinery maker Picanol announced that Emmanuel Steverlynck passed away on April 14 at the age of 89. Born in 1922, Mr Steverlynck was the second son of Charles Steverlynck (1888-1984), who founded Picanol in 1936. He took over the commercial management of the company and the sales of Picanol weaving machines in 1952. Under his leadership with the help of his father and his brother Bernard Steverlynck (1920-1976), the company overcame the difficulties of the early years and became one of the market leaders in textile weaving machinery. is the first time for the CCFA to partner with a foreign private company, will mainly pursue the opportunities to enhance Chinese fiber products with added-value, differentiation and greater production efficiency, develop high-performance fibers and related applications, and nurture unique businesses. It will also pursue the opportunities to develop green solutions for greater sustainability and establish a closed-loop recycling system. Teijin, which manufactures aramid fibers, carbon fibers and composites, polyester fibers, plastics, films, has reached an agreement to set up a closed-loop system for recycling polyester with Zhejiang Jiabao New Fiber Group Co Ltd. Based in Shaoxing, China’s Zhejiang province, Jiabao is a group company of Jinggong Holding Group, a prominent company involved with environmental management. “We are particularly pleased to pursue mutual growth opportunities with the CCFA and its member companies,” said Shigeo Ohyagi, President and CEO of Teijin. “We hope to apply our technologies and expertise toward solutions for energy savings and environmental preservation in the chemical fiber industry, a strategic industry in China’s 12th five-year plan,” he added. The CCFA is promoting industrial structural reforms targeted at realizing greater competitiveness through product differentiation and added value. It expresses its hope to achieve further advances in the Chinese chemical fiber industry through its new partnership with Teijin. “The collaboration between the CCFA and Teijin is a bold new initiative between the Chinese and Japanese chemical fiber industries, which have a long history of complementing each other’s strengths,” said Duan Xiaoping, Chairman of the CCFA. “I hope this strategic undertaking, which coincides with China’s 12th five-year period, will serve as a model for CCFA collaborations with other progressive global companies. Teijin offers advanced technology and valuable knowhow that are required in China’s chemical fiber industry. I believe our partnership with Teijin will pave the way for further cooperation between the chemical fiber industries of our two countries,” he added. Trützschler takes over Bastian Winder Technologies Trützschler group announced that it has taken over the product range of Bastian Winder Technologies GmbH & Co KG. “The name of Bastian represents outstanding quality and technology. In combination with the strength of the global Trützschler organization, we also offer the customer optimized service and individual consulting in new construction, as well as for retrofits and upgrades,” said Marc Wolpers, Managing Director of Trützschler in Egelsbach, Germany. Caption: Shigeo Ohyagi, President and CEO of Teijin Ltd (left), and Duan Xiaoping, CCFA’s chairman at the conference where they announce their partnership In the future, Trützschler will offer winders for film, nonwovens, paper and composites under the name of Bastian. The experts of Bastian can now evaluate exactly what is technically possible and economically convincing in combination with the expertise of Trützschler. “We are happy that the experienced Bastian employees continue to be available to our customers,” added Mr Wolpers. ■ For most updated news, please go to www.AdsaleATA.com ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 95 - ADSALE EXHIBITION SERVICES LTDAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 96 - New Products Guide Dow Corning’s new silicon-based emulsion for durable water repellency and softness The US-based provider of silicones and silicon-based technology, Dow Corning has launched DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard, a silicon-based technology emulsion to provide water repellency and softness without the use of fluorine, solvents or alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO). The new emulsion is said to provide excellent water repellency and to impart softness to most textile substrates, particularly cellulosic and blends. The company notes that the water repellency imparted is durable after 30 home laundry wash times, which is equal to that imparted by standard fluorocarbon water repellent finishing systems in the market. Joanna Giovanoli, Marketing Manager, Dow Corning Textiles, said: “With the help of Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard, brands are able to create apparel designed for wet weather. In contrast to current fluorocarbon technologies, silicon-based emulsions contain no fluorine, solvents or APEOs (alkylphenol ethoxylate). Silicones exhibit no adverse toxicological effects or evidence of bioaccumulation and have no effects on soil-living species or on crop growth.” Kornit Digital launches new Paradigm Printer Israel-headquartered solutions provider of industrial and commercial digital printing Kornit Digital has launched its new Paradigm Printer, a digital add-on solution for screen printing carousels that enables the screen printer to combine traditional screen printing methods with digital printing techniques and create innovative printing applications. Caption: Kornit’s new Paradigm Printer Sarel Ashkenazi, VP Marketing & Business Development of Kornit Digital, said, “The Paradigm is the only solution that combines the best of two worlds: Screen Printing and Digital printing, and it’s the best solution for garment decorators and screen printers that are looking to adapt into the growing needs of the fashion industry.” According to the company, the new printer is capable of handling a large variety of textile applications, variable data combinations, complicated four color processes, spot combinations and is equipped with Industrial High Volume Polaris Spectra print Heads. Kornit Paradigm can also act as a pure stand-alone digital printer for short-runs and eliminates the need for any set-up procedures with its automatic computer-to-printer process and its ability to reposition between carousel stations. Mr Ashkenazi said, “The Kornit’s Paradigm is compatible for both manual and automatic screen printing carousels and is capable of producing a variety of combined digital and screen application. Printers can now combine in one job Foil, Flock, Metallics and more, with photorealistic and multicolored digital image and use it as a digital printer for short-runs.” Teijin’s Nanofront polyester offers 400nm diameter Teijin Fibers Limited, the core company of the Teijin Group’s polyester fibers business, announced today that it has decided to commercialize a new version of its Nanofront high-strength polyester nanofiber with a diameter of 400 nanometers, or 22,500 times smaller than the cross-sectional area of a strand of hair, an allegedly unprecedented achievement for a commercial polyester fiber. The new version, which will be marketed by Teijin Fibers as a finer version of its existing 700-nanometer Nanofront nanofiber, will expand the market for the company’s versatile, high-performance nanofiber by meeting demands for even finer nanofibers in applications, such as high-performance air filters that trap especially fine dust particles while allowing increased air flow in compact, energy-efficient air conditioning systems. Nano-sized bumps on the surface of Nanofront raise frictional force and produce a surface area dozens of times greater than that of regular fiber, giving the material outstanding slip resistance. The ultra-fine fiber is also soft, stretchable, fits body contours comfortably, promotes cooling and boasts excellent absorbency and opaqueness. Nanofront is used in a wide variety of clothing and industrial applications, ranging from inner-wear, golf gloves and skin care products to abrasive cloth and filters. TenCate Geosynthetics launches woven geosynthetic TenCate Geosynthetics North America has developed TenCate Mirafi H2Ri, a patented, woven geosynthetic for soil stabilization and base course reinforcement applications when differential settlement occurs due to heaving in the subgrade soils. The woven geosynthetic is a wicking geosynthetic created from high-tenacity polypropylene filaments and patented wicking filaments formed into an innovative weave to provide superior reinforcement strength and soil interaction integrated with high soil retention and wicking capabilities. “The exciting aspect about TenCate Mirafi H2Ri is that it provides a geosynthetic solution in applications of subgrade heaving where traditionally geosynthetics have not performed well,” said Brett Odgers, Market Manager, Roadway Reinforcement at TenCate Geosynthetics North America. As introduced, TenCate Mirafi H2Ri woven geosynthetic contains special, proprietary hydrophilic and hygroscopic yarn that provides wicking action through the plane of the geosynthetic while maintaining higher tensile modulus properties than the current stabilization products. ■ For the most updated news, please go to www.AdsaleATA.com ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 97 - Reader’s Comments Some comments received from our readers on www.AdsaleATA.com “All information provided in your magazine is very useful for people like us as manufacturer.” ~ Md. Nurul Haque on article “Automation trend fuels development of knitting technology” (Feb 2012) “I find that your presentation of textile wastewater treatment is very useful” ~ Makesh on article “Wastewater treatment methods for textile mills” (Mar 2012) “This is useful information. Thanks to ATA team.” ~ Iqbal Ahmed on article “Can carbon replace steel, and natural fibers oust glass?” (Apr 2012) “Very useful!” ~ Amjad Ali Bhuiyan on article “Automation trend fuels development of knitting technology” (Apr 2012) “The update is very useful for us. Thanks!” ~ Amanda Wilson on article “New Oeko-Tex test criteria come into force” (May 2012) “That’s a very interesting story.” ~ Willy Ng on article “Sri Lankan apparel industry on upward movement, says UK official after visit” (May 2012) Share your thoughts about ATA Journal on www.AdsaleATA.com or by emailing us: cta.ata.edit@adsale.com.hk ■ (Continued from “Show Watcher” p84) free from such substances as APEO and phosphorous. In processing, we are constantly optimizing our products to accomplish our energy-saving and emission-reducing targets.” In the next 2-3 years, Pulcra expects to enter such sectors as nonwovens and coating. “We have production facility and R&D center in China. We wish to coordinate with our head office in Germany to launch innovative products.” Mr Chen hopes to see that more factories in China can develop their own brands. “Many processing enterprises are scrambling for even the low-profit orders. This is not good,” he explains. Caption: Chen Bangming, marketing manager of Pulcra Chemicals China Tanatex: diversified products for dyeing and finishing Tanatex upheld the concept of energy conservation, consumption reduction and environmental protection and provided more diversified and differential products at China Interdye. For example, cold pad-batch dyeing can save much steam, consume less energy and has higher color fixing rate and better dyeing repeatability compared with the traditional process. The low-temperature activated bleaching process is another example. The after-finishing products, such as probiotics finishing and skin-care functional finishing, also attract attention in the market. Uncertainty of the world economy affects the dyeing industry to some extent, while the requirements on resource saving and environmental protection bring remarkable challenges to the Chinese enterprises. “Now the dyeing industry needs more efforts on technical innovation, process optimization, energy conservation and emission reduction,” says Allen Lai, Deputy General Manager and Marketing Director, Asia Pacific of Tanatex. He says Tanatex is the only textile chemicals suppliers with the full systemic route from Cradle to Cradle (C2C). For further development, the company will cooperate with manufacturers and domestic brands in developing functional finishing products. ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 98 - See You at ShowsAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 99 - Coming Event Calendar Date Event Location Organizer Tel/ Fax/ Email/ Website 2011 Jun 12-16 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 Shanghai / China Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co., Ltd (44) 796 747 7305 / info@cematex.com / www.itmaasia.com / Jun 13-15 ANEX 2012 Seoul / Korea Asia Nonwoven Fabrics Association (ANFA) (82) 267 155 400 / enoch.jeong@ubm.com / www.anex2012.com Jun 26-28 IFAI Expo Asia 2012 Marina Bay Sands / Singapore Industrial Fabrics Association International (IFAI) (65) 6393 0227 / jasonng@mpinetwork.com / www.ifaiexpoasia.com Jun 26-28 The 13th China (Qingdao) Textile Machinery Exhibition 2012 Qingdao / China Qingdao Haiming International Exhibition Co., Ltd. (86) 532 850 11486 / fzjx@qdhaiming.com / www.qdhaiming.com Jul 3-6 Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring/ Summer 2013 Hong Kong / China Hong Kong Trade Development Council (852) 183 0668 / exhibitions@hktdc.org / www.hkfashionweeks.hktdc.com Aug 17-20 CTG-Cambodia International Machinery Industrial Fair Phnom Penh / Cambodia Chan Chao International Co., Ltd (886) 226 596 000 / overseas@chanchao.com.tw / http://www.camboexpo.com/ Aug 28-30 Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Shanghai / China Messe Frankfurt (Shanghai) Ltd (852) 2238 9938 / grace.lin@hongkong.messefrankfurt.com / www.messefrankfurt.com.hk Sept 6-9 2012 Guangzhou International Garment Festival and Guangzhou Fashion Week Guangzhou / China Guangzhou Yijia Exhibition Co., Ltd (86) 020 833 94270 / www.gzgigf.com Sept 14-16 2012 International Apparel Fabric Accessories & Yarns Fujian / China Guangzhou RHF Exhibition Co., Ltd (86) 20 3866 7261 / ruihongfair@163.com / www.cn-jit.com Sept 19-20 JIAM 2012 - Japan International Apparel Machinery Trade Show Osaka / Japan Japan Sewing Machinery Manufacturers Association (JASMA) (81 6) 661 21666 / jiam2012@fair.or.jp / www.jiam2012.com Oct 11-14 IGATEX Pakistan 2012 Lahore / Pakistan FAKT Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd (92) 213 581 063739 / info@fakt.com.pk / www.igatex.pk Oct 22-24 CINTE Techtextil China Shanghai / China Messe Frankfurt (Shanghai) Ltd (852) 223 899 38 / grace.lin@hongkong.messefrankfurt.com / www.messefrankfurt.com.hk Oct 22-25 Intertextile Shangahi Apparel Fabrics Shanghai / China Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd (852) 2238 9967 / wilmet.shea@hongkong.messefrankfurt.com / www.messefrankfurt.com.hk Nov 8-10 CANTON TEX - The 12th Canton International Textile Machinery Exhibition Guangzhou / China Guangdong Zhenwei Guozhan Exhibition Co., Ltd (86) 020-84120430 / fabric@zhenweiexpo.com / www.cantonfabric.com.cn Nov 21-24 2012 VTG Saigon-The 11th Vietnam Int’l Textile & Garment Exhibition Ho Chi Minh City / Vietnam Chan Chao International Co., Ltd (886) 226 596 000 / textile@chanchao.com.tw / www.vtgvietnam.com Nov 27-30 The 13th China (Yiwu) International Exhibition on Hosiery, Knitting, Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Yiwu / China Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd. (852) 2516 3354 / textile@adsale.com.hk / www.yiwutex.com Dec 2-7 India ITME 2012 - India International Textile Machinery Exhibition Mumbai / India The India International Textile Machinery Exhibitions Society (91) 222 202 0032 / itme@india-itme.com / www.india-itme.com * ATA Journal will be distributed at booth / media stand * These events are accurate to the best of our knowledge and are subject to change without prior notice. Event organizers are welcome to email information of their coming events to The Editor, ATA Journal cta.ata.edit@adsale.com.hk ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 100 - ADVERTISERS' INDEX Enquiry Advertiser Page 104 A. MONFORTS TEXTILMASCHINEN GMBH & CO. KG 5 118 ACIMIT SERVIZI SRL 35 138 ADSALE EXHIBITION SERVICES LTD 89, 95 113 ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITED 24 - 25, 73, 85, 93 105 AMANN ASIA LTD 7 108 BENNINGER AG 13 112 CLARIANT AG 23 122 COTTON INCORPORATED 43 133 DORNIER MACHINERY (SHANGHAI) CO., LTD 71 128 DOW CORNING CORPORATION - XIAMETER ® 59 139 FAKT EXHIBITIONS PVT. LTD - IGATEX PAKISTAN 2012 91 119 GETRIEBEBAU NORD GMBH & CO.KG 37 107 GROZ-BECKERT KG 11 106 H. STOLL GMBH & CO 9 141 HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS BACK COVER 103 KAR MING INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIES CO., LTD 2ND INSIDE FRONT COVER 114 KARL MAYER MASCHINENFABRIK GMBH 27 109 KERN-LIEBERS 15 130 KORNIT DIGITAL LTD 63 102 LOEPFE BROTHERS LTD INSIDE FRONT COVER 101 OERLIKON TEXTILE GMBH & CO.KG FRONT COVER 125 PREMIUM TEXTILE COMPONENTS GROUP 49 116 ROSINK GMBH & CO. MASCHINENFABRIK 31 124 SAN DA CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE 47 126 SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD 53 120 SSM SCHARER SCHWEITER METTLER AG 39 117 STAUBLI INTERNATIONAL AG 33 111 STORK PRINTS B.V. ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING 21 110 SWISSMEM 17, 19 132 TAI HO SHING KNITTING MACHINERY CO., LTD 67 131 TAINING MACHINE INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD 65 127 TESTEX SWISS TEXTILE-TESTING LTD 55 134 THE HONG KONG RESEARCH INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL (HKRITA) 75 121 THIES GMBH & CO.KG 41 123 THREE CIRCLES KNITTING NEEDLES INDUSTRY CO., LTD 45 115 TRUTZSCHLER GMBH + CO. KG TEXTILMASCHINENFABRIK 29 129 UCMTF - FRENCH ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS 61 140 VIGORS TEXTILE CHEMICAL (JIANGMEN) CO., LTD INSIDE BACK COVER 135 X-RITE ASIA PACIFIC LIMITED 79 136 YEONG GUAN HAUR INDUSTRIAL LTD 81 137 ZHEJIANG TRANSFAR CO., LTD 83 ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBookAdsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 101 - VIGORS TEXTILE CHEMICAL (JIANGMEN) CO., LTD Adsale eBook - ATA Jun 2012 - Page - 102 - HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS
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OERLIKON TEXTILE GMBH & CO.KG
LOEPFE BROTHERS LTD
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KAR MING INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIES CO., LTD
A. MONFORTS TEXTILMASCHINEN GMBH & CO. KG
JUN / JUL 2012 CONTENTS VOL. 23 NO. 3 ■ ISSN 1015-8138 Frontline 16 Recycling resources opens new door to sustainability and profitability In face of resources scarcity in the textile industry, recycling become an apparent way in solving the problem. Some companies treat the trend of recycling resources as an opportunity for further development 20 ITM 2012 Review ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 Preview 26 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012: Expanded despite challenging economic climate Market Focus 46 Sportswear: An industry in flux Sports brands are struggling to respond to many changing demands from both the market and their supply chains Material Technology 56 Nano Coatings add new dimensions to functional fabrics Environmental Watch 58 13 steps to obtain an eco-label 64 Sustainability gaining momentum with retailers’ awareness Chemical & Auxiliaries 66 Novel auxiliaries cut costs and increase productivity Nonwovens / Technical Textiles 68 Multi-disciplinary support boosts protective textiles Special Edition: Testing and QC Textile Technology Feature 50 Testing automatically, accurately and fast One of the biggest challenges faced by textile testing laboratories is the need for automated testing equipment that provides simple yet reliable testing in a high volume environment 51 Testing and quality control instruments suppliers China Report 70 “The next China” is still China 72 Men’s clothing industry of Huizhou: The road towards brand upgrade Retail Scene 76 Universal transformation: Spring/ Summer 2013 Corporate Profile 86 German technology to stay ahead in competitive market 88 Eco-awareness and innovation take priority Thailand-based company, Nan Yang Textile Group, runs its textile and garment business in an eco-friendly ways Other columns 8 Editor’s Note 10 Industry News 80 Show Watcher 92 Company Bulletin 96 New Products Guide 97 Reader’s Comments 99 Coming Events Calendar 100 Advertiser’s Index Cover Advertisement Enquiry code: 101 Oerlikon Textile Oerlikon Textile and its business units are the market leaders in virtually every technology area. With their innovations, they are continuously setting new standards for the global textile production. They provide comprehensive overall e-save solutions in the sector of textile machinery and plant manufacture: From the plant design for the production of man-made and nonwoven fibres up to facilities for ring spinning, rotor spinning, winding, twisting or embroidery, they cover the entire value added chain in the textile sector. Website: www.e-save.oerlikontextile.com Register now! AdsaleATA.com/members Free subscriptionof “Weekly eNewsletter” and members’ benefits AdsaleATA.com/eBook eBook of all issues are available With over 100 reporters & contributors’ support
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JUN / JUL 2012 Editor’s Note The biennial event of ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 will be held during June 12 to 16 in Shanghai. Despite the global economic uncertainties, the show owners have reported a 30% growth in exhibition space to 132,000 sqm at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC). The owner of the show comments that the increased demand is beyond expectations. It also indicated the resilience of the textile industry. More than 1,230 exhibitors from 27 countries and regions will gather at this exhibition in China once again, bringing with them the textile technologies that cater for potential customers in Asia, especially in China, Bangladesh, India, Russia, Vietnam, Pakistan and Indonesia. The textile industries in these countries continue to transform, leading to new demands for advanced machinery and technology. We have included in this issue some of the exhibits for your preview. Besides, two more exhibitions which were held recently have presented to the industry the latest textile technologies in machinery and chemicals, which ATA Journal has also reported on. They are ITM 2012 in Istanbul, and the China Interdye 2012 in Shanghai. Turkey has been regarded as the last frontier of textile manufacturing in the western world, according to Clement Woon, the new CEO of Oerlikon Textile. The vibrant market is also the bridge between Europe and Asia to promote business relations between the two continents, making ITM 2012 one of the important textile shows this year. Exhibits seen at China Interdye 2012 cover various advanced eco-friendly dye, organic pigments and intermediates. Some 500 exhibitors had presented their cutting-edge products. About 83% of them are producers of dyestuffs and organic pigment, and the rest are suppliers of auxiliary and printing equipment. “Textile Technology Feature” focuses on “testing and quality control”, according to the US-based testing equipment supplier Q-Lab, one of the biggest challenges faced by textile testing laboratories is the need for automated testing equipment that provides simple yet reliable testing in a high volume environment. Textile industry people also reported a rise in demand for functionality tests in China, and fast growth of testing services in other Asian countries, such as Vietnam and Indonesia. “Market Focus” looks at how sports brands are struggling to respond to the changing demands. As reported by our correspondent, a number of major trends are currently influencing the global sports and fitness clothing market, the most immediate being the increasing pressure for more sustainable and less wasteful manufacturing and sourcing. ATA JOURNAL for Asia on Textile & Apparel is published by Adsale Publishing Limited (a member of the Adsale Group) Address: 6th Floor, 321 Java Road, North Point, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2811 8897 Fax: (852) 2516 5119 Email: cta.ata@adsale.com.hk Web-site(Adsale Group): www.adsale.com.hk Adsale Textile Website: www.AdsaleATA.com General Manager: Annie Chu Senior Executive Editor: Naomi Lee Editor: Kelvin Yau China Editor: Joany Hao AdsaleATA.com Senior Editor: Wong Hok Tak Editorial Emails cta.ata.edit@adsale.com.hk cta.ata@sz.adsale.com.hk Contributors Adrian Wilson (Europe) Ajay Sinha (South Asia) Asep Setiaharja (S E Asia) Baari Inggi (S E Asia) Gail Taylor (Hong Kong) Ian Holme (Europe) Lucia Carpio (Europe) Manik Mehta (US & Europe) Ngo Tuan (Vietnam) Sanjay Gupta (India) Seshadri Ramkumar (US) Sunil Kumar Puri (India) Marketing and Advertising Janet Tong email: ata@adsale.com.hk Advertising Sales Offices See page 100 Production Sonia Lai Circulation Circulation Department Publication Frequency 6 times in 2012 Distribution ATA JOURNAL is distributed free to individuals who meet the publisher’s registered terms of control. Fill in the reader’s form to apply for qualified readership. Subscription Rates (annual incl postage) Hong Kong: HK$455 Asia (surface mail): US$75 All Other Regions (surface mail): US$85 Cover Price: HK$76 / US$13 / US$15 Copyright © 2012 All rights reserved. Reproduction in any form without the written permission of the publisher is prohibited. The publisher is not responsible for statements or opinions expressed herein nor do such statements necessarily express the views of the publisher unless stated as such. Printing Elite Printing (Hong Kong) Co., Ltd. Address: Room 1401-8 14/F Hong Man Ind Centre, 2 Hong Man St, Chai Wan, HK
H. STOLL GMBH & CO
Industry News Southeast Asia China Chinese textile and garment exports reach US$50 billion in the first three months Chinese Customs statistics reveal that in the first three months of this year, China’s foreign trade amounted to US$859.37 billion, representing a year-on-year growth of 7.3%. Of this sum, the country’s exports totaled US$430.02 billion, up by 7.6% from a year ago, while its imports reached US$429.35 billion, up by 6.9% year on year, and this contributed to a cumulative trade surplus of US$670 million. By product, China’s exports in textile and garments reached US$50.1 billion, up by 2.9% year on year. Of this sum, US$29.57 billion was from garment export, and US$20.44 billion from textile exports, representing increases of 3.9% and 1.4% respectively as compared with the same period of last year. In March alone, its garment exports reached US$10.29 billion, up by 18.7% year on year and by 88.8% from the previous month. Meanwhile, its textile exports were valued at US$8.5 billion, a 7.6% growth compared with March 2011 and a significant 99.5% increase compared with the previous month. Vietnam Vinatex announces profit target of US$117 million by 2015 The Vietnam National Textile and Apparel Group (Vinatex) recently announced its ambitious net profit target of US$117 million (VND 2,434.3 billion) by 2015 according to its plan for development in 2011-2015 period, which has been approved by Vietname’s Prime Minister in early April. To obtain such target, the Vinatex will execute a number of projects, including new and expansion ones towards improving its production capacity, bolstering share in the domestic market, developing a sustainable trend as well as intergrating into regional economy. In addition, the company will be equitized by 2012 to attract more investment capital, and expand its area of cotton plantation up to 50,000 hectares by 2015. Texhong to build US$300 million spinning complex in Vietnam The Quang Ninh province in northern Vietnam recently granted an investment license to Texhong Ngan Long Limited Company, a subsidiary of the Hong Kong-headquartered Texhong Textile Group, for building a spinning complex with the investment of about US$300 million. Located in the Hai Yen Industrial Zone, Mong Cai city, the complex will be equipped with advanced technology, and is expected to have annual yarn capacity of 140,000 tons and to recruit about 6,800 workers. The project will be divided into three phases. The capacity of phase one is around 54,000 tons/year, that of phase two 37,800 tons/year and that of phase three in excess of 46,000 tons/year. The construction of phase one is planned to start in late 2012, and the whole complex is expected to be in operation in October 2017. According to Li Ke Dong, CEO of Texhong Ngan Long, 80% of its products will be for exports, including 60% to China and 20% to the EU, and most of its cotton used for the complex will be imported from the US and India. Texhong Textile Group is currently operating a large textile plant in Nhon Trach Industrial Zone, Dong Nai province in southeastern Vietnam. FLA to help enhance CSR in Vietnamese textile and garment industry The US-based Fair Labor Association (FLA) has signed a two-year deal with the Vietnam Chamber of Commerce and Industry (VCCI) for a project on enhancing management of corporate social responsibility (CSR) in the key industries of Vietnam, including textile, garment and footwear industries. The project, which is funded by US Department of State, will support 50 textile, garment and footwear plants located in six Vietnamese cities and provinces, namely namely Hanoi, Thai Binh, Hai Duong, Dong Nai, Long An and Binh Duong. Besdies the FLA and the VCCI, some other govermental offices and social organizations would involve in the project execution, including the Ministry of Labour, Invalids and Social Affairs (MOLISA) and Vietnam General Confederation. The project is expected to help improve Vietnamese labor’s working conditions, better promote the workers’ rights, and promote sustainability. It will help experts to study the results and offer professional advice to central and local policy-making agencies. Garment workers strike for pay rise On April 13, hundreds of garment workers of Dai Minh Limited Company, a garment manufacturer for exports located in Hoa Cam Industrial Park, Da Nang city, went on a strike to request for raising their minimum wage. According to the workers, their minimum wage is too low and their payment per produced product is reduced from VND 7,000 (about US$0.33) per product to VND 5,000 (about US$0.23) per product. Besides, they said that the salary payment is always late, and they usually have to work over time. The local government of the Da Nang city requested the company to raise their minimum wage and improve the working conditions. Thailand Thailand aims to be ASEAN’s textile and garment design and trade center The Thailand Textile Institute (THTI) has set the development plan of 2012-16 for the ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
GROZ-BECKERT KG
Industry News Thai textile and garment industry. The plan requires the industry to develop in a way that favors the environment by adopting green production modes, introducing advanced technology, and enhancing labor’s skills, in order to minimize pollution, comply with Europe’s eco-labels and reduce production costs. The development plan aims to transform Thailand into the textile and garment design center and trade center in the ASEAN region, boost the growth rate of the Thai textile and garment industry to 8%, and raise its exports to US$2.4 billion. In 2011, Thailand’s textile and garment exports totaled US$8.26 billion, representing a year-on-year increase of 7.5%. Of this sum, its exports to the ASEAN market reached US$1.55 billion, up by 13.5%, while its exports to the EU and the US were valued at US$1.45 billion (+2.3%) and US$1.4 billion (+7.8%) respectively. Thailand’s exports to Japan amounted to US$728 million, up by 36.6%, while it exported US$460 million worth of textiles and garments to China, up by 17.7%. Indonesia Indonesia’s draft decree setting out standards for babies’ and children’s clothing The Indonesian Ministry of Industry has published a draft decree that states that all fabrics used in the production of clothing for babies and children aged less than 36 months, imported or Indonesian produced, must comply with the Indonesian National Standard (abbreviated SNI) requirements, and such products will require a Product Certificate with the SNI Mark, which must be present on all babies’ and children’s clothing, according to information of Swiss testing and certification company SGS for the media. Children’s and babies’ clothing products distributed in Indonesia that originate domestically or are imported must meet the requirements in SNI 7617:2010. These requirements are designed to increase the overall quality of clothing produced while providing consumers with rigorous safety protections and establishing fair trade in competition. The Product Certification Body (LSPro) tasked with issuing an SNI product certificate will be appointed by the Indonesian Ministry of Industry, and accredited by the National Accreditation Body of Indonesia (KAN). To be accredited to certify, an LSPro will need to demonstrate that there has been comprehensive testing of the conformity of a products quality against SNI requirements and implementation of the Quality Management System (QMS) SNI ISO 9001-2008 or other recognized quality management system by way of an audit. Product testing in accordance with SNI 7617:2010 can only be undertaken by laboratories with the capacity to test for azo dyes and formaldehyde content in fabric used for babies’ and children’s clothing, according to SGS, and the SNI requirements state that no toxic azo dyes can be present in fabrics used for the manufacture of clothing classified for either babies or children up to 36 months. Besides, formaldehyde levels cannot be higher than 20mg per kg for fabrics used to produce children’s clothing up to 36 months and 75 mg per kg for fabrics used in clothing for children aged over 36 months. Further to this, SNI marking requirements necessitate that the information for babies’ and children’s clothing must contain the name of the brand, the type and composition of fiber used, the country of origin and the designation as either a babies’ or children’s garment. Testing laboratories based overseas will require accreditation that is recognized by an APLAC / ILAC agreement between KAN and that respective country’s accreditation body, adds the Swiss company. Additionally the Indonesian government must have bilateral or multilateral agreements in the field of technical regulations with that particular laboratory’s government. Auditing of the implementation of a QMS is based on the Institute of Quality Certification’s guidelines toward guaranteeing quality, accredited either by KAN or an overseas exporting territory’s accreditation body, which has signed a Mutual Recognition Arrangement with KAN, says SGS. South Asia India India disallows additional cotton exports Indian Textile and Commerce Minister Anand Sharma announced on April 9 that India will not permit additional cotton exports. Mr Sharma was quoted by saying that “until further orders, there will not be any fresh registrations”, after a review meeting by a panel of government officials on the issue of cotton export from India. Vidarbha Janandolan Samiti (VJAS), a group representing Indian cotton farmers, has reacted strongly against India’s recent decision. Its President Kishore Tiwari said that Indian domestic demand is just about 20 million bales (170kg each), while the national production is 33 million bales (170kg each). He demanded that export restrictions should be removed. India’s textile ministry plans to build strategic cotton reserve As the Reserve Bank of India (RBI) is not keen on making efforts to bail the Indian textile industry out of its debts, the Textile Ministry of the country is proposing the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) to buy 2.5 million bales of cotton at an appropriate time to create a strategic reserve of cotton for exclusive sales to mills. The proposal will be sent to the Finance Ministry for a detailed discussion and necessary approval, sources said. The reserve will ensure raw material supplies to mills and help stabilize prices in times of shortage, said a senior textile industry executive of India. Domestic cotton prices flared up to a record Rs 70,000 a candy, of 356kg each, in 2010-11 ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Industry News on a global shortage before easing to Rs 35,000 per candy now. Several Indian textile mills have been under serious debts owing to a sudden fall in product prices after two successive years of rise in raw material costs. Demand started to decrease suddenly from last April as an approaching economic slowdown later aggravated into a sustained crisis in the EU and the US, which together account for around 65% of India’s textile exports. India, the world’s second-largest cotton producer, needs to have a long-term policy on maintaining reserves if it wants to face Chinese competition in textile exports, said the executive. China, despite being the world’s largest cotton producer, does not allow exports of the raw material to keep supplies for its textile mills steady. It also holds the world’s biggest cotton reserve and offloads stocks periodically to control raw material prices in the local market. “The strategic reserve is a very good concept, but the quantity is low. Mills consume more than 2 million bales of cotton a month, so at least 6 million bales of cotton should be kept in the reserve to make any significant impact on the market in the form of price stabilization. Moreover, it should be a dynamic reserve, which will intervene appropriately looking at the market realities,” said DK Nair, Secretary General of the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry. The market is slowly picking up, but most textile units do not have adequate working capital to manufacture products and cater for growing demand, Mr Nair said. Lack of electricity supplies in Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh has just exacerbated the problem, he added. In November last year, India’s Commerce and Textile Minister Anand Sharma sought a moratorium for two years from July 1, 2011, on the repayment of the principal amounts by the capital-intensive textile units, which account for 90% of the industry’s loans, and a one-year moratorium for other textile segments. The textile ministry also suggested a 2% interest subsidy to the garments as well as knitwear sectors. However the central bank does not seem too keen about it. Indian budget promotes technical textiles sector India’s budget for 2012-13 recently presented by the Finance Minister Pranab Mukherjee will have beneficial effects on the country’s technical textiles sector. To encourage local small- and medium-sized enterprises to venture into value-added textiles and technical textiles, a venture capital scheme of Rs5,000 crore (about US$1 billion) has been set up under the name of India Opportunities Venture Fund. The geotextiles sector gets a boost with an investment of Rs500 crore (US$100 million), and this plan will focus on the northeastern region of the country, while the hygiene sector benefits from the reduction of the basic custom duties on the materials for manufacture of adult diapers to 5% with 6% Countervailing Duty (CVD). Besides, special CVD has been withdrawn. While aramid yarns and fabrics are exempt from basic custom duties, automatic shuttleless looms, which are used for the production of technical fabrics, are exempt from the 5% basic customs duty. Pakistan Pakistan’s textile machinery imports drop by 58% Owing to Pakistan’s sharp decrease in textile exports and production capacity, caused by the bad law and order situation in the country and worsened by a deep energy crisis, textile machinery imports to Pakistan slumped by 58% in March, compared with the same month of last year. “Manufacturers have started exporting the existing functioning machinery to Bangladesh because Pakistan has growing issues of energy shortfall and routine violence in Karachi,” said former Chairman of the Pakistan Hosiery Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PHMA), Saleem Parekh. He questioned how the manufacturing units in Karachi and Punjab could expand their size when everyday violence and worst electricity and gas (Continued on p87) AD: BENNINGER AG ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Industry News Association News Maintaining the technological leadership In view of the problem of piracy, the solution is continuous R&D to maintain the technological leadership of German machinery suppliers For the time being, the Euro debt crisis is still under the spotlight, and is said to have hit European countries really hard. Germany, however, is less affected compared with other countries of the Euro-zone in general, and still has a strong economy, says the Germany-based VDMA Textile Machinery Association. But it stresses that so far a happy ending of this sovereign debt crisis in Europe is not in sight, and it is still unclear whether and how the European banking system will be affected. “Until now, the crisis had no severe consequences for our member companies as our industry predominantly exports its products outside the Euro-zone,” says Thomas Waldmann, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Machinery Association. There were no significant changes in German textile machinery makers’ export markets in the past year compared with 2010, according to the association. “China, Turkey, India, the US and Brazil are still our top five markets despite occasional changes within this ranking. Our general exports in 2011 increased by 23% to 3.3 billion euros year-on-year. The exports to China crossed the one-billion-line for the first time to reach 1.17 billion euros. “It is also worth mentioning that the Turkish market performed very well last year. Our exports to the market increased by more than 50% to reach nearly 300 million euros. After some weak years, the Turkish textile sector is definitely back on track. VDMA Textile Machinery Association will organize the next conference on production technology for technical textiles in Turkey,” notes Mr Waldmann, adding that “the markets performed well so far, and we expect the stable business to continue.” Textile Machinery Association Germany Textile Machinery Exports in 2011 (in milllion euros) Spinning Machinery 1,369 +36.0% Weaving Machinery 207 +3.2% Knitting and Hosiery Machinery 1,004 +19.8% Finishing Machinery, including Washing, Bieaching and Dyeing 730 +13.4% Caption: German textile machinery exports in 2011 Continuous efforts on R&D Product piracy and increased competition from China have presented challenges for German textile machinery makers, according to the German association. “VDMA member companies’ answer to these challenges is continuous high expenditures in R&D, because preserving the technological leadership is the key to success. And these efforts for technological development and highest quality are appreciated by the market: Textile producers in Asia and elsewhere relying on German technology know that the competitive advantages of German textile machinery become evident, if one takes a look in a machine’s product life cycle and the accumulating costs,” says Mr Waldmann. He adds that besides the costs for acquisition, installation and start-up, there are many expense factors to examine: Costs for maintenance, service and repair - but also for energy and operating, production waste and so on. “Due to low maintenance charges, reliability in production as well as energy efficiency the initial investment for a German textile machine pays off after a few years.” Caption: Thomas Waldmann, Managing Director, VDMA Textile Machinery Association VDMA and its member companies will showcase sustainable and innovative solutions and success stories at the forthcoming ITMA ASIA 2012 in Shanghai. “German technology significantly contributes to increase the energy and material efficiency in the production process. It is evident that textile production processes must be as efficient and environmentally-friendly as possible. For this reason the German manufacturers of textile machinery have committed themselves to the VDMA Blue Competence sustainability initiative,” stresses Mr Waldmann. Currently, many textile manufacturers in different countries outside Europe and the US are interested in producing higher value-added products, e.g. in the area of technical textiles, and so the functional innovative products must fulfill highest requirements in terms of quality and reliability, according to him. “That is what German technology stands for: high quality starts with the right spinning preparation technology, and goes on to the production line of the fabric and its finishing process.” ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
KERN-LIEBERS
Frontline Recycling resources opens new door to sustainability and profitability by Staff Reporters Considering the scarcity of resources which presents a challenge to the textile industry, it has become apparent that recycling resources is a right answer. Some textile machinery makers, such as Benninger and Laroche, have introduced technology that can help manufacturers recycle their resources, some companies see the trend of recycling resources as opportunity for further growth. ATA Journal presents some latest resources-recycling technology, recycled raw materials, as well as how companies adopt recycling resources as a business strategy. Advanced resources-recycling technology According to Swiss supplier of textile finishing and cord production ranges Benninger, the new option for recycling resources can be opened up by recycling waste water using filtration techniques. Modern chemical- and temperature-resistant ceramic membranes are increasing the availability of these techniques in the textile industry, and the company has been active in this area since 2008. It notes that the recycling rate of up to 90% of the accumulated quantity of waste water does more than just help the environmental balance. The purified waste water can be used in all areas of textile production. Although membrane filtration systems are electrically operated, the overall energy balance and therefore the carbon footprint is reduced by around 12%. Under certain circumstances it is now already possible to run waste water free textile operations (so-called ‘zero discharge’). On the other hand, Laroche, French supplier of equipment for processing fibers, and technologies for recycling and nonwovens, notes that in the textile industry, each operation of the complete cycle, from fiber preparation to garment making, generates substantial amounts of waste. Seeing the pressing need to resolve the rampant environmental problems and the shortage of raw materials, French Laroche has been dedicated to R&D of the textile waste recycling technology, and has achieved great progresses. The company has recently introduced its JUMBO tearing lines with improved throughput and special devices for the recycling of postconsumer clothing and carpet waste. It has also launched the new “FLEXILOFT plus” Airlay technology with improved web uniformity and weight range which can run all types of fibers such as synthetics, natural, and recycled, and blends of fibers and solid particles such as foam chips, plastics, and wood chips, allowing manufacturers to make smart products from renewable resources and from wastes that are otherwise discarded. Caption: Laroche JUMBO tearing lines The French company notes that their application fields include nonwoven products for building insulation, automotive, bedding, furniture and floor coverings, geotextiles, sound and thermal insulation, horticultural, open-end using recycled fibers, natural fibers products (nonwovens and yarns), short staple bast fibers for spinning, nonwoven and paper, disposable products, pillows and toys stuffing, and technical products. Turning waste into a new raw material To recycle everyday waste to become a new raw material is how companies were inspired to produce PET recycled fibers. Taiwanese Libolon is a PET recycled fiber supplier. Its RePET is a new recycled yarn textile manufactured from used PET bottles. The company has developed the latest recycling technology to reuse waste, avoiding the environmental burden from discarding them in landfills. The recycling technology does not utilize virgin PTA (terephthalic acid), which is made from petroleum as its main raw material, reducing energy and carbon emissions and lowering the use of petrochemical materials. According to the Taiwanese company, its recycling process includes collection of post-consumer bottles from subcontractors; removal of bottle caps and labels; bottle crushing; material washing; sifting; and drying. The end product is white flakes, provided as raw materials for re-polymerization. During the fabric manufacturing process, the dyeing engineering stage involves the highest degree of energy consumption and waste creation. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
SWISSMEM
Frontline Utilizing the advantages of a vertically integrated manufacturing system, Libolon has developed a new process whereby various specific pigments are injected into the polymers during the spinning process to create various colored polyester yarn, called Ecoya. The Ecoya series of eco-friendly products was designed based on reducing energy use, greenhouse gases emissions, and water and chemical consumption by eliminating the dyeing process. By omitting the dyeing process, discharged water waste can be significantly decreased, reducing the overall environmental load. Across the globe, in the mid 2000s, the US-based company Unifi developed Repreve, a 100% recycled polyester product that is said to perform as well as virgin fibers. Over the years, Repreve has evolved from a single product into a family of recycled fibers. To improve the availability of recycled raw materials and significantly increase the company’s product capabilities, Unifi will invest in backward integration of the Repreve supply chain. In addition to providing greater control over the production of the recycled chip that is used to make Repreve polyester fibers, the new recycling technology will provide opportunities for the company to recycle post-consumer and post-industrial fabric waste back into Repreve. Resources recycling as a business strategy A number of companies are taking a forward step to make resources recycling as a part of their business strategies. Japanese Teijin Group, for instance, recently announced that the first program in China for collecting and recycling used uniform was launched in collaboration with Shandong Asahi Green Source Hi-Tech Farm Co Ltd and Shandong Asahi Green Source Milk Products Co Ltd, both subsidiaries of Asahi Group Holdings. The uniform will be recycled using Teijin’s Eco Circle, an environmentally friendly closed-loop system incorporating its technology for the chemical recycling of polyester introduced in 2002. As part of the program, Teijin Fibers’ chemically recyclable polyester fiber is woven into textiles and dyed by Nantong Teijin Co Ltd, a Teijin Group company in Nantong on the east coast of China. This month, high-warmth uniforms made with the recyclable textile were distributed to some 200 employees of the two companies based in Shandong Province, also on the east coast, which produce and sell vegetables, fruits and milk. Caption: A Shandong Asahi’s staffer wearing a uniform produced by Teijin Group made with recyclable textile As explained, uniforms will be collected after their useful lives and sent to Teijin Fibers’ Matsuyama plant in Japan. After chemical decomposition, they will be converted into polyester raw materials offering purity comparable to polyester derived directly from petroleum. The raw materials will then be turned into high-quality polyester for the manufacture of new recyclable products. Repeated recycling achieved with the Eco Circle system is said to significantly reduce both energy consumption and carbon dioxide emissions compared with conventional petroleum-based processes for polyester production. Teijin said that it is working with more than 150 apparel and sportswear manufacturers worldwide to develop and manufacture products made from recyclable materials, as well as to collect and recycle these products at the end of their useful lives. The manufacturers include well-known brands such as Patagonia, Henri Lloyd and Quiksilver. In China, Teijin has been collaborating with Li Ning since 2009. “We are pleased to collaborate with Asahi Group Holdings’ two Shandong Asahi Green Source subsidiaries under a mutual commitment to sustainability through recycling,” commented Hirotaka Nakagawa, President of Nantong Teijin. “With environmental consciousness steadily rising in China, Teijin is witnessing a growing interest in its Eco Circle programme.” Meanwhile, recycling raw materials during manufacturing are without doubt the key drivers for new automotive fabric developments right now. Ford, for example, is now using recycled cotton, such as post-consumer denim jeans, in the interior of its 2012 focus as part of carpet backing and sound absorption material. Carrie Majeske, the auto group’s Product Sustainability Manager said: “One of our key goals is to use more recycled or renewable materials without compromising performance or durability. Recycled content is a way to divert waste from landfills and reduce the impact of using virgin material.” Ford’s “reduce, reuse and recycle” commitment is part of the company’s broader global sustainability strategy to reduce its environmental footprint while at the same time accelerating the development of advanced, fuel-efficient vehicle technologies around the world. Over the past few years, Ford has concentrated on increasing the use of non-metal recycled and bio-based materials, including soy foam seat cushions, recycled resins for under-body systems, recycled yarns on seat covers and natural fiber plastic for interior components. The company says its vehicles continue to become more eco-friendly through the creative use of renewable and recycled materials. “The good news is these jeans did not end up in a landfill, nor did we use the water, fertilizer and land to grow virgin cotton,” said Majeske. The amount of post-consumer cotton from blue jeans used in a vehicle amounts to around two pairs of average-sized American jeans, based on a kilogram of cotton used per meter of denim and the meters of denim used to make a pair of jeans. “Great fuel economy is our first priority for reducing the vehicle’s impact on the environment,” said Majeske. “As we deliver that, we seek to use materials inside a vehicle that reduce the environmental impact as well.” ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
SWISSMEM
Frontline ITM 2012 Review Bridging any cultural gaps Europe’s last frontier for textile manufacturing is opening up new market opportunities for all, reports Adrian Wilson from ITM 2012 in Istanbul As Clement Woon, who became the new CEO of Oerlikon Textile in January this year, remarked Turkey is the last frontier of textile manufacturing in the Western World. It is also very much the bridge between Europe and Asia, and as such, well poised to promote worthwhile business relations between the two. Speaking at his new company’s ITM 2012 textile machinery show press conference in Istanbul, Mr Woon added that the Turkish market is currently very vibrant and has been helped by producing a lot of its own cotton. “In general, the textile industry was significantly impacted by the instability of cotton prices during 2011, but in the last few months this has stabilized,” he said. Mr Woon’s appointment reflects the general shift of Oerlikon’s top management to Asia recently – ultimately reflecting the demographic of today’s textile industry in general. Caption: Oerlikon Textile’s management team at ITM (left to right) Clement Woon, Gerard Küsters and Daniel Lippuner WINGS for PA6 At ITM 2012, Oerlikon Barmag introduced its new WINGS POY (partially oriented yarn) filament winder for polyamide six (PA 6). This, said Stefan Kross, Head of Oerlikon Manmade Fibres, has the same advantages as the system introduced last year for PET, with speeds of up to 4,500 metres per minute possible. So far, Oerlikon has also sold some 2,000 positions of its WINGS FDY (fully drawn yarn) units, filling the order book for this new machine until 2012. In respect of spinning, Gerard Küsters of Oerlikon’s Textile Spinning business, added that more than 150 Autocoro 8 rotor spinning machines have also already been sold since they were launched last year. For its components business, Daniel Lippuner remarked that Oerlikon opened its first-ever regional store in Istanbul during 2009 and was launching around 15 new products this year. Corlu expertise A number of Turkey’s own machinery builders, meanwhile, are now looking to give the established technology brands a run for their money. The Çorlu region of Turkey, about an hour’s drive from Istanbul, is home to around 1,000 textile manufacturers, all of whom are comparatively young, having emerged in the past 30 years or so, primarily to exploit opportunities in the domestic and West European markets, and to avoid the infrastructural and high cost implications of being based in Istabul itself. With such a big cluster base of customers – and it’s not the only one in Turkey – local machine builders have had plenty to keep them busy over the past few decades. Now, however, they are increasingly looking beyond the local markets, and with an emphasis on high quality, too. HAS Group It was to Çorlu during the ITM show (which took place from April 21-24) that a delegation of international journalists was taken to visit the plants of the HAS Group, and also to see its machines in operation at the mill of a customer. Founded in 1987, HAS not only builds its own textile machinery, but its subsidiary MT is one of the leading metal processors, so these really are in-house and built-from-scratch systems, with no sub-supplying or contracting out. In addition, HAS has now established a very successful worldwide service network, so unsurprisingly, its sales are increasingly becoming international. Fittingly, HAS had one of the biggest stands at ITM 2012, where it introduced its latest RAM-X2 fabric stenter. Caption: HAS Group’s RAM-X2 stenter on display in Istanbul ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
STORK PRINTS B.V. ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING
Frontline ITM 2012 Review The key to the RAM-X2’s design has been in building on the experience gained with users of the first RAM-X machine – many of these virtually on the doorstep in Corlu – to improve the increasing machine consumption costs customers now face as the price of energy continues to rise. “We don’t make standard machines at all,” said Ayca Hasbay, Managing Director of the MT operations, “but tailor-made models, working hand in hand with our customers. She added that the company was now manufacturing around 140 machines per year, with a turnover of €17.5 million achieved in 2011 on target to hit €20 million this year. “At HAS Group, our target is to improve the image of Turkish machine manufacturers,” added HAS area sales manager Metin Zorlu. “To achieve this we need to do two things – provide high quality machines and ensure they keep operational. For these reasons we pay keen attention to domestic and foreign service networks and make serious investments. We are improving the image of Turkish machine manufacturing and invite others to do the same.” Energy consumption Turkish textile manufacturers have a clear advantage in respect of energy consumption and CO₂emissions, according to Jürgen Ströhle of Swiss finishing machinery manufacturer Benninger. While in Europe, gas and light oil are the primary energy sources, he said, in Asia coal is usually preferred. CO₂emissions from natural gas, however, are only around 50% of those produced when coal is used. In Turkey it is common to use gas for heating steam boilers and thermal oil boilers. In respect of secondary energy sources – particularly electricity – Turkey is one of those leading the field. Caption: Benninger promoted the eco-benefits of its Trikoflex system for Turkish knitwear producers Countries with heavy CO₂emissions are those in which electricity is generated from coal-fired thermal power stations. According to national statistics from the Turkish Electricity Transmission for 2011, approximately 40% of electricity is generated from gas-fired thermal power stations, more than 30% from hydro-electric power stations and no less than 3% from wind power stations. This means that in respect of CO₂emissions per kWh of electricity, Turkey is one of those countries leading the field worldwide. “CO₂emissions are caused directly by the energy consumption and indirectly by the consumables such as chemicals, lubricants etc.,” said Mr Ströhle. “The distribution of CO₂ emissions in a fully continuous textile finishing process for cotton textiles shows that about 50% comes from drying, 40% from washing and steaming and 10% from the use of chemicals.” In knitwear finishing using the exhaust process, the largest part of emissions – 60% – is caused by heating the water. Continuous processing In the 1990s, manufacturers in Turkey already realised that the consumption of resources could be drastically reduced by using continuous finishing processes for woven fabrics. This step – which is associated with considerable investment – has made Turkey one of the leading textile processing countries worldwide. There was, however, some reluctance in implementing this step among Turkish knitwear producers. The current energy situation though, provides a strong impetus for doing so, Benninger believes. “A number of different approaches are possible, both for knitwear and for woven fabrics and it’s important to take the entire value-creation chain into account,” said Mr Ströhle. “This starts with the selection of the fibre material. As a result of the progressive worldwide scarcity of agricultural land and the fluctuation in cotton prices, regenerated synthetic fibres such as viscose and Tencel have recently gained significant market share and also impressed with their ecological footprint. In fully integrated fibre factories, it is already possible to produce CO₂-neutral synthetic fibres. “When it comes to spinning the yarn, OE or airjet spinning processes are preferable to ring spinning from the point of view of energy consumption.” As a textile production process, knitting is also more favorable than weaving, while there is no significant difference in the further processing of these different textiles. “As far as the ecological footprint of dyeing factories and finishing works is concerned, knitwear from regenerated synthetic fibres has significant advantages from an environmental point of view,” Mr Ströhle said. “Modern machinery, however, is a prerequisite. Most Turkish dyeing works are familiar with viscose/elastane single jersey fabrics made from OE yarn. These articles do not require the classic pre-treatment that is needed for cotton since they don’t need to be bleached. All that’s needed is a low tension pre-wash for the removal of spinning oil.” The continuous pre-treatment concept used by Benninger involves an impregnation, emulsification and wash process on the company’s Trikoflex drum wash compartments. During the emulsifying phase, the chemically-saturated knitwear is placed in loops onto a dwelling system. The micro-movement of the individual loops ensures that the knits are continually loosened and promotes free relaxation, at the same time preventing the formation of creases. Hydroshrinkage As a result, the bi-directional shrinkage of the material is greatly improved. “It is well-known that so-called ‘hydroshrinkage’ is significantly ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Frontline ITM 2012 Review stronger and longer lasting than thermal shrinkage, e.g. using hot air,” said Mr Ströhle. “Whether with or without a subsequent thermal fixing process, the stretch and elastic recovery of the material is retained, even following several household wash cycles and wear and the fit of the garments is retained.” Another advantage of the prewash process is that the emission of silicone and mineral knitting oils during the fixing process of unwashed knitwear is avoided. The black smoke in the exhaust air from the stenter frame is a thing of the past. The Benninger plant concept is based on modules and is available for a daily production of up to 25 tonnes per day. The ‘all in one’ module for a production of 2-4 daily tonnes per day is available at a reasonable price, the company says. Digital surprise At ITM 2012 – coming as it did, so soon after the European ITMA in Barcelona last September – there were few real technology surprises. One, however, was Italian-Austrian company Durst’s rapid succcess with its Kappa 180 digital printing system. First introduced at last year’s ITMA in Barcelona, this machine is not only characterised by impressive performance – the QuadroZ printhead with its 6,144 jets per colour produces a resolution of up to 1,680 dpi – but also its ecological performance. Caption: Durst’s Kappa 180 has rapidly gained acceptance with Turkish textile printers With this system, water consumption can be reduced by up to 90% compared with conventional printing methods and only a fraction of the chemicals are also required. The production of printing screens becomes much less expensive and they are immediately reproducible through the elimination of the pre-printing processes. With Durst’s Costview software, the printer’s precise production costs can be calculated for each order, including ink, material, power and CO₂emissions for each production stage. On the very first day of the ITM show, Durst announced that it had secured three new orders from Turkish companies. Kral, Turbo Textile and Akteks will all be taking delivery of the Kappa 180 system in the coming months. There were many such new success stories being trumpeted at ITM – as the hub show for the Middle East region. The show was organized by Teknik Fuarcılık, Yayıncılık ve Reklamcılık Tic Ltd Şti and TÜYAP Tüm Fuarcılık Yapım AŞ, and supported by the Textile Machinery and Accessories Manufacturers Association (TEMSAD). ■ AD: CLARIANT AG ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com
ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITED
ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITED
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012: Expanded despite challenging economic climate by Staff Reporters Despite current challenges in the economic climate, owners of the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012, which will be held during June 12-16, say that they have booked additional exhibition space at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre (SNIEC) to meet exhibitors’ demand. Stephen Combes, President of the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX), comments: "Response to this year’s combined show is beyond our expectations. The strong demand for space attests to the effectiveness and popularity of the combined show as well as the resilience of the textile and textile machinery industry. “We already had a long waitlist for space by the deadline for applications, and therefore made the decision to book the remaining space available in the venue to enable us to accommodate around 80 companies on our waitlist.” With the additional 6,000sq m of exhibition space, the show will now gross over 132,000sq m, 30% larger than the previous event in 2010, and more than 1,230 exhibitors from 27 countries and regions will take part, according to the owners. Wang Shutian, President of the China Textile Machinery Association (CTMA), said, “Interest in the combined show remains extremely strong, especially from Chinese textile machinery manufacturers. As China’s textile industry continues to transform, the demand for advanced machinery and technology is on the rise. This is also reflected in the current uptrend in textile machinery trade.” China Customs statistics reveal that China’s textile machinery foreign trade registered a year-on-year growth of 25.6% to reach US$7.6 billion in 2011. Of this sum, exports amounted to US$2.25 billion while imports totaled US$5.36 billion. Caption: A snapshot of the previous edition of ITMA ASIA + CITME To boost visitors’ participation, overseas promotional activities on ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 were previously held in Bangladesh, India and Russia. Besides, visits to Vietnam, Pakistan and Indonesia have also been scheduled. In China, an intensive roadshow covering Fujian, Guangdong, Henan and Shandong provinces is also underway. Associations’ active participation At the ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 exhibition, a total of eight French textile machinery and components makers will present their products. According to Bruno Ameline, President of the French Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association (UCMTF), French machinery manufacturers are offering less standard machines but more tailor-made solutions designed with their customers and partners. “These solutions enable customers to introduce new products with high added value, and compete successfully in their own national market, and in the open world,” he noted. At the fair, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association of Germany will present the sustainability initiative Blue Competence in the Asia market. VDMA has developed the initiative Blue Competence for the whole range of its machinery industry. Blue Competence explains and positions the machinery manufacturers as the technical problem-solvers regarding the requirements of saving energy, material and resources. In the framework of Blue Competence initiative, the VDMA member companies will showcase their energy-efficient solutions at the exhibition. The VDMA energy efficiency guide “Conserving resources – securing savings-potential” will also be distributed in Chinese language at the fair. In this guide, the determining factors for a comparing assessment of the energy efficiency of textile machinery have been worked out. The guide aims to help put the discussion about energy efficiency on a solid basis. ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 is organized by the Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co Ltd, and co-organized by MP International Pte Ltd. It is owned by the CEMATEX, the Sub-Council of Textile Industry of The China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT TEX), the CTMA, and the China International Exhibition Center Group Corp (CIEC). ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
KARL MAYER MASCHINENFABRIK GMBH
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Highlights from exhibitors Biancalani E1 C30 Italian BIANCALANI srl will present at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 its new machines for finishing of woven and knitted fabrics. The company will demonstrate a portion of the AIRO24, continuous tumble dryer in open width for woven and knitted fabrics, a vast selection of fabrics samples that demonstrate new finishing effects and the versatility of the Biancalani machines. Caption: Biancalani’s AIRO24 It also notes that it’s been a year since the company Biancalani and his agent in China, Santex Shanghai Textile Machinery Company Ltd have cooperated, which has reached good results in the interest of the Chinese customers. Bräcker W2 C01 Swiss Bräcker will present high quality components for ring spinning machines, such as BERKOL supergrinder and TRITON Spinning-Rings. The new BERKOL supergrinder is a totally re-engineered concept, based on experience with the BERKOL BGS machines and incorporating the latest electronics technology, as well as adapting to the latest requirements of today’s spinning technology. The company says that its grinding capacity is over 350 top rollers / hour, up by 50%. With user-friendly touch-screen panel, its storage capacity is up to 450 top rollers with 32 mm diameter and it can achieve 10% of electricity consumption. It will also present its TRITON Spinning-Rings for wet flax spinning. The TRITON surface coating combines abrasion and chemical wear resistance. TRITON rings are specially designed for the wet spinning of flax fibers over the full yarn count range.The TRITON coating features advantages such as smooth and even surface properties, long traveller life and excellent yarn quality, high wear resistance against abrasion, and favourable price / performance ratio. Caption: Bräcker’s BERKOL supergrinder grinding machine Bräcker will also exhibit its accessories such as ORBIT spinning rings and the relevant travellers, PYRIT and ZIRKON travellers for especially demanding applications, as well as cost-saving tools such as the Bräcker RAPID for easy and time saving insertion of travellers, and BERKOL-Cots and Aprons. Brückner E2 G05 German machinery and line producer Brückner will present its innovations at the fair, with highlights on energy efficiency, intelligent textiles and technical applications. Its nonwovens lines portfolio comprises among other things flat and vertical dryers, Airlaid lines und high-temperature ovens for the finishing of geo-textiles, wipes, filter media, automotives and much more. The company will present the benefits of the new double belt thermofusion oven for the finishing of voluminous and highly-compacted non-wovens. The line works very effectively and with minimum energy consumption. State-of-the-art technology and advanced control systems as well as a robust construction with long service life are self-evident. Caption: Brückner’s nonwovens bonding oven In coatings, the company supplies finishing and coating lines for very different applications and end products, for example airbags, light protection material, tarpaulin, grinding cloth, artificial leather, canvas and sport clothing. Whether screen or slop-pad coater, powder dispersion unit or full bath impregnating, floating knife or roll over cylinder coating machine, it has a tailor-made solution for customer. The company highlights that its lines are working with the utmost energy efficiency and with the highest possible precision regarding temperature distribution, air circulation and coating application. With its newly developed systems, users can save up to 35 % of energy depending on the process and the machine configuration, says the company. Heat-recovery systems for example pay back already from the first day and are a good investment for the future. At the fair, the company will present its latest system. With its new ECO-HEAT heat-recovery, users will benefit with highly efficient plate fin heat-exchangers with anti-adhesion coating of their optimum power density. Dornier E3 F01 German textile machinery maker Lindauer Dornier GmbH will present its weaving machines. The rapier weaving machine P1 PTS 4/S C, nominal width 220 cm, with a heavy filter fabric for the technical sector, and the air-jet weaving machine A1 AWS 8/S G also with nominal width 220 cm for demanding wool weavers in the clothing sector. The company’s new, pioneering and patented drive concept SyncroDrive is one of the significant components of the new Dornier system family of rapier and air-jet weaving machines. The significance of Dornier weave-by-wire will certainly be very clear on this Jacquard machine. An electric control circuit to the separate drive of the Jacquard machine replaces the cardan connection between weaving and Jacquard machines. Realization of dynamic ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
TRÜTZSCHLER GMBH + CO. KG TEXTILMASCHINENFABRIK
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Caption: Dornier’s P1 PTS 4/S C rapier weaving machine, nominal width 220 cm close of shed adjustment while the machine is running meeting the demands from sophisticated weavers will be shown. The company notes that system family of rapier and air-jet weaving machines offers any solution required for the production of technical textiles as well as top quality clothing fabrics. The low-strain weft insertion makes it possible to insert extremely sensitive filling threads that are taken up contactless and without guiding elements, passed on and held securely by the positively controlled rapier head until interlacing in the open shed. With both weaving machines a high or low warp density may be set up thus enabling its customers to weave fabrics with very high densities like for example aramide or conveyer belt fabrics as well as fabrics with very low densities like for example open weave or composite fabrics. Erhardt+Leimer E3 G01 German web guiding specialist Erhardt+Leimer will present at the fair the new cutting system ELCUT BTA 80, which fully meets the requirements of knitted fabric manufacturers: Substantially reduced cutting waste, minimum maintenance, long life, and easy retrofitting of old cutting devices. There are three versions of ELCUT BTA 80: The basic version is supplied with an actuator allowing exact manual positioning via two push buttons. The second basic version includes a sensor with a captive range of +/- 3 mm. When the web width changes the sensor has to be positioned manually once, then the system automatically follows the web edge. Caption: Erhardt + Leimer ELCUT BTA 80 The premium version is supplied with a wide band sensor that has a captive range of +/- 75 mm. When the web width changes the new position of the web edge is fixed at the push of a button. Due to its wide captive range the web is always in the field view of the sensor. The company notes that the ELCUT BTA 80 system convinces through continuous concentration on customer demands, minimum maintenance effort, and high value for money. This makes the new system the ultimate solution for optimum edge trim. Fong’s W1 C1 Hong Kong-based Fong’s Group will present its continuous and discontinuous finishing machines under its brands Fong’s, Goller, Then, Xorella, Mortforts Fongs, and Fong’s Water Technology. It will present its Fong’s TEC series High Temperature Dyeing Machine, the state-of-the-art design that can meet the requirements for the ecological and environmental protection and increasing cost of energy in the global textile market. It is suitable for different dyeing process with various types of natural, synthetic, blended fibers. It will also display its latest version of the legendary THEN-AIRFLOW, the SYNERGY 500 G2, suitable for all kind of fibers (except pure wool), making it the perfect high temperature choice for every dye house. The machine with the lowest liquor ratio in the market satisfies the highest demands in terms of efficiency and ecology due to the patented AIRFLOW- technology. Caption: Fong’s MIDITEC (250kg/tube) high temperature dyeing machine with FC30 color multi-function controller In addition, it will present Goller’s new UNIVERSA conveyor dwelling compartment. In this new UNIVERSA, the conveyor belt is made of stainless steel in design which will bring a more stable condition in the transport of fabric. According to the process requirements, the dwelling time of fabric inside the UNIVERSA can be set in the process management system Goller Multidata. The UNIVERSA is connected to the filter device which can effectively filtrate the impurities and fluffs come out from the fabrics. Most worth mentioning is that the UNIVERSA has a flexible high and low liquid level adjustment device. So fabric spray washing can be used in low liquid level, but also in high liquid level for dipping washing. The company will also showcase XORELLA XO-Series energy saving vacuum conditioning and heat setting machine. The new XO-Series uses key components with uncompromised quality and excellent engineering in both performance and reliability to help the users to save the energy consumption by 15%-25%. Graf & Cie AG W2 C 01 Swiss supplier of premium components for key processes in the short staple spinning industry and nonwoven applications, Graf will present its Hipro metallic wire and resist-O-top generation of flexible flat clothing. As introduced, Hipro metallic card clothings ensure top performance and precision together with an exceptionally long working life. Hipro metallic card clothings are suitable for all standard man-made fibers in the nonwoven sector and also for wool. They can be used on the following rollers: doffer, worker, stripper and condenser rollers. These excellent, robust clothings are available with normal profile and as interlinked clothings. Caption: Graf’s Hipro metallic wire ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Besides, the resist-O-top generation of flexible flat clothings for processing of cotton, man-made, and regenerated fibers as well as for blends and swing applications is another of Graf’s innovations with a noticeable impact in the market. The resist-O-top setting pattern favors the extraction of short fibers and trash as well as the elimination of neps. This flat series is progressively set without straight gaps between the rows of teeth. Groz-Beckert E5 H01 German supplier of industrial machine needles, precision components, and systems for the production and joining of textile surfaces in various sectors, Groz-Beckert will be presenting its comprehensive range for different textile production and joining methods. Caption: Groz-Beckert CylinderMaster In the knitting sector, it will be presenting an entirely new knitting technology featuring the finest knitting cylinders in the world, as well as the finest precision components. These products enable textile production in the ultra-fine gauge E90. The spotlight will also be on the Groz-Beckert CylinderMaster, which enables especially simple, reliable and safe cylinder changeovers on single jersey circular knitting machines. In the weaving-machine components sector, Groz-Beckert will be presenting diverse healds, drop wires and high-performance heald frames. In weaving preparation, the focus will be on the fully-automatic drawing-in machine WarpMaster. The KnotMaster increases efficiency during the knotting of especially fine cotton warp. EcoStar – the new universal felting needle for extreme requirements – is a true highlight in the Nonwovens sector. As the first result of a far-reaching innovation initiative, in comparison with conventional needles it offers users longer service life combined with reduced energy consumption. Jetstrips for hydroentangled products, with process-water analysis included, are another major focus in Shanghai. In the Sewing sector, Groz-Beckert will be presenting its market-tailored sewing and joining service to industry experts. New potential in the processing of fine materials in the chainstitching sector will be delivered by the needle system UY 128 in LPC geometry (Loop Position Control). Habasit W2 F12 & E3 G10 Headquartered in Switzerland, Habasit is a producer of conveyor belts, processing belts and power transmission belts. The company will present its power transmission belts and printing blankets, among others. Its tangential belts are designed to cut power consumption to a minimum. It notes that its polyester power transmission belts, such as the TC-20/25EF and the new TC Quantum leap types (TCxxQ), deliver high performance yarn processing while consuming 4% to 6% less power compared with conventional polyamide products. Depending on local energy costs, this means annual savings of US$1 for each spindle, which in turn provides savings of up to USD 100,000 a year for a spinning mill with 100,000 spindles. Plus excellent yarn quality and maximum machine output. Easy to join and install, Habasit’s printing blankets provide outstanding repeat accuracy, perfect printing quality, a Caption: Habasit’s power transmission belt AD: ROSINK GMBH & CO. MASCHINENFABRIK ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW long service life, and high reliability. The ENU-20EXBD and ENU-20ELBD models have a polyester (PET) traction layer, with a choice of thicknesses and textures on the reverse side. The ENU-20ELBD, for example, has a low-noise fabric for use where there is a need to reduce the noise level on high-speed machines. The ENU-20ELBI compressible printing blanket allows high quality printing results on fabrics of average quality, thanks to its innovative belt concept. J Teck E2 H06 Italian producer of water-based digital inks for sublimation and direct-to-textile printing J-Teck will showcase a new direct-to-textile line based on the innovative Cluster Technology. Cluster Technology is a system through which the ink molecules are consolidated into clusters so that to pass through the piezo print heads without alteration. This gives extreme stability to the ink allowing an easy adaptation to any type of digital printers even the most sophisticated ones. In the direct-to-textile version, J-Next ink can also be used together with E.P.S. a patented system by J-Teck allowing for double-sided printing through digital technology. With the combination of these two systems, Cluster Technology and E.P.S., it will be possible to achieve a uniform colour penetration with bright and vibrant colours on the reverse side of the printed fabrics in applications where this feature is necessary such as fashion items, banners and flags. J-Teck will also display its complete production range of Ape-free disperse inks, manufactured with selected raw materials and production processes with low environmental impact. Jakob Müller E3 A10 Swiss technology provider for the manufacture of woven and knitted tapes and webbing, woven ropes, woven labels and technical textiles, printed narrow fabrics, dyeing, make-up and winding machinery, Jakob Müller AG will present a number of machines. Caption: NH2M narrow fabric needle loom for MultiSphere products Among its exhibits is MÜGRIP MBJ6 rapier loom. MÜGRIP rapier looms are exclusively developed and manufactured for label weaving. Shedding takes place via an SPE Jacquard machine with 1,536 hooks and the machine on display at ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 has 1,152 Jacquard functions. The MBJ6 is available in 4, 6, 8 and 12 weft colour versions. The universal rapier newly developed for this machine generation permits the successful use of an even greater range of yarn qualities beginning from 20 dtex. Furthermore, the new cutting elements stand for uniform label selvedge quality across the entire weaving section. All the label designs manufactured on MBJ models can be exchanged reciprocally and are 100 per cent reproducible. The new machine also employs an innovative, energy-optimised drive concept, which cuts power losses to a minimum and provides a 20 % improvement in the label weaving energy balance. It will also present its NH2M 53 electronically controlled rope weaving machine. To date, ropes have been manufactured exclusively on braiding machines. However, using MultiSphere technology ropes, with or without cores, as well as twine and cord, etc. can now be woven on both the NC2M and the electronically controlled NH2M narrow fabric needle loom. These machines are designed for a variety of rope diameters and differ from their conventional counterparts with regard to reed, fabric guide and take-off design. Sheath and core thread insertion takes place via a compensation device, which also supports the formation of a three-dimensional structure. As opposed to standard rope braiding systems, the new process stands out due to the following advantages: higher productivity; longer, knot-free items due to the extended yarn lengths available on the bobbins/warp beams as compared to braiding bobbins; and far lower production and manufacturing costs. James Heal W3 E21 The UK-based James Heal will present its latest technological innovations in textile testing. Among its exhibits is its TruBurst3 fully pneumatic bursting and 3D fatigue tester. Its inherent flexibility gives it the capacity to test a broad range of materials including textiles, nonwovens, paper, board, plastics and medical products. The non-contact laser distension measurement gives accurate results, while the adjustable clamping pressure and automatic diaphragm correction prevents any slippage or specimen damage and improves precision. TruBurst3 has intuitive cyclic software which means that both experienced and inexperienced users can operate this testing instrument with ease. It will also present its new Titan4 universal strength tester, which is designed to test textiles, nonwovens and leather in various forms. This compact desktop strength tester operates in both compression and tension and comes with a range of tool-free interchangeable specimen grips. Caption: James Heal’s TruBurst3 fully pneumatic bursting and 3D fatigue tester It is available with a choice of load cells, up to 3000N, which are supplied in cartridge form to improve protection and facilitate safe handling and storage. It has all the safety features you would expect from a universal strength tester, such as soft close grips, but is packed with intuitive features that are design to make testing simple. The company will also display its Martindale 909 nine station abrasion tester and its Elmatear2 digital tear tester, which has been extensively redesigned with a wide range of new features which offer increased value, accuracy and safety. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
STÄUBLI INTERNATIONAL AG
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Jenhaur E6-E14 Taiwanese Jen-Haur specializes in producing parts and peripheral equipment for circular knitting machinery. The company will present some of its peripheral equipment for circular knitting machinery, such as its color-changing yarn feeders. As introduced, its newly developed JPF-J88-T23-H2A-CW color-changing yarn feeder can simultaneously feed several yarns with different colors and types. It features two separate yarn feeding arms which can mutually assist in equal tension control in the incoming and outgoing operation in different tension, speed and yarn feeding. The strong tension can be diverted and reduced to the amount needed for mild operation status, while breakage of yarn can be highly reduced in feeding, and smooth yarn feeding can be realized even in irregular tension status. Caption: Jenhaur’s JPF-J88 Auto-color Changing Feeder The company will also present its another color-changing yarn feeder JPF-J88-T23-CCW-DUAL, which can also simultaneously feed several yarns with different colors and types, and can reach the equal tension control at the point where different tension, speed and yarn feeding in the incoming and outgoing operation are being handled. Karl Mayer E5 B10 Karl Mayer will be exhibiting as one of the main technical pioneers and economically successful manufacturers in the field of warp knitting machines and warp preparation machines. Caption: Karl Mayer’s Jacquardtronic Lace JL 40/1F Jacquardtronic-Raschel machine Two high-speed warp knitting machines and two lace machines with new performance features in terms of efficiency and flexibility will impress them in particular. A Wefttronic with a new performance will also be demonstrating its capabilities for producing technical textiles. This raschel machine with parallel weft insertion has a working width of 213” and complements the widths of 268”, 176” and 138” that have been available until now. For the warp preparation sector, the company will be showing its new fast, versatile Nov-O-Matic 2 with Isotens creel. This automatic sectional warping machine is setting new standards in quality and productivity for producing long production warps as well as for processing batches with short running lengths. Kern-Liebers E5 A01 German Kern-Lieber Textiles will present its components at the fair. The acquisition of Saxonia Textile Parts GmbH, the Bavarian needle plate manufacturer Paul Leistner GmbH and Sächsische Nadel- und Platinenfabriken GmbH laid the foundation for subsequent steep growth Kern-Liebers Textiles, a development complemented by the acquisition of the German needle manufacturer Haase and Kühn. Caption: Kern Liebers components In addition to needles, German Kern-Liebers Textiles also offers a complete range of components for knitting and warp knitting machines. We also offer a range of products for tentering frames and combing machines. The complete Kern-Liebers range of products includes more than 55,000 needles and sinkers. The increasing number of end consumers in the knitwear and warp sector also underpins its strong market position. Kornit Digital E1 C22 Among the exhibits of Israeli digital printing solutions provider Kornit Digital at the exhibition is its Kornit Allegro roll-to-roll printer According to Kornit, the Allegro roll-to-roll printer is bringing its experience and pigment inks from the garment printing industry to the fabric industry and will lead a new revolution in textile printing. It offers print speeds of up to 280m2/hr and a print resolution of 500x500dpi, allowing the market’s fastest yet highest quality prints, the company claims. Caption: Kornit Allegro roll-to-roll printer In addition, the Allegro is equipped with Kornit’s built-in pre-treatment system PreT, which enables printing without the need for manual pre-treatment of any kind by applying a fixation agent automatically on press, immediately prior to the print process. As the company introduces, this odorless fixation agent binds inks to fabric at the same time as the printing, eliminating altogether the need for pre-treatment or steaming systems. Also, the PreT system has the ability to print on untreated fabrics, which saves time and costs associated with printing. Lacom W3 A02 At the fair, Lacom will present its Multi-Purpose Machine, which has two different application systems integrated. These systems are suitable for lamination and coating only. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
ACIMIT SERVIZI SRL
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW The machine is also available as “DUPLEX” for triplex lamination. The machine is capable to laminate all kinds of woven – and knitted fabric (circular and single jersey), warp knit fabric, all sorts of foam like PU -ester -ether and aliphatic foams, all kinds of films like PTFE, PU, PET, PE and others, non-woven, spun bond / high loft, glass fiber fabrics, Kevlar / Aramid, all synthetic fabrics, fabrics from natural and animal fibers, and Velcro with Velour, and for lightweight fabric and tension sensitive material such as Spandex. All thermoplastic adhesives known in the market today can be handled. EVA, PP, PO, Co PET, Co PA, PE, TPU can be used and also the 2 existing reactive adhesives PUR (Polyurethane) and POR (Polyolefin). And its application weights can be adjusted between 3 gsm to 300 gsm (or more). The full range of technical textiles can be produced with just one machine system, and the company manufactures machines from 1.8 to 3.5 m width. It notes that because of environmental aspects, the hotmelt technology is of increasing importance, and this technology is in fact the most economical way, to improve a textile product in its quality and performance. Loepfe W2 G20 Loepfe Brothers will showcase at the fair its online quality control system YarnMaster Zenit with the new, optimized triboelectric P2 sensor, which further improves the system's precision in yarn clearing by optimized measuring algorithms and very fast signal processing. Caption: Loepfe YarnMaster Zenit with PC sensor Based on the optical and triboelectric measuring methods, the YarnMaster Zenit yarn clearer is very flexible with respect to yarn types and materials and covers the complete yarn count range with only one sensing head. Even fancy yarns are cleared efficiently using simple clearer settings. Thanks to optimized yarn path of the Zenit sensing head, there are very few abrasive effects on the yarn even when the winding speed is high. The 7-segment display built into the sensing head informs already at the spindle of the occurrences. Loepfe has upgraded the original P sensor to the P2 sensor with the latest technology in order to ensure the efficient clearing of cotton yarns and blendings. The Swiss company emphasized that the new P2 sensor, which provides controlled, reliable clearing of synthetic foreign matters, brings a number of benefits to textile producers, including better quality of end products and thus better prices; lower raw material waste; better utilization of resources; as well as an increase in efficiency of downstream processes and accompanying cost savings. Mahlo E1 B12 “Saving Costs – Conserving Resources” is the motto of Mahlo GmbH & Co. KG. It will present innovations from measuring and control technology for the worldwide textile industry as well as for the coating, plastics and paper sector. Caption: Mahlo’s ORTHOPAC XRVMC-12 The company will present the new ATMOSET SMT-12, a dynamic cylinder dryer control system, which already experiences a major demand because of its high savings potential. Up to 15% of energy can be saved through product-specific dryer control. Sums in the 5 to 6 digit range can be saved through the reduced energy consumption in the energy-intensive drying process. Sustained savings can also be realized with the enhanced modules and sensors of the OPTIPAC VMC-12 process control. The ECOMAT AML module minimizes energy consumption up to 16% alone through optimized exhaust air control. The dwell and heatsetting time can be optimized fully automatically with the PERMASET VMT module. This means optimal utilization of the stenter capacity at a lower energy requirement per meter of product produced. Amongst others, a demonstration system with circulating product web will be presented. Here you can view the new straightening concept ORTHOPAC XRVMC-12 at its best. As the first and only straightening system it offers the advantageous combination of simultaneous feedforward and feedback control of the straightening process. The multiple straightening units, selectable independently from each other, guarantee optimal monitoring with even faster and more precise straightening results. “Right first time production” thus comes within close reach and contributes to lowered costs. On the reverse side of the demo model you will find the ORTHOPAC RVMC-12, the classic model of the straightening- and process control system. For the coating and converting sector, Mahlo presents the modular and traversing process control system QUALISCAN QMS-12. It measures and controls various parameters over the entire fabric width: • Basis weight: beta radiation, X-ray and infrared sensors • Humidity: infrared and microwave sensors • Material thickness: single and double-sided laser systems The QUALISCAN QMS-12 is customized to the needs of various coating applications. The modular design offers interesting options for expansion. On display is the measuring frame WEBPRO M, which can be equipped with up to 3 sensors. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Memminger-IRO E5 G01 Supplier of processing technology for yarn feeding, control systems and lubrication technology for knitting machines, MEMMINGER-IRO is the market leader. The German company will showcase knitting machine controller NAVIGATOR and lubricator PJ LF. The NAVIGATOR is a modular system incorporates to run a large diameter knitting machine. According to customer demand MEMMINGER-IRO can supply only the controller and distribution board as the minimum configuration as well as the complete set which incorporates additionally all cables, push buttons, inverter, power unit and other parts. Caption: Memminger-IRO’s NAVIGATOR The main features include quick installation through “plug and play”; user friendly menu; integrated connection of several MEMMINGER-IRO products e.g. lubricator, fabric scanner, yarn consumption control unit, motor drive belt system and others. Besides, PJ LF is the latest development of the well-know UNIWAVE spray lubricators. Due to a brand new technology the air consumption of this new PJ LF is 30-50% lower than existing spray oilers on the market. This leads to a tremendous reduction of maintenance cost. Special nozzles reduce oil fog in the knitting room to a minimum. The focus is lead on easy handling combined with integrating many function control devices such as pressure relief valve and float switch. Monforts E1 B01 German textile finishing machinery maker Monforts will exhibit its MXL (moist cross linking) process in association with the new Thermex 8000 continuous dyeing machine. Caption: Monforts Thermex 8000 continuous dyeing machine The MXL process, developed by Ciba Speciality Chemicals together with Monforts, allows non-iron and laundry-fresh properties to be achieved on cotton materials with the shortest treatment times. It also ensures processing times to be reduced from more than 20 hours to just three minutes, while offering greater flexibility and high process safety than conventional systems. Monforts says that it will be an international debut for the Thermex 8000 continuous dyeing machine in the MXL mode of operation. And the machine is manufactured in stainless steel to withstand the process acidity. During the fair, Monforts will also demonstrate the latest software in process control technology to ensure economic and ecological solutions. Besides, references for technical textile applications will also be displayed. AD: GETRIEBEBAU NORD GMBH & CO.KG ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Novibra Boskovice s.r.o. W2 C 01 German Novibra is the leader in spindle technology and the only 100% in-house spindle maker. In 1988, the revolutionary HPS design changed the classical ring spinning and opened new prospects for spinning in speed up to 25 000 RPM. Till now this design maintains unbeatable position and becomes synonym for high speed spindle design. The high performance of spindles on modern automated ring frames requires state of the art clamping device for an effective and reliable doffing. Caption: Novibra’s spindles The new Novibra clamping crown CROCOdoff uses centrifugal effect for opening and closing at defined spindle speed. Reliable clamping and yarn cutting brings considerable advantages, to the spinners, during doffing. NSC Fibre To Yarn W3 E11 French company “NSC Fibre To Yarn” which includes N.Schlumberger, Sant Andrea Novara, Seydel, and Cognetex brands, will showcase the latest technological advancement in its product range. A new stretch breaker, evolution of its ERA comber, improvements on the GC30 family drawing machines will be particularly unveiled to its international customers. Caption: NSC Fibre To Yarn stretch breaker For NSC fibre to yarn division, the fair will be also the occasion of presenting significant evolutions as performances of production, quality standards, operating and maintenance costs, instant control and diagnosis, and cost energy savings. The company notes that all these advanced have been made possible because of its reliable concept of construction, to electronic controls implying a user-friendly man-machine dialogue and an increased productivity. Oerlikon W2 H01 & W2 F02 Under the theme “Innovation has a name”, Swiss supplier of textile machinery Oerlikon Textile will present its broad product portfolio in the manmade fiber, natural fiber and textile components business at the fair. Five leading brands will exhibit the following products under the umbrella of Oerlikon Textile on the show. Oerlikon Barmag Oerlikon Barmag will be presenting innovative solutions focusing on increasing productivity, saving energy and ergonomics. Initially, the main spotlight will be on WINGS for FDY yarns – with the first production systems being commissioned in the first quarter of 2012. The trade show’s exhibits will also include the corresponding spinning pumps for the FDY process with WINGS. Caption: Oerlikon Schlafhorst Autocoro 8 A further information focus in Shanghai will be on the carbon fibers sector, with exhibits including the WinTrax carbon fiber winder from the German textile machine builder’s Chemnitz-based subsidiary. As the reinforcing fiber fabric in composite materials, carbon fibers are considered the materials of the future. Fiber composite materials promise solutions wherever light, but nevertheless stable, structures are required. Oerlikon Schlafhorst The new Autocoro 8 is thus the first and only rotor spinning machine to spin a yarn at a rotor speed of 200,000 rpm. The new technology forms the basis for productivity increases of up to 25%, machine start-up in minutes instead of hours, an excellent multi-lot capability and much lower spinning costs. The BD 448 is the longest semi-automatic rotor spinning machine in the world. The Zinser ring spinning machines 351 and 451 promise unique process reliability with the Impact FX compact spinning technology and the CoWeMat doffer. And the quality package of the Autoconer X5 sets the benchmark for individually and flexibly adaptable package quality with maximum productivity. Oerlikon Neumag The company notes that it is the leading supplier of highly advanced BCF carpet yarn machines. The BCF best seller in 2011, the S+ with three ends per position, is now available for the up-and-coming raw material polyester BCF. The BCF S+ for polyester is a perfect substitute for polyester spun yarn on account of its cost efficiency in production. Production systems for polyester staple fibres permit maximum capacities of up to 300 tonnes per day and cut operating costs at the same time. For manufacturers of nonwovens such as geotextiles, compact inline systems with capacities of up to 80 tonnes per day offer suitable solutions as they permit small production batches and require few operators. Also on the agenda are machines or turnkey systems for the production of nonwovens from spunbond and meltblown to airlaid. Visitors to the exhibition can also navigate through the innovations in 3D on a virtual tour of the installation. Oerlikon Saurer The market leader in embroidery and twisting is putting the emphasis on energy saving with the new Volkmann CT: the eco-drive concept and spindles are complement to the e-save spindle family and help to save up to 40 per cent of energy costs, even for the finest yarn counts. Next new process: Volkmann Heat-SET integrates cabling, thermofixing and winding in one process ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW sequence, thus reducing process costs and speeding up order completion. The new Allma TC2 two-for-one twisting machine can process every conceivable material in the titre range from 235 to 60,000 dtex. It thus satisfies the demand for top quality, application variety and production flexibility in the market for technical plied yarns. Its sister machine Allma CC4 is revolutionizing the tyre cord cabling market with energy savings of up to 50%. Oerlikon Textile Components Oerlikon Textile Components will presents its advanced products in the filament industry and staple fiber spinning industry. Picanol E3 C10 Picanol will present a wide variety of weaving machines, both airjet and rapier. For the first time on the Asian continent, the new OMNIplus Summum will be shown. This weaving machine will be the new platform for further developments in the airjet segment. The main highlights of this machine are the new insertion system and the Picanol BlueBox system, the new electronic platform for Picanol machines. Besides the OMNIplus Summum, also the OMNIplus-X will be on display. This machine is developed and produced in Picanol’s Suzhou plant in China, but using the proven OMNIplus 800 technology. The OMNIplus-X responds to the requirements of the Asian mid-end segment and comes in weaving widths of 190 cm and 220 cm. Caption: OMNIplus Summum-4-P-340 Sheeting fabric As for the rapier machines, the highlight is an OptiMax weaving a technical fabric. On ITMA Barcelona Picanol presented the OptiMax in a guided positive gripper execution. Although available in all widths (up to 540 cm), this especially opens new perspectives in technical segments such as coating fabrics, primary and secondary carpet backing, geogrids and so on. Other rapier machines on display are the GT-Max with jacquard and GTX-plus, both machines produced in Suzhou. In total six Picanol machines will be on display. Five on its own booth, and one Picanol OptiMax with jacquard will be on display at the Bonas booth. Rieter W2 A10 At the ITMA Asia + CITME 2012 exhibition, Swiss textile machinery maker Rieter will be demonstrating its competence across the entire spinning process and presenting all four end spinning systems. Based on its 1.5m working width and maximum active carding area, the C 70 high-performance card achieves excellent quality values at highest production for all yarn applications. Precise flats guiding and innovation in the pre- and post-carding area allow, with AD: SSM SCHÄRER SCHWEITER METTLER AG ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW the selective waste extraction, an excellent raw material exploitation and sliver quality. With the integrated grinding system IGS, the sliver quality is maintained at a high level. Caption: Rieter’s C 70 high-performance card Rieter’s G 32 ring spinning machine can be equipped with EliTeCompactSet for compact spinning applications. The EliTeCompactSet and Rieter’s cost-efficient ring spinning technology of G 32 with the Rieter P3-1 guide arm have been combined to achieve high value compact yarn quality on a reasonable investment cost. The new R 60 fully automatic rotor spinning machine is said to set new standards in quality, productivity and flexibility with reduced energy consumption. The improved spinning stability of the new S 60 spinning unit allows a productivity increase of up to 5% over other machines, with better yarn quality. With enormous productivity potential with 540 rotors and up to four fast robots, the machine can achieve uniform yarn quality with the yarn-like piecing technology AEROpiecing. Rosink W2 A22 A German producer of service machines for cot maintenance and carding flat workshops and can coilers, Rosink will present two oppositional machines at the fair. SZ1 A Twin / HA grinding center combines the fully automatic grinding of two top rollers at the same time and a productivity of more than 500 top rollers per hour, together with the universal applicability of the semi automatic part, it covers almost every spinning roller on the market. Caption: Rosink SZ1 A Twin / HA “Robby”, on the other hand, is the latest innovation of Rosink, developed for complementing purposes of the product portfolio, which consists of full and semi automatic grinding machines. It works manual and delivers grinding results at a productivity of approximately 300 top rollers per hour while enjoying a low price. Santex E1 C03 Santex will present its products under brands, Santex, Cavitec, Isotex and SperottoRimar. Under the brand of Santex, the company will present, Synpact: A continuous two-stage compacting machine which combines the virtues of the rubber belt with the superior handle of the felt shrinking technique. This compactor, already installed and running with a leading customer of Santex, delivers at high speeds up to double than those achievable with the felt technology, while maintaining a better residual shrinkage, luster finish and excellent touch of the knits. Besides, the new coating and laminating machine, called CAVI-2-COAT, is Cavitec’s latest addition to its already extensive range of hotmelt coating and lamination solutions. A masterfully designed arrangement allows the user to coat films, membranes or textiles with one of the following selectable techniques: Full Coating, Reverse Coating, Both side coating, plus the by now traditional Gravure (Dot) Coating. As in all Cavitec products, several configurations are possible: from coating only with small batches up to non-stop lines combining coating and laminating in one process. Caption: Santex Synpact compacting machine Shima Seiki E6 E01 Japanese flat knitting machinery maker Shima Seiki says it will be focusing on revitalizing and sustaining knitting industries in China and Asia in the future. It will showcase its knitting machines, 3D design system and flatbed inkjet printing machine. Caption: Shima Seiki MACH2X WHOLEGARMENT knitting machine available in ultrafine 18L gauge To be on display are MACH2X WHOLEGARMENT knitting machine available in ultrafine 18L gauge, equipped with 4 needle beds featuring SHIMA’s original SlideNeedle, as well as SWG091N WHOLEGARMENT accessory knitting machine which can produce such items as gloves, socks, leggings, hats, and scarves. The company will also present at the fair its SDS-ONE APEX3 3D design system which supports all aspects of the apparel supply chain by integrating the various stages of planning, design and production into one smooth workflow. Besides, SIP-160F2S compact flatbed inkjet printing machine will also be displayed. It has adjustable printing head height for printing not only on flat fabrics, but on complete WHOLEGARMENT knitwear as well. Towards a new era of knitting, the Japanese company says it will present the next phase in industrial modernization, and a majority of its knitting machine models are first-time introductions at ITMA Asia + CITME. SSM W3 C02 The Swiss-based SSM Schärer Schweiter Mettler AG, the inventor of the electronic yarn traverse system, will have two new product launches and a total of four machines to be exhibited at the exhibition. The focus of the show will be the exhibition of new ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW Caption: SSM GIUDICI combi machine TG30 solutions for cost-effective and energy saving winding and yarn processing. For the first time in Asia, SSM will show a machine created by their new subsidiary SSM GIUDICI S.r.l. With this, SSM gained a strong market position in the field of false twist texturing of high quality fine count Nylon yarns, an application that complements SSM’s established leadership in air texturing, thus expanding SSM’s business in chemical fibre processing industries. With two new product launches and a number of innovations & applications for their well-known product range, SSM will exhibit a total of four machines. Machines for the applications of dyeing and rewinding as well as false twist texturing will be on display. Stäubli E3 E01 Stäubli will be showing a selection of its most modern products of the complete textile machinery range. This includes cam motions, dobbies, and electronic Jacquard machines with harnesses, weaving preparation systems with automatic warp drawing-in, leasing and warp tying machines. Two complete Jacquard installations on weaving machines will be demonstrated at the booth. The first one is equipped with a type LX3202 with 12288 hooks producing tapestry and upholstery fabric on a 180 cm wide rapier weaving machine. The second is the new-type SX electronic Jacquard machine with 2688 hooks weaving terry towel fabric on a 260 cm wide rapier weaving machine. Both machines can be seen from the second floor of the two storey booth building to have a detailed look at the working Jacquard units. The full range of Stäubli harness types will be shown with a type DX Jacquard machine for any standard application on a demonstration stand. CX 182 type Jacquard machine for weaving narrow fabrics such as ribbons and labels will be shown with 192 hooks and harness with 4 repeats. For the first time in China the new dobby type 3060 can be seen. This new generation of rotary dobbies opens new areas of performance and reliability. To complete the picture of the Stäubli shedding systems the refined positive cam motion type 1681, the negative cam motion type S1352 as well as the universal positive rotary dobby type 2658 are being demonstrated at the booth. Caption: New rotary dobby type 3060 Weaving preparation systems will present the mobile automatic drawing-in machine SAFIR S30. Furthermore the warp-tying machines MAGMA AD: THIES GMBH & CO.KG ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW for coarser yarn counts, and proven TOPMATIC for standard application, and multilayer leasing machine OPAL for leasing a 1:1 lease in warps with up to 8 layers including color detection will be demonstrated. Stoll E6 C06 German knitting machinery maker Stoll will premiere a new machine and present new intelligent knitting technologies in Shanghai. Exhibiting for the first time, the company will showcase a new machine that offers the knitting industry unprecedented freedom. Above all, it enables greater variability, flexibility, and productivity with the quality and speed that Stoll is known for. Designers gain new possibilities for creating imaginative looks while incorporating additional colors. Stoll’s high-tech commitment is emphasized by a newly developed brand image. This is evident in the company’s redesigned booth, which will also debut in Shanghai. Its trade show motto for 2012 is “Knitting Performance by Stoll”: a variety of knit patterns will be displayed in the booth. Caption: Stoll will premiere a new knitting machine A large-area visual presentation on the inside walls of the new booth can be seen from afar, inviting trade show attendees to drop in and talk shop. The two-level exhibition and meeting section is light and airy, to unveil an elegantly puristic yet comfortable ambience. Stork Prints E1 D01 On display at the booth of Dutch Stork Prints will be the new digital textile printer Sphene as well as consumables like rotary screens and digital ink. Caption: Stork Prnts’ Sphere digital textile printer Stork Prints’ Sphene is the future for digital textile printing with print speeds up to an amazing amount of 555 sqm/hr. The Sphene makes it easy - and cost-effective - to carry out top-class digital textile printing. Its industrial fabric feeding system allows virtually any fabric imaginable to be used, at widths of up to 1.85 meters. There will also be printing samples of Stork Prints’ new NEBULA reactive, acid and disperse ink sets for Kyocera print heads. With the special Reactive Deep Black ink, you get a profoundly intense and dark black. Stork Prints will also presents its complete range of FLARE inks that run on all printers using Epson print heads, including Robustelli Monna Lisa printers. Stork Prints inks are not just suited for the new printer Sphene, but can also run on the Reggiani Renoir, MS JP and MS JPK-series printers and the La Meccanica Qualijet K-series. Recently, Stork Prints has developed a range of inks, known as QUASAR, for the MS LaRio, for partner and leading Italian manufacturer MS. The suitability of QUASAR inks for the LaRio stems from Stork Prints’ experience in developing inks for its own single-pass digital printing machines for label printing, the DSI. For a number of years the company has been optimising ink performance for high-speed digital printing machines to help deliver superior image quality. This includes patented technology to prevent striping. Suessen W2 C 01 Germany-based Suessen is a supplier of technology components and conversions for the yarn manufacturing industry in ring, open-end and airjet spinning. It will present its EliTeCompactSet V5 and Cot Protecting System (CPS). Caption: Suessen’s ELiTe Compact Spinning system The company is renowned for its EliTeCompact Spinning System. To be showcased at the fair, its EliTeCompactSet V5 features the EliVAC-CDS (Central Duct Solution). The central suction duct is located on top of the ring spinning machine, the vacuum is generated by one motor with filter box. Its main advantages are easy and fast installation, no rotating drive shafts, pulleys, belts, and bearings, and no individual fans for groups of EliTubes. The company notes that it can save energy of about 20% with fewer spare parts and less maintenance required. On the other hand, its new CPS - Cot Protecting System in man-made fiber ring spinning reduces the maintenance in the drafting unit by extending the top roller life time – an apron protects the delivery roller cot from wear with no grinding of delivery cots, and constant and equal yarn quality over a long time. SwissTex W3 C05 SwissTex’s UT, UTC and UTW machines are known for their flexibility. Different products can be twisted on each spindle thanks to fully individual driven positions, from spindle to take-up. New machines are focusing on energy saving and keeping the same perfect ergonomics. The CP machines are dedicated to tire cord markets. Among its exhibits is its new CP 20, which has a complete new design from the frame to the textile equipment, energy saving and easy ergonomics. Caption: SwissTex CP 20 ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
COTTON INCORPORATED
ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 PREVIEW SwissTex is one of the major suppliers in machinery in the field of cabling and twisting for synthetic filaments and spun yarns. For the cabling and twisting process, the company offers a wide range of machines with mechanical spindles: CD, DT and CDDT, as that carpets and rugs are more and more diversified in their style, look, structure, colors, patterns and presentations. The company also provides machinery for twisting, covering, assembling, cabling, and rewinding. It offers a complete range of twisting machines, single and double covering machines, air covering machines and combined machines. Van de Wiele E3 F06 Van de Wiele has introduced its new Innovator-range of carpet weaving machines at ITMA Barcelona 2011. Now the range has been extended with the Handlook Carpet Innovator HCi X2, using 3 rapier technology, producing 50% more than double rapier machines, very nice carpets with a hand-knotted look backside. The maximum reed density has even been extended to 1000 d/m with 8 color frames, being the most dense machine-made handlook carpets available on the market, with more than 2 million points/sqm. Samples of this innovation are displayed at the Van de Wiele booth. Caption: The best commercial rug sizes are woven on the Rug & Carpet Innovator RCi02 of 5m width The Rug & Carpet Innovator range is now available in a 5 m weaving width execution, for optimized combinations of area rug dimensions. Studies have proven that the 5 m wide carpet weaving machine of the Innovator range compared to the traditional 4 m wide has a payback of less than 2.5 years. This is valid for traditional design carpets and modern rugs with loop and cut pile, up to 10 colors, sisal look carpets, outdoor carpets and shaggy carpets. Many Van de Wiele MAX91 Axminster carpet machines are already equipped with a Smart Creel, replacing the labor-intensive and unflexible traditional bobbin creel. The Velvet Tronic VTR is manufactured in a plain/dobby execution - VTR23 – and a Jacquard execution – VTR33. The applications of velvet are numerous: upholstery, automotive, bus and train, curtain, chiffon dress, and artificial fur. For the interior fabrics, there is a fashion towards the Italian velvet with pile design combined with Jacquard ground effects. Thies E1 C01 At the fair, German textile dyeing machinery maker Thies GmbH & Co KG will exhibit its iMaster H₂O rope dyeing machine offering significant reduction in the consumption of water, chemicals, dyestuffs and energy. As introduced, the dyeing machine features a new design of rope dyeing for the processing of knit and woven goods. With a transport winch installed inside the kier, iMaster H₂O processes cotton, synthetic fibers and their blends, including articles with a high elastane content, with highly reduced elongation, resulting in dyed fabrics with improved stability and surface appearance. The new machine has put additional focus on the significant reduction of water consumption together with a decrease in the consumption of chemicals, dyestuffs and energy, says the company. It is possible because the machine uses conventional techniques without air technology, thereby achieving a liquor ratio of 1:4 in the course of dyeing. Caption: Thies iMaster H₂O The German company adds that complex rinsing systems combined with “intelligent functions” for the pre- and post-treatment of the fabric further reduce the total water and energy consumption. X-Rite E7 A56 X-Rite will present its NetProfiler 3. The major goal of the NetProfiler 3 project was to provide improved profiling support for the suite of industrial handhelds: SP62, SP64, Ci52, 962, and 964. To enable this goal, changes have been made to the profiling algorithms and, most significantly, to the ceramic calibration media. Key changes with the calibration media include: - Use of “Run of the Kiln” tile material from CERAM: This is the same material used in BCRA-II tiles but without CERAM’s final certification process - New form factor: 7/8” rounds designed to fit into to the new NetProfiler measurement base - New calibration centroids: Sphere handheld based on SP6x Series / Ci52 or 45/0 based on 96x Series The company says that benefits of the new calibration media include: - Improved quality: Visual appearance, spatial uniformity, and consistency - New form factor: 7/8” rounds designed to fit into to the new NetProfiler measurement base - Greater uniformity improves performance for smaller aperture instruments - Consistent targeting The profiling algorithms, tolerances, and calibration media for handhelds have been aligned and will significantly improve both profile performance and user experience. Also, X-RiteColor Master Version 8.5.1 and X-RiteColor Master Web Edition Version 8.5.1 have been released to provide compatibility with NetProfiler 3 and Industrial handheld instruments. ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
THREE CIRCLES KNITTING NEEDLES INDUSTRY CO., LTD
Market Focus Sportswear: An industry in flux Sports brands are struggling to keep their eyes on the ball in having to respond to many changing demands from both the market and their supply chains, writes Adrian Wilson A number of major trends are currently influencing the global US$120 billion sports and fitness clothing market, the most immediate being the increasing pressure for more sustainable and less wasteful manufacturing and sourcing. Recent reports by Greenpeace – notably its ‘Dirty Laundry’ investigation into hazardous chemical discharges into water supplies – have shaken the industry, obliging the major brands to look ever-closer at their supply chains. The formation of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) in March 2011, however, has greatly assisted in their rapid response to the potentially damaging media headlines. As a group of leading apparel and footwear brands, retailers, manufacturers, non-governmental organizations (NGOs), academic experts and the US Environmental Protection Agency, SAC started working last year on a collaborative approach to reducing the environmental and social impacts of apparel and footwear products sold around the world. Caption: Adidas, Nike and Puma are among companies who have this year made pledges to work together towards zero discharge as a result of recent Greenpeace reports The stated aims of SAC are: - Leading the industry towards a shared vision of sustainability built on an industry-wide index for measuring and evaluating apparel and footwear products. - Spotlighting promising technological innovations. - Identifying opportunities for improving current social and environmental practices throughout the supply chain by collaborating to establish consistent expectations for brands, retailers and manufacturers. Among its key sportswear members are Adidas, Mountain Equipment, New Balance, the Outdoor Industry Association, Patagonia and Target. “Detox” Going a stage further in response to the Greenpeace challenge to the sporting goods industry to ‘detox’, Adidas, Nike and Puma are among a group of companies who have this year made pledges to work together towards zero discharge over specified time periods. Alexis Olans, Senior Global Project Manager for Adidas in Germany outlined the significance of collaboration in responding to such challenges. “Even if Adidas was taking ten or even twenty per cent of a certain mill’s output, it was still hard to have a direct influence on their operations,” she said. “Now, however, working in collaboration with the other brands we have much more leverage.” “Tackling and achieving the goal of zero discharge is a complex technical and systems challenge – one that a single brand or even a small group of brands cannot solve alone,” added Karin Ekberg, Adidas South East Asia Head of Environmental Services. “The group of brands have thousands and thousands of suppliers and we will need to make sure that we have a concerted approach as we move forward.” During 2012 several projects are being undertaken, focused on: - The screening of chemicals. - Developing general inventories of the chemicals used. - Confirming which chemicals have been phased out and identifying those that need to be phased out or their discharge limited. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
SAN DA CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Market Focus Powerhouse The US is currently the world’s single largest and most developed regional market for sports and fitness clothing, with Europe and Asia-Pacific trailing behind. In respect of the fastest growth, however, Asia-Pacific, spurred by the rapidly expanding markets of China and India, is expected to race ahead in the next few years. Caption: There is a radical change going on in China, and the time is coming to reassess, notes Mark Held But China’s dominance as the manufacturing powerhouse for all of these goods can no longer be taken for granted. Adidas and Nike, for example, are known to have already relocated a lot of their production, albeit still following the maybe now outdated model of constantly moving to lower cost production countries. In the future, however, there is likely to be much more of a trend towards localized production and distribution routes, as is taking place in other industries such as automotive and large-scale consumer goods such as baby diapers. Some of the reasons for this were outlined by Mark Held, Secretary General of the European Outdoor Group (EOG) at the recent Innov-Ex conference held in Lancaster in the UK during April. For an industry such as outdoor gear – as a smaller sector within that of general sportswear – it is time for a radical overhaul in Europe, he suggested. “The so-called Asian Dawn was an opportunity to be shut of manufacturing in Europe and for many years the smaller brands were achieving margins they had only previously dreamed of,” he said. “We got some great product out of it too. Now, however, virtually everything is in China and Asia and we are realizing it’s at a cost. China was once a buyer’s paradise for us, but now everything’s changed.” Domestic market Consumer demand for outdoor products in China itself is growing all the time, he added, and the mills find supplying to their domestic market preferable to dealing with Western brands. “It’s now very much a manufacturer’s market even for the big guys. Mills are giving 18 months lead times which makes it impossible to respond to the changing demands of the market. It’s becoming very difficult to plan ahead in terms of volume and even the bigger players are wanting minimum order quantities to reduce their exposure to risk.” At the same time, he added Chinese mills are having to pay annual increases of up to 25% a year simply to keep their workers in the textile industry. “There is a radical change going on in China,” Held said, “and the time is coming to reassess because we need more flexible options. Production closer to home would allow for higher raw material stocks and significantly reduce lead times. The goal was always the margins and now they are not being realized. The real price of outdoor gear has gone down.” Olympics in London London in the UK will without doubt be the sports capital of the world in coming months, as the host of the Olympic Games 20102. As the official sponsor, Adidas will be seeking to use the games as a springboard to overtake Nike, as the biggest sportswear company in the UK, at least. Nike is currently the UK market leader with an 18% share of its £4.3 billion sportswear market, with Adidas in second place with a 15% share. Caption: Adidas appointed Stella McCartney as the creative director of Team GB. All told, Adidas is anticipating £100 million in sales from the Olympics In addition to kitting out the athletes in 25 of the 26 Olympic sports, Adidas is dressing the 70,000 Olympic volunteers, providing the outfits for the pre-games torch relay and creating clothing for the athletes to wear in the Olympic Village. Adidas is also the official clothing licensee for the games, and is selling Olympic-themed and branded clothes through its own stores and third-party retailers, such as Tesco and Asda. It appointed Stella McCartney as the creative director of Team GB and she is providing the team with garments such as their signature tracksuits and has also designed more fashionable ranges. All told, Adidas anticipates £100 million in sales from the Olympics. Recycling in sportswear Sustainability, however, has again been an issue for Adidas in the build-up to the games. The brand had initially aimed to have 100% of the garments it provided recycled, but in the end achieved 70%. “Some of the time lines involved in the build-up to the games ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Market Focus prevented us from achieving one hundred per cent,” said Alexis Olans. “It’s basically a five-year process from development to realisation and we are already working on the ranges for the next Olympics now.” Specific issues that caused difficulties were, for example, swimwear, with resistance to chlorine a big issue. As a result, the swimwear being supplied is 82% recycled polyester with 18% elastane. Recycled polyester is also slightly weaker in performance, so in the basketball outfits created more elastane was required there too. “We have been asking our suppliers for constructions that have not been required before, with new specifications and challenges,” said Olans. “These developments, however, will now be in place going forward.” Active ageing Beyond the Olympics, the sportswear industry will be impacted by a number of general lifestyle changes, including the blurring of the distinction between sports apparel and garments used for casual, business, everyday or street wear, the increasing participation in sports by women and the rapidly aging population. In respect of the latter, it has been estimated that by 2030, over 30% of the global population will be over 60 years of age, and a high number will be active in sports. Caption: Sensors are increasingly being integrated into sportswear, including the new Stella McCartney Sports Bra Their requirements, however, will differ in a number of ways, and most significantly the current mindset of the over 60s involves little, if any, brand allegiance. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the brands have virtually ignored this age group, choosing to target younger consumers. Now, however, it is a market that’s becoming too big not to find some way of addressing. This is an issue that’s been the subject of the Design for Ageing Well research project led by the University of Wales at Newport. “The project has encouraged collaboration with industry partners, including fabric producers, garment manufacturers and technology providers to ensure the effective translation of the findings of academic research, to inform the eventual launch of commercial products for the rapidly growing active ageing market,” explained David Taylor, a key member of the research team in Newport. “Little has been done to help designers understand the needs of the ageing, with a particular focus on clothing and wearable technologies. To bring new products to an emerging market, many stakeholders in the product development chain, and in product launch, will benefit from the knowledge transfer of current research findings.” Integration of sensors The integration of sensors is a fast-growing sector in sportswear, notably for performance monitoring, and this is also likely to be of key significance to enabling the elderly to do much more. “Co-design is a new approach which brings together researchers, industry partners and active ageing participants in the development of a clothing layering system comprising base, mid and outer layer garments that incorporate smart textiles and wearable technologies,” Taylor explained. “Initial prototypes are being designed, he added, to address the user-needs identified and to demonstrate how the attributes of modern textiles and novel garment manufacture may enhance the independence, safety, wellbeing and sense of adventure in the everyday lives of older wearers.” ■ AD: PREMIUM TEXTILE COMPONENTS GROUP ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Textile Technology Feature Testing and QC Testing automatically, accurately and fast by Staff Reporters Quality and functionality are the two key drivers of the textile and apparel industry amid the fierce competition. And running tests seems to be the best possible way to guarantee products’ quality in terms of the pledged functionalities, performance level and absence of harmful substances. In this sense, textile testing laboratories as well as brands’ or manufacturers’ in-house laboratories are playing a pivotal role in providing test results quickly and accurately. According to the US-based testing equipment supplier Q-Lab, one of the biggest challenges faced by textile testing laboratories is the need for automated testing equipment that provides simple yet reliable testing in a high volume environment. At the recent 2nd China International Forum on New Knitting Technologies & Improving First-time Success Rate of Dyeing organized by Adsale Publishing Limited and the China Textile Engineering Society (CTES), Robert K. Lattie, Product Management Director of SDL Atlas Ltd, anticipated that as garments increasingly added with special functions, there will be more and better ways to measure and control the important added-value features that fabric and apparel manufacturers will be offering to the consumers. China’s growing quality demand The textile testing market is growing significantly in China, “In the past, our customers used to be multinational companies from the US and Europe, but now we have more and more Chinese customers who have high standard of quality, such as Chinese famous brands Lilang and Septwolves,” said Tracy Cheng, Marketing Manager of SDL Atlas Ltd at ShanghaiTex 2011 organized by Adsale Exhibition Services Limited. She noted that the traditional testing equipment for physical tests, lightfastness and colorfastness tests is already considered as the basic requirement, nowadays Chinese customers are paying more attention to functionality testing, such as moisture management test. Besides China, Ms Cheng pointed out that in the past two years, Asian countries such as Vietnam and Indonesia have been growing fast in terms of sales volume in testing equipment and the scale of their laboratories. Challenge in color management Color management is an important part in textile quality control. Some manufacturers, however, tend to overlook the significance of color quality and consistency of their products. Color science and technology specialist X-Rite said that consumers take clothing color into consideration before they make a purchase, If the manufacturer produces goods that has a discrepancy in color, customers will buy goods from other competitor which has consistent color. Experts estimate that China losts millions of yuan each year in time and resources as brand owners reject testing swatches and products that don’t meet the visual color standards or requirements. Some textile mills and dyehouses said that they reject only 20% of their first lab dip internally during visual inspection, but specifiers report that they reject up to 80% of the first lab dip that they receive from their suppliers. X-Rite estimates that it costs more than RMB 9,400 in time and resources for each sample a dyehouse sent to a specifier for evaluation. X-Rite suggests that companies which are concerned about the color quality of products may use spectrophotometers and colorimeters to make sure their processes adhere to tight numerical specifications. However, companies can easily overlook the need to do proper visual evaluation of colors and color differences as part of their quality control. “Much of this confusion comes from the fact that the suppliers and their customers are not evaluating the color of products in the ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Textile Technology Feature Testing and QC Image source: Oeko-Tex Association same way. Manufacturers need to ask the specifier or brand owner about the procedures and equipment they use to evaluate colors visually,” noted Ken Philips, Product Marketing Manager of X-Rite. He added, “At some point in the supply chain, people need to evaluate how the colors of products look when they are placed under the same illumination as where they are sold or used. And there isn’t any substitute for the human eye when it comes to judging whether customers will be satisfied with the colors of products.” Some technologies from testing and quality control instruments suppliers Coloursmith’s Chroma-Fast series The UK-based testing instruments supplier Coloursmith’s range of Chroma- Fast machines are designed to meet BS, ISO, AATCC and retailers standards for the determination of color fastness to washing and dry cleaning. Various Combinations comprising of SINGLE and MULTIBATH machines are available accommodating between 4-24 test vessels in each bath. Caption: Coloursmith’s Chroma-Fast series machine The MULTIBATH concept provides flexibility, with the option to run different test standards at different times in the separate baths. MULTIBATH machines can have the options of Independent Drive (ID) or common drive (CD). The Common Drive option means that one motor operates both baths, while with Independent Drive (ID) each bath is driven independently. Irrespective of which combination is selected, each bath is provided with independent temperature control, and time alarm. Available in 550ml or 1100ml capacity for ISO / AATCC testing, its test vessels fit into the machine using a bayonet socket fitting and quick release lid. The vessels are designed for wash fastness test conditions and meet the standard of being 75 +/- 5mm diameter, 125 +/- 10mm in height. The test vessels are positioned in the machine containers are 45 +/- 10mm from the center of the shaft. James Heal’s Elmatear² digital tear tester The UK-based testing equipment supplier James Heal has extensively redesigned its key instrument Elmatear², incorporating contemporary styling and a wide range of new features which offer such benefits as better value, increased accuracy, safety and flexibility. Applied for testing textiles, nonwovens, paper, board and plastics, the instrument is supplied with a full set of pendulum weights (A-D), a complete set of check weights and specimen, one spare blade and four specimen preparation tables. Caption: James Heal’s Elmatear² Digital Tear Tester An optional feature is Pendulum Weight Kit (E), which allows double capacity to 128N. As introduced, this has made it ideal for testing higher strength technical textiles such as roofing shingles, personal protection equipment (PPE) and high strength upholstery and apparel fabrics. Pendulum E allows quick and easy clamping with innovative rotary cam lock jaws and interchangeable jaw faces. Fool-proof in operation, Elmatear² has automatic level compensation, automatic pendulum weight detection, automatic zeroing and visible and audible indicators. Also it has built-in safety, having no finger traps, two handed release of pendulum and automatic arrest of pendulum. Lloyd’s LS5 materials testing machine for textile testing The UK-based manufacturer of materials testing machines Lloyd Instruments recently introduced a new, high precision universal instrument for use right through the textile supply chain and manufacturing process, from evaluating new materials to quality testing of finished products. Operating at forces up to 5 kN/1124 lbf, the new, single column LS5 enjoys the same mechanical design principles introduced on the LS1 instrument, with linear guide technology, pre-loaded ball screws and advanced software compensation to ensure high displacement precision. Equally suited to quality control and R&D environments, with scalable operation from stand-alone to PC control, the new LS5 can be used in a multitude of textile testing applications. These include testing seam slippage, tear resistance, breaking strength and ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Textile Technology Feature Testing and QC Caption: Lloyd’s LS5 materials testing machine for textile testing elongation. The LS5 offers extraordinary versatility, with its extensive range of grips, fixtures and extensometers that can accommodate individual yarns of any fiber type through to complete textile sheets ranging from nonwoven and woven fabrics, through elastomeric materials to geotextiles. The LS5 is capable of performing a wide range of tests, including tensile, compression, flexural, friction, insertion/extraction, peeling, tearing and creep/relaxation, meeting or exceeding national and international material test standards. Simple operation, from the intuitive stand-alone user interface to Lloyd Instruments NEXYGENPlus materials testing software used in PC-controlled versions, makes the LS5 a popular addition to any laboratory or production line. NEXYGENPlus materials testing software allows the operator to control and monitor all aspects of a PC-controlled LS5 from a single front end, ensuring fast, reliable and powerful testing and data analysis. Mahlo’s QUALISCAN QMS-10A quality control system Germany-based Mahlo’s QUALISCAN QMS-10A Quality Control System is flexible to fit the monitoring and control needs of paper, film, nonwoven and textile industries. Different sensors are available for measuring critical production parameters such as weight, moisture or thickness. For different applications, specific sensors are available to effectively and accurately cover the customer’s online monitoring needs. Various control solutions make it possible for the QMS010A to be integrated into either new or existing production lines where quality improvement and assurance are needed. The open, Ethernet-based platform allows for easy access to all measurement data through a variety of network interfaces. Its Central Control Station in an upright standing steel cabinet (IP 53 standards) contains a rigid industrial PC with integrated UPS and 15” LCD, TFT color display with touch screen. Caption: Mahlo’s QUALISCAN QMS-10A The system also features intelligent sensors and gauging systems with integrated microprocessors for signal treatment and/or measurement value processing. Mesdan’s evenness tester MT Italian Mesdan’s Evenness Tester MT is designed for the evenness and hairiness control of slivers, rovings and spun yarns. The system analyzes periodic mass variations generated in the manufacturing process without the need of another external sensor. Caption: Mesdan’s Evenness Tester MT The tester features a capacitive sensor with wide testing range (from 80g/m of sliver up to Ne 200 yarn) and a modular system, enabling to integrate the H-Sensor (for hairiness measurement) and fully automatic testing (with the addition of the Automatic Cop Changer). It is therefore very easy to control the mass variation in the whole spinning process as well as to identify the exact origin of the faults in the spinning process by analyzing the spectrogram. It allows fully automatic system calibration, obtaining results that are compatible and comparable with the most popular international standards. Q-Lab’s Q-SUN B02-S xenon tester The US-based lightfastness and weathering test equipment supplier Q-Lab has recently released a new water spray feature for the rotating rack Q-SUN B02-S xenon tester. The Q-SUN B02 is an affordable lightfastness tester designed specifically to meet the requirements of ISO and AATCC. The water spray function gives the Q-SUN B02-S the ability to perform weathering testing in addition to lightfastness testing. This latest model of Q-SUN provides a capacity that is 48% to 92% larger than comparable xenon testers. Setting a new level of efficiency for textile lightfastness testing, the B02 incorporates large specimen capacity and precise control of critical test parameters including: spectrum, irradiance, relative humidity, chamber temperature and black standard temperature. The Q-Lab B02 xenon tester, designed for flexibility, ease of use and reliability, provides a cost-effective solution to these requirements. Textile testing laboratories of all sizes will now find fully automatic xenon lightfastness and weathering testing possible with the affordable Q-SUN B02-S. Caption: Q-Lab’s Q-SUN B02-S xenon tester ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD
Textile Technology Feature Testing and QC SDL Atlas Moisture Management Tester (MMT) Testing equipment supplier SDL Atlas and the Hong Kong Polytechnic University have developed Moisture Management Tester (MMT). It can generate data in a two-minute test for wetting time, absorption rate, maximum wetting radius, spreading speed, and accumulative one-way transport capability. MMT was developed to measure dynamic liquid transport properties of knit and woven fabrics in three dimensions: Caption: SDL Atlas Moisture Management Tester (MMT) 1. Absorption Rate - Moisture absorbing time of the fabric’s inner and outer surfaces; 2. One-way Transportation Capability - One-way transfer from fabric’s inner surface to outer surface; 3. Spreading/Drying Rate - Speed of liquid moisture spreading on fabric’s inner and outer surfaces. MMT consists of upper and lower concentric moisture sensors. The specimen is held flat under fixed pressure between the sensors while standard test solution is introduced on to the top surface of the fabric.electrical resistance changes between the upper and lower sensors are then recorded dynamically on computer. MMT permits the measurement of such indexes as Wetting Time Top/Bottom (WTT/WTB), Absorption Rate Top/Bottom (TAR/BAR), Maximum Wetted Radius Top/Bottom (MWRT/MWRB), Spreading Speed Top/Bottom (TSS/BSS), Accumulative One-Way Transport Capacity (R), and Overall Moisture Management Capacity (OMMC). Testechno’s FIBROTEST fiber length and strength tester FIBROTEST of German Textechno Herbert Stein GmbH & Co KG incorporates both fiber length measurement and fiber strength test within the same instrument. The two measurements – at first fiber length and thereafter fiber strength – are executed in succession on the same sample. After completing these measurements the sample size between the clamps is automatically determined, which enables to calculate the exact and absolute value of tenacity. Caption: Testechno’s FIBROTEST fiber length and strength tester Operation of the FIBROTEST does not require calibration cotton and is, therefore, independent of any influences from this side. Nevertheless the system can be calibrated with calibration cotton to duplicate HVI results. Use of the tester is simple and straightforward: The operator prepares the sample with the same type of sample holder as used in other equipment known on the market. Unavoidable fiber mass variation along the sample holder is – different from conventional testers – compensated by the FIBROTEST optical system with high lateral resolution. After inserting the sample holder into the tester all test functions are executed fully automatically. Control of the test process as well as measured data evaluation featuring printout of individual values and their statistical analysis is provided by the Textechno TESTCONTROL system, consisting of PC and Textechno software. The tester recently received an official and full recognition from the International Committee on Cotton Testing Methods (ICCTM), a Committee of the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF). Testex’s FX 3150 water vapor transmission rate tester Switzerland-based Testex’s FX 3150 Water Vapor Transmission Rate Tester GRAVITEST is used for automatic, accurate, and cost-effective determination of the water vapor transmission rate of a wide variety of materials, such as plastic films, roofing and building materials, woven and nonwoven textiles, coated fabrics, barrier and medical materials, with the gravimetric method. Caption: Textest’s FX 3150 Water Vapor Transmission Rate Tester Testing of small samples and special materials such as concrete is also possible using special accessories.It features high accuracy due to repeated tests until the system is in equilibrium and the test results are stable. Fast and convenient sample clamping, it works in accordance with all relevant test standards. Uster’s Quantum 3 Uster has recently introduced its Uster Quantum 3, which measures, analyzes and proposes how the yarn on the winding machines can best be tailored to the spinner’s quality and productivity needs. It is said to be the only clearer able to visualize the yarn quality. The company notes that Uster Quantum 3 is its most advanced clearer yet, packed with future-oriented technology. It features the Smart Clearing Technology, an unbeatable combination of high-technology sensors and built-in knowledge. Powerful new capacitive, optical and foreign matter sensors are at the core of the Uster Quantum 3. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Textile Technology Feature Testing and QC Caption: Uster Quantum 3 In combination with powerful processing electronics, for the first time ever, the system shows the full yarn body. Then, drawing on built-in its know-how, it proposes suitable clearing limits to achieve the required quality level. X-Rite SpectraLight QC X-Rite’s SpectraLight QC light booth is precisely calibrated to add the correct amount of ultraviolet light to simulate natural daylight as directed under CIE Publication 51 (CIE / ISO SO12E) metamerism index standards. Metamerism is an optical phenomenon where a pair of samples might match in color under one light source, but appear different under another light source. Lab personnel can also adjust the amount of ultraviolet light in the SpectraLight QC light booth, depending on how the sample should be tested. Companies that are visually evaluating color should also be careful about intensity of light they shed on test samples. Several trade organizations representing the textile and other industries have issued standards that spell out best practices in the amount light used to illuminate light, medium and dark colored samples when evaluating their colors. For instance, one standard states that the illumination may be as low as 50 foot-candles or 540 lux for viewing very light materials and as high as 200 foot-candles or 2150 lux for viewing very dark materials. Caption: A lab personnel is conducting a test with X-Rite’s SpectraLight QC light booth Both lux and foot-candle are measurements of the intensity of light that is brought to bear on a defined area. One lux is defined as one lumen uniformly distributed over an area of one square meter. A typical office may have illuminations in the 320 to 500 lux range, while direct sunlight on a clear day may be measured at more than 100,000 lux. A foot-candle is defined as one lumen uniformly distributed over an area of one square foot, with one foot-candle equaling the power of approximately 10.8 lux. Companies can use a light meter to determine the lux or foot-candles that are falling on a sample and adjust test lighting accordingly. Quality control personnel who use the SpectraLight QC light booth can adjust lux settings depending on the standards they wish to implement. ■ AD: TESTEX SWISS TEXTILE-TESTING LTD
Material Technology Nano coatings add new dimensions to functional fabrics by Sanjay Gupta The fantasy world of Harry Potter’s invisibility cloak or Superman‘s fireproof, bullet-proof cape no longer seem to be mere fiction, rather they are expected to become a reality in not-too-distant future. Who would have thought a decade ago that fabrics could be administering medications, monitoring blood pressure and temperature, congealing bleeding wounds, administering aromatherapy and bodycare, or becoming personal area network? All these textile products are today available off-the-shelf thanks to the advances made in the field of functional fabrics. It’s a rapidly emerging market segment that is headed mainstream in both fashion and non-fashion applications. According to a recent estimate, the global market for these fabrics and relevant technologies is expected to reach US$1.8 billion by 2015. There has been increasing momentum in recent years in the use of nanotechnology for making functional fabric products with new and enhanced properties, such as stain and water repellence, flame retardance, antimicrobial properties, UV protection, abrasion resistance, odor absorption and insect repellence. Most remarkable feature of nano-coatings is that unlike traditional coatings they are not film-like, but a thousand times finer, which when applied to a textile substrate ensure that crucial inherent qualities of base fabric such as the look, drape, handle and breathability are unaffected. As these coatings can be applied to fabric lengths, as also to fabricated 3D products incorporating several different materials, problems associated with processing pure films/coatings are overcome. For example you can effectively treat a shoe, where not only the uppers but also the laces, stitching, toe box and heel collar will get coated. While earlier applications were based on metalized fabrics, Researchers are now experimenting with polymeric coatings using newer techniques such as atomic layer deposition, and surface activation using plasma. Commercial applications of nano coatings Among commercial applications, P2i, a UK based company is offering a patented ion-mask technology (based on a doctoral work at Durham University) that employs a pulsed ionized gas (plasma) to grow a highly hydrophobic, nano-polymer (40-80 nm) layer over the entire surface of an object, based on perfluorinated carbon compounds. The nano-coating has the effect of lowering surface energy, down to one third that of PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) thus imparting unmatched water and stain repellency to the fabric. Caption: Ion-mask on sheepskin boot protects them from wetting Thanks to the gas-phase operation of the polymerization process, the nano-coating can be effectively applied to complex, 3D shapes. The technology has been successfully applied on finished lifestyle products such as footwear, performance and protective textiles, accessories (gloves and headwear), workwear and eyewear. The ion-mask branded products are on sale from several international footwear companies including Timberland, Nike, Adidas Golf, Hi-Tec, Magnum Boots, Van Dal, Teva, and K-Swiss. An Australian company, Alexium has licensed what is called the Reactive Surface Treatment (RST) technology from the Air Force Research Laboratory of US Department of Defense. RST fixes polymer based nano-coatings onto textile substrates by using microwave energy to direct the precursor’s polymerization onto the substrate’s surface. Based on the precursor’s chemistry, the textile material properties, and the solution used to mix these, the resulting nano-coating may either bond with the textile or simply coat the substrate surface. RST can be used to produce multi-functional textile coatings that can make the fabric antimicrobial, flame-retardant, and oil and water shedding in a single stage process. These fabrics are expected to result in greater soldier protection from chemical and biological threats. The latest in the area of nano-coating is use of the inkjet ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Material Technology printing technology. Xennia Technology of UK has launched an inkjet printing system together with Reggiani of Italy that uses a nano-enhanced printing and coating solution allowing deposition of coatings with dirt repellent, water repellent and fire retardant properties. Nano coatings of ICPs on fibers and fabrics Researchers have found widespread applications out of applying nano coatings of inherently electrically conductive polymers (ICPs) like polypyrrole (PPY) and polyaniline (PAni) onto various fibers and fabric types. By choosing the base fabric construction for certain properties such as strength, porosity, stretch and thickness etc, and customizing conductive polymer coating for controlled surface resistivity, fabrics can be prepared with a broad range of properties such as surface conductivity/resistivity, bulk conductivity/resistivity, shielding, impedance and reflectivity etc. Such coated fabrics find commercial applications in some very intriguing products such as dynamic pressure sensors, resistive heaters, radar-absorbing composites, electronic sensing, collapsible low-radar, cross-section antennas and many military applications. Research groups at Cornell University for example are attempting to coat cotton fabrics with nanoparticles of functional polymers that can reduce the near infrared signal of the fabric thus making it invisible to night-vision goggles in the dark. Commercially, Eeonyx Technologies of the US and Panipol of Finland have developed range of textiles mano-coated respectively with PPY and PAni conductive polymers. The starting substrate can be any fabric depending on the end-use (wovens, non-wovens, felts and knits of polyester, nylon, glass, quartz, spandex, polyolefins, and aramids) and is customized for desired electrical resistance, thickness, porosity, strength and stretchability etc. Depending on the base fabric, EeonTex fabrics for example, can possess surface resistance between 10 Ohm/sq and 10 billion Ohm/sq. Caption: Set-up for continuous RST application by Alexium These fabrics have found use in a wide range of commercial and military applications. One such fabric absorbs 40–50 % of microwave radiation it receives while allowing another 15 % to be transmitted. Just by applying this fabric to the exterior of an object will cut its radar cross-section by two-thirds. These Radar Absorbing Fabrics can also be used as composite-reinforcing material in applications such as turbine blades of low radar signature windmills. Such blades would then be nearly impossible to distinguish from airplanes on many radar systems. Electromagnetic shielding property of a PPY coated woven polyester twill fabric allows it to be used as artificial horizon, radar barrier for military aerospace industry. Thicker fabrics and foams are used in EMI suppression, crosstalk reduction, vibration dampening and static dissipation. Such fabrics can also provide static-free surfaces and can be used as clean room garments. Static decay on nano-coated fabric is reportedly 100 times faster than comparable carbon-coated products and there are no hot or cold spots. By using fabrics of varying thickness and coating it through, Eeonyx also produces resistive heater fabrics that have found diverse usage from hospital grade warming blankets, high-end all-weather boots, to color-changing camouflage vests for Special Forces applications. The whole surface of the fabric is conductive, allowing safe, efficient, uniform heating. Because the fabric is the conductor, there is nothing to break in these warming blankets, making them suitable for extreme conditions. Pressure sensing Piezoresistive fabrics are also resistive across distance (thickness) but the resistance changes under pressure (mechanical stress) through the material. When a physical object touches the fabric, the current pattern gets altered, sending precise data to the connected hardware about its velocity, size, dynamic movement, and so on. These materials are ideal for making pressure/bend or stretch sensors and have found wide applications in teaching, recreation, sports and medical industry. For example, a paintball course owner has built vests using the technology. Now players shoot reusable rubber balls at their opponents wearing vests made with Piezoresistive fabric. Real-time data get recorded as to who gets shot when and how often. No need for buying paintballs every day and no mess to cleanup. Specially-designed gloves are being used by a piano player to watch his fingertip movements on the computer screen—explaining the fine points of adagio versus allegretto. The piezoresistive fabric bedsheets in a healthcare facilities detecting “hot spots” and prevent bed sores development. A smart carpet installed in the homes of the elderly living alone, monitor the behavior pattern (with no invasion of privacy) of the elderly and warn the operator when a significant anomaly in behavior patterns is detected, for supervisory emergency care. Nanocoated functional fabric products possess interesting, useful properties and are being employed in an ever-increasing array of specialty applications. Scaling may be one of the major challenges for now as research groups try to move these technologies from lab to industry. It’s however a rapidly growing field and as the fundamental understanding would evolve, the accessibility of small and mid-sized companies to these nanotechnologies is also going to grow exponentially. ■ Dr Sanjay Gupta is Dean, School of Design at the GD Goenka University, Sohna, India ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Environmental Watch 13 steps to obtain an eco-label by Isha Tyagi and Dr Anita Rani In the eco-conscious textile and garment industry, an eco-label enables consumers to identify those products that are environmentally safe; that has been manufactured using eco-friendly materials and does not contain chemicals that are harmful to the user. An eco-label identifies a product that meets specified environmental performance criteria or standards, and is awarded by a third-party organization to products or services that are determined to meet the criteria or standards. Selecting an appropriate eco-label An appropriate eco-label for a company doesn’t mean it is right for another one. Companies can select the most suitable one for themselves based on buyer requirements, major export products, and ease of implementation. Buyer requirements These will vary from country to country and be influenced by consumer preferences. One must identify what eco-labels are preferred by the buyer and that may be acceptable in more than one of the manufacturers export markets. Major export products Eco-label certificates generally apply to single product lines only. In introducing eco-labeling, manufacturers may in the first instance wish to focus on their main export product as any loss in market share, as a result of not having an eco-label, may lead to ad verse financial impacts. Ease of implementation Eco-labels where the criteria can be more readily achieved and sustained should be selected. Eco-labels based on final product quality only may be easier to gain than those based on the full life cycle analysis which takes into consideration raw material use, environmental impacts of every stage of the manufacturing process (including wastewater characteristics, air pollution and solid waste disposal), worker health and the use of child labor, packaging, return of goods and so on. How to obtain an eco-label The basic 13 steps to obtain an eco-label are presented as follows: Step 1: Management commitment From the outset it is important that the senior factory management recognize the value of an eco-label and is committed to implementing the eco-labeling requirements. Understanding and commitment of top management is essential in: • Allocating appropriate human resources; • Encouraging the factory staff to implement the necessary changes in a timely fashion; • Providing the necessary financial resources for raw material substitution, testing and certification; • Seeking process optimization changes that benefit the factory; • Developing a quality control culture that is an integral requirement of achieving and maintaining any eco-label. 1 Management Commitment 2 Eco-label Selection 3 Factory Team 4 Eco-label Procedures 5 Procedures Diagram(s) 6 Conduct Audits 7 Develop Action Plan 8 Chemicals and Dyes Substitution 9 Process Optimisation 10 Verification 11 Quality Assurance System 12 Submit Application Answer any Queries 13 Award of Eco-label Certification 14 Annual Renewal Caption: A diagram showing the steps to obtain an eco-label Step 2: Selection of eco-label and product Line The following factors need to be considered in identifying which eco-label to obtain and what product line to start on: 1. Identifying buyer preferences on the type of eco-label. 2. Selecting the eco-label that is able to maximize market penetration in potentially a number of different countries. 3. Balancing market expectations with ease of implementation. 4. Identifying main export product lines and initiating eco-labeling on that product line where it will yield the greatest return. This may have to be balanced against the complexity of changes and at times it may be more appropriate to start with the least complicated product line to enable the factory team to gain the necessary experience and confidence. 5. Articles manufactured from the same raw material and being processed similarly can be certified at the same time. Multiple product lines will incur higher costs as each product line will have to be certified separately. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
DOW CORNING CORPORATION - XIAMETER ®
Environmental Watch Step 3: Establishing a factory eco-labeling implementation team Team members To implement the eco-labeling requirements, a factory team should be formed with senior members ideally being drawn from the following departments: The sales/marketing department, who can provide advice on customer eco-label requirements and advice customers on proposed changes, implement and optimize required changes to the process and raw material usage. Including relevant production heads will ensure changes are made in a timely manner without undue interference with production schedules. The quality control department to ensure quality control procedures are addressed and maintained. The purchase department to ensure raw materials (dyes, process chemicals etc.) that are procured comply with the eco-label requirements. The finance department to provide information on costs of current operations and to fully evaluate the costs and benefits of any proposed changes. Team responsibilities The general responsibilities of the Factory Team would include: conducting the chemical audit; identifying and implementing recommended options; monitoring progress; verifying the results of any changes made; and ensuring Quality Assurance of the product. There should be a team co-coordinator, possibly the Production or Quality Control Heads, whose responsibility will be to co-ordinate the different responsibilities and tasks. Step 4: Obtaining eco-label certifying procedures and application form For the selected eco-label, all necessary paperwork and background information should be requested from the certifying organization including: • A copy of the most recent application form. • A copy of the eco-label standards. • A copy of the most recent declaration of conformity. • A list of the certifying institutes that can carry out the required chemical analyses. • A copy of the eco-label renewal form (although it will not be required at this stage). Step 5: Preparing process flow diagram(s) An important task for the factory team is to prepare a process flow diagram for the selected product line(s). Process mapping will break down the operations into functional unit operations, each of which can be shown in terms of material inputs, outputs and losses. Developing the process flow diagram helps the factory team form a consensus about how the production process is organized and provides a focal point for identifying and prioritizing areas of concern and opportunities for process optimization. The final process flow diagram should clearly indicate: • Each relevant step showing the movement of the raw material through the manufacturing process; • All inputs to each process step, including chemicals, dyes, water and energy; • All outputs including solid and liquid waste generation; • All accessories used in the final product (such as buttons, zippers, elastic and cord). Step 6: Conducting audit of process chemicals and dyestuffs Textile manufacturing uses a diverse range of chemicals some of which are potentially hazardous (e.g. formaldehyde, pentachlorophenol, volatile compounds such as solvents, flame retardants and some dyestuffs). Eco-labels set standards that ban the use of certain chemicals and limit the concentrations of others. Using the process flow diagram, the audit is intended to identify chemicals and quantify the extent of their use in each of the process units. Emphasis is placed on identifying those substances that may not be in compliance with the standard. This is the most important step of the eco-labeling process since all further actions are based on the audit findings. Step 7: Action plan to phase out objectionable substances An Action Plan should be developed to address the results of the chemical audit. This will be essential when there are a number of substances to be phased out, and/or when there is a range of options for doing so. Actions may fall into two groups: Substitution requiring only minor modifications This step involves the substitution of the chemicals and dyes on the banned list, with others that are eco-friendly. This step may not require changes in the processing or the recipe. Substitution requiring major modification This step involves introducing modifications to any of the production lines or the recipes used as a result of the previous substitution step. Substitutions should be introduced in phases, which depending on the expertise available, may involve: Initial laboratory bench testing This provides a low cost mechanism for checking the feasibility of the suggested substitutions and/or process modifications. Caption: Many tests are involved during the procedure of obtaining an eco-label (Image source: Hohenstein Institute) Pilot scale tests Pilot scale tests of the preferred laboratory bench options under conditions resembling production scale. Production scale tests They fine-tune the pilot scale tests to full-scale production while maintaining optimum conditions. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
UCMTF - FRENCH ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS
Environmental Watch Step 8: Chemicals and dyes substitution Objectionable chemicals and dyes then need to be substituted with safer alternatives. Step 9: Process optimization In some cases, changes implemented may result in the use of higher cost chemicals and dyes. However the overall cost may be reduced as often, lesser amounts of better quality products are needed to maintain product quality. It is also possible that costs may be reduced by optimizing existing production techniques, both in the modified process and in downstream processes. Optimization is achieved by inspecting all recipes and procedures and identifying where excess raw materials are being used and where process steps can be reduced. Step 10: Verification and operating procedural changes Ongoing testing or verification, is required after any substitutions or process changes are made to ensure that the final fabric is in compliance with the standard. Of particularly importance has been the regular testing of: • pH. • Color fastness properties. • Free formaldehyde content. Step 11: Establishing a quality assurance system and preparation of quality manual The factory must ensure to the certifying institute that all products manufactured have the same properties as any test sample sent to the institute. The certifying institute can carry out random tests and persistent deviations will result in cancellation of the eco-label certificate. The factory should therefore operate and maintain an effective quality assurance system that must include the following: • Regular testing of all incoming raw materials to assess their suitability and minimize variations within the prescribed limits; • Round the clock process control checks on all processes with a scheduled frequency to minimize deviations from predetermined standard conditions; • Regular testing of the final article to provide assurance of quality. All items, all process control checkpoints and all analytical requirements for the final product, along with test methods to be followed, must be identified for routine monitoring. Frequency of these tests and the permissible working range should be decided jointly by the Production and Quality Department Heads. The Quality Control Department is expected to ensure strict adherence to periodical counterchecks and maintain proper records of all tests conducted. This will form an important basis and a demonstrative tool for the Declaration of Conformity required by the certifying institute. All of these activities must be reflected in the Quality Manual. For simplicity, the Quality Manual may be divided into various sections dealing with: • Dyes and pigments in use • Chemicals in use. • Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) for all items. • Processing sequence used. • Process control check points. • Quality parameters of the final product. • Test methods for each of the items. • Frequency at which each test needs to be conducted. • Eco-label requirements. • Mode of verification, in case of correction, if any. Step 12: Submitting application form, declaration of conformity and samples After all chemicals, dye and process changes have been implemented the Application Form should be completed (answer every question) and signed. Additional information as requested in the enclosure of the application form must be given to minimize the necessary tests and costs of the procedure. A completed and signed Declaration of Conformity should also be sent, as without it, the eco-label certification will not be issued. Representative samples of the production line and material safety data sheets for chemicals and dyes used in each stage of processing should be sent with the application. Sample requirements may change and hence should be checked with the concerned institute before sending in the application. The minimum sample size currently required by the certifying institute for testing are as follows: • In the case of a made-up garment: one complete article. • In the case of fabric, a full width sample of 0.5m length. • A specimen of all the accessories used, such as buttons, zips, labels etc. • For dyestuffs and pigments, where material safety data sheets are not available, it is advisable to send a sample of the darkest shade used (by dyeing or printing). Samples of • 5x30cm dimension are suitable. Step 13: Award of eco-label certification If the testing institute is satisfied that all necessary information has been provided and that the fabric samples submitted are of an acceptable quality, then the results and eco-label certificate will be forwarded to the applicant, usually after about two months. Delays will occur if: • The Application Form has not been satisfactorily completed and clarifications are sought; • Any dye, pigment or process chemical listed in the Application Form is not represented in a fabric sample; • Samples of all accessories (buttons, zips, cord, elastic etc.) are not submitted. • Any requests for clarification or additional samples must be responded to promptly by the factory. Applications will be rejected if the samples submitted do not meet the eco-label standard. ■ Isha Tyagi and Dr Anita Rani are PhD Scholar and Assistant Professor respectively at Department of Clothing and Textile of the G.B.Pant University of Agriculture and Technology, India ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
KORNIT DIGITAL LTD
Environmental Watch Sustainability gaining momentum with retailers’ awareness by Kelvin Yau Sustainability has been a buzzword in the textile and garment industry, especially in the past decade, and the industry has become aware of the possible adverse impact the industry may bring to the environment as well as the well-being of people. To assure their customers that their products are free of harmful substances, retailers and brands alike opt for “eco-labels” to give customers more confidence. Among those eco-labels available, Oeko-Tex 100 is one of the best-received standards by the Europe and the US markets. In a recent interview with ATA Journal, Dr Jean-Pierre Haug, Secretary General of Oeko-Tex Association, shared with us Oeko-Tex standard’s latest developments as well as his insights into the up-and-coming trends in sustainability issues. Also as the Chief Operating Officer of Testex AG, Swiss Textile Testing Institute, Dr Haug pointed out that the word “sustainability” dated back to 1713 in Germany. ATA: ATA Journal Dr Haug: Dr Jean-Pierre Haug, Secretary General of Oeko-Tex Association, and Chief Operating Officer of Testex AG, Swiss Textile Testing Institute ATA: How is the trend of sustainability developing in the textile and garment industry? Dr Haug: The issue of sustainability is getting more and more important with higher demand from the industry, especially after the Greenpeace campaign. But the acceptance of standard is still very limited. We are in the world where we are consuming more resources and energy than what the world can provide at the moment. To survive or sustain, we need to use them better and more efficiently. Specifically for the textile and garment industry, in every process, we have to ensure that we are using energy and materials in the most efficient way, while recycling and reusing the materials properly. ATA: The Oeko-Tex 100 has come to its 20th anniversary. Could you share with us Oeko-Tex system’s latest development, and how has it assisted the textile industry to grow? Dr Haug: I wouldn’t say Oeko-Tex is responsible for the growth of the textile industry. But what it has definitely helped is to clean the textile industry from certain chemicals which are not nice to be used. Actually it has been done in a very effective manner. When I started working at the Oeko-Tex Association nearly 20 years ago, we had found in a laboratory several times a year Pentachlorophenol (PCP) which is a very bad chemical to prevent the formation of mold on textiles. Now the problem has vanished – we find it very seldom these days. Caption: Dr Jean-Pierre Haug, Secretary General of Oeko-Tex Association, and Chief Operating Officer of Testex AG, Swiss Textile Testing Institute So instead of helping the industry grow, we have helped the industry to operate in a very efficient way in which they can get higher security about chemical safety of their products. What’s also very important is that Oeko-Tex has long been recognized by European companies, shops and retailers. Latest statistics reveal that in Germany, seven out of 10 people recognize Oeko-Tex, while in Switzerland, five out of 10 recognize it, which is very impressive. Nowadays, US consumers are also looking for Oeko-Tex in their products. Oeko-Tex label is also a good marketing tool to sell products. If a consumer likes both articles with equally competitive price, but don’t know what to choose, they may select the one which is Oeko-Tex certified. Also, those manufacturers with textile products ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Environmental Watch certified with Oeko-Tex will find it easier to sell their products in the European market. ATA: As you mentioned, Oeko-Tex has been recognized by the US and EU markets. What will be Oeko-Tex’s next step in its further development? Dr Haug: First of all, let me explain that Oeko-Tex 100 is a certification for textile products, while Oeko-Tex 1000 is for textile mills. In fact, Oeko-Tex 100 has been well introduced into the industry. Oeko-Tex 1000, on the other hand, still has lots of potentials. Oeko-Tex 100 has already issued 11,000 certificates, but currently Oeko-Tex 1000 has only issued 65 ones. In fact, Oeko-Tex 1000 ensures a healthy and safety production environment. So when we are talking about sustainability, then we should definitely have more Oeko-Tex 1000 certificates in the industry. Given the huge potential, there’s a lot we need to work on. ATA: What are the key challenges in promoting Oeko-Tex 1000? Dr Haug: The problem is that the retailers have only started recently to really look into sustainability. At the moment, more companies have chosen Oeko-Tex 100, but honestly, Oeko-Tex1000 is the most significant way to go for it. Pressure is another problem, as every certification costs money. I am not saying those companies not certified with Oeko-Tex 1000 are bad companies, as I am sure there are companies doing a good job but still are not certified. On the other hand, among the non-certified companies, there are those which care about nobody but profits, and they don’t take responsibility for the future. Besides, for Oeko-Tex 100 certification, applicants only have to submit the application form and samples, and we can carry out the certification without meeting them. The whole process is very straightforward and easy. But Oeko-Tex 1000 requires a mandatory audit for the first period of application, and companies have to prepare some information necessary for the application. However, I’m convinced that Oeko-Tex 100 and Oeko-Tex 1000 are very efficient systems of looking at the sustainability in the textile industry because of its consistence, transparency, and its focus solely on the textile industry. ■ AD: TAINING MACHINE INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Chemical & Auxiliaries Novel auxiliaries cut costs and increase productivity by Ian Holme Textile auxiliaries are used widely in textile wet processing and individually are based upon a chemical or a formulated chemical product that enables a wet processing operation to be carried out more effectively or may be essential if a particular effect is required. In the past, a dyeing recipe could contain, for example, a dispersing agent, a levelling agent, a sequestrant, and also a pH-buffering agent. However, the modern trend is for formulated liquid auxiliary products that are multifunctional and hence combine in the “one product, several functions” as well as being easy to dispense directly, rapidly, and accurately into the dyeing machine, often from an automated dispensing system connected to a bulk storage unit. Auxiliaries are particularly useful for post-dyeing operations to facilitate drastic shortening of otherwise lengthy washing off processes e.g. for removal of hydrolysed and unfixed reactive dyes from cellulosic fibres, yarns and fabrics. Clariant’s Leonil D-AIR liq Package dyeing and beam dyeing of fabric can be adversely affected by the presence of entrapped air within the yarn or fabric layers. This can lead to undyed spots within the packages or fabric beam. Clariant (Switzerland) have recently introduced a highly effective de-aerating agent, Leonil D-AIR liq, which exhibits a strong wetting and foam-suppressing power. Leonil D-AIR liq is free of silicone oil and has been developed for both continuous and discontinuous applications for all fibres and blends. This novel de-aerating agent can be used to facilitate the effective penetration of materials that are difficult to penetrate and is also suitable for application to grey fabrics. Prochimaica Novarese’s EASYWHITE Prochimica Novarese SpA (Italy) have introduced their EASYWHITE eco-friendly bleaching system. This utilises a new wetting / detergent / sequestering auxiliary product termed EASYWHITE AC / JET together with a hydrogen peroxide activator EASYWHITE ACTIV-N. This new activator has been shown to form a new complex molecule with peroxide which then allows cotton bleaching to be conducted at 80°C, around 15-20°C lower than traditional bleaching systems. In addition, this EASYWHITE bleaching system enables viscose / Lycra knitted fabric to be bleached at 60-70°C, compared with the more normal 80-90°C. The use of these two new auxiliaries from Prochimica Novarese SpA is claimed to yield savings in processing time of 20%, water cost savings of 5-10% and energy cost savings of 10-20%. The lower processing temperature enables bleaching to be carried out leaving the fabric with a softer handle. As a result, less softener needs to be applied and the fabric exhibits reduced pilling and less fibre damage, both significant advantages. Clariant’s Imerol BLUE liq A new all-in-one bleaching auxiliary from Clariant (Switzerland) is Imerol BLUE liq based on the exclusive Singulet Bleaching technology. Imerol BLUE liq in the Blue Magic Process is claimed to open up new perspectives for exhaust bleaching applications, decreasing the water consumption by up to 75% in pretreatment, because no rinsing is needed after bleaching. An important benefit of using Imerol BLUE liq is that the treated material exhibits very high absorbency, which is an essential prerequisite for obtaining excellent uniformity and reproducibility in repeat batches. This novel auxiliary enables both the effluent loading and volume to decrease. In practice, the chemical oxygen demand (COD), biological oxygen demand (BOD) and total dissolved solids (TDS) are decreased by using Imerol BLUE liq which is itself both alkylphenol ethylene oxide-free (APEO-free) and free from phosphorus. Caption: Comparison between classical bleaching process and that with Clariant’s Imerol BLUE liq (Image source: Clariant) The high temperature exhaust dyeing of polyester yarns and fabrics can give rise to serious problems caused by the migration of oligomers, such as cyclic trimers, out of the fibers. During cooling of the dyebath prior to draining the oligomers can deposit on the surfaces of the fibres, or on the interior surfaces of the dyeing machinery. This creates the problems of white powder deposits leading to dulling of yarns or fabrics and machines. In addition, oligomer deposits on machine guides during subsequent yarn winding / twisting operations can lead to increased friction causing high tension build up reflected by uneven packages and frequent end breaks. Also oligomer deposits must be removed by appropriate ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Chemical & Auxiliaries cleaning procedures that are costly, time-consuming and which decrease the overall efficiency of processing. Sarex’s Eliminator GLO & Reducon ACD Conc Sarex Chemicals (India) has introduced a novel auxiliary product which has been carefully formulated to resolve the issue of oligomers in polyester dyeing. Eliminator GLO from Sarex Chemicals is a unique auxiliary formulation which has been designed to keep the oligomers released from polyester fibres in the disperse form so that they may be easily drained off with the dyebath. Eliminator GLO thus prevents the redeposition of the oligomers onto the machine parts or the packages and also helps to keep the dyeing machine clean. Used at 1.5-3 g/l Eliminator GLO can be applied with the disperse dyestuffs and other auxiliaries and it can also be used separately for machine cleaning where stubborn deposits of oligomers, disperse dyes and other impurities need to be removed. Alkaline reduction clearing of medium-heavy depths of colour on polyester have traditionally used caustic soda together with sodium dithionite (hydrosulfite). However, this can give a high pollution load in the effluent and the alkalinity can give rise to shade changes where alkali-sensitive disperse dyestuffs are present. Oxy Group’s SPX-50 An innovative one-shot multifunctional auxiliary is SPX-50 which was exhibited at ITMA 2011 in Barcelona for the first time by the Oxy Group (Belgium). SPX-50 is described as an intelligent product that exhibits many different functions. This chemically-engineered formulation can be used as a detergent, peroxide stabiliser, dispersing agent, humectant, antifoam, lubricant and degreasing agent. In addition, SPX-50 can be used as a levelling agent in acid or reactive dyeings. SPX-50 can be used with reactive, direct, acid, disperse and indigoid dyestuffs. Commercial trials using SPX-50 have established significant cost savings in terms of water, energy and chemical consumption. Another benefit of using SPX-50 is claimed to be that it also allows lower temperatures to be used in scouring, bleaching and washing operations. Huntsman’s Eriopon LT Huntsman Textile Effects (Singapore) has introduced Eriopon LT for use with its innovative Avitera SE polyreactive dyestuffs. Eriopon LT is a nonionic / slightly cationic product specially formulated to be stable in hard water and resistant to the alkali and electrolytes encountered when washing off reactive dyes. Compared with the conventional use of six or more soaping / rinsing baths, the use of Eriopon LT ensures that high colour fastness to washing is achieved, using only three clearing cycles and with no overflow rinsing. Thus, the wash-off process is considerably shortened the saving time, water and energy. Eriopon LT also prevents back-staining by retaining hydrolysed reactive dyestuffs in the clearing bath. ■ AD: TAI HO SHING KNITTING MACHINERY CO., LTD ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Nonwovens / Technical Textiles Multi-disciplinary support boosts protective textiles by Seshadri Ramkumar Protective textiles are important and somewhat narrow segment of the technical textiles sector industry. A major share of the protective textiles industry serves national defense, and hence performance requirements and procurement policies can be complicated. However, major positive aspects of this segment are its importance to the defense of nations and the huge procurement budget associated with protective textiles. Protective textiles cater for many different segments starting from the banal antimicrobial fabrics to the high-end ballistic protective textiles, chemical, biological and nuclear protective materials. Developments are taking place rapidly in this sector with the utilization of new manufacturing methods such as nonwovens and hybrid composite technology, with the help of burgeoning technologies such as nano science and involving multiple disciplines ranging from chemistry to biology. Some of the important aspects of the highly specialized protective sector are: (1) requirement of superior performance standards, (2) adhering to the regulatory requirements, and (3) careful quality standards from production to delivery. Although cost is an important and integral component of success in this sector, given that the products of the protective textiles market are life-saving, cost may not occupy the first bench and it is the performance characteristics that will determine the fate and success of companies in this sector. Some developments of interest The US is the world’s leading spender in both research and development, and procurement of defense products. The US Department of Defense is constantly looking for new products such as chemical and biological protective suits, lightweight soft and hard body armors such as ballistic shield and helmets that can sense and shield soldiers, to name a few. Dr James Zheng of the Protective Executive Office-Soldier of the US Army in the recent international conference organized by the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) has highlighted the US Department of Defense’s priority in developing next-generation antiballistic protective materials for soldier. Accordingly, one of the priorities is to reduce the weight of ballistic protective materials without sacrificing protection and performance. Dr Zheng indicated that the ideal objective for weight reduction is 15% from the current level. New fiber developments are also looked into such as biomimetic methods to develop novel antiballistic fibers and new methods of characterization and evaluation of ballistic characteristics of fibrous materials are also considered by the US Department of Defense. Many industries such as DSM, Honeywell, DuPont, GenTex, and ArmorSource, to name a few are working towards the development of next-generation antiballistic materials. Caption: Dr James Zheng spoke on new generation antiballistic protective materials for soldiers at the recent AATCC international conference Advanced product in market The research and development in the defense-industrial complex is predominantly supported by governments. Many research projects that have been funded by the US Department of Defense have transformative impact in other sections of society. Recently, two products that are in the market came out of the support for their fundamental research activity by the US government. A military decontamination wipe, Fibertect which is currently marketed by Chantilly, VA-based First Line Technology, LLC and the Reactive Surface Treatment (RST) technology, which is commercialized by the Alexium International Group are good examples of federally supported basic research that have led to commercialization. According to Alexium International Group, the RST was developed earlier on by the US Air Force Research Laboratory, and the technology helps the attachment of nano particles and other functional groups to enable water proofing, oil proofing and antimicrobial characteristics to materials like fabrics. Alexium’s Cleanshell treatment protects the soldiers from chemical agents. Most recently, this company has secured a US Army supply ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Nonwovens / Technical Textiles agreement. Accordingly, Alexium will supply US Natick Soldier System Centre with about 600 meters of materials that have Alexium’s Cleanshell repellant technology. In addition, Alexium’s surface treatment on nylon fabrics provides flame retardant capability to nylon fabrics that find applications in defense and industrial markets. Fibertect decontamination wipe is a story of good collaboration among US Department of Defense, University and industry. The fundamental research on Fibertect was carried out at Texas Tech University, the US and was funded by the US Army. This research has resulted in the commercialization of non-particulate flexible decontamination wipe by a small business company, First Line Technology, LLC., the US. The Fibertect fabric technology comes in different forms and shapes such as wipes and mitts. The basic fabric is manufactured in Waco, Texas by Hobbs Bonded Fibers-a needlepunching company. The fabric is converted to end-user friendly forms by First Line Technology and it is packaged and marketed by them. Fibertect technology provides a solution for an important requirement of the US Department of Defense and delivers a wipe that can be used on soldier’s skin and other sensitive military equipment. NATO sponsors protective textiles fabrics symposium Equally, European and NATO countries are also spending huge amounts in research and development efforts towards developing next-generation protective clothing. Recently, a NATO Advanced Study Institute organized a symposium on Defense Related Intelligent Textiles and Clothing for Ballistic and NBC (Nuclear, Biological, Chemical) Protection in Split, Croatia under the leaderships of Professor Paul Kiekens, University of Ghent, Belgium, Dr. Rene Rossi of EMPA, Switzerland and Professor Ana Marija Grancaric, University of Zagreb, Croatia. This leading forum brought together leading scientists from the US, Canada, The Netherlands, Germany, Switzerland, Croatia, Slovenia, Egypt and Finland to deliberate cutting- edge advances in the field of protective clothing. It is evident from this symposium that NATO and European countries are in line with the US with regard to the priorities concerning defense protection. Smarter and light-weight materials such as less bulky protective clothing have become the need of the hour. In this regard, synthetic fibers such as Kevlar, Spectra, Twaron, Dyneema, catalytic materials such as metal oxides etc. play important roles in the development of soft and hard armors and ChemBio fabrics with regard to protection from nerve chemical agents and toxic industry chemicals, US defense is looking into catalytic and adsorptive materials such as activated carbon, nano metal oxides, polyoxometalates, etc., in the development of next-generation ChemBio suits. With regard to biological protection, materials ranging from biological enzymes to copper oxides, silver, quaternary ammonium salts and halamines are being looked into. Caption: The soldier in the image applies Fibertect wipe on his partner to detoxify toxic chemicals (Image source: First Line Technology, LLC, Chantilly, VA, the US) In the area of chemical and biological protection, reduction in the weight of ChemBio suits is a high priority research task for the US government. New technologies and production methods are evaluated to reduce the bulk of ChemBio suits by cutting down the percentage of activated carbon in the current suits. One method is to utilize nanofibers as an adsorptive medium to adsorb off-gassing vapors from toxic chemicals and nerve agents. Although, this technology is feasible with regards to science and technology, producing nanofibers economically at large scale level limits the immediate application of nanofibers. Nanofiber webs because of their high surface area and mass to volume ratio create ample interest in the defense industry and academia to be used as adsorptive and protective medium. Different methods of nanofibers production such as needle electrospinning, needleless electrospinning and centrifugal methods are currently in practice to develop nanofibers for application in the field in defense and industrial sectors. Nanofibers can also be functionalized with enzymes and metal oxides such as ZnO, TiO2 and MnO to provide necessary catalytic activity to have chemical reactivity to certain toxins. These materials are smart to some extent and are commonly referred to as self-cleaning or self-detoxifying protective materials. Way forward As the important aspect of the protective textiles sector is to save the lives of the end-users such as warfighters and first responders, functionality and performance enhancements should be clearly looked into by the stake holders in the industry. With regard to the application of protective textiles in war theaters, textile and allied industries should work towards fulfilling the requirements of soldiers in the war field and emergency personnel in domestic theaters. In this regard, weight reduction of protective suits and antiballistic materials without comprising safety is an important issue. Textile materials that can not only shield the soldiers from multiple threats but also sense them early on will be an important requirement in the current scenario. In other words, textile materials such as phase change materials that can sense and adapt to the threat environments are essential. More important, lightweight active protective materials that can both sense and shield are required in the near future. It will be more useful if the materials are smart to simulate the active threat scenarios and then sense and shield. Multiple disciplines such as information technology, materials and mechanical engineering, chemistry and biology are required to solve complex problems in the development of agile and smart next-generation protective textile materials. ■ Seshadri Ramkumar is Manager of Nonwovens & Advanced Materials Laboratory, Texas Tech University, the US ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
China Report “The next China” is still China by Kelvin Yau Despite facing challenges of spiraling wages and labor shortage, China’s significantly influential position in textile and garment production will remain invincible, because of its time-honored reliability in delivery lead-time, its skilled labor pool, and its sophisticated infrastructure, according to experts specializing in garment and footwear sourcing at the recent Prime Source Forum held in Hong Kong. “Our Chinese suppliers are eager to invest in new machinery and technology to make their work better, and they can meet our requirements, while understanding the rationales behind how we Italians work. And the most important of all is that Chinese-made products are fairly priced and delivered on time,” noted Alessandra Cocchi, Managing Director of EastMax Fashion Ltd, the buying office of a renowned Italian fashion house. She added that Chinese manufacturers have the ability and technique to execute complicated designs. “When it comes to complicated products and design styles, and high-end garments, there is no expertise elsewhere like China at the moment. Other countries are relatively young; and comparing with other countries that could produce similar products, China’s production cost is still appealing to us.” Caption: The eagerness to invest in new machinery is one thing that maintains China’s significant role in the global textile and garment industry (Image source: Jiangsu Zhongheng Dyeing and Finishing Co Ltd) “Delivery lead-time is a determining factor in the fashion industry. The infrastructure is very good in China, where most raw materials can be delivered on time. And extending delivery lead-time to get a cheaper price just doesn’t work in the fashion industry. The speed to the market is much more important than price itself,” said David Hampson, Country Manager of The Jones Group, a designer and marketer of brands such as Nine West, which has four decades of experience in the footwear industry. Challenges faced by China In discussing the next country that could possibly replace China’s position in terms of its significant influence in the global textile, garment and footwear industries from the sourcing perspective, industry experts at the forum unanimously concurred that “the next China” is China. Nevertheless, according to Hui Jiang, the Vice President of the China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Textiles (CCCT), China is faced with internal and external challenges. “Internally, China’s costs of raw materials and labor are much higher than that in other emerging countries, and its energy price has been growing at a pace faster than that in the developed countries,” he said. Also, China’s overcapacity in the textile sector, the appreciating renminbi and the rising domestic costs are also making Chinese businesses less competitive in the global market, said Mr Hui, not to mention the country’s insufficiency in innovation and design, lack of its own indigenous brands and weakening price competitiveness. In view of the labor shortage problem in China, the CCCT Vice President said the Chinese textile and garment industry should consider relocating itself to less developed yet more densely populated areas. “Workers will no longer suffer from homesickness,” he said. Caption: Industry experts speak on China’s challenges and opportunities at Prime Source Forum 2012 “What is to blame for lack of competitiveness of Chinese companies in the global market is neither the quality nor the variety of products, but the disorderly competition among Chinese companies,” Mr Hui said, stressing the importance of developing strategic partnership among companies, and restructuring in the textile and garment sector. When everyone is talking about cutting costs, industry experts at Prime Source Forum suggested alternative solutions to stay competitive. The first thing to do is to change the mindset about cost. China’s cheap factories are gone, but this has provided a great opportunity for the country. “Labor shortage and rising labor cost are the two major factors for the UK to drive improvement in productivity. Right now, China has the opportunity to improve its productivity and profitability, and to reduce its lead-time. All these problems are fantastic opportunities for the footwear industry and apparel industry alike,” stated Mr Hampson. ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
DORNIER MACHINERY (SHANGHAI) CO., LTD
China Report Men’s clothing industry of Huizhou: The road towards brand upgrade Huizhou (惠州) is a city is located in the southeast part of Guangdong Province (廣東省) and borders with Shenzhen (深圳) and Hong Kong (香港). It belongs to the Pearl River Delta Economic Zone (珠三角經濟區). The city governs two districts, three counties and two national development areas. It owns the land area 11,200 sq. km and the sea area 4,520 sq. km. The permanent residents in the city are 4.6 million. In 2011, Huizhou realized GDP RMB 209.73 billion, tax income RMB 73.71 billion and investment on fixed assets RMB 100.5 billion. The economic output and financial strength of Huizhou ranked sixth in Guangdong Province (廣東省). In recent years, Huizhou aims at developing electronic information, petrochemical, textile and garment, auto parts, building materials and modern service industry. In addition, it has established a leading industrial clusters and unique regional brands. As a result of the outstanding performance of men’s clothing industry, Huicheng District (惠城區) in Huizhou was entitled to “China Men’s Clothing Town” by China Textile Industry Association (中國紡織工業聯合會) in 2004. Establish the leading men’s clothing industry At the beginning of China reform and open-up in 1978, the textile and garment industry of Huizhou developed rapidly by virtue of neighboring Hong Kong and Macau (澳門) convenient transportation and sufficient workforce. Many investors from Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan (臺灣) set up plants in Huizhou over the last thirty years, including Jeanswest (真維斯), one of the large-scale garment enterprises. A large number of medium and small-scale private garment enterprises also boomed here. Nowadays, a certain scale of textile and garment industrial cluster has already formed in Huizhou, which centered at Huicheng District, characterized in men’s clothing and the investment comes from Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan. Caption: Textile and garment industry is one of the most important economic support industries of Huizhou City By the end of 2010, the city has established around 3,000 textile and garment enterprises, with over 180,000 employees, manufacturing 360 million pieces of clothing each year. In Huizhou District alone, there are 2,300 textile and garment enterprises and produced 250 million pieces including 200 million pieces of men’s clothing each year. The annual sales are over RMB 10 billion. Caption: China headquarters of Jeanswest is situated in Huicheng District, Huizhou City “The total output of men’s clothing accounts for over 60% of the city. The products are mainly men’s shirts, suits and casual wear. This is attributed to the professional men’s clothing manufacturing enterprises in the city, such as Virtue (富紳), Lomren (老銘人), Velly (威利), Sizhouta (泗洲塔),” said Liao Zhengqiang (廖鎮強), Secretary-General of Textile and Garment Association of Huizhou (惠州市紡織服裝協會秘書長). According to the data of the Association, the real output value of the city’s textile and garment industry was RMB 16.4 billion in 2011, increasing by 9.9% compared to the previous year. While the export of textile products was US$ 1.357 billion, increasing by 23%, covering 5.9% of the total output of the city. The textile and garment products were mainly sold in Hong Kong, Europe and USA, Canada, South Africa, Middle East etc. The textile and garment industry has been listed as one of major economic sectors of Huizhou. The development of garment manufacturing industry encourages the formation and improvement of local industrial chain. At present, the textile and garment industry of Huizhou has formed a whole industrial chain covering spinning, weaving, printing and dyeing, accessory, parts, design, production and sale. The leading garment enterprises such as Virtue, Jeanswest, Lomren, Velley have owned the internationally advanced 3D automatic design, make-up, cutting CAD systems, and high-grade shirt and suit production lines, shaping machines, open-ended spinning, color automatic printing and dyeing machines and other production equipment imported from France, Italy and Japan. These machines ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITED
China Report shorten the production cycle and improve production flexibility and competition strength. Seek for transformation and upgrade Though being granted the title of “China Men’s Clothing Town”, Huicheng District has not formed its brand advantage in nearly 30-year development under the restriction of technology, capital and operation mechanism. “Our garment enterprises mainly make OEM business and are lack of exclusive brands, especially well-known brands in China.” Secretary-General Liao said. The governmental website of Huizhou indicates that by the end of 2011, Huizhou possessed 100 registered trademarks for garments, including two well-known trademarks of China (Virtue and Lomren) and other four famous trademarks of Guangdong Province. The city also possessed a brand product of China (VIRTUE shirt), four brand products of Guangdong Province and six famous products of Huizhou. In fact, these data is not very outstanding when it’s compared in the basis of 3,000 enterprises. “Many enterprises consider that they could operate well by OEM. Establishment of any brand requires channel and long-term investment and most enterprises are not willing to bear this risk. ” Liao said. “Jeanswest (China headquarters at Huicheng District, Huizhou and VIRTUE are the brands that people are familiar,” Liao said. He was proud when he talked about these two brands though he was unsatisfied with the current situation of local garment enterprises establishing their own brands. In fact, Sumlong (聖馬龍) men’s clothing series, Yizhichun (衣之純) casual garments, Velly suits, Naqi (納奇) men’s clothing, Sizhouta trousers have certain reputation in South China. Jeanswest is not strange to domestic consumers of China. This casual garment brand was originated from Australia and formally entered the domestic market of China in 1993 after it was purchased by Hong Kong Early Light Group (香港旭日集團). The company has established 2,800 monopolized shops in 20 provinces of China now and Jeanswest has become one of top ten casual garment brands. Caption: The brand Garment Station of VIRTUE created the unique marketing mode Liao said that it may be more important that Jeanswest has selected Huizhou as its standing point for entering the domestic market of China. China headquarters and its manufacture plant as well as a trading company of Jeanswest are located in Huizhou. This fuels development of local textile and garment industry. Virtue men’s clothing, established in 1990, is an original enterprise based in Huizhou and has become a name brand of China. From its major product “Virtue shirt” to now suits, trousers and T-shirts, Virtue has obtained its position in the market of men’s suits and commercial and casual garments after 20-year efforts. Virtue is one of export enterprises with their own brands. It also manufactures OEM products for domestic large-scale enterprises and international famous garment enterprises. Caption: The general standard of Huizhou City for knitted mercerized cotton industry improves competition strength At the current men’s clothing market, the price advantage is reducing, and the brand advantage is becoming more and more important. Therefore, the textile industry of Huizhou aiming at men’s clothing sector has noticed to its present situation of less brands, weak bran operation and low market share. Different with the traditional marketplace, the garments in the “Garment Station” (衣站) shall be first considered size, and then price, style and color in order. “For customers, this mode avoids lack of the size when they determine color and style; for us, it is unnecessary to select and distribute goods and the inventory of garments can be met. The quantity and category of goods that can be arranged in the same marketplace will be remarkably improved. ” Wang said. The brand of Garment Station is marketed by combination of network and actual goods, and the market feedback is good. The development plan of the textile and garment industry of Huizhou for the “12th Five-year Period” 1. Take garment as a leading sector, mainly develop the upper industries such as chemical fiber’ s raw materials, garment’s fabrics and form a complete industrial chain; 2. Promote construction of “China Men’s Clothing Town”, develop the exhibition industry, accessory industry, information industry and logistics industry relating to men’s clothing, and build up Huizhou City as the center of men’s clothing brands and designers; 3. Make processing technologies, equipment technologies, process and environmental protection technologies, information technologies advanced in region, China or the world; major enterprises and products are internationally leading, and significantly improve brand reputation and competition strength; 4. Further strengthen the leading position of mercerized cotton industry in China, improve the scale of knitted industry, woolen industry and woven garment industry, and promote development of processing and after-finishing processing of special textile raw materials. (Continued on p90) ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
THE HONG KONG RESEARCH INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL (HKRITA)
Retail Scene Universal transformation: Spring/Summer 2013 SPINEXPO has recently launched its Spring/Summer 2013 which aims to stride forward and explore the world and beyond into new unchartered territory to get inspiration. It advocates transforming ourselves and our world on a universal scale, including four themes, namely cosmic transformation, aquatic transformation, cultural transformation, and nomadic transformation. Cosmic transformation Reaching out into space, harnessing the lights of stars, the moon and planets to create an element of sci-fi and cultural futurism. Nomadic transformation Inspired by the earth and what we can create from what the earth offers, travelling the globe to discover surviving traditions and obscure cultures, maintaining the artisan. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Retail Scene Aquatic transformation Exploring deep into the ocean, into an underwater world of darkness punctuated by bright, unusual forms reflecting light and movement. Cultural transformation Immersing oneself in the ideals and beauty of the art world, from performance to painting and literature, cultural influences offer delicacy, subtlety and refined elegance. Source: SPINEXPO ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Retail Scene Armani ties up with Indian Genesis Luxury The Armani Group announce that from April 20, it will be entering into a partnership with Genesis Luxury Fashion Pvt. Ltd. in India to expand its operations there. Genesis Luxury will be Armani’s exclusive partner in the country for the Giorgio Armani, Emporio Armani and AJ Armani Jeans brands. The Armani Group, with Genesis Luxury, intends to grow its retail and wholesale networks in India to offer the Armani brand portfolio to a wider audience through freestanding, department and specialty stores. At present the Armani retail network in India consists of one Giorgio Armani boutique in New Delhi, one Emporio Armani store in New Delhi and one in Mumbai. These existing stores will be taken over by Genesis Luxury and over the next five years Armani and Genesis Luxury plan to open around 20 freestanding monobrand stores in major cities such as Chennai, Bangalore and Kolkatta. Gucci safeguards Korean historic artworks Gucci announced a five-year sponsorship agreement with National Trust Korea (NTK) designed to preserve traditional Korean heritage, at the opening ceremony of Gucci’s special archival exhibit at the Korea Furniture Museum, entitled “Timeless Touch of Craftsmanship: Korean Heritage Meets 91 Years of Gucci Archive.” Gucci will support the NTK, for five years through a total donation of KRW 500 million. The donation will be used for NTK projects that focus on preservation of historical Korean sites and cultural resources in Korea. As a brand with over 90 years of heritage, Gucci is dedicated to preserving significant historic artworks and cultural legacies for future generations. Gucci and NTK share the same vision for cultural heritage, and the NTK is the perfect organization to translate donation into real help for preserving Korean heritage. “Gucci and National Trust Korea believe in the importance of cultural history, and I am honored that Gucci can take a part in preserving Korea’s beautiful traditional heritage. Respecting local heritage is fundamental to Gucci, a brand that has itself been sustained thanks to the impeccable craftsmanship of our artisans across generations in Italy,” said Patrizio di Marco, Gucci President and CEO. “It has been 14 years since we first opened direct business in Korea and today it has become one of our most important markets: thus we are pleased to make this commitment that will hopefully inspire future generations,” di Marco continued. “Korea is an essential market for Gucci,” continued di Marco, “We are dedicated not only to serving our sophisticated Korean customers with exclusive services and products, but also to benefiting the Korean community though on-going social investments.” This announcement came in conjunction with the opening ceremony for Gucci’s three week special exhibit with the Korea Furniture Museum (KOFUM) under the theme of “Timeless Touch of Craftsmanship: Korean Heritage Meets 91 Years of Gucci Archive.” For the exhibit, Gucci brought 70 pieces from its archive located at the Gucci Museo in Florence, Italy, for the first time to Korea. VF Corp divests stake in John Varvatos to Lion Capital The owners of John Varvatos Enterprises Inc, VF Sportswear, Inc, a subsidiary of VF Corporation, and John Varvatos, announced that they have completed the sale of the majority ownership interest in the company to Lion Capital LLP, with Mr Varvatos retaining an ownership position. Terms were not disclosed. John Varvatos launched his namesake brand in 2000 with a collection of tailored clothing and sportswear, and it now represents an entire men’s lifestyle collection that includes footwear, bags, belts, eyewear, limited-edition watches and men’s fragrances, as well as the younger, edgier John Varvatos Star USA Collection and Converse by John Varvatos. The John Varvatos brand was added to VF Corporation’s portfolio in conjunction with its 2003 acquisition of the Nautica brand. Lion Capital will continue to operate the business as John Varvatos Enterprises, Inc., headquartered in New York City. Mr Varvatos will maintain his role as Chairman and Chief Creative Officer. Zara opens a New York City store Zara, the Inditex Group’s fashion retailer, inaugurated a New York City store showcasing Zara’s revamped architecture and interior design scheme. The establishment, in the Tishman Building (666 Fifth Avenue, at the intersection of 52nd Street), enjoys a unique location at the heart of one of the world’s prime shopping destinations. The shop’s layout reflects an innovative approach to interior design that puts Zara fashions at center stage. Caption: Zara’s New York City store The new Fifth Avenue Zara is the retailer’s largest outlet in the United States, encompassing more than 3,000 square metres spread over three floors. The shop opens onto Fifth Avenue and 52nd Street with five display windows and a façade spanning more than 23 metres. The store will employ 450 people. The new store image is based on four principles: beauty, clarity, functionality and sustainability. The store design’s primary emphasizes simplicity as part of the retailer’s ongoing mission to facilitate direct contact with customers. In each of the three floors, the store is organized around two long corridors or “catwalks” that lead to intimate boutique-like cubes on each side. Each space showcases a specific collection. ■ For the most updated news, please go to www.AdsaleATA.com ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
X-RITE ASIA PACIFIC LIMITED
Show Watcher Turkey’s participation at APLF The leather and fashion trade fairs Materials, Manufacturing & Technology (MM&T) and Fashion Access saw approximately 1,800 exhibitors in Hong Kong. Caption: Visitors at APLF on the lookout for new products A noteworthy activity in MM&T this year was the participation of Turkey as focus country. The Turkish pavilion featured over 60 Turkish tanners. Lemi Tolunay, Chairman of the Istanbul Leather and Leather Products Exporters Association, remarked that “fairs and other promotional activities are crucial for expanding Turkish market share in Asia, particularly China and Hong Kong. Being focus country at MM&T creates a positive effect on developing trade relations between Turkey and the whole of Asia.” Over 180 cotton professionals attracted to event in Qingdao Over 180 representatives of 97 renowned cotton textile enterprises from China, Hong Kong and Southeast Asia recently attended the fourth COTTON USA Cotton School in Qingdao, Shandong, China. During the event, lectures, panel discussions and interactive sessions were organized to help enterprises understand more about the US cotton industry and system in terms of planting, production, classification, trade, contract sanctity and purchase of raw cotton. Particularly, cotton professionals from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), the American Cotton Shippers’ Association (ACSA), the National Cotton Council of America, the America’s Cotton Marketing Cooperatives (AMCOT), the Supima Association of America and the Cotton Incorporated delivered presentations on such topics as the US cotton classification system, growing regions, standard purchase procedures, contract performance and risk management. Besides, at the two-day event, representatives from both the China Cotton Association and the China National Textile and Apparel Council made speeches on the cotton and textile industrial development situations in China. Panel discussions were also held for industry professionals to exchange ideas about the current status of the global, Chinese and US cotton and textile industries. Karin Malmstrom, Director of CCI China, said at the event: “The US is a long-term partner with China for providing high quality cotton to satisfy import requirements. For enterprises, good, reliable raw materials not only can fundamentally ensure high-quality products, but also are essential to strengthening core competitiveness. As global cotton textile industries have experienced structural changes during 2010 and 2011 along with the unprecedented fluctuation of cotton prices, soaring labor costs and appreciation of the renminbi, Chinese textile enterprises continue to cope with great challenges from both domestic and overseas markets. CCI also organized a Qingdao Roadshow within the meeting area to promote its current theme in China, “COTTON USA: Naturally Color Your World”, and on display was a colorful video and photo exhibition featuring the campaign’s signature elements including the American Quilt, modeling competition and nationwide roadshow. Caption: The cotton market has reached a comparatively reasonable level, notes Karin Malmstrom at the fourth COTTON USA Cotton School CCI has convened the COTTON USA Cotton School in China every two years since 2006, to enable the cotton textile enterprises in China and Southeast Asia to develop a further understanding of the US cotton industry. Dornbirn-MFC to be held in September The 51st Dornbirn Man-Made Fibers Congress (Dornbirn-MFC) will be held during September 2012 in Austria. The future challenges are already accounted for in the choice of main themes for 2012 showing a more accentuated character of innovation and relevance. As introduced by the organizer, the plenary session will start on the opening day with a lecture including a discussion on the topic: “Mobility 2050 – Trends an Scenarios” held by the Zukunftsinstitut Kelkheim (Germany), followed by a study of the Hochschule Niederrhein / Germany together with a Consultant Company from Germany on the topic “Effects of a Sustainable Procurement of Textiles and Garments on the Purchase Behaviour of Consumers”. With more than 30 individual presentations during all 2.5 days “Fiber Innovations (Sustainability)” is leading, followed by some 20 on “Fibers and Textiles in Automotive (Mobility)” due to a strong participation of car manufacturers and their suppliers. The topics “Unconventional Fiber Applications” with more than 15 presentations, “Man-made Fibers for Environmental Protection”, “Medical Applications” and “Technical Nonwovens (Filtration, Membranes)” will be represented with some 10 presentations each as well as “EU Research Projects”. The organizer notes the strong Japanese delegation, consisting of representatives from leading fiber manufacturers will present its newest developments in the various main themes. ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
YEONG GUAN HAUR INDUSTRIAL LTD
Show Watcher China Interdye 2012: more diversified and segmented by Staff Reporters The 12th edition of China International Dye Industry, Pigments and Textile Chemicals Exhibition (China Interdye) was held during April 11-13 in Shanghai World Expo Exhibition & Convention Center. Compared with the fair's last edition, exhibits seen at China Interdye 2012 were more diverse and segmented, covering various advanced eco-friendly dye, organic pigments and intermediates. One of the show’s highlights was the new “Auxiliary, Environmental Protection & Printing Equipment and Instruments Zone”. According to the organizers, on the exhibition space of about 30,000 sqm, some 500 exhibitors had presented their cutting-edge products. About 83% of them are producers of dyestuffs and organic pigment, and the rest are suppliers of auxiliary and printing equipment. Overseas and domestic leading enterprises, including DyStar, BASF, Tanatex, Huntsman, Yorkshire, Clariant, Lamberti, Bozzetto, Rudolf, M.Dohmen, Lonsen, Runtu, Jihua Group, Yabang, Hwalle, Transfar, Dymatic, Anoky, Meilida and JECO exhibited their products at the fair. Besides, while four pavilions of India, Korea, Taiwan and Tianjing province have enlarged their exhibition scale this year, many other overseas enterprises from Holland, Spain, Singapore and the UK participated in the fair for the first time, say the organizers. Professional seminars were concurrently held by the China Dyeing and Printing Industry Association, the China Wool Textile Industry Association, the China Knitting Industry Association, the China Bast and Leaf Fibers Textile Association, the Ink Branch of the China Daily-used Chemical Industry Association, the Masterbatches Speciality Committee and the Textile Printing Auxiliaries Speciality Committee of China Dyestuff Industry Association (CDIA). China Interdye 2012 was organized by the CDIA, the China Dyeing and Printing Association, the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade, the Shanghai Sub-Council and the China Chamber of International Commerce Shanghai Chamber of Commerce, and co-organized by the Shanghai International Exhibition Service Co. Ltd. Some exhibitors of China Interdye 2012 Clariant: products respond to environmental challenges Clariant exhibited a series of its innovative products under the subject of “Clariant, representing excellent performances by continuous innovation”. The company provides products, processes and technologies which respond to environmental challenges. For example, the foam ecological finishing technology developed by Clariant has set a new standard for wash-and-wear finishing process. The new product combination based on foam application process can improve fabric quality, shorten production process, save water, power and time while meeting the requirements for environmental protection in various aspects, says Clariant. Caption: Clariant promotes innovation The new all-in-one bleaching assistant is essential to the process of Blue Magic. With economic and ecological advantages on the basis of Imerol Blue Liquid, it can save 50% water and 40% energy and shorten the processing time by half. In addition to more whiteness, the process can enhance productivity, simplify treatment process, and improve uniformity and dyeing performance. The products are suitable for all processes in the textile industrial chain, including the assistants applicable for bobbin dyeing and beam dyeing, migration inhibitor for continual dyeing and disperse dyes with optimal wet fastness. For example, Solusoft SIH is a hydrophilic organic silicon micro-emulsion, which has supreme soft handle and is suitable for all kinds of fibers, according to Clariant. To cope with the increasing demand from China, Clariant established a factory at Daya Bay, Huizhou Province,last year for manufacturing various surface active agents. DyStar: high quality and fashion effects emphasized DyStar’s exhibits include active chemical dyestuffs and disperse chemical dyestuffs, which are environmentally-friendly with optimal fastness. These dyestuffs integrate applicability, reliability and cost-efficiency. To improve its competitive strength in the field of denim, the company stresses high quality and fashion effects in the dyeing and washing process. Caption: DyStar’s stand China’s concerns over the environment has put pressure on the textile industry. General Manager of DyStar (Shanghai) Trading Co. Ltd., Simon Collinson, says DyStar is ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
ZHEJIANG TRANSFAR CO., LTD
Show Watcher seeking comprehensive and sustainable developments through developing new products; optimizing the production process to minimize the consumption of raw materials, water, energy, dyes and dyeing chemicals; and issuing a sustainable development report according to the Global Sustainability Initiatives (GRI). Mr Collinson says that DyStar will continually develop the business in the field of supply chain. “We will catch up the changing market environment by virtue of innovation so as to provide better services for our clients, retailers and brands. In addition, we will complete the main extension projects in Asia for quickly accessing the core of textile industry.” Huntsman: help users achieve sustainable development Huntsman Textile Effects represented some of their latest dyestuff and aids products for a full range of applications from nonwovens to automobile fabrics and garment. For example, their AVITERA SE 3 reactive dyestuff contains new active groups to ensure fast, high-efficiency dyeing and fixation; AVITERA SE series dyestuff provides an ultralow-temperature, low-consumption treatment system for cellulose fiber and their blended fabrics. As for pretreatment/fluorescent whitening agent (FWA), Huntsman provides a full range of fluorescent whitening agents to cover all major fiber categories and applications and ensure outstanding reproductivity and quality. Caption: Jay Naidu (right) According to Jay Naidu, Global Marketing Director of Huntsman Textile Effects, “We are fully aware that the printing and dyeing industry is faced with increasingly greater environmental pressure. In particular, they are required to constantly reduce water and energy consumption. To meet these energy-saving and environmental requirements, we have successfully developed some new products which may reduce water and energy consumption by 50% or more. Also, these technologies can reduce the entire dyeing time and improve productivity, thus helping dye houses to further reduce energy consumption.” Whether for the global market or for the Chinese market, Jay Naidu says the company will focus on end users. “We will intensify our efforts to develop effects and technologies needed by end users,” he says. Different industrial sectors, such as nonwovens, automobile fabrics, garment and wool spinning are the targets. Based on specific needs and features of these sectors, Huntsman is to develop some special products with high technical contents to meet their needs and help them accomplish sustainable development. Matex: eliminate harmful chemicals Singapore-headquartered Matex International Limited is among the top enterprises in the international chemical dye industry and is the first foreign-invested Singapore company to actively introduce B-type bi-functional reactive dyes in the Chinese market. Caption: Dro Tan, Executive Director of Matex (2nd from left), and his team Dro Tan, Executive Director of Matex, says technology is Matex’s driver. “We carefully select raw materials used before production. We make continuous efforts to add value by improving dyeing quality, reducing production costs and production cycle, with a target to achieve higher productivity through eco-friendly solutions,” he says. The company has set up R&D, application services, quality control and material testing centers in Singapore and Shanghai. At the show, it launched two ranges of new dyestuffs, Megafix BPSN range and Megafix RE range, mainly used for very deep, rich and sharp-colored economical prints. The Megafix BPSN reactive range has a wide spectrum of shades with high color fixation rate while meeting the stringent international environmental requirements. The Megafix RE proven range of poly functional reactive can achieve low-temperature dyeing of 40 °C.With an improved fixation rate of up to 90% , this reduces dye recipe dosages. Pulcra: meet the targets of energy saving and emission reducing Pulcra Chemicals is engaged in developing innovative products to meet the needs of textile enterprises in spinning, sizing, pretreatment, dyeing, printing, softening and finishing. Chen Bangming, Marketing Manager of Pulcra Chemicals China, highlighted some of their exhibits at the exhibition. To accomplish energy-saving and emission-reducing targets, the 3-in-1 penetrating agents for pretreatment and cold pad-batch process from Turkey were introduced to the market late last year. While most penetrating agents are currently powder agents, Pulcra’s new products are liquid agents, which received favorable feedback from customers, Mr Chen says. On developing environmentally-friendly products, Mr Chen says, “Our raw materials are extracted from vegetable oil and animal oil and most of them are biodegradable. Our chemical products are (Continued on p97) ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITED
Corporate Profile German technology to stay ahead in competitive market by Gigi Shuai in Shanghai Caption: Truetzschler Textile Machinery (Shanghai) Through constant development in the past 120 years, Truetzschler has established production bases and service agents in textile centers around the world, with more than 2,000 employees. “Leveraging original German design and technical innovation to provide textile enterprises with high-quality equipment and services” has been the principle of the company, which specializes in the technologies of spinning, nonwovens and card clothing. In the competitive market of China, Truetzschler Textile Machinery (Shanghai) was set up in November 2002. The company’s production facility in Qingpu, Shanghai, has last year completed a new phase of expansion, with the space increasing from 6,000m² to 23,000m². Investing in R&D Harald Schoepp, General Manager of Truetzschler in Shanghai, said that a professional R&D team is vital for the company to remain competitive in the textile machinery market. Vigorous R&D efforts and constant innovation have contributed to the success of the company, according to Mr Schoepp. It is important to meet the ever-changing needs of customers through the most advanced technology, raw materials and production process. Caption: Harald Schoepp Truetzschler invests about 25 million euros each year in R&D. The new product R&D center in the company’s headquarters in Germany has a dedicated team comprising experts from a wide range of disciplines: construction, textiles, ventilation, electric engineering, as well as experts in software, image processing and driver technology. The company sells its products around the world through its five branch companies. To ensure consistent quality, the branch companies maintain close contact with the R&D center in Germany. Mr Schoepp stressed that all products sold by Truetzschler around the world shared the same models and configurations. “They are designed by the R&D center in the head office in Germany and share the same design, technology and quality management standard. In this way, we can provide top-grade technology for our customers and maintain our leading position in the market,” he said. A large market for high-tech enterprises In addition to having production facilities in the US, Brazil, India and China, Truetzschler runs a number of technical service centers and engages in close cooperation with more than 80 agents around the world. In Asia, China and India are among the fastest growing markets for the company’s products as the shift of the world’s spinning market to Asia continues. Currently, the labor cost as well as energy consumption in China and India are substantially going up. Some labor-intensive textile factories may leave for other countries to take advantage of the lower production cost. However, China remains a production base for a large number of high-tech textile enterprises instead of labor-intensive enterprises. On the other hand, demand for textiles is still booming. Young people, in particular, have substantial demand for garments and textiles. ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Corporate Profile Caption: TC 07 cards and auto leveller drawframe TD 03 of Truetzschler Under the influence of the Euro debt crisis, rising raw material price and labor cost, textile enterprises in the coastal areas in China experienced a slowdown late last year. The sales of Truetzschler also underwent some fluctuation. However, overall the company has performed well and exceeded the sales targets for the year. The bottleneck in customers’ capital sourcing and the fluctuation in raw material and yarn prices are the main factors responsible for the market fluctuation, according to Mr Schoepp. The Euro debt crisis has some impact on China’s textile industry but it is not significant. Since the establishment of its Shanghai branch company in 2002, Truetzschler has been competing with international and domestic textile machinery manufacturers. Mr Schoepp observed that Chinese textile enterprises today do not only focus on production input and cost reduction, but also on improving overall product quality and investment returns. Meanwhile, textile machinery manufacturing in China has witnessed constant development and has intensified R&D inputs. He regards competition as part of healthy market development, and the company will continue to promote the various advantages of its products, such as high productivity, high efficiency and low energy consumption, so as to remain in leading position. A family-owned enterprise with a long history, Truetzschler can offer the advantages of flexibility and quick response. Specifically, it can promptly identify and forecast market trends, make quick readjustment and respond to market changes. Currently, over 80% of its sales revenue comes from the spinning segment, followed by card clothing. With constant growth of the nonwovens industry, Truetzschler expects the nonwovens segment to soon become the second largest operation of the company. Truetzschler (Shanghai) recently set up a nonwoven division to meet customers’ needs in the growing market. In order to give more benefits to customers, Truetzschler is making efforts to ensure reliable operation and simple maintenance of its equipment as a way to reduce production costs. It also ensures that its machinery can save more energy and utilize the raw materials. ■ (Continued from “Industry News” p13) shortages had downsized their production capacity to merely 50%. Mr Parekh said that investors were ready to relocate their existing manufacturing setups to Bangladesh and elsewhere in the world if the present situation did not improve to facilitate businesses growth. Pakistan’s imports of textile machinery fell by 58% to US$19.39 million in March, compared to US$47.12 million in the same month of last year, showing a decline of US$27.73 million, according to Pakistan Bureau of Statistics. On a month-on-month basis, Pakistan’s imports of textile machinery dropped by 56.25% in March as compared to US$45.28 million in February, representing a slump of US$25.89 million. During the July-March period of the current fiscal year, Pakistan imported US$316.04 million worth of textile machinery as against US$357.23 million in the same period of last fiscal year, showing a fall of 11.53% or US$41.19 million. Chairman of Pakistan Apparel Forum (PAF), Muhammad Javed Bilwani, also attributed the huge decline in textile machinery imports to the energy shortage and hooliganism, saying “textile manufacturing groups in the country have witnessed decline in exports for nearly all of their product items due to political uncertainty and poor law and order.” He said the country’s manufacturing growth also declined because Karachi and Punjab, both key centers of the country’s textile exports, were badly hit either by energy shortage or by violence. Sri Lanka Sri Lankan apparel industry on upward movement Sri Lanka’s apparel industry is on an upward movement, and the country is gaining momentum as a reputed garment supplier, said John Rankin, British High Commissioner. At the Sri Lanka Apparel Sourcing Association’s 19th AGM held recently, he said, “It was impressive to learn that for the Athens Olympics, the ‘Fast Skin’ swimwear by UK-owned Speedo was manufactured in Sri Lanka. It is understood that Nike’s track and field outfits for the London Olympics will be made in Sri Lanka.” Sharing the experience from his 13-month visit in Sri Lanka, he remarked that the country’s factories are clean and modern with good working conditions for workers. He added that the industry is moving away from low-value products towards high-value niche garments by using latest high-tech fabrics, particular in sportswear and women’s underwear. “The apparel industry’s work in supporting sustainability, implementing environmentally friendly strategies and carbon-neutral manufacturing, including the world’s first carbon-neutral bra by Marks and Spencer produced here in Sri Lanka. It is delighted to see the growth in Sri Lanka’s own domestic design process, based on what their customers want,” said Mr Rankin. He stressed that Sri Lanka is also taking a regional lead in South Asia in implementing “green” measures and ethical manufacturing practices. ■ For daily news of the textile industry, please visit www.AdsaleATA.com ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Corporate Profile Eco-awareness and innovation take priority by Ngo Van Tuan Caption: Nan Yang Textile Group, Thailand Established in 1958, Nan Yang Textile Group is a textile and garment manufacturer based in Thailand. It has 18 affiliated domestic and overseas companies specializing in all parts of the textile industry ranging from spinning, knitting, dyeing, and finishing to printing and garment-making with a total work force of 14,000 people. This vertical integration development makes it the leading textile group in Thailand. The company has three spinning mills of 122,000 spindles equipped with modern spinning machines from Switzerland, Germany, Japan, and Italy, and is using the high quality cotton imported from the US and, the world’s best cotton producing countries. “Nan Yang” branded yarn (including combed yarn, semi-combed yarn, or open-end yarn in 100% cotton and blended cotton/polyester) has been achieving satisfaction from both domestic and international customers in Korea, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Germany, Spain and Italy. Producing top quality knitted fabric of various ranges from pieced-dyed, yarn-dyed to printed fabric as well as eco-friendly ones which have been supplied for both domestic and global brands with monthly capacity of 3,000 tons, Nan Yang is currently the biggest textile mill in Thailand, and a major player for textile innovation and technology in Asia. ATA: ATA Journal Mr Tuangsitthisombat: Vibul Tuangsitthisombat, President of Nan Yang Textile Group ATA: What are some of your latest product developments? Mr Tuangsitthisombat: Functionality is a mainstream for apparel. Our products are developed based on the idea of how we can innovate fabrics to enhance wearers’ lifestyle. For instance, our “Dry-Tech” fabric is uniquely engineered to optimize moisture-wicking properties that keep wearers comfortable and dry across a range of activities, while our “Syntrel” fabric is a moisture management fabric engineered for high performance activities; its ability to move moisture quickly and in great quantity without absorption makes microfiber the perfect fabric for sport and extreme work situations. Besides, our “Stretch it” is an elastane-blended fabric to increase comfort and softness, improve body-shaping, and enhance drape and shape retention. ATA: How do you differentiate your products from your competitors’? Mr Tuangsitthisombat: We differentiate ourselves by delivering product creation, and creating end to end product creation process. That’s why we develop Nan Yang Inspiration Center (NIC) in 2009 as a “one-stop-resource” service center to customers for the purpose of quick processing of samples and orders. The NIC is fully geared for innovation and product developments. It provides a total business solution through its vertically integrated supply chain aiming to completely serve the clients in their every need for product development, new cutting-edge fabrics and apparels. Caption: Nan Yang Textile Group’s spinning nill adopts advanced spinning machines ATA: Nan Yang Textile Group has done a lot in promoting sustainability in production. Could you tell us more about this? Mr Tuangsitthisombat: Environmental awareness is one of our core offerings. Our organic yarns and fabrics are certified by Control Union Certifications that we can meet with Global Organic Textile Standard; GOTS for organic cotton yarns as well as OE 100 and OE Blend standards for organic cotton fabrics. Apart from organic cotton, we also use Recycled Cotton, Recycled Polyester and Recycled CVC in our products. And not only in sourcing the ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
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Corporate Profile Caption: Vibul Tuangsitthisombat products, we are trying as much as we can to control our processes to be least harmful to environment including water treatment, water consumption and improving energy yield. Long-term sustainable strategy is part of Nan Yang’s core objective and values. This principle is the reason for the continuing improvement in our total supply chain, aimed at using more sustainable processes and running the business operations in an eco-friendly ways, with a constant eye at energy conservation and waste reduction. We have been issued certification of ISO and Oeko-Tex for our clean and healthy production process. We also explore and use sustainable textile materials and products through an ecological design approach. ‘Green-Tech’ is Nan Yang’s brand of eco-friendly product line. Key information of Nan Yang Textile Group Year of establishment 1958 Location of headquarters Bangkok, Thailand Products range Yarn, fabric, apparel and decorative products Yearly capacity 4.2 million pounds of raw yarn, and 600,000 pounds of dyed yarn 18 million pieces of garment 30,000 tons of fabric Number of employees 14,000 ATA: The competition in Asia is getting fiercer and fiercer. What is your group’s development strategy? Mr Tuangsitthisombat: Our strategy is not to compete purely on price like some manufacturers in Southeast Asia. Instead our main focus is always creating and supplying innovative products and services for our customers. We have been focusing on product development, service development, and how to enhance our strength in a low cost environment. Also, it is important for us to have offices or representatives close to customers in the main countries that we have business with such as Hong Kong and the US. For manufacturing, we have factories in Thailand, China, Laos, and look forward to expanding to other potential countries. ■ (Continued from “China Report” p74) “We will actively guide local men’s clothing industry to transform from garment production base to garment brand center, and guide men’s clothing products to transform from low and medium grade to high grade. We intend to double the quantity of textile and garment enterprises, famous garment brands and sales amount within 3-5 years so that the title of ‘Famous Men’s Clothing Town of China’ will be satisfactory. ” Secretary-General Liao described the development blueprint of the industry so. The knitted mercerized cotton industry rises with one-third output of China Since 1990s, Huizhou has become one of three major cities of manufacturing the knitted mercerized cotton. At present, the industry cluster involved in raw material supply, technical research and development, production and sale of mercerized cotton has been established. The major enterprises include Mianwang (棉王), Daxiyang (大西洋), Chuangyi (創易), Dimeng (帝盟), Aosidi (奧斯迪), Kaiya (凱雅), Zhicai (織彩), Fengshang (風尚), Hongda (宏達) and Aomei (奧美) and obtain over 70% market share in Huizhou. By 2010, there were nearly 100 enterprises of manufacturing knitted mercerized cotton, which manufactured 15 million pieces of mercerized cotton clothing and 2,000t mercerized cotton cloth. The output value was RMB 1.5 billion, reaching nearly one-third output and sale of China. The products were mainly sold to Hong Kong, Europe and Middle East. Deng Xunwen (鄧勳文), Secretary-General of Mercerized Cotton Association of Huizhou (惠州市絲光棉協會秘書長), said that nearly 90% of the mercerized cotton garments of domestic and overseas famous brands were manufactured in the manner of OEM, including Septwolves (七匹狼), SEVEN (柒牌), Crocodile, Pierre Cardin (皮爾卡丹) and etc. “Huizhou is the first choice for high-quality OEM processing of mercerized cotton garments of China.” Deng added. But in early days Huizhou had no general production standard for knitted mercerized cotton, especially the unique indicator of mercerized cotton, “mercerizing effect”, is only judged subjectively. The Quality Supervision Bureau and Knitted Mercerized Cotton Chamber of Commerce of Huizhou City (惠州市質監局和市針織絲光棉商會) jointly prepared Knitted Mercerized Cotton T – Shirt (《針織絲光棉T恤衫》聯盟標準) in 2008 and clearly determined the testing method and standard. The other indicators were higher than the requirements of the national standard GB/T22849-2009 Knitted T – Shirts. For implementing this standard, Huizhou stablished the Quality Supervision and Testing Station of Guangdong Province for Mercerized Cotton Fabrics (廣東省絲光棉織品品質監督檢驗站). Obviously, the implementation of standard and establishment of comprehensive technological testing and service platform improves the overall quality of knitted mercerized cotton products of Huizhou, especially a firm foundation is laid for Huizhou to become the leading player in the knitted mercerized cotton industry. ■ Source: Huizhou Textile and Garment Association (惠州市紡織服裝協會) ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
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Company Bulletin Clariant opens new pigment preparations plant in Tianjin, China Switzerland-based chemicals supplier Clariant announced the inauguration of its new pigment preparations production facility in Dagang, Tianjin, China to support the growing Chinese market. Caption: Clariant’s new pigment preparations plant in Tianjin city, China The new plant in Dagang in the city of Tianjin is a joint-venture between Clariant and Tianjin Bohai Chemical Industry Company with a total investment of RMB120 million. Alongside the company’s existing powder pigment plant in Hangzhou, China, the Dagang plant is aimed at serving China’s growing pigment and pigment preparations market for high quality solutions. The new facility will produce pigment preparations in liquid and solid form for applications in the coating, plastics, and printing industries, as well as for consumer products and industrial special applications. It includes 16 production lines, warehouse, laboratories and office space in a surface area of 13,000sqm. The company said that its introduction of a further production site in China will give customers access to a wider choice of products as well as improved services with a shorter lead-time for greater efficiency. “Investing in emerging markets is a key element of Clariant’s strategy and underlines our focus on extending its value proposition to growing markets. For our Business Unit Pigments this investment enhances our customer intimacy in the region and strengthens our position in the Chinese market,” commented Christian Kohlpaintner, Clariant’s Member of the Executive Committee. The new plant in Dagang will be adding to Clariant’s pigment production capabilities worldwide with 12 pigment plants and 11 preparation plants across Europe, Asia and the US. Clariant remarked that it has invested RMB200 million in China in the past five years. DyStar joins Sustainable Apparel Coalition Textile dyes and chemicals supplier DyStar recently announced in a press release that it has joined the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), a collaborative venture established in 2011 by leading apparel retailers, suppliers and manufacturers with participation of academics and NGOs. The main objective of the SAC is to develop an Apparel Index which takes a full life-cycle view of an apparel product and identifies all major social and environmental impacts along the production chain, and dyes and chemicals are a key area of interest of the organization. Dystar emphasized that it has a long history of action to reduce the environmental impact of the supply chain, and recently issued its first corporate Sustainability Report prepared according to GRI principles. It also works closely with many of the brand and retailer members of the SAC in creating seasonal color palettes through its Color Solutions International business headquartered in North Carolina, the US, and in ensuring compliance of its products with Restricted Substance List requirements through its econfidence program. “Our membership of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition signifies our commitment to working together with our partners in the industry to deliver systemic change in the way that textiles are manufactured globally,” said Harry Dobrowolski, President of the DyStar Group. Huntsman and Ramatex form partnership to help Nike achieve zero-emission commitment Malaysian textile and garment maker Ramatex and textile chemicals supplier Huntsman Textile Effects have formed a strategic partnership to help international brand Nike meet its goal of zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. “We believe the solution to the issues already exists. Alternative chemistries are available, and Ramatex is determined to become the first supplier in the world to produce fabrics and garments which are fully compliant with the commitments in the roadmap,” says Ma Wong Ching, Chairman of Ramatex, which is among the first textile manufacturers publicly committed to rise to the challenge of eliminating the discharge of hazardous chemicals during the textile supply chain. He stated that the partnership will drive the initiative and create a template for others in the industry to follow. Eric Sprunk, Nike’s Vice President of Merchandise and Product said: “We are very excited with the strategic partnership between Ramatex and Huntsman Textile Effects. This kind of collaboration will allow Nike to begin to address some of the key challenges we face in implementing the Road to Zero goals. “Using this partnership as a template for others in our supply chain gives Nike a path to real, sustainable change within the footwear and apparel industry,” he said. Nike is among the six brands that have announced their commitment to the goal of eliminating the discharge of hazardous chemicals through the joint roadmap “Towards Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals” after the international environmental organization Greenpeace International released the “Dirty Laundry” reports, which stated that residues of hazardous chemicals nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs) were found in apparels from international brands. Teijin partners with CCFA to boost China’s chemical fiber industry Japanese Teijin Ltd announced its partnership with the China Chemical Fibers Association (CCFA) to pursue business opportunities in the fields of chemical fibers and related industries in China. As introduced, the partnership, which ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
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Company Bulletin People Lectra names new software R&D director A French integrated technology solution supplier for industries using soft materials such as textiles, leather, industrial fabrics, and composite materials, Lectra recently announced the nomination of Laurent Alt as the new Director of its Software R&D department. Mr Alt, a graduate of the Ecole Normale Supérieure de Paris, began his career in 1987 at Thomson Digital Image where he created the first software for articulated characters and participated in the development of a 3D modeling package intended for industrial design. In 2009, he was CEO at HD3D, a company which develops digital content production management software, in partnership with French audiovisual leaders such as Mikros Image, Mac Guff Ligne, and Eclair Laboratoires. Caption: Laurent Alt Picanol announces the passing of Emmanuel Steverlynck Belgian textile weaving machinery maker Picanol announced that Emmanuel Steverlynck passed away on April 14 at the age of 89. Born in 1922, Mr Steverlynck was the second son of Charles Steverlynck (1888-1984), who founded Picanol in 1936. He took over the commercial management of the company and the sales of Picanol weaving machines in 1952. Under his leadership with the help of his father and his brother Bernard Steverlynck (1920-1976), the company overcame the difficulties of the early years and became one of the market leaders in textile weaving machinery. is the first time for the CCFA to partner with a foreign private company, will mainly pursue the opportunities to enhance Chinese fiber products with added-value, differentiation and greater production efficiency, develop high-performance fibers and related applications, and nurture unique businesses. It will also pursue the opportunities to develop green solutions for greater sustainability and establish a closed-loop recycling system. Teijin, which manufactures aramid fibers, carbon fibers and composites, polyester fibers, plastics, films, has reached an agreement to set up a closed-loop system for recycling polyester with Zhejiang Jiabao New Fiber Group Co Ltd. Based in Shaoxing, China’s Zhejiang province, Jiabao is a group company of Jinggong Holding Group, a prominent company involved with environmental management. “We are particularly pleased to pursue mutual growth opportunities with the CCFA and its member companies,” said Shigeo Ohyagi, President and CEO of Teijin. “We hope to apply our technologies and expertise toward solutions for energy savings and environmental preservation in the chemical fiber industry, a strategic industry in China’s 12th five-year plan,” he added. The CCFA is promoting industrial structural reforms targeted at realizing greater competitiveness through product differentiation and added value. It expresses its hope to achieve further advances in the Chinese chemical fiber industry through its new partnership with Teijin. “The collaboration between the CCFA and Teijin is a bold new initiative between the Chinese and Japanese chemical fiber industries, which have a long history of complementing each other’s strengths,” said Duan Xiaoping, Chairman of the CCFA. “I hope this strategic undertaking, which coincides with China’s 12th five-year period, will serve as a model for CCFA collaborations with other progressive global companies. Teijin offers advanced technology and valuable knowhow that are required in China’s chemical fiber industry. I believe our partnership with Teijin will pave the way for further cooperation between the chemical fiber industries of our two countries,” he added. Trützschler takes over Bastian Winder Technologies Trützschler group announced that it has taken over the product range of Bastian Winder Technologies GmbH & Co KG. “The name of Bastian represents outstanding quality and technology. In combination with the strength of the global Trützschler organization, we also offer the customer optimized service and individual consulting in new construction, as well as for retrofits and upgrades,” said Marc Wolpers, Managing Director of Trützschler in Egelsbach, Germany. Caption: Shigeo Ohyagi, President and CEO of Teijin Ltd (left), and Duan Xiaoping, CCFA’s chairman at the conference where they announce their partnership In the future, Trützschler will offer winders for film, nonwovens, paper and composites under the name of Bastian. The experts of Bastian can now evaluate exactly what is technically possible and economically convincing in combination with the expertise of Trützschler. “We are happy that the experienced Bastian employees continue to be available to our customers,” added Mr Wolpers. ■ For most updated news, please go to www.AdsaleATA.com ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
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New Products Guide Dow Corning’s new silicon-based emulsion for durable water repellency and softness The US-based provider of silicones and silicon-based technology, Dow Corning has launched DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard, a silicon-based technology emulsion to provide water repellency and softness without the use of fluorine, solvents or alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO). The new emulsion is said to provide excellent water repellency and to impart softness to most textile substrates, particularly cellulosic and blends. The company notes that the water repellency imparted is durable after 30 home laundry wash times, which is equal to that imparted by standard fluorocarbon water repellent finishing systems in the market. Joanna Giovanoli, Marketing Manager, Dow Corning Textiles, said: “With the help of Dow Corning DWR-7000 Soft Hydro Guard, brands are able to create apparel designed for wet weather. In contrast to current fluorocarbon technologies, silicon-based emulsions contain no fluorine, solvents or APEOs (alkylphenol ethoxylate). Silicones exhibit no adverse toxicological effects or evidence of bioaccumulation and have no effects on soil-living species or on crop growth.” Kornit Digital launches new Paradigm Printer Israel-headquartered solutions provider of industrial and commercial digital printing Kornit Digital has launched its new Paradigm Printer, a digital add-on solution for screen printing carousels that enables the screen printer to combine traditional screen printing methods with digital printing techniques and create innovative printing applications. Caption: Kornit’s new Paradigm Printer Sarel Ashkenazi, VP Marketing & Business Development of Kornit Digital, said, “The Paradigm is the only solution that combines the best of two worlds: Screen Printing and Digital printing, and it’s the best solution for garment decorators and screen printers that are looking to adapt into the growing needs of the fashion industry.” According to the company, the new printer is capable of handling a large variety of textile applications, variable data combinations, complicated four color processes, spot combinations and is equipped with Industrial High Volume Polaris Spectra print Heads. Kornit Paradigm can also act as a pure stand-alone digital printer for short-runs and eliminates the need for any set-up procedures with its automatic computer-to-printer process and its ability to reposition between carousel stations. Mr Ashkenazi said, “The Kornit’s Paradigm is compatible for both manual and automatic screen printing carousels and is capable of producing a variety of combined digital and screen application. Printers can now combine in one job Foil, Flock, Metallics and more, with photorealistic and multicolored digital image and use it as a digital printer for short-runs.” Teijin’s Nanofront polyester offers 400nm diameter Teijin Fibers Limited, the core company of the Teijin Group’s polyester fibers business, announced today that it has decided to commercialize a new version of its Nanofront high-strength polyester nanofiber with a diameter of 400 nanometers, or 22,500 times smaller than the cross-sectional area of a strand of hair, an allegedly unprecedented achievement for a commercial polyester fiber. The new version, which will be marketed by Teijin Fibers as a finer version of its existing 700-nanometer Nanofront nanofiber, will expand the market for the company’s versatile, high-performance nanofiber by meeting demands for even finer nanofibers in applications, such as high-performance air filters that trap especially fine dust particles while allowing increased air flow in compact, energy-efficient air conditioning systems. Nano-sized bumps on the surface of Nanofront raise frictional force and produce a surface area dozens of times greater than that of regular fiber, giving the material outstanding slip resistance. The ultra-fine fiber is also soft, stretchable, fits body contours comfortably, promotes cooling and boasts excellent absorbency and opaqueness. Nanofront is used in a wide variety of clothing and industrial applications, ranging from inner-wear, golf gloves and skin care products to abrasive cloth and filters. TenCate Geosynthetics launches woven geosynthetic TenCate Geosynthetics North America has developed TenCate Mirafi H2Ri, a patented, woven geosynthetic for soil stabilization and base course reinforcement applications when differential settlement occurs due to heaving in the subgrade soils. The woven geosynthetic is a wicking geosynthetic created from high-tenacity polypropylene filaments and patented wicking filaments formed into an innovative weave to provide superior reinforcement strength and soil interaction integrated with high soil retention and wicking capabilities. “The exciting aspect about TenCate Mirafi H2Ri is that it provides a geosynthetic solution in applications of subgrade heaving where traditionally geosynthetics have not performed well,” said Brett Odgers, Market Manager, Roadway Reinforcement at TenCate Geosynthetics North America. As introduced, TenCate Mirafi H2Ri woven geosynthetic contains special, proprietary hydrophilic and hygroscopic yarn that provides wicking action through the plane of the geosynthetic while maintaining higher tensile modulus properties than the current stabilization products. ■ For the most updated news, please go to www.AdsaleATA.com ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
Reader’s Comments Some comments received from our readers on www.AdsaleATA.com “All information provided in your magazine is very useful for people like us as manufacturer.” ~ Md. Nurul Haque on article “Automation trend fuels development of knitting technology” (Feb 2012) “I find that your presentation of textile wastewater treatment is very useful” ~ Makesh on article “Wastewater treatment methods for textile mills” (Mar 2012) “This is useful information. Thanks to ATA team.” ~ Iqbal Ahmed on article “Can carbon replace steel, and natural fibers oust glass?” (Apr 2012) “Very useful!” ~ Amjad Ali Bhuiyan on article “Automation trend fuels development of knitting technology” (Apr 2012) “The update is very useful for us. Thanks!” ~ Amanda Wilson on article “New Oeko-Tex test criteria come into force” (May 2012) “That’s a very interesting story.” ~ Willy Ng on article “Sri Lankan apparel industry on upward movement, says UK official after visit” (May 2012) Share your thoughts about ATA Journal on www.AdsaleATA.com or by emailing us: cta.ata.edit@adsale.com.hk ■ (Continued from “Show Watcher” p84) free from such substances as APEO and phosphorous. In processing, we are constantly optimizing our products to accomplish our energy-saving and emission-reducing targets.” In the next 2-3 years, Pulcra expects to enter such sectors as nonwovens and coating. “We have production facility and R&D center in China. We wish to coordinate with our head office in Germany to launch innovative products.” Mr Chen hopes to see that more factories in China can develop their own brands. “Many processing enterprises are scrambling for even the low-profit orders. This is not good,” he explains. Caption: Chen Bangming, marketing manager of Pulcra Chemicals China Tanatex: diversified products for dyeing and finishing Tanatex upheld the concept of energy conservation, consumption reduction and environmental protection and provided more diversified and differential products at China Interdye. For example, cold pad-batch dyeing can save much steam, consume less energy and has higher color fixing rate and better dyeing repeatability compared with the traditional process. The low-temperature activated bleaching process is another example. The after-finishing products, such as probiotics finishing and skin-care functional finishing, also attract attention in the market. Uncertainty of the world economy affects the dyeing industry to some extent, while the requirements on resource saving and environmental protection bring remarkable challenges to the Chinese enterprises. “Now the dyeing industry needs more efforts on technical innovation, process optimization, energy conservation and emission reduction,” says Allen Lai, Deputy General Manager and Marketing Director, Asia Pacific of Tanatex. He says Tanatex is the only textile chemicals suppliers with the full systemic route from Cradle to Cradle (C2C). For further development, the company will cooperate with manufacturers and domestic brands in developing functional finishing products. ■ ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
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Coming Event Calendar Date Event Location Organizer Tel/ Fax/ Email/ Website 2011 Jun 12-16 ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 Shanghai / China Beijing Textile Machinery International Exhibition Co., Ltd (44) 796 747 7305 / info@cematex.com / www.itmaasia.com / Jun 13-15 ANEX 2012 Seoul / Korea Asia Nonwoven Fabrics Association (ANFA) (82) 267 155 400 / enoch.jeong@ubm.com / www.anex2012.com Jun 26-28 IFAI Expo Asia 2012 Marina Bay Sands / Singapore Industrial Fabrics Association International (IFAI) (65) 6393 0227 / jasonng@mpinetwork.com / www.ifaiexpoasia.com Jun 26-28 The 13th China (Qingdao) Textile Machinery Exhibition 2012 Qingdao / China Qingdao Haiming International Exhibition Co., Ltd. (86) 532 850 11486 / fzjx@qdhaiming.com / www.qdhaiming.com Jul 3-6 Hong Kong Fashion Week for Spring/ Summer 2013 Hong Kong / China Hong Kong Trade Development Council (852) 183 0668 / exhibitions@hktdc.org / www.hkfashionweeks.hktdc.com Aug 17-20 CTG-Cambodia International Machinery Industrial Fair Phnom Penh / Cambodia Chan Chao International Co., Ltd (886) 226 596 000 / overseas@chanchao.com.tw / http://www.camboexpo.com/ Aug 28-30 Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles Shanghai / China Messe Frankfurt (Shanghai) Ltd (852) 2238 9938 / grace.lin@hongkong.messefrankfurt.com / www.messefrankfurt.com.hk Sept 6-9 2012 Guangzhou International Garment Festival and Guangzhou Fashion Week Guangzhou / China Guangzhou Yijia Exhibition Co., Ltd (86) 020 833 94270 / www.gzgigf.com Sept 14-16 2012 International Apparel Fabric Accessories & Yarns Fujian / China Guangzhou RHF Exhibition Co., Ltd (86) 20 3866 7261 / ruihongfair@163.com / www.cn-jit.com Sept 19-20 JIAM 2012 - Japan International Apparel Machinery Trade Show Osaka / Japan Japan Sewing Machinery Manufacturers Association (JASMA) (81 6) 661 21666 / jiam2012@fair.or.jp / www.jiam2012.com Oct 11-14 IGATEX Pakistan 2012 Lahore / Pakistan FAKT Exhibitions Pvt. Ltd (92) 213 581 063739 / info@fakt.com.pk / www.igatex.pk Oct 22-24 CINTE Techtextil China Shanghai / China Messe Frankfurt (Shanghai) Ltd (852) 223 899 38 / grace.lin@hongkong.messefrankfurt.com / www.messefrankfurt.com.hk Oct 22-25 Intertextile Shangahi Apparel Fabrics Shanghai / China Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd (852) 2238 9967 / wilmet.shea@hongkong.messefrankfurt.com / www.messefrankfurt.com.hk Nov 8-10 CANTON TEX - The 12th Canton International Textile Machinery Exhibition Guangzhou / China Guangdong Zhenwei Guozhan Exhibition Co., Ltd (86) 020-84120430 / fabric@zhenweiexpo.com / www.cantonfabric.com.cn Nov 21-24 2012 VTG Saigon-The 11th Vietnam Int’l Textile & Garment Exhibition Ho Chi Minh City / Vietnam Chan Chao International Co., Ltd (886) 226 596 000 / textile@chanchao.com.tw / www.vtgvietnam.com Nov 27-30 The 13th China (Yiwu) International Exhibition on Hosiery, Knitting, Dyeing & Finishing Machinery Yiwu / China Adsale Exhibition Services Ltd. (852) 2516 3354 / textile@adsale.com.hk / www.yiwutex.com Dec 2-7 India ITME 2012 - India International Textile Machinery Exhibition Mumbai / India The India International Textile Machinery Exhibitions Society (91) 222 202 0032 / itme@india-itme.com / www.india-itme.com * ATA Journal will be distributed at booth / media stand * These events are accurate to the best of our knowledge and are subject to change without prior notice. Event organizers are welcome to email information of their coming events to The Editor, ATA Journal cta.ata.edit@adsale.com.hk ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
ADVERTISERS' INDEX Enquiry Advertiser Page 104 A. MONFORTS TEXTILMASCHINEN GMBH & CO. KG 5 118 ACIMIT SERVIZI SRL 35 138 ADSALE EXHIBITION SERVICES LTD 89, 95 113 ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITED 24 - 25, 73, 85, 93 105 AMANN ASIA LTD 7 108 BENNINGER AG 13 112 CLARIANT AG 23 122 COTTON INCORPORATED 43 133 DORNIER MACHINERY (SHANGHAI) CO., LTD 71 128 DOW CORNING CORPORATION - XIAMETER ® 59 139 FAKT EXHIBITIONS PVT. LTD - IGATEX PAKISTAN 2012 91 119 GETRIEBEBAU NORD GMBH & CO.KG 37 107 GROZ-BECKERT KG 11 106 H. STOLL GMBH & CO 9 141 HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS BACK COVER 103 KAR MING INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIES CO., LTD 2ND INSIDE FRONT COVER 114 KARL MAYER MASCHINENFABRIK GMBH 27 109 KERN-LIEBERS 15 130 KORNIT DIGITAL LTD 63 102 LOEPFE BROTHERS LTD INSIDE FRONT COVER 101 OERLIKON TEXTILE GMBH & CO.KG FRONT COVER 125 PREMIUM TEXTILE COMPONENTS GROUP 49 116 ROSINK GMBH & CO. MASCHINENFABRIK 31 124 SAN DA CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE 47 126 SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD 53 120 SSM SCHARER SCHWEITER METTLER AG 39 117 STAUBLI INTERNATIONAL AG 33 111 STORK PRINTS B.V. ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING 21 110 SWISSMEM 17, 19 132 TAI HO SHING KNITTING MACHINERY CO., LTD 67 131 TAINING MACHINE INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD 65 127 TESTEX SWISS TEXTILE-TESTING LTD 55 134 THE HONG KONG RESEARCH INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL (HKRITA) 75 121 THIES GMBH & CO.KG 41 123 THREE CIRCLES KNITTING NEEDLES INDUSTRY CO., LTD 45 115 TRUTZSCHLER GMBH + CO. KG TEXTILMASCHINENFABRIK 29 129 UCMTF - FRENCH ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS 61 140 VIGORS TEXTILE CHEMICAL (JIANGMEN) CO., LTD INSIDE BACK COVER 135 X-RITE ASIA PACIFIC LIMITED 79 136 YEONG GUAN HAUR INDUSTRIAL LTD 81 137 ZHEJIANG TRANSFAR CO., LTD 83 ATA JOURNAL•JUN/JUL 2012 www.AdsaleATA.com eBook:www.AdsaleATA.com/eBook
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A. MONFORTS TEXTILMASCHINEN GMBH & CO. KG
  www.monforts.com
ACIMIT SERVIZI SRL
  www.acimit.it
ADSALE EXHIBITION SERVICES LTD
  www.adsale.com.hk
ADSALE PUBLISHING LIMITED
  www.adsale.com.hk
AMANN ASIA LTD
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BENNINGER AG
  www.benningergroup.com
CLARIANT AG
  www.textiles.clariant.com
COTTON INCORPORATED
  cottontoday.cottoninc.com
DORNIER MACHINERY (SHANGHAI) CO., LTD
  www.lindauerdornier.com
DOW CORNING CORPORATION - XIAMETER ®
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FAKT EXHIBITIONS PVT. LTD - IGATEX PAKISTAN 2012
  www.igatex.pk
GETRIEBEBAU NORD GMBH & CO.KG
  www.nord.com
GROZ-BECKERT KG
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H. STOLL GMBH & CO
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HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECTS
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KAR MING INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIES CO., LTD
  www.mesdan.it
KARL MAYER MASCHINENFABRIK GMBH
  www.karlmayer.com
KERN-LIEBERS
  www.kern-liebers-textile.com
KORNIT DIGITAL LTD
  www.kornit-digital.com
LOEPFE BROTHERS LTD
  www.loepfe.com
OERLIKON TEXTILE GMBH & CO.KG
  www.e-save.oerlikontextile.com
PREMIUM TEXTILE COMPONENTS GROUP
  www.premium-textile-components.com
ROSINK GMBH & CO. MASCHINENFABRIK
  www.rosink.com
SAN DA CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
  www.sanda-knit.com
SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD
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SSM SCHARER SCHWEITER METTLER AG
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STAUBLI INTERNATIONAL AG
  www.staubli.com/textile
STORK PRINTS B.V. ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING
  www.spgprints.com/sphene
SWISSMEM
  www.factor-plus.ch
TAI HO SHING KNITTING MACHINERY CO., LTD
  www.ths.tw
TAINING MACHINE INDUSTRIAL CO., LTD
  www.taining.tw
TESTEX SWISS TEXTILE-TESTING LTD
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THE HONG KONG RESEARCH INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL (HKRITA)
  www.hkrita.com
THIES GMBH & CO.KG
  www.thiestextilmaschinen.de
THREE CIRCLES KNITTING NEEDLES INDUSTRY CO., LTD
TRUTZSCHLER GMBH + CO. KG TEXTILMASCHINENFABRIK
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UCMTF - FRENCH ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE MACHINERY MANUFACTURERS
  www.ucmtf.com
VIGORS TEXTILE CHEMICAL (JIANGMEN) CO., LTD
  www.vigors.com.cn
X-RITE ASIA PACIFIC LIMITED
  pantone.com/newcolors
YEONG GUAN HAUR INDUSTRIAL LTD
  www.yghltd.com.tw
ZHEJIANG TRANSFAR CO., LTD
  www.transfarchem.com
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